A good tactic on this climb is to down climb the route which allows one to go very light since you don’t need to carry overnight gear over the summit. The climb is mostly 3rd and 4th class and we didn’t use a rope in either direction when I did it many years ago. From a bivy site near the base it took three hours to reach the summit and we’re back at Rainy Pass by about 6 pm. This wasn’t an original concept as other friends had used this same tactic in their ascents as well. Anyway I also know folks who had descended to the south, but it seems like an unnecessary complication, since it seems as if that route, while shorter is at least as difficult. I’d honestly be hard pressed to find much 5th class climbing on the NE buttress. That said, it’s a very nice outing in a lovely area.”
Thanks for the video! Watched it numerous times before our Goode NE Buttress climb in July and it definitely helped to recognize certain features along the way.
Very nice video of a great climb. Our party of 4 did this 30 or so years ago: spent the night on the summit! A week later I was in Stehekin again and hired a plane to fly behind the N Face, thus allowing an excellent portrait of the peak from about 8000 feet.
@@themountainexperience5692 I have a scan of the B/W image. I placed it here if you wish to see it: < stanwagon.com/public/GoodeNortheastButtressAerial.jpg >
Thanks for giving lots of good information on the whole route! It's so disappointing when a mountaineering vid has tons of really loud music, or when it leaves out major portions of the route making it less useful for others. You do a great job!
what time did you guys reach the summit? If you were planning to bivy on the summit would you combine the approach and climb into one day and start very very early?
We reached the summit around 10AM I think after leaving the bivy spot at 8ish. If you’re fast and give it an alpine start you could definitely combine the approach with the climb and just bivy on top
In 92 we slept below the glacier, next day soloed the route and hiked out, so yeah 1 night is doable, and if you're in excellent shape maybe could do it within 24 hrs
Wow this is a super well made video. Love The informational voiceover with the excellent footage
A good tactic on this climb is to down climb the route which allows one to go very light since you don’t need to carry overnight gear over the summit. The climb is mostly 3rd and 4th class and we didn’t use a rope in either direction when I did it many years ago. From a bivy site near the base it took three hours to reach the summit and we’re back at Rainy Pass by about 6 pm. This wasn’t an original concept as other friends had used this same tactic in their ascents as well. Anyway I also know folks who had descended to the south, but it seems like an unnecessary complication, since it seems as if that route, while shorter is at least as difficult. I’d honestly be hard pressed to find much 5th class climbing on the NE buttress. That said, it’s a very nice outing in a lovely area.”
Thanks for the video! Watched it numerous times before our Goode NE Buttress climb in July and it definitely helped to recognize certain features along the way.
That’s awesome, glad it helped!
Awesome coverage of your climb, I've been all around there but never made it to Goode. Well done
Nice job on the video!
Thanks!
Very nice video of a great climb. Our party of 4 did this 30 or so years ago: spent the night on the summit! A week later I was in Stehekin again and hired a plane to fly behind the N Face, thus allowing an excellent portrait of the peak from about 8000 feet.
Nice! The views from that plane ride must have been insane
@@themountainexperience5692 I have a scan of the B/W image. I placed it here if you wish to see it: < stanwagon.com/public/GoodeNortheastButtressAerial.jpg >
love these videos - keep it up!!!!!
Will do!
Very good video. Subscribed. Major climbing achievement. Must have been fun :)
Thanks for the sub!
Incredible video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love this. Thanks
Thanks for giving lots of good information on the whole route! It's so disappointing when a mountaineering vid has tons of really loud music, or when it leaves out major portions of the route making it less useful for others. You do a great job!
Glad it was helpful!
So Sick!!
what time did you guys reach the summit? If you were planning to bivy on the summit would you combine the approach and climb into one day and start very very early?
We reached the summit around 10AM I think after leaving the bivy spot at 8ish. If you’re fast and give it an alpine start you could definitely combine the approach with the climb and just bivy on top
In 92 we slept below the glacier, next day soloed the route and hiked out, so yeah 1 night is doable, and if you're in excellent shape maybe could do it within 24 hrs