everyone knows this feeling too good - and every time on set, when im in the second row - working as a AC / Gaffer / 2ND Unit Camera and seeing the DP in exactly the same situation - it breaks my heart to see the stress in the persons eyes! but just rethink & calm down and dont panic.
Thanks for another great share Luc. A couple of thoughts from a long time Doc Gaffer. I find that unless I'm dealing hard against a window, something like a 200w Amaran with an Impact fresnel shoulld do the job fine and have the ability to dial down ... and a lot smaller than the 300 and elipsoidal set up. In this scenario, that's how I would approach it. Unbleached Muzz, great choice ... I don't fly with c-stands, I use micro blade stands and make a t-bone out of small pvc to hang the rags, they can get pretty tight against the wall or they can be paper taped to the wall (don't use gaffer's tape). Another trick is I carry small metal mending plates from home depot, again wrapped in paper tape, they can be taped to a wall or cabinet then use small magnets to hold your fabric or tube lights, no damage. I hope that plants some seeds for small footprint solutions. Keep up the good work!
Those are some really great ideas! Thanks man!!! =) I’m preparing for an international shoot - only my second time flying with video gear actually. Little tips like yours are gold. =)
Another fantastic video, Luc! I appreciate how you introduce the tools before demonstrating their use. Your teaching experience clearly contributes to your natural communication style. Best regards from Cinematic Adventures!
Great video! It’s finally starting to sink in that DP’ing is all about problem solving, and the process can be enjoyable and not always panic-inducing lol Thanks!
not diffusion, but scrim aka black net. cheapest available everywhere option is black window screen. works great for sources that don't make heat. single layer should work, probably won't need to double it up but you can. next option is fabric store where you can find material like black bobinette - black mesh ( stretchy hex lace w/o the fire retardant of the film vers ) or various black curtain materials. again, simple, cheap, easy and can be folded up to fit into the light case easily. I always travel with a few pieces for the reason you make : LED's that don't dim enough.
Hey man, digging the content! I feel like I´m learning a lot through your videos and they are also entertaining and fun:) Keep it up man
День тому
that was an amazing video man! it is always amazing to see other peoples approach. One thing that would be cool is different lighting techniques fro the same scene, 1 point, 2 point, 3 point, stronger edgelight, stronger keylight... because for that scene i would have boomed a small light behind his head, a mc or the inkee with 5600k an the left side to motivate light from the window and a warmer light around 3200 -4000k from the right side to be motivated by the light on the table and also a bit further back and then for a better wrap a popup reflector or another light idk :D But i hope you get what i mean i think when a few filmmakers get together often they all would light a scene differently and that would be super interesting to see :)
Great video. I think I've tried all these set ups. I love the spotlight but not a fan of the extra bulk in travel. 1x1 for the win IMO and I keep a few MCs in my bag at all times. Keep making great work!
this could not come at a better time for me! awesome video, thank you! quick question, would you say the light doesn't spill as much when you draw a smaller square inside the bounce instead of lighting it entirely?
I love the spotlight attachment use them all the time. tbh, I actually thought the 2x2 panel looked the most flattering but thats just my take. For doc shoots I usually pack various size flex fills from 4'x5' on down clipped to manfrotto nano stands along with small bedsheets paper taped to the walls Deakins style. The MC pro rig was cool, def gonna add a sheet pan to my kit.
Thank you for the tips, it's certainly hard to try many options when you don't have so much gear. However, I missed any mention of audio. Your favorite was the spotlight, and I was wondering if you used the 300d with the active cooling (fan) and if that would've increased the noise floor in an unpleasant way, especially on such a small space where the fan noise can bounce quickly around the walls as they're so close. I have a cheap Godox light and the fan is noticeable.
Can someone explain to me if the practical was to show motivation how come the key Light was daylight and the practical was tungsten? The final product looked to match well but I'm confused how they matched when they were 2 different color temperatures. Thanks in advance.
I’d go with two b7c’s two mc pros and a bunch of those pb6’s. The infinitives are brilliant. You can stack 4 together as a panel and you can use them as accents or rim lights even. The pb12 got soft boxes and grids as accessories, so I guess pb6 does as well. Also brilliant for any b-roll. If you want a panel light the f21c is lower in intensity and in fan noise than the f22c. And can even act as a light to lift the room ambiance. You could get a thick muslin from Amazon to cover it and reduce the output significantly if you are using it up close as key light. Grids would also be of high priority if it was me.
I wonder if instead of using a spotlight whether it might be possible to use a regular bowen's mount reflector with a grid on it. I guess it wouldn't be as effecient as putting a spotlight on a light, but it seems like in a small room like that you would still have plenty of power. Mole Richardson use to sell white paint for painting the interior of hard boxes. Not sure if they still make it or not, but it could be worth it to buy a 5-inch reflector and paint the interior white, and then throw a tight grid on it.
I couldn't help noticing a massive flat screen TV in the frame. Have you ever tried to use such a device to create a highly customizable source of diffuse light ? It is a massive LED array, a diffuser and a customizable filter stacked together, and they are more or less available everywhere you go. Just need a laptop with a set a pictures to suit your needs.
It is heavy, unwieldy, delicate and difficult to position. A TV is great for a background element in a studio environment or even as flexible backdrop for a small still life composition, though.
For a specifically the FX 22 I probably would have just turned it around and let it bounce off the wall to help take some of the heat out of it and make it even softer source
What happened to the zhiyun lights that you reviewed some time ago. Molus x100 and g60... they put out couple more since then - x60 and x60 rgb. You praised them exactly for the output, size and portability. Why did you exclude them from consideration? Is there a problem with reliability for shoots like this one? Or is it the fact that they are COB lights, and not good for this because of the type?
just think twice and use mini-bowens projector units!!!! using the spotlight a lot for doc shoots! against white wall, against Scrims and reflectors. tip for size: use fixture with mini bowens mount, save half of the footprint! i use a Nanlite 150D (most powerful unit with mini bowens mount, daylight only for more output) + 19° mini projector. its more or less exact the same size like a Aputure LS 300 + Dish/Fresnel! and the power output between a 150D and a 300D is just little more than one F-Stop. normal bowens mount projectors are big and heavy - if size and weight matters, like on most of doc shoots, just go the mini-bowens route unless you need much more power, like a 600W / 1200W COB. i just use one bag: the bag the projector comes shipped with, the forza is so tiny, that attached light + projector fits perfectly in the bag.
2x2 or 3x1 Intellytech lite cloth . Folds down small , can hang off small stands or attach to wall. Each diode has a diffusion layer so relatively softer to begin with , dims down very low. The older 160 2x2 comes with just an unbelievably small and light weight hard case. TBH all these alternatives are very fiddly, just want one stand , one light , one slim soft box / egg grid.
The spot light with a few gobos could be nice even for bigger setups. I love to throw some blinds on a wall in the background or some little accent like that
Recent discovery on my amaran f22 that should apply on your f21. You can lower to 1% from control box. From the app can go even lower like 0.9 / 0.8 / ... 0.1 % Curious, why wouldn't gaff tape it to the wall?
The shot looks good, I was hoping you were going to try and figure out a small hair light. Next, how to combat the echo like the one in this video haha
Thanks Luc! I'm shooting a doc on the claustrophobic community this April, so it will be pretty funny when I beckon them into the smallest room in the house for the interview! 💪🎥
Suggested video: how to light a car interior, with driver and passenger, while driving at night. Option 1: add two passengers in back seat. Option 2: while driving in the rain or snow at night.
@@LucForsyth I was going to say the same thing. Also space wise for travel I prefer this option but would use an egg crate on it so it doesnt spill all over the room, that would also help dial back the intensity a bit.
Great walk through! Instead of the spot, would a barndoor kit with grid inserts work? You don’t get the precise shape control, but it’s gonna be a lot cheaper and lighter?
tbh all looks not good lolllll one 60x on right side like you did, and one tube on the back, one small bounce on front just to make the catch light in the eyes.
I don’t understand the need to go lower in intensity. Your practical clips in the background and doesn’t look natural to me. Because of the inverse square law, the more level you have the more you can control the spill, especially in small spaces. Trying to balance things in the 1% range makes spill a nightmare and will create issues when you have even the slightest amount of daylight coming in the room. So if you NDd down and brought that practical to a level that just creates a bit of interest in the BG instead of being the brightest and most prominent feature in your fame, then you wouldn’t need to put all that diffusion on your panel. Adding probably a bounced out of frame 60x or something to up the ambience of the room would make it a full, easy to travel with package. I take my hat off to you scoring such a gig and love the way you present your content, you sound like a great guy and this comment is made with the best intentions possible. Hope it’s not taken the wrong way.😊
The fake pleasant conversation while internally panicking is so accurate
everyone knows this feeling too good - and every time on set, when im in the second row - working as a AC / Gaffer / 2ND Unit Camera and seeing the DP in exactly the same situation - it breaks my heart to see the stress in the persons eyes! but just rethink & calm down and dont panic.
Lol i can be so socialy awkward that i quit cus of this reason😂
AHH just bare with me for twooooo secondssssss.. while I ..... Hmmmmmmm.... Okayyyyyy
Thanks for another great share Luc. A couple of thoughts from a long time Doc Gaffer. I find that unless I'm dealing hard against a window, something like a 200w Amaran with an Impact fresnel shoulld do the job fine and have the ability to dial down ... and a lot smaller than the 300 and elipsoidal set up. In this scenario, that's how I would approach it. Unbleached Muzz, great choice ... I don't fly with c-stands, I use micro blade stands and make a t-bone out of small pvc to hang the rags, they can get pretty tight against the wall or they can be paper taped to the wall (don't use gaffer's tape). Another trick is I carry small metal mending plates from home depot, again wrapped in paper tape, they can be taped to a wall or cabinet then use small magnets to hold your fabric or tube lights, no damage. I hope that plants some seeds for small footprint solutions. Keep up the good work!
Those are some really great ideas! Thanks man!!! =) I’m preparing for an international shoot - only my second time flying with video gear actually. Little tips like yours are gold. =)
Loving the content lately. Less gear focus, more expertise.
Another fantastic video, Luc! I appreciate how you introduce the tools before demonstrating their use. Your teaching experience clearly contributes to your natural communication style.
Best regards from Cinematic Adventures!
2:15... dying... regular conversation while panicking internally... I have seen this conversation so many times...
Haha, yeah, I had to start laughing because it hit so hard!!! :D
Professional really means to f up like any other guy but you are better in hiding it :D
Great video! It’s finally starting to sink in that DP’ing is all about problem solving, and the process can be enjoyable and not always panic-inducing lol Thanks!
not diffusion, but scrim aka black net. cheapest available everywhere option is black window screen. works great for sources that don't make heat. single layer should work, probably won't need to double it up but you can. next option is fabric store where you can find material like black bobinette - black mesh ( stretchy hex lace w/o the fire retardant of the film vers ) or various black curtain materials. again, simple, cheap, easy and can be folded up to fit into the light case easily. I always travel with a few pieces for the reason you make : LED's that don't dim enough.
Thank you Luc for demonstrating a realistic lighting scenario. This is super helpful.
Hey man, digging the content! I feel like I´m learning a lot through your videos and they are also entertaining and fun:) Keep it up man
that was an amazing video man! it is always amazing to see other peoples approach. One thing that would be cool is different lighting techniques fro the same scene, 1 point, 2 point, 3 point, stronger edgelight, stronger keylight... because for that scene i would have boomed a small light behind his head, a mc or the inkee with 5600k an the left side to motivate light from the window and a warmer light around 3200 -4000k from the right side to be motivated by the light on the table and also a bit further back and then for a better wrap a popup reflector or another light idk :D But i hope you get what i mean i think when a few filmmakers get together often they all would light a scene differently and that would be super interesting to see :)
Love this type of content. Trial and error is the best learning pathway.
107k sub luc! Congrats on that!!
My favorite is the Amaran 300c and Spotlight SE 36°. Relative small, compact.
This was a fun video! There’s so much problem-solving in filmmaking
Great video. I think I've tried all these set ups. I love the spotlight but not a fan of the extra bulk in travel. 1x1 for the win IMO and I keep a few MCs in my bag at all times. Keep making great work!
Lovin this content, really interesting and helpful.
this could not come at a better time for me! awesome video, thank you!
quick question, would you say the light doesn't spill as much when you draw a smaller square inside the bounce instead of lighting it entirely?
Probably, I guess in general the smaller the spot the less spill - would have to try it to be 100% sure though!
I love the spotlight attachment use them all the time. tbh, I actually thought the 2x2 panel looked the most flattering but thats just my take. For doc shoots I usually pack various size flex fills from 4'x5' on down clipped to manfrotto nano stands along with small bedsheets paper taped to the walls Deakins style. The MC pro rig was cool, def gonna add a sheet pan to my kit.
Great vid, I think this is an ideal scenario for a CRLS get up.
You should try out some of the 50cm Godox Liteflow mirrors. I have been playing around with them in small spaces and they can look really great.
Thanks for the great video! What C-Stands are those? I didn’t see them listed in your links.
Thank you for the tips, it's certainly hard to try many options when you don't have so much gear. However, I missed any mention of audio. Your favorite was the spotlight, and I was wondering if you used the 300d with the active cooling (fan) and if that would've increased the noise floor in an unpleasant way, especially on such a small space where the fan noise can bounce quickly around the walls as they're so close. I have a cheap Godox light and the fan is noticeable.
I have the Nanlite Forza 60B with its projector and it’s small and useable for bouncing in small places. Plus it can be handheld battery powered too.
Light mat with diffusion looks the best to me.
Can someone explain to me if the practical was to show motivation how come the key Light was daylight and the practical was tungsten? The final product looked to match well but I'm confused how they matched when they were 2 different color temperatures. Thanks in advance.
I’d go with two b7c’s two mc pros and a bunch of those pb6’s. The infinitives are brilliant. You can stack 4 together as a panel and you can use them as accents or rim lights even. The pb12 got soft boxes and grids as accessories, so I guess pb6 does as well. Also brilliant for any b-roll. If you want a panel light the f21c is lower in intensity and in fan noise than the f22c. And can even act as a light to lift the room ambiance. You could get a thick muslin from Amazon to cover it and reduce the output significantly if you are using it up close as key light. Grids would also be of high priority if it was me.
I wonder if instead of using a spotlight whether it might be possible to use a regular bowen's mount reflector with a grid on it. I guess it wouldn't be as effecient as putting a spotlight on a light, but it seems like in a small room like that you would still have plenty of power. Mole Richardson use to sell white paint for painting the interior of hard boxes. Not sure if they still make it or not, but it could be worth it to buy a 5-inch reflector and paint the interior white, and then throw a tight grid on it.
I couldn't help noticing a massive flat screen TV in the frame. Have you ever tried to use such a device to create a highly customizable source of diffuse light ? It is a massive LED array, a diffuser and a customizable filter stacked together, and they are more or less available everywhere you go. Just need a laptop with a set a pictures to suit your needs.
It is heavy, unwieldy, delicate and difficult to position. A TV is great for a background element in a studio environment or even as flexible backdrop for a small still life composition, though.
For a specifically the FX 22 I probably would have just turned it around and let it bounce off the wall to help take some of the heat out of it and make it even softer source
What happened to the zhiyun lights that you reviewed some time ago. Molus x100 and g60... they put out couple more since then - x60 and x60 rgb. You praised them exactly for the output, size and portability.
Why did you exclude them from consideration? Is there a problem with reliability for shoots like this one? Or is it the fact that they are COB lights, and not good for this because of the type?
Would have been curious to see if a grid on the f22 would have helped. I know that's more about control but usually cuts light down a bit too
I actually preferred the amaran panel with 7 layers of diffusion, looked nice to me
just think twice and use mini-bowens projector units!!!! using the spotlight a lot for doc shoots! against white wall, against Scrims and reflectors. tip for size: use fixture with mini bowens mount, save half of the footprint! i use a Nanlite 150D (most powerful unit with mini bowens mount, daylight only for more output) + 19° mini projector. its more or less exact the same size like a Aputure LS 300 + Dish/Fresnel! and the power output between a 150D and a 300D is just little more than one F-Stop. normal bowens mount projectors are big and heavy - if size and weight matters, like on most of doc shoots, just go the mini-bowens route unless you need much more power, like a 600W / 1200W COB. i just use one bag: the bag the projector comes shipped with, the forza is so tiny, that attached light + projector fits perfectly in the bag.
2x2 or 3x1 Intellytech lite cloth . Folds down small , can hang off small stands or attach to wall. Each diode has a diffusion layer so relatively softer to begin with , dims down very low. The older 160 2x2 comes with just an unbelievably small and light weight hard case. TBH all these alternatives are very fiddly, just want one stand , one light , one slim soft box / egg grid.
Love these experiment video!
The spot light with a few gobos could be nice even for bigger setups. I love to throw some blinds on a wall in the background or some little accent like that
Awesome!
Recent discovery on my amaran f22 that should apply on your f21.
You can lower to 1% from control box. From the app can go even lower like 0.9 / 0.8 / ... 0.1 %
Curious, why wouldn't gaff tape it to the wall?
The projector was the best option to me, but couldn't you use barndoors instead?
Why would you start with fabric instead of just bouncing off the wall first?
the MC's look surprisingly great im ngl
The shot looks good, I was hoping you were going to try and figure out a small hair light. Next, how to combat the echo like the one in this video haha
I love the Sheety-Rig!
That intro😂😂😂 is the best!
Thanks Luc! I'm shooting a doc on the claustrophobic community this April, so it will be pretty funny when I beckon them into the smallest room in the house for the interview! 💪🎥
I wish you would have had the Aputure 80c for this.
Don't tell Sh**ty Rigs...attaches lights to a cookie sheet 😆
Suggested video: how to light a car interior, with driver and passenger, while driving at night. Option 1: add two passengers in back seat. Option 2: while driving in the rain or snow at night.
The air tube's that been popping up lately as modifiers make a 60W-200W punch above its weight class
NICE!
Bounce bounce bounce bounce
The 1% brightness of the F22c doesn't seem right to me. I use the F22c all the time and I feel like mine gets much more dim than yours.
Maybe mine's old!
@@LucForsyth I was going to say the same thing. Also space wise for travel I prefer this option but would use an egg crate on it so it doesnt spill all over the room, that would also help dial back the intensity a bit.
Also, Shooting with the Burano now? Do tell.
Just seeing how it feels 😉
5:16
Maybe the lightbank inflatable lights will work in this situation.
15:20 the catchlights also show up in his teeth
Great walk through! Instead of the spot, would a barndoor kit with grid inserts work? You don’t get the precise shape control, but it’s gonna be a lot cheaper and lighter?
There would be a ton of spill though once you turned it up enough to bounce across the room...I think it wouldn't work in the same way
Lowkey, a tube light with a white pool noodle works everytime
You got a Burano?!?! So jealous.
Light Mat looked best
A comically niche question, but....what brand of vise jaw clamp are you using there? 😂
Shape!
@LucForsyth Thanks man! Great video by the way! I love seeing these ones that are so thorough and practically applicable for niche situations.
🎉🎉
with that intro I thought it was a doc about Narnia
Oh did you finally buy the Burano?🌯
tbh all looks not good lolllll one 60x on right side like you did, and one tube on the back, one small bounce on front just to make the catch light in the eyes.
I don’t understand the need to go lower in intensity. Your practical clips in the background and doesn’t look natural to me.
Because of the inverse square law, the more level you have the more you can control the spill, especially in small spaces. Trying to balance things in the 1% range makes spill a nightmare and will create issues when you have even the slightest amount of daylight coming in the room.
So if you NDd down and brought that practical to a level that just creates a bit of interest in the BG instead of being the brightest and most prominent feature in your fame, then you wouldn’t need to put all that diffusion on your panel. Adding probably a bounced out of frame 60x or something to up the ambience of the room would make it a full, easy to travel with package.
I take my hat off to you scoring such a gig and love the way you present your content, you sound like a great guy and this comment is made with the best intentions possible. Hope it’s not taken the wrong way.😊
Just a quick heads up and this is going to ruffle some feathers. The industry isn’t calling it a China cube it’s just a lantern. 🤣🤓
😂
China cube is a specific product made by Westcott
@@LucForsyth oh shit, really? 🤣🤣🤣