Couldn't have assembled my sender without this video. I had the MARPAC kit which was VERY sketchy with no illustration. Thanks for taking your time to make this video!! Super!!
Thank you for the video. Was having major trouble with the directions on this sending unit. I bought the same for my boat and finally came across your video. We have the same old float as well. This video is perfect!
When I installed mine when I did the test to make sure it was ready properly the gas gauge was still reading full. When I would move it up and down the it would move a little but not passed about 3/4 tank. Does this mean the gauge is bad?
Thanks for video. Old sending unit had 3 wires connected. I see power and ground for new unit. What happened to the third wire? I didn’t see that. Thanks.
I'm in the middle of installing this unit myself and cannot figure out what the 2 internal tooth starlock washers go on. The instructions don't mention them but I didn't know it they're used to keep the screw from backing out.
@@ProWrenching I finally figured it out. They are extra parts that are meant for a straight float arm instead of the bent float arm that is in the package.
My gage always goes to empty when power is off.gage is about 1/4 - 3/8 of a tank off..on the low side. I pulled the sending unit, connected the wires and putting the float all the way up is shows 7/8 of a tank. Goes below e when float is down. Do you think I have a bad gage? Love the older Ranger ,I havea 89 375 v...
Yes- it sounds like a bad gauge but you need to test the sending unit with an ohm meter to know for sure. Yeah- I love these 300 series Ranger boats. I think they’re great.
Awesome video! Do you know any tricks to removing the old sending unit if the float is bigger than the hole in the tank that it’s installed in? I would rather not break the old float off and have it floating in the tank, but I’m not seeing a way to crush it down to get it out.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching the video. The float in my boat just barely fit through the hole in the tank. I had to angle it just right for it to come out. Unfortunately, I don’t know of any tricks for the issue you’re facing.
@@ProWrenching thanks! Yeah, I figured it out. I had a tight space between the top of the tank and floor of the boat. I ended up disconnecting the float arm from the sender and was able to angle it out that way.
When you cut the power at the ignition source to the fuel gauge it should be at the last position of the fuel level. Is that not the case? Does your fuel gauge always go down to quarter of a tank?
My gage always goes to empty or just below. It seems to be 1/4-3/8 of a tank off.I pulled the sending unit and connected the wire to the gage .when I pit the float to full ,its showing 7/8 of a tank. Do you think its the unit or gage that is bad??
does any know about reed switchs ----the best sender main so simple only moving part is the float its magnetic they fit standerd 5 hole mounting measure depth of tank minus 1/2 inch to fit your tank fool proof it comes with rubber gasket 2 pus on connectors on top run 2 wires to your gauge USA standard is 33ohms full 244 ohms empty other countrys are different do not inter change once you use reed switch you will want any other one you can order on line go by depth measurement they come in all sizes 8 -8 1/2- 9 91/2 - etc
Instead of that BS with cutting both rods and using that cheezy splice clamp, I wonder if you couldn't cut the main rod on the sending unit(+ enough for float & bend) and just bend it and put the float/keeper on the main shaft ? Couldn't really see what they used to hold the float on.....
Yes- I thought about bending the rod to length and installing and relocating the float because that made sense to me and I think that would work- but the instructions with the product I used specifically mentioned not to bend the rod. I debated it with myself and decided to cut it to length and follow the instructions, but I bet you could bend the rod and make it work.
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Couldn't have assembled my sender without this video. I had the MARPAC kit which was VERY sketchy with no illustration. Thanks for taking your time to make this video!! Super!!
Thank you!
Thank you for the video. Was having major trouble with the directions on this sending unit. I bought the same for my boat and finally came across your video. We have the same old float as well. This video is perfect!
Awesome- thanks! Glad the video was helpful.
your's is L bent at float..how did you get that way?
@@djl2033 it came that way
When I installed mine when I did the test to make sure it was ready properly the gas gauge was still reading full. When I would move it up and down the it would move a little but not passed about 3/4 tank. Does this mean the gauge is bad?
Most likely, your gauge is bad as long as your new sender is the correct one and is not defective.
@@ProWrenching ok thank you
Thanks for video. Old sending unit had 3 wires connected. I see power and ground for new unit. What happened to the third wire? I didn’t see that. Thanks.
On my boat, the third wire goes to the ground for the fuel filler neck. Thanks for subscribing!
I'm in the middle of installing this unit myself and cannot figure out what the 2 internal tooth starlock washers go on. The instructions don't mention them but I didn't know it they're used to keep the screw from backing out.
Ate they identical to the ones that are holding the float on the shaft?
@@ProWrenching I finally figured it out. They are extra parts that are meant for a straight float arm instead of the bent float arm that is in the package.
@@MaximusD180 ok, awesome!
My gage always goes to empty when power is off.gage is about 1/4 - 3/8 of a tank off..on the low side. I pulled the sending unit, connected the wires and putting the float all the way up is shows 7/8 of a tank.
Goes below e when float is down.
Do you think I have a bad gage?
Love the older Ranger ,I havea 89 375 v...
Yes- it sounds like a bad gauge but you need to test the sending unit with an ohm meter to know for sure. Yeah- I love these 300 series Ranger boats. I think they’re great.
Awesome video!
Do you know any tricks to removing the old sending unit if the float is bigger than the hole in the tank that it’s installed in? I would rather not break the old float off and have it floating in the tank, but I’m not seeing a way to crush it down to get it out.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching the video. The float in my boat just barely fit through the hole in the tank. I had to angle it just right for it to come out. Unfortunately, I don’t know of any tricks for the issue you’re facing.
@@ProWrenching thanks! Yeah, I figured it out. I had a tight space between the top of the tank and floor of the boat. I ended up disconnecting the float arm from the sender and was able to angle it out that way.
@@stevenash3949 Awesome! Glad you found a way to get it out of there.
Just wondering if you know why am I gauge shows a quarter of a tank When the ignition is not on
When you cut the power at the ignition source to the fuel gauge it should be at the last position of the fuel level. Is that not the case? Does your fuel gauge always go down to quarter of a tank?
I have a full tank of gas and yes it always shows a quarter of a tank when I shut off the power and I already put In a new sending Unit
@@juniorcortes2478 It sounds like your fuel gauge is bad. If it was my boat, I would replace the fuel gauge in the dash.
seems like you have a stray voltage verfy your wiring should only have two wire gd and sender going to the gauge connect gd wire to dash panel
My gage always goes to empty or just below. It seems to be 1/4-3/8 of a tank off.I pulled the sending unit and connected the wire to the gage .when I pit the float to full ,its showing 7/8 of a tank.
Do you think its the unit or gage that is bad??
does any know about reed switchs ----the best sender main so simple only moving part is the float its magnetic they fit standerd 5 hole mounting measure depth of tank minus 1/2 inch to fit your tank fool proof it comes with rubber gasket 2 pus on connectors on top run 2 wires to your gauge USA standard is 33ohms full 244 ohms empty other countrys are different do not inter change once you use reed switch you will want any other one you can order on line go by depth measurement they come in all sizes 8 -8 1/2- 9 91/2 - etc
Instead of that BS with cutting both rods and using that cheezy splice clamp, I wonder if you couldn't cut the main rod on the sending unit(+ enough for float & bend) and just bend it and put the float/keeper on the main shaft ? Couldn't really see what they used to hold the float on.....
Yes- I thought about bending the rod to length and installing and relocating the float because that made sense to me and I think that would work- but the instructions with the product I used specifically mentioned not to bend the rod. I debated it with myself and decided to cut it to length and follow the instructions, but I bet you could bend the rod and make it work.
@@ProWrenching Yes, I don't think its going to break if you bend it. That's a good piece of rod!!😁