Been using molasses to remove rust the last 10 years, I usually leave parts for a week in the mix for a week, give them a blast and leave another week as you have. I use an old plastic sieve to scoop up the stinking grey mould on top. Make sure you have a sealed lid as you have, if the storage container is left open some insects lay eggs in it, had all sorts of unidentified things swimming around in the tank that eventually die then make the mix stink more. Everything rusty goes in, including tools but don’t put in chrome valuadim tools. It reacts badly with it for some reason. One thing to watch out for is parts that are made up out of multiple layers of steel, like that torsion bar mount, the mix even eats out the hidden rust between overlapping layers, Parts can become loose and unusable.
I have a rectangle tank with the same mix ratio, i put my VC K frame control arms rear drum backing plates all in together and all of which had no paint left and surface rust, 2 weeks later pulled them out, pressure washed them and they were like brand new. To stop the flash rust I had some Blast X , you mix with water to the ratio on the bottle and spray it on with a pump up pressure spray bottle after you pressure wash each item. Good job Dave it makes rust removal so easy.
Very interesting Coopz, I've never heard of that before and very impressive. You said you mixed it up at 10:1 so is that before lunch or after 😉 cheers, Andy in Adelaide / Valiant City.
There used to be a mollases tank near benella they used for dipping army equipment my old work had a manaro dipped there in 90s best way to do a car and great for doing those shitty looking old wheels and anything else you can think of metal glad you covered this coops
I think about three weeks minimum is the go with a thin mix like that. They came up well but I read on a mower forum that molasses can weaken steel on a molecular level. Hopefully these are all good.
Came up a treat 👌👍 cheap ass straight white vinegar does the same i did it with some rusty old spanners i got given sidchrome ones it ripped the fu%&en chrome off them 😂i ended up haveing to paint em with that dodgy chrome spray
I reckon that rust converter flakes off when it's not over actual rust. I put some on front Springs and where I had been able to get them really clean, it didn't stick. And no, I hadn't driven the car.
They look great. For me I use citric acid only 2-4 days in the bucket. They always flash rust, clean up with scourer and rust converter then etch asap. Can't say pricing. I get a 10kg bucket from cafetto. Mix is up to the user, don't need alot to make a good brew. Just a suggestion.🙂
Molasses or citric acid. This is another readily available substance used to make a bath for soaking rusty steel and iron. It is in fact the citric acid in molasses that does the job. Between 1:5 and 1:10 in water works fine
This is certainly the way to go. One need's the space though. I have been using it for many decades. I have found metal drums work more efficiently. Certainly cleans the 205 lt drum up ...very well. Now be warned. This stuff is putrid. It will make some individuals dry reach. I personally love the smell. But MOST people do NOT. So be warned !! Now a word to those that think other stuff is better. The COST here is the deal winner. As he said , I do mine 1:9 ratio. Nine parts water !!! What will beat that ? Also this stuff does NOT wear out. It does evaporate though. So this needs to be considered. Now, last bit of advice. Once removed from the bath the part will start to oxidise. IMMEDIATELY. It will turn orange...rust. Add water to this , well it rusts right in from of your eyes . Just rinse with a diluted rust converter from a hand held spray bottle. Dry then etch, undercoat or leave bare. The rust converter will hold the bare metal for awhile. For those of you wondering, this method does not remove paint. It sort of softens it but not well enough to be considered paint removal. Same for putties and sealants.
Time management 😉 I can hang 5 sets in the mix in the same time to blast 1 And power is an issue the new workshop is off grid 😉 Very power efficient way to strip 👌
@@timcoppinger3373 generator runs welder,compressor and hoist when it goes in Got a heap of cordless stuff and solar powered charging station in the shed 👍
Been using molasses to remove rust the last 10 years, I usually leave parts for a week in the mix for a week, give them a blast and leave another week as you have.
I use an old plastic sieve to scoop up the stinking grey mould on top. Make sure you have a sealed lid as you have, if the storage container is left open some insects lay eggs in it, had all sorts of unidentified things swimming around in the tank that eventually die then make the mix stink more.
Everything rusty goes in, including tools but don’t put in chrome valuadim tools. It reacts badly with it for some reason.
One thing to watch out for is parts that are made up out of multiple layers of steel, like that torsion bar mount, the mix even eats out the hidden rust between overlapping layers, Parts can become loose and unusable.
I have a rectangle tank with the same mix ratio, i put my VC K frame control arms rear drum backing plates all in together and all of which had no paint left and surface rust, 2 weeks later pulled them out, pressure washed them and they were like brand new. To stop the flash rust I had some Blast X , you mix with water to the ratio on the bottle and spray it on with a pump up pressure spray bottle after you pressure wash each item. Good job Dave it makes rust removal so easy.
Nice work.
Something I have always wanted to try for myself
Very interesting Coopz, I've never heard of that before and very impressive. You said you mixed it up at 10:1 so is that before lunch or after 😉 cheers, Andy in Adelaide / Valiant City.
There used to be a mollases tank near benella they used for dipping army equipment my old work had a manaro dipped there in 90s best way to do a car and great for doing those shitty looking old wheels and anything else you can think of metal glad you covered this coops
Well I'll be buggered.
Very impressive hey…came up real nice..
Made it very easy mate that’s for sure 👍
I think about three weeks minimum is the go with a thin mix like that.
They came up well but I read on a mower forum that molasses can weaken steel on a molecular level. Hopefully these are all good.
Good job mate keep up the good work looking forward to seeing your next project ❤❤
Came up a treat 👌👍 cheap ass straight white vinegar does the same i did it with some rusty old spanners i got given sidchrome ones it ripped the fu%&en chrome off them 😂i ended up haveing to paint em with that dodgy chrome spray
I reckon that rust converter flakes off when it's not over actual rust. I put some on front Springs and where I had been able to get them really clean, it didn't stick. And no, I hadn't driven the car.
Good info mate I’ll keep an eye on it
Cheers
Thanks Coopz. I never knew. Interesting.
They look great. For me I use citric acid only 2-4 days in the bucket. They always flash rust, clean up with scourer and rust converter then etch asap. Can't say pricing. I get a 10kg bucket from cafetto. Mix is up to the user, don't need alot to make a good brew. Just a suggestion.🙂
50/50 vinegar and water works as well in hours not days
Yep she been around a long time the way to go . In the mid 80 I seen a story on it in a magazine on old car .👍🏻🇦🇺
It looks like the solution fermented and has a pellicle on top. That solution is probably about 6% alc/vol lol. cheers Coop.
Not sure how it would taste 🤣🤣🤮
@@coopzcarz7312 like senega and ammonia cough syrup lol.
Molasses or citric acid. This is another readily available substance used to make a bath for soaking rusty steel and iron. It is in fact the citric acid in molasses that does the job. Between 1:5 and 1:10 in water works fine
This is certainly the way to go. One need's the space though. I have been using it for many decades. I have found metal drums work more efficiently. Certainly cleans the 205 lt drum up ...very well. Now be warned. This stuff is putrid. It will make some individuals dry reach. I personally love the smell. But MOST people do NOT. So be warned !!
Now a word to those that think other stuff is better. The COST here is the deal winner. As he said , I do mine 1:9 ratio. Nine parts water !!! What will beat that ? Also this stuff does NOT wear out. It does evaporate though. So this needs to be considered.
Now, last bit of advice. Once removed from the bath the part will start to oxidise. IMMEDIATELY. It will turn orange...rust. Add water to this , well it rusts right in from of your eyes . Just rinse with a diluted rust converter from a hand held spray bottle. Dry then etch, undercoat or leave bare. The rust converter will hold the bare metal for awhile.
For those of you wondering, this method does not remove paint. It sort of softens it but not well enough to be considered paint removal. Same for putties and sealants.
Molasses or citric acid work a treat, I find if you treat afterwards with diluted phosphoric acid the metal stays rust free for ages
Where do you get Phosphoric acid ? Is that the same as DEOXIDINE ?
That’s impressive, why didn’t you sand blast instead? That’s an excellent result after 14 days though.
Time management 😉
I can hang 5 sets in the mix in the same time to blast 1
And power is an issue the new workshop is off grid 😉
Very power efficient way to strip 👌
@@coopzcarz7312 how are you going to be doing welding and car hoist , compressor , grinders , generator?
@@timcoppinger3373 generator runs welder,compressor and hoist when it goes in
Got a heap of cordless stuff and solar powered charging station in the shed 👍
@@coopzcarz7312 nice, best way to do it.