DIY Low Profile Vice
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- To make my new fixture Plate complete I am adding a DIY Low Profile Vise. I have used the one from SMW and really like it ,so naturally, I will lean my design towards John's awesome product.
The material for the vise is 7075 Aluminum, steel would be better but that is too much machining for my spindle.
In this episode I am making the fixed side of the vise and I am still contemplating if I should make the top plate of the movable side in steel. Or using a steel insert where the flat head screw for tightening the vise is going. Once episode two is uploaded you will see a project outline on my webpage.
Have fun ...
Sooo keen for part 2. Been enjoying discovering your videos this week.
Getting the video edited for part 2 is flowing like molasses 😆 took way too long but almost complete. Glad you like my contend.
@@JBWorx just watched part two, thanks so much for putting it out!
I am very glad that you enjoyed watching it.
Looks good! Looking forward to seeing the next half and the updates you mentioned. Oh- and I am totally going to use your shoulder bolt idea.
Thank you Joel !
man thanks for all the insights and knowledge you been passing to us! i've been following you for a while now and you really helped me with my cnc!
Thank you so much for this feedback Breno ! Comments like this make it all worth it.
Very nicely done! I also have a set of the SMW vices with their fixture plate and planning on making a few more myself. Really like the changes you made to the original design!.
Thank you! Yes sometimes it’s good to have a second one for longer parts.
Nice work! I'll be heading down this road soon. Still working on my fixture plate. After doing some test holes I came to the conclusion that I really am going to need some sort of chip evacuation to make it through all the holes without gumming up the endmill and welding a wad of chips to it. Picked up a 26 gal. air compressor the other day and the airblast parts should arrive tomorrow. Once I get that all squared away the plan is to make some low profile SMW style vises.
Nice 👍 sounds like you are moving right along. Use a single flute endmill for deeper holes that helps a lot as well
You do great work!! Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much John !
Enjoying your videos. Having a bit of a binge of them recently. Very well shot and put together. Also the vice looks like a really nice build. I hope to make something similar when im a bit more confident with my machine. I think first I need to sort out a decent build plate though.
Thank you! I think there are steps of improvements that I went through. And I still can think of several more today. Best is to think what is the most useful improvement the way you use or like to use your machine. For me it was to accurately machine aluminum and so I started the journey of making all the necessary bits and pieces.
Looking forward to seeing the next video on the moveable jaw
It’s in the worx! I am traveling at the moment but at the next stop with good internet connection I will upload it.
I also need to do this... Great job 👌🏻
Thank you, I hope the movable side will work out as well.
I'm sure it will!
Keep up the good quality work 👍🏼
Thx !
can't wait for the plans and moveable jaws side
Editing the video at the moment.
@@JBWorx ein träumchen
Almost right “Ein Traum” is probably what you mean.
Great channel - subscribed!
Excellent thx !!!
Nice!
Thx
Good job as always! Just one correction regarding the SMW vises, they use the tapered screws to force the top plate against the shoulder of the fixed end. They do not use the tapered screws as a locating feature. Their design is not overdetermined (screws don't bottom). I'm sorry to say this but their design is actually better since they are using a taper to force the top plate against the shoulder as opposed to a socket cap screw that just rely on friction. Both designs should work ok when an object is clamped, but their design is superior when machining soft jaws. Otherwise, your content and designs are amazing!
My review is based on this video from SMW: ua-cam.com/video/4_kYYKfqaDg/v-deo.html (I'm providing the link at second 63 where they talk about this)
Thanks for u you our feedback … well appreciated
13:20 but you also can make your own washers out of thin brass shim stock. because all you need is to protect aluminium from friction damage so thin shim is OK.
Yes that is totally possible, no need for a thick washer here for load distribution just so the screw head will not eat into / wear the aluminum.
What kind of glue are you using for the tape workholding? I've seen people use superglue for that but you seem to use a black glue?
Also, is that a block of POM? Just curious
Yes it’s a POM (Delrin) Plate. It works really well as the tape sticks to it better than to other types of plastic. The black glue is made by Starbond it’s the medium viscosity CA (super glue). It’s visually good for filming and I really like the extended shelf life this stuff has.
Nice video. I wonder if the music will increase views, ha ha. If so, let me know, and I'll need to figure out music for my videos. What type of roundness numbers are you getting for a helical bore cycle? If you put an indicator in the spindle over the hole and sweep it, what is your TIR? Does the indicator pick up a discreet edge where the axes switch directions?
Probably not … the music I mean. Too many different tastes it’s like trying to give everyone a car in the same color … I never finish using a helical bore cycle there is always a clean up cut with low step over in the end. You can see the endmill will enter the hole one more time for a clean up cut. However I am concerned about a tapered hole shape using a single flute. Hence the test with the roughing tool this time. I will have to test the roundness figure but the tolerance to the shoulder bolt is 0.03mm and it fits. Good luck on you channel Nick.
Love the shoulder bolt idea. But it only works on a plate with holes that are both threaded and doweled, no? I assume plates with separate (un-threaded) dowel holes, the design will not work?
Yes that is correct, if the plate has dowel holes and threaded holes separately the vice will need the locating and the fastening features separate. Pressing in 2 dowels in the lower plate would be necessary. There are also diamond locating pins available that can be pressed in. Many options really, it depends what one already has on hand
Wont be much longer until I make a set of these as my machine is now up and running. But quick question, bearing in mind, I have never used this type of vise: Couldn't you make the fixed side from one piece of billet? Is there a practical reason it is in two parts except for just sticking with the same stock and thickness as you'd need for the moving side parts?
I figured it out. The original design reasoning is to be able to swap the top plates for soft jaws and also to turn them around and use the backsides with normal parallels.
You are spot on- make the vice you will like it
@@JBWorx Thanks Jorg:).
I think the first set will be 7075 and then perhaps steel later on.
The aluminum version works really good as well.
Hi there. Not sure if I understand the reasoning with using the cap screws to allow the top plate to move forward and back. Are the holes on the to plate slightly oversized to allow this? Cheers.
I like for the top plate to rest against the back so it will not move and is aligned. Yes the holes are dimensioned per standard ISO through hole.
Any reason why the stationary jaw can't be a single piece?
A single piece will work just fine if you use it in the way I showed however you can make also soft jaws for the vice. But these could also be a single piece as long as you don’t mind using more material to make them.
Hi. Just want to make one like this. Can you tell me base height and jaw plate height. Is 12mm efficient for both ?
They are both 13mm base height. However the fixed side has the ledge in the back and is made from 16mm stock. The top plate is 14mm.
Thanks for another great video. You are sooo close to 1k subscribers. I have 4 other profiles I'm going to go and subscribe on to give you a little boost. I'm willing to bet your machine can handle mild steel. It isn't that much harder than aluminum, and you can just take lighter cuts. My setup is very similar to yours and I have managed mild steel. Just make sure your feeds and speeds are correct.
Thank you !! Yes I might try a high feed endmill it is designed for shallow cuts and faster feed rates.
@@JBWorx I've been using a 6mm AliExpress carbide endmill at 18k rpm, 350mm/min feed rate, .1mm doc on cold rolled steel with great success. On a home built gantry mill/router. Could likely go depper/faster feed but no sense hurting tools or machine.
I don’t have a good tool for steel at the moment. I have several 4mm 4 flute end mills that I received by accident and the vendor said keep ‘em and I send the correct order right away. So these were free … I guess I can make some test cuts. 18k rpm is the highest torque for the spindle, but I think it could push this small a tool at a lower rpm. I also have some hot rolled steel on hand … cold rolled often turns into a pretzel if you only machine one side. Hot rolled on the other hand likes to eat your tool. Hmm 🤔
For a 4mm 4 flute, in 1018 cold rolled, with a cut width of 0.2mm and a depth of 2-4mm, your RPM should be 18000 and your feedrate should be 720mm/min.
This according to GWizard and assumes 0.01mm/tooth, or an adjusted chipload of 0.0229mm/tooth. Recommended is 0.016 to 0.031mm/tooth for steel.
That looks reasonable I might get to a test tomorrow
What size endmill and what brand endmill are you using?
This project uses several bits but the one you see in the beginning is the Datron 8mm rougher. I can really recommend that tool
Thx for sharing. Just curious, what Brand, Type tape are you using to hold material down? Thx
It is the painters tape for rough surfaces. The orange and the green 3M tapes work well. I have an Amazon link in the video for work holding.
Just curious, why is that two separate pieces? What is the benefit of being able to remove the top plate and why have it overhang and lose some rigidity?
The top plate can be turned around to use as a solid jaw. You can also design a jaw for your specific part application. The overhang resulted for me from a “V” shaped jaw where I used the lower plate as the part rest (holding a round part) You could make the fixed side one solid piece if you always like to use the part rest. The loss in rigidity is mainly the channel for the Mitee-Bite… and that it is made from aluminum.
If I can ask please. What is your spindle speed? and are you blowing just air or is there a fine oil spray as well?
On the 6-8mm tool about 16,000 rpm for clearing and 18,000 for the clean up cut. I use alcohol for machining aluminum this much said please understand all requests and risks before you use it for cooling.
great colleague. I congratulate you. can you share the link of the glue and medicine that I put on the floor? Thank you .
Yes sure, really any super glue will work I like Gorilla glue and Starbond in medium viscosity. More important is the tape you can use blue painters tape or I like the orange version with extra adhesion. I buy a good brand name like 3M / Scotch.
Nice work! I just have a question where you bought the mitee bite vice clamps? The one I found is all imperial. I live in Europe and prefer metric.
Thank you! Yes mine are metric too. I got them from MSC it’s a vendor here in the US. They are now also available here on Amazon but I don’t know where you would get them in your country. eBay international maybe ?
@@JBWorx thank you for your response. Do you have a part number or model name. That way it is easier for me to search. Best regards, Andreas
Hi Andreas, you can download a CAD drawing on the Miteebite website. Look for talon grip and part 33050 or 33020.
@@JBWorx Thank you for the part numbers. I found them. Keep up the awesome work!
I will try 😀
Good job!
I made the same ones some time ago, as well out of 7075, but 125mm wide.
I used 7991 bolts for the fixed jaw however. With a slight offset of the thread location in the base plate towards the rear. This way the bolts always push the fixed jaw against the shoulder. Basically the same principle as on the loose jaw...
Where do you buy the shoulder bolts? They look interesting.
I got mine from McMaster because I wanted them fast. But eBay will do as well.
@@JBWorx I totally forgot that you are currently in US... Somehow I hoped for a mainland Europe source...😏
Actually they are way cheaper on eBay in Germany than I can buy them in the US. Probably more common there.
what endmills are you using ? surface finish looks almost like from datron endmills
You are correct !! Das sind tatsächlich Fraeser von Datron
What hardware are you using for the vice bolts and the fixture bolts? Is there an online supplier?
Hi Austin, because this is a metric version all hardware is metric. I use McMaster Carr because of the selection and you can also download a file for the bolt into your CAD. The vice uses M10 and M5 for the Mitee Bite. The locating pins in the table itself I machined myself. Here a video for that
ua-cam.com/video/h7MFHnyO938/v-deo.html
black fluid? is that glue ?
Yes, it’s super glue also called CA
@@JBWorx Does it leave marks that are difficult to remove? how do you clean it?
Usually I use tape on the part and tape on the table then the glue goes in-between. So all you need to do is pull off the tape.
The toolling marks on the side look like they are there beacuse you used mutiple depths on a out of trammed machine . There looks to be plenty of flute length to do a full finishing pass. In fact with that small of a part eveything should be done at one depth, unless plunging, even if you have to use better workholding. I use onsrud single flute bits on my router and clear material faster than my 1100 does on the same 1/4 inch bit. Routers IMO are the best at cutting Al.
Yes I also think a cnc router is an excellent tool to cut aluminum. You are correct my cuts are often conservative and most feed rates I post can easily be doubled. However there was a full depth finishing pass and no it’s not the spindle tram but the roughing end-mill I am using. It makes a tiny line between 2 of the teeth - I am ok with that on most applications as it is a roughing tool and makes nice small chips that can easily be picked up using a vacuum. The tool is made by Datron. Onsrud is good for everything wood / plastics but the Datron stuff is awesome for Al, give the 8mm single flute a run, it’s a nice stiff tool that is impossible to clog. Thanks for your comment !
Hey ! love your videos and have 2 questions right from begining :) actually 3 :) Are you located in Germany or US ? What kind of glue are you using ? And where can I get that nice roller for tape ? :D Thanks ! I am just building my own vise too, I am using small MGN9 linear rail for jaw in mine
oh another question how happy are you with this crosscut datron tool ? I am struggling with long chips a lot..In datron demo video I was not really able to see those lines so I guess if this is really to do with tool itself, to me that would be not acceptable
Hi Andrej, I live in the US. The glue is a “super glue” this version is black so it shows up in the video, but any medium viscosity super glue will do. Usually the tape will fail not the glue. The roller is from Amazon it’s a seam roller. I saw some the other day in a hardware store for laying down vinyl. Actually using a piece of rail as a jaw is not a bad idea.
So for the chips I am super happy they just vacuum right up. The surface finish for facing looks amazing. No lines in the surface where a chip gets wedged in between an makes a circular mark. However the radial finish has steps and it makes a big difference on tight tolerance work. So for that you need to make a tool change and a finish pass.
Nice work. I would happily pay a small fee for the fusion files for these. Are you planning to share them please?
In the beginning I thought I would do that but I kind of feel bad as the fixed side is so similar to the Sounders Mod Vice. I don’t want to hurt them in any way but then I think that if you make your own you would not have bought theirs anyways. So I am a bit troubled right now what to do.
@@JBWorx in my view it's a cheap home made clamp that is a simple design and doesnt come anywhere near rivalling their product. I think you could sleep at night tbh.
I'm going to make some whatever, but being able to adapt an existing file sure would save me some time.
Yes makes sense. I am traveling but should be able to upload the vid for the movable side.
@@JBWorx Normally I would consider using anything free to save time. However, I am as conflicted as well, and your hesitation to provide the model is commendable. John Saunders has certainly been unselfish and sharing. Many of us appreciate his enthusiasm for the trade and both his Fusion 360 and machinist fundamental tutorials . . . all free!
Your ideas and changes to the design are the value added here. In this case I am thankful for you sharing your ideas and CAD isn’t the intent of the video. Certainly somebody with the ability to manufacture, or create shop drawings from a model, can quickly extrude a rectangle and drill a couple of holes in their own model!