Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 чер 2020
- JLCPCB PCBs for $2 & SMT assembly service: jlcpcb.com/
Patreon: / sdgelectronics
A big thank you to all of my Patreon supporters!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In this video:
Eakins Black Microscope: bit.ly/2VEcYaW
Camera Adaptor for Microscopes: bit.ly/2KBZQMQ
IMX290 Camera: bit.ly/2VfuH7J
Hayear HY-2307: bit.ly/37VYdoe
Orange Camera: bit.ly/37VYiZ4
946C Hotplate at Banggood: bit.ly/2MuLwqM
946C on AliExpress: bit.ly/374v3Tp
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Soldering Tools and Equipment:
Solder Paste: bit.ly/2E1P5jR
Solder Flux: bit.ly/2MQn7we
Quick 857DW+ Hot Air Station: bit.ly/2OWDvf4
T12 Soldering Station: www.banggood.com/custlink/3KK...
AC Version: www.banggood.com/custlink/3GK...
T12 Iron Tips: www.banggood.com/custlink/3DG...
Daniu Tip Cleaner: bit.ly/31VHwWM
KSGER T12-BCM3 Tip: bit.ly/2xgYXCQ
Test Equipment:
Mustool MDS8207 Multimeter: bit.ly/2kKHr7A
FY6900 Generator: bit.ly/2yZI40n
Differential Probe: bit.ly/31xNTOF
Microscope Equipment:
Eakins Barlow Lenses: bit.ly/3aBY5tR
Eakins Black Microscope: bit.ly/2VEcYaW
Eakins Camera Microscope: bit.ly/2x86hnT
Camera Adaptor for Microscopes: bit.ly/2KBZQMQ
Amscope Microscope Head (US): amzn.to/2YmZWNx
Amscope Trinocular Microscope (US): amzn.to/2YdBE8k
Amscope Trinocular Microscope (UK): amzn.to/2V8w9Gh
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope US: amzn.to/2VLWEpb
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope UK: amzn.to/2GYGYFV
Visit my website: www.sdgelectronics.co.uk/
#amscope #eakins #camera #ElectronicsCreators - Наука та технологія
@SDG Electronics, thank you sooo much. I couldn't get my microscope and cam clear at the same time. Watched all your scope vids and at the end you solved it for me. Thx a lot
Thank you so much Steve, what a great video. I have same *ahem* *microscope* (i meant to say) here and found it invaluable.
I am also really looking forwards to any more videos you are planning on both the custom light. And also possibly if there is a new camera, to replace the aging Sony IMX 290 blue ones. That would be great too.
ALL GOOD INFORMATION 👍😁 A-Z
* Excelent lighting solution & execution
* Hot re-flow tip..
* I now understand why there are de-zooming lenses, It's all how you look at it 🤓
You RoCk
🇺🇸❤🇬🇧
It would be good to be able to switch the led banks as being able to direct the light from one side can make things more readable. I'd be inclined to do a PCB with left/right/all switching for that reason.
Fantastic video which cleared up any confusion I had about the difference between a CS-Mount and C-Mount. While you didn't say too much about CS-Mount and C-Mount except on how to fix a problem, the sheer mention put me on the right trajectory where I was able to answer several questions I had with the help of Google. So thanks!
.
I note you own a Hayear HY-2307 and a IMX290 Camera. The IMX290 sensor is made by Sony and is highly regarded by the astronomy fraternity (as a telescope camera) because of it's excellent low light performance.
.
I've set my heart on a camera which uses the SONY IMX236 sensor which is in the same family as your IMX290. The IMX236 is not as sensitive to low light as the IMX290, but given that you can control the light intensity I didn't think the IMX290 had any real advantage over the IMX236. Furthermore I noticed that the IMX236 cameras don't seem to have autofocus which is of little value to a stereo microscope. So my "Goldilocks Camera" decision rested on a camera based on the cheaper IMX236 sensor rather than the more expensive IMX290 sensor.
.
On the other hand the Hayear HY-2307 is touted with having a 14mp Panasonic sensor (the Hayear HY-3307 is a 16mp Panasonic). The problem with Hayear is they seem to deliberately hide the sensor model/part# only to tell you that it's a "Panasonic Sensor" and nothing more.
Would you be so kind and tell me how the Hayear HY-2307 compares to the IMX290. I know a lot about both cameras because I've already done a lot of research. The Hayear HY-2307 is 1/4 of the cost of the IMX290, but it does not mean that it is 4X as bad.
.
With a looming purchase of a stereo microscope this July I was hoping to save some money by buying the Hayear HY-2307 or Hayear HY-3307.
.
Will I regret my decision to buy the Hayear HY-2307 or Hayear HY-3307 or should I bite the bullet and buy the IMX236 which seems to be in the same league as your IMX290 ?
.
I put this question to you only because you own the Hayear HY-2307 and IMX290 cameras which means your opinion counts.
.
Many thanks in advance.
Excellent work
Good idea with the led ring light with adjustable angle. It could be like flower petals. You could use a knurled wheel to turn a threaded rod for up and down movement. Attach a nut to some spokes attached to the petals and you could get some adjustment. Great video again Steve!
:-O I quite like that! I need to do some sketches to see if I can make that happen.
Do you have the files for the ring holder? Ive started to draw something in solidworks that fits around the microscope body with a knurled top section and threaded outside face. It might be good to encorporate it into the ring holder then its static.
Thanks for the info...👍👍
I made myself a ring light 20cm diameter with a ring eight Cree XT-E LEDs hand-soldered to 6mm copper foil and stuck over fibreglass tape to an aluminium plate with a white acrylic diffuser in front of them, and powered by an off-the-shelf 700mA LED supply. I use this with a Raspberry PI camera with an Edmund Optics 12.5mm S-mount lens at typically 40cm. At this distance the reflection of the ring is a little larger than the field of view, so is not seen. This arrangement gives me sufficient space for rework, probing etc, and I get 1200 lux which gives sufficient shutter speed for real-time eye-hand coordination. My display is a standard PC monitor mounted directly behind the stage, so I can quickly transfer my view from direct vision to magnified by just moving my eyes, and also put drawings on the screen alongside the image.
Thank you Sir
I think you need little spotlights at a shallow angle, ie, 45º, so the beams are directional and can never bounce up. I can see some reflections with the 3.5 lens, maybe because the inner LEDs have too wide a spread. I use shallow spots on my desk and it works.
I really need to get some light for my microscope (widefield zenith) but the bottom is basically a rectangular box so a bit different. Currently it has an incandescent bulb which probably won't be long in this world. Re: PCB competition... it's very game-able.... looks like you have a good chance.
Certainly sounds like an interesting opportunity to play around with flex-rigid, though perhaps an expensive option for the application!
My first thought was 4 aluminium PCB sticks for the LEDs, with connectors to plug to a central FR4 board. Can reduce the area of all boards significantly, and if you make the aluminium sticks long enough it might be possible to bend them to provide the angles you're after too!
That would be the most sensible option - I'm expecting people may want to build this, so probably shouldn't make it cost prohibitive :'D
you might try a printed skirt to go around the led pcb to snoot down the light scatter. Add some crinkled aluminium foil for dichroic reflection.
I would buy a dozen petalled boards (assembled or kits), especially if contained three pots/encoders to controll brightness, theta, and delta theta (Aziz style). Thanks!!!
It shouldn't be so difficult to get such a basic yet important piece of equipment setup & working these days should It Steve. However microscopes just seem to be
in that PITA category. I remember when I first got my microscope and was trying to get it setup for board repair, I must have spent about £100 unnecessarily for extra lenses & fittings etc, that still ended up giving me an unacceptable image. To be honest I'm still not 100% happy but I've given up now :)
Thanks Steve 👍
John
Would you recommend a wf10x/23 or 24 eyepiece for a wide field of view?
heavy vignetting with
the .35 lens
Rather than flexing the board to get the light directed at the central spot, could you use through-hole leds so you could bend the leads to direct the light?
I'm trying not to use through hole LEDs. They aren't great for high brightness applications and have poor thermal performance. The plan is only 4 or 8 high output LEDs
Have you got a link please for the c-mount to c-mount adapter used at 15.31 on the video please as I really need them. Thanks jay
The seller I bought mine from no longer has them. Search for "5mm C-CS Mount Lens Adapter" on eBay and it should find many different ones.
SDG Electronics thanks so much, it’s just what I need for my camera because I can’t get it to focus . Thanks jay
@@sdgelectronics Thanks
SDG Electronics just bought 3 of them, thanks for the help. I let you know the results. Honestly I really appreciate the help.xx
@@SURGE101 hopefully it fixes any problems. I only realised the issue after much fiddling around
You mentioned newer and better camera sensors. Have you tried any since this video? What ones are you looking at? I'm interested in the imx290 and it seems the other model numbers of imx are quite confusing to understand. In other words the higher the number it is not better but rather a different application. Any tips would be appreciated.
The IMX sensors seem to be most thoroughly used in CCTV cameras where low light performance is needed. I hope to investigate something newer this year though, possibly a 4K 60 FPS camera. The IMX290 will still give you great performance though, I'd just miss out the autofocus tbh.
Hi, I have the exact same IMX290 and focus ring, but my image quality is junk, it's pretty grainy and poor. Nothing like the examples I see all over the net? Know of a potential fix for that? Is it my ring light? And it has a lot of chromatic aberration too which I can't seem to so in other examples with this camera.
If it's looking grainy, it's usually because there is not enough light. Also check everything is seated properly.
@@sdgelectronics I figured this would have been the issue, and after hours of testing I've found both my rings lights are junk. The original AMScope one and the super bring led ring light I have are both great for general viewing through the eyepieces, but jank for the camera. I'll buy the 6W Gooseneck spotlights I've done some research and they seem to give the best results. Thanks for confirming my suspicion!
Cant find a link to the hot plate in the description fyi
Thanks, I knew I missed one
can I use these cameras with a compound trinocular microscope ???
Yes, they all work if there is some kind of port that can be adapted to a C or CS mount
most people says these cameras can only be connected to a monitor using the HDMI cable but not to a PC.
can I connect any of these cameras to a PC or laptop using HDMI cable to get a high definition picture ???
If you have a way of capturing HDMI to video then yes you can. An Elgato or Avermedia HDMI capture device is pretty commonly used. You can also use USB, but not at the highest frame rate.
PC or laptop will have HDMI output connector. Camera also has HDMI output connector. Only if you have HDMI capture device (with HDMI input connector), you can connect it there.
Steve--How do you like that solder plate? I just ordered one.
I can't speak to the long term reliability. Anecdotally lead-free alloys are not as good as the lead counterparts, but I've had really good results with the SolderKing paste and I do like the Bizmouth alloy - it makes assembly and rework so much easier.
0.35x or 0.5x, which of these two adapters has the same eyepiece view field?
0.35x usually
It depends on the size of the camera sensor. See: www.microscopeworld.com/t-microscope_c-mounts.aspx and www.selectscience.net/editorial-articles/digital-camera-to-microscope-c-mount-adapters-explained/?artID=39079
Is there a difference in quality between black and white? eakins microscope
No, it's just a different colour.
Why bother with flex-rigid pcb when this type of application will probably be better suited by connecting small pcbs by simple wires?
Certainly would normally use wires, however it could be quite a nice straightforward project to try designing the PCB and test out the capabilities of some of the PCB suppliers. It'll be the first time I've attempted it using PCB software at home.