Man! Y’all get big time brownie points for being so attentive to questions and comments! Earned yourself a sub! Thanks for the detailed response to Robert Bryant’s (and others) questions. I just got into tree trimming myself and have been using the Blake’s hitch, thought it would be versatile for hunting and boom here the idea is already being used! Great videos keep up the great work!
This is a great explanation. If I could offer up suggestion for discussion: Using a length of accessory cord with a bowline in one end for the foot, and hitched to the rope with another blake's hitch makes climbing much easier. no hip-thrusting. You just slide the hitch up til your leg is comfortably bent and press up with the legs and pull down on the running line. When you've stood up, sit back in the saddle, slide the foot loop up and repeat. To maximize this setup, you'll want to have your bridge blake's hitch a bit long so you can get more stroke with your arms, you just obviously don't want it out of reach; otherwise you can't rappel.
@rs i watched a video the other day where the climber had an ascender on one foot and a foot loop with a prusik i believe. and he basically walked right up the rope.
So happy I stumbled across your channel! This is a game changer for where/how I hunt! AMAZING!! I liked, subbed and will share this with my buddies. Great stuff!! Thanks so much, Man!!
The 52 minute video talked about this some, but this Quick Tips video answers a question 🙋♂️ that I had about once you climb up to the desired hunting height. Thank you 🙏🏻 for sharing this. I look forward to getting my tree saddle and learning more hands on but in a safe manner. 🌳🌲🏹🦌
Robert Long That’s great Robert. You could start a Oklahoma saddle hunters channel. Feel free to use any content, tips , ideas. We have lots of people starting their own state channel and borrowing content from our page. If it helps get the word out absolutely. If you like us on Facebook NY Saddle Hunter Forum it’s a bit easier to message each other. Best of luck to you !!!
Thank's Joe, Do you guys avoid pine tree's- I can see the rope getting gummed up with sap. For anyone else watching, this method is easier than it looks- don't hesitate to try. I think it's also at least as safe or even safer than other methods.
Most of the places that I hunt there's not a lot of pine trees anyway so I've never actually tried this method in a pine tree but I could see that the sap might end up being an issue plus a pine trees branches make it very busy and it would be difficult to throw a throw ball line up into itwithout it getting tangled so this method probably wouldn't be the best idea to get up into that type of tree
The fact that I can get up there in a stealthy manner & sit comfortable makes it good. When it comes 2 the dreaded descending when u might have cold feet & hands make it great. To get 2 the bottom safely & all I have 2 do is pickup my bow & rope then go, BRILLIANT!
It's called a double Blakes hitch, or a self-tending Blakes hitch. It works okay but it created a lot of friction and the rope doesn't progress smoothly the majority of the time. You're best off situating a micro pulley below your Blakes hitch (or any other friction hitch) and attach it to the terminated end of your rope slightly above your hitch. This allows the pulley to seamlessly progress your hitch. You can get a micro pulley for like $15. The climbing arborist has a good video on it. I think its called prusik with tending pulley.
@@gregbrightman1205 only when I'm on my tether. If I stay on my climbing line there's no prussic not in use. My prussic is 8mm accessory cord that's larger than what comes with the Tethrd mantis saddle which looks like 6mm. However I don't just trust my prusic . I always wrap the excess of my tether through the caribiner on my tether and do a double half hitch. This makes it safer in case my prusic fails and it keeps the extra rope tied up nicely and out of the way
Its interesting to see how the name of tools can very, depending on the region you're in. I call your tether, a lanyard/buck strap. Guess things are different because you are using a rock climbing saddle, instead of a tree climbing saddle. Tree saddles have d rings on the side for work positioning. FYI/ SRT is way easier on the body, & allows you to advance yourself up the tree quicker. DRT forces you to advance twice as much rope, while SRT allows you to advance twice as fast. You get to advance yourself quicker, because you get to keep every Inch that you move. Unlike DRT, which forces you to move 2ft of rope....to move 1ft. It's just something to look into, but requires a much more technical understanding of the system & tools used. I enjoyed the content, & wish you all the best! STAY SAFE
Thanks if you look at some of the other videos on our channel we feature SRT as well. We also made videos showing variations of DRT using footloop, handascender with a footloop etc. That's the beauty of these rope climbing methods there's lots of different was to safely ascend the rope and with a saddle you can utilize these methods. The saddle in this video is A Tethrd Mantis that has D rings as well . Thanks for watching and for your comment. Climb safe !
Love your guys stuff I’ve learned most everything I know on saddle hunting setup from your videos. And I know this is an older video and maybe somebody said something already but your carabiner was locked open on your descent portion of this. I don’t want to be negative as I know this is just a demonstration. Just wanted to say be careful out there and always double check. Again great content!
I'm stoked that this vid popped up for me..very informative bro thanks man you got a subscriber out of me friend looking thru your vids refreshing myself with your technics thanks for keeping them interesting and informative!!! Can't wait to see more vids cheer bruv, Jerbs.
Can I tie directly into my Amstel bridge built in with my tethrd phantom for the climb or would you recommend some other method? Just curious your honest opinion on that. Thanks
My son and I have been messing around with drt in the backyard. He has an H2 saddle. We’ve been using a 30’ section of Yale Blaze rope that we use for lifelines when we use solid sticks and lock on stands. We have found that our Blake’s hitch doesn’t hold securely unless we add another wrap to the Blake’s hitch. Just putting that out there in case anyone else is practicing before they make an investment in the predator line
Not trying to butt in on someone else’s channel but I would get a good rope. I would not try to change the way you tie the Blake’s hitch. I have professionally climbed trees for 22 years. The Blake’s hitch is one of the safest knots for tree climbing if tied correctly. If tied incorrectly it’s a dead mans knot. There are plenty of dead tree climbers that tried to reinvent the wheel. We don’t need a bunch of dead deer hunters changing the knots that hundreds of thousands of tree climbers us with no problems and go home safe everyday!!!
I picked up a used Guidos Web saddle today, its heaver than what your using. Cant wait to go out and practice! I plan to use a rock climbing harness to climb.
I’ll say one thing for sure you are dedicated. Dad gum lightning storm and your rolling out a tree climbing video. That video would have just had to wait if it would have been me. You did do a good job on it btw!!!
Great video. What’s the length of the rope from the half hitch of carabiner to the tag end? Looks to be about 4 ft or so. Does it need to be a certain length? Thanks.
Where is the best place to get a second bridge? Iv watched almost all your videos. I just got my phantom saddle and wesspur set up. Iv been playing with it for 2 days thankfully I just watched this video because I’m like somethings not right (made my bridge super short but it sucks up trying to move and shoot). I had another question I feel like the most common reaction when people panic is to squeeze and grab, any safety ideas for if someone was to be descending to fast and they squeeze the knot panicking and they just go faster, maybe another prusic half way down or something to jam up the Blake? It happen to me the first time and I was like wow this might be a problem for some people. I love your videos thank god you guys put these out. I’m actually gunna be able to be in the saddle for this season. Keep doing what you’re doing !
So you can buy replacement arborist saddle bridge and incorporate one into your saddle. If you use NYSH promo code you should get 10% discount Replacement Bridges for Arborist Harnesses "Replacement Bridges for Arborist Harnesses" www.wesspur.com/saddles/replacement-bridges.html As for decending you want one hand on the hitch the other controlling the line to feed it through the hitch and always decend slowly it protects your rope from friction heat and it will last years if you decend slowly plus its safer
@@NYSaddleHunter thank you is that through wesspur? I used your promo code when I bought my drt set up 👍🏻sorry answered my own question I’m on the website now, they have multiple options and thickness do you have a recommendation?
@@NorthEastHunter27 Sorry for the delayed response. I installed the weaver cougar on a saddle I had and it worked out well however I'm not sure if some of the other options might have been better?
New saddle hunter from Brooklyn! Really glad I stumbled on your channel! Maybe I missed this in another video but what should we look for in regard to limb size in order to hold our weight?
First thing is it must be alive and healthy . The limb size only matters when you're out on a limb away from the trunk. In that case I like to as a rule of thumb stick with 4" diameter or better but the farther you go out the less strength there is. We don't climbing hanging from a limb we climb with our rope "THROUGH THE CROTCH" of a limb. So that's the strong part of the tree. I also like to keep the trunk between both ends of the line . That gives you the most strength and your angle when you climb up high is better. Good luck be safe. Check out this vid to get the techniqueua-cam.com/video/UF-Yk3c6B2s/v-deo.html
Does the drt cause a lot of wear and tear on the rope? Is there a way to spare your lifeline from all the friction or am I missing something....I stumbled across saddle hunting a few years ago after thinking there had to be a better way but the websites were in their infancy and so was UA-cam. I’d kinda forgotten about it and then it dawned on me tree climbers might do something without sticks. Then I found you guys. If you ever have the time a beginning to end video for someone new to saddle/drt climbing would be helpful. I’ve seen a few videos and haven’t seen any lengthy videos going from start to end. When you’re good at something it’s hard to remember a time when you had never thrown a line or descended, etc. not that you haven’t covered a lot of good information but if I’m out in the field practicing I’d like it all in one video.
I take it back. The very next video after this in my saved playlist addressed 90% of my questions. Thanks for the demo! Does the limb friction destroy the rope or is it minimal wear and tear?
@@willa498 HogFan Arborists who use this method daily and climb 2 to 3 times as high and really abuse their rope generally get a year or more out of a good quality rope like samson predator or yale poison ivy. They usually replace their ropes annually just to be extra safe . Even the most avid hunter would take many years to put that kind of wear on a rope. You should inspect your rope before each climb, however I expect to get about 3-5 years out of my rope . Most saddles have an expiration date. I plan to rotate rope with saddles assuming my inspections dont cause me to want to replace a rope sooner. At the hights we climb 20-25' friction isnt an issue for tree or rope in most tree types we climb here usually oaks, maples , hardwoods. We dont climb pines do to sap can ruin your rope . If your concerned you could implement whats called a cambium friction saver. We never use them in a hunting situation because its more work to install but if someone felt the need its pretty easy to install and actually makes climbing a little easier. Thanks for watching and for your question , and best of luck this season!
HogFan07 Minimal as long as your not descending out of the tree like a Army Ranger ( Fast and Furious ). You should be able to enjoy several seasons using the same rope . In the tree care industry. I would climb several times each day 5-6 days every week on the same line. As hunters we might use it a few to several times a week for the hunting season . But always with careful inspection . Rotating your rope from time to time will decrease wear and add to the life of your rope . Good luck.
What size rope did you use for the Prusik knot that you tied the tail end to? I had some rope but it wouldn't stay tight enough to ride up the line.TIA
How much rope do you recommend for wanting to climb 20-30 feet? Also I wanna thank you guys for these videos it has really sparked my interest in saddle hunting not having to pack sticks and all that other mess lol
Thankyou for the support !!! If your gonna climb DRT - double Rope Technique. Your gonna need double the height you’ll want to climb. If you choose SRT- single rope technique. I would allow for 30’ plus and extra 5 ‘ for your girth hitch. Keep in mind not all trees will have limbs at your preferred height. You can almost guarantee the tree you’ll need to get in will either have a limb to low or to high. This is the reason we carry 75 ‘ . Just in case the limb is beyond 30’.
75' 11.4 mm predator climbing line or equivalent. Yale Bandit line works good too. 100' 3mm throw line 14 oz throw ball Small diddy bag to store throw line. Saddle we like Aerohunter Kestral flex or tethrd mantis .
@@NYSaddleHunter Okay awesome! I think I have it all figured out then! and that second knot you're referring to goes back above me on the main line, correct?
@@ozzyj94 yes correct, it needs to be above you and no slack between the second knot and the main blakes hitch so that everytime you advance the rope over the limb it pulls the blake hitch up with it
@@NYSaddleHunter okay great! Have you guys ever experimented with friction savers, or a device to keep the main rope from getting in a bind on the limb? Just curious if its necessary or even a big deal.
I haven’t used it . One thing you want to make sure Any rope you use for DRT has to have superior knot tying capabilities in order for your hitch not to slip . It’s plenty dynamic at 3.3 % . The one thing I personally don’t like is that it’s a 8 mm rope . I’m climbing on Predator witch is 11.4 mm. That’s about the smallest I will go. Anything that size or closer to 1/2 “ feels better in your hand when climbing. Especially when wet . DRT is a Double Rope Technique. Which means your rope is doubled over . So if your length is 75’ your maximum height will be somewhere around 37.5 ‘ to 40 depending on your height. . A little trick to use if it’s the killing tree and you have to be in it. You can bring in one stick if your limb height is a bit beyond 40 ‘ Keep in mind this is not your actual platform height . PS. If your on the fence about Oplux. and Predator is out of order Yale Bandit or Poison Ivy are a great substitute . Good luck James. Go In Light Come Out Heavy !!!
Derrick 11.4 mm predator rope from a arborist supply called Wesspur . Its double braid arborist rope. It is not static rope. Static rope does not have the same knot tieing characteristics as arborist rope like predator or another good rope is yale bandit.
No dumb questions on here. Yes. It doubles as a harness as well. In some spots we have set stands we’ve been hunting for yrs . The saddle gives us more mobility being able to shoot either side of tree. And keeps us safer than a traditional harness especially when you add the DRT method to the equation.
NY Saddle Hunter thanks. I currently use a rock climbing harness and climber stands. I have hang and hunt setups too but seems like they weigh more unless you heavily modify them and even then are still are slightly heavier than my heaviest climber. Interested in saddle hunting for the weight and mobility. Your videos are great. I will likely try this at some point and practice for nest season.
Heres how I installed my short bridge ua-cam.com/video/DIz9o0ug0LA/v-deo.html This is what I used for rope for my short bridge. ROPE Logic Split Tail Bee-Line G-Spliced Single Eye Rope, Black, 10mm x 5' www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGLW3HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zcM0Db4YRHQFZ
Thank you for the video. I watch alot of your videos. However, this one was a great learning lesson for my son. As we watched I noticed a very scary life threatening error made in this video. I am surprsied no one else caught it. Or maybe they have? Now, i am new to saddle hunting but when my son says, "so i keep my carabiner open like that"? I looked up and was shocked. Check your climbing line you have your carabiner lock down so it is not closing. oops Thanks for all your advice. we gotta make sure we are not teaching a clueless person wrong technique
Eric Good eye ! We made a safety video touching on slowing down when climbing for safety. If you notice in this video Im rushing because of a thunder storm thats coming and in my haste I failed to close the gate on my caribiner . A 3 point spring carabiner would eliminate this risk, but thats how easy it can happen and yes its a perfect example of why we should never rush a d should check each conection point , knots, caribiners etc. My focus was on showing how I transition but in my rush to quickly wrap things up I heard the click but didnt lock it and I absolutly should have to teach it properly . So thanks for pointing that out . I had not noticed that myself . Im glad you saw this and it taught your son that valuable lesson
As an arborist who climbs 5 days a week as a General rule they would replace a climbing line annually but in a hunting situation your not going to put nearly that kind of abuse on a rope in many years so I inspect my line before or after each climb but I won't think about changing out my rope for maybe 5 years or more. My current rope is 3 years old and we climb often and it's like new
@@NYSaddleHunter thanks i was curious to the damage bark actually does to the rope because my rope will be here Monday and can't wait to start practicing.
@@bamabiker Great , good luck. We just filmed some DRT climbing with two different variations today . The video should be uploaded in a few days. I'm really liking DRT with a foot loop. Works really well . Climb safe & Best of luck !
Your rope is like a tether even if your tie in point is much higher it still by gravity wants to pull you in to the tree , you can work from your tie in but if you feel unsteady you can always use your lineman also to secure you to the trunk while you set your platform but usually thats only necassary on a tree with a lean
Dustin In this video I'm wearing a Tethrd mantis saddle. The short bridge is tied into the same loops as my Amsteel bridge that comes with the Mantis saddle. If you watch this video I show how I installed my short bridge ua-cam.com/video/DIz9o0ug0LA/v-deo.html
Yes one of the reasons we got into saddle hunting was because we hunt way back on public to get away from the crowds and wanted a lighter more mobile way to get way back quietly, and with less weight and gear to hump in. I loved sitting in my summit climber I hated carrying it in and out . The saddle eliminates the stand . I still use sticks at times but whenever I can I like to use rope climbing methods DRT/ SRT because it's only 5lbs of gear to climb vast high as 35' and it's faster, easier to climb in and out plus its actually more fun to climb this way. And its because we hunt public so often that saddle hunting is so attractive to us
NY Saddle Hunter good to hear, I don’t have the lightest setup for public, I have a 20lb strap on stand and 20lb worth of sticks. I’ve hiking in before daylight and setup but it was kind of a pain so I’m considering leaving my stand up there and either brining a couple sticks or leaving a small rope over a limb and when I come out at sunrise I strap on my climbing rope and ascend. Public land sure can be a pain and I have been wanting property for so long but it is expensive. Where in NY y’all from? I’m south of buf
@@theoutdoorangler1173 we are in the Hudson valley Dutchess county just south of Poughkeepsie but we just picked up a 328 acre lease in The finger lakes region Livingston county
NY Saddle Hunter I’m not too far from Livingston, they got great populations of deer. I primarily hunt Cattarragus which is also money. Last year was my first time out and skunked, this year I hope to kill somethin
Thanks for the video. very good. I was quite turned off by some others who kept advocating the ropeman and using it for life support. Also in 2017 I built the eagles nest molle 2 but got all kinds of flack from guys on the sh forum who cant think out side of the box. then in 2018 the jx3 came along using some of my ideas. but that is ok I just built it for myself it has way too many functions for your average joe and is innovated past the jx3 right off the bench. but tree guys like it because they know how to use the features. like the adjustable bridge and the quick adjustable dee rings even the rear has a semi floating d ring for regular stand usage and redirects. I think the weight is a factor for most at 9#. but then again I could be wrong. it is kinda a big guy stand. for hunting aggressive bear country I feel safer having my back protected from a bear attack with the frame. thanks for your video
Bob I'd love to see your eagles nest saddle. I'm a fan of the JX3, and yours sounds interesting . I've found that on some forums If you think outside the box some people feel like they have to rain on your parade rather then recognize we each have different tastes and preferences and what you and I might like may differ from others and so long as it's safe and works if you like it that's all that really matters. I love to see all the great ideas people have .
I was curious what your thoughts are on using a friction saver where the rope contacts the tree limb or if it's even necessary? I see conflicting opinions when people are discussing DRT etc. Do you see much wear on your ropes in general? If so, how often are you replacing etc? Great content BTW guys! Thanks again
We've not been using friction savers while hunting. It would protect the tree and the rope but I've not noticed any impact on my rope or damage to the tree I climb in at home , a maple. I've not felt the need to use them in a hunting situation but some guys do use them and they'll make it that much easier to climb just requires you to take a little more time to install them
Since SRT & DRT are considered standards in the arborist industry. All things being equal as far as education, user confidence and equipment maintenance. Would you consider this method of tree climbing safer compared to other methods such as climbing sticks and climbers that are marketed to hunters. One would assume an arborist who climbs trees for a living has a better and proven safer method of climbing trees
Exactly David, it only makes sense if your climbing trees to look to what pros do, to do it efficiently and safely. In my opinion Arborist rope climbing methods are safer , that's not to say sticks or climbers are not safe they can be with a lineman belt or tether but I think we can learn a lot from pros and with a saddle you can climb like a pro
David. The one aspect of SRT or DRT is that your rope is basically your safety line and your always on it. Even if you decide to use your tether once your at hunting height . You would never come off your rope until you were securely tethered in first . And reverse these steps when your ready to descend Good luck !!!
I agree, this is the conclusion I came too as well as I continued to watch several of your videos. It's interesting as I've read the debates on the saddlehunter forum of those that don't agree with RCH/Saddle Harness being used to climb and hunt from in a tree. Yet, I still kept my intrigue and continued researching until I came upon your comparison videos on Thether vs Aerohunter which led to several other videos which explained the method's very clearly and well presented, with the kind of mental attitude and thinking I respect and admire as an OIF Vet, Very professional, concise, laid back and comprehensible. I was a little put off by the promo videos I've seen from Thether, came across too marketing/gimmicky for my taste but this info definitely opened up my eyes on it.
If your knot isn't advancing it might be slipping on your tag end knot/ tending knot. Some times you have to play with the height. Of it , you want no slack in the bridge from the main Blake's hitch to your tending knot. If your tending knot slips it won't work ,make sure that tending knot won't slip, and theres no slack . Some times it takes a little adjustment to get it to work good. Good luck! Also you could also advance the knot by hand too. See if this video might help.ua-cam.com/video/UF-Yk3c6B2s/v-deo.html
Thanks for the advice, I was having a helleva time throwing that ball also, it was frustrating and funny at the same time, had to tie line to belt loop since it went like a rocket, it was one of those oh shit moments, there it goes.haha
@@10oclock12 Your welcome. Not sure if you saw these videos but we made a few on throwball. I found the throwball to be the most difficult part of our system. It's an easy concept but takes lots of practice to master. Check out these videos: ua-cam.com/video/BzPBQzlYMN4/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/GpVJd1Px9hc/v-deo.html
A lot of good a climbing stick does in nasty weather when your feet r cold, sometimes u have 2 hunt due 2 the date & I don't want 2 hit that hard ground
I'm curious of what kind of damage if any is done to the rope sliding over the bark with your weight on it? I am thinking of giving this a try but I'm big guy at 6' 4" and 325 lbs. Also in cold weather what kind of gloves are you using?
I don't believe your harming the tree at all that I'm aware of. However some tree bark I'd probably tough than others. I tend to hunt out of mostly oaks, beech, maples as where I hunt they are common and they have lots of good limbs which makes it easier to get your throw line where you want it For climbing I use pair of leather mechanics gloves . I can climb without them as I'm usually only going up Around 25' . But I practice with a inexpensive set of mechanics gloves from home Depot nothing special
NY Saddle Hunter thanks for that info. How about the rope? Any damage or wearing through the outer sleeve due to it rubbing overt the limb? How often are you replacing it? Thanks in advance.
@@jeffreyvanessendelft3755 Depending on the quality of the rope and the amount of times you climb you should get years out of a rope. A arborist who climbs daily at heights of 60' and beats up the rope with limbs falling on it and chainsaws usually replace their ropes as rule of thump annually. But in a hunting situation even if you hunted everyday for 3 months I wouldn't expect you'd need to replace a rope or even start thinking about it until after about three years possibly even five years. However just like your saddle itself and anything else that you're climbing with you should inspect it before you climb with it each time as long as you don't see anything that gives you cause for concern with the rope. I just bought 75 ft of predator line from wesspur 11.4 mil last October. Honestly I'll bet I'll hunt on that same line for a solid five years and probably replace it just out of pure precaution to being extra safe because it is a lifeline. and if you're the type of person that wants to just be ultra safe at all times change it out more frequently but as long as you don't see any defects in the rope and you're using it normal in a hunting situation I don't think you would have to worry about changing it out as frequently as an arborist would but if it makes you feel safer to replace the rope more frequently and you have the $ to do so that's your perogative. I think it's important also to remember that you should inspect it frequently four defects and store it away properly in a dry place. if it was left outside in the sun and rain all the time the UV might start to deteriorate it the elements deteriorate it but if it's kept indoors in a good atmosphere and it's not beat up by chainsaws and that sort of thing It will last year's at least as long as the saddle you're using it in. So just always inspect it to be safe.
@@NYSaddleHunter I was thinking that the usual inspections would be taken to prevent a "quick ride" down. Just wanted that info of how long a hunter would get out of the rope. I am waiting for the predator rope to be back in stock to order 100 feet, ( a little extra for a short bridge and miscellanies uses ). Thanks for all the info and videos, it is much appreciated.
Have you ever tried a 2nd blakes hitch instead of the prusic thus requiring only the climbing line as you in theory could eliminate the CARBINER love the vids learned alot
Yes that's the way I did it always in the past but I had an extra prussic and figured it's just easier to tie in and adjust for me but you can do it either way
Joe has been called out on this many times in this video. One of the reasons we like seeing it criticized so much is to show anyone can make mistakes. We all need to scrutinize our gear constantly. Being in a hurry can sometimes lead to trouble !!! We also love that our viewers are paying close attention. Not everyone noticed the Biner was not properly locked Good eyes !!!
I like how you’re always tied in. Something I learned when climbing and cutting down trees. You must have some experience as an arborist. Unlike some videos I see guy’s climbing without being tied in and no safety line…. That’s not a smart move. Good vid👍
As we say climbing is inherently dangerous. Professional arborists use this method safely every day. We recommend people seek professional training. It's no different than firearms . If you're properly trained and it's done right it's very safe. Done wrong even driving is unsafe if you don't do it right.
Static rope is not usually a good choice for DRT because it doesn't have the same knot characteristics. If you already have the rope and are trying to avoid purchasing a arborist climbing line that works good for your Blake's hitch you might want to try a 10mm Bee line . You could use the BW Assualt line tied to the caribiner ,clip in to your bridge on your saddle , use a Bee line for the climbing hitch. Might be worth a try?
You can get complete DRT climbing kits here
www.Newyorksaddlehunter.com
No fuss video on drt... i ordered my system after your video. Hats off for such to the point video
Here you go again with a terrific instructional video! Thanks for your time. Yes, I am already looking forward to the season next year.
Man! Y’all get big time brownie points for being so attentive to questions and comments! Earned yourself a sub! Thanks for the detailed response to Robert Bryant’s (and others) questions. I just got into tree trimming myself and have been using the Blake’s hitch, thought it would be versatile for hunting and boom here the idea is already being used! Great videos keep up the great work!
Thanks Great minds think alike !
This is a great explanation. If I could offer up suggestion for discussion: Using a length of accessory cord with a bowline in one end for the foot, and hitched to the rope with another blake's hitch makes climbing much easier. no hip-thrusting. You just slide the hitch up til your leg is comfortably bent and press up with the legs and pull down on the running line. When you've stood up, sit back in the saddle, slide the foot loop up and repeat. To maximize this setup, you'll want to have your bridge blake's hitch a bit long so you can get more stroke with your arms, you just obviously don't want it out of reach; otherwise you can't rappel.
so basically like using a foot ascender?
@rs i watched a video the other day where the climber had an ascender on one foot and a foot loop with a prusik i believe. and he basically walked right up the rope.
@rs since i made this comment, it seems like NY Saddle Hunter has done a video based on my suggestion. ua-cam.com/video/4L1OO3F7Le8/v-deo.html
4 years later and i want to say thenk you. Will be a game changer on how i hunt using trees from now on. Thanks
You guys do a hell of a job with your videos. I really like this method and will be trying it
Thank you so much for all this important information I really appreciate it.
I am fan now 🤗
Glad you made it out of the tree before the storm took you out!
Me too
So happy I stumbled across your channel! This is a game changer for where/how I hunt! AMAZING!! I liked, subbed and will share this with my buddies. Great stuff!! Thanks so much, Man!!
Mike
Thanks we really appreciate the positive feedback , good luck. If you have any questions let us know !
The 52 minute video talked about this some, but this Quick Tips video answers a question 🙋♂️ that I had about once you climb up to the desired hunting height. Thank you 🙏🏻 for sharing this. I look forward to getting my tree saddle and learning more hands on but in a safe manner. 🌳🌲🏹🦌
Best of luck Forrest, I hope you enjoy this style as much as we do. Climb safe !
Enjoy the videos. Will be using DRT for the first time as soon as I get my new saddle from Aero Hunter. Appreciate all the videos!!!
Appreciate the support. Good luck Robert !!!
NY Saddle Hunter If you ever need anyone here in Oklahoma to help out saddle hunters just let me know. Robert Long 918-527-4050
Robert Long That’s great Robert. You could start a Oklahoma saddle hunters channel. Feel free to use any content, tips , ideas. We have lots of people starting their own state channel and borrowing content from our page. If it helps get the word out absolutely. If you like us on Facebook NY Saddle Hunter Forum it’s a bit easier to message each other.
Best of luck to you !!!
NY Saddle Hunter I will definitely msg you on Facebook
How do I find or message you on FB directly without going thru NY saddle hunter nation group?
Glad I stumbled on this channel! Great videos keep up the great vids guys.
Thank you. Good luck hunting !
I'll definitely be practicing this for next season here in Illinois. Thanks for the good Info keep it coming!
Thanks John !
Thank's Joe, Do you guys avoid pine tree's- I can see the rope getting gummed up with sap. For anyone else watching, this method is easier than it looks- don't hesitate to try. I think it's also at least as safe or even safer than other methods.
Most of the places that I hunt there's not a lot of pine trees anyway so I've never actually tried this method in a pine tree but I could see that the sap might end up being an issue plus a pine trees branches make it very busy and it would be difficult to throw a throw ball line up into itwithout it getting tangled so this method probably wouldn't be the best idea to get up into that type of tree
The fact that I can get up there in a stealthy manner & sit comfortable makes it good. When it comes 2 the dreaded descending when u might have cold feet & hands make it great. To get 2 the bottom safely & all I have 2 do is pickup my bow & rope then go, BRILLIANT!
I saw another technique using a second Blake's hitch in place of the prusik you're using. It was really cool.
If your referring to DRT. Yes the second Blake’s hitch tends the first as you climb . Makes it a easier and more efficient .
It's called a double Blakes hitch, or a self-tending Blakes hitch. It works okay but it created a lot of friction and the rope doesn't progress smoothly the majority of the time. You're best off situating a micro pulley below your Blakes hitch (or any other friction hitch) and attach it to the terminated end of your rope slightly above your hitch. This allows the pulley to seamlessly progress your hitch. You can get a micro pulley for like $15. The climbing arborist has a good video on it. I think its called prusik with tending pulley.
I have two questions:
1.) did you make your shorter climbing bridge, and if so, what did you use?
2.) what rope do you use for your prusik knot?
Yes I added my own short bridge for climbing. My short bridge is made of a 10mm Bee line split tail.
My prusic's are 8mm accessory cord
Logan
Yes I added my own short bridge for climbing. My short bridge is made of a 10mm Bee line split tail.
My prusic's are 8mm accessory cord
@@NYSaddleHunter so basically all of your weight is on 8mm accessory cord
@@gregbrightman1205 only when I'm on my tether. If I stay on my climbing line there's no prussic not in use.
My prussic is 8mm accessory cord that's larger than what comes with the Tethrd mantis saddle which looks like 6mm.
However I don't just trust my prusic . I always wrap the excess of my tether through the caribiner on my tether and do a double half hitch.
This makes it safer in case my prusic fails and it keeps the extra rope tied up nicely and out of the way
@@gregbrightman1205 8mm accessory cord is rated for about 3000lbs. How much do you weigh?
Its interesting to see how the name of tools can very, depending on the region you're in. I call your tether, a lanyard/buck strap. Guess things are different because you are using a rock climbing saddle, instead of a tree climbing saddle. Tree saddles have d rings on the side for work positioning.
FYI/ SRT is way easier on the body, & allows you to advance yourself up the tree quicker. DRT forces you to advance twice as much rope, while SRT allows you to advance twice as fast. You get to advance yourself quicker, because you get to keep every Inch that you move. Unlike DRT, which forces you to move 2ft of rope....to move 1ft. It's just something to look into, but requires a much more technical understanding of the system & tools used.
I enjoyed the content, & wish you all the best! STAY SAFE
Thanks if you look at some of the other videos on our channel we feature SRT as well. We also made videos showing variations of DRT using footloop, handascender with a footloop etc. That's the beauty of these rope climbing methods there's lots of different was to safely ascend the rope and with a saddle you can utilize these methods. The saddle in this video is A Tethrd Mantis that has D rings as well . Thanks for watching and for your comment. Climb safe !
Love your guys stuff I’ve learned most everything I know on saddle hunting setup from your videos. And I know this is an older video and maybe somebody said something already but your carabiner was locked open on your descent portion of this. I don’t want to be negative as I know this is just a demonstration. Just wanted to say be careful out there and always double check. Again great content!
I'm stoked that this vid popped up for me..very informative bro thanks man you got a subscriber out of me friend looking thru your vids refreshing myself with your technics thanks for keeping them interesting and informative!!! Can't wait to see more vids cheer bruv, Jerbs.
Thanks for the positive feedback! We really appreciate it !
@@NYSaddleHunter you bet buds very much enjoyed your content!
Learned a lot of good tips Thanks
Thanks Gary!
Can I tie directly into my Amstel bridge built in with my tethrd phantom for the climb or would you recommend some other method? Just curious your honest opinion on that. Thanks
My son and I have been messing around with drt in the backyard. He has an H2 saddle. We’ve been using a 30’ section of Yale Blaze rope that we use for lifelines when we use solid sticks and lock on stands. We have found that our Blake’s hitch doesn’t hold securely unless we add another wrap to the Blake’s hitch. Just putting that out there in case anyone else is practicing before they make an investment in the predator line
Some ropes don't have the same knot characteristics as Samson predator
Not trying to butt in on someone else’s channel but I would get a good rope. I would not try to change the way you tie the Blake’s hitch. I have professionally climbed trees for 22 years. The Blake’s hitch is one of the safest knots for tree climbing if tied correctly. If tied incorrectly it’s a dead mans knot. There are plenty of dead tree climbers that tried to reinvent the wheel. We don’t need a bunch of dead deer hunters changing the knots that hundreds of thousands of tree climbers us with no problems and go home safe everyday!!!
I picked up a used Guidos Web saddle today, its heaver than what your using. Cant wait to go out and practice! I plan to use a rock climbing harness to climb.
They look really comfortable , good luck with it !
Sean's outdoor adventures has a couple vids for diy saddle.also has.prerty good content.
I’ll say one thing for sure you are dedicated. Dad gum lightning storm and your rolling out a tree climbing video. That video would have just had to wait if it would have been me. You did do a good job on it btw!!!
Great video. What’s the length of the rope from the half hitch of carabiner to the tag end? Looks to be about 4 ft or so. Does it need to be a certain length? Thanks.
Thanks Aaron it needs to be about 5' . Yes it needs to be long enough to tie the Blake's hitch and the tending knot.
Where is the best place to get a second bridge? Iv watched almost all your videos. I just got my phantom saddle and wesspur set up. Iv been playing with it for 2 days thankfully I just watched this video because I’m like somethings not right (made my bridge super short but it sucks up trying to move and shoot).
I had another question I feel like the most common reaction when people panic is to squeeze and grab, any safety ideas for if someone was to be descending to fast and they squeeze the knot panicking and they just go faster, maybe another prusic half way down or something to jam up the Blake? It happen to me the first time and I was like wow this might be a problem for some people. I love your videos thank god you guys put these out. I’m actually gunna be able to be in the saddle for this season. Keep doing what you’re doing !
So you can buy replacement arborist saddle bridge and incorporate one into your saddle. If you use NYSH promo code you should get 10% discount Replacement Bridges for Arborist Harnesses
"Replacement Bridges for Arborist Harnesses" www.wesspur.com/saddles/replacement-bridges.html
As for decending you want one hand on the hitch the other controlling the line to feed it through the hitch and always decend slowly it protects your rope from friction heat and it will last years if you decend slowly plus its safer
@@NYSaddleHunter thank you is that through wesspur? I used your promo code when I bought my drt set up 👍🏻sorry answered my own question I’m on the website now, they have multiple options and thickness do you have a recommendation?
@@NorthEastHunter27
Sorry for the delayed response. I installed the weaver cougar on a saddle I had and it worked out well however I'm not sure if some of the other options might have been better?
Game changer
New saddle hunter from Brooklyn! Really glad I stumbled on your channel! Maybe I missed this in another video but what should we look for in regard to limb size in order to hold our weight?
First thing is it must be alive and healthy . The limb size only matters when you're out on a limb away from the trunk. In that case I like to as a rule of thumb stick with 4" diameter or better but the farther you go out the less strength there is.
We don't climbing hanging from a limb we climb with our rope "THROUGH THE CROTCH" of a limb. So that's the strong part of the tree. I also like to keep the trunk between both ends of the line . That gives you the most strength and your angle when you climb up high is better.
Good luck be safe. Check out this vid to get the techniqueua-cam.com/video/UF-Yk3c6B2s/v-deo.html
You guys are awesome. Thanks so much for the reply and info.
Does the drt cause a lot of wear and tear on the rope? Is there a way to spare your lifeline from all the friction or am I missing something....I stumbled across saddle hunting a few years ago after thinking there had to be a better way but the websites were in their infancy and so was UA-cam. I’d kinda forgotten about it and then it dawned on me tree climbers might do something without sticks. Then I found you guys. If you ever have the time a beginning to end video for someone new to saddle/drt climbing would be helpful. I’ve seen a few videos and haven’t seen any lengthy videos going from start to end. When you’re good at something it’s hard to remember a time when you had never thrown a line or descended, etc. not that you haven’t covered a lot of good information but if I’m out in the field practicing I’d like it all in one video.
I take it back. The very next video after this in my saved playlist addressed 90% of my questions. Thanks for the demo! Does the limb friction destroy the rope or is it minimal wear and tear?
@@willa498
HogFan Arborists who use this method daily and climb 2 to 3 times as high and really abuse their rope generally get a year or more out of a good quality rope like samson predator or yale poison ivy.
They usually replace their ropes annually just to be extra safe .
Even the most avid hunter would take many years to put that kind of wear on a rope.
You should inspect your rope before each climb, however I expect to get about 3-5 years out of my rope .
Most saddles have an expiration date. I plan to rotate rope with saddles assuming my inspections dont cause me to want to replace a rope sooner.
At the hights we climb 20-25' friction isnt an issue for tree or rope in most tree types we climb here usually oaks, maples , hardwoods.
We dont climb pines do to sap can ruin your rope .
If your concerned you could implement whats called a cambium friction saver. We never use them in a hunting situation because its more work to install but if someone felt the need its pretty easy to install and actually makes climbing a little easier.
Thanks for watching and for your question , and best of luck this season!
HogFan07 Minimal as long as your not descending out of the tree like a Army Ranger ( Fast and Furious ). You should be able to enjoy several seasons using the same rope . In the tree care industry. I would climb several times each day 5-6 days every week on the same line. As hunters we might use it a few to several times a week for the hunting season . But always with careful inspection . Rotating your rope from time to time will decrease wear and add to the life of your rope . Good luck.
Is the Bluewater Assault Line a good alternative for DRT? It is pretty stiff so I was wondering about the blakes hitch and its bite.
What knot are you using to add your short climbing bridge on your saddle?
Heres a video of how I did itua-cam.com/video/DIz9o0ug0LA/v-deo.html
Is there any problem with climbing when it's raining? Like does the rope get slippery etc
I thinking of trying this system out.
Only down side the climbing hitch wrings the water out of the line and could drench you but as far the hitch climbing it works wet or dry
Thank ypu
What size rope did you use for the Prusik knot that you tied the tail end to? I had some rope but it wouldn't stay tight enough to ride up the line.TIA
6mm for the tending prussic but you could even use paracord for that it's not weight bearing
do you think this transition could be done with a single bridge or maybe tight on to you linemen's? (tethrd phantom)
Yes you can transition if you have a single bridge or a redundant second bridge.
What are the lengths of your climbing and tether bridges?
David the Amsteel bridge on the tethrd mantis is about 30" long the short bridge I installed is about 15" long
How much rope do you recommend for wanting to climb 20-30 feet? Also I wanna thank you guys for these videos it has really sparked my interest in saddle hunting not having to pack sticks and all that other mess lol
Thankyou for the support !!! If your gonna climb DRT - double Rope Technique. Your gonna need double the height you’ll want to climb. If you choose SRT- single rope technique. I would allow for 30’ plus and extra 5 ‘ for your girth hitch. Keep in mind not all trees will have limbs at your preferred height. You can almost guarantee the tree you’ll need to get in will either have a limb to low or to high. This is the reason we carry 75 ‘ . Just in case the limb is beyond 30’.
@@NYSaddleHunter Thank you! Keep up the good work guys.
Do you have a list of gear needed to climb like this? What is the differences/benefits from drt to srt?
75' 11.4 mm predator climbing line or equivalent. Yale Bandit line works good too.
100' 3mm throw line
14 oz throw ball
Small diddy bag to store throw line.
Saddle we like Aerohunter Kestral flex or tethrd mantis .
So you're using the tag end of the hitch knots to create the Blake knot on your climbing line? And if so, how many feet of tag should I use?
Use 5' or so off your caribiner tie the first blakes hitch then either a second blakes hitch or a taughtline knot will also work.
@@NYSaddleHunter Okay awesome! I think I have it all figured out then! and that second knot you're referring to goes back above me on the main line, correct?
@@NYSaddleHunter thanks for being so helpful!
@@ozzyj94 yes correct, it needs to be above you and no slack between the second knot and the main blakes hitch so that everytime you advance the rope over the limb it pulls the blake hitch up with it
@@NYSaddleHunter okay great! Have you guys ever experimented with friction savers, or a device to keep the main rope from getting in a bind on the limb? Just curious if its necessary or even a big deal.
Would Sterling Oplux rope work for this type of climbing? And how high can you get with 75feet?
I haven’t used it . One thing you want to make sure Any rope you use for DRT has to have superior knot tying capabilities in order for your hitch not to slip . It’s plenty dynamic at 3.3 % . The one thing I personally don’t like is that it’s a 8 mm rope . I’m climbing on Predator witch is 11.4 mm. That’s about the smallest I will go. Anything that size or closer to 1/2 “ feels better in your hand when climbing. Especially when wet . DRT is a Double Rope Technique. Which means your rope is doubled over . So if your length is 75’ your maximum height will be somewhere around 37.5 ‘ to 40 depending on your height. . A little trick to use if it’s the killing tree and you have to be in it. You can bring in one stick if your limb height is a bit beyond 40 ‘ Keep in mind this is not your actual platform height . PS. If your on the fence about Oplux. and Predator is out of order Yale Bandit or Poison Ivy are a great substitute . Good luck James.
Go In Light Come Out Heavy !!!
What size of rope are you guys using and is it static rope?
Derrick
11.4 mm predator rope from a arborist supply called Wesspur . Its double braid arborist rope. It is not static rope. Static rope does not have the same knot tieing characteristics as arborist rope like predator or another good rope is yale bandit.
Maybe a dumb question but is your saddle acting as your harness too or are you using a separate rock climbing harness?
Saddle is your harness
No dumb questions on here. Yes. It doubles as a harness as well. In some spots we have set stands we’ve been hunting for yrs . The saddle gives us more mobility being able to shoot either side of tree. And keeps us safer than a traditional harness especially when you add the DRT method to the equation.
NY Saddle Hunter thanks. I currently use a rock climbing harness and climber stands. I have hang and hunt setups too but seems like they weigh more unless you heavily modify them and even then are still are slightly heavier than my heaviest climber. Interested in saddle hunting for the weight and mobility. Your videos are great. I will likely try this at some point and practice for nest season.
Do you have a video of tying on your short bridge and maybe a video of recommended rope for drt and the short bridge
Heres how I installed my short bridge ua-cam.com/video/DIz9o0ug0LA/v-deo.html
This is what I used for rope for my short bridge.
ROPE Logic Split Tail Bee-Line G-Spliced Single Eye Rope, Black, 10mm x 5' www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGLW3HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zcM0Db4YRHQFZ
Thank you for the video. I watch alot of your videos. However, this one was a great learning lesson for my son. As we watched I noticed a very scary life threatening error made in this video. I am surprsied no one else caught it. Or maybe they have? Now, i am new to saddle hunting but when my son says, "so i keep my carabiner open like that"? I looked up and was shocked. Check your climbing line you have your carabiner lock down so it is not closing. oops Thanks for all your advice. we gotta make sure we are not teaching a clueless person wrong technique
Eric Good eye ! We made a safety video touching on slowing down when climbing for safety. If you notice in this video Im rushing because of a thunder storm thats coming and in my haste I failed to close the gate on my caribiner . A 3 point spring carabiner would eliminate this risk, but thats how easy it can happen and yes its a perfect example of why we should never rush a d should check each conection point , knots, caribiners etc.
My focus was on showing how I transition but in my rush to quickly wrap things up I heard the click but didnt lock it and I absolutly should have to teach it properly . So thanks for pointing that out . I had not noticed that myself . Im glad you saw this and it taught your son that valuable lesson
without using a friction saver,how often do you have to replace your climbing rope?
As an arborist who climbs 5 days a week as a General rule they would replace a climbing line annually but in a hunting situation your not going to put nearly that kind of abuse on a rope in many years so I inspect my line before or after each climb but I won't think about changing out my rope for maybe 5 years or more. My current rope is 3 years old and we climb often and it's like new
@@NYSaddleHunter thanks i was curious to the damage bark actually does to the rope because my rope will be here Monday and can't wait to start practicing.
@@bamabiker Great , good luck. We just filmed some DRT climbing with two different variations today . The video should be uploaded in a few days. I'm really liking DRT with a foot loop. Works really well . Climb safe & Best of luck !
@@NYSaddleHunter looking forward to the new video. you guys are great love the channel.
@@bamabiker Thanks Brother we really appreciate it!
What if you come up to a new tree and you climb it how are you going to set your ring of steps dangling off rope?
Your rope is like a tether even if your tie in point is much higher it still by gravity wants to pull you in to the tree , you can work from your tie in but if you feel unsteady you can always use your lineman also to secure you to the trunk while you set your platform but usually thats only necassary on a tree with a lean
What is the shirt bridge attached to are you also wearing a rock climbing harness
Dustin
In this video I'm wearing a Tethrd mantis saddle. The short bridge is tied into the same loops as my Amsteel bridge that comes with the Mantis saddle. If you watch this video I show how I installed my short bridge ua-cam.com/video/DIz9o0ug0LA/v-deo.html
I would assume you pretty much saddle hunt on public land right? That’s all I got to work with in WNY
Yes one of the reasons we got into saddle hunting was because we hunt way back on public to get away from the crowds and wanted a lighter more mobile way to get way back quietly, and with less weight and gear to hump in. I loved sitting in my summit climber I hated carrying it in and out . The saddle eliminates the stand . I still use sticks at times but whenever I can I like to use rope climbing methods DRT/ SRT because it's only 5lbs of gear to climb vast high as 35' and it's faster, easier to climb in and out plus its actually more fun to climb this way. And its because we hunt public so often that saddle hunting is so attractive to us
NY Saddle Hunter good to hear, I don’t have the lightest setup for public, I have a 20lb strap on stand and 20lb worth of sticks. I’ve hiking in before daylight and setup but it was kind of a pain so I’m considering leaving my stand up there and either brining a couple sticks or leaving a small rope over a limb and when I come out at sunrise I strap on my climbing rope and ascend. Public land sure can be a pain and I have been wanting property for so long but it is expensive. Where in NY y’all from? I’m south of buf
TheOutdoorAngler We are in Southeast NY. Hudson Valley region about 1 hr North of NYC
@@theoutdoorangler1173 we are in the Hudson valley Dutchess county just south of Poughkeepsie but we just picked up a 328 acre lease in The finger lakes region Livingston county
NY Saddle Hunter I’m not too far from Livingston, they got great populations of deer. I primarily hunt Cattarragus which is also money. Last year was my first time out and skunked, this year I hope to kill somethin
Thanks for the video. very good. I was quite turned off by some others who kept advocating the ropeman and using it for life support. Also in 2017 I built the eagles nest molle 2 but got all kinds of flack from guys on the sh forum who cant think out side of the box. then in 2018 the jx3 came along using some of my ideas. but that is ok I just built it for myself it has way too many functions for your average joe and is innovated past the jx3 right off the bench. but tree guys like it because they know how to use the features. like the adjustable bridge and the quick adjustable dee rings even the rear has a semi floating d ring for regular stand usage and redirects. I think the weight is a factor for most at 9#. but then again I could be wrong. it is kinda a big guy stand. for hunting aggressive bear country I feel safer having my back protected from a bear attack with the frame. thanks for your video
Bob
I'd love to see your eagles nest saddle. I'm a fan of the JX3, and yours sounds interesting .
I've found that on some forums If you think outside the box some people feel like they have to rain on your parade rather then recognize we each have different tastes and preferences and what you and I might like may differ from others and so long as it's safe and works if you like it that's all that really matters. I love to see all the great ideas people have .
I was curious what your thoughts are on using a friction saver where the rope contacts the tree limb or if it's even necessary? I see conflicting opinions when people are discussing DRT etc. Do you see much wear on your ropes in general? If so, how often are you replacing etc?
Great content BTW guys! Thanks again
We've not been using friction savers while hunting. It would protect the tree and the rope but I've not noticed any impact on my rope or damage to the tree I climb in at home , a maple. I've not felt the need to use them in a hunting situation but some guys do use them and they'll make it that much easier to climb just requires you to take a little more time to install them
Since SRT & DRT are considered standards in the arborist industry. All things being equal as far as education, user confidence and equipment maintenance. Would you consider this method of tree climbing safer compared to other methods such as climbing sticks and climbers that are marketed to hunters. One would assume an arborist who climbs trees for a living has a better and proven safer method of climbing trees
Exactly David, it only makes sense if your climbing trees to look to what pros do, to do it efficiently and safely. In my opinion Arborist rope climbing methods are safer , that's not to say sticks or climbers are not safe they can be with a lineman belt or tether but I think we can learn a lot from pros and with a saddle you can climb like a pro
David. The one aspect of SRT or DRT is that your rope is basically your safety line and your always on it. Even if you decide to use your tether once your at hunting height . You would never come off your rope until you were securely tethered in first . And reverse these steps when your ready to descend Good luck !!!
I agree, this is the conclusion I came too as well as I continued to watch several of your videos. It's interesting as I've read the debates on the saddlehunter forum of those that don't agree with RCH/Saddle Harness being used to climb and hunt from in a tree. Yet, I still kept my intrigue and continued researching until I came upon your comparison videos on Thether vs Aerohunter which led to several other videos which explained the method's very clearly and well presented, with the kind of mental attitude and thinking I respect and admire as an OIF Vet, Very professional, concise, laid back and comprehensible. I was a little put off by the promo videos I've seen from Thether, came across too marketing/gimmicky for my taste but this info definitely opened up my eyes on it.
tried drt but had problems getting knot to advance, didn't have it tied across to other line, @ 5'10 350ish ,may not work for me ?
If your knot isn't advancing it might be slipping on your tag end knot/ tending knot. Some times you have to play with the height. Of it , you want no slack in the bridge from the main Blake's hitch to your tending knot. If your tending knot slips it won't work ,make sure that tending knot won't slip, and theres no slack . Some times it takes a little adjustment to get it to work good. Good luck!
Also you could also advance the knot by hand too. See if this video might help.ua-cam.com/video/UF-Yk3c6B2s/v-deo.html
Thanks for the advice, I was having a helleva time throwing that ball also, it was frustrating and funny at the same time, had to tie line to belt loop since it went like a rocket, it was one of those oh shit moments, there it goes.haha
@@10oclock12 Your welcome. Not sure if you saw these videos but we made a few on throwball. I found the throwball to be the most difficult part of our system. It's an easy concept but takes lots of practice to master. Check out these videos:
ua-cam.com/video/BzPBQzlYMN4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/GpVJd1Px9hc/v-deo.html
A lot of good a climbing stick does in nasty weather when your feet r cold, sometimes u have 2 hunt due 2 the date & I don't want 2 hit that hard ground
I'm curious of what kind of damage if any is done to the rope sliding over the bark with your weight on it? I am thinking of giving this a try but I'm big guy at 6' 4" and 325 lbs. Also in cold weather what kind of gloves are you using?
I don't believe your harming the tree at all that I'm aware of. However some tree bark I'd probably tough than others. I tend to hunt out of mostly oaks, beech, maples as where I hunt they are common and they have lots of good limbs which makes it easier to get your throw line where you want it
For climbing I use pair of leather mechanics gloves . I can climb without them as I'm usually only going up Around 25' . But I practice with a inexpensive set of mechanics gloves from home Depot nothing special
NY Saddle Hunter thanks for that info. How about the rope? Any damage or wearing through the outer sleeve due to it rubbing overt the limb? How often are you replacing it? Thanks in advance.
@@jeffreyvanessendelft3755
Depending on the quality of the rope and the amount of times you climb you should get years out of a rope.
A arborist who climbs daily at heights of 60' and beats up the rope with limbs falling on it and chainsaws usually replace their ropes as rule of thump annually. But in a hunting situation even if you hunted everyday for 3 months I wouldn't expect you'd need to replace a rope or even start thinking about it until after about three years possibly even five years. However just like your saddle itself and anything else that you're climbing with you should inspect it before you climb with it each time as long as you don't see anything that gives you cause for concern with the rope.
I just bought 75 ft of predator line from wesspur 11.4 mil last October. Honestly I'll bet I'll hunt on that same line for a solid five years and probably replace it just out of pure precaution to being extra safe because it is a lifeline. and if you're the type of person that wants to just be ultra safe at all times change it out more frequently but as long as you don't see any defects in the rope and you're using it normal in a hunting situation I don't think you would have to worry about changing it out as frequently as an arborist would but if it makes you feel safer to replace the rope more frequently and you have the $ to do so that's your perogative.
I think it's important also to remember that you should inspect it frequently four defects and store it away properly in a dry place. if it was left outside in the sun and rain all the time the UV might start to deteriorate it the elements deteriorate it but if it's kept indoors in a good atmosphere and it's not beat up by chainsaws and that sort of thing It will last year's at least as long as the saddle you're using it in. So just always inspect it to be safe.
@@NYSaddleHunter I was thinking that the usual inspections would be taken to prevent a "quick ride" down. Just wanted that info of how long a hunter would get out of the rope. I am waiting for the predator rope to be back in stock to order 100 feet, ( a little extra for a short bridge and miscellanies uses ). Thanks for all the info and videos, it is much appreciated.
@@jeffreyvanessendelft3755 Ok Good luck !
Have you ever tried a 2nd blakes hitch instead of the prusic thus requiring only the climbing line as you in theory could eliminate the CARBINER love the vids learned alot
Yes that's the way I did it always in the past but I had an extra prussic and figured it's just easier to tie in and adjust for me but you can do it either way
I didn't read the comments but the way you loaded that tether-prussick knot (the one straddling the caribiner...) looks suspiciois af
How do you pee while hunting on top of the tree. ? Any tips?
Mohdkhan Mohd asking the real questions!!!
I use a predator platform so I stand on the platform , turn my hips away from the tree , and pee
Tqvm for sharing NY Saddle Hunter
Brian Mincher I agree that’s a good question!!!
Ehm... a BIG oopsie at 7:00. Please lock the carabiner..
Joe has been called out on this many times in this video.
One of the reasons we like seeing it criticized so much is to show anyone can make mistakes. We all need to scrutinize our gear constantly. Being in a hurry can sometimes lead to trouble !!!
We also love that our viewers are paying close attention.
Not everyone noticed the Biner was not properly locked
Good eyes !!!
I like how you’re always tied in. Something I learned when climbing and cutting down trees. You must have some experience as an arborist. Unlike some videos I see guy’s climbing without being tied in and no safety line…. That’s not a smart move.
Good vid👍
35yrs Tree Care Industry
i would rather have an anchor hitch on my carabiner just my honest opinion
Agreed Clove hitch
Sure I also like a clove hitch , its easy
@rs Heres a video inbgg this topic I made a while back ua-cam.com/video/B9PFgKQmP4U/v-deo.html
I see "dead" people ! A long way down. Great for mountain climber trained individuals. Too many knots and "stuff"
As we say climbing is inherently dangerous. Professional arborists use this method safely every day. We recommend people seek professional training. It's no different than firearms . If you're properly trained and it's done right it's very safe. Done wrong even driving is unsafe if you don't do it right.
Is the Bluewater Assault Line a good alternative for DRT? It is pretty stiff so I was wondering about the blakes hitch and its bite.
Static rope is not usually a good choice for DRT because it doesn't have the same knot characteristics. If you already have the rope and are trying to avoid purchasing a arborist climbing line that works good for your Blake's hitch you might want to try a 10mm Bee line . You could use the BW Assualt line tied to the caribiner ,clip in to your bridge on your saddle , use a Bee line for the climbing hitch. Might be worth a try?