things may have changed since I learned so may be better techniques these days so ymmv and definitely fancier synthetic mop types I not tried due to supply of old stuff. Used to be the case for last passes only go in the direction of the mop with the work piece, never against or up and down like in the vid when you're finishing because it is more aggressive and affects the fineness of finish. Use as little compound as possible and clean workpiece between mops/compounds. I use vienna lime for that but a soft cloth is enough to stop contaminating next mop. I start with high cut low colour compounds and progress to low cut high colour compounds as you'd expect. Same for mops starting on sisal, hard felt wheels, then various stitched mops, loose leaf calicos or WDR mops. For steel furthest I go is G300A compound but for handles I do final on WDR mop using vonax if I want it to really shine. I don't step through all those for each job as that's ott, after the sanding prep (finish 1200grit wet'n'dry or 00000 wire wool) it's 2 or 3 steps but depending on finish I may do one basic polish if mirror not required. Hope it helps and as always I enjoy your content ;)
A tip i found whilst watching a Bob Loveless video was to always buff under the center line of the wheel, then when something does catch it is flung down and not out towards the user. Hope this helps.
One tip that may be beneficial is when working with small parts on a buffer, stand to the side of the wheel so when it catches it's less likely to hit you. It's never a matter of "if" a part will catch, it's a matter of "when". Also, I don't leave wheels on my buffer anymore, they burn far to easily when sparks hit them. Last thing, pick up a rake if you don't have one, it's the best way to clean up a caked up wheel.
I pretty much wear a head sock and 3M full face respirator for all grinding and buffing ops. May seem overkill, but I'm clean at day's end and my eyes never feel like sandpaper. I also trim those fuzzy strings and take a few minutes to center buffing wheels, so they run balanced, smooth & quiet. Thank you for great content!
So when I was in highschool I saw a awesome sounding class called metals and I signed up for it. I figured it would be some type of welding type class but it ended up being a metal jewelry class. I ended up liking it so much I took it all four years and don't regret it. Where I'm going with this is I have a lot of experience with grinders and buffers but mostly buffers. Making jewelry from soft metals you spend unreal amounts of time sanding from 120-10k grit but then comes polishing. You'll spend easily three times as long polishing a copper or brass piece. Many years later I see so many people misunderstanding how to use a buffer and some doing incredibly dangerous things despite their intentions being safety. Buffers do not have guards for the reason you mentioned with the knives. Soft wheels will grab a corner or edge of your work and sling it generally 90 degrees around the wheel then straight out. However, I've been to many shops where people installed guards and are afraid of using the buffers because materials keep hurling at them when they lose control. You've just basically given the buffer a barrel and pointed it at your chest. Also, guards collect heaps of polish and leaves a nasty sludge. Your buffer should not have any type of impedance near or around the wheel and should be used in an area that an object sent flying wouldn't hurt someone or something. Lastly, stop using gloves especially with soft wheels it can apparently take your fingers. My jewelry teacher always showed her hand missing a finger at the beginning of each year explaining a buffer ripped it out while wearing a glove. Who knows if she made that bit up but she was indeed missing a finger. If you are using a soft wheel on a buffer I recommend not using gloves, guard, tool rest, shield, or anything within the immediate area of the wheel. Wire wheels are a grey area they have even more danger of sucking items in but have the risk of constantly slinging wire shrapnel everywhere.
The buffer is without a doubt the most important tool in the shop I work at. It is a critical part of production. We use Baldor 1800rpm bench buffers, but we also have a 3600rpm machine for the rare occasions where we do fine buffing. Most of the time, we use them with Nylon wheels, wire brush wheels, and abrasive scotch brite wheels for deburring. Also, you should be using a downdraft table with a bench buffer. The best one for the money is probably the Jet Tools variable speed 8 inch buffer. It seems to be as good as the Baldor and costs 1/3-1/2 of the price.
Hi James I have sears craftsman buffer over 10 years old. About the same buffer you have. Bought it to buff all the chrome parts on my Harley. It worked grate overall. I found it easier on bigger parts. The smaller things you buff the more concentration you need to use. Mine is mounted on a stand. That way when i let things get loose it went to the floor. Did that a few times. Using a buffer is not much difference from using a 7- or 4-inch grinder. When you hang the wheel or wire brush up something is going to give. For me i think a buffer is very useful as long as their used right. You can put a chrome finish on most any metal if you have the right wheels and compound. Might save a little sanding too. Stay safe man
I put a buffing wheel on one side of my bench grinder about 10 years ago and it's worked great ever since. Haven't tried making a knife with it before, but it's worked great for polishing up car parts and other random projects I've built.
Very helpful, and as expected your delivery of the content was clear, concrete, concise, and easy to understand. Definitely going to give a scotch brite wheel a whirl in the future. I wasn't even aware of their existence, at least not consciously 🤔
Nice review. I have a buffer in my shop as well. I have those „screws“ at the end of my shafts that allows for a quick toolless wheel change. Imho, most important to avoid accidents using a buffer. The correct stand in front of the wheel, I have a broad stand with my feet far apart. If something grabs in the buffing wheel it hits the floor, not my feet. The point of contact between my handle or blade and gbe wheel, always below the centerline if the shaft on the downward turn. Also here if the workpiece grabs it flies to the floor not my belly.
I had to check, but had ordered that exact same unit. It went out of stock for a long time. When it came back in, I bought it. I was shipped a different model, the replacement model, which I did not want. Amazon was good about returning it.
Good vid, I have been thinking about one of these for awhile as my regular buffers are getting cramped and I can't always get to them as easily as I'd like, a dedicated unit would be good and probably safer.
Always good to see a video from Red Beard Ops. I'm a knife maker and just recently used an ancient bench grinder to do some buffing, it worked pretty well, but I think I can do better. I was looking at buffers today (the Powertec was one of them) but haven't decided yet, I buy all my 6" x 48" belts from Powertec, so after watching this I'm definitely leaning that way, Hey, if you said the name My channel Caleb Ray in one of your videos I'd really appreciate it, My channels really struggling and I don't know why...Anyway, keep up the good work, you're one of the most skilled and down to earth knife makers I know (Kyle Royers a little technical for Me).
It takes people years to get followings... and possibly more importantly this is a pretty saturated genre. You really have to set yourself apart from the rest if you want to succeed.
I've got the kit to convert my father's old 6 in bench grinder into a buffer. Will see how that goes. I'd rather do that than buying a new tool. If it doesn't work, then I'll see about buying a new buffer. Stay awesome.
My SOP for wood and G10 handle material is to hand sand up to 1000 (wet sanding the last grit), then buff (on the buffer) with a very light amount of compound, then buff on a different wheel (on the drill press) with Mother’s mag and aluminum polish. Then finish with either mineral oil, boiler linseed oil or car wax
I wish I would have seen this sooner before I bought my 3100 rpm buffer. When I’m buffing knives I hold the handle with both hands. Thanks, I ended up installing a buffer to my drill and control the speed through a belt system. Thanks
I used to be too afraid to use a buffer because of the horror stories I heard. But after using it a bit, the fear has mostly gone away. Soon, I'll probably become so complacent that I'll end up with a knife in my chest.
I loved this video, but was concerned by the reviews of the buffer you referenced. So I went up-market (to the tune of $550-ish) but got a lovely variable speed dedicated buffer and air channel wheels (or whatever they are called) from Maverick. And the combination is just divine.
I can definitely see how these can be dangerous for knives. I use one to polish aluminum business cards. My 5-inch normal cotton wheel is fine, but I have a 8 inch loose felt wheel that periodically rips the car out of my hands and flings it into drywall with no effort. I can only imagine if that was a steel blade.
For sure! With some google searching you can find the stories of knifemakers getting hurt by these things.... much respect is needed for the buffer when using!
Very cool. I've been waiting for a nice Dayton or Baldor buffer to show up on Facebook or Craigslist. I already have a really nice grinder and also wire brushes on a 6" 3600 RPM grinder and I think it's too fast and would like a slow speed buffer motor like this for wire wheels too. I'm running out of room.
*_Look Before You Buy a Knife; Are They Useful?_* And other questions that appear only on UA-cam when affiliate links and cheap Chinese mech are offered.
The buffer came with 8'' buffing wheels which will be great for the polishing. not sure about the type of compound for copper, but likely some white or pink when it comes to the sanding I'm also not sure... maybe some 320 non-woven wheels like I showed in this video (higher grit if you can find it)... then buff.
The sweet spot on a buffer is about 7 o’clock. If people are going to use them to buff knives which is inherently dangerous, then wear deafening music headphones so no one can distract you, lock the door, turn the phone off and make sure that you always have as much metal above 7o’ clock as possible to avoid it snagging and being thrust into your spleen. Also, ideally stand to one side.
I bought my bench grinder from Harbor Freight for $80 and I get about 25 or 2600 RPMs. I got this particular one because I can put the 8 inch wheels on it and it had the longer shafts so I wouldn't be so close to the motor with my blades. I personally have never had any problems with the RPMs being too high but I've only been buffing my knives to a mirror finish for a year or so. I don't understand why lower RPMs would be better. I am interested to know the reason.
@@ghostoftheUchiha3250I guess there could be a chance of burning specific materials at high speeds... but yeah, safety is big with buffers. They're very dangerous, IMO
@RedBeardOps I always wait until after the final buff is complete to put an edge on them for that reason and I wear welding gloves and a face mask when I buff but there is still a point on the end of it! LOL
Do you have any recommendations when it comes to cutting your knifes out, I currently use and angle grinder and would like to possibly switch to a bandsaw.
Hey man, I'm a big fan of the porta-band being used in the upright position. I use the Harbor Freight Bauer Bandsaw for this with a SWAG off-road table. Bauer Bandsaw - amzn.to/30tVihM Bandsaw Stand - (Swag) - amzn.to/2LN9QoE Blades Option 1 - amzn.to/3rqjLBr Blades Option 2 - amzn.to/2Z4fMRV
Somewhat off topic - I see you have the speckled epoxy surface on the floor in your shop. I just built my shop and was considering having that done, but wasn't sure if it would be a good idea for a bladesmithing shop where I would occasionally be dropping hot steel. Has that been a problem for you?
Yeah it was here when we got here. For general purpose it's nice, but it will start burning when you drop hot steel... if you're doing a lot of forging I wouldn't advise it.
I'm looking at getting this buffer and noticed it had a few reviews that said it was under powered or had some issues starting and running. smoothly, is this something you've had any problems with?
I always stand on the side of the machine, the way I have mine mounted helps with this. And I always have it going in reverse (spinning away from me) so if anything catches it’s thrown In the opposite direction.
plz advise me...i made MDF wheel for my new bench grinder...when i put the knife near of the wheel, thrre is a sound like pressure air come out and then strong explosion ...but nothing got bronken...
Ah yes, the spinning wheel of certain death. This thing is no joke the most dangerous tool in my shop. I loathe having to use it and also loathe not getting to use it. I wish there was a safer alternative that did the same job.
@@RedBeardOps I manage from day to day, but man...these things catch so unpredictably you're almost rolling the dice. I've had mine for a few years and use it maybe 3-4 times a week, and the best I've been able to figure out is there's a point where you can feel the resistance start building up, not because you're pushing harder or changing the angle, but it's like the wheel just gets stickier, maybe from increased friction or buffing compound building up. You have about half a second to react before it wants to rip it out of your hands. Fortunately, very few of the things I buff are metal, so I sort of got a feel for it with wood that isn't quite as dangerous as a beveled blade flying around the shop. You'd think a cotton wheel would be one of the more innocuous things in a shop. I keep some sharp scissors handy to trim off the excess threads, I've found that with wood and other soft materials this will actually leave marks in the finish that you can't buff out with a rag. The random threads and cotton fluff that get all over you and the shop are unfortunately unavoidable LOL
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper.... That's what a Vacuum System is for, set up Behind the Polishing & Buffing wheels.... keeps You, and the shop a Lot cleaner.
@@Romans--bo7br Man I wish I had room for any kind of vacuum system, I'm using a big shop vac that works great on belts and saws but it doesn't do a thing for that fluff. I just use an electric leaf blower on myself when I finish up, good way to cool off too 9/10 would recommend
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper..... Hello, and thanks for your reply. Interesting... I to, use a Shop Vac for my stationary circular and belt sanders, as well as my table saw. I came across a Grizzly portable Vac System (1hp - dual bags) in a Pawn Shop about 8 yrs ago for a very reasonable price in very good condition for nearly a fourth of new. I spent a little extra to pick up some flexible 5" tubing and a few PVC pieces to hook it all up behind my two Baldor pedestal buffers (1 & 2 hp - 1800 rpm & 2800/3450 rpm - 1.25" arbor shafts - Made in AR. USA) which I've had since new, in 1986 and after all these years and use, still in great shape, smooth & quiet with lots of torque. Anyway, the vac system has reduced all the associated polishing dust and "debris" by at least 90%, on myself and my basement shop floor and walls. What little "dust" I do get on me... I use my air compressor / hose & blow gun to "dust off" with.... but there was a time when, like yourself... I used a leaf blower. "Great minds think alike"!! lol
no thanks. gordon dempsey made knives for forty years..FORTY. a split second of inattention and it buried a bowie knife in his chest. wife came out to call him in for dinner and found him stone dead on the floor. ill stick to hand sanding.
Any buffing tips? I'm new to this thing... Cheers!
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⭐240 Grit Wheel - amzn.to/3OFFvGT
⭐Buffing Compound - popsknife.supplies/products/maverick-buffing-compound?_pos=2&_sid=b1710be89&_ss=r
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Combat abrasives just released a pretty slick line of buffing wheels. I’m definitely going to be checking them out.
things may have changed since I learned so may be better techniques these days so ymmv and definitely fancier synthetic mop types I not tried due to supply of old stuff. Used to be the case for last passes only go in the direction of the mop with the work piece, never against or up and down like in the vid when you're finishing because it is more aggressive and affects the fineness of finish. Use as little compound as possible and clean workpiece between mops/compounds. I use vienna lime for that but a soft cloth is enough to stop contaminating next mop.
I start with high cut low colour compounds and progress to low cut high colour compounds as you'd expect. Same for mops starting on sisal, hard felt wheels, then various stitched mops, loose leaf calicos or WDR mops. For steel furthest I go is G300A compound but for handles I do final on WDR mop using vonax if I want it to really shine. I don't step through all those for each job as that's ott, after the sanding prep (finish 1200grit wet'n'dry or 00000 wire wool) it's 2 or 3 steps but depending on finish I may do one basic polish if mirror not required. Hope it helps and as always I enjoy your content ;)
A tip i found whilst watching a Bob Loveless video was to always buff under the center line of the wheel, then when something does catch it is flung down and not out towards the user. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip!
One tip that may be beneficial is when working with small parts on a buffer, stand to the side of the wheel so when it catches it's less likely to hit you. It's never a matter of "if" a part will catch, it's a matter of "when".
Also, I don't leave wheels on my buffer anymore, they burn far to easily when sparks hit them. Last thing, pick up a rake if you don't have one, it's the best way to clean up a caked up wheel.
Thank you greatly Robert for the tips!
Or… get out the Dremel.
I pretty much wear a head sock and 3M full face respirator for all grinding and buffing ops. May seem overkill, but I'm clean at day's end and my eyes never feel like sandpaper.
I also trim those fuzzy strings and take a few minutes to center buffing wheels, so they run balanced, smooth & quiet.
Thank you for great content!
Thanks for the tips!
So when I was in highschool I saw a awesome sounding class called metals and I signed up for it. I figured it would be some type of welding type class but it ended up being a metal jewelry class. I ended up liking it so much I took it all four years and don't regret it. Where I'm going with this is I have a lot of experience with grinders and buffers but mostly buffers. Making jewelry from soft metals you spend unreal amounts of time sanding from 120-10k grit but then comes polishing. You'll spend easily three times as long polishing a copper or brass piece. Many years later I see so many people misunderstanding how to use a buffer and some doing incredibly dangerous things despite their intentions being safety. Buffers do not have guards for the reason you mentioned with the knives. Soft wheels will grab a corner or edge of your work and sling it generally 90 degrees around the wheel then straight out. However, I've been to many shops where people installed guards and are afraid of using the buffers because materials keep hurling at them when they lose control. You've just basically given the buffer a barrel and pointed it at your chest. Also, guards collect heaps of polish and leaves a nasty sludge. Your buffer should not have any type of impedance near or around the wheel and should be used in an area that an object sent flying wouldn't hurt someone or something. Lastly, stop using gloves especially with soft wheels it can apparently take your fingers. My jewelry teacher always showed her hand missing a finger at the beginning of each year explaining a buffer ripped it out while wearing a glove. Who knows if she made that bit up but she was indeed missing a finger. If you are using a soft wheel on a buffer I recommend not using gloves, guard, tool rest, shield, or anything within the immediate area of the wheel. Wire wheels are a grey area they have even more danger of sucking items in but have the risk of constantly slinging wire shrapnel everywhere.
Thanks for the comment! Good tips in there.
The buffer is without a doubt the most important tool in the shop I work at. It is a critical part of production. We use Baldor 1800rpm bench buffers, but we also have a 3600rpm machine for the rare occasions where we do fine buffing. Most of the time, we use them with Nylon wheels, wire brush wheels, and abrasive scotch brite wheels for deburring. Also, you should be using a downdraft table with a bench buffer. The best one for the money is probably the Jet Tools variable speed 8 inch buffer. It seems to be as good as the Baldor and costs 1/3-1/2 of the price.
Thanks for the tip on the bench!
Hi James I have sears craftsman buffer over 10 years old. About the same buffer you have. Bought it to buff all the chrome parts on my Harley. It worked grate overall. I found it easier on bigger parts. The smaller things you buff the more concentration you need to use. Mine is mounted on a stand. That way when i let things get loose it went to the floor. Did that a few times. Using a buffer is not much difference from using a 7- or 4-inch grinder. When you hang the wheel or wire brush up something is going to give. For me i think a buffer is very useful as long as their used right. You can put a chrome finish on most any metal if you have the right wheels and compound. Might save a little sanding too. Stay safe man
Thanks for the comment will! Have a great rest of your weekend.
I put a buffing wheel on one side of my bench grinder about 10 years ago and it's worked great ever since. Haven't tried making a knife with it before, but it's worked great for polishing up car parts and other random projects I've built.
They are handy for sure! Cheers
Very helpful, and as expected your delivery of the content was clear, concrete, concise, and easy to understand. Definitely going to give a scotch brite wheel a whirl in the future. I wasn't even aware of their existence, at least not consciously 🤔
Glad it was helpful! Cheers sir!
Nice review. I have a buffer in my shop as well. I have those „screws“ at the end of my shafts that allows for a quick toolless wheel change.
Imho, most important to avoid accidents using a buffer.
The correct stand in front of the wheel, I have a broad stand with my feet far apart. If something grabs in the buffing wheel it hits the floor, not my feet.
The point of contact between my handle or blade and gbe wheel, always below the centerline if the shaft on the downward turn. Also here if the workpiece grabs it flies to the floor not my belly.
Very very good tips Roland! Thank you for sharing
I had to check, but had ordered that exact same unit. It went out of stock for a long time. When it came back in, I bought it. I was shipped a different model, the replacement model, which I did not want. Amazon was good about returning it.
Interesting!
stuff like that happens to my buddy's cousin's friend's older brother all the time, dude can't catch a break
I'll be getting one of these for the shop soon. This definitely helped me go ahead and pull the trigger on it.
Heck yeah man, cheers! Enjoy that new shop
Good vid, I have been thinking about one of these for awhile as my regular buffers are getting cramped and I can't always get to them as easily as I'd like, a dedicated unit would be good and probably safer.
Man, it's nice having it... really helps make that handle material shine! Cheers sir!
Always good to see a video from Red Beard Ops. I'm a knife maker and just recently used an ancient bench grinder to do some buffing, it worked pretty well, but I think I can do better. I was looking at buffers today (the Powertec was one of them) but haven't decided yet, I buy all my 6" x 48" belts from Powertec, so after watching this I'm definitely leaning that way, Hey, if you said the name My channel Caleb Ray in one of your videos I'd really appreciate it, My channels really struggling and I don't know why...Anyway, keep up the good work, you're one of the most skilled and down to earth knife makers I know (Kyle Royers a little technical for Me).
It takes people years to get followings... and possibly more importantly this is a pretty saturated genre. You really have to set yourself apart from the rest if you want to succeed.
@@VitaKet Too true, too true.
I've got the kit to convert my father's old 6 in bench grinder into a buffer. Will see how that goes. I'd rather do that than buying a new tool. If it doesn't work, then I'll see about buying a new buffer. Stay awesome.
Good luck Adam! Be safe now, they can be a scary machine. Have a great weekend. 🙌
@@RedBeardOps Safety first always.
My SOP for wood and G10 handle material is to hand sand up to 1000 (wet sanding the last grit), then buff (on the buffer) with a very light amount of compound, then buff on a different wheel (on the drill press) with Mother’s mag and aluminum polish. Then finish with either mineral oil, boiler linseed oil or car wax
Very nice! Cheers Andrew!
I wish I would have seen this sooner before I bought my 3100 rpm buffer. When I’m buffing knives I hold the handle with both hands. Thanks, I ended up installing a buffer to my drill and control the speed through a belt system. Thanks
Be safe my friend! Cheers
Thanks for the intro/review of the buffer.
You bet, Cheers sir!
I used to be too afraid to use a buffer because of the horror stories I heard. But after using it a bit, the fear has mostly gone away. Soon, I'll probably become so complacent that I'll end up with a knife in my chest.
Hah! Don't say that Sam!
@@RedBeardOps Well, it's a better way to go than cancer, so I'm really being optimistic. 🙂
I think you need to wait until next life to use a grinder or welding machine..if u r scared of harmless creature like buffer..😒
Hope not, but the origin of lots of "knife in chest" cases is "confidence"....
Huh? You Got to be kidding me 🤦
Generally the 3400/3600 rpm setting is for hard stuff like stainless, gems anything very hard. 1400/2000 is for softer stuff. looks like a nice unit.
Thanks for the info!
I loved this video, but was concerned by the reviews of the buffer you referenced. So I went up-market (to the tune of $550-ish) but got a lovely variable speed dedicated buffer and air channel wheels (or whatever they are called) from Maverick. And the combination is just divine.
I can definitely see how these can be dangerous for knives. I use one to polish aluminum business cards. My 5-inch normal cotton wheel is fine, but I have a 8 inch loose felt wheel that periodically rips the car out of my hands and flings it into drywall with no effort. I can only imagine if that was a steel blade.
For sure! With some google searching you can find the stories of knifemakers getting hurt by these things.... much respect is needed for the buffer when using!
Very cool. I've been waiting for a nice Dayton or Baldor buffer to show up on Facebook or Craigslist. I already have a really nice grinder and also wire brushes on a 6" 3600 RPM grinder and I think it's too fast and would like a slow speed buffer motor like this for wire wheels too. I'm running out of room.
Man, its easy to "run out of room"!! no matter how large or small your shop is. LOL
Thank you for making this. I have been wanting to get a buffer to help bring out Hamon, but I have been hesitant to get one.
Glad I could help! Be safe with em!
@@RedBeardOps always am.
*_Look Before You Buy a Knife; Are They Useful?_* And other questions that appear only on UA-cam when affiliate links and cheap Chinese mech are offered.
interesting?
@@RedBeardOps Incomprehensible.
Always wear my heavy leather apron. I have 2 polishing buffers, one for steel and one for wood. Have fun.
Thanks for the tip! Cheers man
Get some buffing belts for a 2x72. I don't like dedicated buffers.
I'm new to this kind of thing, what wheels would I need in order to lightly sand copper pipe and then buff and polish?
Thanks!
The buffer came with 8'' buffing wheels which will be great for the polishing. not sure about the type of compound for copper, but likely some white or pink
when it comes to the sanding I'm also not sure... maybe some 320 non-woven wheels like I showed in this video (higher grit if you can find it)... then buff.
The sweet spot on a buffer is about 7 o’clock. If people are going to use them to buff knives which is inherently dangerous, then wear deafening music headphones so no one can distract you, lock the door, turn the phone off and make sure that you always have as much metal above 7o’ clock as possible to avoid it snagging and being thrust into your spleen. Also, ideally stand to one side.
Good tips sir! Cheers
You can also soften the stitched wheel by removing the outer row of stitching. Want more softness? Remove another row.
Good tip Eddie!
Oh shit! 😱 that opening warning story
I bought my bench grinder from Harbor Freight for $80 and I get about 25 or 2600 RPMs. I got this particular one because I can put the 8 inch wheels on it and it had the longer shafts so I wouldn't be so close to the motor with my blades. I personally have never had any problems with the RPMs being too high but I've only been buffing my knives to a mirror finish for a year or so. I don't understand why lower RPMs would be better. I am interested to know the reason.
lower speeds with a large wheel feels safer to me; less grabby
@RedBeardOps so it's a safety thing!? I can understand that! I guess I'm stupid LOL I was thinking it was something to do with how it buffs😂
@@ghostoftheUchiha3250I guess there could be a chance of burning specific materials at high speeds... but yeah, safety is big with buffers. They're very dangerous, IMO
@RedBeardOps I always wait until after the final buff is complete to put an edge on them for that reason and I wear welding gloves and a face mask when I buff but there is still a point on the end of it! LOL
Outstandingly informative video. As usual.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Yeah. I need one.
Im tired of trying to buff on my bench grinder. The body is always in the way
It's nice to have for sure
Do you have any recommendations when it comes to cutting your knifes out, I currently use and angle grinder and would like to possibly switch to a bandsaw.
Hey man, I'm a big fan of the porta-band being used in the upright position. I use the Harbor Freight Bauer Bandsaw for this with a SWAG off-road table.
Bauer Bandsaw - amzn.to/30tVihM
Bandsaw Stand - (Swag) - amzn.to/2LN9QoE
Blades Option 1 - amzn.to/3rqjLBr
Blades Option 2 - amzn.to/2Z4fMRV
I have a scotch brite wheel. Do you recommend to add a bushing to it? It’s on a bucktool grinder. Fit ok though 1/2 in shaft.
Heck I really don't know, You're going to have to use your best judgement on that one. They're pretty handy wheels!
Somewhat off topic - I see you have the speckled epoxy surface on the floor in your shop. I just built my shop and was considering having that done, but wasn't sure if it would be a good idea for a bladesmithing shop where I would occasionally be dropping hot steel. Has that been a problem for you?
Yeah it was here when we got here. For general purpose it's nice, but it will start burning when you drop hot steel... if you're doing a lot of forging I wouldn't advise it.
Thanks mate. Great info! 👊
You bet!
Can you mix carnuba wax on the same wheel with white diamond compound or any other compound?
I’m sure you could; that would be fun to try. Seems like a good idea but I’m not a pro buffer
I'm looking at getting this buffer and noticed it had a few reviews that said it was under powered or had some issues starting and running. smoothly, is this something you've had any problems with?
I personally have not had those issues.
Awesome! Thanks for the response and the great videos.
That one nice handle nice work
Thank you Clinton!!
How do those cheap scotch brite alternative wheels hold up?
So far so good... I don't use it all the time, but mine are still good
I always stand on the side of the machine, the way I have mine mounted helps with this. And I always have it going in reverse (spinning away from me) so if anything catches it’s thrown In the opposite direction.
Good tips!
Do you mean you just turn the buffer the opposite way or are there some buffers you can reverse?
plz advise me...i made MDF wheel for my new bench grinder...when i put the knife near of the wheel, thrre is a sound like pressure air come out and then strong explosion ...but nothing got bronken...
Man, I have no idea. Please be carful, these are dangerous.
We want to this machine.where do we get
Check the description for a link
Thanks for sharing your info
My pleasure!
I have both of those fiber wheels but can’t seem to find bushings to reduce to 1/2 in that fit snug enough in the bore….
Hey Matt, I turned those bushings on my lathe at 4:03 . I'm not sure if there is a place to purchase.
@@RedBeardOps I’d be willing to buy a set from a certain red bearded maker
@@mattpaisley8706 Hahaha, I appreciate that sir, but not on my bingo card.
Interesting, why are the shafts so long?
Gives you more room to work without hitting the motor int he middle
Do you think this can polish a kirby?
Hmmmmmmmm, idk
@@RedBeardOps I'm looking for something that can polish my Kirby what can I use? I need something that can spin.
great review
Thank you!
Thank you
Thanks Ryan!
Price
Check description
Lovely
Yeah, sharp edges and soft cotton wheels can be dangerous
Ah yes, the spinning wheel of certain death. This thing is no joke the most dangerous tool in my shop. I loathe having to use it and also loathe not getting to use it. I wish there was a safer alternative that did the same job.
It's a time saver for sure.. sounds like we just need to respect it.
@@RedBeardOps I manage from day to day, but man...these things catch so unpredictably you're almost rolling the dice. I've had mine for a few years and use it maybe 3-4 times a week, and the best I've been able to figure out is there's a point where you can feel the resistance start building up, not because you're pushing harder or changing the angle, but it's like the wheel just gets stickier, maybe from increased friction or buffing compound building up. You have about half a second to react before it wants to rip it out of your hands. Fortunately, very few of the things I buff are metal, so I sort of got a feel for it with wood that isn't quite as dangerous as a beveled blade flying around the shop. You'd think a cotton wheel would be one of the more innocuous things in a shop.
I keep some sharp scissors handy to trim off the excess threads, I've found that with wood and other soft materials this will actually leave marks in the finish that you can't buff out with a rag. The random threads and cotton fluff that get all over you and the shop are unfortunately unavoidable LOL
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper.... That's what a Vacuum System is for, set up Behind the Polishing & Buffing wheels.... keeps You, and the shop a Lot cleaner.
@@Romans--bo7br Man I wish I had room for any kind of vacuum system, I'm using a big shop vac that works great on belts and saws but it doesn't do a thing for that fluff. I just use an electric leaf blower on myself when I finish up, good way to cool off too 9/10 would recommend
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper..... Hello, and thanks for your reply. Interesting... I to, use a Shop Vac for my stationary circular and belt sanders, as well as my table saw.
I came across a Grizzly portable Vac System (1hp - dual bags) in a Pawn Shop about 8 yrs ago for a very reasonable price in very good condition for nearly a fourth of new.
I spent a little extra to pick up some flexible 5" tubing and a few PVC pieces to hook it all up behind my two Baldor pedestal buffers (1 & 2 hp - 1800 rpm & 2800/3450 rpm - 1.25" arbor shafts - Made in AR. USA) which I've had since new, in 1986 and after all these years and use, still in great shape, smooth & quiet with lots of torque.
Anyway, the vac system has reduced all the associated polishing dust and "debris" by at least 90%, on myself and my basement shop floor and walls.
What little "dust" I do get on me... I use my air compressor / hose & blow gun to "dust off" with.... but there was a time when, like yourself... I used a leaf blower. "Great minds think alike"!! lol
chainmail lol they're not dangerous at all if you use them properly and treat them with respect
Higher probability of accident than most other tools I'd say. Based on the data! Cheers!
Praiz
no thanks. gordon dempsey made knives for forty years..FORTY.
a split second of inattention and it buried a bowie knife in his chest.
wife came out to call him in for dinner and found him stone dead on the floor. ill stick to hand sanding.
8inch wheel LOL
lol?
🤜🤛
why you measuring in inches and then saying Dimensions of the whel in mm???:))))))when people will make it easier?
Just to mess with you sir!