Good Job, as you would be aware, as long as the Camshaft is Case Hardened more than the Rocker Arms, it should be Ok, if the Rockers are Harder than the Cam then you have Problems!
@@pbysome Yeah, for the most part, but eventually parts wear regardless of lubrication, you're better off having a camshaft with a higher Rockwell rating than the Rockers or you'll wear the cam prematurely, you can replace the rockers or weld & grind them for less cost than a new cam - Cheers👍
@@purebloodheretic4682 in my experience rockers, or followers, are of a similar hardness, stellite is often used on followers and chilled steel on cams. Get the clearance correct and use good quality correct grade oil upkeep maintenance and there should be no issues.
NIce job, using relatively simple tools.. i love your grinding machine.. i would have used oilstones after grinding the rockers, first an India stone, and then an Arkansas.. a quick touch up with the polishing wheel afterwards.. and Bob's your Uncle.. the coating afterwards is for sure a good thing..
these cams are cast, they have to be welded with a cast iron coated electrode. They should also be left to cool submerged in sand, or lime, so that cracks are not generated in the piece. it is possible that after a few hours of work they will break. In any case, they look great on you! engine sound is good. good luck!
Always Nice Job. With all respect! You must heat with Torch Light the rocker arms after all the repair job but before the final buffing, till you see small tiny flames and metals goes out of the arms that time immediately put it on small can with engine oil you have for recycling. That called metal painting/strength. 3 times per arm & their gonna be as strong as it was and after all make final buffing! Its not necessary but it help for brand new Cams. Keep Up the Good Work as Always!!
Paulo belo trabalho ficou show parabéns, cara nos ajude aí em mais informações na sua construção da ferramenta de retifica de sede valeu forte abraço aqui do Brasil
Hmm hardfacing the rockers is interesting. I would have gone in with 954 aluminum bronze but I'll be interested to see if the cam holds up. You did get a good heat treat on it so they should both be at a comparable surface hardness. If you see spalling or excessive iron content on an oil analysis that wound indicate one or both parts is coming apart.
I have no machining experience. I wonder about the same issue as toastbrot. How do you know that you have the correct radius/height/dimensions on rocker arms that will provide the correct valve opening and duration? Is it all brought into spec with valve adjustment?
Both cam and rockers look very nice! What alloys were used? I know the cam/lifter interface is a difficult lubrication situation, especially during the unfortunate moments of inadequate oiling that happen. I thought qualities other than just maximum hardness were important. I like these 1st Gen trx350's. High steering effort at low speeds! I think they might have a tight LSD in the front. I used to work on them at a dealer. Saw a cam failure, replaced a few CDI's. Too bad they used drum front brakes...not self adjusting, I think. Many were used hard and hardly maintained. Please comment on alloys used, galling resistance, etc. if you read this!
Does this get good life? I've always assumed you'd want your cam to be the hard part and the follower to be soft, since the rocker arm is easier/cheaper to replace than the cam. Or do you just make them both as hard as chinese algebra and everything lasts long enough as is?
Did you make the tool that you used to easily remove the rocker arm pin? I'm look to purchase something similar, ER25 5 collet and a collet nut is all I have atm, where can I get the rest of the things? Ty
hola como estas? mi nombre es mauro soy de argentina,mucho gusto! tengo la misma camioneta con el mismo motor. tuve que hacer el motor a nuevo. encamisado,plano y la culata se reparo. y se puso todo nuevo¡ el mecanico armo todo y la sali a andar y me justa presion, infla manguera. desarmamos le hice la prueba hidraulica a la culata y estaba bien, lo unico que termino soplando junta,le hicimosplano y armamos de nuevo. me la termino hace unos dias y me sigue levantando presion en las mangueras. no consume agua, no falla, no se pasa aceite. solo infla manguera. podras darme algun dato que me pueda ayudar a encontrar la falla. mil gracias
good work. maybe better than new, because that doesnt look like good quality.. just a liitle proposal: I would have applied heat for extracting the bolts.
Technical question: the original cam would have been drop-forged, machined and then case hardened to give it core strength and surface hardness. Will the new cam retain those characteristics being machined from billet? FYI I’m not a machinist but I am involved in a manufacturing. I also had a Honda cam/rocker fail in the same way on a similar age machine. Great work btw.
experience from a underbone racing mechanic: most reasonable part for that damage is lack of oil going to the cylinder head, oil starvation is the main cause of this, maybe from clogged oil filter or just negligence from the owner and also the valve clearance of the valve screw itself, no matter what kind of material used in camshaft as long it has lubrication it will last, we used local brand camshaft or just welded camshaft and grind it, it still serve it's purpose as long as it has lubrication
All good interesting stuff, but the radius of the cam follower alters the lift, duration, valve timing. Seems to me that you just got the radius by grind and guess. I played with follower radius a million years ago, in the days when you had to draw all the graphs by hand. Very time consuming. Sure computers have made it much easier... Oh, and I just scrapped a TRX350 with a good top end.... Seemed a waste, but the bike was just rust and shattered plastic.
A cheap trick, to avoid this from happening. Use a good synthetic motor oil. You have to be a good welder and mechanic to do this. New rocker arms are probably hardened by nitraiting. Much durable. But even more difficult. When buying second hand. Listen and test compression. Check valve play. Look at least at spark plugs.
Good Job, as you would be aware, as long as the Camshaft is Case Hardened more than the Rocker Arms, it should be Ok, if the Rockers are Harder than the Cam then you have Problems!
Surely that's the job of the oil.
@@pbysome Yeah, for the most part, but eventually parts wear regardless of lubrication, you're better off having a camshaft with a higher Rockwell rating than the Rockers or you'll wear the cam prematurely, you can replace the rockers or weld & grind them for less cost than a new cam - Cheers👍
@@purebloodheretic4682 in my experience rockers, or followers, are of a similar hardness, stellite is often used on followers and chilled steel on cams.
Get the clearance correct and use good quality correct grade oil upkeep maintenance and there should be no issues.
Really impressed that you're willing to have a go. The finish on those faces is probably better than they were when they came from Honda.
Tey're expencive as hell too. I have done this because those are 70+ a Peice.
Barbaro, voy a intentar hacer eso mismo con los balancines de mi Mercedes 1962, te quedaron excelentes y muchas gracias por compartir el conocimiento
Have you ever tried laser welding? It is not (over)heating the parts like TIG do (even "pulse" or single shot ones).
NIce job, using relatively simple tools.. i love your grinding machine.. i would have used oilstones after grinding the rockers, first an India stone, and then an Arkansas.. a quick touch up with the polishing wheel afterwards.. and Bob's your Uncle..
the coating afterwards is for sure a good thing..
that grinder is so clever, great idea !!!
nice! Would love to see you build a peformance cam for a engine with dyno numbers
Looks restoration rocker arm so easy for them, good jobs mister
these cams are cast, they have to be welded with a cast iron coated electrode. They should also be left to cool submerged in sand, or lime, so that cracks are not generated in the piece. it is possible that after a few hours of work they will break.
In any case, they look great on you! engine sound is good. good luck!
👍
Beautiful job as always.
Always Nice Job. With all respect!
You must heat with Torch Light the rocker arms after all the repair job but before the final buffing, till you see small tiny flames and metals goes out of the arms that time immediately put it on small can with engine oil you have for recycling. That called metal painting/strength. 3 times per arm & their gonna be as strong as it was and after all make final buffing! Its not necessary but it help for brand new Cams. Keep Up the Good Work as Always!!
👍
You are my favorite chanel in the youtube 🔥🔥
impressive video and work, this guy keeps astonishing me
جيد جداً عمل رائع كان لدي نفس المشكل وأطر بي الوضع لشراءها جديد شكرا لك اخي
Paulo belo trabalho ficou show parabéns, cara nos ajude aí em mais informações na sua construção da ferramenta de retifica de sede valeu forte abraço aqui do Brasil
Good job my friend. Very satisfying.
Hmm hardfacing the rockers is interesting. I would have gone in with 954 aluminum bronze but I'll be interested to see if the cam holds up. You did get a good heat treat on it so they should both be at a comparable surface hardness. If you see spalling or excessive iron content on an oil analysis that wound indicate one or both parts is coming apart.
Nice work. I like it.
Do you reshaped the face of the rockers by eyeballing? Have any measure ore drawing of the rocker?
I have no machining experience. I wonder about the same issue as toastbrot. How do you know that you have the correct radius/height/dimensions on rocker arms that will provide the correct valve opening and duration? Is it all brought into spec with valve adjustment?
experiences - feeling - eyes . . . . .
Great work! You are an example!👍
Beautifull job and beautifull machines that you fabricate amazing
Mantap boskuh 👍👍
مرحبا ماهو نوع الحديد الذي تستخدمه
Do you know if the new radius of the follower was the same as the original?
great job. What is the denomination of the tig contribution that you used?
Again impressive work my friend.
your repair tools are very good I don't know what machine parts it comes from
From old Germany grinder
@@PaulXchannel thanhk 😊
@@PaulXchannel I really like your techniques😊👍
excellent work paul. What is the name of the 58hr tig welding input you use?
ابداع وقمة الإبداع تسلم يداك نتمنا لك التوفيق والنجاح في ❤
Pekná oprava!
Во всём такие технологичные инструменты, а цангу er25 держит "собакой"! А я яй! Паз под ключ просится!😉
Another excellent job 👍
You did a great Job👌🏻
Beautiful work👍👍
Guud job PhoL eX 👍👍💝
How would cobalt hard facing work? Now I want to have honda so I can repair rocker arms...
Both cam and rockers look very nice! What alloys were used? I know the cam/lifter interface is a difficult lubrication situation, especially during the unfortunate moments of inadequate oiling that happen. I thought qualities other than just maximum hardness were important.
I like these 1st Gen trx350's. High steering effort at low speeds! I think they might have a tight LSD in the front.
I used to work on them at a dealer. Saw a cam failure, replaced a few CDI's. Too bad they used drum front brakes...not self adjusting, I think. Many were used hard and hardly maintained.
Please comment on alloys used, galling resistance, etc. if you read this!
More here :
ua-cam.com/video/BbqqnOHlA_c/v-deo.html
you can try making the grinding tool, usually I only use a hand grinder
also visit my channel all friends
well done, I am absolutely impressed, thanks and greetings from Germany....
Does this get good life? I've always assumed you'd want your cam to be the hard part and the follower to be soft, since the rocker arm is easier/cheaper to replace than the cam. Or do you just make them both as hard as chinese algebra and everything lasts long enough as is?
Gotta ask...The rocker arm shafts and the bore they pivot on is OK? The shafts are stationary, but the rockerarm and/or the shaft must have wear.
Ok
One follower for two valves. Seems like a bad idea to me. I use EP tranny lube for assembly, or oil.
Did you make the tool that you used to easily remove the rocker arm pin? I'm look to purchase something similar, ER25 5 collet and a collet nut is all I have atm, where can I get the rest of the things? Ty
Thank you for this experience 👍🏻
Excelent job and equipment...
Nice work!
Como siempre muy buen trabajo y vídeo.
hola como estas? mi nombre es mauro soy de argentina,mucho gusto! tengo la misma camioneta con el mismo motor. tuve que hacer el motor a nuevo. encamisado,plano y la culata se reparo. y se puso todo nuevo¡ el mecanico armo todo y la sali a andar y me justa presion, infla manguera. desarmamos le hice la prueba hidraulica a la culata y estaba bien, lo unico que termino soplando junta,le hicimosplano y armamos de nuevo. me la termino hace unos dias y me sigue levantando presion en las mangueras. no consume agua, no falla, no se pasa aceite. solo infla manguera. podras darme algun dato que me pueda ayudar a encontrar la falla. mil gracias
Muito bom trabalho..parabéns
I would wager that the scotch brite finish would hold onto oil better than the high polish surface.
Hoping for the video for the camshaft grinder to be posted..thank you..☺️
Мне понравилось, хороший опыт. Hello from Russia!
Nice work
I have a question,Did the rocker face has its specific cure? Did`t it ?
Preciso comprar essa vareta de solda mas não estou achando no meu país Brasil. Tem como me ajudar ?
Ini sangat bagus,saya ingin belanjar langsung,tapi saya mau ke tempatmu tidak tahu dimana😢
You can arc weld with rvs arc welding
Μπράβο μαγκα
So eine Universal- Schleifmaschine werde ich mir auch bauen
Uma usinagem incrível material muito duro claro so pode ficar bom trabalho profissional de mais
when you restore it, why you dont add roller element instead of original sliding toutch point?
ua-cam.com/video/4l5jrdnaIN4/v-deo.html
Hi from Spain. Congratulations for your good Jobs! What coating you apply to the rocker arms? nitride coating in a moniac furnace?
DLC
@@PaulXchannel do DLC coating decrease friction too?
Yes
Hi paul id like to see more on the dlc process what it is and how its done
More in future videos
I like you videos!
Its nice to see this. But buying the equipment to do the job is way too expensive. Bettrer just buy new rocker arms.
I might sound a total dingus but how did he determine the shape and dimensions of the heads?
good work.
maybe better than new, because that doesnt look like good quality..
just a liitle proposal: I would have applied heat for extracting the bolts.
Nice work. Κοκοράκια που λένε και εδώ!
Can u explain the specification of the grinder
Do you check wipe pattern?
FANTASTIC JOB, HOW DO YOU PAY FOR DLC COATING SERVICE?
Where did the coating do the coating?
отличная работа
Paul.. Need to ask u bout common rocker arm material? Is it from cast iron..if i weld it with mild steel electrode, is that ok?
It is necessary to use a hard weld + wear-resistant coating.
Wouldn’t it be cheaper to by new rockers?
Bravo Bravo !!!!!!! Muito Bom 👏👏👏👏👏👏 parabéns
Hey where are you from? That SEZ Dolny Kubin electric motor on a grinder :D
Technical question: the original cam would have been drop-forged, machined and then case hardened to give it core strength and surface hardness. Will the new cam retain those characteristics being machined from billet? FYI I’m not a machinist but I am involved in a manufacturing. I also had a Honda cam/rocker fail in the same way on a similar age machine. Great work btw.
experience from a underbone racing mechanic: most reasonable part for that damage is lack of oil going to the cylinder head, oil starvation is the main cause of this, maybe from clogged oil filter or just negligence from the owner and also the valve clearance of the valve screw itself, no matter what kind of material used in camshaft as long it has lubrication it will last, we used local brand camshaft or just welded camshaft and grind it, it still serve it's purpose as long as it has lubrication
you have no idea what you are talking about
no need to polish the surface! the oil won't stick.
Ficou melhor que novo 👏👏
wow solid 👍👍👍👍👌
Hola que tal? Como se llama el aporte?
Un trabajo excelente, felicidades.
Hello, which HCR58 rod did you use? Brand or part number? Size? I am looking for it in Europe.
www.globalweldingsupplies.co.nz/range-page.php?sku=R_TWHFTDH13
@@PaulXchannel Thank you!
Brilliant
amo seus vídeos 🙏👏👏👏
Agora, só falta colocar Militec 1 no motor.
Abraço
i was like : Make him an exhaust linewhile u are there lol and at the end i saw a new line
All good interesting stuff, but the radius of the cam follower alters the lift, duration, valve timing. Seems to me that you just got the radius by grind and guess. I played with follower radius a million years ago, in the days when you had to draw all the graphs by hand. Very time consuming. Sure computers have made it much easier... Oh, and I just scrapped a TRX350 with a good top end.... Seemed a waste, but the bike was just rust and shattered plastic.
Wow where do I learn to do this
Deutchland
Thank U
Where are you from?
All ways change your oils and filters and use good high quality oil and let the bike warm up before you move it
👍
A cheap trick, to avoid this from happening.
Use a good synthetic motor oil.
You have to be a good welder and mechanic to do this.
New rocker arms are probably hardened by nitraiting.
Much durable. But even more difficult.
When buying second hand.
Listen and test compression. Check valve play. Look at least at spark plugs.
BTW
This guy is some kind of pro.
I am just an universal machine pro.
I only do my own Mc. Only BMW Kbikes before 2004.
nice ...
Request....!!
Two stroke please...
Bro pleace upgrade head klx 150 4 valve.🙏
Great
pozdravljeni, zelim popraviti
glavo motoria pri vas. prosim daj mi svoje kontakte🙏🙏🙏
Respekt !!
Can you give me the information, what the coating is based on and how much the thickness is ?
Kind regards from Germany !
DLC
👍👍..
Damn i watched two videos to hear the high revs