Hey Mike, I made up a little lifting gantry device to go inside the vehicle that sits on the front floor in front of the seats, (on a D1 at least), goes across the transmission tunnel, with a screw thread lifting device through the gearstick hole, with a bracket that bolts to the gearbox, then the gearbox and or transfer case can be removed single handedly just working on your own. I made one up to take the gearbox and transfer case out of my '98 D1 to change the clutch. I did that all on my own in our garage without removing the engine, no hoist. Later on I used the same device to drop the transfer case out of a mate's D1 to do the intermediate shaft seals, once again did that job "solo". Unfortunately I have no sketches or any photos of the bit and it was scrapped when I sold the D1 and moved house. A great idea as it gave precise, safe, easy lifting of the whole gearbox/TC unit and made it a really easy job working on your own, without having to remove the engine.
The issue with the Defender is you can get the box out easy, but the Hi low shift catches on the seat base when re fitting - even if you have the cover off With another person inside they can reef on the lever I can tilt the box on my lift, but means removing the top hose and cowl I do not always do it like this, but it covered a video on engine removal which is pretty simple on a Defender and I can do this easy on my own (edit) And I was paid to do the removal video...
If they had a power reducing button they would be better, as most are too powerful when fastening up nuts and bolts I know a Milwaukee has such a feature - but they are expensive The Dewalt was C$300 with 2 batteries and a charger
@@BritannicaRestorations Yes I have a Milwaukee M12, but only because I already had a drill and batteries, body only was less than £100 on amazon. Looks like we've lost one of the biggest Land Rover fans today, I once bought a 90 that had been used at Sandringham, white with a 2.5 petrol, very clean! All the best :)
Cheers Mike. Now this is a really nice video. It helps us all on how to choose the tools that we _really_ need to fiddle around with our Land Rovers. Thanks for sharing. Tata
G'day Mike. You 'give back' to us every time you post a video here on yt. It will be interesting to view the content about the 300Tdi removal, knowing what ive just been through with my D1 lol. I found that to get those 4 mongrel bell housing bolts at the top, i just remove the 8? gearbox cross member bolts, and drop the tail of the gearbox. Much less frustration for me lol. Great info cobber. Looking forward to the ínstruction' portion of the video lol. Kindest regards, Brett.
Great advice again Mike. Interesting with the swivel in comparison to the universal joint, and also those extension bars that allow a bit of bend too. Didn't really know about those. I've just got myself a cheap 170 odd piece tool kit which will do me fine and has come in handy already. Just need a new (second hand) vice now. 😀
Electric tools a must. I borrowed the apprentice Milwaukee tools. One side job paid for 1/2 impact Milwaukee. Absolutely fantastic.pricy. I bought 1/2 sockets from harbour freight 10 years ago est 25 bucks . Still perfect . Its sure a pleasure when you have some descent tools 🍺 Cheers
Can you imagine paying 3 to 400 dollars for snap on 1/2 sockets , jeez. I'm not cheap .I have snap on ratchets . absolutely fantastic. But when I say I paid 25 dollar snap 1/2 inch sockets other mechanics jaws drop. I'm reasonably.if the snap on truck comes and I need a tool . I'll buy it . Running around doesn't always Dave money unfortunately. Happy Friday 🍺🍺
@@BritannicaRestorations the SHOP? I played it back as I thought that was what you said initially but was relieved when you said TRUCK, or so I thought.
I was approached by a developer who wants my land when I was making the engine removal video Problem is where to go = I live above my shop so that is forbidden now, so it would mean an expensive move as I am commercial and cannot work out of a private building F*king rules!!
Fantastic stuff as always Mike, I have been subscribed for a long time, am in the process of taking a 300tdi out and transferring into a lovely rust free 200tdi chassis at the moment (experienced LR mechanic moved the engine mounts to suit. How much does one have to pay to support you on patreon ? I am doing an apprenticeship and have some of the Milwaukee stuff - it’s ok but I don’t think it’s any better than dewalt. I’m living in Oz, although not from here originally - I remember you great support during the fires - if you want to come out on hols and explore northern Queensland I should be able to sort you out with a place to stay
@@BritannicaRestorations Thats a coincidence, I’m living in Ayr- less than an hour away from Townsville- it’s the local big town. It looks you have worked on a lot of different gear over the years 👍👍
@@BritannicaRestorations Hey Mike, how can I know the genuine from the fake parts when i buying from the website like this part : erc9188-supplied-by-lrdirect-branded-britpart
Genuine parts only come from Land Rover themselves - not Britpart or Allmakes etc You can get Original Equipment Manufacture parts (OEM) that claim to be from the same manufacture as LR parts - but this is usually abused OR they can be second quality
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks a lot One more question, if you don't mind: What are the tips that you would recommend to those who wanted to buy from the sites? As you know, cheating is widely spread through online purchases. Thanks
Same job is waiting for me.
Cheers King Mike. 🥃
Hey Mike, I made up a little lifting gantry device to go inside the vehicle that sits on the front floor in front of the seats, (on a D1 at least), goes across the transmission tunnel, with a screw thread lifting device through the gearstick hole, with a bracket that bolts to the gearbox, then the gearbox and or transfer case can be removed single handedly just working on your own. I made one up to take the gearbox and transfer case out of my '98 D1 to change the clutch. I did that all on my own in our garage without removing the engine, no hoist. Later on I used the same device to drop the transfer case out of a mate's D1 to do the intermediate shaft seals, once again did that job "solo". Unfortunately I have no sketches or any photos of the bit and it was scrapped when I sold the D1 and moved house.
A great idea as it gave precise, safe, easy lifting of the whole gearbox/TC unit and made it a really easy job working on your own, without having to remove the engine.
The issue with the Defender is you can get the box out easy, but the Hi low shift catches on the seat base when re fitting - even if you have the cover off
With another person inside they can reef on the lever
I can tilt the box on my lift, but means removing the top hose and cowl
I do not always do it like this, but it covered a video on engine removal which is pretty simple on a Defender and I can do this easy on my own
(edit)
And I was paid to do the removal video...
A few turns of insulation tape around the socket set's universal stops it flopping around.
Battery powered impacts are game changers these days, money well spent.
If they had a power reducing button they would be better, as most are too powerful when fastening up nuts and bolts
I know a Milwaukee has such a feature - but they are expensive
The Dewalt was C$300 with 2 batteries and a charger
@@BritannicaRestorations Whats the model numbers of your Dewalt Impact tools Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations Yes I have a Milwaukee M12, but only because I already had a drill and batteries, body only was less than £100 on amazon. Looks like we've lost one of the biggest Land Rover fans today, I once bought a 90 that had been used at Sandringham, white with a 2.5 petrol, very clean! All the best :)
Got my birthday list completed. Used the engineer's pliers you recommended today, they are the gerbil's genitals !😀
Cheers Mike.
Now this is a really nice video. It helps us all on how to choose the tools that we _really_ need to fiddle around with our Land Rovers.
Thanks for sharing.
Tata
Glad it was helpful!
G'day Mike. You 'give back' to us every time you post a video here on yt.
It will be interesting to view the content about the 300Tdi removal, knowing what ive just been through with my D1 lol.
I found that to get those 4 mongrel bell housing bolts at the top, i just remove the 8? gearbox cross member bolts, and drop the tail of the gearbox. Much less frustration for me lol.
Great info cobber.
Looking forward to the ínstruction' portion of the video lol.
Kindest regards, Brett.
More to come!
Great advice again Mike. Interesting with the swivel in comparison to the universal joint, and also those extension bars that allow a bit of bend too. Didn't really know about those. I've just got myself a cheap 170 odd piece tool kit which will do me fine and has come in handy already. Just need a new (second hand) vice now. 😀
Thanks 👍
Electric tools a must. I borrowed the apprentice Milwaukee tools. One side job paid for 1/2 impact Milwaukee. Absolutely fantastic.pricy. I bought 1/2 sockets from harbour freight 10 years ago est 25 bucks . Still perfect . Its sure a pleasure when you have some descent tools 🍺 Cheers
Great point!
Can you imagine paying 3 to 400 dollars for snap on 1/2 sockets , jeez. I'm not cheap .I have snap on ratchets . absolutely fantastic. But when I say I paid 25 dollar snap 1/2 inch sockets other mechanics jaws drop. I'm reasonably.if the snap on truck comes and I need a tool . I'll buy it . Running around doesn't always Dave money unfortunately. Happy Friday 🍺🍺
Hi Mike 👋 just saying hi and thanks again 👍 great video update and information 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🚌🚌🚌
No problem 👍
Excellent stuff Mike
Hey mike have you got iron on brittanica restorations badges we can iron onto out overalls etc?
britrest.com/shop/
I wanted to do free shipping, but I think my shop does not cater for that - if you get stuck email me britrest@britrest.com
For a horrible moment I thought you said someone wanted to buy the shop Mike. 😆
Yes they do!
@@BritannicaRestorations the SHOP? I played it back as I thought that was what you said initially but was relieved when you said TRUCK, or so I thought.
I was approached by a developer who wants my land when I was making the engine removal video
Problem is where to go = I live above my shop so that is forbidden now, so it would mean an expensive move as I am commercial and cannot work out of a private building
F*king rules!!
@@BritannicaRestorations aha I understand now, some rules are insane, I suppose like those who dream them up. 😆 🤣
You got that right!
FACOM sell the 6 point hex Sockets, be warned they are expensive because they're professional grade
Fantastic stuff as always Mike, I have been subscribed for a long time, am in the process of taking a 300tdi out and transferring into a lovely rust free 200tdi chassis at the moment (experienced LR mechanic moved the engine mounts to suit. How much does one have to pay to support you on patreon ? I am doing an apprenticeship and have some of the Milwaukee stuff - it’s ok but I don’t think it’s any better than dewalt. I’m living in Oz, although not from here originally - I remember you great support during the fires - if you want to come out on hols and explore northern Queensland I should be able to sort you out with a place to stay
Thanks Tom!
I was in Queensland 30 years ago - worked on prawn trawlers in Townsville fixing engines etc!
@@BritannicaRestorations Thats a coincidence, I’m living in Ayr- less than an hour away from Townsville- it’s the local big town. It looks you have worked on a lot of different gear over the years 👍👍
Canadian Tire - 90% off sales for the win!
I spy a Jerry can behind you in the video, let me know if you want to sell it. Am after a couple for my ex military Defender Wolf.
Sorry no
Why did you ignore my comment?
Where is your original comment?
@@BritannicaRestorations Hey Mike, how can I know the genuine from the fake parts when i buying from the website like this part : erc9188-supplied-by-lrdirect-branded-britpart
Genuine parts only come from Land Rover themselves - not Britpart or Allmakes etc
You can get Original Equipment Manufacture parts (OEM) that claim to be from the same manufacture as LR parts - but this is usually abused OR they can be second quality
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks a lot
One more question, if you don't mind:
What are the tips that you would recommend to those who wanted to buy from the sites?
As you know, cheating is widely spread through online purchases.
Thanks