I understand and agree what you’re saying as far as efficiency goes with this fire. I learned the Swedish Fire in the 80’s while in Denmark by some old gentleman during a school I was going through. They too agreed with the inefficiency of the traditional way and would show us this way after we built traditional Swedish log fires. Nicely done and explained
One thing to note, when I do the wire method I will add some sticks to open it up to provide airflow, I've also used other things besides wire to bind it together.
I do carry some galv wire as part of my bushcraft kit, yes I know come Armageddon I won’t have my rucksack with me, but for cooking burgers in the woods with the kids it’s great 😂😂😂 As I quarter the log, I make a cut 3/4 of the way down each section. I cut approx one and a half inches in from the point towards the bark, then, using my axe cut from the top towards the cut. Once I’ve done that to the 4 pieces, I loosely wire it together with a strategic twig here and there to allow for airflow. This leaves me a log, with a square’ish hole from the top to 3/4 of the way down. This I find gives me a slow burn lasting a few hours
As someone that dose both bushcraft and survival camping, I've made these a half dozen different ways or more. The only one I've actually found the most useful, is the one you showed how you prefer making them. These are great if all you are doing is stopping to cook and warm up a bit, before you move on. Or if you're going to camp for the night and this is the only fire you want.
I chainsaw prep mine before I go RV camping but that's not how I chainsaw mine. I don't disturb the outer 2-3 inches of the log, plunge completely though the log, and I don't use wire.
Great idea for large pots. For a small pot. Canadian candle. 5 inch wide log, split in 4, trim inside corners, add stuffing, Pathfinder round stove on top, done, eh
I have a way to dry out wet debris, enough to stuff between the 2 of Amazon 1/4 lb each full-body bugnet suits, Wear the assembly as longjohns. under your cammies. I carry a couple of Amazon 1/2 lb each, "cut-leaf" camo nets, which can serve as insulation, between the bugnet suits. If it's really cold, I stuff debris between the suits AND, outside of my cammies, put debris under the camo nets (which are wrapped around me)
I'm new to your channel and super excited about the training classes you provide. However, I don't see any women. Do you have many women succeed in your courses and is there anything a woman should know before deciding to attend a training course?
if I need to be discrete with the fire, I use a Dakota fire pit to heat up some rocks and use those rocks between my feet, the UCO lantern and beewax candle on top of the rocks. or hanging from a stick across my knees. This ONLY works in a sitting position, using the net hammock as a slingchair. The debris that needs to be dried-out is around my lower legs, between the tyvek bivy and the plastic 'envelope. It takes all night to dry out enough debris for full-coverage of my body, multiple groupings of the debris, multiple re-heats of the stones.
I just carry 3 different types of saw blade and my modified Crunch multitool. If you dont want to spend that much money, just get a Gerber multitool and carry a small visegrip. I dont bother with a hatchet, either. If I was going to lug something else around, it would be the blade (no handle) of a Cold Steel shovel. For a Swede, I just cut four 8" long, 4" OD "logs" The only reason to bother with a Swede, in my book, is if all is wet and you want to ignite a Siberian fire lay. YT has vids on both of these fire lays. Both will burn green, wet wood, if need-be and neither can be extinguished by rain. It does'nt matter what sort of rock you use, IF you warm it up slowly, rotating it so one side does not get all of the heat. By slowly, I mean 2 hours, before you subject it to serious heat. if you do this, the moisture inside of the rock will sublimate into the air, not become steam. I use steel wire, but if you WET cordage, it can suffice to get the Swede bundle burning, Then you can use rocks, dirt, other logs, etc, to hold-together the bundle of logs. Strip the bark/wetness off of about 1/3rd of the circumference of each of the 4 small logs and chop (baton) some chips on that dry surface, leaving them connected to the log. When you stand up the Swede, 'aim' the "open" end of those chips at the ground. This sort of "directs" the flames into the logs. Stuff the center of the bundle with dry shavings, Pile up dry wood scrapings at one end of the log. Protect your hands with damp debris, a piece of clothing or gloves. Once the shavings are burning, pick up the bundle and wave it around, mostly horizontally, until you have flames out of both ends. Set the Swede up on 2-3 sticks/rocks, so air can get under it The Siberian fire lay projects all of its heat in one direction, about twice as far as a normal fire lay. That is a VERY useful attribute, since this lets the Siberian be out in the rain, while its heat can safely come under your tarp, where you and your wet clothing need it.
you can use a regular fire to heat/dry-out the GROUND (after getting rid of the snow) where you'll sleep and bury a lot of small, hot rocks under you. With a Siberian fire lay on either side of you, this will keep you warm enough to get some sleep. You'll have to move the burn-logs every 1-4 hours, depending on their OD and the type of wood, how dry it is, etc. It SUCKS to burn one side of you (or your sleeping gear/clothing), while freezing the other side.. You'll get sick like that, and you probably can't handle wind or rain. I use a hammock and a reflective tyvek bivy and a black plastic 'envelope" around that bivy. If I can't find rocks to heat up and put inside of the bivy with me, I can heat water and put it inside of the bivy. The rocks are a much better deal, with of course have risk of getting yourself soaked The hammock, set 6"off of the ground and with debris kicked under it to stop air-flow, is a huge help, especially if the ground is wet, covered in snow, ants, thorns, rocks, roots, etc.
you dont want to have to use a fire for warmth, folks. You'd BETTER either carry enough sleep/shelter gear and wear enough of the right kind of clothing that a fire is not needed. Carry chemicals and a water filter and food that doesn't require cooking.. I carry jerky, flout tortillas, jelly, nut butter, salad dressing, powdered milk granola and KoolAid. Powdered Gatorade helps more with your need of electrolyes, but I carry REAL electrolytes. My sleep/shelter set up is good to 34F, in wind and rain, and with dry debris, I can handle 10F. If it's colder and you need to be out there very long, it works best if you can get underground. 3 ft down in the ground, it stays 30F, unless you' have several months of sub 0F., Pile up dry debris all around you, and plug the tunnel on both ends of you and it'll be warm without the hassle/danger of fires.
you dont need 8" OD, 8 ft long logs for a Sibeiran fire lay, either. 4" OD and 4 ft long logs work fine, altho you'll need 4x as many of them and have to move them into the flames 4x as often. Drive 4 long stakes and stack 3 such logs between those stakes, forming a "wall". Lay your burn-logs across this wall, at a 90 degree angle to the wall. Spread out the grounded ends of the burn logs, so that the flames will not run down the logs. Leave the burn ends of the logs (to be ignited) protruding over the wall by about 12". Set the Swede where its "chimney effect" 18" high flame will ignite 2 of the burn logs of the Siberian. Move the Swede when those larger logs are burning and ignite other logs. or have more than one Swede bundle.
Seems like everyone is doing the Swedish torch wrong, none of the ways you show are the way I do it. A Norwegian guy showed me a method years ago, no wire, no cord, nothing wrapped round it to hold it together. You could say it’s a “Norwegian Torch”. I’m sure he explained that traditionally the Swedish torch was just a stump from a felled tree that was still in the ground, like a two for one type deal. Your cooking your food and clearing the stumps as you go about your work in the forest.
@@sigma3survivalschool Foresters? Exactly the people who came up with the design, although we take the name from the Swedish Army the design is attributed to the forest workers of Northern Finland.
it's not a Swedish fire log it is a normal fire with logs that are vertical instaed to be horizontal. It is a great idea and a good video but it is not a Swedish fire log.
Okay, then what exactly is a Swedish Fire Log in your opinion, because its the exact same technique, minus all the un-necessary steps, and it has improved air flow.
If all the other variations are Swedish Fire Logs then this variation is a Swedish Fire Log too. This variation is nearly identical to the first variation shown using wire while the chainsaw-cut variation is much more different than both of those variations. Is it the wire that's throwing you off? The height difference? What exactly, disqualifies this as a Swedish Fire Log in your mind other than just wanting to show someone they're wrong even when they aren't?
If you have ever seen a Swedish fire place you would know. A Swedish fire place is barrel shaped and the logs are stacked in it vertically. There seems to be some confusion between a Swedish Torch (sometimes known as a candle) and a Swedish fire. It’s like everything, only takes one person to misidentify something and then everyone thinks that’s what it’s called, look at the “Bank Line” for example, it’s a roll of Tarred Nylon. It doesn’t become a “Line” until it’s attached to something with a purpose, ie: a bank, a washing pole, a fishing reel, a tree or a tent/tarp.
Rakovalkea" is THE ORIGINAL WORD and it is a FINNISH word for a (long) log fire, alsooften used by FINNISH lumberjacks . Just like the word SAUNA is the original word and a Finnish word. But swedes did not / does not like finnish words so they started using a wrong word for it. Bastu was in swedish language just a shed standing on posts , when finns sauno ( steambathed ) swedes had no idea what was going on and thought finns were weird for their habit in the "bastu" (storage shed ). ( Finns as well as their clothes were always clean all times of the year , swedes and other indoeuropeans gathered dirty clothes in piles for ocasional cleaning as well as occasional personal hygien , especially in wintertime , and that is a fact.( I have peronally heard from swedes how things were done). ( I have also witnessed stalites hanging from shirt and that was not in Finland and not worn by a finnish person.)
The logs act as a chimney that directs heat straight up. The logs also insulate containing radient heat, again up. The airflow aspect and nullifilying water ground is a big bonus too
It's just a cool little bushcraft project. I disagree with the op on the method. I use the auger method with two holes, they just look cool when you get them going
interesting way to make fire... as everything, it has it´s own drawbacks... did you actually draw the split line on your block of woud??? you do realise that your way defeats the purpose of why we normaly tend to use the fire torch??? but hey, it´s your job to make us believe that you´re the expert...
I understand and agree what you’re saying as far as efficiency goes with this fire.
I learned the Swedish Fire in the 80’s while in Denmark by some old gentleman during a school I was going through. They too agreed with the inefficiency of the traditional way and would show us this way after we built traditional Swedish log fires.
Nicely done and explained
One thing to note, when I do the wire method I will add some sticks to open it up to provide airflow, I've also used other things besides wire to bind it together.
Cool, the best thing I have seen with a Swedish torch was on the Advoko Makes channel using one to make a convecting hot air heater for a tent.
Great info and demo.Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I do carry some galv wire as part of my bushcraft kit, yes I know come Armageddon I won’t have my rucksack with me, but for cooking burgers in the woods with the kids it’s great 😂😂😂 As I quarter the log, I make a cut 3/4 of the way down each section. I cut approx one and a half inches in from the point towards the bark, then, using my axe cut from the top towards the cut.
Once I’ve done that to the 4 pieces, I loosely wire it together with a strategic twig here and there to allow for airflow. This leaves me a log, with a square’ish hole from the top to 3/4 of the way down. This I find gives me a slow burn lasting a few hours
I usually use the Dakota fire hole method,it has worked for me during any season.
outstanding..going to get some dirt time today..will try..thanks
As someone that dose both bushcraft and survival camping, I've made these a half dozen different ways or more. The only one I've actually found the most useful, is the one you showed how you prefer making them. These are great if all you are doing is stopping to cook and warm up a bit, before you move on. Or if you're going to camp for the night and this is the only fire you want.
I chainsaw prep mine before I go RV camping but that's not how I chainsaw mine. I don't disturb the outer 2-3 inches of the log, plunge completely though the log, and I don't use wire.
Yours sounds like a Rocket Stove. I also use a Chainsaw and have impressed my friends out camping and riding
Great info as usual
Yu made yourself a new suscriber. Love your content and your way.
Great idea for large pots. For a small pot. Canadian candle. 5 inch wide log, split in 4, trim inside corners, add stuffing, Pathfinder round stove on top, done, eh
I have a way to dry out wet debris, enough to stuff between the 2 of Amazon 1/4 lb each full-body bugnet suits, Wear the assembly as longjohns. under your cammies. I carry a couple of Amazon 1/2 lb each, "cut-leaf" camo nets, which can serve as insulation, between the bugnet suits. If it's really cold, I stuff debris between the suits AND, outside of my cammies, put debris under the camo nets (which are wrapped around me)
I'm new to your channel and super excited about the training classes you provide. However, I don't see any women. Do you have many women succeed in your courses and is there anything a woman should know before deciding to attend a training course?
We have numerous female survival instructor graduates. And females in every class, but they are in the minority compared to men
Thank you that is very exciting.. I've always felt a calling to do something like this but never had an opportunity.
if I need to be discrete with the fire, I use a Dakota fire pit to heat up some rocks and use those rocks between my feet, the UCO lantern and beewax candle on top of the rocks. or hanging from a stick across my knees. This ONLY works in a sitting position, using the net hammock as a slingchair. The debris that needs to be dried-out is around my lower legs, between the tyvek bivy and the plastic 'envelope. It takes all night to dry out enough debris for full-coverage of my body, multiple groupings of the debris, multiple re-heats of the stones.
I just carry 3 different types of saw blade and my modified Crunch multitool. If you dont want to spend that much money, just get a Gerber multitool and carry a small visegrip. I dont bother with a hatchet, either. If I was going to lug something else around, it would be the blade (no handle) of a Cold Steel shovel. For a Swede, I just cut four 8" long, 4" OD "logs" The only reason to bother with a Swede, in my book, is if all is wet and you want to ignite a Siberian fire lay. YT has vids on both of these fire lays. Both will burn green, wet wood, if need-be and neither can be extinguished by rain.
It does'nt matter what sort of rock you use, IF you warm it up slowly, rotating it so one side does not get all of the heat. By slowly, I mean 2 hours, before you subject it to serious heat. if you do this, the moisture inside of the rock will sublimate into the air, not become steam.
I use steel wire, but if you WET cordage, it can suffice to get the Swede bundle burning, Then you can use rocks, dirt, other logs, etc, to hold-together the bundle of logs. Strip the bark/wetness off of about 1/3rd of the circumference of each of the 4 small logs and chop (baton) some chips on that dry surface, leaving them connected to the log. When you stand up the Swede, 'aim' the "open" end of those chips at the ground. This sort of "directs" the flames into the logs.
Stuff the center of the bundle with dry shavings, Pile up dry wood scrapings at one end of the log. Protect your hands with damp debris, a piece of clothing or gloves. Once the shavings are burning, pick up the bundle and wave it around, mostly horizontally, until you have flames out of both ends. Set the Swede up on 2-3 sticks/rocks, so air can get under it
The Siberian fire lay projects all of its heat in one direction, about twice as far as a normal fire lay. That is a VERY useful attribute, since this lets the Siberian be out in the rain, while its heat can safely come under your tarp, where you and your wet clothing need it.
What kind of hatchet/tomahawk you got there? I want one!
Link is in the description. It's my own custom tomahawk
you can use a regular fire to heat/dry-out the GROUND (after getting rid of the snow) where you'll sleep and bury a lot of small, hot rocks under you. With a Siberian fire lay on either side of you, this will keep you warm enough to get some sleep. You'll have to move the burn-logs every 1-4 hours, depending on their OD and the type of wood, how dry it is, etc.
It SUCKS to burn one side of you (or your sleeping gear/clothing), while freezing the other side.. You'll get sick like that, and you probably can't handle wind or rain. I use a hammock and a reflective tyvek bivy and a black plastic 'envelope" around that bivy.
If I can't find rocks to heat up and put inside of the bivy with me, I can heat water and put it inside of the bivy. The rocks are a much better deal, with of course have risk of getting yourself soaked The hammock, set 6"off of the ground and with debris kicked under it to stop air-flow, is a huge help, especially if the ground is wet, covered in snow, ants, thorns, rocks, roots, etc.
Sigma is right you guys , but the point was to learn a few thing sin every category that are solid, easy as safe as possible
you dont want to have to use a fire for warmth, folks. You'd BETTER either carry enough sleep/shelter gear and wear enough of the right kind of clothing that a fire is not needed. Carry chemicals and a water filter and food that doesn't require cooking.. I carry jerky, flout tortillas, jelly, nut butter, salad dressing, powdered milk granola and KoolAid. Powdered Gatorade helps more with your need of electrolyes, but I carry REAL electrolytes. My sleep/shelter set up is good to 34F, in wind and rain, and with dry debris, I can handle 10F. If it's colder and you need to be out there very long, it works best if you can get underground. 3 ft down in the ground, it stays 30F, unless you' have several months of sub 0F., Pile up dry debris all around you, and plug the tunnel on both ends of you and it'll be warm without the hassle/danger of fires.
you dont need 8" OD, 8 ft long logs for a Sibeiran fire lay, either. 4" OD and 4 ft long logs work fine, altho you'll need 4x as many of them and have to move them into the flames 4x as often. Drive 4 long stakes and stack 3 such logs between those stakes, forming a "wall". Lay your burn-logs across this wall, at a 90 degree angle to the wall. Spread out the grounded ends of the burn logs, so that the flames will not run down the logs. Leave the burn ends of the logs (to be ignited) protruding over the wall by about 12". Set the Swede where its "chimney effect" 18" high flame will ignite 2 of the burn logs of the Siberian. Move the Swede when those larger logs are burning and ignite other logs. or have more than one Swede bundle.
Seems like everyone is doing the Swedish torch wrong, none of the ways you show are the way I do it. A Norwegian guy showed me a method years ago, no wire, no cord, nothing wrapped round it to hold it together. You could say it’s a “Norwegian Torch”. I’m sure he explained that traditionally the Swedish torch was just a stump from a felled tree that was still in the ground, like a two for one type deal. Your cooking your food and clearing the stumps as you go about your work in the forest.
That probably works great if you have a chainsaw. But who carries a chainsaw, other than foresters
@@sigma3survivalschool Foresters? Exactly the people who came up with the design, although we take the name from the Swedish Army the design is attributed to the forest workers of Northern Finland.
Right on. Thanks for the lesson. But forester tactics rarely apply to bushcrafters
@@sigma3survivalschool There are a huge number of transferable skills between forestry, arboriculture and bushcraft.
Outside of knots name some for me
"chew the meat and spit out the bone" yep
I uploaded the version of the torch I was shown, it’s easier to show than it is to explain.
This guy's head is a perfect oval. Odd but novel.
Yeah man, you said it-a swedish fire thing is alot of work for a simple fire. I couldnt do that thing-and it made me stupid
To each their own I guess/suppose
it's not a Swedish fire log it is a normal fire with logs that are vertical instaed to be horizontal. It is a great idea and a good video but it is not a Swedish fire log.
Okay, then what exactly is a Swedish Fire Log in your opinion, because its the exact same technique, minus all the un-necessary steps, and it has improved air flow.
If all the other variations are Swedish Fire Logs then this variation is a Swedish Fire Log too. This variation is nearly identical to the first variation shown using wire while the chainsaw-cut variation is much more different than both of those variations.
Is it the wire that's throwing you off? The height difference? What exactly, disqualifies this as a Swedish Fire Log in your mind other than just wanting to show someone they're wrong even when they aren't?
It is a Sigma Swedish fire log!
@@sigma3survivalschool Why are you asking? Apparently you didn't do thorough research before you made your video.
If you have ever seen a Swedish fire place you would know. A Swedish fire place is barrel shaped and the logs are stacked in it vertically. There seems to be some confusion between a Swedish Torch (sometimes known as a candle) and a Swedish fire. It’s like everything, only takes one person to misidentify something and then everyone thinks that’s what it’s called, look at the “Bank Line” for example, it’s a roll of Tarred Nylon. It doesn’t become a “Line” until it’s attached to something with a purpose, ie: a bank, a washing pole, a fishing reel, a tree or a tent/tarp.
Your opening says it all, ...."If you can't do it with a Knife, Saw and Hatchet....."...........stay home
Amen. I Aint humping a bunch of extra gear for the gram lol
So just pack a chainsaw in your bugout bag, which seems legit!
👍👍👍
Rakovalkea" is THE ORIGINAL WORD and it is a FINNISH word for a (long) log fire, alsooften used by FINNISH lumberjacks . Just like the word SAUNA is the original word and a Finnish word. But swedes did not / does not like finnish words so they started using a wrong word for it. Bastu was in swedish language just a shed standing on posts , when finns sauno ( steambathed ) swedes had no idea what was going on and thought finns were weird for their habit in the "bastu" (storage shed ). ( Finns as well as their clothes were always clean all times of the year , swedes and other indoeuropeans gathered dirty clothes in piles for ocasional cleaning as well as occasional personal hygien , especially in wintertime , and that is a fact.( I have peronally heard from swedes how things were done).
( I have also witnessed stalites hanging from shirt and that was not in Finland and not worn by a finnish person.)
Да, наверное
I don't understand what's wrong with a regular fire... Why even waste the time with this?
98% of the time I do a regular fire. But occasionally it's nice for a larger pot and stew cook becauseputtingthe pot right on the coals smothers them
The logs act as a chimney that directs heat straight up. The logs also insulate containing radient heat, again up. The airflow aspect and nullifilying water ground is a big bonus too
It's just a cool little bushcraft project. I disagree with the op on the method. I use the auger method with two holes, they just look cool when you get them going
interesting way to make fire... as everything, it has it´s own drawbacks...
did you actually draw the split line on your block of woud???
you do realise that your way defeats the purpose of why we normaly tend to use the fire torch???
but hey, it´s your job to make us believe that you´re the expert...
👏🔥🪵👌🇳🇴🤠