Hi Mark, do we need to clean the MJ polpur wheel every time we use it? When do I realize that we need to dress the wheel and how may I do it? I can't find any information about how to use this MJ wheel. Thank you very much! 😉
Typically, you just spin the MJ wheel dry. It's okay if there is still pumice on the wheel. If you need to dress the MJ wheel, you can use a diamond dresser like this piece: www.hisglassworks.com/30-grit-t-bar-diamond-dresser-for-lp-pads-and-polpur-wheels.html It will help re-shape and open the pore structure of the material. For use, you'll apply a mud consistency pumice to your glass surface and use the MJ wheel to help abrade the glass surface with the pumice. We keep a bucket of the pumice next to our lathe when working to re-apply.
For a single piece, I would hot-pop the bottle (many videos on that technique on UA-cam) and then use loose grit silicon carbide to hand-lap the rim. For larger production, see our video here: ua-cam.com/video/EiKJ9eSqEnY/v-deo.html
@@hisglassworksinc I just saw that video, it's very good. I have a Dewalt D24000 and a hand grinder with flap discs and some 4 1/2 diamond discs. Which discs do you recommend in this measurement to make the Blue Label glasses?
@@rubermejo hand grinders will be difficult to use unless you lock it in place and move the bottle rim around the disk. The problem is that you don't want to do any of this work dry. The ground glass will become airborne silica dust which is extremely dangerous to inhale and can lead to silicosis (a very nasty way to die). All glass coldworking needs to be done wet for health and safety reasons.
I’m using the brush wheel, because I need to get into the carved lines on my work. I’m using 220sandblast, F2,F4, then cerium. I’m getting a haze in some spots. I scrub with dish soap between abrasives and at the end. Any helpful advice about the haze I’m getting in some places?
It's probably areas that have not been fully ground past from rougher grits. When you get to the polishing stage, it's removing the F4 surface but there may be leftover 220 under there that the cerium cannot remove. Just more time in those areas with the pumice.
Nicely done Mark!
Thanks!
Hi Mark, do we need to clean the MJ polpur wheel every time we use it? When do I realize that we need to dress the wheel and how may I do it? I can't find any information about how to use this MJ wheel. Thank you very much! 😉
Typically, you just spin the MJ wheel dry. It's okay if there is still pumice on the wheel. If you need to dress the MJ wheel, you can use a diamond dresser like this piece: www.hisglassworks.com/30-grit-t-bar-diamond-dresser-for-lp-pads-and-polpur-wheels.html
It will help re-shape and open the pore structure of the material.
For use, you'll apply a mud consistency pumice to your glass surface and use the MJ wheel to help abrade the glass surface with the pumice. We keep a bucket of the pumice next to our lathe when working to re-apply.
Thank you very succinct
Hello. Excellent note. If I want to make a glass with a Blue Label bottle, what should I cut and polish it with?
For a single piece, I would hot-pop the bottle (many videos on that technique on UA-cam) and then use loose grit silicon carbide to hand-lap the rim. For larger production, see our video here: ua-cam.com/video/EiKJ9eSqEnY/v-deo.html
@@hisglassworksinc I just saw that video, it's very good. I have a Dewalt D24000 and a hand grinder with flap discs and some 4 1/2 diamond discs. Which discs do you recommend in this measurement to make the Blue Label glasses?
@@rubermejo hand grinders will be difficult to use unless you lock it in place and move the bottle rim around the disk. The problem is that you don't want to do any of this work dry. The ground glass will become airborne silica dust which is extremely dangerous to inhale and can lead to silicosis (a very nasty way to die). All glass coldworking needs to be done wet for health and safety reasons.
Thanks a lot!!@@hisglassworksinc
than you this is useful
Glad it was helpful
I’m using the brush wheel, because I need to get into the carved lines on my work. I’m using 220sandblast, F2,F4, then cerium. I’m getting a haze in some spots. I scrub with dish soap between abrasives and at the end. Any helpful advice about the haze I’m getting in some places?
It's probably areas that have not been fully ground past from rougher grits. When you get to the polishing stage, it's removing the F4 surface but there may be leftover 220 under there that the cerium cannot remove. Just more time in those areas with the pumice.
I’ll give it a try, thank you 😊