Pusher Fans, Puller Fans, or Reversible Electric Fans - Summit Racing Quick Flicks
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- Pusher Fans, Puller Fans, or Reversible Electric Fans
Dave blows away any questions about automotive electric fans. Pusher fans, puller fans, or reversible fans which electric fan is right for your car. Dave covers efficiency, the recommended fan CFM ratings, and more. www.summitracin...
Hi 94kr2990,
There are times when a pusher fan may be able to assist a factory belt driven fan due to a slow engine idle or a worn clutch drive hub. If you are shopping for an electric fan to take over for a factory belt driven, spend the money to get a properly sized fan to not only fit the dimensions of your core surface area but also to pull an adequate amount of air without assistance from a pusher.
Summit Racing
The simple answer is yes, of course. Larger than necessary fans just mean that the fans will not have to run as long to cool the radiator and may add some efficiency to your air conditioning if equipped. But, keep this in mind, larger electric motors require higher amounts of current flow so, make sure that the wiring to the fans is more than adequate to handle this load. Also, make sure the vehicles charging system is healthy as well. Thanks for watching!
I love yours fan I bought 16 inch I think it's around 2000 rpm I used it as pusher with relay and sensor instead of my faulty six pusher fan it's quiet and effective and work for few seconds and cools like a charm really astonished with the quality and performance thumbs up
Thank Dawson. One reason you are probably getting those results is because. (It's also one of the most important things that we haven't even mentioned on here yet.)
If you have a thermostat with your electric fan, your fan shouldn't even come on while you are heading down the road. Your fans are really only there for when your are sitting still. On the other hand if you have a belt driven fan it is always turning, whether you are sitting idol or running down the highway. Robbing you of Power!
Steve New
Off Road vehicles that turn low RPM can benefit from them. Cold start to normal temp time can be reduced. ( Only slightly I would think but noticable. ) Also overheating after shut down can help be prevented.
Just all depends on what vehicle you are running. Thats my .00002 worth. =]
The typical dual fan from Jegs runs about 24 Amps Soooo... My point is...
(24 amperes) X 12 volts = 288 watts
So that's less than a half of a horse power to run a dual fan.
You're not going to miss a 1/2 a HP
Correct?
PS...I have read...and I dont have personal experience on this, but I have heard that one of the knocks on the Stroker motor is that it generates quite a bit of heat, so that is another consideration/concern of mine. thanks again and I look forward to your reply.
Doing the change over helped me. I put a electric fan on my 94 s10 4.3l Z 165hp and also changed the air intake to a cone filter and that gave me about 2-3 mpg. It didn't do much on my 2000 s10 maybe 1-2 mpg but better then nothing. My 94 s10 had a 16" S blade fan while the 2000 s10 had stock duel fans off a 02 Concorde that cooled alot better then the 16" fan which I plan to use on the 94 after a v8 swap.
Hi WVresident ,
Thank you for sharing your experience! Good luck with your V8 swap.
Thanks for watching!
When using electric puller fans, a front mounted pusher fan will end up causing a restriction starving the pullers.
Thanks for watching. Let us know if you have any additional questions.
Newer vehicles have both puller fans behind the rad and pusher fan in front of the rad for AC. So, how is that wrong???
Whatof the pusher fan has more cfms than the puller?
Do these enhance your A/C in any type of way?
Thanks in advance..
Would love to get one of these on my 04 5.4L Expedition. Probably give me an extra umph in gas milage.
Our tech department asked that you give them a call at 1-330-630-0240. They have a few additional questions to ask you. Thank you for watching!
The winner is. Steve New
I gained 2 Miles Per Gallon. I'm not sure on the Horse Power, but I can feel the difference so it should be some kind of gain for those two things to happen.
A ammeter will let you know sooner if the alternator quits. The volt meter shows the system as a whole. A alternator can be putting out 14 volts and not be at full output. The current output is what you have to check to see if it is. So saying it is at full charge right after you start is not always the case. Usually it takes RPM to reach that full charge too. If you drive across town at slow speeds or low RPM you probably never reach full output or fully charge your batt.
Well... Lets see... Here's the point.
I get that Amps, volts, and watts are all ways of measuring different aspects of electricity. An amp, is the amount of current in a circuit, while volt is the strength of the current as it flows through the circuit, and watts are the total electrical power released by circuit per second.
I'm really not trying to argue, but alternator is running at max and min voltage at start up. It may very a couple of points here and there, but for the most part they are right on the money.
They do sell higher voltage alternators for people who need it. Like off road vehicles with high powered KC lights and things like that.
But even if you got your stock alternator to push out 15 - 16 volts, the difference would be so small I doubt you would see 1/16 MPG of a difference in fuel economy.
I have a 14 5.7 ram and i'll remove the clutch fan and i have the AC fan tuned , I'm thinking about about a pusher fan that will work with the AC one i found a 2230 CFM fan do you think it will do the job ?
I've always wondered why some manufacturers use 3 fans for their cars (2 electric pusher fans and one mechanical puller fan). For example my 2001 Infiniti q45 has 3 fans, 2 electric and 1 mechanical. I also know that the 1996-1998 Mercedes e320's have the same setup.
Once you reach the max charge rate for that particular alternator then yes the load on the engine will not change but it shouldn't be a max load all the time. Just like you say it has a regulator so with increase electrical load so does the amount of charge the alternator puts out. You said its not like a A/C unit but actually its more like that than you think it just doesn't completely kick out. It doesn't always turn the same or have the same load on it. Thus the need for the regulator.
I can't say it is completely different because it will kick out once the batt is fully charged. Does that happen often. Maybe not as often as the A/C but it still happens so no its not completely different. It is a mechanic clutch versus an electrical clutch basically so no they are still similar.
What about diesels ! My truck started overheating a few months ago when pulling a trailer,
I understand that... but alternators are built with regulators on them. It shouldn't be putting out more than 13.8 to 14.3 volts. If it does then your regulator is bad. (keeps from over charging batteries and other things)
As soon as you turn your engine on, it should be producing approximately 14 volts. Just because you are running 100 mph doesn't mean you are going to be producing more volt.
Correct?
If you have a weak battery and you turn on a few lights sometimes you can hear the engine load up as you turn them on and unload when you turn them off. Well that is robbing HP. But even with a good batt they will discharge the batt and the alternator gradually picks up the load. A elec fan will free up some HP but not 100% more like 50% + -. I don't know the math but from what Ive read 5% is close. But with a good batt its not immediate. Elec fans have advantages.
Steve have you never rode a bike with a generator on it? The more electrical load the harder it is to turn the generator or alternator. A alternator spins free when un hooked or no load on it but but hook up some lights and see how hard it is to turn then. =]
Alternators and the whole elec system use to be alot more simple. With the old one wire alternator you could say engine on its "charging" maybe not a full output but its loading the engine always. The newer 3 wire alternator varies its output to a certain degree based on RPM. From what I understand can fully kick out. Maybe Im wrong but it how I understood it. If the exciter wire reads 14V or max volt it shuts off. As you say thus not over charging the batt. So U bring up good points. =]
Can u place both pusher n puller styles?
What else is needed if any? Will the fan come with wiring/relay/fuse? Will electrical system require upgrade? Larger alternator/wiring/mounting hardware?
So bottom line is the added load for an electrical fan is not free. It comes with a price. It's not as much as the mechanical fan but is still substantial. Roughly with out researching the math again an electrical fan removes 50% + - that the mechanical fan puts on the engine. So you gain in one spot but loose in another. So it all depends on what your purpose is. If its drag racing them by all means go for it! U prob charge your batt often if not after each run.
You reach max charge rate as soon as your car turns on which is approximately 14 volts. It is at max load at all times. If you hook up a gauge on your vehicle it will read approximately 14 volts on start up traveling or running 100 mph down a road.
The regulator keep your battery from over charging and under charging.
As far as it being like an A/C unit. An A/C unit runs off a clutch which actually turns a separate component inside the compressor. So it's completely different.
True or False?
About the HP argument : how much power is consumed? I understand it might be relevant on a honda civic, but what about high power cars (400 HP+) ? Isn't it like a 2 HP difference (0.5% of 400)?
Good point I never thought of that. I'm also glad this did not become a B$%ch session.
too many people get T'd off when people comment on these, both of you have kept it worth reading and informative. thanx
I wanna hook one up to help cool my ac condenser when sitting still.
Hi Gainzo1413,
You should be fine but, be cautious when stacking loads such as this new cooling fan, the heater blower motor, wipers, headlights, rear defroster etc. as this will load and potentially overheat your new alternator and shorten its life.
@Nissan240sxKA
Your altrernator always has a load on it... So wouldn't it always turn the same? It's not like an air conditioner where something kicks on when it need too. It's a generator... Which turns the same no matter what you do. True or False?
2019. thanks for the vid! lol
Would you get greater cfm if you had both a pusher and a puller mounted in line on either side of the rad? So eg: i buy 2 reversible fans and have the opposing each other but same flow direction.
i know on a custom pc water cooling loop it does help to have push/pull fans on the radiator
no.
My 1996 Vette runs quite hot and I've tried almost everything to keep the temp as low as possible w/ a low thermostat, new temp sensor, cleaning radiator, all new coolant, etc. It already has puller fans and I'm thinking about mounting a nice 16" as a pusher up front. Can you see any probs w/having both?
Vettes run at 220 F° also make sure to have the plastic shroud underneath the engine on the c4s. They are required for cooling
I purchased the 16 inch perma cool elec. fan 2950 cfm. However it did not come with a shroud. Do you have a suggestion for a shroud thru your store that would fit this application?
I have a belt driven fan it's on my 06 hummer h3. I want to keep it but also want to add an electric fan to help cool down the Trans and keep the a.c. blowing cold. during my off road adventures. would you recommend pusher or puller?
Hi George,
Adding a puller inside the belt driven fan shroud could prove to be tricky as well as interrupt airflow through the shroud. A pusher/s would be best in this instance.
+Summit Racing please help. i have a 1951 chevy with a 235. i have an aftermarket 6 blade fan and shroud on the radiator. when in traffic i start getting hot. what kind of fan would i need? any help from you would be appreciated thanks....
putting counter clockwise dual fans on a single clockwise system what would the effects be
superb
Can you use a pusher fan as a puller fan if you reverse the power supply??
thanks mate, awesome info.
Adding more electrical load to a vehicle like most systems today that are already loaded up isn't a good idea. So as far as adding a electrical fan you could possibly be adding more hurt than help. As you say they have a regulator but will increase the output with more load which in turn adds more load to the engine. Example....ever listen to a portable generator when you plug stuff in or turn stuff on? It adds load to the engine. Same thing happens in your vehicle its just not as pronounced.
If you use 2 fans do you combine there CFR to find the total number I bought 2 fans that are 700 a piece I have a 4 cylinder and you said between 1300-1600 mine would be 1400 combined I wasn’t sure if this would work. right now one of my fans died on the car a year ago (stock fans) so only one is working and it hasn’t over heated and I’m replacing them with slimmer fans
Generally speaking fan CFM ratings can be added but, understand that not all fan manufacturers rate their fans the same. Advertised CFM ratings can differ widely dependent on any restrictions (static flow) and supply voltage. Here is a link to some great info from Griffin Radiators! www.griffinrad.com/tips.php?tid=45
On a everyday driver it might not be such a great idea. On an off road 4x4 its an almost no brainer!! Slow mph with little to no air flow! Yes it needs all the help it can get!! Plus some radiators are mounted in the back so you have no choice.
8 - 15 amps isnt much but that with all the other electronics we have these days it is actually substantial and has to be considered. Watch what happens when you add that to a system already loaded on a 100 degree day. Heat is a killer!! =]
For a 98 Chevy blazer 4x4 which one would you prefer to use. I'm wanting to do the swap but need the right way to go instead of the wrong way and just cause problems and do need to make a fan shroud or is the just the fan fine
What do you recommend for a 67 Camaro with 250 L6 engine? might do some engine mod in the future (like heads and pistons-no force induction) to gain some HP.
Thanks
What size pusher fan should be used
Hi Jeff, we would need some additional information.
I have a GMC Jimmy 1995 (v6 4.3L ) and i bought a dual electric fan with 50 amp and 4000 cfm.
The original alternator generate 100 amp so i bought a 140 amp alternator.
So now can i install the electric fans or not ??
U have to run the engine and turn some RPM to fully charge the batt or reach full charge from the alternator. So based on time and RPM how much of that time did you reach full charge and kick out or take some of the load off the engine? Plus adding a fan on a hot day can be counter productive because of the added load to the already loaded system. Elec fans have advantages but its not quit as most people think or have been told. Adding load is still load and robbing HP.
Difference might be torque and efficiency. Mechanical fan needs to work hard at low rpm must be optimized to cool when most needed, at low speeds. Electric can be managed better, optimizing blades for max speed. Also electrical power use is a bucket that you pull from and refill. It may not need to fill that bucket at once, leaving more hp on the table in moment needed.
@@ceeweedsl max speed or max flow? A electric motor turning at max rpm with no angle on the blades doesn't move air but is still a load on the system.
I get what you are saying but on a small engine with a small alternator it can struggle in 100F heat in the sun! I forget what the video was about but a electric fan isn't best for any or all applications. On a automobile probably so but even on my 1987 Suzuki Samurai with a 55 amp alternator its a big load! Driving at night at low RPM it struggles!
But on equipment that doesn't move and is in direct sun all day I dont think a electric fan is the best idea. Electrical components do not take heat nearly as well as a mechanical fan.
Trying to help you understand some of the reasons modern vehicles use electric fans and why older car owners wil, change over from mechanical to electric fans to gain power. I cant give you a complete science lesson in a comment. But this: 1. rpm is not load. 2. Fans ARE speed controlled and shut off as needed. They can be mamaged by mjltiple sensors as well as the ECU.
I dont know what your imaginary device is that sits stationary in the sun, but we are talking about ICE vehicles here.
@@ceeweedsl imaginary? Where you live? You don't have or use machinery that sits in one place? Farm equipment, Oilfield equipment, contruction equipment. .....and the list goes on!
I understand why modern vehicles use them. What I'm saying is its not always the best way to go! Ive seen way to many automobiles and the tons of electrical crap on them fail in hot weather! Im in Texas and the heat will destroy it! Melts wires, deforms plastic and electronic components! ( while under a heavy load I mean. But that's a typical summer day here in Texas )
Now what Ive seen NO modern vehicle controls the RPM of the fan its either on or off! Im talking up to 2010. So what vehicle you know of that controls the RPM?
@@WW5RM Ok, I would definitely think through each application if designing cooling for farm or whatever machines. Im from Houston, live in s New Mexico. One of our current vehicles is a 2002 VW with a VR6 engine. Great motor, compact, runs hot. Two 500 watt fans pull air through 2" radiator, condensor and tranny cooler. One fan runs anytime the ac is on, but speeds up as water temp rises as well. The other fan is 100% temp controlled. They both have three speeds, ranging from quiet to jet engine. They also run after motor is off for a while with small electric circ pumpo keep heat fromsoaking and warping heads. This motor probably would not be possible without managed electric fans. But my truck runs a clutch fan and stays cool, not gonna change it, not broken!
wow thank you for this video, was greatly helpful, awesome!!!
What is better: 1-16"electric fan or 2-9" electric fans of equal strength.. I'm assuming the 2 fans since the cover 2" more? But what is your opinion?
Thanks for the video. :)
rag Doll ,
Anytime multiple fans can be used in order to get maximum coverage across the core of the radiator, that will be best for cooling!
What if you do both
You talk about CFM ratings but yet the fans you sell on your website don't show a CFM ratings... So I will be looking elsewhere to purchase.
these videos some one help even engineers already working in industry. I am one of them. You don't learn everything in the university.
Thank you for watching and commenting, Felipe!
Hi robwallace714,
Can you please give our tech department a call? 1-330-630-0240. There is quite a bit of information to discuss. We look forward to your call. Thanks for watching!
I have a flexalite fan (I think it's a 440 pusher) but I am NOT sure of this... is there anyway I can test (or look at on the fan) to be sure if it's a pusher? I heard if I wire it incorrectly and it's a pusher fan, I can break it. 😬
Yes. It’s a very good choice and would work good.
@@SummitRacing Is there a way to test if the fan is a pusher or puller as I'm not 100% sure what model # it is. Thanks
One watt is equal to one volt multiplied by one amp
1 horsepower is 746 watts
One watt is one volt at 1 amp
I have a question about the radiators, i was on your site try to find a radiator for a 74 Chevrolet Impala. I realized that there's a lot of different types for my car. Can you please help me and explain what are the difference? Thank you
Hi manuel medina,
First and foremost it is helpful to know the original dimensions of the radiator that was in your car. Then we can discuss upgrades if you’re having a cooling issue. Give us a call after you take your measurements. 1-330-630-0240. Thank you for watching!
Is anyone gonna say anything about that intro, how mans’ hands were in the danger zone holding that fan 🤔😳
what should I get for my 488cid v10?
Steve your correct but I guess what that guy was trying to say it "loads the electric system" like takes more electricity and need to work harder to sustain its power. There are some math that could help choosing a fan or other stuff you add to the system. Or upgrade your alternator.
I decided to go with an electric fan on my 79 Pontiac Firebird. But I have a 4 row radiator. So I have to use a pusher fan rather than a puller?
Hi number3665,
When possible always use a puller fan. That way the fan motor and any attachment hardware are not in the way of airflow. By doing this you maximize the available cooling surface area. Also, use as much fan (physical size) as is possible in a given application, even if that means using 2 fans. When using one large fan always build a shroud. That way, that one large fan will be trying pulling air across the entire radiator surface. Make sure too that all the cooling fins are straight as possible for maximum cooling.
It's not as powerful as I thought it would be, but it works very well. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGjG43--gYqIoT4Xkur2PqCrtbKwTv2h6 There are three options to circulate air, and best of all a remote control for us lazy people. Installation was a breeze (no pun intended). It actually took longer to open the box then it did putting the side extenders on and sitting it in the window opening. It's a perfect alternative when you want airflow, but not the AC. Just might order another one for a different room. UPDATE: Bought another one like I said. They work great. Why not have two...
It may say 14 volts but it is actually only holding the gauge there until you kill it. It prob will take some RPM to reach full output and fully charge your batt. The specs on each alternator vary but at certain RPM it will reach full output not at any RPM. So it is regulated but can only do so much at certain RPM. Voltage is only half the story. Its a good reference for the system as a whole but only half of what is taking place. If you can only have one gauge volts is better.
I am looking for a pusher type fan to go in front of the AC condenser on a Nissan silvia S13 that has a CA18DET engine. I am running the stock fan that has the fan clutch and am looking for the correct size just to help the condenser cool the AC system. Do you have an idea what blade size would be acceptable and it must also be thin. From what I have seen some S13 models came stock with a condenser fan but mine is a right hand drive model that was imported from Japan. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Rick Masters,
Get some measurements on what will fit in the space available and give us a call on the tech line, we’ll help you match something up. 1-330-630-0240. Thanks for watching, we look forward to your call!
Not trying to argue or insult either but its just not quite as simple as U put it is all. =]
pullers are better, when debris gets sucked, it wont have much force when it hits the radiator fins plus it will likely fall of from vibration, while if it was pusher, when the blade hits like a pebble or rock, it travels faster damaging the fins and the blades. plus the fan motor doesnt like being wet all the time like when you go through a car wash.
Bob Harvey, I added a 3000 cfm electric fan to my Triumph TR8 3.5 liter V8, the fan cools the engine but even it I turn on the fan (I have an additional switch to) as I start the engine the engine heat up and pegs the temperature gauge before the fans cools the engine down to normal temp --what do you think causes this to happen
+BOB HARVEY ,
It is possible the thermostat is malfunctioning, requiring more than a normal amount of temperature to open initially.
Thanks, does Summit have a 160F opening thermostat that would fit the TR8? (3.5 liter v8..used in Rover and dating back to turbocharged 62 Buicks) I have replace the stock thermostat (I think it opens at 212F so I don't it is a malfunction. I think it maybe because I have modified the engine with a 4 barrel cab, a competition cam and headers --mit heats up quickly. What do you think? I am also using waterless coolant. Your thoughts?
Small ass V8
Adding another 8-15 amp load may not seem significant but over time its still robbing HP that you freed up by removing the mechanical fan is my point. Example if a 100 amp alternator reaches full output at 3000 RPM and this added load causes it to remain at full output longer then your spinning your wheels. Plus if it never fully charges the batt then you are going backwards. It may take a month or more but sooner or later you may have to slap the old charger on it to fully top it off.
I don't think you fully grasp the electrical system on your vehicle. Alternators are measured in current output not voltage. Current and voltage are two totaly different things. A volt gauge is nothing but a reference so you know the whole system is ok or working. The true measure of an alternators output is an ammeter. Vehicles use to have them too. It is a direct connection to the alternator and the only way to know whether it is at full charge or not.
can increased draw on the alt. really cause a loss in hp? i know the electric output would be decreased, but would that really increase drag?
Hi americanmusclecar100,
As electrical load increases, so does the drag on the belt/crankshaft. That increased load takes power to turn. That’s less horsepower going to the wheels ultimately!
Quick flicks. 25 second intro.
I've herd that s blade fans are less efficient than straight blade fans is that true
Hi 99topramen,
Straight blade fans provide maximum cooling but, they are noisy . Curved blade fans sacrifice small amounts of efficiency in return for a quieter fan. If noise is a concern, then go with a curved blade. If optimum performance is key, use a straight blade fan/s.
thanks bro off to the junkyard i go
The louder the better cooling or the quieter the better cooling?
Richie Sisneros depends. you can have a loud fan with a low efficiency blade on it
Engine masters ( which I can no longer watch even though I am prepared to pay for it. Way pissed) did a comparison on fans & the difference was as much as 30hp. This was on a dyno so the deck a little stacked?
Hi, and thanks for the informative video. Quick question. I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 with the I6 258, a 2 core radiator with the serpentine belt. I am running really hot at low RPM (which low rpm is normal on the trail). I am looking at your flexlite fan 2500cfm. However I will be swapping my motor to a 4.7 stroker early next year with fuel injection. Is the 2500cfm fan still enough cooling for the bigger motor. And once I remove my mech fan will switching my belt system be a problem? Thanks!!!!
your cj happen to have the dana 44 rear end? if so id like to buy it. ive got an 85
Can you have an electric fan on both sides of the radiator ?
Hi David Romero,
This really is not a good idea. The fan on the front of the radiator actually ends up being a restriction to the rear mounted fan. It is best to try and pull all your air through the radiator even if that means mounting 2 fans in a shroud!
I have a v6 3.0 can i go above 2000 cfm?
my belt fan is on th esame wheel as my water pump my loss of power cause thers no extra wheels to spin
i cant find equal strength fans. one 16" fan says 2500cfm. two 10" fans say 850cfm each. how in the world could two 10"s be better?
sweetiepiejer ,
Two fans spread out the flow of air across the core of the radiator thus using more surface area to dissipate more heat!
Would a dodge 4.7L be a small v8?
Yes!
Just because its a 100 amp alternator it must be at a specific RPM to reach that. The point is as others have said and try to get across is adding a electric fan does not free up all the HP a mechanical fan uses. At an idle it may be significant but the alternator will remain fully loaded up to its max output at a certain RPM thus adding more load back onto the engine. So it is false to say it frees up all or even most of the HP a mechanical fan uses.
I have 3"inch radiator,what fan type I need?
+Vicente Dominguez ,
We need some additional information from you. Can you please call our tech line at 1-330-630-0240.
Thanks!
+Summit Racing its a 95 chevy 1500 5.7 tbi with a 160 temperature thermostat
It kills me every time I hear someone say an electric fan doesn't take horsepower. Did you forget that it takes horsepower to create the extra electrical current to run the fan. If anything it takes more not less since no electrical component has 100% efficiency. If you don't believe me just full field an alternator some time the belt will squeal and if you disconnect the IAC motor you just might make the motor die. Yeah no horsepower is needed to run electrical components.
Sean Cross yeah thats true but your only drawing 7-14 amps so i dont know my self how much that would effect the load, hp loss, and at high speeds 60-75 mph u dont even need a fan. i like they way your thinking i was about to say the same thing until i read what u said. most of today's alts are making 125 amps out put (max out put). also a maniacal fan will kick on about 170-180 an electric fan will kick on about 180 unless u get a 160 temp sensor. some thing think about any ways i know ur right but how much of a change on the alt. , vs hp loss on a maniacal fan they say its 14hp on the maniacal fan i dont see it being that much with the high load on the alt. people do say they get better fuel mileage and better engine temps.
like sweetiepiejer says
it's true what you say, electric fans do take horsepower, only way less than a mechanical fan does
it's just something that's been proven time over time over time
electric fans need less hp to get more cooling power
that is why i have secondary battery for cooling fans and head lights and more (on demand)completly independent from my primary alternator.And with that system on a Volvo 850 Turbo,I control all my engine's extraction heat with this system,hood and FW arches,also using headlights cleaning sprays,re-directed on the intercooler,with bigger tank and pump....!!!!Engine almost too cold now.. !!!
joe coquerre good idea but how does it get recharged
The point everybody misses here is a clutch fan robs power all the time...when crusing, stiped, launching whatever...a thermo setup like mine does not ever come on while im doing ocer 15kmh or so. Even on 43 degree days. Only about 4 or 5 seconds after i stop does it come on. Bow some of that power/elctrucity to run them come from the battery but at 15a each most does come from the alternater. So yes when their on they draw power from the motor but thats only when im stoped, i dont care if i have 10/20 less Hp when stoped. I care when im driving/ accelerateing
What’s the part number to the dual fan on your left?
I have understand nothing.. Thanks tho
Puller fans are better than pusher fans according with the video right??? But I think these have a disadvantage. They would never take fresh air for cooling themselves and could shorten the useful life of their electric rotor.. They always are taking very hot air.
first of all, they are made to withstand those temperatures also, when the pullers provide better cooling, they need to cool less time than the pushers it wont make that much of a difference
But on the other hand, pusher fans impede airflow when the vehicle is moving.
i have lots of Fans!. 😀🖒
Your company could get a lot of crossover interest if you fabricated a pc case that uses your fans on an overclock build. PC enthusiasts love extreme case mods and cooling solutions and tend to have fat wallets.
Current draw is just as important. I've only used electric fans once, back in '90, and since then I've stayed away from them. For an every day street driven vehicle, parasitic losses from a belt driven fan are negligible. Belt driven fans (non-clutch style) will never fail. Electric fans can fail, short/pop fuses, and draw enough power to give you either battery or alternator problems over time. So I stay away from them.
TargaWheels lolz so you dont have alternator in your car ? go and watch engine masters video on mechanical fan .. your engine is loosing 40 hp ')
I knew someone wouldn't catch it. "For an every day street driven vehicle". You're not touching your real horsepower numbers in a street driven vehicle, or any vehicle, until you get past 3000 rpm. With traffic 85-90% of my daily drive, horsepower losses are insignificant. When you're sitting in traffic your alternator isn't running at full output. On top of that electric fans are drawing full current. Your current driving situation dictates your fan set-up. Just as cam/heads/carb/timing, trans, rear gear, etc. are dictated by what your driving situation is. If anything, TORQUE is more important for a daily street driven vehicle. But hey, if you're running 120mph at 4500rpm to and from work every day, by all means, build for horsepower. If you go beyond Engine Masters and actually watch all of the Roadkill episodes, you'll see they do have cars that are street-geared/tame cars. But if they have steeper gears, they compensate by using a Gear Vendors overdrive so they can have the best of both worlds. Until someone gives me one, I won't be buying one, because again...I don't need it because of my driving situation.
TargaWheels so you are genius so thats why every new cars have electric fan .. they are all dumb :)
with a belt driven fan, it doesnt matter if youre going fast or slow, your engine is still turning that fan and the faster it spins the more power it robs due to wind resistance even at idle
yes electric fans can have quite the current draw but it only spikes when the fans start up, just like when you accelerate, you use more gas to get going than when you do while cruising, just my 2 cents
Dave you’re a fucking goof, talking into a fan like a child