Thanks for the info. My April 2022 Ioniq5 just displayed the dreaded 12V Battery Low warning. Fortunately, I had just backed the car up to our barn to unload a ton of horse bedding and when I was done I just couldn’t get the hatch to close. Hopefully I can find a mechanic locally who does house calls so I don’t have to have it towed.
Master ASE Hyundai/ KIA/LEXUS/TOYOTA Tech. SO many points to cover but the first thing I will mention Is, His videos are informative, and he does a great job in speaking. Lets Explain a little further on going to the dealer to warranty your bad 12v battery. At the dealer we have to follow Hyundia guidelines for the warranty process. This means you leaving the vehicle over night for us to follow the warranty replacement guidelines. Starting with charging the Battery overnight. It then has to be tested using only Hyundia's provided tester. If it passes, we will return your vehicle to you. If it fails, we will then replace your battery but that is provided we have one in stock. If not, your vehicle will have to remain at the dealer tell we are able to receive a new battery for your vehicle. So don't think you will come in and have your battery tested and replaced as you wait.
Well, something has to be replaced as this is new vehicles we're talking about here and not leave it a hassle to the costumer. That charging and testing 12v is a joke, if you had to charge (boost) to get it going, there's a problem. This is EV, so the rules do not apply same as the ice vehicle, for example, you can kill (discharge) ice vehicles battery if you use it with engine not running (alternator not charging), leave light on etc. EV has insane size main drive battery that can top up little 12v battery when ever needed, driving or not. So if 12v battery failed in the ioniq 5, there's a problem either with charging or battery itself (I personally think Hyundai charging logic is wrong letting those 12v discharge too low and killing them way too early in life). Either way, Hyundai should just eat up the cost and replace 12v batteries or other components responsible no questions asked until they figure out why 1-2 year old 12v batteries fail like nowhere else in the industry.
@@RCmodelVideos It is the process we have to go under to warranty the battery it is not the dealer's choice. The charging data under the AMS system shows it is charging at the correct rate Both voltage and amperage. I have simply found by people replacing the 12v Battery with a Lithium battery has resolve any 12v issues they were having.
@@RickLancaster-w2x I understand the process, and I said, "Hyundai" should replace or allow replace/repair no questions asked and stop putting it on the customers to get a "better" battery that can take abuse of the ioniq 5 charging logic. I'm saying this because there're so many people that have to fight this with the Hyundai or dealers. That is wrong regardless what excuse Hyundai has.
@@RickLancaster-w2x I had it fail on my EV6 twice., also after the first year the battery replacement is prorated plus the need to go to a dealer and fuss around. So I just bought a glass mat 12. Volt which weights twice as much as the OEM Battery from a local auto shop which has a full replacement warranty for 5 years. As most folks I have a lithium booster battery kit just in case. 😊
2024 model ioniq 5 single motor bought in Luxembourg October 2023. Dead 12v battery at the end of April. Went to dealer on a Monday in person. First appointment Thursday even with a dead car. Kept it until Tuesday. Blamed it on a faulty light bulb and replaced the battery. Still waiting now 3 weeks later for the replacement light bulb. Lesson 1 was the lithium jump start battery I bought when I got the car. I knew I might have 12v problems from new. So I was ready. With this I managed to start the car. Lesson 2 was using camping mode to keep the traction battery active and the car alive. Turn off climate and auto lights, roll driver window down, get out with the key, lock the door from the door button and then hit window up and get your arm out quickly. I survived like this for the days until I could take it to the garage. Open again with the app or the physical key
You’re the man, Ioniq guy. The exact same thing happened to my 2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD two days ago. Car is 2 years and 3 weeks since I bought it with about 12,000 miles. What a coincidence! By the way I had all the software recalls performed regarding the ICCU and they didn’t need to replace any fuses.
I've had my 2022 Ioniq 5 for a little over 2 years.I've been careful to make sure all recalls are addressed as quickly as possible. EV's being a fairly new technology, I think they take a bit more diligence to keep them in tip top shape. When people first started reporting issues with the 12V batteries a couple of years ago, I was careful to monitor my car and make sure the 12V was getting charged (the amber light on the dash). So far, I've had really good luck with my car and I love it. It has found it's forever home.
The pain continues with this car! Had the iccu fixed last year. Then same error came up again 2 months ago and that was related to the water pump. NOW this week the AC has gone and doing some research it appears this is yet another common issue. Unreal.
My leased 2024 I-5 LTD battery died after 10 month/9K miles. Car was jumped and driven to dealer, which provided me a loaner car. They had it for 9 days before it got into their work schedule. The battery was replaced, no other defects were found. Another topic: You long ago suggested that the new factory wipers should be replaced with Bosch wipers. I finally did it this week. What an amazing improvement!
Lol....had our 12v battery die last night, just drove 700 km from Northern Ontario on the way home and stopped at an Electrify Canada and the battery voltage plummeted to 7.6v and the car started screaming at me! 😅 But this charging stop was in a Canadian Tire parking lot, took me 5 minutes to walk over to the store, buy a 12vdc AGM battery and in another 5 minutes had the new battery swapped in. Only bad side was it was -12C out and windy and did the swap with a pair of water pump pliers!!!! Our car has 75,000km on it and we haul tons of sailing gear in our boat to and from our boat wherever we happen to have it stored! No big deal, easy easy change out and move on! Cheers Mike and Ally 🇨🇦 2022 Ioniq5 AWD Ultimate trim
Corbin- I watch your video about 2 weeks ago. I have a 9/2022 Ioniq 5….after driving from Philadelphia to Maine my battery died! 21 months, I’m glad I watched your video to really know what was happening and what to do about it. Thank you
Just had our 12 volt die after almost exactly 24 months. Got it to charge up and will hopefully be able to drive it to the dealership. Thank you Ioniq Guy! Your videos have been very helpful.
AGM is a good option. Just be sure whatever you get is intended for Deep Cycle use and not SLI (starting, lights, instruments) use. My hybrid had a 12V battery that never saw a starting load, but was an SLI battery. I was replacing it every 3 years due to failuer. There was not a compatible deep cycle battery available.
Hi. Thank you for the information. The same problem with 12v batteries on Kona Ev and Kia niro. It’s because of charging with 13,2v by standard car system. It is not enough voltage for charging especially when it’s to cold. To save the life of 12v battery I disconnect it and recharge by charger using 14,5-14,8v at least once a month 😊
Thanks for sharing your experience! I had my battery die on 23 I5 twice. Just spent 30 days at the dealer going back and forth. Finally, they were able to get the 12V battery replaced inder warranty (I had to argue with Hyundai on that for a week!) they also found that the battery sensor was broken. So fingers crossed. Anyway, a few points.. You should see your car charging the 12v pretty frequently. You can tell by the little yellow light on the dash. If you dont see this light coming on, consider that your warning that it's gonna die soon. One point ill disagree with you on is that it's "ok" to replace the 12v battery every few years. With proper maintenance a lead acid battery can last 10 years. In all my cars I've owned or my parents owned we have never replaced the 12v battery and they are all over 10yrs old. So Hyundai needs to get their act together on this one
I was having 12v battery issues. Went to dealer for recent recall and assess battery, they did the update and said battery was fine but the 12v still continued to die. Then the car stopped charging. The next service visit, they changed battery and did some testing. They tried changing charge port, didnt fix, they ended up replacing the iccu and now its working fine.
What kind of issues were you having with charging? I'm having an issue where it won't charge according to the schedule but if I disable or override the schedule it charges fine. Still have our original 12V but have not had the most recent ICCU update. Had car since Feb 22.
You had better luck than my 2020 Kia Soul EV, just past 1 year full battery replacement warranty my 12 volt died, and I wasted several trips into town (via ferry at my expense) all those times Kia claimed the battery was fine so I just replaced it with AGM and never looked back.
I've just been changed this ordinary 12 Volt battery for an 12 volt / 100 amps iron - phosphate one,( LiFePO4) no troubles anymore and also in winter ❄️ have always 13.3 volts constantly
Happened to us at almost 2 years in too. And the Hyundai dealer tried to blame us and gave us the complete run around. In spite of the fact it’s happening to Ioniq owners EVERYWHERE.
Very good report...Too bad yours didn't fail sooner....lol...So we could have gotten the details of the problem and the fix sooner. I hesitated with the lithium too. I was a bit worried about the cold weather functionality and the huge cost compared to the AGM, which is known to take extreme heavy use.
As for people inquiring about the Ioniq 6 Yes we are replacing the 12v battery's on a regular basis for the same condition even if the ICCU update was completed Prior.
The owners manual states that owners should only be installing Hyundais OEM battery so I’m a little confused why you’re recommending anything but. Wouldn’t switching to a lithium be grounds for denying a warranty claim?
@@TheIoniqGuy No it would not. It is no different than replacing your battery in an ICE vehicle. As for the OEM battery you have to understand you will continue to be in the same 12v Battery failure issue
Hyundai as any manufacture cannot enforce you using any OEM parts for your vehicle. Wiper blades, Brake pads, washer fluid, brake fluid 12v battery, ect.
We have 2017 and 2018 Chevy Bolts. I put a cheap plug-in voltmeter in each and watch it frequently. The BMS maintains the charge at 12.6 volts in each. I replaced both batteries at the four year mark. I also use a cheap desulphater once a month on each. Obviously, the 12 v system is important to me, as most of the internal operating electric components are operated by this system. Chevy didn't "cheap out" and use lead acid batteries, but AGM types. Still, they are the most vulnerable system in your car ! And I consider them as short lived, and disposable items. Basically, 19th century in a 21st century car...
When the 12V on my 2022 first 'died' last fall I couldn't get it going with a jump start pack at all it just displayed an error. Measured the voltage with a multimeter and it was showing 3-4V when connected to the car's terminals but 7.xV when disconnected. Put it on a trickle charger for a few hours to get it back up to 12-13V. I installed a Bluetooth battery monitor at that time and realized that something was blocking the car's systems from topping the 12V off as it is supposed to. I discovered that it was related to my recent enrollment in my local utility's demand management program which connected to the car through Bluelink. As soon as I removed my car from this program it went back to topping up the 12V every ~24 hours (according to logs from the battery monitor which stores 30 days) regardless of whether it was plugged in or not, or driven. It has not given me any issues since, knock on wood. Now close to 50,000km on the car. I'm debating replacing it proactively this fall anyway which would be close to 3 years of ownership but still haven't decided if AGM is worth the extra cost or just get a new standard lead acid more often.
My daughter’s 2019 Kia Niro EV is coming up to 5 years old on September 21, 2024. After 64,000 kms in Canada she is still using her original 12v battery and has never had a 12v battery issue.
If you live in a cold climate, I'd also advise go AGM instead of lithium. There's some really nice lithium 12v drop in replacements out there, but they all require their own BMS and warming circuitry to keep up to temperature. If you're in a cold place like I am (Colorado), you may find you can't use the car in the cold only if the 12v is anemic in the cold. I'm planning on replacing my battery with an Optima Yellowtop when the time comes
I purchased my 22 Ioniq 5 12/31/21 and have had zero problems with my 12 volt battery. I’m a former auto tech and have lots of tools and equipment at home. After watching your video I went into my garage and tested my battery. It 0:02 specs out exactly as manufactured. 550 CCA at 12.4 volts. With that said, I only have 8,000 miles on it. I think I saw you have around 22,000 miles on your 5. So maybe it’s not age, maybe it’s the length of time the vehicle is in the on position. I drive only short distances daily. 15 to 20 minutes once or twice daily. Possibly when in the on position the 12 volt battery does not get charged at all or properly. It’s being discharged then when it’s back in the off position it charges. As you stated, basically, it’s death to a lead acid battery being discharged then recharged. Food for thought anyway. With your new battery check the voltage immediately after you have driven it after a longer drive.
My 2023 Ioniq 6 just experienced the first dead 12v battery. It has been at the Hyundai Dealership so far about 1 week (and yes the 12v was jumped and also died on their parking lot while it was sitting there for 2 days). They have been “so-called” trying to do diagnostics test on it and communicating to “Hyundai Tech-line”. They have tested and stated the 12v seems to be fine, whatever else test they did seems fine. So now they are saying it must be a “parasitic draw” somewhere draining the 12v battery. I have no apps connected to my Ioniq 6 other than Bluelink. No bluetooth electricity company, no 3rd party self-installed apps. Nothing. My Ioniq 6 is 1 yr and 3 months old now. All recalls have been performed up-to-date. All updates such as ICCU has been performed for as long as I've been driving this car. Here’s a recap before I brought this in on “Saturday July 27”. On that week “Wednesday July 24”, I went into the dealership with NO problems other than needing to get my “key fob” reprogrammed to my ioniq 6 because it was a new FOB. When they reprogrammed it, they decided to do a “new update” that was available on my car relating to “charging”. Keep in mind, I did not know they did an update on that same day (Wednesday). Now fast forward to Thursday/Friday, I walk out to my car at night. DEAD 12v batttery! So fast forward about 1 week (todays current state), they are trying to still diagnose it and they said they don’t see anything wrong with the 12v battery, they dont see any other things “so-far”. So now, they say it’s a “Parasitic draw” somewhere that they are trying to figure out. It’s frustrating because they are barely working on diagnosing the car (they claim they are too busy and they don't have enough EV techs). They are barely talking to “hyundai tech-line”. I can only think that the “reprogramming of the key fob” could be the possible culprit because when re-programming, the key has to talk to all the computer modules in the car (50+ of them I was told). OR it could be the “charging update” that they installed on my Ioniq 6. Maybe it was a BAD update that was installed on my car and possibly on other people’s cars as they bring it in. What’s strange is, they seem to not be able to “re-install” an older version update to even test the theory out! or test if the car performs proper (before i brought it into the dealership on July 24th). I’m lost for words right now and HYUNDAI is constantly ducking and dodging my phone calls for “status updates”. @The Ioniq Guy If you know of so possible issues that might sound like what I could be dealing with, please provide me with some suggestions. OR ANYONE. Hope this is interesting to someone! I've been trying to reach out to Hyundai Corporate, NO LUCK because they don't let customers interact with corporate. I've reached out to customer service, this is too high level techy for them to comprehend. I've reached out to Hyundai Case Managers, they are just a "high level" fancy customer service team. I need Hyundai CORPORATE because there are so many issues with this dealerships lack of "communication", experience level, and service level. They duck and dodge all phone calls and calling ANYONE back for status updates.
Disclaimer: My experience may not apply to anyone else's situation. Based on early reports in the Chevy Bolt Forum, in 2017 I purchased a battery minder ($21.47) and ran it overnight once a month (the last day of each month was an easy reminder). The indicator (functioning) light was always blinking on hook up and solid the next am. I used my original 12V battery for over 6 years (when I sold the Bolt) without any glitch in battery performance. I now do the same to my Ioniq 5 and so far, at 15 months, it is still doing well. Whether this has anything to do with "removing dendrites which lead to internal short circuits" is left to the opinion of someone more knowledgeable than I. IMHO, spending $21.47 once rather than $150 every 2 years has been the better choice.
I just went ahead and put Ohmmu batteries in both my eGMP cars when I got them to just not ever have to worry about this. They're Lithium Ion , and have their own BMS that is tuned for the eGMP platform specifically -- and can be updated OTA. They have an app that lets you monitor the battery, and these things have so much capacity I hardly ever see (or need!) the orange light of ICCU 12v charging. Expensive? Yes, but just one incident of my wife and kiddos being stranded somewhere because the cheap Hyundai 12v battery failed, and it wouldn't seem that expensive at all.
BTW I've not seen one eGMP complaint or failure due to an Ohmmu on any forum or reddit (just early Tesla failures), I think the tear-down criticism of them is probably pretty overblown. I also don't live in an area of the country that gets that cold to need battery heating in my 12v battery....
I never thought I would say this but you're completely wrong in saying "we need to accept this" I do not think customers need to accept a lower quality experience than what they have become accustomed to...the truth is 1) Lower quality battery used on the I5 2) You stopped using your I5 as your daily driver and has been sitting there that caused the 12 Volt to deplete so much that YOUR ICCU did not maintain an adequate charge. This is unacceptable, EV's need to be designed to be SUPERIOR to ICE vehicles if we expect wide adoption of this technology and get ride of toxic gas ICE vehicles. This is why I returned my IONIQ 5 because I don't need to worry that my car is going to get bricked because the 12 volt dies or the ICCU is not maintaining the 12 volt properly.
I completely agree with you that it’s unacceptable that they put in a sub par battery and maybe the AGM will last longer, but what else is somebody going to do besides accept this is the reality of the situation and just replace it? Is the trouble of getting a car towed and hashing it out with a dealership to replace it worth $140? For me, absolutely not. Maybe for someone else it is. I got 2.5 years out of it. I knew it was coming and I can live with that. I didn’t know you got rid of yours? What are you driving now?
In my opinion Both Kia and Hyundai tend to release the vehicles and allow the customers to complete the Testing in a variety of conditions then release soft wear updates to address different issues. This goes for all their vehicles. As for my 2022 Rav 4 Hybrid I have not had a single recall or a single software update that has had to be completed. That being said I think the Kia Hyundai brand has a lot to offer with their 100.000 Mile Warranty and their entry level price.
It is interesting that this happened even though you had left your main battery at 82% which you would expect would keep the 12v active regardless of not being driven. One thing I’ve tried is to not use apps like Ohme, Bluelink, TRONITY etc unless I’m actually using or planning to use the car - basically minimising the number of times the car gets ‘pinged’ causing the car to wake up and draw power. From the battery monitor data I can see there are days where there are zero ‘wake up’ blips and just a top up charge.
Hyundai lowered the limit of how many times external apps can use its API to ping the car last year so it shouldn’t be much of an issue anymore but yeah, I don’t really recommend people use those apps
Interesting video. My '23 I5 limited gave me a "dead" battery after about 8 months. Dealer messed with it for 30 days, fortunately they gave me an I5 as a loaner. They decided it was software pinning the car too much and had me delete Bluelink and reinstall with new password. They told me there was no damage to 12v, even though it was down to 6.5 to 7 volts when it had died on me. They told me the same thing to have it towed. I instead put it on a external charger and brought it up to full charge and watched it for a day or two and then drove it to dealer. It has been fine for six months and is holding a charge just fine, so you never know. As far as batteries dying in 3-5 years on ICE cars, I guess it depends. My wife's battery on an Elantra died after 6 years, but my Sonata Hybrid was 8.5 years old when I got rid of it with the original 12v. I checked the battery you got on Amazon and it says if I order it today sunday 5/19, I will have it on 5/22 so perhaps they have improved the shipping. One suggestion based on your experience loosing the history data from the computer, I bet if you kept your jump pack connected to the terminals when you changed the battery you would retain that data - just an idea.
I don't understand why Hyundai/Kia can't figure this out! My 2016 BMW i3 BEVs 12 volt battery lasted for almost 7 years. just replaced it 1 year ago. the car also have remote GPS locating and preconditioning via app and most other features which the Ioniq 5 has.
It's commendable that at leat the car tells you what the problem is! I've had to replace the 12V batteries in both of my previous EVs, my LEAF and my Model 3, and they do seem to give up the ghost sooner than in a gas car. I assume that this will prove a real problem -for ANY EVs- in the future, because all the telematics and software routines that depend upon the 12V battery are much more intensive and constant. I mean… every time I approach the locked car, and it extends the door handles, it's using the 12V battery! Every time! I predict that, with time, automakers will transition to better solutions. 24V? 48V? Li-ions? Gel? I'm not that worried about it. I already have a jump starter on board for when and if the 12V dies. Plus battery chargers and tenders in my garage. It's Murphy's law, after all.
We have been lucky on ours or we just happened to get a good battery. 52k miles on it now and still no 12V battery problems, think it said 98% SOH on a battery tester.
I bought an Ioniq 5 (‘23) in Sept of 2023. My 12v just died yesterday (July 23rd). It didn’t last a year. I do already have 32000 miles on my car but some people said that shouldn’t matter.
found this video. FYI: 2025 Ioniq 5n with just 900 miles and the 12v battery has died a few times. Because of weather here in the PNW I often let it sit for like 3 days and that's when it seems to die. After the 3rd time the 12v died it appeared to be the end of it. I have since put in an AGM Interstate and a battery monitor. If you want I will update in a few days/weeks.
My Ioniq 5 is 01/2022. I had to call Hyundai assistance twice because the car sat dead in the garage due to a low 12V Battery. Both times my Ioniq sat dead, connected to my charger at home. The second time the battery had 3.1 Volt. Later I was told by Hyundai Belgium, to disconnect my home charger asap after charging the car and not let it sit connected. This will continue communications between the car and the charger and these might drain the 12V battery. I have been carefully disconnecting the car from my home charger since, and so far (40 days later) had no further problems. (both times the original battery was jump started, still using the original battery today)
0:30 Hi, I don’t drive an Ionic, I have a 2022 Hyundai Tucson hybrid that I bought new. I arrived at your channel after searching “Hyundai 12v battery failure” after previously searching “2022 Hyundai Tucson hybrid dead”. I found a couple of videos that allowed me to unlock the car and then start it, but nothing as comprehensive as you offer on your channel. But, the question is, will you extend a hand to Hyundai hybrid owners and include our models on your surveys? If Hyundai does take such feedback into consideration, they should know that the list of unhappy owners with nearly identical issues is growing over this 12v battery row!
My battery failed 6 weeks ago since then it has been off the road in the dealership waiting for a replacement battery under warranty i got the car back a few days ago and i also noticed that all my reading had changed like yours according to it i have averaged 4.5 kWh over 15000 miles which is totally wrong apparently the reason it took so long to get a replacement battery is there is a shortage of them in the UK. If i had known that i could of bought one my self I don’t think i would of bothered to get one under warranty and put up with all the hassle in the last 6 weeks and I to would advise other owners to go for that option instead of putting up with a hired car that only does 30mpg I could of easily bought one with the extra cost of the fuel I had to pay for out of my own pocket.
Our Ioniq 5 and its 12V battery are about the same age as yours. I too have been looking into an AGM replacement even though we have had no issues. Perhaps this will prompt me into being more proactive and getting it done. BTW isn’t pulling the high voltage cutoff switch recommended before disconnecting the old 12V battery?
yes get a "quality" AGM, and not the "Billionaire Cheapskates" AGM. you do this for the same reason you DON'T put 12V "Starter Batteries" in a Golf Cart. yes technically they'll work, but they'll also fail prematurely simply because they're NOT designed for the use case (hint: that's why they make specific Marine/Deep Cycle batteries)... yeah, i've got a half dozen pictures on my phone of FULL PALLETS (3 layers high) of dead 12V Group 31 batteries headed off to the recyclers for the 2 reasons being, #1- they got used in the WRONG APPLICATION, and #2 - they got spec'd FOR the application simply because THEY WERE CHEAP.
The OEM 12V battery in my GV70 EV is AGM. With the following markings: AGM60R-DIN(12V) 60Ah (20HR) 37110-DS620 RC 100min ССА 640А Oh, it died after 1.5 years.
Just had my battery die in my ‘23 SEL AWD (32,000 mi), bought in April of ‘23, unlocked the car and all lights turned on, but didn’t turn off. I tried to start it and it immediately started sounding that ‘12v Battery Low’ warning. Currently waiting on Hyundai service lol. I guess I’ll see how we’ll go.
im dreading this happening to our ioniq now :(. But a portable jump starter doesnt charge up a battery - gives it a boost to start a car. Did you try 12v trickle or smart charger?
On a 2022 EV6, as soon as I became aware of the ICCU/12V battery issues I replaced the 12V OEM battery with a highly-rated AGM. This within the first 6 months after purchase of the car. We have had no ICCU or 12V battery issues. The ICCU was inspected per the recall last week, and no issue was found Can't say that replacing the 12V battery prevented any problems, but I considered it to be relatively cheap insurance. Why have a crap battery in an expensive EV?
The issues stem from the fact that in EV'S the lead acid battery doesn't get that regular start up jolt of a heavy draw of power. LA batteries will naturally build up sulphate and that jolt helps to shake it loose. What's needed is for a 6 monthly regeneration of the battery to remove the sulphate electrically. I'm due to do mine but I'm worried about disconnecting the battery for 12 hours for the process to complete, because I don't think that it should be done with the battery still connected. Any ideas?
My ioniq 5 12V battery died 12 months in at 8800 miles 😢 it got towed to the dealership. They replaced the 12V battery but it didn’t work. Then they replaced the motor and it didn’t work. Now they’re waiting for a third part that’s on back order. It’s been 2 months 🙃
From my understanding charging AGM battery requires a different voltage than standard lead acid battery. “AGM batteries generally charge at 14.6-14.8V, not the 13.6-14.4 of standard lead acid. Charging at 14.4v will undercharge the AGM battery”
Ugh I think you’re right. Everything I read said AGM could just be dropped in but it looks like the car only outputs about 13.5V which like you said will lead to an under charged battery. But who knows maybe because AGM can handle deeper discharges and it has a wider operational range vs standard lead acid, it’ll be fine. I’m not going to drive the car this week so I’ll see what happens over the next 5 days
Regarding your Update on voltage on AGM vs standard Lead Acid. I believe the Car charges the 12V battery with 14,7-14,8 V so I Think That voltage is sufficient for an AGM battery.
Is the key anywhere close to the car while it's been sitting? If the car senses the key nearby it won't go to deep sleep mode. There are a number of reports of people leaving their EV6 for months and coming back to it working just fine.
Kona EV is now 3 years old, my Ioniq 5 is 2.5years old. Original 12v batteries. Think I may just replace them now, rather than have it happen at the most inconvenient time. 😅. Thanks for the videos.
I’d have no issue replacing it on a scheduled timeframe, what I don’t want is to be stranded. Right now some peoples die in 6 months to never so it’s a crap shoot on when and if it will die. Hyundai needs to fix or mitigate this problem.
I really wish manufacturers would stop placing parasitic drains on their batteries. Honda has this problem with Odyssey and Pilot, I got rid of them because I was flat out sick of getting stranded and replacing batteries with no possible fix for the issue.
I'm in identical situation - who's your dealer? Phil Gilbert at Lidcombe says they need the car for a few days to run diagnostics, want to charge $240 for that exercise, but if battery is faulty they will replace it under warranty. We all know the fault is with the 12V charging algorithm so it may be time to threaten a class action to stop the mass consumer fraud!!
@@argystar Tynan Hyundai Sutherland is my dealer. I got NRMA to give be a jump start. They said the battery was fine. Went for a drive and topped it up over night with a slow charger. Not had a problem since. Asked to check the 12v battery on the recent service. Surprise Surprise no issues with it. Again not failed since.
@@wilkothewiz Thanks - my experience was less fortunate because as soon as the jumper source was removed the 12V low battery warning was displayed and then everything died within 10 seconds. There was no opportunity to drive anywhere or for the main battery (at 90%) to charge the 12V battery :(
i have got my ioniq 5 dealer replaced iccu. today when i parked it home for 1hour and came back turned car on it had all sorts of errors check foward safety systems, regenerative braking wouldnt work, blind spot safety systems many errors. i disconnected 12v battery for 15 minutes and when i reconnected it back i didnt had errors. later after i went for a drive for a drink for 1h. when i finished drink i turned car on and again all those error messages came back. is this issue with 12v battery failing or ? did you had simmilar experience ?
My 12V died one day after the sw update 9B5. The service advisor at Hyundai explained to me that the 12V battery charges the main EV battery! I told him that doesn’t make any sense that the main battery would draw current from the 12V, but he explained that is how Hyundai does it. I am confused and asked why the orange light comes on (although I haven’t seen it after these Iccu and charging sw updates) because I thought it was the 12v battery getting charged up from the main battery. Again he told me that it was not they way Hyundai works. I think he was right that something is draining current from the 12v battery, and they will troubleshoot it by running diagnostics. Has anyone been able to locate sources of current draw, while the vehicle is turned off?
Here is an update to my 12 V battery problem. It may confirm what others already know. I took my car in after trickle charging it for four hours to approximately 14 V although it was not 100% charged. I got to the dealer and they were unable to start the car as the 12 V battery was completely dead at 0% according to their meter. They kept it overnight. Put a new battery in and check to see if it was draining any current. They couldn’t find anything. So I don’t know if it’s solely the battery or if all the software updates are not allowing the 12 V battery to be recharged. I kind of think I haven’t seen the orange dash Light come on for weeks and makes me suspicious that the 12 V battery just isn’t being recharged anymore?!
Sucks!I bought Ioniq 5 for just 2 years and 4 months, mine dead when we were out of state on 11/4, the battery was changed, the whole thing messed up, it did not work. I left my car in Hyundai dealer in NH, God knows if it will be fixed. my question is if manufacture will reimburse all my loss? please advice
One thing I didn’t know would happen. My Ioniq 6 will just turn on the a/c when no 1 is in it to cool down the battery. So yeah…our battery will be used up more frequently
Hmm, just before I got rid of my Prius 3 the battery died. It had 7.5 years on it's back. 2-2.5 years for those batteries in EVs seems very short (from an ICE-guy perspective) and wasteful. Not to mention the additional cost of purchasing a battery every other year. For me, buying a car is mainly a cost perspective. I have several must-haves and then I look which car fits that at what cost. EVs already have a hard time in this comparison, but having to buy batteries 3-times that often might be a complete showstopper for them in my situation.
Per your update comment, I disagree! I've actually monitored the I5 during charge phase and it delivers 14.4~14.7 volts during its charge phase which is well within the acceptable range for an AGM...
Boss. If I go to my closest dealer (almost 2hrs driving one way) in case my 12V battery died. Will my dealer pay for the tow truck? Assuming it is under warranty of course. Or should I just go after 2 years of purchase the ioniq5, I just go and tell them if they could please replace it? Will they replace it just because we say it to prevent the hussle for the ones that lives way far from the dealership?
I believe if they determine it’s under warranty, you can file a claim to get reimbursed for the tow but if you call Hyundai roadside assistance I think they only offer a 100% complimentary toe a few miles. Keep a 12V battery booster in you car at all times so that if you do experience this you can at least get the car started again and on your way. Either way, I’d say preemptively replace it at a couple years of age
@@TheIoniqGuy We have a new Niro, bought in February. A friend has as owned a Niro for about a year. I'll let you know if the has a similar battery issue.
Here is some 'field news' of the Niro, from an owner. He owns a 2019 Niro BEV[01st yr for the car]. It came with the original battery. I got the car 16months ago. I have replaced the battery at about 08 months into the ownership. Thankfully, the battery is easy to get to and replace [not buried like a Tesla}. No warning, just POOF no start. I could not find an AGM thru the dealer, who I had fix the battery, so its still LA. The tech admitted that Kia et al cheaped out with the stock battery to save money [or increase profits?}. My guessed recommendation? replace the stock battery with an AGM NOW before it fails 'in the rain, in a combat zone of a major city, on a long weekend'.
Hello. Is this an issue that specifically impacts the Ioniq 5 or all EVs? I'm coming from gas car and am considering purchasing the refreshed Ioniq 5 later this year, but am now worried of all the issues related to this car. Should this issue and other common issues for this car deter me from making the jump?
this is more specific to 2022 and 2023 Ioniq 5s -- hopefully the issue has been resolved with 2024 and/or 2025 model year. other EVs have had troubles here and there with the 12v but as far as i'm aware nothing like this. if you're looking at a newer 2024 or 2025 it's probably not a big concern -- just keep a 12v jumper pack in the frunk (see ioniq guy's video on using one) but you'd probably be wise to have a 12v jumper pack regardless.
@@MAGApepe I have no idea, but he mentioned that the car is not made to charge a lithium based battery, lithium has different resistance, and not as good as smoothing out noise on the 12V bus.
That brand of battery is probably made side by side with other brands you'd mentioned. I would invest in a very good intelligent "trickle charger" and add a "dongle" so you can maintain the new battery - I would think that the 12v charging software is pretty much garbage. I'm aware that there's been discussion around not using battery maintainers on some of the forums but unless the car manufacturer is willing to revise the software that may be your only choice....
My Ioniq5 12v battery was dead the other day. I remived the 12v battery and charged it. The onboard charger hasn’t been working. Battery dead again. Hopefully the onboard 12v charger isn’t attached to the High Voltage Battery!
By all means, all Hyundai EV owners should get the recall software update done. However, don’t expect it to do anything special for your 12 V battery issues. I have a feeling the recall efforts were mostly service theater.
Few different tools for VWs, I used carista but odbEleven is popular. I have not been able find the equivalent for Hyundai. I wonder if the dealership can program it?
It's ridiculous that they designed the car using an AGM battery and then they cheaped out. It's also ridiculous that they can't get the software integration between the main battery and 12v to maintain the 12v for longer.
tesla update to a 16v lithium ion battery that's is 1/10 size of a lead acid battery. And it design to last life time. Also, the price of making this battery is actually cheaper than lead acid battery. Whether you like Elon or not, you have to know the right information about tesla
This issue continues to plague the Ioniq 5. Clearly, to the same extent that one needs to check the tire pressure of one’s car on a regular basis, the same applies to the 12 V battery on an EV. Not on ICE car, though. You measure the CCA (or CA) of the battery when you get your EV, and compare it to its rating displayed on the battery itself. You might even get a so-so/damaged battery with the new car… As time passes, you’ll be able to see, by this regular battery health check, that it’s aging. You can replace it before it unexpectedly fails on you… It’s the same type of health check that you can do on your home’s alarm system if you don’t want it to fail on you unexpectedly. One last conclusion: If you going to leave your EV parked for two weeks, it might make sense to put a battery maintainer on the battery…
Corbin, I bit the bullet and bought a brand new 2024 Ioniq 6 about three weeks ago. I ate my own dog food and tested the 12-volt battery about two weeks ago. Interestingly, I got a voltage reading of 12.32 volts, and my battery load tester told me to recharge the battery!!! I thought that was odd since I use the car every day since I bought it. The 12-volt battery has a rating of 550 CCA. It tested at 617 CCA. This is good. I retested the battery yesterday and I got a reading of 12.5 volts. I come to the conclusion that Hyundai is using a starting battery as a “heavy-duty” accessory battery whereas an AGM battery is better suited for such task. So, yes, when the time comes, I’ll also buy an AGM battery as a replacement to the OEM’s 12-volt battery for my Ioniq 6. Tks for the video.
Thanks for the info. My April 2022 Ioniq5 just displayed the dreaded 12V Battery Low warning. Fortunately, I had just backed the car up to our barn to unload a ton of horse bedding and when I was done I just couldn’t get the hatch to close. Hopefully I can find a mechanic locally who does house calls so I don’t have to have it towed.
Master ASE Hyundai/ KIA/LEXUS/TOYOTA Tech. SO many points to cover but the first thing I will mention Is, His videos are informative, and he does a great job in speaking. Lets Explain a little further on going to the dealer to warranty your bad 12v battery. At the dealer we have to follow Hyundia guidelines for the warranty process. This means you leaving the vehicle over night for us to follow the warranty replacement guidelines. Starting with charging the Battery overnight. It then has to be tested using only Hyundia's provided tester. If it passes, we will return your vehicle to you. If it fails, we will then replace your battery but that is provided we have one in stock. If not, your vehicle will have to remain at the dealer tell we are able to receive a new battery for your vehicle. So don't think you will come in and have your battery tested and replaced as you wait.
Well, something has to be replaced as this is new vehicles we're talking about here and not leave it a hassle to the costumer. That charging and testing 12v is a joke, if you had to charge (boost) to get it going, there's a problem. This is EV, so the rules do not apply same as the ice vehicle, for example, you can kill (discharge) ice vehicles battery if you use it with engine not running (alternator not charging), leave light on etc. EV has insane size main drive battery that can top up little 12v battery when ever needed, driving or not. So if 12v battery failed in the ioniq 5, there's a problem either with charging or battery itself (I personally think Hyundai charging logic is wrong letting those 12v discharge too low and killing them way too early in life). Either way, Hyundai should just eat up the cost and replace 12v batteries or other components responsible no questions asked until they figure out why 1-2 year old 12v batteries fail like nowhere else in the industry.
@@RCmodelVideos It is the process we have to go under to warranty the battery it is not the dealer's choice. The charging data under the AMS system shows it is charging at the correct rate Both voltage and amperage. I have simply found by people replacing the 12v Battery with a Lithium battery has resolve any 12v issues they were having.
@@RickLancaster-w2x I understand the process, and I said, "Hyundai" should replace or allow replace/repair no questions asked and stop putting it on the customers to get a "better" battery that can take abuse of the ioniq 5 charging logic. I'm saying this because there're so many people that have to fight this with the Hyundai or dealers. That is wrong regardless what excuse Hyundai has.
@@RCmodelVideos I agree with you.
@@RickLancaster-w2x I had it fail on my EV6 twice., also after the first year the battery replacement is prorated plus the need to go to a dealer and fuss around. So I just bought a glass mat 12. Volt which weights twice as much as the OEM Battery from a local auto shop which has a full replacement warranty for 5 years. As most folks I have a lithium booster battery kit just in case. 😊
2024 model ioniq 5 single motor bought in Luxembourg October 2023. Dead 12v battery at the end of April. Went to dealer on a Monday in person. First appointment Thursday even with a dead car. Kept it until Tuesday. Blamed it on a faulty light bulb and replaced the battery. Still waiting now 3 weeks later for the replacement light bulb.
Lesson 1 was the lithium jump start battery I bought when I got the car. I knew I might have 12v problems from new. So I was ready. With this I managed to start the car.
Lesson 2 was using camping mode to keep the traction battery active and the car alive. Turn off climate and auto lights, roll driver window down, get out with the key, lock the door from the door button and then hit window up and get your arm out quickly. I survived like this for the days until I could take it to the garage. Open again with the app or the physical key
Thanks for the deep dive into your situation and the explanation about AGM vs lithium. Appreciate your work!
You’re the man, Ioniq guy. The exact same thing happened to my 2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD two days ago. Car is 2 years and 3 weeks since I bought it with about 12,000 miles. What a coincidence! By the way I had all the software recalls performed regarding the ICCU and they didn’t need to replace any fuses.
Did they replace the battery for free?
I've had my 2022 Ioniq 5 for a little over 2 years.I've been careful to make sure all recalls are addressed as quickly as possible. EV's being a fairly new technology, I think they take a bit more diligence to keep them in tip top shape. When people first started reporting issues with the 12V batteries a couple of years ago, I was careful to monitor my car and make sure the 12V was getting charged (the amber light on the dash). So far, I've had really good luck with my car and I love it. It has found it's forever home.
The pain continues with this car! Had the iccu fixed last year. Then same error came up again 2 months ago and that was related to the water pump. NOW this week the AC has gone and doing some research it appears this is yet another common issue. Unreal.
My leased 2024 I-5 LTD battery died after 10 month/9K miles. Car was jumped and driven to dealer, which provided me a loaner car. They had it for 9 days before it got into their work schedule. The battery was replaced, no other defects were found.
Another topic: You long ago suggested that the new factory wipers should be replaced with Bosch wipers. I finally did it this week. What an amazing improvement!
Lol....had our 12v battery die last night, just drove 700 km from Northern Ontario on the way home and stopped at an Electrify Canada and the battery voltage plummeted to 7.6v and the car started screaming at me! 😅
But this charging stop was in a Canadian Tire parking lot, took me 5 minutes to walk over to the store, buy a 12vdc AGM battery and in another 5 minutes had the new battery swapped in. Only bad side was it was -12C out and windy and did the swap with a pair of water pump pliers!!!! Our car has 75,000km on it and we haul tons of sailing gear in our boat to and from our boat wherever we happen to have it stored!
No big deal, easy easy change out and move on!
Cheers
Mike and Ally 🇨🇦
2022 Ioniq5 AWD Ultimate trim
Corbin- I watch your video about 2 weeks ago. I have a 9/2022 Ioniq 5….after driving from Philadelphia to Maine my battery died! 21 months, I’m glad I watched your video to really know what was happening and what to do about it. Thank you
Just had our 12 volt die after almost exactly 24 months. Got it to charge up and will hopefully be able to drive it to the dealership. Thank you Ioniq Guy! Your videos have been very helpful.
Thanks!
AGM is a good option. Just be sure whatever you get is intended for Deep Cycle use and not SLI (starting, lights, instruments) use. My hybrid had a 12V battery that never saw a starting load, but was an SLI battery. I was replacing it every 3 years due to failuer. There was not a compatible deep cycle battery available.
Thanks for making this video you have explained this 12volt issue much better to understand and it happens on my e niro. Thanks...
Hi. Thank you for the information. The same problem with 12v batteries on Kona Ev and Kia niro. It’s because of charging with 13,2v by standard car system. It is not enough voltage for charging especially when it’s to cold. To save the life of 12v battery I disconnect it and recharge by charger using 14,5-14,8v at least once a month 😊
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I had my battery die on 23 I5 twice. Just spent 30 days at the dealer going back and forth. Finally, they were able to get the 12V battery replaced inder warranty (I had to argue with Hyundai on that for a week!) they also found that the battery sensor was broken. So fingers crossed.
Anyway, a few points.. You should see your car charging the 12v pretty frequently. You can tell by the little yellow light on the dash. If you dont see this light coming on, consider that your warning that it's gonna die soon.
One point ill disagree with you on is that it's "ok" to replace the 12v battery every few years. With proper maintenance a lead acid battery can last 10 years. In all my cars I've owned or my parents owned we have never replaced the 12v battery and they are all over 10yrs old.
So Hyundai needs to get their act together on this one
I don't need this for my 23 SEL but it's very timely information to have. Thanks Corbin. All the best
I was having 12v battery issues. Went to dealer for recent recall and assess battery, they did the update and said battery was fine but the 12v still continued to die. Then the car stopped charging.
The next service visit, they changed battery and did some testing. They tried changing charge port, didnt fix, they ended up replacing the iccu and now its working fine.
What kind of issues were you having with charging? I'm having an issue where it won't charge according to the schedule but if I disable or override the schedule it charges fine. Still have our original 12V but have not had the most recent ICCU update. Had car since Feb 22.
@garethw001 specifically level 1 and level 2 charging was not working at all. Level 3 was chargjng.
You had better luck than my 2020 Kia Soul EV, just past 1 year full battery replacement warranty my 12 volt died, and I wasted several trips into town (via ferry at my expense) all those times Kia claimed the battery was fine so I just replaced it with AGM and never looked back.
From what I was told at Auto Zone by the battery specialist, the vehicle is supposed to have an AGM battery
I've just been changed this ordinary 12 Volt battery for an 12 volt / 100 amps iron - phosphate one,( LiFePO4) no troubles anymore and also in winter ❄️ have always 13.3 volts constantly
Happened to us at almost 2 years in too. And the Hyundai dealer tried to blame us and gave us the complete run around. In spite of the fact it’s happening to Ioniq owners EVERYWHERE.
my general rule with dealers is to try and avoid going to them. I'd pay $140 easily to not have to talk anyone at a car dealer.
Very good report...Too bad yours didn't fail sooner....lol...So we could have gotten the details of the problem and the fix sooner. I hesitated with the lithium too. I was a bit worried about the cold weather functionality and the huge cost compared to the AGM, which is known to take extreme heavy use.
As for people inquiring about the Ioniq 6 Yes we are replacing the 12v battery's on a regular basis for the same condition even if the ICCU update was completed Prior.
@IoniqPower Remember it is simply a 12v battery issue that can be resolved with a 12v Lithium replacement
The owners manual states that owners should only be installing Hyundais OEM battery so I’m a little confused why you’re recommending anything but. Wouldn’t switching to a lithium be grounds for denying a warranty claim?
@@TheIoniqGuy No it would not. It is no different than replacing your battery in an ICE vehicle. As for the OEM battery you have to understand you will continue to be in the same 12v Battery failure issue
To create a warranty issue, you have to take the Vehicle outside of the designed operating parameters. Example would be converting it to a 24-v system
Hyundai as any manufacture cannot enforce you using any OEM parts for your vehicle. Wiper blades, Brake pads, washer fluid, brake fluid 12v battery, ect.
We have 2017 and 2018 Chevy Bolts. I put a cheap plug-in voltmeter in each and watch it frequently. The BMS maintains the charge at 12.6 volts in each. I replaced both batteries at the four year mark. I also use a cheap desulphater once a month on each. Obviously, the 12 v system is important to me, as most of the internal operating electric components are operated by this system. Chevy didn't "cheap out" and use lead acid batteries, but AGM types. Still, they are the most vulnerable system in your car ! And I consider them as short lived, and disposable items. Basically, 19th century in a 21st century car...
When the 12V on my 2022 first 'died' last fall I couldn't get it going with a jump start pack at all it just displayed an error. Measured the voltage with a multimeter and it was showing 3-4V when connected to the car's terminals but 7.xV when disconnected. Put it on a trickle charger for a few hours to get it back up to 12-13V. I installed a Bluetooth battery monitor at that time and realized that something was blocking the car's systems from topping the 12V off as it is supposed to. I discovered that it was related to my recent enrollment in my local utility's demand management program which connected to the car through Bluelink. As soon as I removed my car from this program it went back to topping up the 12V every ~24 hours (according to logs from the battery monitor which stores 30 days) regardless of whether it was plugged in or not, or driven. It has not given me any issues since, knock on wood. Now close to 50,000km on the car. I'm debating replacing it proactively this fall anyway which would be close to 3 years of ownership but still haven't decided if AGM is worth the extra cost or just get a new standard lead acid more often.
Mine happened on my GV60 at about 15 months. ICCU checked and found no faults. Dealer did a replacement under warranty.
How long ago was that?
@@TheIoniqGuy About a month ago. They took three weeks to source a replacement, but the car was drivable (they said there was one sick cell).
My daughter’s 2019 Kia Niro EV is coming up to 5 years old on September 21, 2024. After 64,000 kms in Canada she is still using her original 12v battery and has never had a 12v battery issue.
If you live in a cold climate, I'd also advise go AGM instead of lithium. There's some really nice lithium 12v drop in replacements out there, but they all require their own BMS and warming circuitry to keep up to temperature. If you're in a cold place like I am (Colorado), you may find you can't use the car in the cold only if the 12v is anemic in the cold. I'm planning on replacing my battery with an Optima Yellowtop when the time comes
I purchased my 22 Ioniq 5 12/31/21 and have had zero problems with my 12 volt battery. I’m a former auto tech and have lots of tools and equipment at home. After watching your video I went into my garage and tested my battery. It 0:02 specs out exactly as manufactured. 550 CCA at 12.4 volts. With that said, I only have 8,000 miles on it. I think I saw you have around 22,000 miles on your 5.
So maybe it’s not age, maybe it’s the length of time the vehicle is in the on position. I drive only short distances daily. 15 to 20 minutes once or twice daily.
Possibly when in the on position the 12 volt battery does not get charged at all or properly. It’s being discharged then when it’s back in the off position it charges.
As you stated, basically, it’s death to a lead acid battery being discharged then recharged. Food for thought anyway.
With your new battery check the voltage immediately after you have driven it after a longer drive.
Costco actually now sells only interstate AGM batteries.
Excellent presentation
My 2023 Ioniq 6 just experienced the first dead 12v battery. It has been at the Hyundai Dealership so far about 1 week (and yes the 12v was jumped and also died on their parking lot while it was sitting there for 2 days). They have been “so-called” trying to do diagnostics test on it and communicating to “Hyundai Tech-line”. They have tested and stated the 12v seems to be fine, whatever else test they did seems fine. So now they are saying it must be a “parasitic draw” somewhere draining the 12v battery. I have no apps connected to my Ioniq 6 other than Bluelink. No bluetooth electricity company, no 3rd party self-installed apps. Nothing.
My Ioniq 6 is 1 yr and 3 months old now. All recalls have been performed up-to-date. All updates such as ICCU has been performed for as long as I've been driving this car.
Here’s a recap before I brought this in on “Saturday July 27”.
On that week “Wednesday July 24”, I went into the dealership with NO problems other than needing to get my “key fob” reprogrammed to my ioniq 6 because it was a new FOB. When they reprogrammed it, they decided to do a “new update” that was available on my car relating to “charging”. Keep in mind, I did not know they did an update on that same day (Wednesday).
Now fast forward to Thursday/Friday, I walk out to my car at night. DEAD 12v batttery!
So fast forward about 1 week (todays current state), they are trying to still diagnose it and they said they don’t see anything wrong with the 12v battery, they dont see any other things “so-far”. So now, they say it’s a “Parasitic draw” somewhere that they are trying to figure out.
It’s frustrating because they are barely working on diagnosing the car (they claim they are too busy and they don't have enough EV techs). They are barely talking to “hyundai tech-line”.
I can only think that the “reprogramming of the key fob” could be the possible culprit because when re-programming, the key has to talk to all the computer modules in the car (50+ of them I was told). OR it could be the “charging update” that they installed on my Ioniq 6. Maybe it was a BAD update that was installed on my car and possibly on other people’s cars as they bring it in.
What’s strange is, they seem to not be able to “re-install” an older version update to even test the theory out! or test if the car performs proper (before i brought it into the dealership on July 24th).
I’m lost for words right now and HYUNDAI is constantly ducking and dodging my phone calls for “status updates”.
@The Ioniq Guy
If you know of so possible issues that might sound like what I could be dealing with, please provide me with some suggestions. OR ANYONE.
Hope this is interesting to someone!
I've been trying to reach out to Hyundai Corporate, NO LUCK because they don't let customers interact with corporate.
I've reached out to customer service, this is too high level techy for them to comprehend.
I've reached out to Hyundai Case Managers, they are just a "high level" fancy customer service team.
I need Hyundai CORPORATE because there are so many issues with this dealerships lack of "communication", experience level, and service level. They duck and dodge all phone calls and calling ANYONE back for status updates.
Disclaimer: My experience may not apply to anyone else's situation. Based on early reports in the Chevy Bolt Forum, in 2017 I purchased a battery minder ($21.47) and ran it overnight once a month (the last day of each month was an easy reminder). The indicator (functioning) light was always blinking on hook up and solid the next am. I used my original 12V battery for over 6 years (when I sold the Bolt) without any glitch in battery performance. I now do the same to my Ioniq 5 and so far, at 15 months, it is still doing well. Whether this has anything to do with "removing dendrites which lead to internal short circuits" is left to the opinion of someone more knowledgeable than I. IMHO, spending $21.47 once rather than $150 every 2 years has been the better choice.
I just went ahead and put Ohmmu batteries in both my eGMP cars when I got them to just not ever have to worry about this. They're Lithium Ion , and have their own BMS that is tuned for the eGMP platform specifically -- and can be updated OTA. They have an app that lets you monitor the battery, and these things have so much capacity I hardly ever see (or need!) the orange light of ICCU 12v charging. Expensive? Yes, but just one incident of my wife and kiddos being stranded somewhere because the cheap Hyundai 12v battery failed, and it wouldn't seem that expensive at all.
BTW I've not seen one eGMP complaint or failure due to an Ohmmu on any forum or reddit (just early Tesla failures), I think the tear-down criticism of them is probably pretty overblown. I also don't live in an area of the country that gets that cold to need battery heating in my 12v battery....
@@ev_kimchi they are pretty new. We shall see after 2+ yrs.
I do plan to replace mine with Ohmmu. Can I just buy one and keep it in the trunk?
I never thought I would say this but you're completely wrong in saying "we need to accept this" I do not think customers need to accept a lower quality experience than what they have become accustomed to...the truth is 1) Lower quality battery used on the I5 2) You stopped using your I5 as your daily driver and has been sitting there that caused the 12 Volt to deplete so much that YOUR ICCU did not maintain an adequate charge. This is unacceptable, EV's need to be designed to be SUPERIOR to ICE vehicles if we expect wide adoption of this technology and get ride of toxic gas ICE vehicles. This is why I returned my IONIQ 5 because I don't need to worry that my car is going to get bricked because the 12 volt dies or the ICCU is not maintaining the 12 volt properly.
I completely agree with you that it’s unacceptable that they put in a sub par battery and maybe the AGM will last longer, but what else is somebody going to do besides accept this is the reality of the situation and just replace it? Is the trouble of getting a car towed and hashing it out with a dealership to replace it worth $140? For me, absolutely not. Maybe for someone else it is. I got 2.5 years out of it. I knew it was coming and I can live with that.
I didn’t know you got rid of yours? What are you driving now?
Great advice Corbin! Thank you!
In my opinion Both Kia and Hyundai tend to release the vehicles and allow the customers to complete the Testing in a variety of conditions then release soft wear updates to address different issues. This goes for all their vehicles. As for my 2022 Rav 4 Hybrid I have not had a single recall or a single software update that has had to be completed. That being said I think the Kia Hyundai brand has a lot to offer with their 100.000 Mile Warranty and their entry level price.
It is interesting that this happened even though you had left your main battery at 82% which you would expect would keep the 12v active regardless of not being driven.
One thing I’ve tried is to not use apps like Ohme, Bluelink, TRONITY etc unless I’m actually using or planning to use the car - basically minimising the number of times the car gets ‘pinged’ causing the car to wake up and draw power. From the battery monitor data I can see there are days where there are zero ‘wake up’ blips and just a top up charge.
Hyundai lowered the limit of how many times external apps can use its API to ping the car last year so it shouldn’t be much of an issue anymore but yeah, I don’t really recommend people use those apps
Interesting video. My '23 I5 limited gave me a "dead" battery after about 8 months. Dealer messed with it for 30 days, fortunately they gave me an I5 as a loaner. They decided it was software pinning the car too much and had me delete Bluelink and reinstall with new password. They told me there was no damage to 12v, even though it was down to 6.5 to 7 volts when it had died on me. They told me the same thing to have it towed. I instead put it on a external charger and brought it up to full charge and watched it for a day or two and then drove it to dealer. It has been fine for six months and is holding a charge just fine, so you never know. As far as batteries dying in 3-5 years on ICE cars, I guess it depends. My wife's battery on an Elantra died after 6 years, but my Sonata Hybrid was 8.5 years old when I got rid of it with the original 12v. I checked the battery you got on Amazon and it says if I order it today sunday 5/19, I will have it on 5/22 so perhaps they have improved the shipping. One suggestion based on your experience loosing the history data from the computer, I bet if you kept your jump pack connected to the terminals when you changed the battery you would retain that data - just an idea.
I don't understand why Hyundai/Kia can't figure this out! My 2016 BMW i3 BEVs 12 volt battery lasted for almost 7 years. just replaced it 1 year ago. the car also have remote GPS locating and preconditioning via app and most other features which the Ioniq 5 has.
Getting a 2024 SEL AWD in three days. Will keep you posted.
It's commendable that at leat the car tells you what the problem is! I've had to replace the 12V batteries in both of my previous EVs, my LEAF and my Model 3, and they do seem to give up the ghost sooner than in a gas car. I assume that this will prove a real problem -for ANY EVs- in the future, because all the telematics and software routines that depend upon the 12V battery are much more intensive and constant. I mean… every time I approach the locked car, and it extends the door handles, it's using the 12V battery! Every time! I predict that, with time, automakers will transition to better solutions. 24V? 48V? Li-ions? Gel? I'm not that worried about it. I already have a jump starter on board for when and if the 12V dies. Plus battery chargers and tenders in my garage. It's Murphy's law, after all.
@@ericgregori Too bad other features of the car are so erratic. I was happy to get rid of mine.
We have been lucky on ours or we just happened to get a good battery. 52k miles on it now and still no 12V battery problems, think it said 98% SOH on a battery tester.
I bought an Ioniq 5 (‘23) in Sept of 2023. My 12v just died yesterday (July 23rd). It didn’t last a year. I do already have 32000 miles on my car but some people said that shouldn’t matter.
found this video. FYI: 2025 Ioniq 5n with just 900 miles and the 12v battery has died a few times. Because of weather here in the PNW I often let it sit for like 3 days and that's when it seems to die. After the 3rd time the 12v died it appeared to be the end of it. I have since put in an AGM Interstate and a battery monitor. If you want I will update in a few days/weeks.
My Ioniq 5 is 01/2022. I had to call Hyundai assistance twice because the car sat dead in the garage due to a low 12V Battery. Both times my Ioniq sat dead, connected to my charger at home. The second time the battery had 3.1 Volt. Later I was told by Hyundai Belgium, to disconnect my home charger asap after charging the car and not let it sit connected. This will continue communications between the car and the charger and these might drain the 12V battery. I have been carefully disconnecting the car from my home charger since, and so far (40 days later) had no further problems. (both times the original battery was jump started, still using the original battery today)
Same here. My Ioniq 5 12v battery died after 2.5 yrs. Dealer tested and replaced at 50% discount.
Not bad!
Have had my Ioniq 6 for just over a year and have had no problem with my 12 volt battery.
Awesome!
@2020PorscheTaycanTurboSOther than this 12v issue, the Ioniq cars are very nice vehicles. I’ve loved mine 🤷🏾♂️
0:30 Hi, I don’t drive an Ionic, I have a 2022 Hyundai Tucson hybrid that I bought new. I arrived at your channel after searching “Hyundai 12v battery failure” after previously searching “2022 Hyundai Tucson hybrid dead”. I found a couple of videos that allowed me to unlock the car and then start it, but nothing as comprehensive as you offer on your channel. But, the question is, will you extend a hand to Hyundai hybrid owners and include our models on your surveys? If Hyundai does take such feedback into consideration, they should know that the list of unhappy owners with nearly identical issues is growing over this 12v battery row!
My battery failed 6 weeks ago since then it has been off the road in the dealership waiting for a replacement battery under warranty i got the car back a few days ago and i also noticed that all my reading had changed like yours according to it i have averaged 4.5 kWh over 15000 miles which is totally wrong apparently the reason it took so long to get a replacement battery is there is a shortage of them in the UK.
If i had known that i could of bought one my self I don’t think i would of bothered to get one under warranty and put up with all the hassle in the last 6 weeks and I to would advise other owners to go for that option instead of putting up with a hired car that only does 30mpg I could of easily bought one with the extra cost of the fuel I had to pay for out of my own pocket.
Our Ioniq 5 and its 12V battery are about the same age as yours. I too have been looking into an AGM replacement even though we have had no issues. Perhaps this will prompt me into being more proactive and getting it done. BTW isn’t pulling the high voltage cutoff switch recommended before disconnecting the old 12V battery?
dont bother getting an agm,,, get a 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery
yes get a "quality" AGM, and not the "Billionaire Cheapskates" AGM. you do this for the same reason you DON'T put 12V "Starter Batteries" in a Golf Cart. yes technically they'll work, but they'll also fail prematurely simply because they're NOT designed for the use case (hint: that's why they make specific Marine/Deep Cycle batteries)...
yeah, i've got a half dozen pictures on my phone of FULL PALLETS (3 layers high) of dead 12V Group 31 batteries headed off to the recyclers for the 2 reasons being, #1- they got used in the WRONG APPLICATION, and #2 - they got spec'd FOR the application simply because THEY WERE CHEAP.
The OEM 12V battery in my GV70 EV is AGM. With the following markings: AGM60R-DIN(12V) 60Ah (20HR)
37110-DS620
RC 100min
ССА 640А
Oh, it died after 1.5 years.
Just had my battery die in my ‘23 SEL AWD (32,000 mi), bought in April of ‘23, unlocked the car and all lights turned on, but didn’t turn off. I tried to start it and it immediately started sounding that ‘12v Battery Low’ warning. Currently waiting on Hyundai service lol. I guess I’ll see how we’ll go.
im dreading this happening to our ioniq now :(. But a portable jump starter doesnt charge up a battery - gives it a boost to start a car. Did you try 12v trickle or smart charger?
No but once the car is jumped it should begin charging the battery again. No I didn’t. If the battery is at that low of a voltage there’s no saving it
On a 2022 EV6, as soon as I became aware of the ICCU/12V battery issues I replaced the 12V OEM battery with a highly-rated AGM. This within the first 6 months after purchase of the car. We have had no ICCU or 12V battery issues. The ICCU was inspected per the recall last week, and no issue was found Can't say that replacing the 12V battery prevented any problems, but I considered it to be relatively cheap insurance. Why have a crap battery in an expensive EV?
2.5 years is not bad for a battery although it depends on the weather a bit.
The issues stem from the fact that in EV'S the lead acid battery doesn't get that regular start up jolt of a heavy draw of power. LA batteries will naturally build up sulphate and that jolt helps to shake it loose.
What's needed is for a 6 monthly regeneration of the battery to remove the sulphate electrically. I'm due to do mine but I'm worried about disconnecting the battery for 12 hours for the process to complete, because I don't think that it should be done with the battery still connected.
Any ideas?
Could you also please link to the tools you used?
10 and 12mm socket wrench and 6 inch extension. That’s all you need
My ioniq 5 12V battery died 12 months in at 8800 miles 😢 it got towed to the dealership. They replaced the 12V battery but it didn’t work. Then they replaced the motor and it didn’t work. Now they’re waiting for a third part that’s on back order. It’s been 2 months 🙃
From my understanding charging AGM battery requires a different voltage than standard lead acid battery. “AGM batteries generally charge at 14.6-14.8V, not the 13.6-14.4 of standard lead acid. Charging at 14.4v will undercharge the AGM battery”
Ugh I think you’re right. Everything I read said AGM could just be dropped in but it looks like the car only outputs about 13.5V which like you said will lead to an under charged battery. But who knows maybe because AGM can handle deeper discharges and it has a wider operational range vs standard lead acid, it’ll be fine. I’m not going to drive the car this week so I’ll see what happens over the next 5 days
What was your state of charge for the week it was in the garage? Did you notice lately the charging light being on at a greater frequency?
80%
Regarding your Update on voltage on AGM vs standard Lead Acid.
I believe the Car charges the 12V battery with 14,7-14,8 V so I Think That voltage is sufficient for an AGM battery.
I went through this exactly the same a month or so ago.
Did you replace your battery?
Thank you!
Is the key anywhere close to the car while it's been sitting? If the car senses the key nearby it won't go to deep sleep mode. There are a number of reports of people leaving their EV6 for months and coming back to it working just fine.
Kona EV is now 3 years old, my Ioniq 5 is 2.5years old. Original 12v batteries. Think I may just replace them now, rather than have it happen at the most inconvenient time. 😅. Thanks for the videos.
I’d have no issue replacing it on a scheduled timeframe, what I don’t want is to be stranded. Right now some peoples die in 6 months to never so it’s a crap shoot on when and if it will die. Hyundai needs to fix or mitigate this problem.
You didnt need to disconnect the high voltage fuse first before disconnecting the 12v battery?
I really wish manufacturers would stop placing parasitic drains on their batteries. Honda has this problem with Odyssey and Pilot, I got rid of them because I was flat out sick of getting stranded and replacing batteries with no possible fix for the issue.
Does anyone have knowledge on the 12v battery on the Ioniq hybrid 1.6 petrol. 2021 model. Similar problem.
Curious as to why you did not pull the tab to disable the HV battery before you replaced the 12V
2.5 year old Ioniq 5 and my battery has just died. 23000km’s and I live in Sydney. I also just had the battery ICU update.
I'm in identical situation - who's your dealer? Phil Gilbert at Lidcombe says they need the car for a few days to run diagnostics, want to charge $240 for that exercise, but if battery is faulty they will replace it under warranty. We all know the fault is with the 12V charging algorithm so it may be time to threaten a class action to stop the mass consumer fraud!!
@@argystar Tynan Hyundai Sutherland is my dealer. I got NRMA to give be a jump start. They said the battery was fine. Went for a drive and topped it up over night with a slow charger. Not had a problem since. Asked to check the 12v battery on the recent service. Surprise Surprise no issues with it. Again not failed since.
@@wilkothewiz Thanks - my experience was less fortunate because as soon as the jumper source was removed the 12V low battery warning was displayed and then everything died within 10 seconds. There was no opportunity to drive anywhere or for the main battery (at 90%) to charge the 12V battery :(
i have got my ioniq 5 dealer replaced iccu. today when i parked it home for 1hour and came back turned car on it had all sorts of errors check foward safety systems, regenerative braking wouldnt work, blind spot safety systems many errors. i disconnected 12v battery for 15 minutes and when i reconnected it back i didnt had errors. later after i went for a drive for a drink for 1h. when i finished drink i turned car on and again all those error messages came back. is this issue with 12v battery failing or ? did you had simmilar experience ?
My 12V died one day after the sw update 9B5. The service advisor at Hyundai explained to me that the 12V battery charges the main EV battery! I told him that doesn’t make any sense that the main battery would draw current from the 12V, but he explained that is how Hyundai does it. I am confused and asked why the orange light comes on (although I haven’t seen it after these Iccu and charging sw updates) because I thought it was the 12v battery getting charged up from the main battery. Again he told me that it was not they way Hyundai works.
I think he was right that something is draining current from the 12v battery, and they will troubleshoot it by running diagnostics. Has anyone been able to locate sources of current draw, while the vehicle is turned off?
Here is an update to my 12 V battery problem. It may confirm what others already know. I took my car in after trickle charging it for four hours to approximately 14 V although it was not 100% charged. I got to the dealer and they were unable to start the car as the 12 V battery was completely dead at 0% according to their meter. They kept it overnight. Put a new battery in and check to see if it was draining any current. They couldn’t find anything. So I don’t know if it’s solely the battery or if all the software updates are not allowing the 12 V battery to be recharged. I kind of think I haven’t seen the orange dash Light come on for weeks and makes me suspicious that the 12 V battery just isn’t being recharged anymore?!
Sucks!I bought Ioniq 5 for just 2 years and 4 months, mine dead when we were out of state on 11/4, the battery was changed, the whole thing messed up, it did not work. I left my car in Hyundai dealer in NH, God knows if it will be fixed. my question is if manufacture will reimburse all my loss? please advice
Sorry if this was already asked and answered but can you just put the 12v on a battery tender every few months to increase its life?
Do you have a video about the install in more detail? There’s a frunk in the way I don’t know how to remove!
Open the lid to the frunk and you just pull straight up on the plastic panel above the battery and it comes off
I guess Chevy did the right thing and used AGM 12v in the Bolt since the beginning.
I am going on 7 years with the original Bolt battery! (2107)
One thing I didn’t know would happen. My Ioniq 6 will just turn on the a/c when no 1 is in it to cool down the battery. So yeah…our battery will be used up more frequently
Hmm, just before I got rid of my Prius 3 the battery died. It had 7.5 years on it's back. 2-2.5 years for those batteries in EVs seems very short (from an ICE-guy perspective) and wasteful. Not to mention the additional cost of purchasing a battery every other year. For me, buying a car is mainly a cost perspective. I have several must-haves and then I look which car fits that at what cost. EVs already have a hard time in this comparison, but having to buy batteries 3-times that often might be a complete showstopper for them in my situation.
Per your update comment, I disagree! I've actually monitored the I5 during charge phase and it delivers 14.4~14.7 volts during its charge phase which is well within the acceptable range for an AGM...
Yep further investigation and time have proved AGM is perfectly fine and is the way to go
Boss. If I go to my closest dealer (almost 2hrs driving one way) in case my 12V battery died. Will my dealer pay for the tow truck? Assuming it is under warranty of course. Or should I just go after 2 years of purchase the ioniq5, I just go and tell them if they could please replace it? Will they replace it just because we say it to prevent the hussle for the ones that lives way far from the dealership?
I believe if they determine it’s under warranty, you can file a claim to get reimbursed for the tow but if you call Hyundai roadside assistance I think they only offer a 100% complimentary toe a few miles. Keep a 12V battery booster in you car at all times so that if you do experience this you can at least get the car started again and on your way. Either way, I’d say preemptively replace it at a couple years of age
The battery booster you mention is the same as a portable jump starter?
Yeah
@TheIoniqGuy thank you boss. I'm ordering one of those portable cable just now. I'm at my 7months of ownership. Good timing.
It’s cheap insurance to save yourself from being stranded with a pricey tow truck bill
Is the situation any better for Kia EV cars, like the 2024 Niro?
I admittedly don’t follow Niro too much
@@TheIoniqGuy We have a new Niro, bought in February. A friend has as owned a Niro for about a year. I'll let you know if the has a similar battery issue.
Here is some 'field news' of the Niro, from an owner. He owns a 2019 Niro BEV[01st yr for the car]. It came with the original battery. I got the car 16months ago. I have replaced the battery at about 08 months into the ownership. Thankfully, the battery is easy to get to and replace [not buried like a Tesla}. No warning, just POOF no start. I could not find an AGM thru the dealer, who I had fix the battery, so its still LA. The tech admitted that Kia et al cheaped out with the stock battery to save money [or increase profits?}. My guessed recommendation? replace the stock battery with an AGM NOW before it fails 'in the rain, in a combat zone of a major city, on a long weekend'.
Hello. Is this an issue that specifically impacts the Ioniq 5 or all EVs? I'm coming from gas car and am considering purchasing the refreshed Ioniq 5 later this year, but am now worried of all the issues related to this car. Should this issue and other common issues for this car deter me from making the jump?
this is more specific to 2022 and 2023 Ioniq 5s -- hopefully the issue has been resolved with 2024 and/or 2025 model year. other EVs have had troubles here and there with the 12v but as far as i'm aware nothing like this. if you're looking at a newer 2024 or 2025 it's probably not a big concern -- just keep a 12v jumper pack in the frunk (see ioniq guy's video on using one) but you'd probably be wise to have a 12v jumper pack regardless.
Here in Florida we change 12 volt batteries every 2 years because after 2 years you are on borrowed time., Doesn't matter what type of vehicle
get a 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery,,, the best opinion
He discussed why not to get the Ohmmu battery
@@GraysonA that doesnt mean that is fact or not to use another makes ,, he opinion right
@@MAGApepe I have no idea, but he mentioned that the car is not made to charge a lithium based battery, lithium has different resistance, and not as good as smoothing out noise on the 12V bus.
@@GraysonA pretty much all lith batteries have a Battery management system,, bms,, that protects itself and makes them a direct drop in replacement
@@MAGApepe Good to know! I didn't know that applied to the 12V.
That brand of battery is probably made side by side with other brands you'd mentioned. I would invest in a very good intelligent "trickle charger" and add a "dongle" so you can maintain the new battery - I would think that the 12v charging software is pretty much garbage. I'm aware that there's been discussion around not using battery maintainers on some of the forums but unless the car manufacturer is willing to revise the software that may be your only choice....
Mine died 36k miles 3 years on my kona 64kw gave me plenty or warning mind
My Ioniq5 12v battery was dead the other day. I remived the 12v battery and charged it. The onboard charger hasn’t been working. Battery dead again. Hopefully the onboard 12v charger isn’t attached to the High Voltage Battery!
By all means, all Hyundai EV owners should get the recall software update done. However, don’t expect it to do anything special for your 12 V battery issues. I have a feeling the recall efforts were mostly service theater.
With my wife's Tiguan I had to program it for the different battery type.
How did you do that?
Few different tools for VWs, I used carista but odbEleven is popular. I have not been able find the equivalent for Hyundai. I wonder if the dealership can program it?
Did your plug in monitor tell you that the 12 volt battery was dying? I thought you showed it gave a SOC or health indication for the 12 volt battery
It’s not something I regularly checked
How could the failure of a 12 volt battery possibly be any sort of news?
I didn’t refer to it as news but people are here to follow my journey with my Ioniq 5, so anything that happens with it is news
It's ridiculous that they designed the car using an AGM battery and then they cheaped out. It's also ridiculous that they can't get the software integration between the main battery and 12v to maintain the 12v for longer.
Any Idea when Tesla will let we Ioniq people start charging at their Superchargers ?
tesla update to a 16v lithium ion battery that's is 1/10 size of a lead acid battery. And it design to last life time. Also, the price of making this battery is actually cheaper than lead acid battery. Whether you like Elon or not, you have to know the right information about tesla
What about the ohmmu 12V lithium battery?
I discuss that in the video
This issue continues to plague the Ioniq 5. Clearly, to the same extent that one needs to check the tire pressure of one’s car on a regular basis, the same applies to the 12 V battery on an EV. Not on ICE car, though. You measure the CCA (or CA) of the battery when you get your EV, and compare it to its rating displayed on the battery itself. You might even get a so-so/damaged battery with the new car… As time passes, you’ll be able to see, by this regular battery health check, that it’s aging. You can replace it before it unexpectedly fails on you… It’s the same type of health check that you can do on your home’s alarm system if you don’t want it to fail on you unexpectedly. One last conclusion: If you going to leave your EV parked for two weeks, it might make sense to put a battery maintainer on the battery…
Corbin, I bit the bullet and bought a brand new 2024 Ioniq 6 about three weeks ago. I ate my own dog food and tested the 12-volt battery about two weeks ago. Interestingly, I got a voltage reading of 12.32 volts, and my battery load tester told me to recharge the battery!!! I thought that was odd since I use the car every day since I bought it. The 12-volt battery has a rating of 550 CCA. It tested at 617 CCA. This is good. I retested the battery yesterday and I got a reading of 12.5 volts. I come to the conclusion that Hyundai is using a starting battery as a “heavy-duty” accessory battery whereas an AGM battery is better suited for such task. So, yes, when the time comes, I’ll also buy an AGM battery as a replacement to the OEM’s 12-volt battery for my Ioniq 6. Tks for the video.