You definitely went above and beyond on that one. I hope the tenant/ owner appreciates it. It's obvious that whomever makes/installs those cages has no clue about servicing the unit. You earned your money on this one.
You need to charge extra for gardening and lock smithing and bumps on your noggin. Say $1,500.00 to start. Oh by the way add $500 more for house insulation. And $350 for hair loss.
Curtis, you need to charge them extra for the head bump...lol You are really going the extra mile on this one to make the return cavity more efficient.
I had to do the same thing in my MIL house after hurricane Katrina. It was drawing all that hot air from the attic. It got opened up with the gutting of the house and not put back after. A pain, but if you don't do it, it will never work right. If there is a place to bust my head I will find it. That must be a really rough neighborhood to have to cage in the condenser like that, ridiculous. How can it be serviced? Cleaning or any kind of repair, such as the fan motor has to be impossible. They needed to position the unit where the service area faced the opening or design the cage where you can pull it completely off. I tell you, there is nothing I hate worse than a thief. Thanks for sharing, nice haircut, I need one myself.
now we can call you, knot-head! 🤣🤣 I have 5 lumps on my head currently, from bashing into things early in the week. speaker, duct, pipe, stairs and a door. 🥳
Great job. I do recommend if you can to carry around canned spray foam for this kind of thing. Also for thermostats too... tons of air leaks behind them.
Dap makes a good latex based one for stuff like this.(Daptex) It's white like caulking, cleans up with soap and water, doesn't have air holes in it, you can press, form, shape, sculpt, paint it after curing. The can be used over and over again if you rinse the straw and nossle in warm water. It's some amazing stuff!
Great Job on the return! Those A Coils from the Video looked like Shinola! Just noticing from the Video that one of the door bottoms was sealed with a rolled up Towel or something. That being the return for that room would make me suspicious🤔 Maybe vents are closed too. Thanks for your Video!☺️
I think maybe you need a YOUNG apprentice, perhaps an aspiring gymnast, to crawl into those tight spaces. That looked like a real chore. No doubt you earned your money on that one.
In a confined space like that? Between the propellant and the adhesive/foam mixture, I'd want to read the safety data sheets for the product and think about a minimum of a half-mask respirator with the correct cartridges. Insulation contractors spraying "spray foam" wear Tyvek suits and a respirator for a reason and that's in a fairly open space, not a small confined space. You only have one pair of lungs, so safety first. In my line of work, I handle Ammonia and Gas Chlorine, Muriatic Acid and I'm certified to wear an SCBA and half mask respirator with various cartridges for my protection and I have confined space training. Th exposure from a chemical used in an open space can be entirely different in a small confined area, because the concentration you are exposed to increases dramatically. As the level of exposure increases, so does the level of toxicity.
I've used Great-Stuff and Sika products in confined spaces many times, for crawl spaces, joist bays, under/behind tubs. Off gasing wasn't really an issue because I would apply in small layers, allowing expansion in between, but I did have a can blow up in my face once. The top of the can completely let go off the cylinder. I wasn't wearing safety glasses at the time. Had it in both eyes, mouth, nose, all over forehead and in my hair but not a damn spot on my clothes. Needless to say lesson learned, I will never touch a can without a pro grade pair of safety glasses or goggles on.
@patrickinottawa27 I'm pretty sure they're talking about stuff in a dispensing can or gun, not two part mix pro-grade. Just to substitute the mastic he had to use in the corners with the foam boards, not the entire cavities.
@@ronlovell5374 I'm talking about the spray cans for DIY consumer use. There are many products out there that are designed to be used in a well-ventilated area and are perfectly safe. But you change the environment to a small area with limited air exchange and the concentration of the various chemicals in that product which you are exposed to increases significantly. Propane, Butane and Isobutane are used as propellants in DIY cans. Then you have the foam and a chemical activator which causes the foam to expand. The chemicals used are toxic during the installation process. From the Manufacturer (Dupont) for Great Stuff Gaps and Crack Spray Foam in a 12oz Can. Page 7 of 26 Safety Data Sheet - Exposure control. The odor and irritancy of this material are inadequate to warn of excessive exposure. Lethal concentrations may exist in areas with poor ventilation. The product contains an asphyxiant which displaces oxygen In a small area, there is enough asphyxiant in the can to reduce oxygen to unsafe levels. The SDS also recommends protective clothing, eye protection with side sheilds or a full face sheild and chemical resistant gloves. They also recommend a half mask respirator with the appropriate cartridges for vapours and in areas with less than optimal ventillation, supplemental ventilation or a self contained breathing apparatus (SCBA). During the installation process the chemicals can irritate and/or do permanent damage to your lungs and airway. This is for their consumer product and the vast majority of consumers are not going to visit their website to get a copy of the SDS and read the 26 pages to understand what they are using before they use the product. Just because it's in a consumer sized 12oz can, doesn't make the product any safer than what's in the professional version. The consumer version is just more convenient to use. Thankfully, most consumers will use this product in a well ventilated area. The area Curtis was working in was small with limited ventilation and the blower for the furnace was off. In my opinion, spray foam would not have been appropriate to use without significant PPE.
Nice work! On the next one put sections of fiberglass batt insulation inside trash bags and stuffed it in the cavities and put a bead of foam around the perimeter of the “pillows” In weatherization they call it “pillowing” it’s a common practice for air sealing bypasses and it’s very quick and effective.
@@HVACGUYthe plastic bag allows an air seal when foamed around, Mastic would work also. The insulation inside the bag allows for the R-value. It’s extremely effective and very quick. You can use trash bags or Walmart type bags.
Do you estimate jobs like this first or charge for time + materials? What is the tatoo on your right arm? BTW: "Very Impressive" identification of issue plus resolution!
He could have used the torch. Those type of padlocks, many times you can get the combination by feel. Bolt cutters work really well too. I'm just appalled that they have to lock them up to start with.
Hi Im writing from Monterrey Mexico I have a 220v 2 ton Minisplit inverter is 5 years old it RATTLES WHEN ITS TUREN ON can you tell me what could be the issue please...I have only changed the capacitor once but never changed the conntactor.
The only tape that sticks to the foam board is the red tuck tape (it's a tape for dissimilar surfaces), problem how do you get that tape to bond to the floor at the bottom without doing a major clean out of the debrise and dirt in that space. The Mastick is probably the best solution, but I think a 4" putty knife would have been the better tool. It would have been easier to apply and smooth out. It would have a better finish and used a lot less Mastick.
You need a selfie stick with a camera or old phone mounted to better see in those in the hard to reach areas. I am not suggesting for videos only as showing the areas that need cleaning up close may earn you some brownie points with contracts/customers as you can show that or send it in a message. This may also help keep your arm from getting cut up in tighter situations.
Curtis I like how you basically turned the space into a lower air plenom for the open return essentially almost making it a closed air return my only suggestion would be for next time to use 2 inch ap faced polyiso and if that came from home depot I know sika is the brand home depot caries and use they have the 2 inch version. And Lowes has John mannsville 2 inch ap faced polyiso as well.
Nope, the adhesives would eat through the foam! You could use tape with Thermopan return liners, but the s#!+'s crazy expensive, and wouldn't have a decent R value alone and likely sweat. XPS foamboards makes more sense and I probably would have done the same.
@@TheSimba86ugh! That sucks. I have never seen them caged in my area. Hope that's not something I will have to worry about at my house. Always something. 😒
@@mufasah888 some areas are worse than others, they make cages for them, they make covers for the line set to make it harder to cut off, they even make locking service caps because people will huff the refrigerant right out of the unit to get high.
Because male dogs have a tendency to mark their territory pee on the condenser coils themselves which rots them out. Also keeps condenser bandit thieves from stealing the condensers or bad hvac guys from commiting hvac hackory.
The crime buggers must be proific in that area where nothing nor nobody is safe, not even the copper pipes of hvac units. Modern day USA at its best, huh?
Always enjoy the content and ideas of how to fix strange situations and installs. On a lot of videos I notice you don’t clean. I don’t like it either sir. If you vacuumed out that nasty hole first, sealing that would have gone better. Awesome way of dealing with heat leaking into return
Foam in a can is bad it is a mixture of open and closed cell foam which absorbs moisture like a sponge. Which means over time it will rot out the studs and encourage mood growth. What is it with guys who think foam is so great it is the lazy way to do it. And foam on roof rafters is bad too because it blocks the ridge vents so the roof can't breathe properly foam on any exterior area is a no no period.
@@gabrielstern4992 Does Open-Cell Foam absorb moisture or water and cause issues? The building codes recognizes both open and closed-cell foam as meeting the requirements of a true air-barrier. Since most water vapor is transported with air-flow, an air-barrier will eliminate the vast majority of water vapor movement. However, it is essential that adequate R-value or thermal resistance be incorporated to prevent a dew point and condensation on the surface of the foam. Since open-cell foam is more water permeable than closed-cell, once can incorrectly assume that open-cell foam will result in moisture problems. Open-Cell does not wick moisture out of air, or wick water like sponge. Water will only penetrate through the foam with pressure (i.e. submersion, flooding etc.). In fact, in 96 hour water submersion tests, 0.5lb open-cell foam was found to have a water absorption rate of approximately 25% - no more than typical plywood. Further, 0.8lb foam has a water absorption rate of 2.53%, below that of plywood. Open-cell foam has been successfully used for over two decades with nearly a perfect track record. In general, open-cell foam provides excellent cavity insulation in most conditions and climates. phelpsgaskets
Isn’t that an inside room. I don’t see why stealing it would make a difference. It will keep the ac cleaner since all will go through the filter. Unconfuse me.
Its pulling air down from the attic. It should be just pulling air from the conditioned space. By sealing the perimeter of the return, it is now only pulling from the conditioned space. The success is seen in the difference in temperature drops before and after. Think of it like your car using recirc vs outside air, recirc is much cooler and stronger.
You definitely went above and beyond on that one. I hope the tenant/ owner appreciates it. It's obvious that whomever makes/installs those cages has no clue about servicing the unit. You earned your money on this one.
the anti theft/anti maintenance/anti repairs cage.............................................lovely
That Trane serving 20 to life.
Bro, You EARN Your Money!!!!
You need to charge extra for gardening and lock smithing and bumps on your noggin. Say $1,500.00 to start.
Oh by the way add $500 more for house insulation.
And $350 for hair loss.
Sounds good to me
Curtis, you need to charge them extra for the head bump...lol You are really going the extra mile on this one to make the return cavity more efficient.
That place ought to come down to temp way faster now! Should help heating too keeping out what’s probably gonna be colder air in the winter.
Good job Curtis, definitely entertaining, your a soldier when it comes to those crawlspaces.
SOMEBODY IS GOING TO SAVE A LOT OF MONEY,great work.
Oh look, poison summac! Just makes your day. :) Great neighborhood where they even put the AC in a safe. If it ain't nailed down.....
Great job Curtis.
I would have walked away from that disaster
Well Curtis, a job well done, and you may need to carry a Safety Helmet in your tool bag from now on 😉 Au
I had to do the same thing in my MIL house after hurricane Katrina. It was drawing all that hot air from the attic. It got opened up with the gutting of the house and not put back after. A pain, but if you don't do it, it will never work right. If there is a place to bust my head I will find it. That must be a really rough neighborhood to have to cage in the condenser like that, ridiculous. How can it be serviced? Cleaning or any kind of repair, such as the fan motor has to be impossible. They needed to position the unit where the service area faced the opening or design the cage where you can pull it completely off. I tell you, there is nothing I hate worse than a thief. Thanks for sharing, nice haircut, I need one myself.
now we can call you, knot-head! 🤣🤣
I have 5 lumps on my head currently, from bashing into things early in the week. speaker, duct, pipe, stairs and a door. 🥳
Duct seal is good for allot of things. However consider a can of low expanding foam on the next one.
great neighborhood// when they cage ac units..
Hahaha right!
Yup, I see those I just keep on driving lol 😂
Southwest Georgia my boy.
Ghhheeetttoooo😂
Those are the big money jobs
I noticed that you are double jointed getting in that tight return space hahaha.great work curtis 👍
Oh my goodness, you are a warrior my friend. On a side note, I don’t believe Romex is approved for within a plenum.
Also, code requires that junction box to be "accessible". It's now covered, in a plenum space. Uh....
Excellent remedy idea, for that very bizarre "installation".
Great job. I do recommend if you can to carry around canned spray foam for this kind of thing. Also for thermostats too... tons of air leaks behind them.
Dap makes a good latex based one for stuff like this.(Daptex) It's white like caulking, cleans up with soap and water, doesn't have air holes in it, you can press, form, shape, sculpt, paint it after curing. The can be used over and over again if you rinse the straw and nossle in warm water. It's some amazing stuff!
@@ronlovell5374 interesting, I’d like to try that. I’ll look around for
It
Great Job on the return! Those A Coils from the Video looked like Shinola! Just noticing from the Video that one of the door bottoms was sealed with a rolled up Towel or something. That being the return for that room would make me suspicious🤔 Maybe vents are closed too. Thanks for your Video!☺️
Imagine changing a compressor on this unit with that cage haha. Great videos as always
Yeh, that would be rough
The condensor got a taste of freedom....
Nice hair cut. Looking good
I think maybe you need a YOUNG apprentice, perhaps an aspiring gymnast, to crawl into those tight spaces. That looked like a real chore. No doubt you earned your money on that one.
Great job
Great work
Thanks
Curt I hope that’s not your infamous web and bug sweep out brush
It was an old chewed up one. It was all I had
Next time use spray foam. You’d have been out of the plenum in 90 seconds and sealed it up better.
In a confined space like that? Between the propellant and the adhesive/foam mixture, I'd want to read the safety data sheets for the product and think about a minimum of a half-mask respirator with the correct cartridges. Insulation contractors spraying "spray foam" wear Tyvek suits and a respirator for a reason and that's in a fairly open space, not a small confined space. You only have one pair of lungs, so safety first. In my line of work, I handle Ammonia and Gas Chlorine, Muriatic Acid and I'm certified to wear an SCBA and half mask respirator with various cartridges for my protection and I have confined space training. Th exposure from a chemical used in an open space can be entirely different in a small confined area, because the concentration you are exposed to increases dramatically. As the level of exposure increases, so does the level of toxicity.
I've used Great-Stuff and Sika products in confined spaces many times, for crawl spaces, joist bays, under/behind tubs. Off gasing wasn't really an issue because I would apply in small layers, allowing expansion in between, but I did have a can blow up in my face once. The top of the can completely let go off the cylinder. I wasn't wearing safety glasses at the time. Had it in both eyes, mouth, nose, all over forehead and in my hair but not a damn spot on my clothes. Needless to say lesson learned, I will never touch a can without a pro grade pair of safety glasses or goggles on.
@patrickinottawa27 I'm pretty sure they're talking about stuff in a dispensing can or gun, not two part mix pro-grade. Just to substitute the mastic he had to use in the corners with the foam boards, not the entire cavities.
@@ronlovell5374 I'm talking about the spray cans for DIY consumer use. There are many products out there that are designed to be used in a well-ventilated area and are perfectly safe. But you change the environment to a small area with limited air exchange and the concentration of the various chemicals in that product which you are exposed to increases significantly.
Propane, Butane and Isobutane are used as propellants in DIY cans. Then you have the foam and a chemical activator which causes the foam to expand. The chemicals used are toxic during the installation process.
From the Manufacturer (Dupont) for Great Stuff Gaps and Crack Spray Foam in a 12oz Can.
Page 7 of 26 Safety Data Sheet - Exposure control. The odor and irritancy of this material are inadequate to warn of excessive exposure. Lethal concentrations may exist in areas with poor ventilation.
The product contains an asphyxiant which displaces oxygen In a small area, there is enough asphyxiant in the can to reduce oxygen to unsafe levels.
The SDS also recommends protective clothing, eye protection with side sheilds or a full face sheild and chemical resistant gloves. They also recommend a half mask respirator with the appropriate cartridges for vapours and in areas with less than optimal ventillation, supplemental ventilation or a self contained breathing apparatus (SCBA).
During the installation process the chemicals can irritate and/or do permanent damage to your lungs and airway.
This is for their consumer product and the vast majority of consumers are not going to visit their website to get a copy of the SDS and read the 26 pages to understand what they are using before they use the product.
Just because it's in a consumer sized 12oz can, doesn't make the product any safer than what's in the professional version. The consumer version is just more convenient to use. Thankfully, most consumers will use this product in a well ventilated area. The area Curtis was working in was small with limited ventilation and the blower for the furnace was off. In my opinion, spray foam would not have been appropriate to use without significant PPE.
whew, all of that mastic in the return, that house is going to smell great for a few days, haha
Love your videos 🤩
Thanks
We thought you were going to build that customer a new house there for a minute with all that construction, Curtis.
Great stuff installation would have filled those wall cavities. Or sealed around the insulating board after that with it.
Nice work! On the next one put sections of fiberglass batt insulation inside trash bags and stuffed it in the cavities and put a bead of foam around the perimeter of the “pillows” In weatherization they call it “pillowing” it’s a common practice for air sealing bypasses and it’s very quick and effective.
Never heard that, but I have rolled up insulation and stuffed it in there. But, didn’t know about pillowing
@@HVACGUYthe plastic bag allows an air seal when foamed around, Mastic would work also. The insulation inside the bag allows for the R-value. It’s extremely effective and very quick. You can use trash bags or Walmart type bags.
What a PIA!
You are a better man than me I dont think I would have worked in the cage... I would have told them to remove it first
Great fix! Can’t rebuild the house.
I would have turned around and went to my next job
Do you estimate jobs like this first or charge for time + materials?
What is the tatoo on your right arm?
BTW: "Very Impressive" identification of issue plus resolution!
This wasn’t expensive. So, I just did it.
Good stuff. How would you feel about using fire foam instead of mastic?
Nice one, the unit is sucking attic air.....lol
Are people really stealing evaporators in the neighborhood? Crazy guys!
Are people walking off with condensers in this neighborhood?
Probably trying to huff refrigerant.
You needed a hvac crowbar to even start. lol
He could have used the torch. Those type of padlocks, many times you can get the combination by feel. Bolt cutters work really well too. I'm just appalled that they have to lock them up to start with.
Combination locks 🔒 are easy to pick
Hi Im writing from Monterrey Mexico I have a 220v 2 ton Minisplit inverter is 5 years old it RATTLES WHEN ITS TUREN ON can you tell me what could be the issue please...I have only changed the capacitor once but never changed the conntactor.
They were hiding it with the ivy
Many times same work . foam board a lot easier than using ductboard and a fifth the cost.
Curtis, I have to ask what that job ended up costing.
Run the foam horizontally next time. right below the opening. drill holes in bottom side wood and fill with foam. Much much easier. Nice vid
I would have thought some wide insulative tape would have been the answer.
The mastic finish looked horrible....at least tape should have been embedded. This actually was a big job.
The only tape that sticks to the foam board is the red tuck tape (it's a tape for dissimilar surfaces), problem how do you get that tape to bond to the floor at the bottom without doing a major clean out of the debrise and dirt in that space. The Mastick is probably the best solution, but I think a 4" putty knife would have been the better tool. It would have been easier to apply and smooth out. It would have a better finish and used a lot less Mastick.
Good job Curtis! That didn't look like any fun.
You need a selfie stick with a camera or old phone mounted to better see in those in the hard to reach areas. I am not suggesting for videos only as showing the areas that need cleaning up close may earn you some brownie points with contracts/customers as you can show that or send it in a message. This may also help keep your arm from getting cut up in tighter situations.
By the looks of things , I hope you brought some PPE . If you know what I mean .
This must be a high crime area to have to build cages with locks over the AC units .
I would have built a box to the filter grille and ran a flex duct to the box and not messed with all that. But to each their own, it works.
i would have used tuck tape and spray foam on bottoms
Does that discharge (high pressure) line act like a low grade heating element, should it be insulated?
No, it’s just a few degrees above outdoor temp
@@HVACGUY I know, but still on a hot day it is a 100 degree piece of copper rod in return path, it has to have some effect, though I agree small.
I'd imagine that the AC didn't turn off from May to November.
Curtis I like how you basically turned the space into a lower air plenom for the open return essentially almost making it a closed air return my only suggestion would be for next time to use 2 inch ap faced polyiso and if that came from home depot I know sika is the brand home depot caries and use they have the 2 inch version.
And Lowes has John mannsville 2 inch ap faced polyiso as well.
How do you have a lock without a key that crazy. I hope you charge extra for that.
Lordy..
Hey Guy, where'd you get that little Tee for your pressure probe?
That’s an Appion charging tee
just curious would butyl tape be faster?
Nope, the adhesives would eat through the foam! You could use tape with Thermopan return liners, but the s#!+'s crazy expensive, and wouldn't have a decent R value alone and likely sweat. XPS foamboards makes more sense and I probably would have done the same.
@@ronlovell5374 I agree, what if it the foam had mylar
in houston wiring in a ducting is illegal.. learned on home inspection. fire hazord
If i had to lock my unit up like that ID MOVE!!!!
I would've walked away.
Low expand foam.
Fresh haircut 😂😂😂👍👍👍
to be fair combo locks are very easy locks to circumvent.
Are you serious!!!! What a mess. I think I would have taped the edges instead of using the air seal.
Why build a dog cage around the heat pump? I'm not sure I understand the purpose. 🤔🤷♀️. Sure makes it extremely hard to service, that's for sure!
because people steal them and haul them off to scrap them for drug money
@@TheSimba86ugh! That sucks. I have never seen them caged in my area. Hope that's not something I will have to worry about at my house. Always something. 😒
@@mufasah888 some areas are worse than others, they make cages for them, they make covers for the line set to make it harder to cut off, they even make locking service caps because people will huff the refrigerant right out of the unit to get high.
Because male dogs have a tendency to mark their territory pee on the condenser coils themselves which rots them out.
Also keeps condenser bandit thieves from stealing the condensers or bad hvac guys from commiting hvac hackory.
Only way to do it slopp it on!
Safe aire would sell them a new unit for only like 15,000. 😂
I try to move a rafter with my head and the rafter won.
Pshh would have made them remove that cage 1st.
LockPickingLawyer UA-cam Channel could have Picked that Lock in 10-seconds. This Master Combination Lock is one of the Worst Locks for Security. 🤪👎
Looks like an additional $100 PITA fee for this job.
The crime buggers must be proific in that area where nothing nor nobody is safe, not even the copper pipes of hvac units. Modern day USA at its best, huh?
Crime, what crime? Condenser got 5years for non cooling?
Always enjoy the content and ideas of how to fix strange situations and installs. On a lot of videos I notice you don’t clean. I don’t like it either sir. If you vacuumed out that nasty hole first, sealing that would have gone better. Awesome way of dealing with heat leaking into return
Your real problem is that coil, look at 12:30. Coil is gross and impacted. Quote a coil cleaning jeez
It wasn’t as bad as that looks. But, you’re right it needs cleaning.
They don’t make it easy
I can't believe u did that .I would've told the home owner go find a handyman to insulate that space
Next time just buy foam. You just need to foam above filling where the 2x4 should have been Could of done the same with your material you purchased.
Foam in a can is bad it is a mixture of open and closed cell foam which absorbs moisture like a sponge.
Which means over time it will rot out the studs and encourage mood growth.
What is it with guys who think foam is so great it is the lazy way to do it.
And foam on roof rafters is bad too because it blocks the ridge vents so the roof can't breathe properly foam on any exterior area is a no no period.
@@gabrielstern4992 Does Open-Cell Foam absorb moisture or water and cause issues?
The building codes recognizes both open and closed-cell foam as meeting the requirements of a true air-barrier. Since most water vapor is transported with air-flow, an air-barrier will eliminate the vast majority of water vapor movement. However, it is essential that adequate R-value or thermal resistance be incorporated to prevent a dew point and condensation on the surface of the foam. Since open-cell foam is more water permeable than closed-cell, once can incorrectly assume that open-cell foam will result in moisture problems. Open-Cell does not wick moisture out of air, or wick water like sponge. Water will only penetrate through the foam with pressure (i.e. submersion, flooding etc.). In fact, in 96 hour water submersion tests, 0.5lb open-cell foam was found to have a water absorption rate of approximately 25% - no more than typical plywood. Further, 0.8lb foam has a water absorption rate of 2.53%, below that of plywood. Open-cell foam has been successfully used for over two decades with nearly a perfect track record. In general, open-cell foam provides excellent cavity insulation in most conditions and climates. phelpsgaskets
I would of left. No room to work. Terrible you smacked your head like that. What a disaster!
Outstiggy standing.
You definitely work in some shady neighborhoods.
Isn’t that an inside room. I don’t see why stealing it would make a difference. It will keep the ac cleaner since all will go through the filter. Unconfuse me.
Its pulling air down from the attic. It should be just pulling air from the conditioned space. By sealing the perimeter of the return, it is now only pulling from the conditioned space. The success is seen in the difference in temperature drops before and after. Think of it like your car using recirc vs outside air, recirc is much cooler and stronger.
@@kevinwalker4623 I'm not convinced. There would be a top plate before attic air right?
Man you need a can of spray foam😂😂