Very instructive video! I did not know you could add a sanding belt to a grinding wheel, genius! Also love that splash guard for the polishing pad. You may want to use nitrile gloves and spare your hands. The most expensive tools in your garage are your hands.
Great video. By the way, here's an idea, if someone makes a video, and in the comments section, you ask the youtuber a question, and he takes the time to answer you. Say thanks, or at least a thumbs up.....its just good manners. 🙄
tip when polishing with a dolly go against the grain it cuts into the metal and removes the lines in the metal ..10 years of polishing under me belt day in day out doing the same thing you learn fast how to take short cuts but you nearly got it spot on m8 ;)
I used this method for removing rust, and polishing brushed suits of medieval armor in various grades of cold rolled steel and they now have a mirrored finish. A light coating of gun oil and it shines.
Where did you find those buffing wheels with the platic/poly centers ? All the buffing wheels they sell locally have nothing in the middle not even the leather centers, they are all meant to be bolted on the grinders and i bought tapered spindles now for ease of changing them.
Totally up to you Mimby, you can polish afterwards so your welds match the steel. Those polishing compounds would need to be carefully cleaned off with acetone if you planned to TIG weld after the polishing.
Awesome - thanks! Looking forward to completely cocking this up first time, then getting it right eventually. Is the colour of the soap universal - so white is always the finest - I have some and it's colour-coded (and where is the code sheet you ask ..... hmmmmm)
Ha, the good thing about polishing is you can go back a couple of steps and correct any problems. The only loss is a bit of time. TBH I don't know about the colors of the soap....the colors are whatever our local brand has chosen. Sounds like a question for the Google machine....
Nice - I just followed this method by hand using sand paper/ metal sponge/ polish (t-cut) on my iron Kara. Worked a treat. I had no idea you could use sandpaper on iron like that, amazing! Thanks.
Dill Wiggle yes, I certainly do. The construction of the wheels is different and they suit a particular grade of polishing soap. In my case the supplier of the soaps had product info on their packaging which suggested what type of wheel suited each soap.
Hi Matt that turned out great. Just one question can I ask where you got the attachment for turning the bench grinder into the belt sander. That's a pretty cool attachment I've never seen those before. Would love to get hold of one. Thanks for sharing I've subscribed.
+Mark Grevatt hi Mark not sure where you are in the world, but if you search "bench grinding attachment multitool" on Google or Amazon you'll turn it up 👍
Dale Cummings Hi Dale, I would use a coarser abrasive to remove the scratches, then work through the finer abrasives to bring it back to a mirror shine. So maybe some wet and dry paper - do it wet - 800, then 1000 then 1500 then 2000 grit, then use your metal polishes. You might need a buffing wheel and some polishing soaps (which are just really fine abrasives) to remove the sanding scratches before going to polish.
I go straight to polishing and afterwards i see scratches. i never sand the object, i.e. shell casings or brass objects. I've got 2 types of buffing wheels. a cutting, and then the finial polish. And 2 types of compounds, a light green and a brown, and the company that makes the compound and wheels is called JOSCO.
Perfect video. Quick question: To maximize shine, would I want to alternate the direction of the sanding/polishing or sand/polish in same direction? Thank you!
Shouldn't matter, as you get into the finer grits (say 1000 and above) you can't see sanding marks (unless you've failed to sand out previous grits. Once you get to 2000 then into the polishing soaps it should just come up like a mirror finish with no visible sanding marks anywhere.
Great video! I have one question: do polishing soaps (first time hearing about this material) come in the same grading system as sanding paper? i.e. 100, 600, 1200 grit? course to fine
Don G. Hi Don, thanks for your comments. Yes the polishing soaps are in different grades. However I don't remember them being marked with a grade. The supplier I bought them from had the "system" marked on the packaging...ie, start with grey on a stitched mop, then brown on a stitched mop, then green on a loose mop, then white on a loose mop. I bought dedicated mops for each soap, and marked the colour soap on the mop with a Sharpie, and also its "number" (1,2,3 & 4) in the process, so I use the right soap and mop in the right order. Remember these are used after final wet sanding (and I have paper up to 2000 grit) so the grades are very very fine. Good luck!!!
Where in the process do you wet sand,then dry sand. I am confused, do I have to wet sand all through the process or just one step? Also is a "mop" the same as a buffing wheel? Tx!
Don G. Hey Don, A. Belts (dry) B. Emery (if needed) (dry) C. Sand (wet) D. Polish 1, then 2, then 3 then 4 E. Metal polish Yes I use the terms mops and buffing wheels for the same thing. Sorry. Probably should be more consistent. Also maybe I should add....if the surface is already in good condition (smooth), then you might start at step D or E. Sometimes a surface is just dirty and a good polish is all it needs. If the surface is rusty, damaged or pitted then you have to go up the list and start at A or B. Have a look at this video I did where I smoothed out a motorcycle triple clamp. I hand filed it (which leaves quite a rough surface - relatively speaking) and had to go through these steps to get it to a mirror finish - ua-cam.com/video/c7Ivif25jIY/v-deo.html
***** you may have misunderstood what i meant my friend, Gloves on that sort of equipment is a bad idea, the chances of serious injury go up if you put gloves on. its probably my fault for not making myself clear after re-reading my comment.
Kia Ora & Good Evening from Unsworth Heights, North Shore, Auckland, New Zealand …Great Video Bro …
Very instructive video! I did not know you could add a sanding belt to a grinding wheel, genius! Also love that splash guard for the polishing pad.
You may want to use nitrile gloves and spare your hands. The most expensive tools in your garage are your hands.
Great video.
By the way, here's an idea, if someone makes a video, and in the comments section, you ask the youtuber a question, and he takes the time to answer you. Say thanks, or at least a thumbs up.....its just good manners. 🙄
Nice share, good info. Thanks.
tip when polishing with a dolly go against the grain it cuts into the metal and removes the lines in the metal ..10 years of polishing under me belt day in day out doing the same thing you learn fast how to take short cuts but you nearly got it spot on m8 ;)
I used this method for removing rust, and polishing brushed suits of medieval armor in various grades of cold rolled steel and they now have a mirrored finish. A light coating of gun oil and it shines.
William Merzlak works well doesn't it?
great!!! good information for beginners like me...
Ahhhhh yes, Lucas the prince of darkness.
I need to do what you're doing to a large surface roughly 4x3' using an angle grinder. Can you offer any extra tips?
Where did you find those buffing wheels with the platic/poly centers ? All the buffing wheels they sell locally have nothing in the middle not even the leather centers, they are all meant to be bolted on the grinders and i bought tapered spindles now for ease of changing them.
+Dill Wiggle I got mine at the local hardware store, but search Amazon for "calico buff" and you'll find them.
Matt McLeod zero results
+Dill Wiggle "calico buffing" my bad
Matt McLeod yes I tried calico buffing wheels, the USA site has some but Canada site has zero results must be a Canadian thing, nothing new lol
how do u get to keep it maintain its shine and not dull and tarnish as im polishing steel and alloy metals but they keep dulling down??
As a new metalworker, for those projects being welded, should you polish the pieces before or after welding?
Totally up to you Mimby, you can polish afterwards so your welds match the steel. Those polishing compounds would need to be carefully cleaned off with acetone if you planned to TIG weld after the polishing.
@@krankengineering thanks, what part of Australia are you in? I'm in Brisbane
Melbourne mate 👍
Sir 3 Page machine single phase per chalta hai kya
Do you need to clean the cloth polishing wheel? If so, how do you clean them?
+Steve Friedlander no, but I have a dedicated wheel for each compound
Awesome - thanks! Looking forward to completely cocking this up first time, then getting it right eventually. Is the colour of the soap universal - so white is always the finest - I have some and it's colour-coded (and where is the code sheet you ask ..... hmmmmm)
Ha, the good thing about polishing is you can go back a couple of steps and correct any problems. The only loss is a bit of time. TBH I don't know about the colors of the soap....the colors are whatever our local brand has chosen. Sounds like a question for the Google machine....
how do i keep the metal from dulling and tarnish as im polishing steel and alloy but keeps losi g its shine???. any info would be great
Hmmm all I need to do is polish door hinges
Nice - I just followed this method by hand using sand paper/ metal sponge/ polish (t-cut) on my iron Kara. Worked a treat. I had no idea you could use sandpaper on iron like that, amazing! Thanks.
Thanks, Comrade Kim!
so did u used two different wax polishing bricks ? or is it the same ?
sorin990 be a cut then a polish also 2 different wheels
what are those metal parts used for?
+SassWonGames repairing metal panels on cars etc
Cool Vid! Just wondering where you got that belt sanding rig for the bench grinder at 2:40?
thanks Matt, really good video, clearly explained, no faff!
Glad it helped!
So do you use all 4 soaps one after the other and change the buffing wheels with each different soap ?
Dill Wiggle yes, I certainly do. The construction of the wheels is different and they suit a particular grade of polishing soap. In my case the supplier of the soaps had product info on their packaging which suggested what type of wheel suited each soap.
how would you recommend polishing the blade of a swiss army knife?
Hi, I would just start with a metal polish and rag. Any metal polish available from an auto supplier would be OK
Hi Matt that turned out great. Just one question can I ask where you got the attachment for turning the bench grinder into the belt sander. That's a pretty cool attachment I've never seen those before. Would love to get hold of one. Thanks for sharing I've subscribed.
+Mark Grevatt hi Mark not sure where you are in the world, but if you search "bench grinding attachment multitool" on Google or Amazon you'll turn it up 👍
Matt McLeod thanks buddy I will check on Amazon in based in the UK mate. Really do like that attachment. Thanks for sharing 👍👍
When i polish my brass or metals, afterwards i see scratches in it. What does that mean? And what can i do about it?
Dale Cummings Hi Dale, I would use a coarser abrasive to remove the scratches, then work through the finer abrasives to bring it back to a mirror shine. So maybe some wet and dry paper - do it wet - 800, then 1000 then 1500 then 2000 grit, then use your metal polishes. You might need a buffing wheel and some polishing soaps (which are just really fine abrasives) to remove the sanding scratches before going to polish.
I go straight to polishing and afterwards i see scratches. i never sand the object, i.e. shell casings or brass objects. I've got 2 types of buffing wheels. a cutting, and then the finial polish. And 2 types of compounds, a light green and a brown, and the company that makes the compound and wheels is called JOSCO.
Can't hear u!
it takes ages to mirror finish just by hand, You have to remove deep scratches first before You start polish
good video !!!
Perfect video. Quick question: To maximize shine, would I want to alternate the direction of the sanding/polishing or sand/polish in same direction? Thank you!
Shouldn't matter, as you get into the finer grits (say 1000 and above) you can't see sanding marks (unless you've failed to sand out previous grits. Once you get to 2000 then into the polishing soaps it should just come up like a mirror finish with no visible sanding marks anywhere.
Excellent video!
+Steve Friedlander thanks!
6:40 -- Where did you get that screw on tapered spindle?
Just from the hardware store, located with all the polishing accessories in the tool department!
@@krankengineering -- Thanks. I have never seen one at a store or on Amazon.
Ghar per Lagane ke liye Aadha HP best hai kya 1.5 HP best hai
Top video bud
+Bruce Smith cheers mate
What is the power ot this grinder? Would 400W be enough for polishing smaller parts like engine covers and maybe swingarms?
Thanks!
Igor Šiška You go by the RPM of the cutting and polishing wheels more than 3,000rpm is going over board.
Also, good to see the "multitool" in the vertical position for a change ;)
Hi Matt, What size & make of bench grinder would you recommend for just polishing?
Hi Daryl. I have 6" grinders. But I think 8" would be better. Mine are Abbott & Ashby brand. But anything that suits your budget would do.
it's called polishing rouge not soap
+brutalbrital whe also call it soap its a crafts term
Erwin Holland
oh ok never heard it called that before cheers
What would be the best buffing wheel to remove small line marks after milling?
felt wheel with brown bar
i do this every day ..very handy to restore things
Have you tried BRASSO? It's a really good metal polish.
Sure have Dale. I agree - it works great.
Where did you get the sander attachment from on the bench grinder ?
I bought it locally here in Australia but you can find it on Amazon. Search “belt grinder multi tool” 👍
@@krankengineering , Thanks, will check it out
ينصر دينك يااستاذ نفيسه
Great tutorial and demonstration Matt.
How would the process differ for restoring steel?
Hi Gemma, this is process is pretty well applicable to all metals. Cheers!
Great video! I have one question: do polishing soaps (first time hearing about this material) come in the same grading system as sanding paper? i.e. 100, 600, 1200 grit? course to fine
Don G. Hi Don, thanks for your comments. Yes the polishing soaps are in different grades. However I don't remember them being marked with a grade. The supplier I bought them from had the "system" marked on the packaging...ie, start with grey on a stitched mop, then brown on a stitched mop, then green on a loose mop, then white on a loose mop. I bought dedicated mops for each soap, and marked the colour soap on the mop with a Sharpie, and also its "number" (1,2,3 & 4) in the process, so I use the right soap and mop in the right order. Remember these are used after final wet sanding (and I have paper up to 2000 grit) so the grades are very very fine. Good luck!!!
Where in the process do you wet sand,then dry sand. I am confused, do I have to wet sand all through the process or just one step? Also is a "mop" the same as a buffing wheel?
Tx!
Don G. Hey Don,
A. Belts (dry)
B. Emery (if needed) (dry)
C. Sand (wet)
D. Polish 1, then 2, then 3 then 4
E. Metal polish
Yes I use the terms mops and buffing wheels for the same thing. Sorry. Probably should be more consistent.
Also maybe I should add....if the surface is already in good condition (smooth), then you might start at step D or E. Sometimes a surface is just dirty and a good polish is all it needs. If the surface is rusty, damaged or pitted then you have to go up the list and start at A or B. Have a look at this video I did where I smoothed out a motorcycle triple clamp. I hand filed it (which leaves quite a rough surface - relatively speaking) and had to go through these steps to get it to a mirror finish - ua-cam.com/video/c7Ivif25jIY/v-deo.html
I’m watching this because I was buffing a piece of metal and it flew backwards and hit someone...(it happened in my art class)
Wear some gloves mate!
Not around rotating equipment mate.
***** there isnt a single job you can do on that type of equipment, thats worth hurting yourself for is there.
lifesabuzzwhoopwhoop yeah I'll risk an abrasion injury over loosing a finger, but thanks for the concern.
***** you may have misunderstood what i meant my friend,
Gloves on that sort of equipment is a bad idea, the chances of serious injury go up if you put gloves on.
its probably my fault for not making myself clear after re-reading my comment.
***** great video by the way