Project E30 / Ep. 19 / In-Car Rear Subframe Bushing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 31 гру 2018
- In this video we take a stab at replacing the bushings in the rear subframe with it still in the car. We'll also try to increase the rear ride height a tad.
/Where the bushing tool idea came from: www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...
TOOLS USED:
/M14 threaded rod: www.grainger.com/product/FABO...
/M14 nuts: www.grainger.com/product/METR...
/Pitman arm puller: www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod...
/2 jaw puller: www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...
/Tungsten carbide Dremel bit: www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-...
PARTS USED:
/Subframe bushings: www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-part...
/Subframe bolts: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-b...
/Subframe nuts: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-b...
/Rear spring pads: www.condorspeedshop.com/produ... - Авто та транспорт
Omg, I couldn’t believe this can be done without removing the subframe, great video Peter !
True, but if you're going to bother with that might as well drop it and replace the trailing arms and dif bushings.
Masterpiece videos! Clear, fast going, no useless stuff no useless talk.
Could wathc them again and again even after done the job on the car!
Keep going, this is high quality standard video!
Thank you for the kind comment!
By far the most helpful video for doing this job! Good work.
Wanted to send a big thank you for this video. I just used your 'Pitman Puller' method to get my bushings out and it worked great! Thanks a lot.
Nice way to remove them without the PITA of dropping the whole rear end....BUT.... When your subframe bushes are gone it means your trailing arm bushes are likely gone too. The only way to get to the TA bushings is to drop it all. So if you are going to undertake this job you might as well go all way and drop the whole thing out.
Another great video. You've inspired me to get my 87 325is in shape. Next project for me - 5 speed swap!
Nice work Peter 👍🏼 it’s turning out great.
Good work and thanks for showing exactly what the repair is solving. German engineering there. Americans would have just done it cheaply and welded in a captured nut that would have been impossible to deal with... yeah ask me how I know. Jeep owner here. Happy New Year!
Oh man, I can see it now! Happy new year to you too!
... when that beat drops at 18:20. That's the best free UA-cam music I've heard.
There's some good stuff in that UA-cam Audio Library. The artists who create them and then make them available for free are the real MVPs.
Febi is the OEM for several (if not all) European manufacturers
Really well-made video - thank you for making it
Febi is no longer OEM parts supplier. Thier new stuff is all cheap Chinese tat and is no good. I know this first hand. It's up to you but there's no way febi parts will ever find there way on my beemers
Like the budget friendly approach
Crazy the top of the mount broke off and you still managed to get that piece out. I've had that happen several times but I always pull the subframe completely, so I have room to get a drill in there. II always drill 3 "holes" at an angle and chisel the bastard outta there.
That’s another way of doing it. Thumbs up!
Need to do this myself too! Was planning on removing the subframe but it doesn't look that hard actually. Thank you, this video is really helpfull to me. Keep up the good work !
You made it look easy. 😊👍🏻
Very helpful! Thanks for another great video. I own a coupe myself but I'm beginning to like those 4 doors more with each video I watch hehe.
Videos are excellent, great content and new music is great. will continue to watch. subbed
First! Did this on the Lemons car... nightmare of a task...
Wonderful videos. Did a lot of work myself watching.
Best VDO. Thanks man.
Bro, thats awesome!
Nice work
Thank you... This will save a full head of hair and conserve a few years of my life. Super usefull : )
Very cool! Subscribed!!
Did this on my E46 M but I got it done by the shop as they did my sub frame reinforcement plates etc. Too big a job on the E46 for me to handle. I kind of envy your elegant E30. Although I really like my car I love the size and look of the E30 so much. Looks killer classy!
Thanks Greg! The E46 definitely has a more "advanced" design compared to the E30.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Yes but I'm not totally convinced that it's necessarily a better one. (Or maybe it's a combination). From what I've been learning and gathering from those that have been swapping engines with chassis and then what it takes to make them work, the combination of the S54 from the E46 M3 and the E30 chassis (then tooled a little more with some configuration of E36 steering columns I think and a few other smaller changes) can produce one of the most satisfying and exciting cars for the N/A Manual car scene. I have my own fantasies LOL but not the resources or equipment to execute such an endeavor. If you want to check into a reasonably trust worthy test of this type of set up check out Matt Farah on the Smoking Tire doing so I'll grab the link for you. ua-cam.com/video/hZzTg1GoOxo/v-deo.html
very nice. I made this setup about 6 months ago after finding that same link, but could only get 1 of 2 out this way -- 2nd bushing I could not get enough purchase on with the 2 jaw, and subframe had to come out anyways. What a lot of work!
playlistforkids had this issue my self but was able to drop subframe enough to run an all thread threw the center of the pitman arm and put large washers and a nut on the other end then pull it out without the 2 jaw
Required some heat though
Very great video. The best on yt for this service.
Please dont hate me for the next words. The new rubber bushings may only last for next 10k miles. They are produced so cheap, they are shitty.
Either take glue for wind shields and fill all open space inside or better use other material like from Powerflex. In the german forum e30.de they prefered them long time ago, i drive them in both, winter and summer car since more than 10 years. Yes they are harder and you will hear more noise from rear axle, but i dont want to do this work again
مبدع
The bushings separated because when you switch to just the 2 jaw puller you pushed on the center so it had to separate to come apart and that probably why the top part got stuck.
AWEsome!!!
Thanks man.
me gusto el suplemento del resorte. Mi idea es hacer lo mismo para mejorar la caida, ya que al levantarse quedaria con menos caida y convergencia, en mi caso se desgasta la cubierta siempre desde el interior en menos de 20000 kilometros
If you don't have a 50mm socket, you can use the old bushing to push it in
I dont thimk jacking up on diff is the best idea.
Genius
can we get more motorcycle reviews? like the 04+ r1 and k5 gsxr
Hi great video!! Question on the bushing going back into the car? Do the cut outs on the bushing have to be located to any slots on the subframe or just put them how ever they go. Thanks
There are "bumps" in the subframe bushing holes that align with slots in the bushings so they can only go in one way.
How much did your ride height increase? Is it 1:1 (14.5mm increase with all 3 pads) or is the increase greater than 14.5mm due to the geometry / springs being inboard?
Nice project =)What fluids do you use to clear all that parts ?
Thanks! The fluid I'm using to install the bushings is called silicone lubricant. Something like this: www.amazon.com/dp/B0019LV3GO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fTkoCb75ME3GW
also I was afraid of using heat in this area because of the proximity of the gas tank. Any tips?
hey man, I'm looking at doing this job, trying to find similar pullers in the UK, do you know what size the 2 jaw puller you used was? the one linked says 1-5/16 in, but that seems a bit small for the job to me, or is that right and you needed to cut a lot of material away?
You think this would work for poly bushings as well?
Thanks for the great video. Very detailed and i feel very confident doing it while the subframe is in the car. Just a quick question, during the bushing removal process. Can you just run the m14 rod through the pitman puller and extract the bushing that way rather than using the jaw puller? It looks like it would eliminate the dremel cutting step. Just asking incase I'm missing something and so i can gather the tools for it. Thanks for time and a great video.
Sorry, I don't follow. How do you see the M14 rod pulling the bushing from the subframe? You can't put a nut on top of the rod (inside the car) and have it push the bushing out because the hole that goes into the car is just big enough for the rod.
@@PracticalEnthusiast thanks for the quick reply. I didn't know the hole was just big enough for the m14 rod. There aren't any pics of the inside part of the job online. I was hoping to draw out the bushing just using the m14 rod and pitman puller because i thought there was room for a washer or something. Thanks for making your videos. They're very helpful.
@@jafetreveles4564 I'm glad you like the videos! Thanks for watching. Unfortunately I don't think you'll have success going from the top :( if there had been enough room up there I would have used a punch/hammer combo to drive out the remainder of the bushing instead of using the Dremel.
Sweet, you should buy all the stuff you used to pull it (sans dremel) and sell the kit like hot cakes! (
What wheels do you have on this car? I like the look
Did you take a before and after measurement to determine how much lift you got on the body?
Yes, it raised it approximately 10mm. Not a huge change, but it stopped the car from hitting the bumpstops on every bump! I'll probably just put in different springs in the future though.
I attempted this method last week, and have a few bits of advice. The first step should be to remove the underside bracket and inspect the old bushing, BEFORE buying pullers etc. because the metal flange at the bottom of my original bushing was corroded such that the puller simply bent the flange over, rather than pull the bushing out. If there isn’t good metal there to pull on, it doesn’t really matter how much force this tool setup is capable of applying.
Second, a torch that close to the fuel tank, pump, and filter seems unwise.
How did you manage getting that old bushing out?
@@slowgan325 ended up cutting them out with a reciprocating saw
Great video !!! Hello can i use 4inch 2jaw puller? and what size of pitman arm puller?
Thanks! The 2 jaw puller I used was a 6 inch. You might be able to get a 4 inch one to work but it would be pushing it. The pitman arm puller had a 1-5/16 inch opening before I modified it. Check the video description for a link to the exact one I used.
Yeahh thank you very much..
Where are you getting your music? These videos always have some tasty jams.
Most everything is from the UA-cam Audio library. Check it out, it's free!
tieni ferma questa telecamera !!!!!!!!
I hated this job, but because I took the subframe off! It made getting the bushes out easier as I drilled them and hacksawed them out. It did meant I could do the trailing arms as well though, even though getting one back in was a pita. Di the same threaded bar trick as you here cookracing.co.uk/index.php/race-car/34-e30-trailing-arm-bushes-removal
Hard to tell but I don't see you putting the washer on the top of the new bushing.
The rear spacers will make the ride more rough? I need some spacers too for the rear end
Putting in a shim will increase the spring preload, which in turn will make it marginally stiffer. Probably not enough to notice though.
@@PracticalEnthusiast i just installed kyb shocks with eibach pro kit springs in my e30, the rear sits lower than the front, its my daily car, do you recommend the condor speed spring spacers?
Anyone else wishing they didn't have to do all this!? 😰😱
The more I watch these videos, the more I want to buy this off you when you go on to sell it. Please tell me you're gonna want to sell it at some point.
I'm sure the day will come at some point!
Seems easier but looked way harder than just removing the subframe lol. You should've just dropped the whole thing, and that way you could've also swapped out the rear soft rubber brake lines to SS. Also, why not poly bushings???
Poly bushings = more vibration, annoying in a daily driver
Really Happenings not unless you get "soft" poly, like 85a durometer (which are the most popular). They'll last longer than rubber too, and you can grease em up well and they won't squeak.
I would agree if you said poly bushings on driveline areas such as motor or diff mounts, but poly suspension bushings are very livable. Not talking from experience, but I am planning to get them in the future. 😉
1. I am speaking from experience, fwd Volvo front subframe bushings. 2. Rear subframes ARE driveline components on rwd cars, while also obv supporting the susp. I would agree if the frame in question carries suspension only.
Really Happenings hmm interesting. Where are those front subframe bushings on your volvo? Do you have rubber motor mounts?
Seems to me that for the e30, if you get rear soft poly suspension bushings and a rubber diff mount, you rly won't get noticeable vibrations. I'll definitely by trying this tho.
What was the purpose of the first 8 minutes???
I have a 1997 BMW Z3 that needs the cross over bushings. I'm told that the z3 has an E36 front suspension, and more relevant, an E30 rear suspension. So my question is: Does anyone know definitively whether the Z3 has access to these bushings from above, as did the E30 in this video? (Not looking for "I think..." answers, don't want opinions)
Sorry too say but why did you use the rubber bushes . Ive got all suspension bushes on my e30 all powerflex bushes . Hate rubber its very soft dry rots not a great ride to soft and you can hear odd things if your e30 is a lowrider . Don't know why people bother with hectic low and excessive rear camber . Bunch of clowns
It was the cost-to-benefit factor that led to the rubber bushing choice. I'm not tracking the car, it's purely for street use. I actually prefer a small amount of subframe deflection to help dampen road noise. Rubber bushings are relatively cheap and poly bushings are not. Time is also a cost factor. Poly bushing installation requires the subframe to be completely removed. Rubber bushings, as can be seen in this video, can be installed in an afternoon. Ultimately, rubber bushings were a cost-conscious method of fixing what was wrong with the car. Thanks for watching!
Get a cheap army surplus coverall, save your shirt
Might have to do that!
@@PracticalEnthusiast ebay $20, I have three, "changed my life" so to speak
Pro tip replace them with polyurethane and delete having to press them in.