Interesting video, I too would like to see a more detail parts list, and dimensions of the box. Is your frame made from 1/2" x 3" x ? boards? How long are the LED strips? Do you think that by increasing from 60Watts to 70 Watts would cause you to lose less voltage? Thanks for your help.
Many thanks for the informative tutorial! What wavelength are the UV lights? Would I be right in thinking that's important when making cyanotypes? Furthermore, does wattage make a difference?
@@TPToE 365nm (or maybe even a little shorter wavelength) is ideal, but the sensitivity of a cyanotype extends to about 400nm or so. For any given power output, the exposure time will increase as he wavelength gets longer, but with this kind of power only a few cm from the print, it really doesn't matter. Some people have seen issues with highlights or the whole print washing out with longer wavelength lights (Nicole small, I believe her name is, has a video talking about that), but I've had good luck with a 400nm light, and projection (not contact prints) with my Casio laser DLP projector, which uses a 405nm laser for its blue source- pretty nifty stuff.
Thank you so much for the vid... Would you please tell me what is the best LED UV light can I find? I am doing photogravure with Polymer plate, and my exposure takes close to one hour (30' to screen exposure 30' to image exposure). I just want quality strong UV light, the lights I am working with now is Reptalica brand tube UV lights. I was surprised to see Dan Weldon (famous photogravure artist ) doing his exposures total of one min !!
Kris, could you share the specs and perhaps a link to the UV-LED strip you used for this build please? I understand it's been three years but I really need to know the UV- wave length of the strip you used. I bough a few of these al with 380-405 nm wavelength and my exposures are unbearably LONG.
Hi,. I got mine from Envirometal lights their model 5050 UV LED and the center Wave Length is 404. My exposure is never more than 10 minutes and usually between 5-8 minutes. I have them separated into two banks instead of one long series.
@@krisb8781 Thank you for the detailed reply. Perhaps I should reduce the distance between the sensitized paper and the UV-LED array without getting hot spots. Also, I don't think any of my LEDs are 5050 size.
@@overlycranked8674 hi. The optimal distance for 5050 ones is about 1.25 inches from the led and glass. This was calculated by someone way smarter than me. I just used their math. Also it could help to stagger the LEDs so that they are in sort of diamond pattern.
Hi, can you give us a list of materials (especially the LEDs) used? Did these come on strips which you attached to the bottom and soldered in lines? Thank You! R.
Hi, the LEDs are UV400-5050. I got mine many years ago from Enviromentallights.com I am sure you can find them somewhere else as well. they come in a roll. I cut mine to size and soldered the jumper cables. If the strip was not long enough you solder them together. Power supply is Amazon Chanzon 12V 5A 60W AC DC Power Supply Adapter. Lastly, the substrate is Garolite sheet from McMaster their number MCMASTER 8667K32 they come in 36x48 sheets so that will make you at least 4 16x20 sheets. Wood for frame from Homedepot.
Hi. I love it and it works great. Average cyanotype exposure is 6 minutes. Salt print could go up to 10 depending on what i want but averages around 6-7 minutes.
Hi. There is very little heat being emitted during the 5-10 minutes exposure. My previous unit simply utilized a piece of Plexi vs heat resistant material. Besides, whatever heat is produced, it's projected upward so the panel doesn't get hot.
Interesting video, I too would like to see a more detail parts list, and dimensions of the box. Is your frame made from 1/2" x 3" x ? boards? How long are the LED strips? Do you think that by increasing from 60Watts to 70 Watts would cause you to lose less voltage? Thanks for your help.
Many thanks for the informative tutorial! What wavelength are the UV lights? Would I be right in thinking that's important when making cyanotypes? Furthermore, does wattage make a difference?
Hi the wavelength is around 380 -420 nm. Wattage is around 50 watts
@@krisb8781 I'd heard that UV lights that weren't a 365NM wavelength wouldn't expose properly with Cyanotypes, so that's got me really confused!
@@TPToE 365nm (or maybe even a little shorter wavelength) is ideal, but the sensitivity of a cyanotype extends to about 400nm or so.
For any given power output, the exposure time will increase as he wavelength gets longer, but with this kind of power only a few cm from the print, it really doesn't matter.
Some people have seen issues with highlights or the whole print washing out with longer wavelength lights (Nicole small, I believe her name is, has a video talking about that), but I've had good luck with a 400nm light, and projection (not contact prints) with my Casio laser DLP projector, which uses a 405nm laser for its blue source- pretty nifty stuff.
Thank you so much for the vid... Would you please tell me what is the best LED UV light can I find? I am doing photogravure with Polymer plate, and my exposure takes close to one hour (30' to screen exposure 30' to image exposure). I just want quality strong UV light, the lights I am working with now is Reptalica brand tube UV lights. I was surprised to see Dan Weldon (famous photogravure artist ) doing his exposures total of one min !!
Kris, could you share the specs and perhaps a link to the UV-LED strip you used for this build please? I understand it's been three years but I really need to know the UV- wave length of the strip you used. I bough a few of these al with 380-405 nm wavelength and my exposures are unbearably LONG.
Hi,. I got mine from Envirometal lights their model 5050 UV LED and the center Wave Length is 404. My exposure is never more than 10 minutes and usually between 5-8 minutes. I have them separated into two banks instead of one long series.
@@krisb8781 Thank you for the detailed reply. Perhaps I should reduce the distance between the sensitized paper and the UV-LED array without getting hot spots. Also, I don't think any of my LEDs are 5050 size.
@@overlycranked8674 hi. The optimal distance for 5050 ones is about 1.25 inches from the led and glass. This was calculated by someone way smarter than me. I just used their math. Also it could help to stagger the LEDs so that they are in sort of diamond pattern.
Hi, can you give us a list of materials (especially the LEDs) used? Did these come on strips which you attached to the bottom and soldered in lines? Thank You! R.
Hi, the LEDs are UV400-5050. I got mine many years ago from Enviromentallights.com I am sure you can find them somewhere else as well. they come in a roll. I cut mine to size and soldered the jumper cables. If the strip was not long enough you solder them together. Power supply is Amazon Chanzon 12V 5A 60W AC DC Power Supply Adapter. Lastly, the substrate is Garolite sheet from McMaster their number MCMASTER 8667K32 they come in 36x48 sheets so that will make you at least 4 16x20 sheets. Wood for frame from Homedepot.
What web site did you buy that big print holder box you are holding at the end of your video???
Hi i got the contact printing frame from Adorama
What can you say after two years of this led lighting? did some of the leds burn? it's efficient? how long it takes for a cyanotype? Thank You!!
Hi. I love it and it works great. Average cyanotype exposure is 6 minutes. Salt print could go up to 10 depending on what i want but averages around 6-7 minutes.
How much heat does the box emit? Do you think the heat-resistant substrate is necessary at the bottom?
Hi. There is very little heat being emitted during the 5-10 minutes exposure. My previous unit simply utilized a piece of Plexi vs heat resistant material. Besides, whatever heat is produced, it's projected upward so the panel doesn't get hot.
Video is too jerky to see what's there! Seems like a good idea though.