Just an FYI for anyone with a 2nd gen Titan the caliper bolts now are 17mm and the bracket is 18mm which is an oddball size not usually found in a normal metric set. I was lucky to find a 12pt 18mm in a Kobalt mechanic set i have but none of my impact rated or my chrome deep well set had it.. goes from 17 to 19mm.. i wish Nissan would have at least made the damn caliper bracket bolts 19mm which is a common size in most metric socket sets..
If you have sticking calipers, it is because you did not check or service the caliper slide pins. If you do not pay attention to these pins, the caliper can stick and cause you all sorts of issues. Make sure to remove , clean, and re-lube the slider pins!
You are lucky! I went to do my rears and had to replace both calipers, since they were sticking. The issue with your rear passenger tire is the axle seal leaking grease, since the engineers didn't put in a valve to relieve the pressure in the rear. Check your speed sensor on that tire frequently. If that sensor goes, it'll affect your ABS, VDC, and towing. It's a simple fix, but it's really frustrating.
I did my brakes all by myself back in 2019, cost me $100. Now I need to do brakes and rotors. Hopefully I can get the rotors off. I don't feel like spending over $1000
That squeaker plate you mentioned. What exactly does it sound like? I’m having an off grinding noise during hard braking sometimes but the pads and rotors don’t look super worn down. Trying to eliminate possibilities. Thanks for the video!!
You probably know by now, but it's just the little metal tab that extends from the edge of the backing plate toward the shoe side. On a new pad, it doesn't stick out far enough to make contact with the rotor, but as they wear, it gets close enough to eventually make non-hazardous contact and give a noticeable squeaky metal-to-metal sound.
Interesting. You didn't need rotors, or pads. Rust happens, doesn't mean the rotors or pads are done. You could see there was plenty of life left mostly in the pads, but also the rotors were fine still. What a waste of money and time.
First brake job and don’t have to be a master tech with your well layed out instructional vid. Pulled it off and saved $600. Thanks!
7:43
Just an FYI for anyone with a 2nd gen Titan the caliper bolts now are 17mm and the bracket is 18mm which is an oddball size not usually found in a normal metric set.
I was lucky to find a 12pt 18mm in a Kobalt mechanic set i have but none of my impact rated or my chrome deep well set had it.. goes from 17 to 19mm.. i wish Nissan would have at least made the damn caliper bracket bolts 19mm which is a common size in most metric socket sets..
If you have sticking calipers, it is because you did not check or service the caliper slide pins.
If you do not pay attention to these pins, the caliper can stick and cause you all sorts of issues. Make sure to remove , clean, and re-lube the slider pins!
I got quoted $1300 for all 4 brakes and rotors. Only the rear needed to be replaced and I will be doing it tomorrow. Thanks for the walkthrough!
Happy wrenching!
Way to tease us about the new project! Cheers Biff! 👊🏼🤓
You are lucky! I went to do my rears and had to replace both calipers, since they were sticking. The issue with your rear passenger tire is the axle seal leaking grease, since the engineers didn't put in a valve to relieve the pressure in the rear. Check your speed sensor on that tire frequently. If that sensor goes, it'll affect your ABS, VDC, and towing. It's a simple fix, but it's really frustrating.
Hey, I’ll take lucky over good any day! 😂
18:47 that spring clip was on top when you disassembled at 14:24
I did my brakes all by myself back in 2019, cost me $100. Now I need to do brakes and rotors. Hopefully I can get the rotors off. I don't feel like spending over $1000
Good job
Thank you help out a lot
That squeaker plate you mentioned. What exactly does it sound like? I’m having an off grinding noise during hard braking sometimes but the pads and rotors don’t look super worn down. Trying to eliminate possibilities. Thanks for the video!!
You probably know by now, but it's just the little metal tab that extends from the edge of the backing plate toward the shoe side. On a new pad, it doesn't stick out far enough to make contact with the rotor, but as they wear, it gets close enough to eventually make non-hazardous contact and give a noticeable squeaky metal-to-metal sound.
When you pump the breaks do you do it with the cap on or with the cap loose?
I loosen it so it can breathe but keep the cap on so it doesn’t squirt out
Hey "Biff"! I'll go by Polo. I am getting ready to replace my pads/rotors on my Titan...can't believe I found you on UA-cam. Nice Ring, by the way!!
YGBFSM!! What’s up Polo!!??
@@FearlessMods Dude!! Hope all is well. I followed you in IG so you can DM me there and we can get in touch! Hilarious!! True Blue
You better be Sub’d now!!
I think there is a bleeder valve on the calipers that you loosen and then pump the brakes to remove any air in the line.
Didn’t get the new hardware with the pads. Major bummer.
You put the rear pads in wrong. The large spring is supposed to go on the top and act as retention. So you put the wrong pads on each side.
The nut holding the rotor- what is the torc pressure? The nut size?
God bless
Sorry I didn’t reply. Don’t recall the size, and torque is just snugged down. The wheel seats against it so it won’t back out.
Why do you compress first?
Man you favor Bret farve
TransAm in American Indian language means: You should have bought a Camero, it is lighter and easier to work on. lol just joking.
Interesting. You didn't need rotors, or pads. Rust happens, doesn't mean the rotors or pads are done. You could see there was plenty of life left mostly in the pads, but also the rotors were fine still. What a waste of money and time.
Those rotors were grooved and pitted and most likely beyond being cut.