Hey my fellow nitro brother, I definitely understand your frustration! Love Kyosho and own several of their kits but with the GT2 platform, you're paying for the body and that's a sad fact. These kits should really cost no more than $450-$490. Yes, it's true, Kyosho uses phillips screws uses on practically all their kits. I own the nitro Demon body version and this is my view for anyone considering: -The stock steering and throttle servos are the same, they pretty much suck. Replace both of them with the Savox 1258 servos and run them on a life pack. You get excellent speed for throttle and good torque for your brakes. The same applies to steering, at .08 servo speed, that will provide nice crisp, fast movement and since this is an road car, you don't need 450oz-in of torque unless you are club racing. In that case, get a fast and high torque servo. These are excellent budget servos though they are noisey. -The front dog bones shouldn't be there, they cause nothing but issues. Get front universals, the part number is IF125. Here is a trick though, the Kyosho Neo 2.0 uses the same front universals so you can try a find a better deal on those from an ebay chop shop though the price is generally the same depending on stock. There are times, usually the winter in the US, where Kyosho parts seem to run out and prices get jacked up. -I upgraded to the aluminum front shock and rear towers BUT I don't think that's a must. -Tires are for break in, after that they will go bald in no time since they are crap. They don't even grip that well anyway. Plan on buying a set very soon. -For $600 you DON'T get a front sway bar. I'd recommend buying one (part number IFW104) as it will improve road handling. -Stock engine and pipe are actually excellent for an RTR. I'd say, run the engine to the ground and just enjoy it. You can always upgrade to a more premium pipe if desired but it's not required. I have a modded engine in my GT2 and grip is a damn "Challenge." -The front and rear diffs use small course thread screws to hold the diff cup to the ring gear. Problem is, they back off and your diff oils disappear. Buy some M3x12mm and the problem is gone, some guys also use M3x10mm. You can get a 100 screw pack from China for under $4. This tip also applies to the Mad Force, Mad Crusher and FOXX platforms. They all use the same diffs. -A bump/starter box is the only way to go on any nitro kit, HOWEVER, the Kyosho KE line of engines don't have a factory pull start eliminator backplate nor a modded crank. You can still use a bump box with the KE25 engine even if you rock a pull start you just won't get all the true benefits of losing the pull start/one way bearing. Once you go bump box, you won't go back to pull start. -Try 50k diff oil in the front and 10k oil in the rear. The car will tend to have more front pull especially out of corners. Diff tuning is subjective and highly dependent the type of driving one will actually be doing. -Finally, I'd recommend trying to find a deal on a used GT2. They are fun road cars but box stock, they are expensive for what you actually get and the money you need to put in. I haven't even dicussed the shock options or the lack of aluminum front/rear chassis brace. It's a shame Kyosho doesn't care to address the issues this car has or the lack of factory upgrades. It's such a fun car to drive and the bodies look incredible. I don't regret buying my GT2, it's a fun street basher and the huge body gets tons of attention. I would only suggest, once again, find a well kept used one.
I really wanted the Audi R8 body but all I could find is the AMG. Yes the kit is a race spec and comes with aluminum shocks, hex hardware, almost all the upgrades you would want. I have been looking for the Shocks for the GT3 but for some reason No One has Kyosho parts right now. Why Kyosho cheaps out with the screws using Phillips head screws instead of Hex is beyond me. The shocks as well the FW06 has aluminum shocks and it's under $400, yes it's a 10th scale but really come on Kyosho. I picked up the front and rear sway bars, and the front universals for about $80, hopefully more parts come in country soon cause it's slim pickings out there
Hey my fellow nitro brother, I definitely understand your frustration! Love Kyosho and own several of their kits but with the GT2 platform, you're paying for the body and that's a sad fact. These kits should really cost no more than $450-$490. Yes, it's true, Kyosho uses phillips screws uses on practically all their kits.
I own the nitro Demon body version and this is my view for anyone considering:
-The stock steering and throttle servos are the same, they pretty much suck. Replace both of them with the Savox 1258 servos and run them on a life pack. You get excellent speed for throttle and good torque for your brakes. The same applies to steering, at .08 servo speed, that will provide nice crisp, fast movement and since this is an road car, you don't need 450oz-in of torque unless you are club racing. In that case, get a fast and high torque servo. These are excellent budget servos though they are noisey.
-The front dog bones shouldn't be there, they cause nothing but issues. Get front universals, the part number is IF125. Here is a trick though, the Kyosho Neo 2.0 uses the same front universals so you can try a find a better deal on those from an ebay chop shop though the price is generally the same depending on stock. There are times, usually the winter in the US, where Kyosho parts seem to run out and prices get jacked up.
-I upgraded to the aluminum front shock and rear towers BUT I don't think that's a must.
-Tires are for break in, after that they will go bald in no time since they are crap. They don't even grip that well anyway. Plan on buying a set very soon.
-For $600 you DON'T get a front sway bar. I'd recommend buying one (part number IFW104) as it will improve road handling.
-Stock engine and pipe are actually excellent for an RTR. I'd say, run the engine to the ground and just enjoy it. You can always upgrade to a more premium pipe if desired but it's not required. I have a modded engine in my GT2 and grip is a damn "Challenge."
-The front and rear diffs use small course thread screws to hold the diff cup to the ring gear. Problem is, they back off and your diff oils disappear. Buy some M3x12mm and the problem is gone, some guys also use M3x10mm. You can get a 100 screw pack from China for under $4. This tip also applies to the Mad Force, Mad Crusher and FOXX platforms. They all use the same diffs.
-A bump/starter box is the only way to go on any nitro kit, HOWEVER, the Kyosho KE line of engines don't have a factory pull start eliminator backplate nor a modded crank. You can still use a bump box with the KE25 engine even if you rock a pull start you just won't get all the true benefits of losing the pull start/one way bearing. Once you go bump box, you won't go back to pull start.
-Try 50k diff oil in the front and 10k oil in the rear. The car will tend to have more front pull especially out of corners. Diff tuning is subjective and highly dependent the type of driving one will actually be doing.
-Finally, I'd recommend trying to find a deal on a used GT2. They are fun road cars but box stock, they are expensive for what you actually get and the money you need to put in. I haven't even dicussed the shock options or the lack of aluminum front/rear chassis brace. It's a shame Kyosho doesn't care to address the issues this car has or the lack of factory upgrades. It's such a fun car to drive and the bodies look incredible.
I don't regret buying my GT2, it's a fun street basher and the huge body gets tons of attention. I would only suggest, once again, find a well kept used one.
Thanks for keeping it real and for the review man!
I just got my Kyosho. Fw06 same issue with the wheels. I’m replacing everything. Thanks for the video.
I really wanted the Audi R8 body but all I could find is the AMG. Yes the kit is a race spec and comes with aluminum shocks, hex hardware, almost all the upgrades you would want. I have been looking for the Shocks for the GT3 but for some reason No One has Kyosho parts right now. Why Kyosho cheaps out with the screws using Phillips head screws instead of Hex is beyond me. The shocks as well the FW06 has aluminum shocks and it's under $400, yes it's a 10th scale but really come on Kyosho. I picked up the front and rear sway bars, and the front universals for about $80, hopefully more parts come in country soon cause it's slim pickings out there
dang that sucks I have the same gt2 and I never had that problem with mine
update bro??
This is good to know, I was wondering if to get it but I think I will go with the Arrma infraction
Do you think the GT2 is worth it in terms of aftermarket/parts support and also durability?? What is the average runtime??
8 to 10 minutes with a good tune
Have u had and second gear issues. I read alot about it. But it's all back in 2009. I dont know of the ever updated it. Are the plastic or metal
I have no gear issues
No
I’m about to put my video in today.
Bobby is that you
❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊. ไฟแอดพ์. ?
What screws did u change to?
It’s a RTR usually not so great should have went with a build your own kit parts are better . Good review won’t be buying it lol
Are the Suspension arms the same as the nitro buggy?
No warranty?