How to improve your turntable or cassette deck with just 1 drop of oil
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- Many inexpensive turntables and cassette decks have noisy motors, causing a buzzing sound and increased wow & flutter. Carefully opening up the motor and adding just one drop of oil is all it takes to make the motor smooth and silent and improve its performance.
I recommend add oil to the front bushing too with needle or tooth pick.
I tried that first and it didn't fix the noise/vibration, but it's good to do anyway.
helped with mine.
Those clever guys at "Pyle Home" are pure geniuses. They've dealt with the problem of gear getting obsolete by putting "Contemporary" on the front!
KernArc I’ve always thought Pyle was the beginning of Pyle of s..t!
Brilliant video. Just repaired my first noisy motor on an old pioneer deck. Would not have dared to open it up without this guidance. Thanks
Dude, you never cease to amaze me with your audio device DIY repair know how.
Respect.
Keep up the great work!
For anyone here with a cassette player like a walkman and you need oil, id recommend the oil they use on sewing machines since that oil is meant for very small delicate parts, and then put that on the tiny mechanical parts and such.
Also i think im going to try this on my walkman and see if it makes a difference or if it makes the motor not work etc, will edit the comment if it works/doesnt etc
EDIT: after closely looking at the inside of the motor i can conclude that there would most likely be no benefit of oiling it, only thing to make a walkman quieter would be using a plastic friendly lubricant on the plastic gears
oh also i should include DO NOT put oil anywhere near the gears or the belt, it can start slipping, also dont add too much to the parts or the oil can come off onto the other parts like mobo etc
Another source is that little bottle you get with an electric razor but never use. Fine machine oil 👍
Had to do this with a Nakamichi BX-125 tape deck I have. It uses three of those exact same brushed DC motors in the transport mechanism.
This is such a common problem, I recall coming across forum threads where people were discussing alternative replacements for these motors. Modern brushless motors are infinitely more reliable.
I was surprised the brushes were happy to just move aside as the motor was reassembled, great video 👍
I was going to comment on that. My experience is they don't usually move aside that easy and if your not careful or devise a way to spread them enough to clear the washer and commutator you will bend them.
@@bradt.3555 Indeed... I did a "Oh no... You didn't just..."
Those "fingers" are called brushes - that's what a "brushed motor" got its name from ;)
I remember some old motors that had actual _brushes_ (small brushes with a bunch of metal bristles). Needless to say, those weren't as reliable as a solid metal piece, which in turn isn't as good as brushless. I guess that's progress or something. 🤷
He just said metal fingers because he’s a big MF DOOM fan.
Fingers is better 🤣 and actually includes brushes. A brush is made from many fingers.
When transferring small bits of oil, use a finish nail or tooth pick and the molecular adhesion will let the drop ride right in to the hole.
Thanks for the tip. I have a bottle of ball bearing lubricant that is used for sewing machine, roller skate, and skateboard ball bearings. The bottle uses a syringe needle to apply tiny drops of lubricant to bearings. Definitely comes in handy when I need to lubricate things in right places.
Great info as always. I picked up a JIS screwdriver set based off your video and it's been a lifesaver at my repair shop.
Thanks for the how to improve cassette deck and Turntable’s motors
VWestlife: Very appreciable video. Thanks! I just repaired a weak sankyo-pioneer engine (PL-335). First I connected it to a 12v adapter immersed in alcohol for 25 minutes and pulled out a lot of dirt, but remained weak. Then I tried to remove the pulley to put it on another good motor and the whole shaft came out. Oops Finally when returning the axis to its place and without knowing how, it was fixed! A drop of 3 in 1 will be a thousand times better than the wd40. You're right!
Many motor shafts are just friction fits and will come out it you PRY the pulley. You need a miniature "gear puller" in that case. These grip the sides of the pulley and push against the shaft, taking all the strain off it.
In some situations you can use a heat gun ... brass pulleys of course... plastic ones usually will slide off ... both are most likely friction fit ... some of the brass ones where actually placed on the motor shaft while they were very very warm ... when it cooled down the friction grip increased there by making the pulley nice and tight
@@RuneTheFirst Appreciate a lot. Thanks man!
@@darinb.3273 Appreciate a lot. Thanks!
@@darinb.3273 Appreciate a lot. Thanks!
Thanks for that. I always assumed they just sound like that. Never crossed my mind to oil it.
Wish I saw this video when I had my 8-track apart. I did see that the backing came off, but didn't want to attempt, because of its age, and I didn't want to search for a replacement. Thanks! now IO know for the future!
I own this deck after trying to buy a restored quality Nak deck with no luck. All of them still had problems. I installed quality isolation feet, lubed the motors and play tapes through a Schiit Vidar amp and Emotiva loudspeakers. I think it sounds great and it is easy to work on. Belt changes, motor speed adjustments, etc are not obstructed by large circuit boards.
What you really need is an oil especially made for motors. Zoom Spout oil is 3-in-one for motors is another. These oils have special additives that really help lubricate and maintain electric motors. I bought my Zoom Spout oil at Lowes. Works great!
I have done it and works great! Be careful not to damage the PCB inside. Thanks for this video.
Wow, not only did I learn how to quiet a motor I now know why I have a devil of a time working on electronics! Now to find a set of JIS screwdrivers!
My Sharp Cassette deck is doing this! Thanks for the tip.
Thank you for this video! My second turntable (Stir it up) is finally making less noise. Strange that such a quite expensive record player uses these cheap motors.
Great video. Such a simple solution to such a common problem that should never have left the factories in that way....and most folk wouldn't have a clue why their deck made such a noise! Well done Kevin for this video; clear and simple instructions on how to fix these stupid manufacturing cost-cutting errors... Many thanks :-)
The song played out as if with virtually no wow and flutter, quite impressed. If I was doing a blind test, I'd have said it was a CD.
Very nice video I always oil the other side so thank for showing me the right way to oil the motor
@vwestlife I did exactly that to my Craig turntable I found it had same thing no oil so put a drop in . as you said yes have to be very careful with finger brushes and its quieter til vamp up to 78 rpm but its not loud just normal. Did it first try and it worked Beautifully! Even put some oil on the bearing area for platter and top bearing of motor. I used Castle branded Endura. Its high temp grease but will basically never break down lol its not thick but its enough where its made to withstand 600 °F . I've used this on my 12 v cooler its an old Coleman 36 can type and it made it better then ever I've had it for 11 years now still going strong. Thank you again for suggestion!
12v cooler fan ..... thank you Matthew 👍, mine's been getting loud and ..... duh haha
Take notice of the kind of brushes used in each motor. Some have a surface of durable material on the end. They don't like oil on them. It screws up contact between the brushes and the rotor. A needle syringe or bottle works better than drop and hope.
Also, some motors, such as older Mabuchi offerings, will have a wider surface between the bearing and where the brushes ride. this was meant to shield the brush area from oil on the older models. These will not just slip together as the wide end (like a washer) will just push the brushes down and bend them away. In some cases we had to take off the pulley (brass or plastic) and pull the whole rotor out, assemble the rear to the rotor and put everything together the hard way. A long shaft motor is easier since the magnets will pull things off center. Takes practice, lots of it.
A better way:
We have taken to using a device known as a "pin vise" and very tiny drill bits to carefully drill a tiny hole just a hair off the exact center of the rear "bearing" rather than take the plastic "bearing" out. Oil can then be added through that hole. Works great and is far easier. You can get a pin vise and needle drills from a good hobby shop (especially one that specializes in trains) or from eBay or Amazon. Most pin vises come with a couple of bits. Cheap yet valuable!
A motor (Dremel) tool could be used but one little error and NO MORE MOTOR! There is WAY more control and precision with the hand tool.
How do you keep metal shavings from getting in the motor while drilling into it?
Jep. Just be sure not to drop on the belt. They desintegrate very fast (in a few days)
Lot of people say use talcum powder on belts. never tried.
4 year old video.... worled like a charm. As usuall, thanks for your work 🫶
for a more permanent lubrication, you should use silicone grease instead, and it won't attack plastics
I don't think the red 3 in 1 will attack plastic.
How can you insert the grease without making the brushes dirty?
@@detscadosu2465 I blasted a squirt of WD Silicone and it been great enver since (touch wood)
I's my understanding that those motors used oilite(sp) bushings that were vacuum-impregnated with oil at the factory. That oil eventually must dissipate, I guess.
Awww little oily babies
I don’t wanna be “that guy”, but who the hell gave this a thumbs down? Or any of these, like I seriously don’t understand that. Just don’t finish the video and don’t subscribe. Is that the only way you can get noticed anymore cause your negativity gets you blocked when you say terrible things in the comments? I totally get free speech, I totally understand and love a good discussion, but stuff like this, it’s really very helpful to a lot of us, and why be all negative? There were great tips from others in the comments because of this that i didn’t think of like using a toothpick, and the lithium grease... i love the community cause of the help we all give each other. It’s not healthy to be negative, in the words of a great poet of my time ... don’t worry, be happy.
Luckily thumbs down still counts as interaction in Googles algorithm. If you really don't like a video and want to spite the person just close the tab and move on. VWestlife should see a thumbs down as positive.
I couldn't agree more! There are those here on UA-cam that are just "Dick-Heads"......and they live to be that.
I look forward to Westlifes's video. His dry sense of humor always makes me chuckle. He has helped me a LOT regarding turntables as well! PLUS! I like his "unique voice".......it's peaceful and relaxing. To hell with the "Dick-Heads" out there!!!!!
Patrick
CyberLinkGuy1968 I usually laugh too, like his commentary looking at that old mail order catalog, that was hilarious. The world isn’t lonely with UA-cam.
@@iamapopsicle9457 it counts as an interaction but instead of recommending the video to other people who liked things you liked, it recommends it to other people who disliked similarly. It's like an automated hate train. It's no wonder certain touchy topics get such high dislike counts so quickly, the algorithm is funneling it to people and essentially saying "you love to hate on other similar things, so you might also enjoy hate-watching this". It's bizarre.
@@kaitlyn__L UA-cam really loves those watch minutes.
Thank you for very interesting documentary.Normally when I do repairs on a cassette deck I just replace motor, there quite cheap around £5 U.K
Sintered bronze (oilite) bushings are always annoying. They actually WERE oiled at the factory, and they work because the cast bushing is porous. But when that reservoir runs out, the porous metal acts like sandpaper against the shaft, and will erode it quickly if you don't re-oil it right away. This happens all the time with modern household fans. Older fans used to have a reservoir sponge that you could add oil to, and the bushing would absorb this oil, but newer ones are made to be disposable, because that's where the profit is.
I don't want to be "that guy" but this is a great video with helpful tips to improving analogue playback.
I used to work on vacuum cleaners when I was in high school, and used to repacck motor bearings.
Though brands like Kirby,, used to say everything was lubricated, and that nothing required any sort of lubrication, unless a motor was overhauled, or rebuilt, like what I used to do.
Though, if I was taking the machine apart, I greased the motor bearings, anyway, no matter what the manufacture said.
This is what I do with noisy brushless DC (computer) fans. under the sticker on the back there is usually an access point to the bearing or sleeve. I use sewing machine oil, though. I'm sure it's pretty much the same.
Thanks for the help my Sony walkman made noise.... Like that u rock Kevin.
I’ve always kept both of my Technics SL-1200MK2’s spindle bearings lubricated with the proper SWFO 010 oil. 😁👍🏻
Great tip! I can't stress enough how important it is that these little contact fingers end up in the right spot when reassembling. They need to slip over the small plastic disc onto the thicker part if the shaft, which actually makes contact with the coils. I just learned this the hard way this evening when doing this hack (also modded the motor to now have external speed control pots like on more expensive turntables - works great ...after almost breaking the motor). At first the motor didnt spin and the motor control IC (the black thing outside the metal casing next to where the wires attach) got awfully hot within seconds. If you do this and your motor doesnt spin, KILL THE POWER INSTANTLY! I'm lucky I didn't burn out mine. So what happened? These contact fingers didn't properly align inside, got tangled and touched each other, which shorts the IC. Being an experienced electronics DIYer I quickly found out what was wrong, but I needed a few tries to put the motor together in the correct way, especially as the contact fingers then were not perfectly straight anymore.. Starting at an angle so I could actually see inside to make sure the shaft went in between and not over the contacts and then going as straight as possible did the trick. Also checking with a multimeter that the contacts weren't shorted again is a good idea before powering up the motor and potentially killing it.
Do you have any further tips on this procedure? Other than that, like I said, great tip. Love your videos.
I just saw a tip where you bend a piece of wire into a "U" that is narrow enough to fit into the two thin slots in the plastic housing that holds the fingers. You insert each end into the slots and slightly twist. It will separate the fingers wide enough for the commutator to fit between.
Hi!
I tried this but everything went wrong :-).
The disassembling was simple but the internal parts (the coil) moved out of place and it was impossible to put the covers back without the motor getting stuck.
Finally the metal fingers get bent so now my deck is history.
I'll see if I can get a new motor or a new deck.
Anyway i wasn't using it because of the flutter it haves which annoyed me beyond the imaginable.
I've got tired of """technicians""" (lest's call them flakes) so that's why i've decided to give it a try.
Great video but you have to be very careful...
Thanks!
By the way, the deck was a Hitachi D-E25.
Finally a video showing how to exactly do it, thank you.
Those bearings are supposed to made of sintered bronze. Tiny bronze balls squished together under high pressure and high temperature, so the result is porous, then they submerge them in a special grease melted under high temperature, then put it in a vacuum chamber. The molten grease creeps into the tiny pores among the bronze balls, and that's the lubrication for the lifetime of the bearing. I assume in cheap motors, they don't use sintered bronze, just ordinary, machined bronze without lubrication.
“These motors are not for servicing” Vwestlife: hold my beer
"Body And Soul" by Ed Ames. I knew it was him, thanks for the confirmation Shazam!
0:04 Sounds like a Klaxon AKA Ahooga horn
Nice! I guess I'm not the only one who's brave / crazy enough to take these little motors apart. I suspected most new motors weren't lubed at the factory.
Interesting type of cassette deck brand,,ion,,. Looks very easy work to remove the motor assembly from the machine for repairs.
A real group 4/5 synthetic like Amsoil 30wt or white lithium grease works great for analog hi fi gear.
Good video. God bless
Hey that's a GREAT suggestion I never thought about my turntable motor its quiet but faintly noisy I may try with spare motor like you did. A single drop of oil works especially like I have model railroading as my other hobby . my dads Lionel train was very noisy and not as fast I put some TLC on it before and zoom took off like a rocket. However model trains like I have are older HO scale 2 required oil but the others need plastic compatible oil/ grease Thank you Kevin. PS when you were saying about difficulty of getting oil in the bearing area. Model trains have special bottoles with a needle tip that goes into hard to reach areas. :D
"It looks like the ending" was the best point, to finish the video.
If your lacking a syringe..a large sewing needle. The thread hole keeps a drop of fine oil suspended perfectly until you touch it to the part you want oiled, then it all flows out like a little fountain pen.
Have been doing motors for years.....I use an electrical friendly lube and cleaner such as CRC 2-26 or some similar similar product...Often it is not necessary to remove the back of motor as it can be squirted through any available holes and will work itself around inside (this applies mainly to motors without internal speed control). Don't forget to work lube into the front of the motor too..
Motors in CD and DVD players can be treated like this too......If you have a sick CD or DVD player, first clean the lens..If still no good, clean and lube the motor ( mainly the spindle motor)!
I use sewing machine oil, one drop a year on my PL-516X keeps it running and running. It does have low power after 30 years so thinking about replacement.
Works on computers too.
Came across an unreliable computer - kept crashing. A drop of oil on the CPU fan sorted it.
Many older motors such as those in fans and air conditioners were designed to be oiled on a regular basis. At least once a year. Newer fan motors use plastic parts and don't need the oiling. But you want to make sure you use motor oil.
IMPORTANT: Use always ‘Synthetic’Oil
Example?
Yes Sir, fixed both motors on my Yamaha cassette deck with 3 in 1.
Some of those motor like this can have the brushes completely destroyed ... most if not all of those motors have two little tiny holes (one for each brush) ... the brushes are pushed back and a wire or very tiny screwdriver for each side will hold the brushes back until the end cap is in place ... then the wires or screwdriver(s) can be pulled allowing the brushes to go back to normal position.
Thanks for the tip. But so far I haven't needed to do that with any of the motors I've taken apart, oiled, and put back together.
I'll bear this in mind - thanks for another useful video!
Man, that ending though! Nice video!
I have a deck nearly identical to that one except its under the Pyle brand. Playback works okay, but recording on this deck is terrible. So far it's a Pyle of crap... Did you do anything to get the record function working any better on the B deck?
Actually on mine it's the opposite -- it records better than it plays, at least on Type I tape. Its playback is very hissy, but the recordings it makes sound great when played on a better deck.
@@vwestlife Interesting. Playback is somewhat hissy on mine, however recording is like I said un-listenable. For instance, when playing back it's recordings the audio will warp in and out and even distort a lot of the time. I thought it was maybe something to do with the heads or belt, but if it plays just fine, I can't exactly see how any of those things would cause an issue.
Are you pretending. It looks like the ending. XD
Great video VWestlife
It works for every motor, PC fans especially but not for long.
Not sure about 3-and-1 oil because it’s very light. It’ll work but may not last for years as it dries out (sealed containers will limit the drying however). It also can have a bad reaction with some plastics (though I’ve only read about that and not experienced it).
I’ve used white lithium grease for similar purposes and it’s very slick and won’t evaporate or dry out for decades.
Tip for everyone: if you’re going to use 3-in-1 oil, use the oil in the blue bottle.
The regular 3-in-1 in the black and red bottle has additives such as naphtha, and the oil will gum up. The blue bottle 3-in-1 will not gum up and is much better.
Regular 3in1 is poor. It is made for hinges and other easy-access things around the house. I used Hoppe's gun oil back in the day and switched to synthetics when they first appeared from LaBelle in the 60s.
@@RuneTheFirst Labelle was good stuff. used it for model railroads. I have about weened myself off of 3-in-1 (blue bottle only) for almost everything but sewing machines now.
I specifically use the blue label 3-in-1 as that's designed specifically for electric motors
Excellent video...great job!
Anything that uses those cheapo motors are junk... I bought some motors for replacement work ... the replacements are junk as well... 2 out of 6 motors worked OK.... the others .... the wow and flutter made them unusable for cassette player or Phono use....I use singer sewing machine oil works great ...
that's exactly what I use!
Presumably Mabuchi motors would be good replacements in a cassette deck, they still seem quite cheap. They're seemingly still used in RC cars at least(were definitely used in Tamiya cars in the past, may still be), and also found one in an old cassette deck(quite a large motor in this case).
I have an old Pioneer PL 12 turntable that has a hole in which to add oil. Sewing machine oil works best.
I have a low to midrange Technics deck from the mid-80s that occasionally screeches horribly. I tracked the noise to the motor, so I think I'll try this when I get a chance and hope that fixes it.
I took apart the tape motor in my boombox to oil it, and inside it was actually a smaller motor in a separate housing that was wired to the little circuit board. Not like the motors shown in this video
You see those slots under the brushes? They are what you use to lift the brushes when you reassemble so you dont bend break etc the brushes
So many armchair electronics repairmen in the comments. Let see your videos.
Trying to set up for that now. 5 decades of doing this professionally.
As stupid as the "You can't be critical until you've a Michelin star/No 1. album" argument.
I did not really expected that lubricating the motor of 88's boombox will make such a big difference, its silent, does not wow/flutter anymore and playbacks way more nicely.
Sewing machine oil is a better choice.
Add a drop of oil to the motor shaft, under the spindle or pulley, too.
I had a horrible screeching sound during playback so I opened up the unit a Denon drm 7somthing and sqirted wd Silicone into one of the back holes and it fixed the problem in an instant...
I can hear a clicking in my speakers when my cassette deck is playing, both decks, whether there's a tape in it or not. I was gonna give this fix a shot. Or do you think it'll help or is that something else entirely? It's a Fisher CRW9225. Yeah, I know...
I suppose you could even run a drop of oil down a small piece of wire into the hole, or use a cocktail stick and let one drop run into the hole?
I believe the metal fingers on the back are called brushes.. Also you should be carefull not to squash them with the little plastic spacer that's on the rear end of the shaft when assembling the motor.
Thanks for sharing with us. I wonder hoe did you measure the speed and stuff at the end of the video?
I am curious about the kind of oil to use. Since they seem like brushes, won't the oil insulate the contacts? Or should we use oil like the de-oxit lubricant for contacts/sliders that are conductive?
This was a really useful video thanks. BTW.... ( 11:25 )... Is there a dentist somewhere that is missing a tool? LOL
No, it's from a Harbor Freight set of "test probes": www.harborfreight.com/test-probe-set-5-pc-61872.html
Do you know who makes the motor for the bang and Olufson ouverture casette deck? Mine has ceased and needs replacing, thank you.
I'd suggest a purpose-made electrical lubricant like CRC Electrical Silicone Liquid Lubricant. It won't gum up over time, is electrically neutral, and won't hurt plastics. You can spray the whole motor and it will protect and lubricate.
I'm sure it's a great product, but buying an $8 can of it to fix a $2 motor seems a little silly.
@@vwestlife It would be a lifetime supply if you used it only for this application, but you can use it for nearly any of your electrical lubrication needs. Fans, motors, potentiometers, typewriters, etc. You can also use it around the house on hinges, garage doors and the like.
Ive got that same Ion tape2pc deck. I got mine from Goodwill. I believe I got it for $10.
Chris&Derek that’s $10 more than I’d have paid for it.
I always assumed those bearings were made from oil sintered brass.
Sintered bronze, not brass. I assume in nowadays' cheapo Chinese motors, they just use machined bronze or brass to save a few cents. If doing so, at least they should put a drop a grease in the bearings, but it seems they don't...
VWestlife, a very detailed, informative demonstration of repair! However, should anybody doing this sort of more complex DIY repair project wear an anti-static wrist strap? As in upgrading, or repair of a Desktop PC, it is important to attach a wrist band around your left, or right wrist while touching, holding, and adjusting most things in a computer. Therefore, should the same procedure, and precaution be applied with a hi fi audio component? Thank you for any technical advice.
It's a good thing to do while working on computers, although I've found that periodically touching the power supply to ground yourself is OK as well. And these motors run on 12 volts and are not so sensitive like computer equipment so I doubt static electricity will harm them.
@@vwestlife Thank you for the advice on this repair.
Prior to looking, do you know if the Kenwood P-91 turntable would have this motor?
By the way, on these LED VUs we can see the dynamics compression of the volume (loudness war) applied. We can see that exactly where the volume sounds louder, the VUs are reduced to only the first 3 LEDs with no pumping. It just freezes there on those parts 😕
The LED meter on this deck is rather coarse -- the top end of the scale is in 3 dB steps, which represents a doubling of loudness. So smaller changes in volume won't show any difference on it.
HI I enjoy your channel.i have a question i have a Yamaha tape deck KX W392 vintage 1994? i have had it for 4 years? recently on playback or record in auto reverse the sound will be fast or slow.any ideas on what might cause this? thanks in advance!
Thank you for the great video, I think this is just what I need to do! My question is how did you get the motor out in order to do this? I don't want to manhandle mine too much & break everything.
The motor on my Memorex 9199M (tape deck/turntable/CD player combo) is "attached" to the bottom of the platter.
Any advice for a repair novice like myself would be greatly appreciated @vwestlife .
Great tip! I recently replaced the belts on my at the time unplayable Sony CFM-155 and oiled the motor as you show here. The motor sounds great and I don't notice anything amiss with it. The playback speed however is noticeably slower. I used a generic cassette belt assortment and matched them up to the original belts. Could this possibly be the result of opening/cleaning the motor? I tried using smaller and larger belts but to no avail. Should I adjust the motor speed or is there something I've possibly done wrong? Thanks!
Try adjusting the speed make sure that one of the belts ain't tite if that doesn't work out if you can try the original belts
I just got a Technics SL-Q200 and it doesn't have the buzzing sound but it makes this really weird, faint clicking sound when the platter is on. It's not coming from the speakers, and you don't even have to have the power on to hear it. It sounds as if something is rubbing against something. I looked online but couldn't find any solution. I've heard the most common method is to lubricate the spindle, which I plan on doing. But I don't know if it will work. And it's very nice except for that, and runs at a constant speed. I'm afraid if I lubricate it, that may change.
Nice work... can you tell us where we can get a test tape from? What price would you expect to pay for one?
How long does the oil last on those machines? Do they last just as long as the ones from the factory?
Yea I'll practice on my Spare motors.
In my opinion SYNTHETIC 0W30 or 5W30 engine oil is superior lubricant , to 3in oil . (The 0W , indicating same viscosity as water at room temperature)
What oil did you use for that video, I’ve got put oil in my deck too because it is squealing like a pig and I’m in a dilemma on what to use so I don’t mess up the motor
I have a question, for example in the LP 60xhp how can lubricate the motor?
Hello, when one of those adjustment potentiometers goes bad, is is possible to have it fixed, or is it better to replce the motor? thanks.