Get a sachs tob and bleeder/delay valve... Also you could resurface the flywheel my guy and save lots of money. I kept my dkm fw and ordered just the pressure plate and clutch for 400 bucks
I have had the same experience with SB. MK7 GTI Stage 2. OEM clutch was overwhelmed at Stage 1. SB clutch lasted for a little while, then begin to slip. SB replaced it under warranty. Now the second one is slipping badly (2 SB clutches and barely 30k miles). And they are pricey! Never again. I am ready to go back to OEM and remove the tune.
Dang man! I’m sorry to hear that! My slave also failed on my SB STG3! I had the Endurance version. Just crap man! Such a bad design by VW. This car would be amazing in manual form if this slave/TOB design was better. So far the MK6 all-metal version that came with my XClutch Stage 2 kit, is holding up perfectly. No issues. No leaks. I’ve put 6,700 miles in the clutch so far, 100% city driving. I talked with an XClutch rep, and they said they specifically designed the clutch around the MK6 all-metal slave/tob. So I’m hoping because they designed their clutch to be used with this specific slave/tob, that it will last longer. I haven’t heard of any other brands designing their kits around the slave/tob they provide. So, time will tell 🤞
How much horsepower/torque have you been running when burning through these clutches? I’m considering going stage 1 on my MK8 GTI but I don’t want to have to swap the clutch more then once.
I’ve never dyno’d, but with the IS38, it’s probably around 350whp/410tq. But I haven’t been going through clutches because of my power. Three of them have had their tob/slave cylinders fail on me, which seems to be a common issue. When they fail, your clutch pedal sticks or goes fully to the floor, and brake oil starts leaking inside the bell housing, which contaminates the clutch, and then you need an entirely new clutch. So mainly, it’s a really bad design from VW. Super annoying. If you go Stage 1, you’re def going to need to upgrade you clutch sooner than later.
No, I haven’t . But if it still uses the OEM TOB/slave, that part will still be prone to failing on a clutch that uses a much stiffer pressure plate. The pressure plate, disk, and flywheels aren’t really the issue with this car. It’s the lame designed tob/slave by VW.
dam man that clutch looks bad bad real bad not worth the money at all, but hey everyone has different opinions and the amount of hot spots is incredible, lets not even talk about the TOB garbage, i think the new clutch with the OEM TOB is going to be amazing the main reason of the clutches failing is the TOB not the clutch it self is sad that all this companies get cheap TOB and charge way to much for the kit, like I told you I'm leaning towards the ecs stage 4 but still trying to look for info and feed back from it and 1000% getting a OEM TOB. great video keep them coming and lets get a review/update of the Xclutch later. take care.
I have the Sachs clutch and I have been IS38 for the past 4 years and 2 days ago the throw out bearing went to heaven... Looking at the Southbend Stage 3 but damn $1,900. I will probably buy the same Sachs and get the FCP euro credit. But this time I will put the OEM throw out bearing.
From my experience, the Southbend Stage 3 clutch is not worth the cost. It fails just the same as them all, but costs almost double. You should just stick with the Sachs Performance clutch and yeah, get the FCP credit. Running it for 4 years seems pretty legit. Did you not use the OEM TB/slave the first time?
It probably is. I bought my Sachs Performance clutch kit from FCP Euro too. I researched quite a bit on what TOB/slave to use with it, and the one that came in the kit is the one that was recommended to use. I pre-bled mine before installing it. It feels really good. Others using the Sachs Performance clutch kit said it was stiff at first and then lightened up like 20-30% stiffer than OEM. Those guys have never used a SMF kit before, so when they said it was stiff, I laughed because this kit is so soft compared to the DKM, SB, and XClutch kits I’ve used. Those are so much heavier and a lot more difficult to modulate in traffic all day. Still not bad, but compared to the Sachs Performance kit, those are a lot stiffer. I’m really liking the softness OEM feel of the Sachs Performance kit, and I’m glad it’s able to handle IS38 power easily.
Haha. Yeah, it’s best that those learning to drive manual learn on easy, light clutches. Heavy clutches are a no-no! I made that mistake teaching one of my nephews on my GTI when I had the DKM Stage 2 kit in it (pretty heavy clutch), and he absolutely roasted my clutch. Stalled it probably 10 times. Clutch failed about 6 months later 😫. Will do man! I’m over 200 miles break-in on it right now. About to upload a break-in review tonight. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned.
I know but that shouldn’t disclose me from being able to let people know my experience. This part didn’t fail immediately. It failed after several thousands of miles. That doesn’t deem the part “faulty”. That deems the part “poorly made and designed”.
ngl a veloster sounds better than this. super unlukcy, i agree with what you said though. it really takes a toll mentally and phyiscially but i wish the best for you.
Thanks man. Yeah, those Veloster AB’s are sweet, but a little on the “cheap feel”, “boy racer” and small side (I’m 6’4” and don’t fit in those very well) for my liking. I wouldn’t mind owning one, but not sure how reliable they are when modified extensively and driven every day.
Get a sachs tob and bleeder/delay valve... Also you could resurface the flywheel my guy and save lots of money. I kept my dkm fw and ordered just the pressure plate and clutch for 400 bucks
I have had the same experience with SB. MK7 GTI Stage 2. OEM clutch was overwhelmed at Stage 1. SB clutch lasted for a little while, then begin to slip. SB replaced it under warranty. Now the second one is slipping badly (2 SB clutches and barely 30k miles). And they are pricey! Never again. I am ready to go back to OEM and remove the tune.
SB stage 3 slave cylinder failed leaking on my Golf R. Switching back to OEM.
Dang man! I’m sorry to hear that! My slave also failed on my SB STG3! I had the Endurance version. Just crap man! Such a bad design by VW. This car would be amazing in manual form if this slave/TOB design was better.
So far the MK6 all-metal version that came with my XClutch Stage 2 kit, is holding up perfectly. No issues. No leaks. I’ve put 6,700 miles in the clutch so far, 100% city driving. I talked with an XClutch rep, and they said they specifically designed the clutch around the MK6 all-metal slave/tob. So I’m hoping because they designed their clutch to be used with this specific slave/tob, that it will last longer. I haven’t heard of any other brands designing their kits around the slave/tob they provide. So, time will tell 🤞
@@JacesOwnWorld Exactly! Mine is Stage 3 Daily. Guess the SB kits now come with OEM Slave Cylinder. LOL...
How much horsepower/torque have you been running when burning through these clutches? I’m considering going stage 1 on my MK8 GTI but I don’t want to have to swap the clutch more then once.
I’ve never dyno’d, but with the IS38, it’s probably around 350whp/410tq. But I haven’t been going through clutches because of my power. Three of them have had their tob/slave cylinders fail on me, which seems to be a common issue. When they fail, your clutch pedal sticks or goes fully to the floor, and brake oil starts leaking inside the bell housing, which contaminates the clutch, and then you need an entirely new clutch. So mainly, it’s a really bad design from VW. Super annoying. If you go Stage 1, you’re def going to need to upgrade you clutch sooner than later.
Have you tried a Spec? They're pretty popular with owners of other marques (Honda, Ford; etc.)
No, I haven’t . But if it still uses the OEM TOB/slave, that part will still be prone to failing on a clutch that uses a much stiffer pressure plate. The pressure plate, disk, and flywheels aren’t really the issue with this car. It’s the lame designed tob/slave by VW.
dam man that clutch looks bad bad real bad not worth the money at all, but hey everyone has different opinions and the amount of hot spots is incredible, lets not even talk about the TOB garbage, i think the new clutch with the OEM TOB is going to be amazing the main reason of the clutches failing is the TOB not the clutch it self is sad that all this companies get cheap TOB and charge way to much for the kit, like I told you I'm leaning towards the ecs stage 4 but still trying to look for info and feed back from it and 1000% getting a OEM TOB. great video keep them coming and lets get a review/update of the Xclutch later. take care.
Yeah, definitely not worth the $$.
Will do bro! Thanks for watching!
I have the Sachs clutch and I have been IS38 for the past 4 years and 2 days ago the throw out bearing went to heaven... Looking at the Southbend Stage 3 but damn $1,900. I will probably buy the same Sachs and get the FCP euro credit. But this time I will put the OEM throw out bearing.
From my experience, the Southbend Stage 3 clutch is not worth the cost. It fails just the same as them all, but costs almost double. You should just stick with the Sachs Performance clutch and yeah, get the FCP credit. Running it for 4 years seems pretty legit. Did you not use the OEM TB/slave the first time?
@@JacesOwnWorld I used the one in the kit... Maybe that's the OEM 🤷🏽♂️ Let me check
It probably is. I bought my Sachs Performance clutch kit from FCP Euro too. I researched quite a bit on what TOB/slave to use with it, and the one that came in the kit is the one that was recommended to use. I pre-bled mine before installing it. It feels really good.
Others using the Sachs Performance clutch kit said it was stiff at first and then lightened up like 20-30% stiffer than OEM. Those guys have never used a SMF kit before, so when they said it was stiff, I laughed because this kit is so soft compared to the DKM, SB, and XClutch kits I’ve used. Those are so much heavier and a lot more difficult to modulate in traffic all day. Still not bad, but compared to the Sachs Performance kit, those are a lot stiffer. I’m really liking the softness OEM feel of the Sachs Performance kit, and I’m glad it’s able to handle IS38 power easily.
I'm still on stock clutch.😅 Trying to teach others in my family how to drive stick before I swap em. Lol
Also waiting on review on that beautiful new clutch.
Haha. Yeah, it’s best that those learning to drive manual learn on easy, light clutches. Heavy clutches are a no-no! I made that mistake teaching one of my nephews on my GTI when I had the DKM Stage 2 kit in it (pretty heavy clutch), and he absolutely roasted my clutch. Stalled it probably 10 times. Clutch failed about 6 months later 😫.
Will do man! I’m over 200 miles break-in on it right now. About to upload a break-in review tonight. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned.
@Jace’s Own World oh no.... I'm not ready for the stalls. My hearts already crying haha.
Haha
Every manufacturer has a faulty part once in a while doesn't mean that they are all like that
I know but that shouldn’t disclose me from being able to let people know my experience. This part didn’t fail immediately. It failed after several thousands of miles. That doesn’t deem the part “faulty”. That deems the part “poorly made and designed”.
ngl a veloster sounds better than this. super unlukcy, i agree with what you said though. it really takes a toll mentally and phyiscially but i wish the best for you.
Thanks man. Yeah, those Veloster AB’s are sweet, but a little on the “cheap feel”, “boy racer” and small side (I’m 6’4” and don’t fit in those very well) for my liking. I wouldn’t mind owning one, but not sure how reliable they are when modified extensively and driven every day.