I'm just a person who like street photography prefably night photography. Not a professional. Your no filter + processing photos gives me satisfying results. So, I don't need one. I should further enhance my skills about processing. Thank you for explaining.
19:51 Astrophotography is also night photography. With my set up, to get spot stars I can't expose for more than 10 seconds. If I were to use one of these filters, I assume that the added stop would meant hat I'd get star trails.
That is actually not the case. Technically, you get less exposure, like with any other filter, but only if you look at the whole scene and evaluate it based on the percentage gray after averaging all the pixels. This is what happens in traditional metering when you talk about stops. However, looking at it that way does not make sense. The filter is supposed to cut out light reflected from the clouds, i.e., light that you do not want because it is not coming from the subject you are trying to photograph-most likely the stars. Imagine you shine light into the camera with a flashlight while taking the shot. Technically, you now need less time to get the same exposure because there is more light hitting the sensor, but it doesn’t help you because the light does not come from something that you want to photograph. If you now have a filter that cuts out only the wavelength of the flashlight and nothing else, it makes it easier to actually see your subject even though, technically, the exposure is lower.
i think this is more suitable in an astrophotography environment, because light pollution is literally the most important factor there. lp-filters do cut out 1/2-2/3 stops of light so the filtered spectrum has to match the situation at location for it to be a profitable solution.
I too use these for astrophotography, have you found a suitable kelvin that works good with filter? I’ve been shooting from 3700-4200 but wondering what you use Doublejay?
It does not make sense to talk about stops of light when we are only interested in specific wavelengths and only cut out particular ones that we do not want. E.g. If I want to shoot something blue, I do not lose exposure with a filter that cuts out red.
It’s wild how little objective analyses are available on the optics of these filters. I’m wondering if these filters contain quarterwave plates. You can observe a similar effect with inverted circular polarisation filters. The larger question is wtf their definition is of light pollution. We need to find out what the science is of these. For all we know it’s a concoction of dichroic and polarisation optics. Totally wild guess.
It was nice to see the detail differences with and without the filter. I'm just getting back into night/low light photography with pro quality gear (Canon R5), chasing detail. So I think this will be a "natural" addition to my kit very soon. Did a lot of night work with film back in the 80s and 90s and detail was limited by film so I chased colors. I know my next step now for both. This was very timely. Thanks!
Well as someone who mainly takes pictures at night and who wants to protect his lenses with a filter anyway, this is the definitely the best pick. Can get a screw on nisi 67mm for 110 euro, a good UV filter or CPL filter cost me about the same. Also, certain objects in the night sky do become more visible when using this filter.. like certain nebula, though stars might actually become dimmer.. And ofc, if you don't have to edit your raw files to get them where you want them to be it leaves more room for other edits.
I just learned how to edit HDR photos from a video you made in 2016. Thought I would check and see if you were still making videos and I'm glad to see you are. Hope all is well!
Good review, thanks a lot. I guess we can always change the colors of the light pollution in post but I would much prefer to tone it down before it even reaches the sensor. Looking around a bit and I will most likely go for this one for some suburban astro landscapes. Also interested in using this for video!
Some of that extra detail and colour will also be created by the extra 10 seconds that is added to the shot with the filter. This also is shown with the smoother water. This could also be an issue however if there was movement during the shot or for astro if not using a tracker.
No it won't Simon. We've got not a night photography course coming soon which will help you learn more, sign up at www.theschoolofphotography.com If you need to know about exposure in photography, then please check out our beginners course.
I agree for amateurs who post on facebook the price is prohibitive. If you are serious about your photography however it is a must. Why would I spend thousands of dollars on my camera and then skimp on getting a quality filter? By the way I'm using the square 6.6 x 6.6 NISI cinema version on my Sigma 20mm f1.4 Art lens for Canon EF which has an integrated lens hood, much to my chagrin until I found the Fotodiox Wonder Pana Arc Free Core system for 145mm round threaded filters and with brackets for 6.6 × 8.5 GND filters which allows me to use the NISI 6.6 x 6.6 Cinema Natural Light version just fine. Now I have the option of using a round multi coated CPL, or ND, or GND filters in any combo of two, or the Natural Light Night filter and I have a hood built in. Options are good thing when it comes to creativity and somehow all manufacturers seem to think photographers all work for Nat Geo and get to pick money off trees anyhow.
It might be worth getting if you shoot a lot of night shots. Since you are cutting a small amount of light with the filter on, perhaps that is why the highlights on some of the areas are not as blown out as the one with the filter on. I know that one photographer here in the states, Bryan Peterson, always says he shoots most of his cityscape night shots with a Hoya flw-magenta filter on his lens. Perhaps you could do a comparison between these two? And the flw you can get a screw on one.
The Cokin Nuances Light Pollution Filter is a lot cheaper than the NSI, also it comes in a round screw on as well which allows you to keep the lens hood on.
Mark, the NiSi 77mm Round Natural Night has arrived; bought through Amazon. But I think I have been duped, because this filter does not have the bluish shade I have seen in all photographs of this filter. It looks like a plain glass filter.
I looked on Amazon last week, before ordering the Nisi filter I wanted. I couldn't see any. So I went to their website where I first read the information on them and bought mine there. Maybe Nisi found out they weren't genuine or something and had them taken off Amazon. Hope you can get a refund, it's genuinely an easy process buying off the Nisi website and at least you know it will be a genuine item.
Great video. Thank you. But your tripod was constantly wobbling, probably due to the footbridge. So I’m quite surprised about the sharpness in conjunction with the longtime exposure. Or were they taken at a different time?
So interesting. I'm not up on color theory, but if the light pollution is orange, why not use a color tool to remove the orange instead of white balance?
Since many will view your image on social media will you see a difference at normal viewing distance. Is the improvement zooming 100%,200%,300% worth the bragging rights or cost? In a gallery of printed images will you see it?
super tuto. i am using a z6ii with Z 24-70mm F/2.8 and Z14-30mm F/4, both 82mm. I intend to buy a Nisi V7 82mm 100x100mm for less vignetting than circular 82mm Polarpro VND 2-5 filters. Correct ? I'd like to buy this natural night filter. You say that a circular 82mm would be better for flare with 14-30 lens hood. I would prefer using a circular one, so easy to install and compact ! No need to cascade it with other filters on a V7 BUT doesn't a circular 82mm nisi filter create much more vignetting in 14-24mm range than a 100x100mm one ?
@@theschoolofphotography sorry i forget to mentionned that i'm with canon. Lets say with the RF 15-35 or RF 24-70 , nisi mentionned that with with V6 holder filter with 3 filter stacked its not vignetting
Can someone explain why it appears the tripod is wobbling back and forth? Certainly it isn't but I am curious if someone could tell me why it looks that way.
I must say I LIKE the effect that filter has, BUT, I do not like it one hundred and fifty quid's worth, not for something that will spend most of it's time doing nothing, I mean it's not like it's going to be on the front of the lens 100% of the time
You're really struggling to find anything substantial about this product. One additional test might be to do some highlight recovery in LR to see if that one very slight difference can be remedied in LR. I suspect a simple preset could be created that would emulate this filter at virtually no cost.
I'm just a person who like street photography prefably night photography. Not a professional. Your no filter + processing photos gives me satisfying results. So, I don't need one. I should further enhance my skills about processing. Thank you for explaining.
Thanks for sharing!
19:51 Astrophotography is also night photography. With my set up, to get spot stars I can't expose for more than 10 seconds. If I were to use one of these filters, I assume that the added stop would meant hat I'd get star trails.
That is actually not the case. Technically, you get less exposure, like with any other filter, but only if you look at the whole scene and evaluate it based on the percentage gray after averaging all the pixels. This is what happens in traditional metering when you talk about stops. However, looking at it that way does not make sense. The filter is supposed to cut out light reflected from the clouds, i.e., light that you do not want because it is not coming from the subject you are trying to photograph-most likely the stars.
Imagine you shine light into the camera with a flashlight while taking the shot. Technically, you now need less time to get the same exposure because there is more light hitting the sensor, but it doesn’t help you because the light does not come from something that you want to photograph. If you now have a filter that cuts out only the wavelength of the flashlight and nothing else, it makes it easier to actually see your subject even though, technically, the exposure is lower.
i think this is more suitable in an astrophotography environment, because light pollution is literally the most important factor there. lp-filters do cut out 1/2-2/3 stops of light so the filtered spectrum has to match the situation at location for it to be a profitable solution.
I too use these for astrophotography, have you found a suitable kelvin that works good with filter? I’ve been shooting from 3700-4200 but wondering what you use Doublejay?
@@KenToney try using a neutral grey card at noon with the lp filter on
It does not make sense to talk about stops of light when we are only interested in specific wavelengths and only cut out particular ones that we do not want. E.g. If I want to shoot something blue, I do not lose exposure with a filter that cuts out red.
It’s wild how little objective analyses are available on the optics of these filters. I’m wondering if these filters contain quarterwave plates. You can observe a similar effect with inverted circular polarisation filters. The larger question is wtf their definition is of light pollution. We need to find out what the science is of these. For all we know it’s a concoction of dichroic and polarisation optics. Totally wild guess.
It was nice to see the detail differences with and without the filter. I'm just getting back into night/low light photography with pro quality gear (Canon R5), chasing detail. So I think this will be a "natural" addition to my kit very soon. Did a lot of night work with film back in the 80s and 90s and detail was limited by film so I chased colors. I know my next step now for both. This was very timely. Thanks!
You're welcome Eva, glad you liked it 😊
This is not the first time this channel helps me in the questions, rarely explained by other authors. Thanks a lot!
Welcome 🙏
Very well done as always Marc. Great views of London. On the zoomed in views in LR I wondered what a smidgen of Dehaze would do.
Thanks peter, that would also bring out the highlights more I would think.
Well as someone who mainly takes pictures at night and who wants to protect his lenses with a filter anyway, this is the definitely the best pick.
Can get a screw on nisi 67mm for 110 euro, a good UV filter or CPL filter cost me about the same.
Also, certain objects in the night sky do become more visible when using this filter.. like certain nebula, though stars might actually become dimmer..
And ofc, if you don't have to edit your raw files to get them where you want them to be it leaves more room for other edits.
Genuinely refreshing review, Thank You. Lovely images and the comparison shots were very well presented. Be well, Gary.
Thanks Gary
I just learned how to edit HDR photos from a video you made in 2016. Thought I would check and see if you were still making videos and I'm glad to see you are. Hope all is well!
Welcome back!
Good review, thanks a lot. I guess we can always change the colors of the light pollution in post but I would much prefer to tone it down before it even reaches the sensor. Looking around a bit and I will most likely go for this one for some suburban astro landscapes. Also interested in using this for video!
Some of that extra detail and colour will also be created by the extra 10 seconds that is added to the shot with the filter. This also is shown with the smoother water. This could also be an issue however if there was movement during the shot or for astro if not using a tracker.
No it won't Simon. We've got not a night photography course coming soon which will help you learn more, sign up at www.theschoolofphotography.com
If you need to know about exposure in photography, then please check out our beginners course.
Thanks Mark. I have ordered a screw on version just now for use on my R5. Expect to get it on 22nd Feb. :)
No problem, I also got the screw in versions and they work well 👍
I agree for amateurs who post on facebook the price is prohibitive. If you are serious about your photography however it is a must. Why would I spend thousands of dollars on my camera and then skimp on getting a quality filter? By the way I'm using the square 6.6 x 6.6 NISI cinema version on my Sigma 20mm f1.4 Art lens for Canon EF which has an integrated lens hood, much to my chagrin until I found the Fotodiox Wonder Pana Arc Free Core system for 145mm round threaded filters and with brackets for 6.6 × 8.5 GND filters which allows me to use the NISI 6.6 x 6.6 Cinema Natural Light version just fine. Now I have the option of using a round multi coated CPL, or ND, or GND filters in any combo of two, or the Natural Light Night filter and I have a hood built in. Options are good thing when it comes to creativity and somehow all manufacturers seem to think photographers all work for Nat Geo and get to pick money off trees anyhow.
It might be worth getting if you shoot a lot of night shots. Since you are cutting a small amount of light with the filter on, perhaps that is why the highlights on some of the areas are not as blown out as the one with the filter on. I know that one photographer here in the states, Bryan Peterson, always says he shoots most of his cityscape night shots with a Hoya flw-magenta filter on his lens. Perhaps you could do a comparison between these two? And the flw you can get a screw on one.
The Cokin Nuances Light Pollution Filter is a lot cheaper than the NSI, also it comes in a round screw on as well which allows you to keep the lens hood on.
I would be interested in the difference between the filter and tungsten white balance, and colour temperature shift between the two
Mark, the NiSi 77mm Round Natural Night has arrived; bought through Amazon. But I think I have been duped, because this filter does not have the bluish shade I have seen in all photographs of this filter. It looks like a plain glass filter.
That doesn't sound right to me. Double check with who you bought it from.
I looked on Amazon last week, before ordering the Nisi filter I wanted. I couldn't see any. So I went to their website where I first read the information on them and bought mine there. Maybe Nisi found out they weren't genuine or something and had them taken off Amazon. Hope you can get a refund, it's genuinely an easy process buying off the Nisi website and at least you know it will be a genuine item.
Very good video, but the shaky camera (may be under windy condition?) make me feel so nervous!
Great information and vlog thank you. I wonder what effect on the Milkyway or star shooting.
Thanks Robert, glad you liked it 👍
Great video. Thank you. But your tripod was constantly wobbling, probably due to the footbridge. So I’m quite surprised about the sharpness in conjunction with the longtime exposure. Or were they taken at a different time?
They were taken during the video as per filmed. Hope that helps.
@@theschoolofphotography yes, thank you Sir.
Same here I'd only bother with the screw on versions. No way would I pay £200 for it.
Amazed how sharp the long exposures were considering how much that tripod is moving due to the bridge.
Just made me think. If you are on an 'iffy' surface like the Millennium Bridge using a tripod, instead of turning off VR would you leave it on?
Thanks Marc good video nice to see the difference and explained well 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
I have a blue 10a filter will work, I hope!
Brilliant review and I would consider what you have recommended the screw - on version. Many thanks
Was that a filter cleaner you used if so where can i get one it looks really handy
Thanks Phil 👍
It's a Nisi one they give you with their filter holder kits. It's really good
It is cheaper than some ultra high end lens upgrade. It _clearly_ works.
Nice video Marc. I'd heard of this filter, but not seen it in action.
If I have to set WB using a grey card, would I do it before putting the night filter on or after?
Great educational video thanks
You're welcome 👍
So interesting. I'm not up on color theory, but if the light pollution is orange, why not use a color tool to remove the orange instead of white balance?
Hi Anthony, that's all explained in the video. Thanks
Thanks very much, very informative indeed.
Since many will view your image on social media will you see a difference at normal viewing distance. Is the improvement zooming 100%,200%,300% worth the bragging rights or cost? In a gallery of printed images will you see it?
Hi Marc thanks for the video. Quick question what was the filter cleaner you used?
Ray
Hi Ray, it's the nisi one. Thanks
@@theschoolofphotography Many thanks Marc found and ordered.
Cheers
Ray
How do you prevent your reflections from not going sideways? My shadows are kind of inclined.
Why compare daytime vs auto white balance? Aren’t we comparing the filter vs no filter? Should the settings be identical? Apologies for my ignorance.
All explained in the video and in more detail here www.theschoolofphotography.com/courses/photographing-cities-at-night
Another great video, thanks for sharing tour wisdom
Glad you enjoyed it
Any filters that can reduce the overblown light bulbs and sources at night !?...
super tuto. i am using a z6ii with Z 24-70mm F/2.8 and Z14-30mm F/4, both 82mm. I intend to buy a Nisi V7 82mm 100x100mm for less vignetting than circular 82mm Polarpro VND 2-5 filters. Correct ? I'd like to buy this natural night filter. You say that a circular 82mm would be better for flare with 14-30 lens hood. I would prefer using a circular one, so easy to install and compact ! No need to cascade it with other filters on a V7 BUT doesn't a circular 82mm nisi filter create much more vignetting in 14-24mm range than a 100x100mm one ?
Thanks Marc, you're welcome 😊
hello, can you answer the question about vignetting of a 82mm circular natural night vs a 100x100mm one at 14, 16, 20, 24mm ?
Very useful, thank you
You're welcome 👍
Great video! Thanks a lot!
You are welcome!
What were you doing at 3:30? Were you cleaning the filter? Where can I get that piece?
That is a nisi filter cleaner and I think you can get them from the Nisi online shop. Hope that helps.
@@theschoolofphotography cool, thanks! 📸
what's your opinion on clip in night filters ?
I would imagine they do the same thing
What were you cleaning the filter with? I use the Haida Red Intensifier a lot (same I believe)
Hi it's one that's provided by Nisi. Works really well 😊
@@theschoolofphotography thanks
Miso Clever Cleaner, ordered cheaper on their website than Amazon!
Hi Marc, what is the minimum of focal lenght that can be used with the screw in filter to avoid to have vignetting ?
Hi Steve, there isn't one. It depends on the lens and the thickness of the filter. Thanks
@@theschoolofphotography sorry i forget to mentionned that i'm with canon. Lets say with the RF 15-35 or RF 24-70 , nisi mentionned that with with V6 holder filter with 3 filter stacked its not vignetting
Can someone explain why it appears the tripod is wobbling back and forth? Certainly it isn't but I am curious if someone could tell me why it looks that way.
Could be the image stabilisation on the filming camera.
número framde de video 3:30, pincel para limpiar ¿que modelo, y donde comprar?
www.theschoolofphotography.com/equipment-for-photography
@@theschoolofphotography lo he mirado pero no está, como no sé como se dice, no es pincel sino como borrador esponja, número frame video 3:30
what does Nisi stand for ?
No sure
I think I would have used an ND filter to keep the exposures the same, as a longer exposure will saturate colors more.
That wouldn't have happened Fabian but thanks for the comments.
Why can't you alter the kelvin in camera first. Sure that will make a big difference. .
Hi, you can, and that's covered in the video. Thanks
It does make a huge difference using light pollution filters. 👍🏼
I thought these filters were made primarily for astro photography
Astro and night photography
I must say I LIKE the effect that filter has, BUT, I do not like it one hundred and fifty quid's worth, not for something that will spend most of it's time doing nothing, I mean it's not like it's going to be on the front of the lens 100% of the time
You're really struggling to find anything substantial about this product. One additional test might be to do some highlight recovery in LR to see if that one very slight difference can be remedied in LR. I suspect a simple preset could be created that would emulate this filter at virtually no cost.
Hi Robert, that's all shown in the video. Thanks
Very interesting, thank you. 🙂
You are welcome 👍