Who else LOVES shooting at night?! It's sooooo much slower - I love it! 👉 Night Lightroom Preset I mentioned (if you want to save time): goo.gl/Qd8iFs Subscribe & hit that 🔔(new video Mo&Thu)! 👉 bit.ly/PierreTLambert & 💥instagram.com/pierretlambert. ps: music includes soundcloud.com/dogjames, soundcloud.com/randuski
You better use the 500 rule, divide 500 for the focal length at which you are taking the photo and that results in the time you should expose the photo. for example 500 / 16mm = 31.25 (maximum time you can expose without noticing the rotation of the earth) 500 / 50mm = 10 seconds and so
Hey later sometime, a detailed star edit video would be great! I'm headed to Colorado soon for some Milky Way shots while at the same time the Persaids will be happening! Love the tips!
Salut Pierre, Depuis quelques semaines je binge watch tes vidéos. Je me suis même inscrit à ta formation. Cette vidéo est la plus utile que j'ai regardée. Monter les ISO au max et ouvrir à fond pour rapidement voir ce qui est dans le cadre : c'est top. Tellement simple et tellement utile j'aurai du y penser ! Deuxème tips intéressant concerne la mise au point à l'infini. J'avais déjà entendu plusieurs fois qu'il suffisait de regarder son objectif et de la mettre à l'infini mais tous les objectifs ne l'ont pas comme le mien. En revanche je viens d'essayer avec mon Canon 700D en live view et je n'ai pas de petite barre sur l'écran qui indique le focus... Si quelqu'un connait le truc je suis preneur. A bientôt
Thank you for all the advice photographing the Milky Way is what peak my interest in photography. P.S. I recommend a 12 gauge for shooting rattle snakes, lol.
I find that some lenses are not properly marked for infinity. So I "calibrate" infinity on the moon or something at great distance while there's still light. I use a small piece of white tape on the lens barrel and a black pen mark to indicate where the infinity mark should be for maximum sharpness.
Wait I’m super new to photography and learning. I use image stabilization. What does turning it off actually change for me? (Ps. I believe you that it is better I’m just one of those people who like to understand what exactly it changes so I have a better understanding of it.) also sorry on commenting on such an old comment.
@@PlatyCast Hi Callsign! I hope this reply still reaches you. Image stabilization is awesome and great in day to day shooting, but not when taking long exposures. What image stabilization does, is that is ''moves'' the lens or the sensor in order to get a stable image. Normally this will help you when taking photos or video, but when your camera is on a tripod you already know for sure that you don't need stabilization (since the frame is still). If you keep it on, the camera will sometimes still use the stabilization, thus moving your perfectly still frame. When taking a long exposure this can cause slight blurriness which can be seen in for example the stars. I hope you understand, English is not my first language so I hope I was clear enough!
@@SoowDeJu that makes sooo much sense. I actually was doing some street photography yesterday and I kept getting blur in my long exposures even though they were on a tripod and I wasn’t touching the camera. I absolutely could not figure it out. It took me about an hour to get the shot I was looking for. I guarantee that was why my shots were blurry. Thank you so much!
Super vidéo, merci Pierre! I have a question though. Wouldn't shooting with a very wide aperture make the focusing harder? Why isn't it better to shoot with F/16 for example?
If you have too long of a shutter speed, the stars will move and create light trails instead of fine points. Unless you have special equipment you won't be able to create a long enough exposure with a small aperture without the stars turning into lines.
Maybe somebody mentioned it in comments but to avoid star trails is something called 500 Rule basically you divide the focal length of your lens with 500. For example, if you are shooting with a 50mm lens, your shutter speed would be 10 seconds (500 / 50 = 10) this applies if you have a Full Frame Camera but for Crop Sensors (Canon 1.6x,Nikon 1.5x Crop) you have to divide that also: For example, with a 50mm lens it is 500 / 50 / 1.6 = 6 seconds (approximately).
Great video mate I love shooting Astro my latest video was shot at night with a lot of cloud cover I got lucky with a break in the clouds revealing a portion of the Milky Way love the results. Great tip about dialing down the monitor brightness 📷❤️ new sub for you cheers Paul
Do to the high temperature in that or any dessert you won't find rattlesnakes during the day they do however come out in droves at night so be careful and always make lots of noise as you step so as to scare them off your direct path you wouldn't want to accidentally step on one
I just love watching your videos! Keep up the good work. I’m such a big fan. Let me know if your ever in the Florida area. Would love to take pictures with you 😊
Another great video. I'd appreciate a video on editing for sure. I use Luminar, but I'm sure many of the options are similar. Thanks again for putting these videos out.
Thanks for the videos mate really amazing all of them. The Milky over the Opera House is stunning I am here in Sydney and it's hard to get obe of them any tip for light pollution or any tip to add. And which camera you used for that shot and lens thanks again great channel ahhh I am using a Nikon d700 a beast really heavy hehehe but amazing
Hi Pierre! Thanks for this great vid. I unfortunately do not live in such beautful places, or have the camera (I only use my iphone) and wonder what time is good to get out.
Great video Pierre. Having chased the N. Lights for a few evenings earlier this year and failed dismally with only the camera finding a hint of green, some great tips! Watch out for the rattle snakes, having played golf in that part of the world and being told not to go into the rough I got through a lot, and I mean A LOT, of golf balls ;-)
Sadly it was only a short trip and the N Lights remain on the bucket list as only the camera saw a brief small appearance not visible to the naked eye ;-) We did get some very Icelandic weather of freezing rain and 85mph winds which made for a great experience.
This is perfect timing for me!:) here in Australia we will have the blood moon in 7hrs. Any's tips on shooting this amazing phenomenon would be greatly appreciated and promised to tag you in any shoots that make it to IG:) merci
Awesome!! Enjoy it man! The moon s very bright to use spot metering to expose correctly. télé lens also or you won see anything but a point. :) enjoy!!
Pierre, awesome video! One question, would you say the advice on lowering the brightness of the backscreen a good practice for normal shooting too? since you say that brightness would be the closest to how it would display on the computer? I've gotten fooled by that screen and struggled to get a good exposure. Thanks!!
Hi, I’m starting to get into night landscapes, with all the cameras out there, I’m a bit lost. Can I ask for your expert opinion about which body is best for this type of photography? Can you give an example in each of these brands, Canon, Sony and Nikon? Ideally Not over $3500. Many thanks. Happy 2020!
Does it matter where you are on the globe so long as you don't have light pollution? Whenever I've looked up to the night sky with my eyes, it's always been pitch black with white dots, no interesting galaxy stuff or anything like that, do I just have a bad patch of sky?
Love shooting at night and learning as I go. Ranch outside Zion Utah and great views. Have you take a try of Affinity instead of Lightroom? Great program but a learning curb again, and on Mac. Let me now
Hahah what can I do if it never gets dark when it’s summer here?😂 I’d love to see how you edit your photos, especially star photos and other night photography captures:)
Pierre T. Lambert Close enough:) I live in Sweden and rn summer is crazy, no dark skies and we’ve had sun and 30 degrees celcius + every day for the past few weeks! I just wanna get aome dope shots of the stars now but It doesn’t seem possible to me bc of the no darkness conditions😂
I think you mean the rule of 500 no ? For the star trail ? Don’t go over 500, for exemple 16mm*30sec shutter speed = 480 which is ok. But if you do 16mm*35sec= 560 you will get a star trail. Sorry just saw the description now 😂
Hi Pierre very nice video but if I may I would like to add something regarding the on camera preview of the raw files. When you shoot raw although the camera will save the files as raw when you preview the file on the camera what you see is how it would be the file if it was saved by the camera as Jpg. This means that you don't see on the back of the camera how it will look on your computer as a raw file but how it would look as a processed (with added brightness, contrast, sharpening, etc.) Jpg file. You are right about the brightness of the screen especially for night photography should be dimmed to something like -2 in the settings of the camera but the preview would still show the Jpg. version of your image. Thank you for all your good work.
Hey George! you are totally right, it's a render you see on the back. The brightness of the JPG or the RAW is supposed to be the same however :) See you in the next episode! Have a great weekend!
So maybe this is an obvious answer, but when you post an image with a subject that's closer to you (let's say an illuminated tree) with the night sky, do you take two pictures and make a composite so that the stars and the tree are in focus?
Heya! Thanks :-) usually my foreground subject is already in the “infinity” zone so sharp. Composing photos could work too :-) Ps: just released the new video ua-cam.com/video/Uc4CetfP8vM/v-deo.html hope you enjoy!!!
@@Pierretlambert Thanks! From what I tried last time I shot stars, when I focused on the stars manually, the foreground wasn't in focus but when I focused on the foreground (which was quite far from me), the stars were in focus too. Weird!
Back screen brightness trick - Adjusting monitor brightness, per se, should not be confused with a similar “live view” control that goes by different names in different cameras. The feature (menu selectable, but different from absolute brightness) is whether or not the live view image takes exposure settings into account. Sony calls it “setting effect” (on or off). Olympus calls it “live view boost”. The “On” lets you compose, but if left on can mislead as to exposure outcomes. Check the manual, but you get the idea. (As an aside, in the Sony A6000 series, raise the built-in flash and with your finger tilt the flash head back to momentarily brighten the monitor to enable composition in dimly lit scenes- just an aside.). Rabbit stew, anyone 😉?
🐰 yes good point! Good tip for the a6000! It’s confusing to many in sure why their screens go brighter before a pic! Goo explanation Paul :) See you in the next episode!
Something should be said about the different exposure times with full frame vs crop sensor. Longer exposure times with full frame cameras. Also exposure times with different focal lengths... The wider your lens is the longer the exposure time. The smaller the focal length you'll have to shoot with shorter exposure times so that you don't have star trails.
Hi!! Yes agreed for the focal length. If I’m not crazy I mentioned i was speaking for wide angles. The longer the focal length the longer the trail at the same exposure time. Thanks for pointing it out! :)
Pour les étoiles floues il faut diviser le nombre 500 par le nombre de millimètres de ma focale pour avoir le temps de pause en seconde maximum au dessus duquel mes étoiles vont commencer à s'étioler. Par exemple avec un 24mm je ne peux pas dépasser les 20sec de temps de pause si je veux que mes étoiles soient parfaitement nettes.
Pierre T. Lambert J'adore le contenu que tu crées c'est super inspirant ! Tu penses faire une vidéo sur Paris ou même Lyon ? Et sur le Noir et Blanc ? Belle journée à toi aussi profite !
Yes video à Paris vers Septembre je pense. :) Ptet même un petit workshop... à voir des gens m'ont demandé! Mon planning est encore un peu en l'air en ce moment! N&B pourquoi pas en effet, ça fait longtemps que je n'en ai pas fait!
hey Pierre!! I really enjoyed this one! Thanks for the tips :) I have a question tho is it possible to get something out of a f/3.5 aperture? I don't own a lens that can go f/2.8 :/
Hamadel Ndiaye I rent lenses from borrowlens.com . I shoot Canon and usually rent the Tokina 11-16mm which gives you a very wide field of view for great landscape shots. Plus it goes down to 2.8. I've used lenses that don't go down that far and have gotten great shots but you usually have to increase your ISO which might create a little more noise. I usually shoot at 1600iso, 15 second exposure at 2.8. And you must shoot in RAW to be able to bring out the details when you edit them. And i have a crop sensor camera. If you have a full frame camera then you can get longer exposure times.
I might have an issue here: when I crank the ISO up to 3200 the images are noisey as hell! I don't have a wide angle lens that goes below F4.5 & my camera doesnt allow a shutterspeed longer than 30sec (Canon 7D). Any tips? :) Great vid as always! I was in Utah not too long ago, but these issues kept me from shooting the stars regularly
Use a remote timer and try BULB mode (and time it), your camera has it! I put an example in the description I think. Good luck :) ps: New video is out, Enjoy!! ua-cam.com/video/3XJh5K4k6DA/v-deo.html
Im starting to see that a lot of people are shooting in very high ISOs and somehow editing the Noise out, But A good rule of thumb to follow with that is (Especially if you use Lightroom) Try to get rid of that noise by adjusting your exposure, Highlights, and shadows. When you have gotten ride of most of it that way and making sure your blacks are rich THEN use noise reduction. Using it up front make your Photo look too cartoony
I LOVE night photography! But I have a problem with my images being too noisy. I've spent several hours one night in Arches National Park, testing a huge range of ISO+Shutter Speed combinations, and no matter what I do, once I view them in Lightroom, they just look so gross. I'm using an a6000, and have tried every setting within ISO100-1600, shutter speed 10-30 seconds, at f1.8. I just can't get a nice, clean image!
Heya!! Yes it’s hard. What you can do it shoot multiple photos like 7,10,15 and stack them to remove the noise. Softwares like star landscaper stacker can do it. Possible via PS too :)
Hey, thanks! I have Starstax for combining images to make star trails, but I never thought of stacking to eliminate noise. Since I have such awful noise no matter what settings I use, I didn't think it would work. I'll have to try that... someday. Living in Los Angeles, I don't get opportunities to photograph the stars in the sky often.
Who else LOVES shooting at night?! It's sooooo much slower - I love it!
👉 Night Lightroom Preset I mentioned (if you want to save time): goo.gl/Qd8iFs
Subscribe & hit that 🔔(new video Mo&Thu)! 👉 bit.ly/PierreTLambert & 💥instagram.com/pierretlambert.
ps: music includes soundcloud.com/dogjames, soundcloud.com/randuski
Don't have any favorite to be honest! Up to your budget for weight :)
WOW incredible photos blown away and I’m excited to do this next! that’s my goal!
What a brilliant video - really enjoyed it!
My favorite photographer ❤️
Really good advice for night shots ! thx much...
Super helpful, subscribed!
You better use the 500 rule, divide 500 for the focal length at which you are taking the photo and that results in the time you should expose the photo. for example 500 / 16mm = 31.25 (maximum time you can expose without noticing the rotation of the earth) 500 / 50mm = 10 seconds
and so
I didn't know that, thank you
In Patrice Evra’s voice “ I LOVE THIS GUY”. Keep it coming Pierre
Hah thank you!!!! See you in the next episode ;)
this was awesome and really helpful Pierre we love you!!!!
BIG FAN!
Thank you my friend! :) Now you can try hehe!
Its so fun to shoot stars, but really challenging
Makes it even more fun! :)
gracias !!!!
good job
First timer with night photographer - video, GREAT help. Thank you soooooo much. Joseph
Nice video. Thanks
More night/astro photo tips please!!!
1:30 Your voice died for a second
Woops thanks!
What an amazing locaion. Thanks for sharing Pierre.
Thanks that was very helpful. Also the words you write under the video is very helpful to clarify what you have just shown.
Thanks :)
ps: new video is out! ua-cam.com/video/7yaFEFI5MGk/v-deo.html enjoy!!
Nice vid, great info about the reducing the back screen down.
Hey Paul!! Thanks a lot :)
Loving the tip on turning down the brightness of your screen! Thank you!
It Saved me!!!
ps: just dropped the new video! ua-cam.com/video/NIDP4g6s6U4/v-deo.html Enjoy :)
Good morning y'all
Hey later sometime, a detailed star edit video would be great! I'm headed to Colorado soon for some Milky Way shots while at the same time the Persaids will be happening! Love the tips!
Heya! Thank you!! Ok will do one after my next session :-)
Happy shooting!! Should be amazing!
I have never shot at night but this video got me motivated to do so. Wish me luck. I'm located in Nevada so i might head to death valley.
Salut Pierre,
Depuis quelques semaines je binge watch tes vidéos. Je me suis même inscrit à ta formation.
Cette vidéo est la plus utile que j'ai regardée.
Monter les ISO au max et ouvrir à fond pour rapidement voir ce qui est dans le cadre : c'est top. Tellement simple et tellement utile j'aurai du y penser !
Deuxème tips intéressant concerne la mise au point à l'infini. J'avais déjà entendu plusieurs fois qu'il suffisait de regarder son objectif et de la mettre à l'infini mais tous les objectifs ne l'ont pas comme le mien.
En revanche je viens d'essayer avec mon Canon 700D en live view et je n'ai pas de petite barre sur l'écran qui indique le focus...
Si quelqu'un connait le truc je suis preneur.
A bientôt
Fantastic video! Thank you 😊
I also love night photography and this was really helpful! Thanks for helping me. All the best x
You’re welcome!!
Thank you for all the advice photographing the Milky Way is what peak my interest in photography. P.S. I recommend a 12 gauge for shooting rattle snakes, lol.
Thanks for watching!
Nah rattle snakes are cool - they tell you don't come closer! They are super useful to balance the other animals :)
Yes!!!! I want a dedicated video for star photography editing. Please make this happen!
Ok I'll try this month! :)
Have a great day!
ps: new video is out! :) ua-cam.com/video/uP0Dt48TW7Q/v-deo.html
Thank you so much! I wish you a great day, too!! :)
I find that some lenses are not properly marked for infinity. So I "calibrate" infinity on the moon or something at great distance while there's still light. I use a small piece of white tape on the lens barrel and a black pen mark to indicate where the infinity mark should be for maximum sharpness.
But the moon isn't at infinity.
I love how your videos are like live photography. Great composition at around 7:00 lol. You've got a great, unique channel. Keep it up!
Thank you Vanessa! I’m glad you enjoy 😊
See you in the next episode;)
Thanks for the video and assistance with shooting at night...
Thank you for watching ;)
Another one: turn of Image Stabilization
Good point! :)
Ps: new video is out! ua-cam.com/video/csBDl85I69A/v-deo.html Enjoy!!
Wait I’m super new to photography and learning. I use image stabilization. What does turning it off actually change for me? (Ps. I believe you that it is better I’m just one of those people who like to understand what exactly it changes so I have a better understanding of it.) also sorry on commenting on such an old comment.
@@PlatyCast Hi Callsign! I hope this reply still reaches you.
Image stabilization is awesome and great in day to day shooting, but not when taking long exposures. What image stabilization does, is that is ''moves'' the lens or the sensor in order to get a stable image. Normally this will help you when taking photos or video, but when your camera is on a tripod you already know for sure that you don't need stabilization (since the frame is still). If you keep it on, the camera will sometimes still use the stabilization, thus moving your perfectly still frame. When taking a long exposure this can cause slight blurriness which can be seen in for example the stars.
I hope you understand, English is not my first language so I hope I was clear enough!
@@PlatyCast Also, don't forget to turn your stabilization on again after shooting the long exposures! ^^ If you have any more questions hit me up!
@@SoowDeJu that makes sooo much sense. I actually was doing some street photography yesterday and I kept getting blur in my long exposures even though they were on a tripod and I wasn’t touching the camera. I absolutely could not figure it out. It took me about an hour to get the shot I was looking for. I guarantee that was why my shots were blurry. Thank you so much!
thanks for these mad real tips!
i used to start of in nightphotography but havent done it in a million years!
thanks for sharing
Thanks man!! Get back out there ;)
Super vidéo, merci Pierre!
I have a question though. Wouldn't shooting with a very wide aperture make the focusing harder? Why isn't it better to shoot with F/16 for example?
If you have too long of a shutter speed, the stars will move and create light trails instead of fine points. Unless you have special equipment you won't be able to create a long enough exposure with a small aperture without the stars turning into lines.
Maybe somebody mentioned it in comments but to avoid star trails is something called 500 Rule basically you divide the focal length of your lens with 500.
For example, if you are shooting with a 50mm lens, your shutter speed would be 10 seconds (500 / 50 = 10) this applies if you have a Full Frame Camera but for Crop Sensors (Canon 1.6x,Nikon 1.5x Crop) you have to divide that also:
For example, with a 50mm lens it is 500 / 50 / 1.6 = 6 seconds (approximately).
+1 for the star editing video :)
Thanks Maxi! Will do :)
Finney awesome video about Star photography
Thank you Vratesh!!
I just dropped the new episode, ua-cam.com/video/rXOC7wgC0yw/v-deo.html enjoy :)
Pierre T. Lambert small subjection pleas make video about how to clean dslr sensor
Very nice video. The ideas given would be helpful.
Hey Jude! Thanks a lot my man!
Btw, new video is out!! ua-cam.com/video/G5XDESCBHzI/v-deo.html Enjoy!!
I just found you love your videos and energy.
Great video mate I love shooting Astro my latest video was shot at night with a lot of cloud cover I got lucky with a break in the clouds revealing a portion of the Milky Way love the results. Great tip about dialing down the monitor brightness 📷❤️ new sub for you cheers Paul
I Love your content, man. I also dig your camera + lens combo. I use MFT (G9 + 10-25mm f1.7) but suffer on the auto focus area.
notification bell, Dong🤷🏻♂️😂
Do to the high temperature in that or any dessert you won't find rattlesnakes during the day they do however come out in droves at night so be careful and always make lots of noise as you step so as to scare them off your direct path you wouldn't want to accidentally step on one
great, thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks Calvin!
U r really cool
I just discovered your channel! I’ve learned so much already!!
Oh really?! Welcome to the adventure then!!!! :)
Thanks for watching!
ps: new video is out, enjoy ;) ua-cam.com/video/QffXefaeR-k/v-deo.html
Very fun and useful to se your video, but do you not afraid of any dangeres animail on that montain by night? :-))
I just love watching your videos! Keep up the good work. I’m such a big fan. Let me know if your ever in the Florida area. Would love to take pictures with you 😊
Thanks Leanne! Will do ;)
Your welcome 😊😉
Love all your videos. Thanks for all the tips. Following on Instagram. Subscribed here. Aloha from Maui. Let me know when you head this way!
Waaaaaaaa....your teeth are sooooooooo cute And ur tips are very useful. Looking forward your more works .
Haha thanks!
New video is out enjoy! ua-cam.com/video/Gw9bBa2yc40/v-deo.html
Cracked voice at 1:33
I was gonna say the same thing
Yes please can you make a post editing video . Thanks, just started night photography thanks for the the tips
What if you are using APS-C without infinity on the lens?
Hi Pierre. Nice video again. Please show us your editing for the night skies. Thanks.
Will do! Thank you!!
Another great video. I'd appreciate a video on editing for sure. I use Luminar, but I'm sure many of the options are similar. Thanks again for putting these videos out.
Thanks James. How do you like Luminar?
So far, so good. I'm pretty new to such things. But, Adobe lost me with the whole subscription thing.
Okay! Much awaited video.. Great tips.. can we see an editing tutorial for this shots..?
See you on the next one!🙋😁
Thank you Abir!! Will try soon :-)
Pierre T. Lambert yass!
Great video!
Thank you Martin!!!
Thanks for the videos mate really amazing all of them. The Milky over the Opera House is stunning I am here in Sydney and it's hard to get obe of them any tip for light pollution or any tip to add. And which camera you used for that shot and lens thanks again great channel ahhh I am using a Nikon d700 a beast really heavy hehehe but amazing
Hi Pierre! Thanks for this great vid. I unfortunately do not live in such beautful places, or have the camera (I only use my iphone) and wonder what time is good to get out.
whoop new video!
Oh yeah!! You're first! Bam!
Great video Pierre. Having chased the N. Lights for a few evenings earlier this year and failed dismally with only the camera finding a hint of green, some great tips! Watch out for the rattle snakes, having played golf in that part of the world and being told not to go into the rough I got through a lot, and I mean A LOT, of golf balls ;-)
Thanks a lot!! Oh wow N lights = bucket list!! How was it in real? 🐍
Sadly it was only a short trip and the N Lights remain on the bucket list as only the camera saw a brief small appearance not visible to the naked eye ;-) We did get some very Icelandic weather of freezing rain and 85mph winds which made for a great experience.
Great to see the feature on Petapixel by the way.
This is perfect timing for me!:) here in Australia we will have the blood moon in 7hrs. Any's tips on shooting this amazing phenomenon would be greatly appreciated and promised to tag you in any shoots that make it to IG:) merci
Awesome!! Enjoy it man! The moon s very bright to use spot metering to expose correctly. télé lens also or you won see anything but a point. :) enjoy!!
Pierre, awesome video! One question, would you say the advice on lowering the brightness of the backscreen a good practice for normal shooting too? since you say that brightness would be the closest to how it would display on the computer? I've gotten fooled by that screen and struggled to get a good exposure. Thanks!!
Hey Toru ! I wouldn’t do it in daytime unless I consistently got wrong results... :)
@@Pierretlambert I see, thanks!! I try to trust the histogram as much as I can but whatever can help me get better results ;)
My camera got 1600 iso max would that be good?
Hi, I’m starting to get into night landscapes, with all the cameras out there, I’m a bit lost. Can I ask for your expert opinion about which body is best for this type of photography? Can you give an example in each of these brands, Canon, Sony and Nikon? Ideally Not over $3500. Many thanks. Happy 2020!
Does it matter where you are on the globe so long as you don't have light pollution? Whenever I've looked up to the night sky with my eyes, it's always been pitch black with white dots, no interesting galaxy stuff or anything like that, do I just have a bad patch of sky?
ISO 3200
F/2.8 or MIN
25 SEC exposure
Love shooting at night and learning as I go. Ranch outside Zion Utah and great views. Have you take a try of Affinity instead of Lightroom? Great program but a learning curb again, and on Mac. Let me now
Hey!! Oh great! That area is beautiful. I use Affinity designer - never tried the photo one. Is it good?
1:33 im 💀
Lmaoooooi
Hahah what can I do if it never gets dark when it’s summer here?😂 I’d love to see how you edit your photos, especially star photos and other night photography captures:)
Hahaha are you in Norway? :) winter is coming.... 😆
Pierre T. Lambert Close enough:) I live in Sweden and rn summer is crazy, no dark skies and we’ve had sun and 30 degrees celcius + every day for the past few weeks! I just wanna get aome dope shots of the stars now but It doesn’t seem possible to me bc of the no darkness conditions😂
Great video as usual! Shooting lunar eclipse tomorrow?
Heya Panpi! Won’t be too visible here. Are you shooting? :)
Hopefully, I've got a decent spot but the weather is so so for the moment... Finger crossed
Faces in the stones 8:24
what u eat...soo much energy in your shots...😂
Haha too many veggies!! :D
How do you get colour in your nights skies? My shots just look kind of black and white
Changing the white balance in post helps :)
Ya
for the photos with people in them, are you compositing photos together? How do you get clear pictures of people with such a long exposure?
Hold still! 😛
I think you mean the rule of 500 no ? For the star trail ? Don’t go over 500, for exemple 16mm*30sec shutter speed = 480 which is ok.
But if you do 16mm*35sec= 560 you will get a star trail. Sorry just saw the description now 😂
Hi Pierre very nice video but if I may I would like to add something regarding the on camera preview of the raw files. When you shoot raw although the camera will save the files as raw when you preview the file on the camera what you see is how it would be the file if it was saved by the camera as Jpg. This means that you don't see on the back of the camera how it will look on your computer as a raw file but how it would look as a processed (with added brightness, contrast, sharpening, etc.) Jpg file. You are right about the brightness of the screen especially for night photography should be dimmed to something like -2 in the settings of the camera but the preview would still show the Jpg. version of your image. Thank you for all your good work.
Hey George! you are totally right, it's a render you see on the back. The brightness of the JPG or the RAW is supposed to be the same however :)
See you in the next episode! Have a great weekend!
*so how many voice cracks are in this video?
: Yes
So maybe this is an obvious answer, but when you post an image with a subject that's closer to you (let's say an illuminated tree) with the night sky, do you take two pictures and make a composite so that the stars and the tree are in focus?
Heya! Thanks :-) usually my foreground subject is already in the “infinity” zone so sharp. Composing photos could work too :-)
Ps: just released the new video ua-cam.com/video/Uc4CetfP8vM/v-deo.html hope you enjoy!!!
@@Pierretlambert Thanks! From what I tried last time I shot stars, when I focused on the stars manually, the foreground wasn't in focus but when I focused on the foreground (which was quite far from me), the stars were in focus too. Weird!
Back screen brightness trick - Adjusting monitor brightness, per se, should not be confused with a similar “live view” control that goes by different names in different cameras. The feature (menu selectable, but different from absolute brightness) is whether or not the live view image takes exposure settings into account. Sony calls it “setting effect” (on or off). Olympus calls it “live view boost”. The “On” lets you compose, but if left on can mislead as to exposure outcomes. Check the manual, but you get the idea. (As an aside, in the Sony A6000 series, raise the built-in flash and with your finger tilt the flash head back to momentarily brighten the monitor to enable composition in dimly lit scenes- just an aside.). Rabbit stew, anyone 😉?
🐰 yes good point! Good tip for the a6000! It’s confusing to many in sure why their screens go brighter before a pic! Goo explanation Paul :)
See you in the next episode!
07:30 Man you confused me by the word backscreen it's backlight/brightness .😅
There is something I want to add, the sky looks better during winter and in cold places. Correct me if I'm wrong ;)
Heya! the drier it is the better! So it depends on the location :) Some places are ultra dry even in summer!
Have a great day :)
Something should be said about the different exposure times with full frame vs crop sensor. Longer exposure times with full frame cameras. Also exposure times with different focal lengths... The wider your lens is the longer the exposure time. The smaller the focal length you'll have to shoot with shorter exposure times so that you don't have star trails.
Hi!! Yes agreed for the focal length. If I’m not crazy I mentioned i was speaking for wide angles. The longer the focal length the longer the trail at the same exposure time. Thanks for pointing it out! :)
Bruh why didn't you make a tutorials on lightroom.. I need it very mch... Plizzz. ❤️
With the shutter speed of 25 seconds how do you take a picture of a person inside the frame? Do you take two exposures and blend them in Photoshop?
I stand still holding breath haha :)
Guruve namah
Pour les étoiles floues il faut diviser le nombre 500 par le nombre de millimètres de ma focale pour avoir le temps de pause en seconde maximum au dessus duquel mes étoiles vont commencer à s'étioler.
Par exemple avec un 24mm je ne peux pas dépasser les 20sec de temps de pause si je veux que mes étoiles soient parfaitement nettes.
Yes! :)
Ça dépend aussi de la resolution du capteur. Bonne règle à suivre pour debuter les tests!
Bonne journée!
Pierre T. Lambert
J'adore le contenu que tu crées c'est super inspirant ! Tu penses faire une vidéo sur Paris ou même Lyon ? Et sur le Noir et Blanc ?
Belle journée à toi aussi profite !
Yes video à Paris vers Septembre je pense. :)
Ptet même un petit workshop... à voir des gens m'ont demandé! Mon planning est encore un peu en l'air en ce moment!
N&B pourquoi pas en effet, ça fait longtemps que je n'en ai pas fait!
hey Pierre!! I really enjoyed this one! Thanks for the tips :) I have a question tho
is it possible to get something out of a f/3.5 aperture? I don't own a lens that can go f/2.8 :/
Hamadel Ndiaye I rent lenses from borrowlens.com . I shoot Canon and usually rent the Tokina 11-16mm which gives you a very wide field of view for great landscape shots. Plus it goes down to 2.8. I've used lenses that don't go down that far and have gotten great shots but you usually have to increase your ISO which might create a little more noise. I usually shoot at 1600iso, 15 second exposure at 2.8. And you must shoot in RAW to be able to bring out the details when you edit them. And i have a crop sensor camera. If you have a full frame camera then you can get longer exposure times.
Heya Hamadel! Yes of course. You might have to use a longer shutter speed or higher iso that’s all :)
Alright! Thanks :)
wait, what is the F again? is it frequency?
I might have an issue here: when I crank the ISO up to 3200 the images are noisey as hell! I don't have a wide angle lens that goes below F4.5 & my camera doesnt allow a shutterspeed longer than 30sec (Canon 7D). Any tips? :)
Great vid as always! I was in Utah not too long ago, but these issues kept me from shooting the stars regularly
Use a remote timer and try BULB mode (and time it), your camera has it! I put an example in the description I think.
Good luck :)
ps: New video is out, Enjoy!! ua-cam.com/video/3XJh5K4k6DA/v-deo.html
Im starting to see that a lot of people are shooting in very high ISOs and somehow editing the Noise out, But A good rule of thumb to follow with that is (Especially if you use Lightroom) Try to get rid of that noise by adjusting your exposure, Highlights, and shadows. When you have gotten ride of most of it that way and making sure your blacks are rich THEN use noise reduction. Using it up front make your Photo look too cartoony
NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY!
🌟
how you handle noise from high iso?
Noise reduction tools or you can event do stacking to reduce noise
Plz make a video of how you edit milky ways
Hey Tooba! Yes! Good idea :)
Thanks for watching! New episode is out, don't miss it! ua-cam.com/video/fLKDu0mgGoU/v-deo.html :)
I got a question, on a really dark place can you actually see the Milky Way by naked eye?
Yes :)
@@Pierretlambert Thanks man!
What if you can’t go to a location without light pollution?
I think it would be good if you mentioned or discussed the “500 rule” that helps with adjusting the stars to not trail.
Good idea!
ps: the film street photography challenge photos are here! Discover & Enjoy! ua-cam.com/video/kTb0yGhS8ro/v-deo.html
I LOVE night photography!
But I have a problem with my images being too noisy. I've spent several hours one night in Arches National Park, testing a huge range of ISO+Shutter Speed combinations, and no matter what I do, once I view them in Lightroom, they just look so gross.
I'm using an a6000, and have tried every setting within ISO100-1600, shutter speed 10-30 seconds, at f1.8. I just can't get a nice, clean image!
Heya!! Yes it’s hard. What you can do it shoot multiple photos like 7,10,15 and stack them to remove the noise. Softwares like star landscaper stacker can do it. Possible via PS too :)
Hey, thanks!
I have Starstax for combining images to make star trails, but I never thought of stacking to eliminate noise. Since I have such awful noise no matter what settings I use, I didn't think it would work. I'll have to try that... someday. Living in Los Angeles, I don't get opportunities to photograph the stars in the sky often.
my camera goes up to iso 25.000 can i use this to shoot???
depends on the cameras - try and see how it looks :)
Nice video, but not the milky way ist turning,
its the earth...
True! The Earth turns. Let's not forget that it depends in what referential system you observe. :)
I challenge you to use a 35mm film camera. There's no shooting a million photos till you get the right shot on film.