Hey Mike, hello from Germany. I'm completely re-building my 1500 Spitfire and looked at your gearbox video for help. It's excellent, really helpful, keep up the great work and I will also contribute in time. Take care.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Hi Mike, no I don't and to be honest, not even sure what it is :-) but I will do some research. I'm pretty handy with cars, have just rebuilt the complete engine from ground up and now tackling the gearbox and then onto the rest of the car. I also rebuilt a 65 VW Beetle fully as well as an Old Peugeot 405 cabriolet. You also seem also to be an enthusiast, really geat ti see the passion, as you know, it's a lot of time invested. All the best.
Thank you. If you are rebuilding your gearbox, be sure to read the comments other viewers have made about the re-assembly. This additional information may also be useful.
Doing a rebuild myself and find your videos very helpful. Comparing it to other videos some other people use a dummy lay shaft? Any advantage to using a dummy lay shaft?
Yes. I used an old curtain rod as a dummy layshaft. It kept the needle bearings in place when the laygear was bearing put into the casing. For the most part, the grease will hold everything together. If you leave the dummy in until the shaft us inserted, it will give you confidence there isn't a stray needle being pushed out of place by the edge of the layshaft.
Morning Mike, a quick question if I may... Just looking at the replacement release bearing for the clutch and it's 4m, thinner than the one that is on the car. The one on the car is 20mm and the new one from Borg & beck is 16mm. There are some posts related to this topic on some forums. Any experience with this or thoughts? Thank you in advance.
Hi Piyal, I've never gotten to that level of detail. I replaced the clutch and release bearing once on my Spitfire and just bought what was available from the supply source. Sorry I cannot be more helpful.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Thanks Mike for the speedy response, I´ll get it sorted I'm sure. Have a good day. BTW, I noticed that you brew. Is this commercially or as a hobby. I myself distill spirits as a side business.
@piyalfernando2785 Brewing is a hobby for me. I grow my own hops, (Cascade because they grow in Florida) for some of my ales. I recently made a Kartofflebier. One of my favorites so far. What do you distill?
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Great to hear Mike, sounds nice ... I distill Vodka, Gin, Moonshine and Whisky at my still at home, all from scratch. Commercially, I sell 3 sorts of Gin. I do the recipe at home and then outsource the production to a craft distillery in Belgium. I hope that you are not too affected by the recent bad weather Mike.
Is there a part 6,the series jumps from part 5 to part 7,i was looking through the series before i order any parts for my gearbox,i hope their is as this is far better than any manual. Cheers.
Hi John, Thanks for your interest. I hope you find this series helpful. Here's the link to episode 6. ua-cam.com/video/5hmknyf88lc/v-deo.html Good luck on your rebuild!
That is the hardest part. It can be accomplished two ways. 1. Pry it out with a large flat bladed screw driver. This destroys the bearing (you're going to replace it anyways) and the retaining clip. Pulling on the output flange also helps. It takes a lot of patience. 2. Press it out with a shop press. This requires supporting the rear face of the gearbox on a built up base (wood blocks).
@@nashononyango4132 I'm glad it worked for you. When you are doing your rebuild, read the helpful advice/tips from other viewers. I've learned from their feedback. Enjoy your rebuild!
@Nashon Onyango actually the second suggestion doesn't work. I forgot that the gear train interferes with the inside of back wall in that direction. It hit me that I gave bad advice and wanted to correct myself. Sorry for even suggesting that, a hazard of not having the physical parts in front of me.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Yes getting out that darn bearing is frustrating as hell. I spent more time on that than the whole engine rebuild. My suggestion; remove the spring clip at the back of the gear train and this gives some wiggle room. Then try to get out the 2 collars that are in front of the 1st gear train. If you can do these 2 things, home and dry. In the end, there is no magic formula, take time, think it through, experiment, have patience and keep going. I know that the next time I have to do this (hopefully never), it'll be a lot easier. I was just about to cut the bearing out with an angle grinder before I did the above.
I have a mg midget 1500, which is the same gearbox as yours. See the video in the link below. Are these supposed to move like this? drive.google.com/file/d/13rivugHLKElfEY-4mVHhEIjnKSSY9i_4/view?usp=sharing
@Jason Records. Well, if you can test the gearbox while it's out of the car, it might answer your question. Assemble the shifter to the gearbox and see if it shifts correctly with the gear train not rotating, then do it while the gesr train is rotating (can do this by hand). What caught my eye was the slack with the baulk ring. Maybe it was just the angle of the camera.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop found the issue, the bushing next to 3rd gear was in backwards, and now it is fixed, has 3 thou slop now as it should I am working on another issue, if you could help me with. There appears to be be a lot of slop in the 3rd 4th synchromesh which exposes the detent ball, see picture in link below. drive.google.com/open?id=1Ab3d5J6wjea--xCyCcdaCCcKaqYtMkKO I removed the input shaft and measured about 3/16 of spline exposed from the synchromesh, when you rebuilt yours in the video, did you notices that mush exposed spline? See picture of it in the link below. drive.google.com/open?id=1vmRQW1qcUF_GLxQHKxXibWp8Kak6gHZv
Hey Mike, hello from Germany. I'm completely re-building my 1500 Spitfire and looked at your gearbox video for help. It's excellent, really helpful, keep up the great work and I will also contribute in time. Take care.
Guten Abend!
I'm glad it is helpful for you in your restoration. Thank you for letting me know.
Do you have a UA-cam channel yet? I would like to subscribe and learn from you.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Hi Mike, no I don't and to be honest, not even sure what it is :-) but I will do some research. I'm pretty handy with cars, have just rebuilt the complete engine from ground up and now tackling the gearbox and then onto the rest of the car. I also rebuilt a 65 VW Beetle fully as well as an Old Peugeot 405 cabriolet. You also seem also to be an enthusiast, really geat ti see the passion, as you know, it's a lot of time invested. All the best.
Wow! Those are cool cars. Would love to see them. Enjoy the Spitfire!
Excellent video, vey well explained thanks from Scotland.
Thank you. If you are rebuilding your gearbox, be sure to read the comments other viewers have made about the re-assembly. This additional information may also be useful.
Dude. Wow. That looks so easy , I only want to replace a gasket as gear fluid is seeping slowly. Thanks for the info 👍
You're welcome Steve. Have fun with it. Check out the last video in the series for gasket installation.
Doing a rebuild myself and find your videos very helpful. Comparing it to other videos some other people use a dummy lay shaft? Any advantage to using a dummy lay shaft?
Yes. I used an old curtain rod as a dummy layshaft. It kept the needle bearings in place when the laygear was bearing put into the casing. For the most part, the grease will hold everything together. If you leave the dummy in until the shaft us inserted, it will give you confidence there isn't a stray needle being pushed out of place by the edge of the layshaft.
Morning Mike, a quick question if I may... Just looking at the replacement release bearing for the clutch and it's 4m, thinner than the one that is on the car. The one on the car is 20mm and the new one from Borg & beck is 16mm. There are some posts related to this topic on some forums. Any experience with this or thoughts? Thank you in advance.
Hi Piyal,
I've never gotten to that level of detail. I replaced the clutch and release bearing once on my Spitfire and just bought what was available from the supply source. Sorry I cannot be more helpful.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Thanks Mike for the speedy response, I´ll get it sorted I'm sure. Have a good day. BTW, I noticed that you brew. Is this commercially or as a hobby. I myself distill spirits as a side business.
@piyalfernando2785 Brewing is a hobby for me. I grow my own hops, (Cascade because they grow in Florida) for some of my ales. I recently made a Kartofflebier. One of my favorites so far.
What do you distill?
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Great to hear Mike, sounds nice ... I distill Vodka, Gin, Moonshine and Whisky at my still at home, all from scratch. Commercially, I sell 3 sorts of Gin. I do the recipe at home and then outsource the production to a craft distillery in Belgium.
I hope that you are not too affected by the recent bad weather Mike.
@piyalfernando2785 sounds like a great business model Piyal!
We were near the path of Hurricane Idalia, but we're unaffected, fortunately.
Is there a part 6,the series jumps from part 5 to part 7,i was looking through the series before i order any parts for my gearbox,i hope their is as this is far better than any manual.
Cheers.
Hi John,
Thanks for your interest. I hope you find this series helpful.
Here's the link to episode 6. ua-cam.com/video/5hmknyf88lc/v-deo.html
Good luck on your rebuild!
Is this the overdrive gearbox or non overdrive?
It is non-overdrive. There is no differences in internals of the gearbox (forward of tailhousing) between the two styles.
Looks like you skipped over the hardest part. How did you remove the rear bearings?
That is the hardest part. It can be accomplished two ways.
1. Pry it out with a large flat bladed screw driver. This destroys the bearing (you're going to replace it anyways) and the retaining clip. Pulling on the output flange also helps. It takes a lot of patience.
2. Press it out with a shop press. This requires supporting the rear face of the gearbox on a built up base (wood blocks).
@@MikeHammill-TheShop thanks. The first suggestion did it for me.
@@nashononyango4132 I'm glad it worked for you. When you are doing your rebuild, read the helpful advice/tips from other viewers. I've learned from their feedback.
Enjoy your rebuild!
@Nashon Onyango actually the second suggestion doesn't work. I forgot that the gear train interferes with the inside of back wall in that direction. It hit me that I gave bad advice and wanted to correct myself. Sorry for even suggesting that, a hazard of not having the physical parts in front of me.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Yes getting out that darn bearing is frustrating as hell. I spent more time on that than the whole engine rebuild. My suggestion; remove the spring clip at the back of the gear train and this gives some wiggle room. Then try to get out the 2 collars that are in front of the 1st gear train. If you can do these 2 things, home and dry. In the end, there is no magic formula, take time, think it through, experiment, have patience and keep going. I know that the next time I have to do this (hopefully never), it'll be a lot easier. I was just about to cut the bearing out with an angle grinder before I did the above.
I have a mg midget 1500, which is the same gearbox as yours. See the video in the link below. Are these supposed to move like this?
drive.google.com/file/d/13rivugHLKElfEY-4mVHhEIjnKSSY9i_4/view?usp=sharing
There will be some movement but that seems to be too much. The balls in the syncro mechanism might be worn or missing.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Already check for that and they are there. I just rebuilt it last summer so they shouldn't be worn out.
@Jason Records. Well, if you can test the gearbox while it's out of the car, it might answer your question. Assemble the shifter to the gearbox and see if it shifts correctly with the gear train not rotating, then do it while the gesr train is rotating (can do this by hand). What caught my eye was the slack with the baulk ring. Maybe it was just the angle of the camera.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop found the issue, the bushing next to 3rd gear was in backwards, and now it is fixed, has 3 thou slop now as it should
I am working on another issue, if you could help me with.
There appears to be be a lot of slop in the 3rd 4th synchromesh which exposes the detent ball, see picture in link below.
drive.google.com/open?id=1Ab3d5J6wjea--xCyCcdaCCcKaqYtMkKO
I removed the input shaft and measured about 3/16 of spline exposed from the synchromesh, when you rebuilt yours in the video, did you notices that mush exposed spline? See picture of it in the link below.
drive.google.com/open?id=1vmRQW1qcUF_GLxQHKxXibWp8Kak6gHZv