My initial reaction would be that high "static" pressure inside the air handler would tend to drive condensate *out* of it. Brian then proceeds to explain that we're talking about a different type of air handler where the "A" coil sits not upon the blower but underneath it, which now makes sense.
Plumbers are a problem for condensate traps. They like to install the vent on the fan coil side when connecting to a sanitary waste, negating the trap. They also like to glue solid.
It can get really confusing. I’ve seen Trane Climate changers suggest in the installers Manuel to not have a vent after the trap even if your drain is on the negative side of the system. I like to install in clean out , cap it, no glue, and a vent after the trap if on the return side of the system. Always follow the manufacturers specifications and you’re on the right path.
Homie says there's no correlation to the inches vs. the negative pressure. The drain literally has the same anatomy of a slack manometer. You could literally use it to measure pressure, in inches of water column.
If the ez trap is 1” deep than that will cover you up to an entire inch of negative return static. You can’t be running that high of static just on the return. I think your problem is not the trap
Always enjoy your videos very much appreciated👌
You have a captivating way of presenting information.
My initial reaction would be that high "static" pressure inside the air handler would tend to drive condensate *out* of it.
Brian then proceeds to explain that we're talking about a different type of air handler where the "A" coil sits not upon the blower but underneath it, which now makes sense.
Plumbers are a problem for condensate traps. They like to install the vent on the fan coil side when connecting to a sanitary waste, negating the trap.
They also like to glue solid.
I would check and see if those air handler are level , and it they're , I would slope them forward slightly .
It can get really confusing. I’ve seen Trane Climate changers suggest in the installers Manuel to not have a vent after the trap even if your drain is on the negative side of the system. I like to install in clean out , cap it, no glue, and a vent after the trap if on the return side of the system. Always follow the manufacturers specifications and you’re on the right path.
Homie says there's no correlation to the inches vs. the negative pressure.
The drain literally has the same anatomy of a slack manometer. You could literally use it to measure pressure, in inches of water column.
If the ez trap is 1” deep than that will cover you up to an entire inch of negative return static. You can’t be running that high of static just on the return. I think your problem is not the trap
HI Joe!
英语太差了😢