I used this exact pump on a low mount twin turbo mustang I had and it was great. The gravity drain just didn't have enough drop and so the turbos smoked front not draining correctly. Installed this and never had another issue.
yes there quiet, but for me it didn't last more than about 120 hrs. Bought a cheap china pump noisy as hell but it seems to pump better, thankyou for confirming. i swaped the finned cover and put it on the cheapy. good vid.
Turns out when I make sure all the fittings are air tight that they flow about the same. When I put teflone tape and proper torque there is no burbling just flow.
I saw you comment on a comment saying it's a rotary vane pump and it's safe to run it with no oil. That's incorrect, brother. Rotary vane pumps are one of the style of pumps you don't run dry for extended periods of time. It's just like a power steering pump. And it's good practice to at least dump some oil in before you fire it up so it doesn't start bone dry.
I was wondering if you could show how you wired your scavenge pump up? I'm at this exact point and cannot find how others have wired it... Love the time delay too!
12 volt speed controller would have fixed that cheap oil pump and enabled you to adjust the flow rates( and the noise of the pump) it’s only for oil scavenging
Nice series. I pretty much watched all of them. +1 sub
6 років тому+1
So the beautiful thing on DC pump is that you can lower the voltage to match the flow needed and it might give more than the 30min duty cycle on the ebay one
@@TheLifeofaMan I successfully did using 100w power resistors. 6 resistors, 3ohms total, 0.5ohms each (3 x 2 in parallel). It gets hot, but ok for a resistor.
It depends on the pump. Not all pumps need to be full to work or run. This is a rotary vane style pump. The warranty and the manufacture state that this pump can be run completely dry for it entire life.
Another issue with those cheap China pumps is there’s grinding paste with metal inside most of those pumps. They don’t clean the inside after machining. Another guy on the web took one apart and it was a mess. I would hate to see somebody run that crud through a good engine or turbo.
+This0is0pointless that is more difficult and expensive than it sounds. I would basically have to have a pressure pump and scavenge pump mounted at the rear. Then rig up some type of puncture-less reservoir.
The small one is perhaps carbon brush DC motor that why it loud, Your new one is perhaps diaphragm pump. The first one wont last long because nature of the kind of motor and low quality Chinese carbon brush. The new one if it made in China it wont last long either cause Chinese don't exactly know how to make good rubber such as diaphragm rubber ,the rubber absorb oil then expand easily.
hi , i got a single turbo 3000gt, installed the turbo almost in the middle of radiator front. anyway car do smoke white color only when it gets worm and sometimes it dont somke... many guys told me that not ennough oil going into the turbo... so is the turbowrex will help the issue to be fixed?
So later I found out this pump can not flow enough to keep up with the demand. I ended up switching back to the cheap pump and it works way better. I used the heat sync and mounting from this pump on the old pump and now you can not even hear the cheap pump unless you are stopped and you really listen. I say get a $60 ebay pump and mount it well. I have had the cheap pump on there for about 2 years and still works fine. Just clean it out really good before you use it and you are golden.
+Michael Carreiro Not at all! I am using this as an oil scavenge system that means I am just moving the oil after it has already been through the turbo. As long as you pump out flows the outlet of the turbo there will be no issue. If done right the turbo outlet should only flow what you put in. I am restricting my oil supply so the outlet flow is tiny. The biggest thing to be worried about is oil supply to the turbo. The minute the oil supply is gone the turbo will be ruined.
Seems to be holding up just fine. I do not plan to run more than about 10 PSI even in the future stages. I plan to run 6-7 PSI for stage 1 and stage 2 probably 8-10. If I go over that it would be time for a newer car. It has a T56 tranny and old everything else so it would be cheaper to move up to a grand sport.
Couldn't you just have a small tank of oil back there and make it a closed loop system? Have the outlet of the pump, pumping into the turbo and it'll drain into the tank and go round and round. (Incoming oil to the turbo coming from the tank obviously.) Could even have a little oil cooler and it wouldn't cost much at all IMO. Just a thought.
I actually changed back to the loud one because the Spartan didn't flow enough. The cheapy is still working after 2 yrs. I had the Spartan on for about 6 month. Still go it in a box in the garage
xxblamedxx what is the oil pressure on these by chance, I read somewhere it should be between 50-60 psi..not sure if that means feeding the turbo or draining the turbo..they didnt specify in the reading..going to assume feeding, anyways do you know how much output pressure your old pump puts out?
I took it off and went back to the original pump. The original one flowed more and eliminate the smoking issues. I just did a better job of isolating it from the frame and now it is much quitter.
@@fernandohood5542 I don't know the name but they all the same. The original gear pump actually just stopped one day. Ran for like 3 years though. I bought one like this to replace it and it has been going over a year now www.amazon.com/Impeller-Lubricants-Machinery-Scavenge-Transfer/dp/B01F3GU1YU/ref=asc_df_B01F3GU1YU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242021983106&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18070589760259336027&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025805&hvtargid=pla-425487702188&psc=1
I used this exact pump on a low mount twin turbo mustang I had and it was great. The gravity drain just didn't have enough drop and so the turbos smoked front not draining correctly. Installed this and never had another issue.
yes there quiet, but for me it didn't last more than about 120 hrs. Bought a cheap china pump noisy as hell but it seems to pump better, thankyou for confirming. i swaped the finned cover and put it on the cheapy. good vid.
GRIFFS REARMOUNT TURBO, The Modfather -
Brotha, what’s pump did ya get? I’m on the fence about a few of them. Did ya do a vid on it?
www.amazon.com/Impeller-Lubricants-Machinery-Scavenge-Transfer/dp/B01F3GU1YU/ref=asc_df_B01F3GU1YU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242021983106&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18070589760259336027&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025805&hvtargid=pla-425487702188&psc=1
Great videos. I really liked the bench testing and priming tests. I think I've watched them all now and they have been very informative.
Definitely a lot better in regards to the noise level, but that flow from the old pump, better.
Turns out when I make sure all the fittings are air tight that they flow about the same. When I put teflone tape and proper torque there is no burbling just flow.
good selection on pump, that's what I used for mine, but I'm moving to front mount turbos now
I saw you comment on a comment saying it's a rotary vane pump and it's safe to run it with no oil.
That's incorrect, brother. Rotary vane pumps are one of the style of pumps you don't run dry for extended periods of time. It's just like a power steering pump. And it's good practice to at least dump some oil in before you fire it up so it doesn't start bone dry.
I was wondering if you could show how you wired your scavenge pump up? I'm at this exact point and cannot find how others have wired it... Love the time delay too!
Red wire from red terminal on the batter all the way tot he pump. Black wire ground to the frame. There is a ground stud for the rea wire harness.
12 volt speed controller would have fixed that cheap oil pump and enabled you to adjust the flow rates( and the noise of the pump) it’s only for oil scavenging
Thank you for the detailed info! Great Job!!
Good production, thank you.
Nice series. I pretty much watched all of them. +1 sub
So the beautiful thing on DC pump is that you can lower the voltage to match the flow needed and it might give more than the 30min duty cycle on the ebay one
I tried and never found a reliable method to do it. Tried resistor, DC reg, dc duty cycle. Nothing really did the trick
@@TheLifeofaMan good to know, cheers
@@TheLifeofaMan I successfully did using 100w power resistors. 6 resistors, 3ohms total, 0.5ohms each (3 x 2 in parallel). It gets hot, but ok for a resistor.
relly good videos and information planing on installing a turbo on my 2021 ram thanks
Never let a pump run dry
It won't last long, especially running them dry right out of the box.
It depends on the pump. Not all pumps need to be full to work or run. This is a rotary vane style pump. The warranty and the manufacture state that this pump can be run completely dry for it entire life.
yeah oil Pumps don't like dry runs they rely on the oil that they are pumping for lubrication
This is wonderful. I'l getting one for my build. If anything comes up I'll let you know :)
Very nice video
Another issue with those cheap China pumps is there’s grinding paste with metal inside most of those pumps. They don’t clean the inside after machining. Another guy on the web took one apart and it was a mess. I would hate to see somebody run that crud through a good engine or turbo.
Good video!
put dc motor speed controller on the noisy pump and decrease the speed, it will help.
Solved it in a later video. That pump turned out to not suck lol
great review!
why not just run a separate oil sump instead of pulling oil from the motor?
+This0is0pointless that is more difficult and expensive than it sounds. I would basically have to have a pressure pump and scavenge pump mounted at the rear. Then rig up some type of puncture-less reservoir.
did the eBay pump have a specific duty cylce?
Thanks from ksa
what is on the inside of the new pump?
The small one is perhaps carbon brush DC motor that why it loud, Your new one is perhaps diaphragm pump. The first one wont last long because nature of the kind of motor and low quality Chinese carbon brush. The new one if it made in China it wont last long either cause Chinese don't exactly know how to make good rubber such as diaphragm rubber ,the rubber absorb oil then expand easily.
What part number is the old pump? I dont mind the noise, I will have it on a hobbs switch anyway.
VenomGT87 your turbo needs oil all the time, not just when you're in boost
hi , i got a single turbo 3000gt, installed the turbo almost in the middle of radiator front. anyway car do smoke white color only when it gets worm and sometimes it dont somke...
many guys told me that not ennough oil going into the turbo...
so is the turbowrex will help the issue to be fixed?
I believe the turbo is smoking because is getting more oil that what it needs, you can try a smaller oil feed inlet for the turbo
good vids man.
Great video and very helpful! How would you compare this to the Tilton cooler pump (40-524)? I feel like this is still quieter.
So later I found out this pump can not flow enough to keep up with the demand. I ended up switching back to the cheap pump and it works way better. I used the heat sync and mounting from this pump on the old pump and now you can not even hear the cheap pump unless you are stopped and you really listen. I say get a $60 ebay pump and mount it well. I have had the cheap pump on there for about 2 years and still works fine. Just clean it out really good before you use it and you are golden.
@@TheLifeofaMan have link to the 60 ebay pump?
Not sure if this is alive or not but which two pumps did you use? Old and Turbowerx. Links by chance?
More car videos good sir!
what's the speedo limito ,there by where you live? just curious
So do you think the lower flow rate will affect the reliability of the turbos?
+Michael Carreiro Not at all! I am using this as an oil scavenge system that means I am just moving the oil after it has already been through the turbo. As long as you pump out flows the outlet of the turbo there will be no issue. If done right the turbo outlet should only flow what you put in. I am restricting my oil supply so the outlet flow is tiny. The biggest thing to be worried about is oil supply to the turbo. The minute the oil supply is gone the turbo will be ruined.
+xxblamedxx hey, how is the alumaweld stuff holding up, what psi you running
Seems to be holding up just fine. I do not plan to run more than about 10 PSI even in the future stages. I plan to run 6-7 PSI for stage 1 and stage 2 probably 8-10. If I go over that it would be time for a newer car. It has a T56 tranny and old everything else so it would be cheaper to move up to a grand sport.
+Michael Carreiro Not one bit. The pump still out flows the turbo outlet.
Couldn't you just have a small tank of oil back there and make it a closed loop system? Have the outlet of the pump, pumping into the turbo and it'll drain into the tank and go round and round. (Incoming oil to the turbo coming from the tank obviously.) Could even have a little oil cooler and it wouldn't cost much at all IMO.
Just a thought.
where did you get the pump? what kind/name is the pump?
It is in the title of the video. I got it from tubrowerx. One thing to be careful of is that all the seals from the turbo to the pump are air tight.
ok, thanks!
3 years later, how is the pump holding up? Thanks!
I actually changed back to the loud one because the Spartan didn't flow enough. The cheapy is still working after 2 yrs. I had the Spartan on for about 6 month. Still go it in a box in the garage
@@TheLifeofaMan would you sell it to me?
Sorry man keeping it for meth injection
@@TheLifeofaMan That noise would drive me bonkers. Surely there must be a quiet hi flow pump
Use ur old oil pump as a way of pumping old oil into cans for recycling ... just a thought
still got it if you want it haha
xxblamedxx what is the oil pressure on these by chance, I read somewhere it should be between 50-60 psi..not sure if that means feeding the turbo or draining the turbo..they didnt specify in the reading..going to assume feeding, anyways do you know how much output pressure your old pump puts out?
@@zenpro8164 you don't need any pressure as long as the return to the oil pan is above the sump line
Can u say chinese made?
which one has more psi?
Not sure what you mean, but the gear pump ended up being the better solution. I took off the turbowerx pump.
Does it still work?
Nope the cheap one is better. I just isolated the pump better on the frame to get it more quite.
Is this pump still working?
I took it off and went back to the original pump. The original one flowed more and eliminate the smoking issues. I just did a better job of isolating it from the frame and now it is much quitter.
What is the name of the old one.
@@fernandohood5542 I don't know the name but they all the same. The original gear pump actually just stopped one day. Ran for like 3 years though. I bought one like this to replace it and it has been going over a year now
www.amazon.com/Impeller-Lubricants-Machinery-Scavenge-Transfer/dp/B01F3GU1YU/ref=asc_df_B01F3GU1YU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242021983106&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18070589760259336027&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025805&hvtargid=pla-425487702188&psc=1
🤦🏼♂️
did the eBay pump have a specific duty cylce?
I have no idea