@@fynn1202 if it was self tapping it would have a divot on one side of the tip and it doesn't. My guess is like the guy above said it's really the bit he used
That's what I was thinking. It's not meant to be impenetrable. It's meant to stop you from going deeper by telling you, hey there's something back here.😂
@@ihateeverything3972 you can definitely feel metal vs wood I felt a nail in a 2x4 and you definitely can push through but you gotta be like fuck it n send it
As an apprentice I cut an outlet into a pocket door. Found out at the end of the day when I went in the bathroom and couldn't close the pocket door that I was not aware of. Now they have a mini doggie door
@@peli71 I have never seen a carpenter with a metal detector! Edit: it seems many misunderstood what I wanted to say - I have never seen a carpenter using a metal detector for every screw he's putting in the floor. The idea of this video, as I understand it, is to drill the joists to run electrical cables instead of using the metal plates, as the other trades, those who will install the floor boards without doubt they will not check what is underneath. This video it's not about hanging pictures.
Just looking at it, it doessn't appear to slow down at all when it hits the steel plate. He would be pushing quite firmly anyway to keep the screwdriver engaged with the screw head. Clearly, it's something to watch out for.
With a descent impact driver, you're not going to feel a difference. You have very much not torque feedback on the wrist. You can hear from the change in sound, depending how well you know your impact driver
Those are called “nail plates” and were designed before air nailers and drywall screws were commonly used. And if you use them with drywall, it will walk the screw up through the drywall and will not pierce the plate.
Right, and what’s stoping the homeowner from trying to mount something with screws and doing the same. I guess you think those plates are only to save the tradesperson.
wouldn't work that way on drywall. You would just make a hole but the screw would never catch on. Even with that wood you would have to be giving it some serious force to get it to bite into the metal like that. Great video thought to show that it's possible depending on the substrate
Thank you, exactly correct. The intended purpose is under drywall. If you are using some non-conventional wall covering then you need to have some situational awareness.
Past I think his point is to not use an impact driver, which is correct. On the other hand, I'm going to keep using my impact driver cuz I'm not so stupid that I can't tell what I'm going through Steel.
It's nice that your mock-up actually included chipboard, as would be the case in a real installation. Despite the steel being quite thick, I think the screw went through so easily because it was already threaded into the chipboard, so the mechanical advantage of the thread enabled much more force to be applied just by turning the screw, than you could apply if you were attempting to drive the screw directly into the steel by applying downward force. I suppose the moral of the story is that cables are safer when you run them through holes in the neutral-axis of joists, which maintains a lot more structural integrity of the timber too.
@@ConorNoakes This. Despite ol' norm above and various comments of the same ilk it IS reasonably easy to get through steel like that with a decent woodscrew and impact.
I own a shade sales and service company. I am impressed with modern screws and impact drivers. Non self tapping screws are put right through metal studs and bracket plates with ease
I LOVE framing up walls with my impact driver! No hammering no nails, no shaking the other side of the structure loose when you're hammering on this side. Just screw it all together with the impact driver and t25 construction screws and it pulls together tight and stays that way more or less forever
So not for nothing but, those dotted lines on that supposed safety plate, in between those dotted lines, the thickness of the metal should be thicker than 1/16" or thicker so the screw won't go through it ! , the screw would snap before it went through !
Back in 05 I was 18 and installing residential cabinets. I was screwing the lower sink cab to the wall and went right through one of those plates puncturing a water line 🤦♂️
I once drilled a screw through timber into a steel frame, and my finger was on the other side so it went through my finger too. Modern cordless impacts are insanely quick.
so long as you're not intentionally trying to drive through a nail plate, you will meet resistance. I tend to take pictures of the wire and framing before placing drywall.
the grip of that wood screw and the particle board help drive the screw forward, however if that was drywall and a drywall screw (exactly what you would expected for that situation) the screw would almost certainly strip out and the drywall guy would try 12 inches higher
Well most people don't use impact drivers when they're putting screws into the wall at first, not to mention the fact you would obviously know when you hit it and would stop
This is why it would be beneficial if there was a standard for where the wires are. In europe you don’t drill in the concrete directly above or below a switch or wall outlet because that is where the conduits are. Most buildings will have a wiring plan on the blueprints with the directions the wire goes.
If that was sheetrock like a normal construction it would easily strip out the drywall before having a enough force to start going through the protective plate before you knew something was wrong. The plywood is not a fair comparisons that being said impact drivers are awesome and with the right kind of screw like a self taper they can easily go into steel.
Bingo. The plywood is giving him a hundred pounds of force right on the top of that screw, forcing it thru. It it was bare or drywall over that there’s no way he could do it without realizing something was very very wrong
@@wantapgt Except this is a UK channel and they are required for flooring. That said most people only notch for piping and drill the centre line of the joist for cable.
Not surprised but if you're experienced enough you'd keep wire paths in mind when drilling. But nail plates are there to help resist fasteners from getting through. It's not fastener proof. Also drilling through plywood gives the screw a low of pressure to push through the plate. Things change some when it's sheet rock.
I have a story!!! I was roughing in a demod house, I ran wire into the bathroom that they laid the studs sideways, i used an existing hole to get my wire down and stuck the side of a gem box on the side i was working on, I look to the other side... some electrician probably 40 years ago put one there when he ran his wire...gave me a little wholesome feeling knowing we both had the best intentions for that wire
I'm not saying that sheetrock hangers don't hit thjngs they're not supposed to on occasion, but professional drywallers don't use impacts to hang sheetrock. Also, put the wires in the middle of the stud like you're supposed to and this wouldn't happen. Also, that's 3/4 subfloor. Drywall wouldn't pull the screw through the plate like that. I can't think of a situation that would pass code in normal construction where you'd be notching the top of a floor joist like that and running a wire through it. In that case, the electrician f'ed up.
That's a good tip, I use a small masonry bit to find a stud. In the UK they use plastic wire covers in plaster so the noise changes when you hit it, but a screw would go right through it...usually easy to work out where cables are though, as for plumbing pipes - us plumbers put them anywhere 😂
Yeah just put your cables through the joists. Theres these things called flat wood bits/hole cutters/speed bits and they really do work when putting holes through wood. Cant explain how they do it though, its quite magical
Always DRILL through the joist/stud. Never notch unless there is no other way and the resulting load diminishment is acceptable for the span and loads. The notch reduces the strength of your joist/rafter/stud to the distance between the notch base and the opposing side. Any good inspector will nail you for that one!
You can cut away up to 40% of the stud thickness before reinforcement is mandatory. Still, you want to keep your wire running as close to center as possible. The NEC requires at least 1 1/4" from the surface to the edge of the hole or a nailplate is required. Generally you do not want to be cutting into or through engineered members without the approval of an engineer.
That's why you are supposed to STOP once you feel the resistance, as well as the sub-floor material RISE UP. Also, drill through the floor joist at least half way or 2 inches from the nailing surface, Do Not Notch the joists.
In my country, where we almost always make houses of bricks, cables must go straight vertically from sockets and switches and horizontally 20cm from the ceiling, no other way so you always know where the cables are.
@@boobye6305 Speaking from experience. And really conjecture. Someone who uses an impact daily doesn't count every dang screw. Take it anecdotally, instead of literally.
I worked with an impact driver nearly every day for 10 years. I can say with absolute confidence that yes, you can hit material that will freaking stop an impact driver.
I feel like those plates would be a good idea if you're building a rental property. Not everyone has any kind of construction/home decorating skill, so I wouldn't trust them to not nail straight through a wire.
It’s required by code to have them if your wire is within an 1-1/4” from the edge of the stud. Not sure about plumbers but I imagine it’s the same rule as drywall screws are 1-1/4” long. You will definitely know if you hit one. You really have to try to send it through. It’s solid steel.
That is why when wiring either the walls or the floor, you drill a hole in the middle of the joists and run your wires trough that hole.. That way the wires are far from the reach of the screws.
First off in many areas it is illegal to run wires like that. I checked around and by most code the wire must be near center or a certain depth to prevent that. In my city if you run a wire like that expect a massive fine and likely to lose license. On top of that you will have to pay to rewire and to pay to have new studs/boards put in.
I did that when I was doing drywall at an apartment complex drilled right through the plate into a water pipe thankfully there was no running water yet
Once in a project I saw the landlord mapping All the cables pipes Water foundation ext.. ( He did not let the electric guy run cables near the doors or windows )
There's a reason my jurisdiction has a code requirement the wires have to be set back a certain distance in the stud (about midway on a 2x4) and these plates over the penetration. Framer's won't be framing over drywall, and the dinky black drywall screws can't punch through a 16ga plate. We now have plates that cover the stud, and half an inch on either side (those random side nicks.)
Nobody puts the wires this close to the edge of a 2x4. They're usually in the middle. And also, these are use with Gypse, the screw would never poke the steel because gypse would let go showing something hard is behind.
First, drill for wires and plumbing. No notches. Second, plates are for mostly for drywall side of things. And if they are used for plywood side you should still know the resistance and stop. And then you should also be aware of wiring and plumbing as you put up sheathing or drywall.
The good thing about this is you normally don't put wood panels on the inside. If there was drywall the screw would have stopped on the steel plate. With that said avoid notching around cabinets.
Presumably you'd typically be aiming for a stud behind drywall. Listen to how easily the driver runs screws through that OSB. If the impact is ratcheting that hard, it's time to let go of the trigger.
Most of the time the screw tip cant get any bite to start going through the plate. And it strips out the wood/sheetrock. But the biggest show stopper is that the head of the screw will strip out before you get very far.
These are still amazing for drywall only reason you would have that plywood which is giving it the bite to push through is either exterior stud on the outside notch and why would you do that or floor joists notched on the top instead of bottom and again why would you do that chances are if there is plywood going on which you would need in order to go through this plates electrical is going on after the plywood not before
It's best, and usually mandated that wires run through the center of a stud, likewise screws aren't supposed to be long enough to reach the center. The plates exist inform that there's something behind the plate. It's all code to minimize electrical fires, which cause the grand majority of fires in general.
They are more for sheathing/siding nails or sheet rock screws. If I go get my hilti and drive a hardened pin into it that would go through also but that’s not where it’s supposed to be going.
I hang kitchen cabinets all the time. I use a Milwaukee 12v Screw gun (500RPM) not an impact driver specifically because people do this notch and cover with a nail guard plate all the time. Too easy to punch through. And yes drill the hole in the middle of the stud, notches also compromise the structural integrity of the 2x4 so much more than a centered hole.
That’s why …. 1. You never notch for wires 2. You use screw’s three times the thickness of the drywall 1/2” drywall 1-1/2” screws that way you only penetrate 1” of the stud….
That’s why you should always work on live wires to get an instant visual, acoustic and haptic feedback if you hit the wire 👍🏻
Username checks out 👍🏼
😂
😂😂😂⚡⚡⚡
It does check out, it reads "Number expert". Now, whether it's number 1, 2 or another number is a different discussion
Это совет для барбекю?
The fact he was able to drive a Philips screw through that plate is the most impressive part of this video
Makita
@@MxrtalDemxn or just light enough gauge of metal 😂
It was a self drilling screw.
dewalt exact fit torque phillips 02. no slip out while driving it into said plate.
@@fynn1202 if it was self tapping it would have a divot on one side of the tip and it doesn't. My guess is like the guy above said it's really the bit he used
Love when i feel steel and i just press harder and keep drilling
Yeah I think if you're aware you'll notice what's up b4 you ruin your work.
Not much can stop these new impacts, but the operator can.
That's what I was thinking. It's not meant to be impenetrable. It's meant to stop you from going deeper by telling you, hey there's something back here.😂
Facts lmao they aren’t drill proof just let you know what your going through
@@ihateeverything3972 you can definitely feel metal vs wood
I felt a nail in a 2x4 and you definitely can push through but you gotta be like fuck it n send it
Hell yeah! Whatever happens it's gonna be the electricians problem. I'm just trying to do my thing, you know! Lol
As an apprentice, there was a time in which I didnt know nail plates existed and just thought i hit a knot, and then...
Whoopsie Daise, but now you know.
Lmfao man this stud is hard as fuck !
What’s that smell and why are the lights out in here now ?
Pif paf pouf, pas de fifelouf as we say in walloon french lol
That's a spicy stud
As an apprentice I cut an outlet into a pocket door. Found out at the end of the day when I went in the bathroom and couldn't close the pocket door that I was not aware of. Now they have a mini doggie door
This is a good video, and shows why it's best to drill through joists rather than notching them.
Drilling in the center is preferred as it minimize the structural impact on the joist.
Drilling through joists is mandatory where I am. I still worry about how that will impact the structural integrity of the joists.
No it’s better to use a metal/current detector before drilling…..
@@peli71 I have never seen a carpenter with a metal detector!
Edit: it seems many misunderstood what I wanted to say - I have never seen a carpenter using a metal detector for every screw he's putting in the floor. The idea of this video, as I understand it, is to drill the joists to run electrical cables instead of using the metal plates, as the other trades, those who will install the floor boards without doubt they will not check what is underneath. This video it's not about hanging pictures.
That screw would still reach the cables.
Thing is, you'd notice a massive increase in resistance which should tell any competent person to stop.
Just looking at it, it doessn't appear to slow down at all when it hits the steel plate. He would be pushing quite firmly anyway to keep the screwdriver engaged with the screw head. Clearly, it's something to watch out for.
No. Just a knot in 2x4. Push til you feel air on the other side
Some 2x4s pretty hard. Plus deeper in the wood harder it gets
Competent being the operative word.
With a descent impact driver, you're not going to feel a difference. You have very much not torque feedback on the wrist. You can hear from the change in sound, depending how well you know your impact driver
When brute force tells u there's something wrong & you don't care
I love when drywall guys drill through my stud plates in order to check if the water is on. (I'm a plumber)
Amen
You don't have to tell us you're a plumber dude, or maybe that's because I'm a sculpt plumber.
Also when they use impact drivers rather that the screw guns that they normally do.
Must be a shitty job
I never seen a drywaller drill nothing in my life
Those are called “nail plates” and were designed before air nailers and drywall screws were commonly used. And if you use them with drywall, it will walk the screw up through the drywall and will not pierce the plate.
Ya most people aren't screwing osb to the wall. It would have spun in drywall
Exactly what I was thinking. Total 🧢
@@magicalphonesCom Tech enters the chat with a 4x8 fire rated back board to mount to the wall for equipment. 😂
He's also using decking screws.
Right, and what’s stoping the homeowner from trying to mount something with screws and doing the same. I guess you think those plates are only to save the tradesperson.
wouldn't work that way on drywall. You would just make a hole but the screw would never catch on. Even with that wood you would have to be giving it some serious force to get it to bite into the metal like that. Great video thought to show that it's possible depending on the substrate
Thank you, exactly correct. The intended purpose is under drywall. If you are using some non-conventional wall covering then you need to have some situational awareness.
Scrolled to find this before saying it myself.
Thanks for posting that qualification. The video made me paranoid but then I realized you’re absolutely correct! That is a relief!
Cannot confirm. This IS easily done without care despite what UA-cam experts think.
Past I think his point is to not use an impact driver, which is correct. On the other hand, I'm going to keep using my impact driver cuz I'm not so stupid that I can't tell what I'm going through Steel.
I find gas lines the tuffest, but I'm no quitter.
It's nice that your mock-up actually included chipboard, as would be the case in a real installation.
Despite the steel being quite thick, I think the screw went through so easily because it was already threaded into the chipboard, so the mechanical advantage of the thread enabled much more force to be applied just by turning the screw, than you could apply if you were attempting to drive the screw directly into the steel by applying downward force. I suppose the moral of the story is that cables are safer when you run them through holes in the neutral-axis of joists, which maintains a lot more structural integrity of the timber too.
It’s fairly easy to drive a decent woodscrew through thin sheet metal with an impact driver, even without it all being clamped, etc.
Ì I
Also of course he’s running the screw through chipboard or whatever otherwise he’d see the plate and cables would he not ?
I have hit those metal plates (now they are mandatory) with drywall screws and they stopped immediately and barely scratched the metal.
@@ConorNoakes
This. Despite ol' norm above and various comments of the same ilk it IS reasonably easy to get through steel like that with a decent woodscrew and impact.
I own a shade sales and service company. I am impressed with modern screws and impact drivers. Non self tapping screws are put right through metal studs and bracket plates with ease
When you hit a 16ga nail plate you know it.
...and your little pointy screw will get very blunt, very hot, and will leave scratch marks on the 16ga plate specifically made to stop screws.
Yeah they deff know, they just don't care.
Now when you’re running a 4” screw through 4 layers of 3/4” engineered plywood
I go with a thinner plate but make sure to jump my black wires through it. drywallers will pay attention damnit.
You would have to be pushing pretty damn hard to get through that plate with a wood screw. Very misleading video
Looking at how the plate bends, my guy put his whole sole into that drive.
He was using his foot? 😂😂😂
He certainly proved that they aren't idiot proof. He even used an actual idiot for the test.
Dat perfect loop edit thou is the REAL safety concern; You're killing it! :D
Thanks for the replay I def would’ve missed it otherwise
No worries
Only works for plasterboard, it's soft enough where there screw will only dance on the metal.
I LOVE framing up walls with my impact driver! No hammering no nails, no shaking the other side of the structure loose when you're hammering on this side. Just screw it all together with the impact driver and t25 construction screws and it pulls together tight and stays that way more or less forever
16 years and never drilled thru a strike plate.
That you know of
Clearly you’re doing something wrong.
Because you aren't making UA-cam videos
Took about a year before it leaked enough to flood the bottom of my home..,,
*clap clap clap*
So not for nothing but, those dotted lines on that supposed safety plate, in between those dotted lines, the thickness of the metal should be thicker than 1/16" or thicker so the screw won't go through it ! , the screw would snap before it went through !
that's why you have to pay attention and feel what you're doing, not just forcefully drive the fastener in
josè doesnt get paid to care, they also get away with being drunk at work cuz its their heritage and that makes it ok
@@narmale you got some deep-seeded racism in you huh?
@@handleunavailable hardly, the truth isn't racist, its just what it is
@@narmale sure thing bud.
@@narmale Casual racism.
Nice.
Back in 05 I was 18 and installing residential cabinets. I was screwing the lower sink cab to the wall and went right through one of those plates puncturing a water line 🤦♂️
Man delete this post before an inspector sees and starts making us use 3 nail plates
😂
Nah... Use these new 1/4" thick plates! 🤣
Force us too buy carbide or better yet depleted uranium ones
I once drilled a screw through timber into a steel frame, and my finger was on the other side so it went through my finger too. Modern cordless impacts are insanely quick.
That's why you pay extra for hardend striker plates.
Yeah right
well wouldnt there be drywall over that in most cases? so the screw will just bore out the hole before penetrating the metal
Don't bring logic into this!
so long as you're not intentionally trying to drive through a nail plate, you will meet resistance. I tend to take pictures of the wire and framing before placing drywall.
Yep, I do electric too. I went to that Saturday Seminar. I am a General Contractor.
the grip of that wood screw and the particle board help drive the screw forward, however if that was drywall and a drywall screw (exactly what you would expected for that situation) the screw would almost certainly strip out and the drywall guy would try 12 inches higher
Well most people don't use impact drivers when they're putting screws into the wall at first, not to mention the fact you would obviously know when you hit it and would stop
I guess these plates work for plaster board because you haven't got a hard material driving the screw in.
same thing I was thinking just don't use them for floors where there will be plywood giving an advantage
This is why it would be beneficial if there was a standard for where the wires are. In europe you don’t drill in the concrete directly above or below a switch or wall outlet because that is where the conduits are. Most buildings will have a wiring plan on the blueprints with the directions the wire goes.
If that was sheetrock like a normal construction it would easily strip out the drywall before having a enough force to start going through the protective plate before you knew something was wrong. The plywood is not a fair comparisons that being said impact drivers are awesome and with the right kind of screw like a self taper they can easily go into steel.
Bingo. The plywood is giving him a hundred pounds of force right on the top of that screw, forcing it thru. It it was bare or drywall over that there’s no way he could do it without realizing something was very very wrong
@@wantapgt Except this is a UK channel and they are required for flooring. That said most people only notch for piping and drill the centre line of the joist for cable.
I fit these at work and plasterers constantly drill them. They give the boards a fantastic fixing
Good vid but i think the point of those metal plates is whoevers drilling will feel their drilling into metal before they go all the way through
The point of this video is to demonstrate it can still happen.
Big 👏🏻 for the screws too. Some good work there
Thats why they are called NAIL PLATES not screw plates..... they will deflect a nail....
Kick plates
@@RigoDayu yeah... kick plates go on the bottom of a door... NAIL PLATES are what is in the video....
Not surprised but if you're experienced enough you'd keep wire paths in mind when drilling. But nail plates are there to help resist fasteners from getting through. It's not fastener proof.
Also drilling through plywood gives the screw a low of pressure to push through the plate. Things change some when it's sheet rock.
Nothing can stop an impact when there is a gorilla pressing from the top
Called a nail plate for a reason not a screw plate🤣
The old black gem box plates that u find when demoing houses, can't tap those if ur life depended on it
Bed frame is extremely hard metal and even with a drill, hard to drill through.
I have a story!!! I was roughing in a demod house, I ran wire into the bathroom that they laid the studs sideways, i used an existing hole to get my wire down and stuck the side of a gem box on the side i was working on, I look to the other side... some electrician probably 40 years ago put one there when he ran his wire...gave me a little wholesome feeling knowing we both had the best intentions for that wire
I'm not saying that sheetrock hangers don't hit thjngs they're not supposed to on occasion, but professional drywallers don't use impacts to hang sheetrock. Also, put the wires in the middle of the stud like you're supposed to and this wouldn't happen.
Also, that's 3/4 subfloor. Drywall wouldn't pull the screw through the plate like that. I can't think of a situation that would pass code in normal construction where you'd be notching the top of a floor joist like that and running a wire through it. In that case, the electrician f'ed up.
This is why I predrill. You'll feel the metal using a small wood drill bit vs soft pine/drywall.
You ain't predrilling 10,000 screws to sheet an entire house.... lol
Nobody predrills drywall screws. There's no point. That actually makes the drywall weaker, and the stuff is already weak enough.
or use drywall instead of osb, the screw wont have any grip on the drywall and just spins to the side.
That's a good tip, I use a small masonry bit to find a stud. In the UK they use plastic wire covers in plaster so the noise changes when you hit it, but a screw would go right through it...usually easy to work out where cables are though, as for plumbing pipes - us plumbers put them anywhere 😂
@johndough4507 you would need to you know where they are when you're sheeting
Yeah just put your cables through the joists. Theres these things called flat wood bits/hole cutters/speed bits and they really do work when putting holes through wood. Cant explain how they do it though, its quite magical
Always DRILL through the joist/stud. Never notch unless there is no other way and the resulting load diminishment is acceptable for the span and loads. The notch reduces the strength of your joist/rafter/stud to the distance between the notch base and the opposing side. Any good inspector will nail you for that one!
You can cut away up to 40% of the stud thickness before reinforcement is mandatory. Still, you want to keep your wire running as close to center as possible. The NEC requires at least 1 1/4" from the surface to the edge of the hole or a nailplate is required. Generally you do not want to be cutting into or through engineered members without the approval of an engineer.
Try stainless steel plates from scrap pieces
That's why you are supposed to STOP once you feel the resistance, as well as the sub-floor material RISE UP. Also, drill through the floor joist at least half way or 2 inches from the nailing surface, Do Not Notch the joists.
In my country, where we almost always make houses of bricks, cables must go straight vertically from sockets and switches and horizontally 20cm from the ceiling, no other way so you always know where the cables are.
the floor is the ceiling of the room below
@BST JUNKIE yea legitimately
@BST JUNKIE yea I was joking. Saying they only put wires in the ceiling not the floor 😂
@BST JUNKIE yea I know, what the F that got to do regarding a strike plate in the floor? 😂😂
@BST JUNKIE no zoning for a floor
As a drywaller I can confirm this!
I'm impressed an electrician knows how to use a hammer...
I’m impressed you could spell electrician.
Hammer! I got a bag full of hammers!
**Pulls out many tools that are not hammers.**
It's a Klein hammer
Really!? Don't you know that's our most used bit of kit we smash shit out of everything and walk away you know the crack
Their expertise stops at using a broom.
I almost shot coffee out of my nose. Had to watch it twice after I cleaned my phone.
Should've used an Adamantium plate
Very true, I have Makita as well and the darn thing won't quit
Caption: can anything stop a impact driver
Me: a dead battery
Try the Makita TD002g. Thing runs thousands of 6" lags on one or two 2.5 amp batteries.
@@Mushroomuu stop lying
@@boobye6305 Speaking from experience. And really conjecture. Someone who uses an impact daily doesn't count every dang screw. Take it anecdotally, instead of literally.
Thanks for pointing out you can mess stuff up with determination
Not very good that SafePlate. Or is it the fact the impact driver delivers a lot of Nm toque? I am impressed by the screw not snapping.
Usually we mark those out as a place not to shoot or screw but the plates are more for trim nails than screws and 16 penny or 8 penny nails
Can we fix it?
No, it's forked!
I worked with an impact driver nearly every day for 10 years. I can say with absolute confidence that yes, you can hit material that will freaking stop an impact driver.
Hence the name “Nail Plate” 😆
eXactly
That plate is generally meant to be behind drywall, where we'll just spin.
Yea, intelligence! Once you.feel resistance, f-ing stop
Why does every part of my dark soul relate with this so well?!
I feel like those plates would be a good idea if you're building a rental property. Not everyone has any kind of construction/home decorating skill, so I wouldn't trust them to not nail straight through a wire.
It’s required by code to have them if your wire is within an 1-1/4” from the edge of the stud. Not sure about plumbers but I imagine it’s the same rule as drywall screws are 1-1/4” long. You will definitely know if you hit one. You really have to try to send it through. It’s solid steel.
так дети, что мы узнали из этого ролика?...
That plate is meant to stop sheet rockers using sheet rock screws who are screwing into wood not steel. The difference is more than noticeable.
wood did all the work try that with drywall
Im just impressed the bit didnt slip
Found many a cable like that...
That is why when wiring either the walls or the floor, you drill a hole in the middle of the joists and run your wires trough that hole.. That way the wires are far from the reach of the screws.
Why does it have two drill spots? The 1st time trying to drill didnt work i guess?
Baby driver: Hold my headphones
First off in many areas it is illegal to run wires like that. I checked around and by most code the wire must be near center or a certain depth to prevent that. In my city if you run a wire like that expect a massive fine and likely to lose license. On top of that you will have to pay to rewire and to pay to have new studs/boards put in.
I did that when I was doing drywall at an apartment complex drilled right through the plate into a water pipe thankfully there was no running water yet
That plate is made out of very soft steel. Shouldn’t be able to go the it with a screw impact or not.
You can do that running the screw through the three quarter OSB first but you can’t running through drywall first
Once in a project I saw the landlord mapping All the cables pipes Water foundation ext.. ( He did not let the electric guy run cables near the doors or windows )
There's a reason my jurisdiction has a code requirement the wires have to be set back a certain distance in the stud (about midway on a 2x4) and these plates over the penetration. Framer's won't be framing over drywall, and the dinky black drywall screws can't punch through a 16ga plate. We now have plates that cover the stud, and half an inch on either side (those random side nicks.)
Nobody puts the wires this close to the edge of a 2x4. They're usually in the middle. And also, these are use with Gypse, the screw would never poke the steel because gypse would let go showing something hard is behind.
That's why the chucks, of proper wood working drills, have torque limiters.
First, drill for wires and plumbing. No notches. Second, plates are for mostly for drywall side of things. And if they are used for plywood side you should still know the resistance and stop. And then you should also be aware of wiring and plumbing as you put up sheathing or drywall.
I always use self tapping drywall screws.
For one thing you need to drill a hole in the center of your 2x4s and then plate the area over the hole
The good thing about this is you normally don't put wood panels on the inside. If there was drywall the screw would have stopped on the steel plate. With that said avoid notching around cabinets.
Ya but, Who flips there hammer?
Your fired...lol
Presumably you'd typically be aiming for a stud behind drywall. Listen to how easily the driver runs screws through that OSB. If the impact is ratcheting that hard, it's time to let go of the trigger.
That's for grandma when she hangs a picture
Most of the time the screw tip cant get any bite to start going through the plate. And it strips out the wood/sheetrock.
But the biggest show stopper is that the head of the screw will strip out before you get very far.
The plate’s job is to give warning that there’s a wiring/conduit/pipe underneath. More like red cones as compared to side rails.
I've never given this a single thought until this video but il not forget it
These are still amazing for drywall only reason you would have that plywood which is giving it the bite to push through is either exterior stud on the outside notch and why would you do that or floor joists notched on the top instead of bottom and again why would you do that chances are if there is plywood going on which you would need in order to go through this plates electrical is going on after the plywood not before
It's best, and usually mandated that wires run through the center of a stud, likewise screws aren't supposed to be long enough to reach the center. The plates exist inform that there's something behind the plate.
It's all code to minimize electrical fires, which cause the grand majority of fires in general.
It will happen every time you use a impact switch to reqular drill and dial down power,this is a great video by this guy .
That's why wire paths are in the code, so you know where" not" to drive or drill
The way that plate bent when the screw came in contact with it shows he was probably sitting on that impact driver to get the screw through it!!!
The point of the stud stopper is to feel you hit something and stop
They are more for sheathing/siding nails or sheet rock screws. If I go get my hilti and drive a hardened pin into it that would go through also but that’s not where it’s supposed to be going.
I hang kitchen cabinets all the time. I use a Milwaukee 12v Screw gun (500RPM) not an impact driver specifically because people do this notch and cover with a nail guard plate all the time. Too easy to punch through. And yes drill the hole in the middle of the stud, notches also compromise the structural integrity of the 2x4 so much more than a centered hole.
Glad to see Doncaster cables, only the best will do.
That’s why ….
1. You never notch for wires
2. You use screw’s three times the thickness of the drywall 1/2” drywall 1-1/2” screws that way you only penetrate 1” of the stud….
always mark water or electric etc hidden on the board before fixing /sheeting pro tip