The front wheels are fine with that little drag. That’s standard a little drag of the brake pads. Will release when in use. Nothing to worry about. Perfectly normal. Yes the exhaust mounting has broken away and is out of line. Maybe from when it came of the stands.
Thanks Paul, Good to know about the wheel. I'll run them in a little which I think will also help. I think the exhaust has run that line the whole time I've had the car, but you may be right, it could have been the fall. I'm going to look at some old video to see if I can confirm
Hi Henry, More impressive progress... well done. Although the rear suspension is very simple the parts will have grown together over time so takes time persuading them to part company. In answer to your first question I wouldn't consider the drag on you front wheel to be excessive. It's certainly not binding badly. The fact the front brakes have been taken apart and reassembled will always create a bit of drag until the pads are bedded in, moulding themselves to the contours of the disc. Also consider that your discs weren't in the best of condition in previous posts (unless you have replaced them, as I know you mentioned the possibility) so any light surface corrosion will also cause a slight drag. Personally I would get it out on the road, and go through a few gentle braking operations to get the shine back on those discs, then monitor the situation. If you decide to refurbish the callipers please watch out for the small depression on the pad side of the pistons which must be in the correct orientation during reassembly. Incorrect installation causes the pistons to jam in the calliper leading to serious brake binding which is extremely dangerous. It is a point easily missed! Probably best to go for the Polybushes again on the rear rebuild. They are much more robust than the original rubber ones. It would also be worth replacing the oil in your dampers while they are off the car as you did for the front. One final suggestion is to get some grease into your propshaft UJ's while you are under there (if you have one with nipples fitted) . I know the later models had 'sealed for life' joints, but I think even these had a nipple at the sliding yoke. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Carsten, Good news that the wheel drag is ok. I am planning to replace the leaf springs with poly bushes but I'm really struggling to get the front bush out. Other than using a vice, any thoughts? I'm also going to replace the oil the the dampers. I have already greased the propshaft, front and back, through the grease nipples. I did it a couple of weeks ago when I wasn't going to do the rear suspension as part of a service prior to getting it to an MOT. Also, what are your thoughts about taking the leaf springs apart? I've watched a couple of videos on it and it doesn't look too difficult. Is it worth doing/ does it provide any benefit? Thanks again for your support and advice
@@HenrysGarage Henry, the time served dodge on getting bushes our it to use a length of threaded bar or an extra long bolt. Space a socket over one end, just larger than the Bush. Wind a washer and nut on the each end and tighten the whole lot up. The nut and washer on the non socket end need to be small enough to pass through the spring roll end. That should force the bush into the socket and out of the spring loop.. And obviously plenty of penertating fluid into the bargain. As regards dismantling the leaf springs... I wouldnt! I think you will create yourself a whole series of problems. The main stud holding the leaves together will probably shear off. If it does come apart you will need some means of compressing the springs together whilst reassembling as I think they have slightly diffent curvatures to create the spring effect... Also, I belive the individual springs are assembled at factory with a separating slip membrane between them as obviously they need to slide slightly as the leafs flex during road use. (I think the membranes are just visible in the video) This membranes will probably disintegrate if you take the unit apart... Lord knows where you would get this from if it needed replacing. Personally I would give then a light wire brushing followed by your favorite 'direct to rust' paint treatment. Just one last point ( I expect you already know this) is that your broken /missing exhaust mounting will be an MOT fail if you are getting one done soon. Keep up the good work. 😉
Hi Henry. That went a lot quicker than a I thought it would considering the amount of rust. That’s good. When reassembling use some anti seize lube on threads to make it easier to take apart next time. That broken check strap is worrying. It could be that you used the wrong one. Chrome bumper cars use a shorter one than rubber bumper cars. You may want to check the springs for broken leaves. They can crack and not be that noticeable. Not sure your plan but are you planning on taking the damper links off and cleaning everything up. You should now that it is all apart. You will have a difficult time reconnecting it all with the links and brackets all connected. Good work. That is not an easy job by yourself.
I've just tried a quick comparison and the strap on the other side seems to be the same length (hard to measure because one is on the car and the other is my spare). I'll also have a good look at the leaf springs. Could it be because this is a rubber bumper car with chrome bumpers? I didn't change the straps. I wonder if the lighter weight could cause greater movement on rebound and make it snap?
No nothing to do with the weight of the bumpers. RB cars have a higher ride height to accommodate USA requirements so straps are longer. As are the links, However, I agree with David that the straps should not break like that. Quality is much poorer than originals.
I'm in two minds about it.. I've watched a couple of videos and they make it look easy. I, on the other hand, seem to make everything difficult. I think this would be the sensible thing to do but I don't think I will (I haven't decided yet) because this is new to me and I would rather do something and complete it, gaining the confidence and the repeat and take a step further next time or at a later date. I have just come in from cleaning up all the parts so I need to make my decision soon
@@davidgerrard8661 Thank you, I had done little more than oil changes prior to this project, and I hadn't done an oil change for 20+ years so was a bit of a leap
Hey Harry, I love your Jazz music. I have a degree in jazz and your music is wonderful. I am following all your video's of your wonderful MGB and like yourself I am not a mechanic. I am also working on the front suspension of my MGB - Please follow me - BORN TO RESTORE. Lots of video's of my MGB.
I've been watching your videos John. I have 4 channels (this one, one for business, one for personal use and one for Greek History Lessons (Zouzoukos)). I'm watching you in my personal channel
Great video!
Thank you. Glad you like it
The front wheels are fine with that little drag. That’s standard a little drag of the brake pads. Will release when in use. Nothing to worry about. Perfectly normal. Yes the exhaust mounting has broken away and is out of line. Maybe from when it came of the stands.
Thanks Paul, Good to know about the wheel. I'll run them in a little which I think will also help. I think the exhaust has run that line the whole time I've had the car, but you may be right, it could have been the fall. I'm going to look at some old video to see if I can confirm
Rebound strap should not break like that. Maybe your vendor has a guarantee?
I'll look into it
Hi Henry, More impressive progress... well done. Although the rear suspension is very simple the parts will have grown together over time so takes time persuading them to part company.
In answer to your first question I wouldn't consider the drag on you front wheel to be excessive. It's certainly not binding badly. The fact the front brakes have been taken apart and reassembled will always create a bit of drag until the pads are bedded in, moulding themselves to the contours of the disc. Also consider that your discs weren't in the best of condition in previous posts (unless you have replaced them, as I know you mentioned the possibility) so any light surface corrosion will also cause a slight drag. Personally I would get it out on the road, and go through a few gentle braking operations to get the shine back on those discs, then monitor the situation. If you decide to refurbish the callipers please watch out for the small depression on the pad side of the pistons which must be in the correct orientation during reassembly. Incorrect installation causes the pistons to jam in the calliper leading to serious brake binding which is extremely dangerous. It is a point easily missed!
Probably best to go for the Polybushes again on the rear rebuild. They are much more robust than the original rubber ones. It would also be worth replacing the oil in your dampers while they are off the car as you did for the front.
One final suggestion is to get some grease into your propshaft UJ's while you are under there (if you have one with nipples fitted) . I know the later models had 'sealed for life' joints, but I think even these had a nipple at the sliding yoke.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks Carsten, Good news that the wheel drag is ok. I am planning to replace the leaf springs with poly bushes but I'm really struggling to get the front bush out. Other than using a vice, any thoughts?
I'm also going to replace the oil the the dampers. I have already greased the propshaft, front and back, through the grease nipples. I did it a couple of weeks ago when I wasn't going to do the rear suspension as part of a service prior to getting it to an MOT.
Also, what are your thoughts about taking the leaf springs apart? I've watched a couple of videos on it and it doesn't look too difficult. Is it worth doing/ does it provide any benefit?
Thanks again for your support and advice
@@HenrysGarage Henry, the time served dodge on getting bushes our it to use a length of threaded bar or an extra long bolt. Space a socket over one end, just larger than the Bush. Wind a washer and nut on the each end and tighten the whole lot up. The nut and washer on the non socket end need to be small enough to pass through the spring roll end. That should force the bush into the socket and out of the spring loop.. And obviously plenty of penertating fluid into the bargain.
As regards dismantling the leaf springs... I wouldnt! I think you will create yourself a whole series of problems. The main stud holding the leaves together will probably shear off. If it does come apart you will need some means of compressing the springs together whilst reassembling as I think they have slightly diffent curvatures to create the spring effect... Also, I belive the individual springs are assembled at factory with a separating slip membrane between them as obviously they need to slide slightly as the leafs flex during road use. (I think the membranes are just visible in the video) This membranes will probably disintegrate if you take the unit apart... Lord knows where you would get this from if it needed replacing. Personally I would give then a light wire brushing followed by your favorite 'direct to rust' paint treatment.
Just one last point ( I expect you already know this) is that your broken /missing exhaust mounting will be an MOT fail if you are getting one done soon.
Keep up the good work. 😉
You need a second jack under the cart spring to keep tension and lower it after undoing the spring hanger bolts etc.
Thanks Buck
I had same problem doing my moggie... really need 2 jack's
The eagles, it certainly would help
Hi Henry. That went a lot quicker than a I thought it would considering the amount of rust. That’s good. When reassembling use some anti seize lube on threads to make it easier to take apart next time. That broken check strap is worrying. It could be that you used the wrong one. Chrome bumper cars use a shorter one than rubber bumper cars. You may want to check the springs for broken leaves. They can crack and not be that noticeable.
Not sure your plan but are you planning on taking the damper links off and cleaning everything up. You should now that it is all apart. You will have a difficult time reconnecting it all with the links and brackets all connected. Good work. That is not an easy job by yourself.
I've just tried a quick comparison and the strap on the other side seems to be the same length (hard to measure because one is on the car and the other is my spare). I'll also have a good look at the leaf springs. Could it be because this is a rubber bumper car with chrome bumpers? I didn't change the straps. I wonder if the lighter weight could cause greater movement on rebound and make it snap?
No nothing to do with the weight of the bumpers. RB cars have a higher ride height to accommodate USA requirements so straps are longer. As are the links, However, I agree with David that the straps should not break like that. Quality is much poorer than originals.
I've just checked my old receipts and I did order the right ones. Thanks for the help
I took my leaf springs apart, cleaned and painted them. There are UA-cam videos on this and it is quite simple to do.
I'm in two minds about it.. I've watched a couple of videos and they make it look easy. I, on the other hand, seem to make everything difficult. I think this would be the sensible thing to do but I don't think I will (I haven't decided yet) because this is new to me and I would rather do something and complete it, gaining the confidence and the repeat and take a step further next time or at a later date. I have just come in from cleaning up all the parts so I need to make my decision soon
Maybe should have supported the body nearer the rear?
Yeah,maybe, it was the first time I had done anything like this and I was trying to capture me learning how to do it for other novices
@@HenrysGarage you've done a ton of work on that car 👍
@@davidgerrard8661 Thank you, I had done little more than oil changes prior to this project, and I hadn't done an oil change for 20+ years so was a bit of a leap
Hey Harry, I love your Jazz music. I have a degree in jazz and your music is wonderful. I am following all your video's of your wonderful MGB and like yourself I am not a mechanic. I am also working on the front suspension of my MGB - Please follow me - BORN TO RESTORE. Lots of video's of my MGB.
I've been watching your videos John. I have 4 channels (this one, one for business, one for personal use and one for Greek History Lessons (Zouzoukos)). I'm watching you in my personal channel