Good Job! You have natural mechanical ability- I inherited one of these motors - Low hours Been sitting 17yrs - Going to see if I can give it new life - Your video will come in handy- Thanks
Very important to note: If you have the plastic bodied carbs, the inlet seat does NOT use a washer under the seat. From a marine tech with many years of experience on OMC outboards.
Will's Garage I believe you put an O ring under the inlet screw or somewhere? it raised your float height. that O ring goes before the little gasket on the center tube... by the float.?? I put mine in the hole on the float bowl.. that aT it could seat itself.. hopefully
Wow, for not being professionally trained you sure are brave tearing it down like that, good job really. Getting ready to take my 1993 Johnson 175 Ocean Runner carbs apart for the 1st time since it was built. I will only use OEM factory parts and will of course properly clean the carbs as well as set the float height and drop etc., but I do admire your effort and your excellent video.
Hi there, I have the same motor. I recently had the carbs rebuilt. I have water coming from the brass tube to the right of the bolt you tighten in your video at 10:40. What is this supposed to attach to? Is there something missing?
Danny R yes. Any place that there is water coming out is part of the block or cylinder head cooling system. There is a series of small hoses that connect. I’d look carefully for the hose that you see attached to the brass fitting in my video. If it is simply falling off it is laying in there somewhere.
Do you have a video of how you repaired the ball bearings? I have a 94 175 and the sealant on the ball bearings is leaking. You talked about placing wood dowels in the tubes, but how do you get them out? Thanks!
At 10:03 that hose that’s on a T and not connected does that go on that small brass fitting on the front of the carb? I did my carb earlier today and don’t remember that being attached when I took it apart
That hose goes into the airbox. It’s either a vent or a fuel overflow. It doesn’t actually connect to anything it just goes through a hole in the airbox and as long as the air box is attached it stays in position.
hi, great point. i did remove the jets and shoot carb cleaner through them. that might make a great future video. jet cleaning. thanks for the comment.
where on earth did the little throttle body screw fall to? I successfully did the rebuild with the help of your videos. I then realized my middle starboard float bowl was still seeping. maybe I put the old bowl back on by accident. I took the top carb off and dropped the little screw you said don't drop. I use bed pads to catch the gas and everything but that screw has vanished. where did your dropped screw go?
what does the 5 screw side diaphragm do? Fuel pump? Having carb probs on a 150 OP. Noticed the idle screw compartment doesn't fill with fuel either... (2 screws over small gasket compartment on the side).
In my opinion, it creates a specific amount of vacuum or has something to do with the necessary vacuum needed to pull the fuel up through the injection pipe which you can see in the middle of the intake. I could be way off, but this is what I think it’s for.
@@bobbygflThanks for your response!! I did the rebuild 2x... didn't pull the base like you did on the port side...ran better than before (almost usable) but now I have backfire...somethings too lean or too rich I suspect. Thanks again.
someone else has told me that as well. there does not seem to be a perfformance difference with or without. thank you though. I recently replaced the bowls with new ones leaving out the wahser.
depends on where the leak is. replacing the bowl and gasket is probably your best bet. just reassemble the same way the parts come out of the old bowl.
The brass tube seems to be part of the carburetor but you don't connect anything to the brass tube. Is this supposed to be open? Thanks for a great video
Danny R oh that brass fitting. Honestly I need to pull the motor cover and look. I won’t be back at the boat for two weeks but I will check and reply back.
do you remember if you torqued the bolts for the float bowls and the throttle bodies? I put them snug/firm but was worried about cracked the plastic so I didn't do it too tight? do you have a recommendation? thanks...
In this video you can see where I have completely epoxied the side where the ball bearing is. I clean it with acetone and fill the area with west systems 610 or g-flex. ua-cam.com/video/-bOvx5Am7uc/v-deo.html
@@Dalton-g4b make sure it’s clean dry and free of any oil. Brand new out of the box is ideal. Lightly sand, the area that you can see in my video covered with epoxy. It’s basically the plastic structural features of the bowl. I think I used 120 grit. Enough to create some texture to really hold the epoxy. Blow out the dust. Wipe again with alcohol. Then take a popsicle stick or some other tool to spread epoxy over the entire area. Press it into the ball bearing. Make a nice pile of it. Let it cure and that bowl should be leak free for many years.
Its not a float pin its an inlet needle, the float pin holds the float. Did you check float drop? when you place the gasket under the seat and reset the float level, you diminish the available float drop. Which is necessary for WOT as not to lean the engine out. Also did you check the plastic float chambers for warpage? This is the cause of most of the fuel leaks, hard hot starting and cylinder seizures on the Johnson/Evinrude engines. Sometimes you can sand them flat on a piece of glass.
@@bobbygfl Interesting. Been tuning it and found out the factory setting is 4 turns from closed based on the FSM I bought, we have never adjusted them before and they were set at 8 turns. Is that somewhat normal? I know some dealers based on location will alter the factory settings.
The ones I fixed only lasted a year. Remove the ball bearing. Clean the bowl with cleaner. Lightly sand the area to be Epoxyed. Clean and dry. Insert the Insert a wood dowel (kabob sticks work well) in the top hole and push all the way to the bottom of the hole. You'll see it through the hole where the ball bearing was. Fill the hole with black marine tex. let cure 90% (30-40 minutes) and remove woode dowel. Let cure overnight and reassemble. Should be leak free for some period of time.
The hole/inlet from the top appears to be smaller than the horizontal hole. So, best to simply leave the ball bearing in. Also, someone else has suggested to simply plastic weld the hole, rather than JB Weld or Marine Tex.
I’ve got a 96 115 ocean runner, cleaned the carbs, set the floats, float pins perfect, spaghetti gasket good, even bought a new carb body. On my top starboard side carb, fuel leaks continuously out of the top hole. I’ve checked everything multiple times, the entire carb has been replaced at this point and I still have a lot of fuel dumping out of the over flow Hole and it ends up flooding the motor. Any ideas? Is there a vacuum system that could be causing this. I’m fairly certain it’s not the carb at this point (again: new float bowl, now carb body, new gaskets, new float pin and seat), multiple adjustments and the fuel is still dumping out about an Ounce of fuel every 20 seconds.
@@bobbygfl hi, thanks for your reply. They are overflowing for sure. With the primer and also when try-out to start this engine. Bend the float like in the video. If it was one ok but all 4😒. Read something about warped...
@@bobbygfl hi Bobby, we found what was going on. i disconnect the fuel rail from the left side carbs because i opend up the right side carbs again and wanted to test them without the left side overflowing again. I starten priming and again both sides where overflowing. I thought how can this be, the fuel rail was not connected but stil they overflow. Turns out the Electric primer valve was stuck and the gas came from the aluminum platen behind it.
Oh wow. Thanks for explaining that. I can totally picture what’s happening. These motors are so amazing. if you just keep digging, it seems like almost everything is fixable. Like an old house that just keeps on standing.
You have to imagine the entire thing is upside down and under vacuum that tube would suck fuel. Vacuum would be caused by straining the motor, for instance, under full throttle or choking. it’s simply way to get more fuel into the carburetor when dictated by the amount of vacuum.
So what you pulled off the plastic carb? Is all that i need to pull off to clean it? what is the metal part it came off of REEDS??? I have never attempted a boat carb and im stumped cause i dont see the jets in your video. Are they are inside that plastic carb u pulled off ???
I'm having a leak in the carb bowl were the bearing "was" it's the bottom carb on the V4, I see you used marine tex, to fix the leak, can you put that on without removing the carb?
I actually had same problem with my one of my carbs but ball bearing was missing, ended up just putting some JB weld over the hole. Question is how important is it to remove all the stuff in the inside ? Or is the JB weld over the hole enough ? Awesome video by the way should help save some money that’s for sure!
From Bass2Trout thanks! The hole connects an L channel. If you just cover it with weld it’ll be fine. If you press it in too far and block the channel it’ll cause a fuel problem for that carb. That’s my understanding anyway!! Hope that helps.
I have a 1999 90 Johnson, my check engine light comes on which is for fuel restrictions. I've replaced everything from the motor to the fuel tank. The light still comes on. Now the motor hates to idle, but it will run wot. Would carbs cause the light to come on or is this a fuel pump issue? Thank you
Scott Lively there’s nothing electronic on the carbs so I doubt it. Fuel or power pack would be my guess. Could be timing, maybe advance or retard the high level of the timing thing on top.
YOLOfotos I replaced the power pack and both coil packs as well, the light comes on even during wot . It comes on then goes off. However the note has a very slight vibration almost like a fuel restriction I have a new prop as well , what test could I perform to see if my carbs are working correctly? Or my fuel pump.
Yes. I did not do it personally but when we were troubleshooting this motor for bogging down at high RPM we took the intake manifold off and soaked them, and then reinstalled with new O-rings. Used some grease to keep them seated. Turned out to be the problem but they did just come right off. The problem was a small piece of plastic curled up in the bowl where the high-speed Pick Up jet screws in which would create a valve affect at high RPM. The little curly piece of plastic cross thread would bend over the jet Blocking fuel crazy but once we figured that out and replaced the bowls, problem solved
Rebuilding my 1997 150 carbs today. Same engine really. I was curious, have you dealt with these plastic carbs warping over time along the bowl-body seal? Mine look slightly warped and are leaking a little. (before my rebuild at least).
Devin DeLuca The original equipment warped, The replacements have not warped they’ve been in for... ever since I did this video. There’s a ball bearing thing on one side and I epoxied it in when new and they have never leaked.
@@bobbygfl Yeah I went ahead and replaced all 6 bowls. Took the boat out and it was running like a top, then got home to idle and flush... about 10 minutes into idling the motor just slowly died. Sounded like it ran out of gas but there is gas in the carbs, I checked. primed it some more and now it will just crank forever and not catch. Stumped.
My 1998 intruder 150 bowls warped also. Prior owner said he had them replaced once as well. I bought new bowls and replaced them. Correct torque and all. One year of a lot of use and they are slightly leaking again. Not sure if warped or the bearing. Seem warped again
the other parts are the water pump relpacement and thermo and spark plug one. go to my channel and scroll through. they are all together. thanks for watching!
Where does the port balance tubes connect. I recently just brought the same motor. But the port balance tubes are disconnected. So is the lower crank bearing vacuum hose.
Robert Cooper I’m sorry I have no idea. I wish I could help you. Call West Marine in Fort Myers Florida. Ask for Gary in parts. 239-985-6700. He has helped with numerous questions on this motor. Hope that helps!!
@@bobbygfl Thanks for that, btw...should the hinge pin be snug to the float arm or relatively loose. Reason Im asking is I'm concerned that it might come off if too loose. When its snug though I notice it doesn't open as freely
hi i have a 1995 90hp model j90eleoc v4 and i have raw gas al over my carb he used to leak in right top side now i see the same leak in 2 tops carb need help motor ran great but is a hazards fire im really concern what i suppose to do rebuild them like you do or what is the posible problem i only see gas when motor in on ??? any help i will appreciate
Hi I know this is a old video my bowls always warp .Do you know if a metal bowl from any carburetor would replace the plastic bowls. I can take a 6 carburetors off my 1992 150 30 minutes I have done it do much Many Thanks
Ken Mazza hi. The original bowls were plastic. And they warp. The newer evinrude or aftermarket Sierra bowls are a different material. It’s a Fiberglass impregnated type of plastic. They do not warp. Or at least have not for me. Hope that helps! This motor is still going strong.
@@bobbygfl Thanks for your input I ordered 6 but I can not find anyone that can tell me how to read thg he bar code to find the manufacturer date I don't want old stock and up with the same problem do you know how to read the barcode for manufacturers date Many Thanks Ken
Ken Mazza I don’t. But I have called Evinrude a couple times and they have been a huge help. Maybe they will be able to help you. This is number I have used in the past. +18774127467
so your doing all that to the first carburetor without cleaning the carburetor? you dont think its necc to clean out the jets etc, with cleaner spray, never saw anyone remove a carburetor replace gaskets etc, and not clean out the carb.
i replace all the seals and i find out i still have a lil leak on the lil bearing on the side the one you seal with marine tec so i guest i have to take everything apart again and fix that
OK, in the comments YOLOfotos has updated this info./video some. His carb leak repair with Marine Tex did not hold up. Also, when he replaced the bowls after the failure, he did not put the paper gasket under the needle valve inlet orifice (that improperly raised the needle valve). Others had pointed out that the plastic bowls do not use the gasked under the needle valve orifice. Wish I'd have read this, more of the comments, before I rebuilt mine. I was thinking the gasket was a bad idea; Have at least two needle valves not closing properly. . . Now, to remove them again and remove the gaskets. Also, it may be better to simply clean the hole where the BB is leaking (cleaning out the small amount of factory glue around the BB and cleaning the area with Denatured Alcohol) and to plastic weld the hole closed, leaving the BB in it (I think the material is ABS, haven't properly checked it to see for sure, though).
Daniel McElhiney yes, it can. But as I recall it was very obvious how not to change the needle positions on the flow valves. I literally did nothing else outside of what you see in this video and the motor has run perfectly for years.
See the comment directly under this. That viewer criticized a bunch of stuff I skipped. If I payed a mechanic a bunch of money I'm sure those things would've been done however I did not and it didn't seem to matter.
I'm a do it yourself kind of person as well I like to save money and learn new things. don't Matter what others think I'm just glad to see someone get in there and do it.
Hi Brian, they were falling out! I could not get enough epoxy over them and had to remove the ball bearing, insert wood dowels in both channels, epoxy the hole where the bearing was and then remove the wood dowels. Pain in the butt but it worked. Since then I have replaced all bodies and the newer assemblies have not leaked. I'm told they don't leak for many years. So far so good. Thanks for the view!
Robert Bunnell thanks for the comment. Just for your reference must be an optional mistake. this motor has been running perfectly for over seven years haven’t touched the carbs since this rebuild.
If you didnt clean the carbs and it ran fine, there probably wasnt much wrong with them to begin with un less your main jet was plugged. In that case all you really had to do was clean the main jet.
This video skips many crucial steps in the "carb rebuild" as he has called it.He never cleans any of the parts, he never cleans the throttle bodies (behind the metal square plate), all he does is replace gaskets, basically.Very incomplete job here.
Thanks for the call outs. I'm not a mechanic. Wish I knew to do the stuff you mentioned. Fortunately the work is holding up. The motor runs perfectly after all these years. If you have a link for a more complete job please include it the notes.
he lost my confidence when he called the fuel bowl needle valve a "pin" ... BUT I've never pulled apart one of these motors before and just bought a used boat motor I want to go through so his teardown was very helpful
NO JETS ! I need to tell everyone that I also replaced the carb bowls but the new ones DID NOT HAVE JETS INSTALLED IN THEM ! No wonder OMC went out of business
Trust me=You NEED to also sand the float bowl FLAT....They will all warp, leak, not seal on the Hi-Speed pick up pipe, and bogg down when into the throttle...We FINALLY fixed our Johnson 115 Fast Strike by sanding the float bowls FLAT...Bill.
Amazingly they must not have needed it. Didn’t give me a single problem for 9 years. About six months ago started losing rpm at full throttle. Turned out to be a bit of bowl plastic from screwing in the jet that curled around it.
You made a lot of mistakes. Always replace the float pin well because it often is gummed up the same as the float pin also replace the floats because the hinges are often gummed up and very hard to see. Not a professional.
hi, great point. i did remove the jets and shoot carb cleaner through them. that might make a great future video. jet cleaning. thanks for the comment.
9 Years later..... Got a 94' 150. Super similar. Want to pull and clean the jets. Do you know the factory set? Is it seat, then out 3 turns? Or something like that?
the other parts are the water pump relpacement and thermo and spark plug one. go to my channel and scroll through. they are all together. thanks for watching!
Good Job! You have natural mechanical ability- I inherited one of these motors - Low hours Been sitting 17yrs - Going to see if I can give it new life - Your video will come in handy- Thanks
Thank you! I have a bunch on this motor.
Very important to note:
If you have the plastic bodied carbs, the inlet seat does NOT use a washer under the seat. From a marine tech with many years of experience on OMC outboards.
Will's Garage I believe you put an O ring under the inlet screw or somewhere? it raised your float height. that O ring goes before the little gasket on the center tube... by the float.?? I put mine in the hole on the float bowl.. that aT it could seat itself.. hopefully
Hey bud, I have a 94 johnson 150, would the carb rebuild be the same?
Thanks
Wow, for not being professionally trained you sure are brave tearing it down like that, good job really. Getting ready to take my 1993 Johnson 175 Ocean Runner carbs apart for the 1st time since it was built. I will only use OEM factory parts and will of course properly clean the carbs as well as set the float height and drop etc., but I do admire your effort and your excellent video.
artillerybuff2000 thank you! I have not touched them since this video! Starts and runs perfectly. I’m a little amazed myself lol.
Thank you for this video! This helped me to solve an issue with the float in one of the carbs on my 1999 Johnson - saved me a lot of time and money!
Thanks!
When were the carbs actually cleaned? This was just a take a part the bowl put back together with new gaskets video.
No
Thanks helpful info and one of my favorite songs. Cheers
Glad to help!
Very well done video! THANK YOU!
CAM GAUSE thank you!!
Best video that i have seen!
Thank you!
Complimenti sei bravissimo
Thanks!
Hi there, I have the same motor. I recently had the carbs rebuilt. I have water coming from the brass tube to the right of the bolt you tighten in your video at 10:40. What is this supposed to attach to? Is there something missing?
Danny R yes. Any place that there is water coming out is part of the block or cylinder head cooling system. There is a series of small hoses that connect. I’d look carefully for the hose that you see attached to the brass fitting in my video. If it is simply falling off it is laying in there somewhere.
Do you have a video of how you repaired the ball bearings? I have a 94 175 and the sealant on the ball bearings is leaking. You talked about placing wood dowels in the tubes, but how do you get them out? Thanks!
I do. Years later
At 10:03 that hose that’s on a T and not connected does that go on that small brass fitting on the front of the carb? I did my carb earlier today and don’t remember that being attached when I took it apart
That hose goes into the airbox. It’s either a vent or a fuel overflow. It doesn’t actually connect to anything it just goes through a hole in the airbox and as long as the air box is attached it stays in position.
Hey man great video! Do you have a video on how to fix the ball-bearing part? I have the issue.
I don’t but just sand it with 320, clean it with acetone and gob it up with epoxy. I used black marine tex. Hard to screw up.
hi, great point. i did remove the jets and shoot carb cleaner through them. that might make a great future video. jet cleaning. thanks for the comment.
you can use the video to tear down and rebuild wit the same parts. use any carb cleaning spray to shoot through the jets.
where on earth did the little throttle body screw fall to? I successfully did the rebuild with the help of your videos. I then realized my middle starboard float bowl was still seeping. maybe I put the old bowl back on by accident. I took the top carb off and dropped the little screw you said don't drop. I use bed pads to catch the gas and everything but that screw has vanished. where did your dropped screw go?
For me, it ends up in the lower cowling. Hope you found it.
what does the 5 screw side diaphragm do? Fuel pump? Having carb probs on a 150 OP. Noticed the idle screw compartment doesn't fill with fuel either... (2 screws over small gasket compartment on the side).
In my opinion, it creates a specific amount of vacuum or has something to do with the necessary vacuum needed to pull the fuel up through the injection pipe which you can see in the middle of the intake. I could be way off, but this is what I think it’s for.
@@bobbygflThanks for your response!! I did the rebuild 2x... didn't pull the base like you did on the port side...ran better than before (almost usable) but now I have backfire...somethings too lean or too rich I suspect. Thanks again.
someone else has told me that as well. there does not seem to be a perfformance difference with or without. thank you though. I recently replaced the bowls with new ones leaving out the wahser.
depends on where the leak is. replacing the bowl and gasket is probably your best bet. just reassemble the same way the parts come out of the old bowl.
The brass tube seems to be part of the carburetor but you don't connect anything to the brass tube. Is this supposed to be open? Thanks for a great video
Danny R oh that brass fitting. Honestly I need to pull the motor cover and look. I won’t be back at the boat for two weeks but I will check and reply back.
Can you do a tune and timing video on these motors?
Cktime ThirtyTwo next time I do the work yes. Thanks for the comment.
do you remember if you torqued the bolts for the float bowls and the throttle bodies? I put them snug/firm but was worried about cracked the plastic so I didn't do it too tight? do you have a recommendation? thanks...
mongoosevacations I did not torque them with a torque wrench. I'd say 1/2 turn past tight. Hope that helps. They've never loosened.
Do you have video showing how you used the wood dowels to seal hole with ball bearing??
In this video you can see where I have completely epoxied the side where the ball bearing is. I clean it with acetone and fill the area with west systems 610 or g-flex. ua-cam.com/video/-bOvx5Am7uc/v-deo.html
Do I just cover the side or do I channel it out? Leave ball bearing in there?
@@Dalton-g4b make sure it’s clean dry and free of any oil. Brand new out of the box is ideal. Lightly sand, the area that you can see in my video covered with epoxy. It’s basically the plastic structural features of the bowl. I think I used 120 grit. Enough to create some texture to really hold the epoxy. Blow out the dust. Wipe again with alcohol. Then take a popsicle stick or some other tool to spread epoxy over the entire area. Press it into the ball bearing. Make a nice pile of it. Let it cure and that bowl should be leak free for many years.
Very helpful video.
Thanks!!
Its not a float pin its an inlet needle, the float pin holds the float. Did you check float drop? when you place the gasket under the seat and reset the float level, you diminish the available float drop. Which is necessary for WOT as not to lean the engine out. Also did you check the plastic float chambers for warpage? This is the cause of most of the fuel leaks, hard hot starting and cylinder seizures on the Johnson/Evinrude engines. Sometimes you can sand them flat on a piece of glass.
Thanks
Is that idle mixture adjustment screw a fuel or air screw? My guess is a fuel adjustment screw but I cant say definitively.
It’s fuel. it has a pointy tip on the back and seats in a cone
@@bobbygfl Interesting. Been tuning it and found out the factory setting is 4 turns from closed based on the FSM I bought, we have never adjusted them before and they were set at 8 turns. Is that somewhat normal? I know some dealers based on location will alter the factory settings.
The ones I fixed only lasted a year. Remove the ball bearing. Clean the bowl with cleaner. Lightly sand the area to be Epoxyed. Clean and dry. Insert the Insert a wood dowel (kabob sticks work well) in the top hole and push all the way to the bottom of the hole. You'll see it through the hole where the ball bearing was. Fill the hole with black marine tex. let cure 90% (30-40 minutes) and remove woode dowel. Let cure overnight and reassemble. Should be leak free for some period of time.
The hole/inlet from the top appears to be smaller than the horizontal hole. So, best to simply leave the ball bearing in. Also, someone else has suggested to simply plastic weld the hole, rather than JB Weld or Marine Tex.
I’ve got a 96 115 ocean runner, cleaned the carbs, set the floats, float pins perfect, spaghetti gasket good, even bought a new carb body. On my top starboard side carb, fuel leaks continuously out of the top hole. I’ve checked everything multiple times, the entire carb has been replaced at this point and I still have a lot of fuel dumping out of the over flow
Hole and it ends up flooding the motor. Any ideas? Is there a vacuum system that could be causing this. I’m fairly certain it’s not the carb at this point (again: new float bowl, now carb body, new gaskets, new float pin and seat), multiple adjustments and the fuel is still dumping out about an Ounce of fuel every 20 seconds.
Have you replaced the float in the main chamber above the fuel pump. Seems like that is not closing. Hope that helps.
Nice video. Just rebuild 4 carbs like these because of leaking gas in the air box. After rebuild they still leak. Driving me nuts. Got any ideas?
Hummm. Are they leaking or overflowing? Maybe too rich?
@@bobbygfl hi, thanks for your reply. They are overflowing for sure. With the primer and also when try-out to start this engine. Bend the float like in the video. If it was one ok but all 4😒. Read something about warped...
Did you replace the bowls? I’m assuming yes. Let me ask Mechanic I know and I’ll reply back
@@bobbygfl hi Bobby, we found what was going on. i disconnect the fuel rail from the left side carbs because i opend up the right side carbs again and wanted to test them without the left side overflowing again. I starten priming and again both sides where overflowing. I thought how can this be, the fuel rail was not connected but stil they overflow. Turns out the Electric primer valve was stuck and the gas came from the aluminum platen behind it.
Oh wow. Thanks for explaining that. I can totally picture what’s happening. These motors are so amazing. if you just keep digging, it seems like almost everything is fixable. Like an old house that just keeps on standing.
Well done....thank u
Thanks!
Great video.....thank u
Sheik Shakur thanks!!
What is the straw looking piece at 5:37? What is its function?
I believe that's the choke pickup tube but not 100 on that
You have to imagine the entire thing is upside down and under vacuum that tube would suck fuel. Vacuum would be caused by straining the motor, for instance, under full throttle or choking. it’s simply way to get more fuel into the carburetor when dictated by the amount of vacuum.
Mines a 93 it does not have the little plate on the sides. Also do you know the toque of the bolts that hold the carb to the motor?
Tom Harmon I’m sorry, no.
My carb exactly yours. What number is the rebuild kit?
I believe it’s in this video Evinrude 150 Complete Carburetor Rebuild
ua-cam.com/video/-bOvx5Am7uc/v-deo.html
Now I've got one hell of a headache. I admire your youth and vigor and enthusiasm. Do the newer four strokes have those dam carburetors? LOL!
Lol. I'd buy an eTec if I re powered. The 4's are too heavy and don't wind up fast enough.
So what you pulled off the plastic carb? Is all that i need to pull off to clean it? what is the metal part it came off of REEDS???
I have never attempted a boat carb and im stumped cause i dont see the jets in your video. Are they are inside that plastic carb u pulled off ???
Thanks
I'm having a leak in the carb bowl were the bearing "was" it's the bottom carb on the V4, I see you used marine tex, to fix the leak, can you put that on without removing the carb?
Ching Ling yes. Just make sure it’s very clean.
YOLOfotos I also have the same ball bearing leak on a 1995 115hp. How would you glue up without taking carb off? How would you get bearing out?
I actually had same problem with my one of my carbs but ball bearing was missing, ended up just putting some JB weld over the hole. Question is how important is it to remove all the stuff in the inside ? Or is the JB weld over the hole enough ? Awesome video by the way should help save some money that’s for sure!
From Bass2Trout thanks! The hole connects an L channel. If you just cover it with weld it’ll be fine. If you press it in too far and block the channel it’ll cause a fuel problem for that carb. That’s my understanding anyway!! Hope that helps.
spray out carb orfices to insure no junk in them. Deep creep spray works, oil gaskets lighty with twcw3 on carb then no tearing.
Thanks
I have a 1999 90 Johnson, my check engine light comes on which is for fuel restrictions. I've replaced everything from the motor to the fuel tank. The light still comes on. Now the motor hates to idle, but it will run wot. Would carbs cause the light to come on or is this a fuel pump issue? Thank you
Scott Lively there’s nothing electronic on the carbs so I doubt it. Fuel or power pack would be my guess. Could be timing, maybe advance or retard the high level of the timing thing on top.
YOLOfotos
I replaced the power pack and both coil packs as well, the light comes on even during wot . It comes on then goes off. However the note has a very slight vibration almost like a fuel restriction I have a new prop as well , what test could I perform to see if my carbs are working correctly? Or my fuel pump.
Scott Lively other than replacing the pump, I have no idea. Sorry I’m not much help. Good luck though.
hi, they are on my channel. just click related videos on the main page.
Have you had to change the intake o rings
Yes. I did not do it personally but when we were troubleshooting this motor for bogging down at high RPM we took the intake manifold off and soaked them, and then reinstalled with new O-rings. Used some grease to keep them seated. Turned out to be the problem but they did just come right off. The problem was a small piece of plastic curled up in the bowl where the high-speed Pick Up jet screws in which would create a valve affect at high RPM. The little curly piece of plastic cross thread would bend over the jet Blocking fuel crazy but once we figured that out and replaced the bowls, problem solved
Rebuilding my 1997 150 carbs today. Same engine really. I was curious, have you dealt with these plastic carbs warping over time along the bowl-body seal? Mine look slightly warped and are leaking a little. (before my rebuild at least).
Devin DeLuca The original equipment warped, The replacements have not warped they’ve been in for... ever since I did this video. There’s a ball bearing thing on one side and I epoxied it in when new and they have never leaked.
@@bobbygfl Yeah I went ahead and replaced all 6 bowls. Took the boat out and it was running like a top, then got home to idle and flush... about 10 minutes into idling the motor just slowly died. Sounded like it ran out of gas but there is gas in the carbs, I checked. primed it some more and now it will just crank forever and not catch. Stumped.
Devin DeLuca I replaced my coils and power pack also. Maybe it’s not the carbs
My 1998 intruder 150 bowls warped also. Prior owner said he had them replaced once as well. I bought new bowls and replaced them. Correct torque and all. One year of a lot of use and they are slightly leaking again. Not sure if warped or the bearing. Seem warped again
where is part one or three?
Also, how do you adjust the air mixture????
Thanks
Thanks
the other parts are the water pump relpacement and thermo and spark plug one. go to my channel and scroll through. they are all together. thanks for watching!
Where does the port balance tubes connect. I recently just brought the same motor. But the port balance tubes are disconnected. So is the lower crank bearing vacuum hose.
Robert Cooper I’m sorry I have no idea. I wish I could help you. Call West Marine in Fort Myers Florida. Ask for Gary in parts. 239-985-6700. He has helped with numerous questions on this motor. Hope that helps!!
Alright ill give him a call, do you know or remember what your turns was for the mix screw. I just need a base to start with.
Robert Cooper I never messed with the mix screws.
Port hose bottom of front cover
@@robcooper3171 six turns max from seating
ok but what about cleaning the jets etc , if you have a gunked up carb?
Is it all the plastic part?
Yes
Hey YOLO, where did you get the rebuild kit?
A local shop. Also available on line from www.crowleymarine.com/
@@bobbygfl Thanks for that, btw...should the hinge pin be snug to the float arm or relatively loose. Reason Im asking is I'm concerned that it might come off if too loose. When its snug though I notice it doesn't open as freely
Everything was tightened “tight” I hope that helps. The hinge pin is just held by the screw so I’m not sure what you are asking.
hi i have a 1995 90hp model j90eleoc v4 and i have raw gas al over my carb he used to leak in right top side now i see the same leak in 2 tops carb need help motor ran great but is a hazards fire im really concern what i suppose to do rebuild them like you do or what is the posible problem i only see gas when motor in on ??? any help i will appreciate
Sorry so long for the response. Hope you figured it out.
one of the carburetor is over flooding what can i to for a quick fix?
Demetria Savage I would tighten down the idle needle.
Hi I know this is a old video my bowls always warp .Do you know if a metal bowl from any carburetor would replace the plastic bowls.
I can take a 6 carburetors off my 1992 150 30 minutes I have done it do much
Many Thanks
Ken Mazza hi. The original bowls were plastic. And they warp. The newer evinrude or aftermarket Sierra bowls are a different material. It’s a Fiberglass impregnated type of plastic. They do not warp. Or at least have not for me. Hope that helps! This motor is still going strong.
@@bobbygfl Thanks for your input I ordered 6 but I can not find anyone that can tell me how to read thg he bar code to find the manufacturer date
I don't want old stock and up with the same problem do you know how to read the barcode for manufacturers date
Many Thanks
Ken
Ken Mazza I don’t. But I have called Evinrude a couple times and they have been a huge help. Maybe they will be able to help you. This is number I have used in the past. +18774127467
@@bobbygfl many Thanks I will let you know if they helped
so your doing all that to the first carburetor without cleaning the carburetor? you dont think its necc to clean out the jets etc, with cleaner spray, never saw anyone remove a carburetor replace gaskets etc, and not clean out the carb.
First time I ever did it. I’m pretty sure I did shoot carburetor cleaner through the jet I must not have included it on the video
have evinrude 115 hp electric chocke want open ,what could be wrong with it?
Hope you figured it out
i have a fuel leak in one of the carburetor. i have 1999 johnson 90 hp. how do i fix the leak?
I have the same leak
Replace the bowls
i replace all the seals and i find out i still have a lil leak on the lil bearing on the side the one you seal with marine tec so i guest i have to take everything apart again and fix that
I hope you figured it out
OK, in the comments YOLOfotos has updated this info./video some. His carb leak repair with Marine Tex did not hold up. Also, when he replaced the bowls after the failure, he did not put the paper gasket under the needle valve inlet orifice (that improperly raised the needle valve). Others had pointed out that the plastic bowls do not use the gasked under the needle valve orifice. Wish I'd have read this, more of the comments, before I rebuilt mine. I was thinking the gasket was a bad idea; Have at least two needle valves not closing properly. . . Now, to remove them again and remove the gaskets. Also, it may be better to simply clean the hole where the BB is leaking (cleaning out the small amount of factory glue around the BB and cleaning the area with Denatured Alcohol) and to plastic weld the hole closed, leaving the BB in it (I think the material is ABS, haven't properly checked it to see for sure, though).
I'm going to rebuild mine today and try using JB weld.
Good to know thank you so much for the comment
Yes, Same for Johnson
if your gaskets are good, my bet is your carb bodies are warped and need to be replaced. not that expensive,
I didnt see you giving the carbys a clean?
I didn’t. Everything I did is in the video. I did a decarb at one point before rebuilding but not during the rebuild.
don't you have to synchronize the carbs after you've done this?
Daniel McElhiney I have no idea. I did not and those carbs are still going strong. So, no in my case.
I know carbs have adjustments so doing this doesn't change the settings?
Daniel McElhiney yes, it can. But as I recall it was very obvious how not to change the needle positions on the flow valves. I literally did nothing else outside of what you see in this video and the motor has run perfectly for years.
See the comment directly under this. That viewer criticized a bunch of stuff I skipped. If I payed a mechanic a bunch of money I'm sure those things would've been done however I did not and it didn't seem to matter.
I'm a do it yourself kind of person as well I like to save money and learn new things. don't Matter what others think I'm just glad to see someone get in there and do it.
Did you replace gasket behind throttle plate?
Christopher Laycook yes
yes
Why did you pull out the brass ball bearings can't you just seal over them ?
Hi Brian, they were falling out! I could not get enough epoxy over them and had to remove the ball bearing, insert wood dowels in both channels, epoxy the hole where the bearing was and then remove the wood dowels. Pain in the butt but it worked. Since then I have replaced all bodies and the newer assemblies have not leaked. I'm told they don't leak for many years. So far so good. Thanks for the view!
is this the same for johnsons
Yes
first mistake was putting gasket under the inlet needle seat !!! not required. didn't check for any blockage or damage to circuitry in carb body
Robert Bunnell thanks for the comment. Just for your reference must be an optional mistake. this motor has been running perfectly for over seven years haven’t touched the carbs since this rebuild.
If you didnt clean the carbs and it ran fine, there probably wasnt much wrong with them to begin with un less your main jet was plugged. In that case all you really had to do was clean the main jet.
where is part one. great video
Thanks
How do you know what number carburetor you have , to pick the correct gasket since theres 3 ? I have a 99 150 hp johnson oceanpro
Oscar Cervantes if I recall correctly I just lined them up with what was already there and discarded the extra gaskets.
Not a bad video but would be best to blow out all passages before reassembly and clean jet in carb bowl
Jason Nash thanks. Good advise!
This video skips many crucial steps in the "carb rebuild" as he has called it.He never cleans any of the parts, he never cleans the throttle bodies (behind the metal square plate), all he does is replace gaskets, basically.Very incomplete job here.
Thanks for the call outs. I'm not a mechanic. Wish I knew to do the stuff you mentioned. Fortunately the work is holding up. The motor runs perfectly after all these years. If you have a link for a more complete job please include it the notes.
he lost my confidence when he called the fuel bowl needle valve a "pin" ... BUT I've never pulled apart one of these motors before and just bought a used boat motor I want to go through so his teardown was very helpful
where is YOUR superior video?
NO JETS ! I need to tell everyone that I also replaced the carb bowls but the new ones DID NOT HAVE JETS INSTALLED IN THEM ! No wonder OMC went out of business
Lol
Trust me=You NEED to also sand the float bowl FLAT....They will all warp, leak, not seal on the Hi-Speed pick up pipe, and bogg down when into the throttle...We FINALLY fixed our Johnson 115 Fast Strike by sanding the float bowls FLAT...Bill.
Bill Benson thanks for the tip!
Now this would make a great video! Just bought new float bowls after seeing mine was warped. Never thought about sanding them down. Great idea
did you just install the float upside down?
Chris Skane I don't think so
If there's no gasket you don't put one in read the manual
Michael Murrietta works great. Has to this day and this was the last rebuild! Maybe there should be. Lol
Try this: forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/86351-1995-70hp-evinrude-electric-choke-not-working
Didn't remove a single high speed jet and check or clean.
Defeat the main purpose of this
repair.
Amazingly they must not have needed it. Didn’t give me a single problem for 9 years. About six months ago started losing rpm at full throttle. Turned out to be a bit of bowl plastic from screwing in the jet that curled around it.
You made a lot of mistakes. Always replace the float pin well because it often is gummed up the same as the float pin also replace the floats because the hinges are often gummed up and very hard to see. Not a professional.
BigWater59 lmao! No kidding. It’s been running great since 2012... pretty sure I got it close enough. Thanks for the comment
I'm putting 96 johnson fuel system together. Can you send me s pic of the fuel lines above the VRO?
Yes. It’ll take me a couple days. Reply w email
What about cleaning ? That’s a fail,
What do you mean?
@@bobbygfl the bowl and body didn’t get bathed and brushed, nor the jets get blown air t removed grim and grit, squeaky clean in other words
Good point!
hi, great point. i did remove the jets and shoot carb cleaner through them. that might make a great future video. jet cleaning. thanks for the comment.
9 Years later..... Got a 94' 150. Super similar. Want to pull and clean the jets. Do you know the factory set? Is it seat, then out 3 turns? Or something like that?
hi, they are on my channel. just click related videos on the main page.
the other parts are the water pump relpacement and thermo and spark plug one. go to my channel and scroll through. they are all together. thanks for watching!