Thank you so much for this vid! Great info! I'm going to make one for evenings and cloudy days....For the record, its sunny and 9 degrees F and I'm "cooking" cyanotypes. ;)
Thanks so much for comments. I plan to print out 35mm negative scan and print it onto a transparency just to make a cyanotype. Good luck on your endeavour let me know on Insta when got it done.
I know this is an old post, so there may not be an answer to my question. Yours is a kit; e.g., it comes with the correct power supplies for each 5-metre length of LED. I am working with just 5 metres of this LED and have to find the correct power supply. Looking at making a larger box using double the number of LEDs you have used, I'm not sure, but I think I might be looking at requiring four 60-watt-capable power supplies. Perhaps one 60W 12V 5A LED Power Supply is enough for 20 metres of this specification LED, e.g., 4 x 5m 5050 60 12V UV. The stuff I'm using is IP65, not that it's going to be used outside. It's just that a power supply alone is going to cost $100 New Zealand dollars; it would be good if I didn't have to buy four of them. lol
Thanks for your comment. Sorry for the late reply. I would suggest using a halogen 12V trafo they're cheap enough. Something like this one amzn.to/42SRoPj
Hi Luca, UV 395mm-405nm Wavelength LED is what I'm using for last couple years, these are ones I purchased in 2019. Hope that helps. I haven't tried 365nm ones
Hi Gavin, I came across a second video on how to make a UV light box that was linked to you. Both videos show almost exactly the same technique that you used, so well done. I did notice though that the price for the UV lights here in France is almost double what you paid.. Did not get back to Dublin in April because of Covid, but hope to next year to holograph the south of Dublin coast, Blackrock to Kiliney bay. Best wishes for the new year, Phillip.
Hi Gavin, finally put my UV printer together. Just used one 5M length of UV Led's, suits my 4X5 or 8X10 negatives. Got a simple Digital timer and it works great. Did have a hiccup though. I lined my plywood board with aluminum tape, to absorb the heat generated and reflect the excess light, but had a few short circuits at one end where the strips were cut. Ended up using clear sellotape under the end joints to insulate the ends from the aluminium tape. First results are great with amazing tonal range. Many thanks for the video.
Love this video! Your voice is so relaxing so listen too! Thanks so much for the in-depth video, been looking for something like this for so long! Would this be difficult for me to make? ✨💓
Here's what happens to me, I have built a UV led box with two strips (SMD 5050), you say that your exposure is about 5 minutes but in my case I need around 15 minutes. I bought the same size box and 14.4W/m power as you. I don't know why I need more than twice as long as you.
Hi Shaun, Thanks for your question, usually they're included in the kits on Amazon. Links in the description. Looking forward to seeing your Cyanotypes.
Hi Gavin love this video thank you so much for posting it up its extremely helpful. I am about to embark on a project with young people with mental health difficulties and i intend to do Cyanotypes with them and would love to build one of these boxes. I cant solder or at least havent tried so not confident and saw your message below about connectors for the led strips so any pointers would be appreciated. I clicked on the link and i am just wondering the exact LEDs you bought were your LEDs IP30 or IP60?.. I hope you have time to answer and keep up the great work :)
Hi Twinvision, Thank you for your kind comments. The IP rating is for outdoor use, for water resistant etc.. So for Cyanotype you want no protection. Basically the strip and LEDs. The most important thing is the wavelength of light. The connectors come in a number of pin sizes so you'll need to choose the ones that match to your strip. Probably two pins.
Hi Gavin! thank you deeply for this video. I got a 6W black light bulb. But it seems that it does not work, images just fade out. Would you recommen a Watt number in specific? Thank you!
Hi there, It's not the power that counts it's more the wavelength of light which is important. have a look at the blog post which I have more information about the build?
@@GavinLyonsCreates Will have a read definetly, your prints are very detailed and the whites are perfect! I still get yellow on my whites :( even using peroxide thank you🙏🏼
@@GavinLyonsCreates thank you. There are a few UV lights out there, I just want to make sure I buy the right one for the job. I think the light I have right now will do the job 👍😀
Hi Gavin, do you know the wavelength of your UV strips? I've heard cyanotypes required a wavelength of 365NM, but this is quite difficult to find, with most UV sources being 395-405nm. Also, would wattage make a difference?
Hi Max, Thank you for commemt.The wavelength 395-405 is what I used in this project. My more wattage or lumens will produce shorter exposure times. However I wouldn't go stronger than what I have in the video. Especially if you want to control the tonality.
@@GavinLyonsCreates Many thanks for your reply! My concerns were raised by this video, which attributed the failure to expose to the UV lamp's high wavelength: ua-cam.com/video/E6rnpF61CKY/v-deo.html&t Clearly that's not the whole story given that your lightbox works perfectly. Do you have any theories as to what might have caused the problems there?
Hi there, thank you for your comment. The paper I'm using is Daler & Rowney Acrylic Paper System 3. amzn.to/3T78J2C I print on a inkjet printer with the setting at high quality. Nothing too special, a HP 5300 series. Hope that helps! Gavin
Hi Gavin, thx for this guide ! (You won a sub !) Are you sure that 5050 leds are brighter than 2835 ? Don't you mean 3528 LEDs ? Im a bit confused... Thx in advance
Hi Saint Patoche, Thank you for your comments much appreciated. I'm using the 5050 they work a treat and are very power. Never tried the 2835 or 3528. I believe the 5050 are more powerful. I used two reels, but you can get away with one just double time. Just buy the correct wavelength and the non-outdoor version. More info on the blog post - gavinlyons.photography/uv-led-box/ Best, Gavin
I was confused by a video that I saw, that they used LEDs with a wave of frequency 365nm ... they said it was adequate. but apparently 395 - 405 nm works fine.
Hi Castañeda, Thank you for your comments :-) It's all UV light, 395-405 is more common and 5 minutes exposure is manageable if you wish to control the tonality when its stronger and more intense its may not be practical for alternate photography. (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet#Ultraviolet_LEDs) Hope that helps :-)
Hi Dan, I use standard electrical connector blocks nothing too special. There probably 2-3mm connectors. As long as all cable fit in, it's enough. There isnt too much current flowing anyway.
@@GavinLyonsCreates what wavelength Gavin. I have a vey basic set up in a wardrobe using a 10w floodlight but can take an hour or more to expose. i like your set up but not sure i could do the wiring.
@@reubennoel 395nm to 405nm is the right wavelength. I've not tried with a UV floodlamp. What I would imagine is important is even and uniform light spread. If you dont wish to solder I believe there are connectors you could use. I hope that helps.
@@reubennoel If you don't have a box, you can use an old suit case Preferably a hard shell, something you can pick up secondhand. (Its kind of an idea for another video - 'a suitcase full of blues' - mobile cyanotype!)
Hey, I've just built a very similar exposure box but all my prints are super blurry, I don't understand what's going on (never had this issue before with the sun nor with my small face tanning light I use to expose cyanotype) . Do you have any clue why? Any help would be much appreciated :) thanks!
Hi Sabrina, That's so strange, mmh, Is the contact negative flat against the paper ?, I use a heavy piece of plate glass, 0.4 cm thick to keep the things held down. However far away is the LED lights to the paper ? and how far apart are the LED strips ? Also you weren't using the outside UV version of the LED strips btw ?
Cheers Gavin, you've just added a lovely ray of sunlight to my now dark evening
I'm delighted to hear. Thank you!
Making this as soon as I find a good box
You can always use a secondhand hardshell suitcase too. So you can make it portable. Just an idea!
@@GavinLyonsCreates good idea.
Thank you so much for this vid! Great info! I'm going to make one for evenings and cloudy days....For the record, its sunny and 9 degrees F and I'm "cooking" cyanotypes. ;)
Thanks so much for comments. I plan to print out 35mm negative scan and print it onto a transparency just to make a cyanotype. Good luck on your endeavour let me know on Insta when got it done.
So glad you like the video. You are welcome :-)
@@GavinLyonsCreates No problem! Will do. my insta @jimialbert
I know this is an old post, so there may not be an answer to my question. Yours is a kit; e.g., it comes with the correct power supplies for each 5-metre length of LED. I am working with just 5 metres of this LED and have to find the correct power supply. Looking at making a larger box using double the number of LEDs you have used, I'm not sure, but I think I might be looking at requiring four 60-watt-capable power supplies. Perhaps one 60W 12V 5A LED Power Supply is enough for 20 metres of this specification LED, e.g., 4 x 5m 5050 60 12V UV. The stuff I'm using is IP65, not that it's going to be used outside. It's just that a power supply alone is going to cost $100 New Zealand dollars; it would be good if I didn't have to buy four of them. lol
Thanks for your comment. Sorry for the late reply. I would suggest using a halogen 12V trafo they're cheap enough. Something like this one amzn.to/42SRoPj
Brilliant! Thank you!
You're very welcome! Gavin
The link to the strip remand to a 395 nm led strip, don't we need a 365 nm for Cyanotypes?
Hi Luca, UV 395mm-405nm Wavelength LED is what I'm using for last couple years, these are ones I purchased in 2019. Hope that helps. I haven't tried 365nm ones
Hi Gavin, I came across a second video on how to make a UV light box that was linked to you. Both videos show almost exactly the same technique that you used, so well done. I did notice though that the price for the UV lights here in France is almost double what you paid.. Did not get back to Dublin in April because of Covid, but hope to next year to holograph the south of Dublin coast, Blackrock to Kiliney bay. Best wishes for the new year, Phillip.
Thank you for your comments. Shonna Nollaig btw I hope to do some more alternative prints very soon myself. Let me know if you make the box.
Hi Gavin, finally put my UV printer together. Just used one 5M length of UV Led's, suits my 4X5 or 8X10 negatives. Got a simple Digital timer and it works great. Did have a hiccup though. I lined my plywood board with aluminum tape, to absorb the heat generated and reflect the excess light, but had a few short circuits at one end where the strips were cut. Ended up using clear sellotape under the end joints to insulate the ends from the aluminium tape. First results are great with amazing tonal range. Many thanks for the video.
@@phillipP8848 Steller! awesome stuff do send us a pic on IG @glyons As I'm going to make an updated version to this video at some point. Thanks!
@@GavinLyonsCreates no problem, will send pics.
thank you very much for this tutorial! I found a box of the same size, but deeper, with experience what do you think would be the best depth?
It shouldn't make much of a difference but you should test it with times for 3,4,5,6 minutes to see which gives you the best print
Thank you v much!!
You're welcome!
Love this video! Your voice is so relaxing so listen too! Thanks so much for the in-depth video, been looking for something like this for so long! Would this be difficult for me to make? ✨💓
it's easy enough. If you can't solder there even connectors you can clip together. Thank you for you kind commemts too.
hello, does the box need to be a dark colour or it can also be white ? thank you
Ciao Vincenzo, Grazi per tuoi demanda, lo stesso, gli scatola bianca. It shouldn't make any different. Hope my Italian makes sense :-)
Grazie per la tua risposta, your answer does make some sense but needs a little fixing haha :)
Ich danke dir
Here's what happens to me, I have built a UV led box with two strips (SMD 5050), you say that your exposure is about 5 minutes but in my case I need around 15 minutes. I bought the same size box and 14.4W/m power as you. I don't know why I need more than twice as long as you.
Hi Gavin, does your LED kit include an AC to DC converter? Best, Shaun
Hi Shaun, Thanks for your question, usually they're included in the kits on Amazon. Links in the description. Looking forward to seeing your Cyanotypes.
Hi Gavin love this video thank you so much for posting it up its extremely helpful. I am about to embark on a project with young people with mental health difficulties and i intend to do Cyanotypes with them and would love to build one of these boxes. I cant solder or at least havent tried so not confident and saw your message below about connectors for the led strips so any pointers would be appreciated. I clicked on the link and i am just wondering the exact LEDs you bought were your LEDs IP30 or IP60?.. I hope you have time to answer and keep up the great work :)
Hi Twinvision, Thank you for your kind comments. The IP rating is for outdoor use, for water resistant etc.. So for Cyanotype you want no protection. Basically the strip and LEDs. The most important thing is the wavelength of light. The connectors come in a number of pin sizes so you'll need to choose the ones that match to your strip. Probably two pins.
@@GavinLyonsCreates thank you so much for taking the time to reply it is very much appreciated indeed thank you
Good video!!! I am trying to show other alternative processes in my own UA-cam channel.
Thank you! There also VanDyke Brown process too. m.ua-cam.com/video/EeLvZP1rFHo/v-deo.html
Does anyone know the equivalent of the box with lid in the United States? And where it can be purchased?
You always use an old hard shell suitcase if you can find one in a flee market.
Hi Gavin! thank you deeply for this video. I got a 6W black light bulb. But it seems that it does not work, images just fade out. Would you recommen a Watt number in specific? Thank you!
Hi there, It's not the power that counts it's more the wavelength of light which is important. have a look at the blog post which I have more information about the build?
@@GavinLyonsCreates Will have a read definetly, your prints are very detailed and the whites are perfect! I still get yellow on my whites :( even using peroxide
thank you🙏🏼
@@gcwalther oh, if you're getting details and still getting yellows, you may not be washing long enough.
With the UV strips are they UVA or UVB? I have a few UVA lights already if they do work for developing Cyanotypes.
UV 395mm-405nm Wavelength is where the magic happens for Cyanotype :-) gavinlyons.photography/uv-led-box/ Hope that helps
@@GavinLyonsCreates thank you. There are a few UV lights out there, I just want to make sure I buy the right one for the job. I think the light I have right now will do the job 👍😀
Super helpful video, thank you! How deep is the box? (In other words, how far away are the lights from the paper/negative?) Thanks again for the info!
Hi Susie, Thank you for your kind comments. The distance is approximately 10-12cm
Hi Gavin, do you know the wavelength of your UV strips? I've heard cyanotypes required a wavelength of 365NM, but this is quite difficult to find, with most UV sources being 395-405nm. Also, would wattage make a difference?
Hi Max, Thank you for commemt.The wavelength 395-405 is what I used in this project. My more wattage or lumens will produce shorter exposure times. However I wouldn't go stronger than what I have in the video. Especially if you want to control the tonality.
@@GavinLyonsCreates Many thanks for your reply! My concerns were raised by this video, which attributed the failure to expose to the UV lamp's high wavelength:
ua-cam.com/video/E6rnpF61CKY/v-deo.html&t
Clearly that's not the whole story given that your lightbox works perfectly. Do you have any theories as to what might have caused the problems there?
The images have so much detail and are so sharp, I'm curious what paper you use and what printer you used to make the negatives?
Hi there, thank you for your comment. The paper I'm using is Daler & Rowney Acrylic Paper System 3.
amzn.to/3T78J2C
I print on a inkjet printer with the setting at high quality. Nothing too special, a HP 5300 series. Hope that helps! Gavin
Hi Gavin, thx for this guide ! (You won a sub !)
Are you sure that 5050 leds are brighter than 2835 ? Don't you mean 3528 LEDs ? Im a bit confused...
Thx in advance
Hi Saint Patoche,
Thank you for your comments much appreciated. I'm using the 5050 they work a treat and are very power. Never tried the 2835 or 3528. I believe the 5050 are more powerful. I used two reels, but you can get away with one just double time.
Just buy the correct wavelength and the non-outdoor version.
More info on the blog post -
gavinlyons.photography/uv-led-box/
Best,
Gavin
I just bought 2835 led strips 10 m before I found your instructions. Gotta try and then switch to 5050 LEDs if 2835 LEDs don't work
2835 leds work well
I was confused by a video that I saw, that they used LEDs with a wave of frequency 365nm ... they said it was adequate. but apparently 395 - 405 nm works fine.
Hi Castañeda, Thank you for your comments :-) It's all UV light, 395-405 is more common and 5 minutes exposure is manageable if you wish to control the tonality when its stronger and more intense its may not be practical for alternate photography. (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet#Ultraviolet_LEDs) Hope that helps :-)
Thanks so much for sharing this. I am really struggling to find a suitable box. Where did you get yours? Thanks
Hi Caroline, You can use a hardshell suitcase from a flee market. This works as there's no much heat coming out from the LED.
Do you have a description (or part source/number) for your connector blocks? Thx!
Hi Dan, I use standard electrical connector blocks nothing too special. There probably 2-3mm connectors. As long as all cable fit in, it's enough. There isnt too much current flowing anyway.
So it's a usual led strip from ebay? Or is it a specific one for the uv purposes
Very specific UV light, the wavelength is what matter and power output the most.
@@GavinLyonsCreates what wavelength Gavin. I have a vey basic set up in a wardrobe using a 10w floodlight but can take an hour or more to expose. i like your set up but not sure i could do the wiring.
@@reubennoel 395nm to 405nm is the right wavelength. I've not tried with a UV floodlamp. What I would imagine is important is even and uniform light spread. If you dont wish to solder I believe there are connectors you could use. I hope that helps.
@@GavinLyonsCreates Thanks. I've sourced the light strips and will give it a go
@@reubennoel If you don't have a box, you can use an old suit case Preferably a hard shell, something you can pick up secondhand. (Its kind of an idea for another video - 'a suitcase full of blues' - mobile cyanotype!)
What printer you use for your negative?
Hp 5500 series Inkjet, really any inkjet will do. Of course you can use a high end inkjet too.
@@GavinLyonsCreates aren't you supposed to use laser printers?
von welcher firma sind die LED´s. Wäre es möglich einen link zu amazon oder co zu posten? lieben Dank.
Hi Dennis, Danke fuer Ihren Kommentar. Ich habe jetzt einen Link in der Beschreibung hinzugefuegt Mfg, Gavin
Hey, I've just built a very similar exposure box but all my prints are super blurry, I don't understand what's going on (never had this issue before with the sun nor with my small face tanning light I use to expose cyanotype) . Do you have any clue why? Any help would be much appreciated :) thanks!
Hi Sabrina,
That's so strange, mmh, Is the contact negative flat against the paper ?, I use a heavy piece of plate glass, 0.4 cm thick to keep the things held down. However far away is the LED lights to the paper ? and how far apart are the LED strips ? Also you weren't using the outside UV version of the LED strips btw ?
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