THANK YOU for all the info and your enthusiasm. Another example of happy people talking about things they care about. It's always easy and fun to learn from someone like that.
I love my rotary hammer it drill holes like there is nothing there you can definitely tell the difference between a normal drill/drill hammer 👍👍👍👍 Another thing Steve I was skeptical about these square and torx screw heads but I’m going to try it 🙌
Great video, here in Florida, I was always told to never attach ANY wood to the existing structure of the home, as it can be a path for termites. They can use to 'hide" as the maybe come up from the ground and make an unseen "dirt tunnel", then use the wood that is attached to the home to go thru that and find a crack in the brick or concrete side of the house. I never will attach a fence post either right to the house or with a strap, as some people will for added support. That's just me, maybe being extra careful and taking my older brothers professional advice.
Interesting Joseph. I have never experienced any termite situation doing this as it's quite a common instalation. Before I attach the wood I do put a bead of silicone caulking around the fasteners as well as the perimeter of the wood so no moisture builds up behind the wood. In Florida the temps don't get down to -25 so moisture and termites can be a challenge.
We use Robertson head screws almost exclusively in Canada. They rarely strip whereas the Phillips cross head screws strip quite a bit when under tension. One old trick, put some wax, soap or WD40 or other lubricant on the threads to help the screw go in easier, especially in hard wood, and help to stop stripping of the Phillips head screws.
I hear ya about using a regular hammer drill wallowing out the holes, I killed two hammer drills installing the anchors for my tire changer and ended up renting a rotary hammer like your yours to finish them. I've had the same experience with the Philips head screws too, I try to use the Torx ones when I can find them. Those certainly looked like they bit in good. You're a master fence builder Steve.
Bruce we all learn the expensive way but youtube can save ya some money by just watching and its free . I still run across people that think it costs money to sign up :)
How's she goin'? Using the right fastener for the job is key!! I certainly would go with the square, or Robertson, drive. Miles ahead of the Philips and I always have much better success with the Robertson's. I don't have a rotary hammer but it sure went through those bricks in a hurry!!! Once again the right tool and right fasteners and you will have better results. Nice job. Take care!!
Most screws that go into metal or masonry are made of a harder material than their timber screw cousins and so you need to use hardened drivers. This is especially true with Philips head screws. Most drivers that come in cheaper sets are not hard enough and will chip and break when used for metal and masonry screws.
That was classic when the bit spun off the mark on the brick. Even though I’m covering it up for some reason I’d be pissed. I just pulled up some warped wood floors and found lovely Terrazo. 1959 marks from when home was built in pencil on the old wall lines. Pretty cool.
I used a hammer drill on a very small project- 3/8 inch masonary bits for anchors-bent them all to heck and didnt penatrate the brickwork. Resorted to construction glue. Are you suggesting my impact driver for the anchors? You used your hammer drill. I think the point you were making was how effective the different screw styles were. I've ruined four masonary bits!
Hi Wendy A hammer drill turns at a very fast rpm as opposed to my rotary hammer drill at a slower speed plus the rotary action is much easier on bits. I did the same in the past burning up drill bits in a high speed hammer drill. Some concrete is super hard, so low-end drill bits just don't work.
screwing a hole into a half brick on the corner may. over time to cause the brick to crack. You should screw the hole into a full brick and NEVER into a mortar joint!
My experience with Tapcon: 1. Use the Hex Head Tapcons, 2. Predilection for the screw with the recommended Tapcon Drill, 3. Install…NEVER try fastening into the damn mortar??
In my experience a flag exerts a lot of vibration thru the mounting hardware depending on the size of the flag and the wind in your area. Definitely need fasteners designed for brick and screws are one option. The bit to install screws don't need to be anything special, just fit correctly when used. Zane for a flag length longer than 24 inches I use regular low cost epoxy to add extra strength to offset the vibration . I use a Q tip or a small screwdriver shaft to coat the walls of the hole before installing the screws. Smaller flag mounts seem to be fine with just the concrete screws. Cheers 👍
The problem with blue concrete screws that have been in exterior shutter hinges is that over time the screws become brittle and can’t be removed easily because most break off in the brick.
When doing a job, success always depends on the guy doing the job and his skills and having the right tools....success all the time if you have the right combination.....CHEERS
I'm kind of doing the same thing. I am mounting a 4 x 6 post to the corner of my house in the same place that you mounted your bored but not a 2 x6 a 4 by 6. It will be the corner post for my gate going across my driveway. What do you recommend I use to mount that post to The Brick? It's going to need to be at least 6 in Long so that I'll get at least 2 of bite. Like I said this is the corner post of a double gate that goes across my driveway. It's got to be super strong and not blow apart the brick. Also should the post be spaced of the brick so water cannot end up pooling up ? Kind of like a ledger board needs that would Mont to the brick for a deck?. This would be a good video to make. Thanks for your time.
I’m researching bc me & my daughter are gonna cover my side concrete porch with wood bc some of the concrete has broken away & we’ll put up a banister 🤞🏼🙏🏼
@@keep1treal61place the board where you want it drill a hole with the 3/16 masonry bit, cut off a piece of 16 gauge annealed wire about 4" long ( home Depot sells it) put the wire in the hole, drive a 16 d nail in the hole. It will hold very well. Add more holes just as you would attach any piece of lumber.
Great video! I have a question a bit out of the wheel house here. I want to attach cedar planks to some old brick on the exterior of our house to modernize it and bring some warm tone. Should I first attach furring strips with the concrete screws then nail (with a nail gun) the cedar to the furring strips? Thanks in advance!
Thanks Ariel. The strips are a great idea but cedar does not react well to any fastener well that rusts as it stains and shows up as a black spot so I prefer stainless steel fasteners. Some do use galvanized but depending on the manufacturer the coating can be minimal so a good brand name is preferred. Cheers
Steve I dont sell items on my channel but I did buy them off amazon so the brand name is duradrive using a #3 square drive . Box or 100 was about $20 . By far the best screws I have used at a great price . Hope this helps. Cheers
Nice ! Steve, if your going to be a carpenter you have to use the right terminology, your jamb stud was plum not level ! LOL ! I usually use the Tap Con brand but on commercial jobs we get the 5/16 hex head type. They work rather well but in your application probably not because you needed the heads to be flush to the surface .
@@guillermodozal7166 No problem , not having to use an anchor is much better unless you have a much heavier load like attaching a deck to a concrete wall then proper anchors are the way to go.
M8 you are best off starting on drill first on the bricks, then switch to hammer when you have got going. Otherwise it tends to want to bounce off. Good vid though.
I have attached different things to brick and I have never drilled into the brick. I always drill into the mortar and it works every time. The bricks have hollow holes and the mortar is solid.
If your brick has voids then it is not suitable for a building material under compressive strength. TAPCON clearly states (read the instructions) to place the screw in the brick or Concrete Masonry Unit. So even an extruded brick would be treated closer to an MSU. Their documents tell you how much bite in the substrate you need for the threaded screw to hold. Much like taking a long screw and having half of it stick out the back of the fence board. The part that was able to secure into the wood is what provided the holding strength, not the extra in the void.
nice job. i didn't actually see the difference btwn a rotary hammer and regular hammer drill. It would have also been nice to see you use both kinds on the project (or at least a test project ;) ) either way, excellent presentation.
Thanks Mike , well to be honest it's like night and day using a rotary hammer compared to a hammer drill. I did use a hammer drill for years and cursed the concrete screws at times till I bought the rotary hammer and now the concrete screws are not getting cursed at any more 😅😅
Barbara without the required tools I can't see how you could accomplish the task. I guess most people without tools are not attempting tasks like this. Cheers
It would definitely take a lot longer, might break a bit or 3, and may not even be realistic to try. Impact drivers are cheap enough, that’s a start, and hammer drills aren’t too bad on sale (they also drill without the hammer function). Do yourself a favour and get the basics. For these screws the entry-level tools should be ok. They WILL save time and frustration.
Yep, it's confirmed I need a rotary hammer. Another thing tool to try and pickup used when some guy switches over to coredless. Your videos are getting expensive Steve.
I had to use cut up rubber coated wires ....insert them in the hole I used my dewalt hammer drill on....then insert the screws. Like butter....lol....I’ll never use a lead anchor again!
Well Edward you don't get out much then :) yes concrete screws are made from metal and engineered for concrete not metal. See you learnt something today👍
THANK YOU for all the info and your enthusiasm. Another example of happy people talking about things they care about. It's always easy and fun to learn from someone like that.
Thanks much appreciated 👍
Fantastic! Thank you for the closeups of what you're using and how you achieved it.
Glad to have been of assistance. Cheers Jennifer
It went through a lot faster than I expected. It's coming out nicely
A lot better than huge lag bolts . Cheers Johnathan
I always liked tapcon screws. Accurate hole drilling is what counts with them. Thank you for the video, Steve. Stay safe
Yes Sean exactly as a bad hole get bad results. Cheers
I love my rotary hammer it drill holes like there is nothing there you can definitely tell the difference between a normal drill/drill hammer 👍👍👍👍 Another thing Steve I was skeptical about these square and torx screw heads but I’m going to try it 🙌
I thought the same but was really impressed .
Square and torx are a million times better than Phillips in my opinion. I don’t know why Phillips are even made anymore.
Great video, here in Florida, I was always told to never attach ANY wood to the existing structure of the home, as it can be a path for termites. They can use to 'hide" as the maybe come up from the ground and make an unseen "dirt tunnel", then use the wood that is attached to the home to go thru that and find a crack in the brick or concrete side of the house. I never will attach a fence post either right to the house or with a strap, as some people will for added support. That's just me, maybe being extra careful and taking my older brothers professional advice.
Interesting Joseph. I have never experienced any termite situation doing this as it's quite a common instalation. Before I attach the wood I do put a bead of silicone caulking around the fasteners as well as the perimeter of the wood so no moisture builds up behind the wood. In Florida the temps don't get down to -25 so moisture and termites can be a challenge.
Those square ends are called Robertson screws. Canadian invention many years old
that's a god damn nice piece of wood fixing
Thanks much appreciated 👍
Wow those Tapcons did the job they did what they are designed for. I enjoyed the video great job 😉👍
Thanks Kevin.
We use Robertson head screws almost exclusively in Canada. They rarely strip whereas the Phillips cross head screws strip quite a bit when under tension. One old trick, put some wax, soap or WD40 or other lubricant on the threads to help the screw go in easier, especially in hard wood, and help to stop stripping of the Phillips head screws.
Great tips on the lubricant. Thanks 👍
Agreed the robertson head is a good system, but the market in the uk is almost all posi/torx. Robertson not very common here at all.
yep those square heads are the nuts! Have used them for awhile. great job Steve!
Yes they are! And we do think alike for being in different countries to :)
I hear ya about using a regular hammer drill wallowing out the holes, I killed two hammer drills installing the anchors for my tire changer and ended up renting a rotary hammer like your yours to finish them. I've had the same experience with the Philips head screws too, I try to use the Torx ones when I can find them. Those certainly looked like they bit in good.
You're a master fence builder Steve.
Bruce we all learn the expensive way but youtube can save ya some money by just watching and its free . I still run across people that think it costs money to sign up :)
How's she goin'? Using the right fastener for the job is key!! I certainly would go with the square, or Robertson, drive. Miles ahead of the Philips and I always have much better success with the Robertson's. I don't have a rotary hammer but it sure went through those bricks in a hurry!!! Once again the right tool and right fasteners and you will have better results. Nice job. Take care!!
Mike I had a hammer drill for years and was tired of wallowed out holes and doing everything over too many times so the rotary hammer fixed it all .
Most screws that go into metal or masonry are made of a harder material than their timber screw cousins and so you need to use hardened drivers. This is especially true with Philips head screws. Most drivers that come in cheaper sets are not hard enough and will chip and break when used for metal and masonry screws.
Nice. Philips flat heads suck into masonry. Torx or square bit
👍
Would it make sense to put a slight angle on the top end grain of that board to wick moisture off and away from the building?
Yes absolutely 💯. Personal preference for many but overall the wood will last longer if it's angled a bit so the rain runs off.
Nice work Steve, That plank is never coming off now.
Thanks bud , it's going nowhere. Cheers
That was classic when the bit spun off the mark on the brick. Even though I’m covering it up for some reason I’d be pissed. I just pulled up some warped wood floors and found lovely Terrazo. 1959 marks from when home was built in pencil on the old wall lines. Pretty cool.
Windows 11 is out now.
I was surprised by the pulling power of those screws and the square notch in them works a lot better than phillips. Have a good one Steve!
Terry they sure grip but the hole must be spot on too. Take Care .
Gotta go in an inch and a half, goes in 3 inches
I used a hammer drill on a very small project- 3/8 inch masonary bits for anchors-bent them all to heck and didnt penatrate the brickwork. Resorted to construction glue. Are you suggesting my impact driver for the anchors? You used your hammer drill. I think the point you were making was how effective the different screw styles were. I've ruined four masonary bits!
Hi Wendy
A hammer drill turns at a very fast rpm as opposed to my rotary hammer drill at a slower speed plus the rotary action is much easier on bits. I did the same in the past burning up drill bits in a high speed hammer drill. Some concrete is super hard, so low-end drill bits just don't work.
screwing a hole into a half brick on the corner may. over time to cause the brick to crack. You should screw the hole into a full brick and NEVER into a mortar joint!
So far so good , no concerns.
I was just wondering what's the make and model of the rotary hammer you were using ??
Bosch RH432VCQ 1-1/4-Inch SDS-Plus Rotary Hammer Kit , Blue
Thank you Sir for replying ,, also great video.👍
Good morning Steeve 🌞 Great Job 👍 Have a great Sunday Sir Cheers 👍🌞
Thanks, you too!
@@SteveRobReviews👍
Since you now have holes in you concrete wall at the bottom which is probably your basement, do you have any water leaks during storms.
Nope no worries about that at all.
Yeah he’s absolutely right they are a hassle with the Philip head an always wanted them to be Robinson drive
👍
Exactly what i was looking for. What are the dimensions of wooden board sir
The board is a 2x6 pressure treated . Cheers 👍
Thanks Steve
My experience with Tapcon: 1. Use the Hex Head Tapcons, 2. Predilection for the screw with the recommended Tapcon Drill, 3. Install…NEVER try fastening into the damn mortar??
Nice video. I am mounting a flag pole bracket to the brick by my front door. Do i need to but special masonary screws and a special bit for my drill?
In my experience a flag exerts a lot of vibration thru the mounting hardware depending on the size of the flag and the wind in your area. Definitely need fasteners designed for brick and screws are one option. The bit to install screws don't need to be anything special, just fit correctly when used. Zane for a flag length longer than 24 inches I use regular low cost epoxy to add extra strength to offset the vibration . I use a Q tip or a small screwdriver shaft to coat the walls of the hole before installing the screws. Smaller flag mounts seem to be fine with just the concrete screws. Cheers 👍
The problem with blue concrete screws that have been in exterior shutter hinges is that over time the screws become brittle and can’t be removed easily because most break off in the brick.
I have seen that as well in thin wall screws but not so far in 1/4" shafts.
Great Channel watching from 🏴
Thanks Christopher much appreciated 👍
When doing a job, success always depends on the guy doing the job and his skills and having the right tools....success all the time if you have the right combination.....CHEERS
Well said bud well said.....
Wow, never saw those screws before. Thanks
Wow I was wondering what the difference between rotary and hammer was and unexpectedly got the answer in this video 👍.
Awesome 👍
Those masonry screws do work great, used them quite a bit at steel plant
Years ago it was concrete nails and lead anchors. This is miles ahead and fast to install. Cheers bud.
I'm kind of doing the same thing. I am mounting a 4 x 6 post to the corner of my house in the same place that you mounted your bored but not a 2 x6 a 4 by 6. It will be the corner post for my gate going across my driveway. What do you recommend I use to mount that post to The Brick? It's going to need to be at least 6 in Long so that I'll get at least 2 of bite. Like I said this is the corner post of a double gate that goes across my driveway. It's got to be super strong and not blow apart the brick. Also should the post be spaced of the brick so water cannot end up pooling up ? Kind of like a ledger board needs that would Mont to the brick for a deck?. This would be a good video to make. Thanks for your time.
Hex Head Sleeve anchor 3/8 would be super strong and never loosed up , one every foot .
very clean set up - thanks 👍
Thanks !!!
I’m researching bc me & my daughter are gonna cover my side concrete porch with wood bc some of the concrete has broken away & we’ll put up a banister 🤞🏼🙏🏼
I would definitely recommend the concrete screws using a rotary hammer drill as opposed to a regular hammer drill.
is it better to use concrete screws straight up or anchor then normal screws?
It depends on access , the weight your holding up and do you want the ability to remove it easily. Both work so it personal choice.
VERY CONVINCING 👌💪🏽✅
👍
Glad you didn't get screwed on this one.
Me too because I've had my share in 40 + years :)
Do concrete nails work really good?
I don't like to use concrete nails as much as the screws.
Thanks for the tips!
👍
Best way to attach lumber to concrete, brick or block is with a 3/16 masonry bit 16 gauge annealed wire and a 16d common nail
Is there a video in this or directions? Thanks
@@keep1treal61place the board where you want it drill a hole with the 3/16 masonry bit, cut off a piece of 16 gauge annealed wire about 4" long ( home Depot sells it) put the wire in the hole, drive a 16 d nail in the hole. It will hold very well. Add more holes just as you would attach any piece of lumber.
@@jackfarrell4727 thank you
Just perfect Steve (Perfect)!
Thanks - That's exactly the same thing I say watching your videos too Annie :)
@@SteveRobReviews LOL
Great video! I have a question a bit out of the wheel house here. I want to attach cedar planks to some old brick on the exterior of our house to modernize it and bring some warm tone. Should I first attach furring strips with the concrete screws then nail (with a nail gun) the cedar to the furring strips? Thanks in advance!
Thanks Ariel. The strips are a great idea but cedar does not react well to any fastener well that rusts as it stains and shows up as a black spot so I prefer stainless steel fasteners. Some do use galvanized but depending on the manufacturer the coating can be minimal so a good brand name is preferred. Cheers
You do solid work Steve. :)
Thanks bud , just like a chevy truck , built like a rock. LOL
Nicely done Steve. Success! PAPA doesn't have a rotary hammer.
Well Christmas is only 6 months away LOL
What are the name of the nails? And what is the best construction adhesive?
Christie I was using concrete screws also known as tapcon screws and PL Premium adhesive .
Thank you very much.
Great vid I like the Robertson bit better than the Phillips
Thanks John.
What type of plugs did you use?
No plugs just the screws .
I have looked around quite a bit and am having trouble finding the square hole Tapcons. Can you please post where I can buy them? Thanks.
Steve I dont sell items on my channel but I did buy them off amazon so the brand name is duradrive using a #3 square drive . Box or 100 was about $20 . By far the best screws I have used at a great price . Hope this helps. Cheers
@@SteveRobReviews thanks for that info!
What is the pullout and shear force resistance of these screws?
I don't know . You would have to look that up for a particular screw.
I would have lifted the board a little bit so it doesn't wick water.
Yes that's a great option in prevention.
Yeah, just hit it with the oscillating tool to solve that. 👌
@@ETBozz78 Yeah, I was thinking that an oscillating tool could easily cut off a quarter inch from the bottom.
Everytime I predrilled hole the screws seem to just spin never bite in
I got that too in the past when using a regular hammer drill . The rotary hammer is the best .
@@SteveRobReviews maybe have see if I can find a cheap used one to make life easier when I do need to drill concrete
Just tap a plastic anchor in if there's any play
You might want to use washers. Other than that, great job...
Good suggestion Thanks .
The old screw job eh Steve? We are on to your game Buddy! 😂
Yes sir ya catch on fast eh :)
Nice ! Steve, if your going to be a carpenter you have to use the right terminology, your jamb stud was plum not level ! LOL ! I usually use the Tap Con brand but on commercial jobs we get the 5/16 hex head type. They work rather well but in your application probably not because you needed the heads to be flush to the surface .
Thanks Billy , i'm a meatball carpenter at best LOL
good job thumbs up shared
Thanks bud.....
So, there’s no need for fasteners on stucco or on cement, as you do on drywall?
Not sure exactly what your asking ?
@@SteveRobReviews sorry buddy, I meant to say anchor, not fastener. And thanks for your video.
@@guillermodozal7166 No problem , not having to use an anchor is much better unless you have a much heavier load like attaching a deck to a concrete wall then proper anchors are the way to go.
Do u have the drill bit & screws the same size? Or the drill bit a bit smaller?
The screws are matched with a specific size of drill bit to be used.
I am sure the mastic will hold up.
There is zero reason to put adhesive. That will just make is extremely difficult to remove it in the future. The tap con screws will due the job.
Adhesive is an optional choice depending on the specific installation.
Great job
Thanks Jon 👍
Good info!
M8 you are best off starting on drill first on the bricks, then switch to hammer when you have got going. Otherwise it tends to want to bounce off. Good vid though.
Thanks 👍
pretty sure hes got it :)
wonderful
👍
Nice!
I have attached different things to brick and I have never drilled into the brick. I always drill into the mortar and it works every time. The bricks have hollow holes and the mortar is solid.
Both ways work as it all depend on how solid the mortar is and how solid your brick is . Cheers
If your brick has voids then it is not suitable for a building material under compressive strength. TAPCON clearly states (read the instructions) to place the screw in the brick or Concrete Masonry Unit. So even an extruded brick would be treated closer to an MSU. Their documents tell you how much bite in the substrate you need for the threaded screw to hold. Much like taking a long screw and having half of it stick out the back of the fence board. The part that was able to secure into the wood is what provided the holding strength, not the extra in the void.
Why are you not using pressure treated wood?
Why do you think its not pressure treated wood ?
@@SteveRobReviews , could be the contrast on my video player… who knows. Just didn’t appear to be PT .
Yep it was PT . 👍
I Love thanks
👍
I hate philips head screws. They're always stripping out. That's a nice rotary hammer!
Yes sir most time you have one shot at getting it right and the philips heads get it wrong too much :)
I don’t understand why Phillips head screws are still in use. Pozidrive are far superior.
Good question because you are correct . 👍
Cheap screws and plastic plugs will work as good ???
Definitely not Jeff.
nice job.
i didn't actually see the difference btwn a rotary hammer and regular hammer drill. It would have also been nice to see you use both kinds on the project (or at least a test project ;) )
either way, excellent presentation.
Thanks Mike , well to be honest it's like night and day using a rotary hammer compared to a hammer drill. I did use a hammer drill for years and cursed the concrete screws at times till I bought the rotary hammer and now the concrete screws are not getting cursed at any more 😅😅
@@SteveRobReviews - love it steve. i'll have to give the rotary hammer a try, then :)
catch you on the next vid!
star wars theory would hate this
I have no idea what your referring to 🤔
isn't he lucky that the brick or concrete didn't chipped ? some holes are to close to the edge.
Luck ? Been doing this for years , all skill Marcelo 👍
💯👍👍
Most people don’t have a hammer drill or all the tools you have. It would be nice to see how to do these things with “regular” tools.
Barbara without the required tools I can't see how you could accomplish the task. I guess most people without tools are not attempting tasks like this. Cheers
It would definitely take a lot longer, might break a bit or 3, and may not even be realistic to try. Impact drivers are cheap enough, that’s a start, and hammer drills aren’t too bad on sale (they also drill without the hammer function). Do yourself a favour and get the basics. For these screws the entry-level tools should be ok. They WILL save time and frustration.
Getting a tradesperson in to just do this little job may cost as much as the basic tools to diy.
They call them Tapcon fasteners around here. Best thing since sliced bread.
Yes sir and we love our sliced bread :)
So, what do you guys stink? lol 😂
Yep, it's confirmed I need a rotary hammer. Another thing tool to try and pickup used when some guy switches over to coredless. Your videos are getting expensive Steve.
HAHA welcome to the club.
😎🛠🛠🇺🇸🇲🇽
Beauty eh
I had to use cut up rubber coated wires ....insert them in the hole I used my dewalt hammer drill on....then insert the screws.
Like butter....lol....I’ll never use a lead anchor again!
I agree lead anchors look good from afar but far from good :)
concrete screws!!! no, no they are METAL SCREWS!!! i have never seen CONCRETE SCREWS!!! hahahahaha
Well Edward you don't get out much then :) yes concrete screws are made from metal and engineered for concrete not metal. See you learnt something today👍
@@SteveRobReviews I think it was a joke lol. Like, he was saying he had never seen screws made out of concrete.
Predrilled all the holes
Awesome 👉😜
👍