This is awesome my man, here I am at the end of 2022, I am going to do this for myself instead of expensive programming power supplies, thank you so much.
Thank you for sharing the video! I built about a year ago one of these (with a different power supply model, all is needed in all models is to locate the OVP and disable it) and I did many hours of programming without any issues). That saves us hundred of 💰💰💰
I've found online HP DPS-1200FB-1. Will it same as in the video? There are also 1400w ~= 117Amp output but don't know how to increase OVP and output voltage toe 14.5 Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks again for posting the video, was great help. One thing worth adding just in case others come across same issue. Using a jumper wire 33&36 worked for me on the bench, but the PSU would shut down when connected to the car. I found another post somewhere else that said the best way would be to use 22k resister between 36&37, then 33 to ground turns it on (could use a switch here). This worked perfectly for me. Cheers
Thanks for the comment and your contribution. I'm sure it will help people to solve the problems with shutting off. I just shorted the pins and worked for me.
Im having the same issue, can run the psu on the bench with no problem running over 50amps but the second i connecte to car it shuts down. I tried the stated above 22k resistor between 36 & 37 with a switch between 33 & ground but still shuts down. Any help on this would be great. Using the same psu in the video and I have a 75k resistor on the ovp and 15k on the voltage pot.
@@jwilk1704 So PSU is connected to the main, then connected to the car with switch in off position. After connecting to the car you then toggle the switch. This worked for me. It shuts down if connected to the car whilst switch was on. Give this a go?
Really good job. Thank you for great explanation and additional comments for 75K instead of 100k and 15K instead of 22k. This save a long time of tests from my side.
Looks very impressive, I will try this set up. Did you solder the cables to PSU or screwed them? Also how loud is the fan on PSU when on full load? Thanks a lot for a very informative video :)
Thanks for your comment, I'm glad you find the video useful. First, I drilled holes on voltage outputs on circuit, then used copper connectors and screwed them on to the circuit board, then did some soldering around them. Second, I didn't notice any fan noise under load, at least it wasn't disturbing by any means, so I'd say it's like a pc fan noise under load👌
Works like a charm. I owe you a serious debt of gratitude for sharing your video, idea, and knowledge for doing this my guy. Thank you!!!! Having fun copying your build was an unexpected bonus...
Well, I was quite curious about that dongle and couldn't really find much info on the web, so I had to buy one and try 😀 It's exactly same as original icom, price was very good (£140), very small device compared to icom and it can connect via cable and wifi. I tried all It's features and worked just fine. I programmed a new ecu on both E-SYS and ista D on my friends car, also carried out i-level software update. All works fine. However, most frustrating part was to solve some software issues as there's not enough tech support on the web. My dongle got broken somehow after 6 months and company arranged a teamviewer session to diagnose the problem and offered a repair, so I had to send it all the way to China. All correspondence and process took a few weeks to solve. On the other hand, when you buy an icom, you get no warranty or tech support as bmw doesn't sell it directly to individuals. The ones who sell online claim that they give you warranty and support but I wouldn't take it seriously. All in all, even the vcx dongle gets broken or stolen, it is very cheap to obtain, so that's why I prefer and use it.
Hello, thank you don't worry, I am an electronic technician. With four resistence and the Lm 358 I have gived the current control to the power supply. Bye
First, thank you! I have similar modding experience with ATX PSUs and "wall warts". Some questions for you: 1. What are the pin assignment of pins 33 & 36? I ask because on E90 Post("DIY - Server Power Supply for Coding" thread) in which a DIYer who referenced your video, claims that a 22k resistor between pins 36 & 37(ground), then shorting(switching) between pins 33 and ground(to turn ON) is better since pins 33 and 36 are "wired to weak pull-up or pull-down circuits, so essentially you're fighting between them." ... "Pin 36 is wired to a pull-down resistor, which means it isn't true ground. The PSU isn't connected to a real server socket, so the board won't fight you in trying to pull up the connection." Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated. 2. Can you confirm if the 75k resistor lowers the voltage sensed by the OVP(Over Voltage Protection) circuit IC? 3. Can you confirm that the 15k resistor increases the overall resistance of the "R1" resistor in a 'voltage divider'(or low pass RC filter) to trick the PSU into sensing a lower voltage than the actual output voltage? 4. There is a very cool mod video of a slightly different but similar model DPS-800GB in which the gent lifts the OVP circuit's sense pin, then attaches various resistors (including a 2k variable resistor @ 09:50 into the video) between pin 32 and ground to achieve a similar result of raising the output voltage. Is this possible because pin 32 at least in this different model is associated with a 'voltage divider' connected to voltage regulation or is this related to an entirely different concept/function? Do you think this would work with the DPS-1200FB? ua-cam.com/video/9--g63ew9HU/v-deo.html Thanks and cheers!
Thank you so much, I used this video to build my own Power Supply for programing and coding my F11, for my build I used two HP Server PSU. works perfect. A must have. Thanks again!
You're very welcome 👍 I'm glad I've been helpful to you and your set up works fine. To be honest, even a single psu is working fine, I tried it several times. Of course double is better 😄. All the best 👍
@@thesmartguy3523 I am not sure if this can happen with this specific build. I have been using my dual parallel Power Supply rig for over a year now on my f11, I was also relucent to connect it to the car the first time but after seeing a few posts with these builds I decided to go for it. I have had no issues thus far and have had it connected to the car for long periods while coding and programming, I believe the longest I have had it connected is a little over three hours. My output voltage is 14.6. I have never measured that output amperage. I paid $23 for each power supply.
the official regulator should protect the airbag modules and stuff too, but as this one did not blow them up either, then is it possible for an average tech user to build the same thing and how much it gonna cost in total ?
Nice job! What was your source for the resistor values? I'm planning to do this, but I would prefer 13.6 V, rather than 14.4 V, which is for charging, not coding or programming. Once the battery is charged, the voltage should be maintained at 13.6 V. I'm interested to know if the source you used mentioned the resistor values for 13.6 V. Thanks.
any ideea if hstns pl11 could be modded the same way ....beacuse my supplier sent me pl11 not pd11 and i can t send it back any advice would be very helpful
Can you connect this power supply to the car with the battery installed or does it need to be disconnected first? I would like to use this to power my car stereo for long periods of time without draining the battery
Nice video but one point, the current you are measuring with two power supplies is still the final current draw of the car, you are not seeing less current because they are sharing current, its the current going to the car from both combined, if you have wired as you show in your diagram.
Hi, thanks for your comment. You're 100% correct👍 I think i made a mistake in wording there. Not easy to stay calm and not get nervous when working on complicated electronics while recording and editing. Take care🖐
I'm confused, why do you need a mains PSU to program a car instead of just running it off the car battery? Btw. keep in mind those were designed to last but with normal operating voltage of 12V, going above is reducing its life span, also in server config they run two of them and max system load is equivalent to less than max load of one PSU, so at worst each PSU is running less than 50%, its so that if one PSU fails the entire system can be ran with the other one.
Good job Aaron. At about 10:20 in the video, you said that you didn’t feel the amperage was correct on the display. You stated that you changed the display to rectify the problem. To clarify...you swapped out the display with another because the first was faulty, or there was a setting/adjustment you made to the original display? Thank you, and keep up the good work!
Hi Brad, these little eBay displays are very cheap and can be unreliable, so knowing that I ordered a few of them in the first place and replaced the display for the second test. I could spend time calibrating it as they have pots on them but didn't have time for it at that moment.
I have a question. Hacking using 75kohm 15kohm. ** Use pin 33/36 wires to install or power off short or 1k resistance connections. I'm going to make a short circuit DC Voltage/Ammeter Connections Can I use it like this? Red switch? Nozzle? The same parts are connected I'm curious about the purpose of the part. Can I make it without the part being installed?
Hello, Thank you very much for your detailed video instruction. I've made a power supply according to your instructions, everything works! I wish you a happy new year !!! 🤝✌
Awesome work, thanks for sharing! I wonder, have you tried this with PD19 model? If so, i would love to know your resistor values. So far, ive been unable to run it stable without OVP / failsafe kicking in.
hello sir, thanks for your details instructions .... are you 100% sure the diagram connecting the display to the PSU is accurate? I am showing 0.0A amps reading even when on load
Great video mate, thanks a lot . If I make only one pd 11, is it going to be enough for programming f15 with enet cable? Is it possible at all programming with enet cable, or I have to have an Icom or the one you have ?
Thank you 👍 unfortunately enet cable is not capable for coding/programming on ista, however it works just fine on e-sys which is a bit more complicated to learn. Another option for ista is an icom or an equivalent device just like I have.
@@bmwsolutions7880 Thanks alot for the quick answer , mister. So is possible to use the enet cable for programming with esys, no problem. That's good news , bacause I want to update the modules one by one , and this is possible only with esys. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, have a nice day ?
You're very welcome 👍 that's exactly right, you can update or replace any ecu using e-sys with an enet cable. It allows you to work on a single ecu coding/update/programming or all modules at the same time. Have a great one 👋
Very helpful video! I'm going to try the same with version 1 PD11. I have not soldered the circuit board. Would you or any soldering guru here please share what exact soldering iron, soldering tip size, and soldering wire size, etc. I should use? Also, a close picture of the finished soldering of the 2 resistors would be very nice, too so we know exactly where to solder to. Thank you.
Thanks for your comment. You can buy a cheap soldering iron that comes with several size tips and a thin lead free soldering wire should be enough. None of the tools are special in this video, that's the purpose. (For ex; Little black box that holds the volt/amp meter and temp gauge is an empty cream cheese box). I also recommended you to watch the video on a big screen as it helps with circuit board connection points. Good luck and take extra care with your diy.
Hi. Thank you very much for video. It is 2 years after and I wish you are well and healthy. I bought all the parts and started building but unfortunately in a moment it started working and then stopped. Tried different combinations of resistors but no luck, sometimes it worked well and then stopped. I have the version 2 in your video from minute 3:14 . It was really difficult to solder the 75k resistor but after some tests I found that the soldering point is directly connected to the white connector and there is much easier to solder. Do you have any suggestions on how to make it work? Thanks again
Thank you for sharing. This approach looks great. I have a concern on the difference in voltage when you first connect this power supply to the car battery. Please can you clarify if this would be an issue? I see other comment about fully charge the battery first but there will be a difference anyway.
hi, i made follow your video but on resistor 75k and 15k won't turn on, only works on 110k and 22k and it give only 13.75v and i want 14.2-14.4v to use on bmw programming.. you know what's wrong on it?, my psu has the same model of psu like on your video..
It appears that using pin 34 to bridge the power supplies as designed....that it wasnt necessary to have one power supply with a "floating ground". Did you alter the ground on any power supply??
Happy to hear that you completed your setup. Just to let you know that these are continuous power sources not battery chargers, so they won't charge your car battery. Also before you start coding session, always make sure to charge your car battery using an ordinary charger, then make psu connections to start programming session.
You're welcome, I'm glad you find it useful. If you're referring to the voltage adjustment, go to 3.34 in the video. Look at the pic I showed with 15k resistor attached to a small round thing, it is the voltage potentiometer. Make sure you use a plastic pick tool to be safe when changing the voltage.
@@bmwsolutions7880 thanks, for 14.4v, what resistors should I use? 110k or 75v and 22k or 15k. I have another question, by adding a resistor will the voltage increase automatically to 14.2v.
I think you need to watch the video carefully, paying more attention to details. All the answers are already in the video and comments. Ps. Adding a resistor doesn't automatically increase the voltage, you still need to use potentiometer to adjust it.
Great video.. Can I ask how did you attach the 4AWG (25mm2) cable to the PSU itself? I've got some 16mm2 meter tails (that was used on my house when it was a 80amp main fuse) but I'm struggling to solder those wires to directly to the PSU. Another video drilled a few holes & put small bolts through & terminated the cable using ring end crimps. Is this how you did it? Thanks
Hello sir!I want to make one like you and I want to ask you if the battery of that car or another is type agm or efb we can also use this power supply psu or maybe because is efb or agm we can't use it to avoid any damage to the battery? I ask you because I know that we can't use a regular charger to charge efb or agm batteries and I think if this occurs and for power supply unit like this . I hope I give you to understand what I mean ,my English are not very good. Best Regards!!
Thanks for your comment and question. If voltage difference is over 0.5, the parallel connection doesn't work so load share feature doesn't kick in, another word, only one psu takes the load. Also you can't measure amp separately if you're on parallel connection.
Hi mate, I've found that these PSU's can put out about 13.78v before going into OVP orjustnot turning on. I set my device to about 13.5 and hooked it up to a battery (auto battery). It seemed to run fine for about 30-50 mins and when I checked on itagain the light in the back wasn't on and there was no more voltage output. I unplugged it and let it sit for a while and tried again and the light doesn't come on. I tried a day later and same thing. This is the second one this has happened to so I am wondering what is going on and if there is a way to prevent it and to bring these back to "life". I looked inside and all the components looke good but there is a lot that is difficult to see. The fan comes on but there is just no voltage output. I am running a 470 ohm 1/2 w resistor onpin 33/36 if that matters and ran wires from the onboard POT (disabled) to the back where I connect the appropriate resistors for the voltage needed. I use one HP-DPS-1200FB PSU. You have any suggestions for me?
Hello thanks fo the video my hp1500w power supply heats up quite a bit at 40% load I wanted to know if this is normal? I have other hp1200w power supplies which are much cooler. What is the normal temperature of the power metal cases? Thanks in advance :)
Hi, you're very welcome 👍 The one I used in the video get warm too but as I said it's normal. The highest I saw was in a programming session at around 75c degrees for about an hour. Just like gaming pc and laptops, they get warm over 80-85c during an intensive gaming period but still work fine. So, I wouldn't worry about the heat that much. All the best👋
you're prob in Britain, so you're on 240V. You deffinately do not want to run these psu on 120V NA circuits. Must be on a 240V ac circuit. That's easly done in NA also. 70A x 13V is approx 910W. These are rated for 12Vdc, 1200W @ 240V input and 12V dc, 800W @120V input. I find the pd19 runs cooler than the pd11 ( were used for Crypto mining with GPUs, but I must figure out the resistor connections for the pd19. This mod increases the voltage so even more important to make sure to run at 240V ac input, if you're looking to draw 70A @ 13+ V dc.
@14:12 - Why are the two + and - connected to each other on the board like that? I think it's for the amp meter? If I plan to skip the meter can I skip the GND/12V bridge between them? Sorry if this is a noob question - just trying to understand the connections better.
I clearly explained them in the video but I will try again here. The reason I connected 2 positive and negative is to create a parallel connection, so I can increase the amperage output. If you're using the same psu like in the video, you also have to bridge pin 34 for load share. However if you're using a single psu, you don't need to do these. Also, you don't have to have a volt/amp meter in your setup but it is a good practice to connect a volt/amp meter on your psu, so you can always keep an eye on voltage/amperage changes during programming.
Hi. I have been digging high and low trying to find documentation for a few similar server supplies. (Liteon PS-2112 and AcBel 550 watt) which al work great. My application though calls for 13.2 to 13.8. The Volt/current board is very different from yours and different between types. I must say, your video is the most detailed, easy to follow I have seen. Excellent job. My question is do you know of any sources of any info or documentation, even pinouts. Mainly looking for voltage increasing to meet my needs. Thanks in advance.
Hi, thanks for your comment. Unfortunately there are so many psu units out there and I spent a lot of time to make one work for myself. So, the one in the video is the only and most efficient one for the programming on bmw and they still work just fine. Therefore, I didn't try any other psu.
@@bmwsolutions7880 Thanks for responding, no doubt you got your hack from other sources like I do and with no documentation. All these supplies work in a similar manner, just tat different supplies, makers, and applications are just different enough that a hack only works on a particular control board. I see a destructive reverse engineering for supplies I have so a sacrifice of each type is in order. Thanks
Good luck with your work. As you said I did a lot of research to find information online. I don't think I will do that much research for every detail 😄 all the best ✌
Does anybody know the value of the capacitor which the 22k resistor is solder on in version 1. I think it’s a 0805 size but don’t know the value. Lost it when tried to solder.
Yes, you need to add resistors on both power supplies. And before you connect them in parallel, you need to fine tune their voltage to the same output, then parallel connection can be made✌
@@bmwsolutions7880 Ok.Thanks for answering I have a question, on the (+) cable to the car, it is not convenient a flush mount manual reset circuit breaker (for example 80A)? Thanks advance and congratulations on DIY
I tried the PSU with internal board version 2, but it behaves erratically and gives a lot lower and also unstable voltage, just about 3-4 Volt. It was operating at 12 Volt before I begun, when connecting pin 33 and 36. I measure a stable 3,62 kΩ over 75 kΩ when soldered and a restistance around 1.68 kΩ (after discharge and stabilization) over the 15 kΩ resistor when soldered. I did these measurements to make sure none of the ends are open, which then would have given the original 75 kΩ or 15 kΩ values. An open end is not so likely on the right side, but on the left side when fitting and soldering the resistors through the tiny holes, and since it is really hard to see if there is a proper connection, I guess it could happen. How sure are you that version 2 shall be modified as suggested are you and was that tested too?
@@bmwsolutions7880 I did the second PSU some days ago and the strange behavior was entirely repeatable. I cut off one lead on both the board resistors, to see if the PSU recover to 12 volt, but no. I then put both the PSU in garbage room since I didn't want't to see them anymore :), but the next morning I decided to really flush the circuit boards on the second PSU in 96% ethanol. After drying for 24 hours I got back both the 12 volt and then 14 volt after jumper the cutted leads with aligator clips. The root cause was obviously chloride ions from flux liquid, which created random leakage currents on the circuit boards!
Thanks for sharing your outcome and experience, it will stay on my channel forever . I'm sure it'll help others at some point in the future. All the best 👍 ✌️
Don't use a 1k resistor on pin 33 and 36, connect a 22k ohm resistor to pins 36 and 37 and short pin 33 to ground to power on. I have my revision 2 set to 14.3v.
Hello, I have the same version as you do but I don't know where to solder the resistors on the board as it's different than both the ones show in the video.
Hello I need to hook 2 PSU's in parallel like you did and was wondering what the function of pin 34 is. Is the pin output only, Input only or bidirectional? Do you know how this pin balances the load? Thanks.
Pin 34 is a load share pin and it does load balance automatically. However, before you make the parallel connection on PSUs, you need to fine tune the voltage separately (for ex. Both has to be 14.2volt) then just connect pin 34 for load share option.
Hi 👋 circuit boards are all different unfortunately 😕 the one in the video is the only one that is open to modification as no one knows much about other circuit boards.
Hi, thank you very much for the video, but I have a problem maybe you know what could be, I did all as the video, when I check the ouput it shows 14,2V but when I connect it to the car it drops to 0, any clue about this problem? Seems like a problem with the OVP but it’s all done exactly as in the video. Thank you!
Thanks for the compliment 👋 Not sure if you solved the problem but all I can think of is the poor soldering at a contact point or a short circuit due to soldering. You can also check the potmeter is working correctly. Just in case, make sure car is not running when psu is connected
Hi, good question. In theory it doesn't matter which psu you use when connect to car. Since you need to add a shunt on one psu to measure amp, therefore connection needs to go from that psu to your car.
@@bmwsolutions7880 One last question.. Did you remove the DC Standoff screws to make these "float", or am I correct in thinking you did not do that as you do not want to double the voltage, just the amps. And removing the DC standoffs puts them in series, not parallel? Sorry if this seems simple... Just conflicting information out there.
@@bmwsolutions7880 THANKS! That's the key that I needed. I suspected that was the how this worked but wanted to ask someone who's actually accomplished it. You just saved me a ton of fiddling and headache.
Jump starters feed an explosive amperage at a super fast rate for a very short time to start an engine. This power supplies or anything similar wouldn't be able to do that regardless of their voltage. This is a continuous power supply.
Would this be overkill for just reading and writing ecus? Bascially ecu tuning. Last time I done it through the OBD I let the voltage drop and the write failed and caused my ECU to brick.
You're very right, it would definitely be an overkill. I regularly play up with ecus for coding and tweaking, and I use a battery charger for it. Continuous power supplies are for proper encoding/programming sessions and when voltage drops below 13v the session is paused in ista+ and continues when voltage is back over 13v.
I think we need to be more specific here. Reading and coding ecus don't draw that much amperage so a battery charger would be fine even for hours. Ista, bimmerlink and bimmercode are examples you can use with a battery charger for hours. Check out my video on that ua-cam.com/video/NCPMINNX4rg/v-deo.html However, programming is different such as replacing ecu, virginising modules or i-level software update. You can only carry out these functions with E-sys or ista. During these sessions you have to have a continuous psu even if your session lasts for a few minutes.
Hello sir! Let's say you do programming on ecu and you have the psu connected all the time you do the programming and at some point the " procedure " is asking to start the engine to continue the programming at this time you leave the psu power on as it is or you must turn it off before you start the engine?Best regards!
Hi, I haven't seen any software asking to turn the engine on while psu is connected. It is highly dangerous. Programming ECUs are always performed while engine is off.
@@bmwsolutions7880 some gearbox when you doing programming or calibration at finaly stage of basic setting ask you to start the engine thats why I ask you. so if anytime we must start the engine always turn it off the psu right?
All good so far👍 as I said in the video, psu can heat up a lot but it's the nature of it. So, I wouldn't call it an overheating. I saw temperatures up to 85C degree working on a programming session for about 90 minutes without any problem.
why does amperage reading go down from 30A for a single power unit to 20A for a parallel unit? isnt amperage determined purely by the consumer? I would expect the amp reading to be the same no matter what the power supply is? Please explain. Thank you!
Hi, can this power supply be used like a battery maintainer, like when you need to find a parasitic draw and don' want to discharge the battery and need to work maybe hours without starting the car?...thanks
Hi, unfortunately not. Since the amperage is too high and can't be adjustable, we cannot use it to charge or maintain car batteries. Also it's recommended that you fully charge your car battery before using any power supply for programming.
@@bmwsolutions7880 hi and thanks.... what can I use when I need to diagnose parasitic draws, to maintain battery voltage?.... charger, maintainer, power supply?
Hi, parasitic draw occurs when there's a short circuit or a constant voltage usage such as usb power in the car, music play, lights etc. The purpose of this video and power supply is to maintain a minimum 13v on a high amp which delivers the promise.
It's a technical approach in connecting any power source to your car to prevent short circuit as there's a possibility. Always connect positive terminal first then negative. When disconnecting, negative comes off first then positive. Same when you use an ordinary car battery charger or when replacing your car battery.
Aaron, you mentioned you have background in electronics. Would you be able to help with a different PSU modification? DPS-2980AB A. It has an adjustable SMD pot on a controller board but the voltage output on 12 rail is too low for coding, doesn't go above 13V and I was wondering if replacing the pot with a higher resistance one would do the trick to raising the voltage above 13V or do I need to figure out (hopefully with your help!) any other modes, like a voltage protection chip hack?. I have good photos of the control board and pulled data sheets of the chips but I have no electronics expertise ...
Hi Peter, I have tried a few different models without success and decided to use this particular model. In my experience, adjusting the voltage wasn't a problem but I couldn't figure out OVP protection bypass. These power supplies are extremely complicated and manufacturers don't release circuit board schematics for public. So, that's why I gave up on trying and made this psu in the video.
@@bmwsolutions7880 this one looks really complicated tbh. A pity as it is a power house, 3kW of power on 12v with 244A max output. I will solder in a resistor to the left leg of the v-regulator pot and ground and I will see where it takes me. I will be happy with 13v. With this much power the voltage shouldn't drop even if I connect 3 cars to it at the same time lol. I came across this one on bitcoin farm forums as thy use it to power their graphics cards. £38 delivered. If I am not successful I will buy one of the ones which are know to be easily moddable and use this one as general 12v power supply/LED high power light rig driver.
@@bmwsolutions7880 All mostly done. Found a great youtube vid explaining the "electronics" behind what needed to be done to increase the voltage. I have a rather good grasp of physics but I have zero electronics background - I know how things should work in theory but no clue how to translate this into practice. To increase the voltage above for what the existing trimmer pot was designed for I needed to increase its resistance. This is normally done by adding a resistor in series. Not practical on a PCB using SMD components, not for me at least. Go back to basics. What does an adjustable resistor do? It drops the voltage - resistors are voltage dividers. If I cannot add a resistor what is the other way of lowering the voltage across that component? Bleed to negative in controlled manner! So by adding an adjustable pot to the left bottom leg of the SMD pot (fine tip soldering under magnifying glass) and negative point on the board I managed to do just that. So set the adjustable resistor just soldered in to max and turn the knob slowly to lower the resistance (increase the voltage "bleed"/drop) while observing the output 12v voltage on your multimeter. When it starts going up you this is when you stop. Also, set the PCB pot to min voltage first to give yourself room to crank it up. Disconnect the adjustable pot, measure the resistance it was set to and pick a solid resistor of a value close to it to solder in place - I had 1kOhm adjustable pot and soldered in 1,5kOhm in. Hey presto, it goes to 13.25V and then it trips. I have no way to remove the over voltage protection unfortunately. So I set it to 13.15V to stay on the safe side- set the max voltage with no load or you will not be able to turn it on without it. Then I made a load bank from lots of old car headlight bulbs (1kW load combined or 70Amps) to test the voltage drop. It went down to 12.95 on one bank only (PSU has two independent banks of 12v outputs with two sets of HV circuitry serving it) so it will be even less when I combine two banks together. Next step is to hook it up to the car and switch every single consumer unit possible in the accessory mode to confirm the voltage drop. I am waiting for some 100Amp cable to finish the job and will report back. Fingers crossed :)
Sounds you've been busy with lots of work mate🤠 but remember that programming doesn't work below 13volt. And the voltage fluctuates during programming sessions. That's why I set mine to 14.2volt which drops down to 13.5 during full load. Let me know the end result when you're done with testing it. Good luck again
Hi Aaron, there are many other server PSUs available. For example some Dell ones at 1400W or a potential 100Amps +. What's the biggest hurdle in modding any of these to output 14.5v? Is it overcoming the overvolt protection circuits?
I totally understand your agony on modifying different brands and models of PSUs but I had to go with this particular model as I couldn't find enough solid information on anything else to modify. Nevertheless, this mod worked just fine for me and created a reference point for those who want to save time and hassle to get going without any headache.
here is a list, if anyone else needs it in the future, scroll down a little bit to PSU PINOUT translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fforum.bits.media%2Findex.php%3F%252Ftopic%252F10447-%25D1%2580%25D0%25B0%25D1%2581%25D0%25BF%25D0%25B8%25D0%25BD%25D0%25BE%25D0%25B2%25D0%25BA%25D0%25B0-%25D0%25B8-%25D0%25BF%25D1%2580%25D0%25BE%25D1%2587%25D0%25B8%25D0%25B5-%25D1%2582%25D0%25BE%25D0%25BD%25D0%25BA%25D0%25BE%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D0%25B8-%25D0%25BD%25D0%25B0%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D1%2580%25D0%25BE%25D0%25B9%25D0%25BA%25D0%25B8-%25D1%2581%25D0%25B5%25D1%2580%25D0%25B2%25D0%25B5%25D1%2580%25D0%25BD%25D1%258B%25D1%2585-%25D0%25B1%25D0%25BF%252Fhttp%3A%2F%2F
What is the resistor values for 75k and 15k in terms of 1/2watt or 1/4watt? +/- 1%??? For each? I can't read the resistor values on the screen. Any help would be greatly appreciated sir.
I just ordered two HP 1200w 498152-001 model number:HTNS-PL11 I was wondering if anyone knows how to raise the voltage to 14.4 on this model. I'm looking to run these in parallel. 🙂
@@bmwsolutions7880 I saw one video that shows the resistors and how to place them. Except it's very difficult to see on my phone I may need to break out the laptop to see. 😊
I screwed one side of the shunt to negative terminal and other side is connected to cut off switch. Unfortunately you can't really see it in the video because it's all wrapped up with electrical tape. It looks like a sausage just between the power supply and cut off switch if you look carefully.
Unfortunately these PD11 PSU’s seem to be in short supply and high price now. Not sure whether to blame you or the damned crypto miners. Anyway, do you have any suggestions for alternative power supplies that aren’t currently in short supply? Thanks
Sorry to hear that really, it must be frustrating😬 it is a popular psu among many including RC communities and all other for being open to modifications. I tried a few other HP psu mods without success, so looks like this is still the best option as of now.
Hey Aaron where is pin 34 located for the bridge to be made in between the two power units? Thank you for getting g back to me about the resistors your a true champ! Never mind i found heres the link is anyone wants to know... www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36523697&postcount=3709
@@bmwsolutions7880 I was watching on my phone it's so small and the dark blue just looked like it was connecting the power supplies but I wasn't sure of the location. I thought it was some where internally connected. My mistake. Thank you Aaron.
@@bmwsolutions7880 hey mate, just looking for some confirmation, naturally I'm worried about connecting something to my car which isn't BMW endorsed, it wouldn't be good if I fried the computers in the car that would cost some $$$$ to fix. That being said it seems to work well for you. I assume that it's still working well? I have access to 6-8 of these PSUs so I'm considering following you guide.
I think the conformation you're looking for is in the video with all details. I wouldn't recommend such a complicated and possibly dangerous work to fry up people's ecus 👍 I have also tried both single and double psus on different cars and they've been just fine. Nevertheless, I'd still recommend you to carry out a detailed research online to have a better understanding of this work. All the best 👍
Woodpecker! Why did you get into programming with this piece of crap!? Then you will run around crap and shout “save, help - half the blocks on board the BMW have burned out”...
Hello i have the same specific unit I did everything according to this guide. I have set it to 14.2V when I connect power supply to car the green led shuts off and psu is giving zero amps what can be wrong?? When i connect it to old car battery it gives 3.0Amps. Thanks
This is awesome my man, here I am at the end of 2022, I am going to do this for myself instead of expensive programming power supplies, thank you so much.
Thank you for sharing the video!
I built about a year ago one of these (with a different power supply model, all is needed in all models is to locate the OVP and disable it) and I did many hours of programming without any issues).
That saves us hundred of 💰💰💰
You're very welcome, thanks for sharing your experience ✌️
I've found online HP DPS-1200FB-1. Will it same as in the video?
There are also 1400w ~= 117Amp output but don't know how to increase OVP and output voltage toe 14.5
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks again for posting the video, was great help. One thing worth adding just in case others come across same issue. Using a jumper wire 33&36 worked for me on the bench, but the PSU would shut down when connected to the car. I found another post somewhere else that said the best way would be to use 22k resister between 36&37, then 33 to ground turns it on (could use a switch here). This worked perfectly for me. Cheers
Thanks for the comment and your contribution. I'm sure it will help people to solve the problems with shutting off. I just shorted the pins and worked for me.
Im having the same issue, can run the psu on the bench with no problem running over 50amps but the second i connecte to car it shuts down. I tried the stated above 22k resistor between 36 & 37 with a switch between 33 & ground but still shuts down. Any help on this would be great.
Using the same psu in the video and I have a 75k resistor on the ovp and 15k on the voltage pot.
@@jwilk1704 So PSU is connected to the main, then connected to the car with switch in off position. After connecting to the car you then toggle the switch. This worked for me. It shuts down if connected to the car whilst switch was on. Give this a go?
Such a good alternative to expensive power supplies. I was thinking of buying schumacher 700 but change my mind now
Very Kind of you sir thanks for sharing. There needs to be a lot more persons like you in this world.
You're very welcome, I'm glad I'm being helpful to you👍
Really good job. Thank you for great explanation and additional comments for 75K instead of 100k and 15K instead of 22k. This save a long time of tests from my side.
You're very welcome ✌
Looks very impressive, I will try this set up. Did you solder the cables to PSU or screwed them? Also how loud is the fan on PSU when on full load?
Thanks a lot for a very informative video :)
Thanks for your comment, I'm glad you find the video useful.
First, I drilled holes on voltage outputs on circuit, then used copper connectors and screwed them on to the circuit board, then did some soldering around them.
Second, I didn't notice any fan noise under load, at least it wasn't disturbing by any means, so I'd say it's like a pc fan noise under load👌
Works like a charm. I owe you a serious debt of gratitude for sharing your video, idea, and knowledge for doing this my guy. Thank you!!!! Having fun copying your build was an unexpected bonus...
You're very welcome 🤠 I'm glad my work helped you. All the best👋
How do you like dongle so far, have you gotten a chance to program any modules with it yet? In your opinion dongle vs icom?
Dongle?
@@bmwsolutions7880 the vxdiag vcx bmw interface
Well, I was quite curious about that dongle and couldn't really find much info on the web, so I had to buy one and try 😀
It's exactly same as original icom, price was very good (£140), very small device compared to icom and it can connect via cable and wifi. I tried all It's features and worked just fine. I programmed a new ecu on both E-SYS and ista D on my friends car, also carried out i-level software update. All works fine. However, most frustrating part was to solve some software issues as there's not enough tech support on the web. My dongle got broken somehow after 6 months and company arranged a teamviewer session to diagnose the problem and offered a repair, so I had to send it all the way to China. All correspondence and process took a few weeks to solve. On the other hand, when you buy an icom, you get no warranty or tech support as bmw doesn't sell it directly to individuals. The ones who sell online claim that they give you warranty and support but I wouldn't take it seriously. All in all, even the vcx dongle gets broken or stolen, it is very cheap to obtain, so that's why I prefer and use it.
Hello, thank you don't worry, I am an electronic technician. With four resistence and the Lm 358 I have gived the current control to the power supply. Bye
Sorry I did mean to say thanks to , I needed to figure out how to adjust the ovp so thanks very much.
First, thank you! I have similar modding experience with ATX PSUs and "wall warts". Some questions for you:
1. What are the pin assignment of pins 33 & 36? I ask because on E90 Post("DIY - Server Power Supply for Coding" thread) in which a DIYer who referenced your video, claims that a 22k resistor between pins 36 & 37(ground), then shorting(switching) between pins 33 and ground(to turn ON) is better since pins 33 and 36 are "wired to weak pull-up or pull-down circuits, so essentially you're fighting between them." ... "Pin 36 is wired to a pull-down resistor, which means it isn't true ground. The PSU isn't connected to a real server socket, so the board won't fight you in trying to pull up the connection." Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
2. Can you confirm if the 75k resistor lowers the voltage sensed by the OVP(Over Voltage Protection) circuit IC?
3. Can you confirm that the 15k resistor increases the overall resistance of the "R1" resistor in a 'voltage divider'(or low pass RC filter) to trick the PSU into sensing a lower voltage than the actual output voltage?
4. There is a very cool mod video of a slightly different but similar model DPS-800GB in which the gent lifts the OVP circuit's sense pin, then attaches various resistors (including a 2k variable resistor @ 09:50 into the video) between pin 32 and ground to achieve a similar result of raising the output voltage. Is this possible because pin 32 at least in this different model is associated with a 'voltage divider' connected to voltage regulation or is this related to an entirely different concept/function? Do you think this would work with the DPS-1200FB?
ua-cam.com/video/9--g63ew9HU/v-deo.html
Thanks and cheers!
Thank you so much, I used this video to build my own Power Supply for programing and coding my F11, for my build I used two HP Server PSU. works perfect. A must have. Thanks again!
You're very welcome 👍 I'm glad I've been helpful to you and your set up works fine. To be honest, even a single psu is working fine, I tried it several times. Of course double is better 😄.
All the best 👍
I'm hesitant to make this conversion, I'm afraid to fry my modules due to overcharge/current 😅 is this a possibility or unlikely ?
@@thesmartguy3523 I am not sure if this can happen with this specific build. I have been using my dual parallel Power Supply rig for over a year now on my f11, I was also relucent to connect it to the car the first time but after seeing a few posts with these builds I decided to go for it. I have had no issues thus far and have had it connected to the car for long periods while coding and programming, I believe the longest I have had it connected is a little over three hours. My output voltage is 14.6. I have never measured that output amperage. I paid $23 for each power supply.
Hello,
I can't adjust the potentiometer.
Is it possible that I forgot a step I live in France we use 220v.
Thanks a lot
Thanks for this verry useful video.
I Just wanted to say great job with video and information. Worked out perfectly. ❤ my final product
Thanks very much 👍 I'm happy that I've been helpful ✌️
the official regulator should protect the airbag modules and stuff too, but as this one did not blow them up either, then is it possible for an average tech user to build the same thing and how much it gonna cost in total ?
Nice job! What was your source for the resistor values? I'm planning to do this, but I would prefer 13.6 V, rather than 14.4 V, which is for charging, not coding or programming. Once the battery is charged, the voltage should be maintained at 13.6 V. I'm interested to know if the source you used mentioned the resistor values for 13.6 V. Thanks.
any ideea if hstns pl11 could be modded the same way ....beacuse my supplier sent me pl11 not pd11 and i can t send it back
any advice would be very helpful
Did you get 14.2v from pl 11 with the same modifications as pd 11?
I'm in the same situation. Supplier sent PL11. Did you modded PL11?
@@arq19831 Ive modded HSTNS-PL18 up to 13.85V. It appears the same mod might apply to PL11. I havent been able to defeat the OVP to more.
Can you connect this power supply to the car with the battery installed or does it need to be disconnected first? I would like to use this to power my car stereo for long periods of time without draining the battery
Nice video but one point, the current you are measuring with two power supplies is still the final current draw of the car, you are not seeing less current because they are sharing current, its the current going to the car from both combined, if you have wired as you show in your diagram.
Hi, thanks for your comment. You're 100% correct👍 I think i made a mistake in wording there. Not easy to stay calm and not get nervous when working on complicated electronics while recording and editing. Take care🖐
I'm confused, why do you need a mains PSU to program a car instead of just running it off the car battery?
Btw. keep in mind those were designed to last but with normal operating voltage of 12V, going above is reducing its life span, also in server config they run two of them and max system load is equivalent to less than max load of one PSU, so at worst each PSU is running less than 50%, its so that if one PSU fails the entire system can be ran with the other one.
Good job Aaron. At about 10:20 in the video, you said that you didn’t feel the amperage was correct on the display. You stated that you changed the display to rectify the problem. To clarify...you swapped out the display with another because the first was faulty, or there was a setting/adjustment you made to the original display? Thank you, and keep up the good work!
Hi Brad, these little eBay displays are very cheap and can be unreliable, so knowing that I ordered a few of them in the first place and replaced the display for the second test. I could spend time calibrating it as they have pots on them but didn't have time for it at that moment.
@@bmwsolutions7880 So has it been reliable since you replaced it?
Yes, it has.
I also connected a standalone amp meter and tested it again, so second test in the video was accurate indeed.
I have a question. Hacking using 75kohm 15kohm.
** Use pin 33/36 wires to install or power off short or 1k resistance connections.
I'm going to make a short circuit
DC Voltage/Ammeter Connections
Can I use it like this? Red switch? Nozzle? The same parts are connected
I'm curious about the purpose of the part. Can I make it without the part being installed?
Hello, Thank you very much for your detailed video instruction. I've made a power supply according to your instructions, everything works! I wish you a happy new year !!! 🤝✌
I'm glad I've been helpful to you. Enjoy your psu 🤠👋
Awesome work, thanks for sharing! I wonder, have you tried this with PD19 model? If so, i would love to know your resistor values. So far, ive been unable to run it stable without OVP / failsafe kicking in.
hello sir, thanks for your details instructions .... are you 100% sure the diagram connecting the display to the PSU is accurate? I am showing 0.0A amps reading even when on load
Great video mate, thanks a lot . If I make only one pd 11, is it going to be enough for programming f15 with enet cable? Is it possible at all programming with enet cable, or I have to have an Icom or the one you have ?
Thank you 👍 unfortunately enet cable is not capable for coding/programming on ista, however it works just fine on e-sys which is a bit more complicated to learn. Another option for ista is an icom or an equivalent device just like I have.
@@bmwsolutions7880 Thanks alot for the quick answer , mister. So is possible to use the enet cable for programming with esys, no problem. That's good news , bacause I want to update the modules one by one , and this is possible only with esys. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, have a nice day ?
You're very welcome 👍 that's exactly right, you can update or replace any ecu using e-sys with an enet cable. It allows you to work on a single ecu coding/update/programming or all modules at the same time. Have a great one 👋
@@bmwsolutions7880 Thaks mate !!!!!
NICE VIDEO VERY DETAILED, I HAVE A QUESTION MY FRIEND, HOW MANY WATTS NEED HANDLE THE RESISTORS? 1/4 WATT, 1/2 WATT OR 1 WATT?
Thanks, 1/4 watt is enough.
Very helpful video! I'm going to try the same with version 1 PD11. I have not soldered the circuit board. Would you or any soldering guru here please share what exact soldering iron, soldering tip size, and soldering wire size, etc. I should use? Also, a close picture of the finished soldering of the 2 resistors would be very nice, too so we know exactly where to solder to. Thank you.
Thanks for your comment. You can buy a cheap soldering iron that comes with several size tips and a thin lead free soldering wire should be enough. None of the tools are special in this video, that's the purpose. (For ex; Little black box that holds the volt/amp meter and temp gauge is an empty cream cheese box). I also recommended you to watch the video on a big screen as it helps with circuit board connection points. Good luck and take extra care with your diy.
Hi. Thank you very much for video. It is 2 years after and I wish you are well and healthy.
I bought all the parts and started building but unfortunately in a moment it started working and then stopped. Tried different combinations of resistors but no luck, sometimes it worked well and then stopped.
I have the version 2 in your video from minute 3:14 . It was really difficult to solder the 75k resistor but after some tests I found that the soldering point is directly connected to the white connector and there is much easier to solder.
Do you have any suggestions on how to make it work?
Thanks again
I have the following power supply PD41, what size resistor do i need?
Thank you for sharing. This approach looks great. I have a concern on the difference in voltage when you first connect this power supply to the car battery. Please can you clarify if this would be an issue? I see other comment about fully charge the battery first but there will be a difference anyway.
You're welcome👍 fully charged battery is recommended before starting your programming. Otherwise voltage drop increases during load.
hi, i made follow your video but on resistor 75k and 15k won't turn on, only works on 110k and 22k and it give only 13.75v and i want 14.2-14.4v to use on bmw programming..
you know what's wrong on it?, my psu has the same model of psu like on your video..
Thank you good Sir for all your efforts for this has saved me a lot of time and money thanks once again regards
You're very welcome 👋
Did you do this to charge the battery with the adapter?
Great video, does the 100A shunt come with the Volt/Amp meter?
Thanks for your comment. Yes it came with the shunt when bought from ebay.
It appears that using pin 34 to bridge the power supplies as designed....that it wasnt necessary to have one power supply with a "floating ground". Did you alter the ground on any power supply??
Hello, thank you very much. All works good. I have the second type, 56k + 15k can get 14.4V good to charge car's batteries.
Happy to hear that you completed your setup. Just to let you know that these are continuous power sources not battery chargers, so they won't charge your car battery. Also before you start coding session, always make sure to charge your car battery using an ordinary charger, then make psu connections to start programming session.
Great job
Is there a way to put a switch with set amounts of amperage or is the amperage ramped up by the power supply as it's needed.
Thanks for taking your time to bring this wonderful things to us. I salute, I got the PD11, but how do increase it to 14.4v?
You're welcome, I'm glad you find it useful.
If you're referring to the voltage adjustment, go to 3.34 in the video. Look at the pic I showed with 15k resistor attached to a small round thing, it is the voltage potentiometer. Make sure you use a plastic pick tool to be safe when changing the voltage.
@@bmwsolutions7880 thanks, for 14.4v, what resistors should I use? 110k or 75v and 22k or 15k. I have another question, by adding a resistor will the voltage increase automatically to 14.2v.
I think you need to watch the video carefully, paying more attention to details. All the answers are already in the video and comments.
Ps. Adding a resistor doesn't automatically increase the voltage, you still need to use potentiometer to adjust it.
@@bmwsolutions7880 OK thanks
How did you connect the battery cables to the circuit board of the power supply. Did you solder them.
Great video.. Can I ask how did you attach the 4AWG (25mm2) cable to the PSU itself? I've got some 16mm2 meter tails (that was used on my house when it was a 80amp main fuse) but I'm struggling to solder those wires to directly to the PSU. Another video drilled a few holes & put small bolts through & terminated the cable using ring end crimps. Is this how you did it? Thanks
Thanks, I used cable connectors with holes, then screwed them on to the psu board. Soldering doesn't really work.
Hello sir!I want to make one like you and I want to ask you if the battery of that car or another is type agm or efb we can also use this power supply psu or maybe because is efb or agm we can't use it to avoid any damage to the battery? I ask you because I know that we can't use a regular charger to charge efb or agm batteries and I think if this occurs and for power supply unit like this . I hope I give you to understand what I mean ,my English are not very good. Best Regards!!
Great thanks for the video. What could be the problem if the voltages of each are different? Can we measure the amps of each separately?
Thanks for your comment and question. If voltage difference is over 0.5, the parallel connection doesn't work so load share feature doesn't kick in, another word, only one psu takes the load. Also you can't measure amp separately if you're on parallel connection.
Hi mate,
I've found that these PSU's can put out about 13.78v before going into OVP orjustnot turning on. I set my device to about 13.5 and hooked it up to a battery (auto battery). It seemed to run fine for about 30-50 mins and when I checked on itagain the light in the back wasn't on and there was no more voltage output. I unplugged it and let it sit for a while and tried again and the light doesn't come on. I tried a day later and same thing. This is the second one this has happened to so I am wondering what is going on and if there is a way to prevent it and to bring these back to "life". I looked inside and all the components looke good but there is a lot that is difficult to see. The fan comes on but there is just no voltage output.
I am running a 470 ohm 1/2 w resistor onpin 33/36 if that matters and ran wires from the onboard POT (disabled) to the back where I connect the appropriate resistors for the voltage needed.
I use one HP-DPS-1200FB PSU.
You have any suggestions for me?
Thanks for sharing.
Would you happen to know what the other two potentiometers trimpots are used for?
No idea to be honest
Nice project!
Sir, why do you not use an Auto reset breaker for this circuit?
Thanks, I couldn't find the exact one I wanted, so had to go without it 👍
If you don't add the two internal resisters, does the power supply still activate with the external jump/resister/switch but only at 12v?
That is correct 👍
What's that bridge on pin 34?
Pin 34 is the load share pins for these power supplies which needs to be connected together for parallel connection
hi.. do you have photo on those connections? i will try to make same as yours but its too small.. im a bmw tech too
Hello thanks fo the video
my hp1500w power supply heats up quite a bit at 40% load
I wanted to know if this is normal?
I have other hp1200w power supplies which are much cooler.
What is the normal temperature of the power metal cases?
Thanks in advance :)
Hi, you're very welcome 👍
The one I used in the video get warm too but as I said it's normal. The highest I saw was in a programming session at around 75c degrees for about an hour.
Just like gaming pc and laptops, they get warm over 80-85c during an intensive gaming period but still work fine. So, I wouldn't worry about the heat that much. All the best👋
Hello,
I found the same model but it's DP19 will that work the same?
you're prob in Britain, so you're on 240V. You deffinately do not want to run these psu on 120V NA circuits. Must be on a 240V ac circuit. That's easly done in NA also. 70A x 13V is approx 910W. These are rated for 12Vdc, 1200W @ 240V input and 12V dc, 800W @120V input. I find the pd19 runs cooler than the pd11 ( were used for Crypto mining with GPUs, but I must figure out the resistor connections for the pd19. This mod increases the voltage so even more important to make sure to run at 240V ac input, if you're looking to draw 70A @ 13+ V dc.
@14:12 - Why are the two + and - connected to each other on the board like that? I think it's for the amp meter?
If I plan to skip the meter can I skip the GND/12V bridge between them?
Sorry if this is a noob question - just trying to understand the connections better.
I clearly explained them in the video but I will try again here. The reason I connected 2 positive and negative is to create a parallel connection, so I can increase the amperage output. If you're using the same psu like in the video, you also have to bridge pin 34 for load share. However if you're using a single psu, you don't need to do these.
Also, you don't have to have a volt/amp meter in your setup but it is a good practice to connect a volt/amp meter on your psu, so you can always keep an eye on voltage/amperage changes during programming.
Hi. I have been digging high and low trying to find documentation for a few similar server supplies.
(Liteon PS-2112 and AcBel 550 watt) which al work great.
My application though calls for 13.2 to 13.8. The Volt/current board is very different from yours and different between types.
I must say, your video is the most detailed, easy to follow I have seen. Excellent job.
My question is do you know of any sources of any info or documentation, even pinouts.
Mainly looking for voltage increasing to meet my needs.
Thanks in advance.
Hi, thanks for your comment. Unfortunately there are so many psu units out there and I spent a lot of time to make one work for myself. So, the one in the video is the only and most efficient one for the programming on bmw and they still work just fine. Therefore, I didn't try any other psu.
@@bmwsolutions7880 Thanks for responding, no doubt you got your hack from other sources like I do and with no documentation. All these supplies work in a similar manner, just tat different supplies, makers, and applications are just different enough that a hack only works on a particular control board. I see a destructive reverse engineering for supplies I have so a sacrifice of each type is in order.
Thanks
Good luck with your work. As you said I did a lot of research to find information online. I don't think I will do that much research for every detail 😄 all the best ✌
Does anybody know the value of the capacitor which the 22k resistor is solder on in version 1. I think it’s a 0805 size but don’t know the value. Lost it when tried to solder.
Very good and helpful video, I will make one, for me need for obd remaping 👍
Thank you, I'm glad you find it useful 🤠 good luck with your setup, hope you get it done soon and enjoy it👍
@@bmwsolutions7880 I just want to ask you about the amperage of the red and black cable and if you can link where you bought them?
Thanks
It can handle over 100amp with an ease
amazing work.I have a doubt. for 2 power supplies it is necessary. include resistors in both.??
Thanks for advance
Thanks for your comment. I didn't understand what resistors you're referring to?
@@bmwsolutions7880 resistors 22k and 110k. to increase the output range??
Yes, you need to add resistors on both power supplies. And before you connect them in parallel, you need to fine tune their voltage to the same output, then parallel connection can be made✌
@@bmwsolutions7880
Ok.Thanks for answering
I have a question, on the (+) cable to the car, it is not convenient a flush mount manual reset circuit breaker (for example 80A)?
Thanks advance and congratulations on DIY
Hello, i m looking on making a 9v volt psu from the same psu as yours, any guide?
I tried the PSU with internal board version 2, but it behaves erratically and gives a lot lower and also unstable voltage, just about 3-4 Volt. It was operating at 12 Volt before I begun, when connecting pin 33 and 36. I measure a stable 3,62 kΩ over 75 kΩ when soldered and a restistance around 1.68 kΩ (after discharge and stabilization) over the 15 kΩ resistor when soldered. I did these measurements to make sure none of the ends are open, which then would have given the original 75 kΩ or 15 kΩ values. An open end is not so likely on the right side, but on the left side when fitting and soldering the resistors through the tiny holes, and since it is really hard to see if there is a proper connection, I guess it could happen. How sure are you that version 2 shall be modified as suggested are you and was that tested too?
To be honest, I'm not 100% sure about board 2 version. I used only board 1 version in a few cases.
@@bmwsolutions7880 I did the second PSU some days ago and the strange behavior was entirely repeatable. I cut off one lead on both the board resistors, to see if the PSU recover to 12 volt, but no. I then put both the PSU in garbage room since I didn't want't to see them anymore :), but the next morning I decided to really flush the circuit boards on the second PSU in 96% ethanol. After drying for 24 hours I got back both the 12 volt and then 14 volt after jumper the cutted leads with aligator clips. The root cause was obviously chloride ions from flux liquid, which created random leakage currents on the circuit boards!
Thanks for sharing your outcome and experience, it will stay on my channel forever . I'm sure it'll help others at some point in the future.
All the best 👍 ✌️
Don't use a 1k resistor on pin 33 and 36, connect a 22k ohm resistor to pins 36 and 37 and short pin 33 to ground to power on. I have my revision 2 set to 14.3v.
Hello,
I have the same version as you do but I don't know where to solder the resistors on the board as it's different than both the ones show in the video.
This can be connected with the car running? And still working without going to overprotection?
Never connect any power source or battery charger when car is running
Question:Another film I watching pin 33 bridge negative and pins 36 with pin 37 resistor.Your solution is different.Which better?
I didn't try any other way. My psu works just fine so far.
Hello I need to hook 2 PSU's in parallel like you did and was wondering what the function of pin 34 is. Is the pin output only, Input only or bidirectional? Do you know how this pin balances the load? Thanks.
Pin 34 is a load share pin and it does load balance automatically. However, before you make the parallel connection on PSUs, you need to fine tune the voltage separately (for ex. Both has to be 14.2volt) then just connect pin 34 for load share option.
Hi, how important is the pd11 or pd19 or pd15 ? They not the same pcb board layout and performance ? Thanks
Hi 👋 circuit boards are all different unfortunately 😕 the one in the video is the only one that is open to modification as no one knows much about other circuit boards.
hi
what have you done with case ground , did you isolate case from board on both of them or just one ?
Hi, I didn't do anything to isolate the case. Once the work was finished, I closed it as it was.
Hi, thank you very much for the video, but I have a problem maybe you know what could be, I did all as the video, when I check the ouput it shows 14,2V but when I connect it to the car it drops to 0, any clue about this problem? Seems like a problem with the OVP but it’s all done exactly as in the video. Thank you!
Thanks for the compliment 👋
Not sure if you solved the problem but all I can think of is the poor soldering at a contact point or a short circuit due to soldering. You can also check the potmeter is working correctly. Just in case, make sure car is not running when psu is connected
Aaron, when you have two in parallel, can you wire the cables for the vehicle from either PSU pad or does it have to be the bottom one?
Hi, good question. In theory it doesn't matter which psu you use when connect to car. Since you need to add a shunt on one psu to measure amp, therefore connection needs to go from that psu to your car.
@@bmwsolutions7880 One last question.. Did you remove the DC Standoff screws to make these "float", or am I correct in thinking you did not do that as you do not want to double the voltage, just the amps. And removing the DC standoffs puts them in series, not parallel? Sorry if this seems simple... Just conflicting information out there.
Float is required when in series connection to double up the voltage. Parallel connection doesn't require float as we're doubling up the amperage.
@@bmwsolutions7880 THANKS! That's the key that I needed. I suspected that was the how this worked but wanted to ask someone who's actually accomplished it. You just saved me a ton of fiddling and headache.
Another question out of curiosity, lets say I needed to jumpstart my car do you think It would work with around 13.8 volts?
Jump starters feed an explosive amperage at a super fast rate for a very short time to start an engine. This power supplies or anything similar wouldn't be able to do that regardless of their voltage. This is a continuous power supply.
Would this be overkill for just reading and writing ecus? Bascially ecu tuning. Last time I done it through the OBD I let the voltage drop and the write failed and caused my ECU to brick.
You're very right, it would definitely be an overkill. I regularly play up with ecus for coding and tweaking, and I use a battery charger for it. Continuous power supplies are for proper encoding/programming sessions and when voltage drops below 13v the session is paused in ista+ and continues when voltage is back over 13v.
@@bmwsolutions7880 I see, what would you recommended for just reading and writing ecus where sometimes it maximum takes 30mins to write?
I think we need to be more specific here. Reading and coding ecus don't draw that much amperage so a battery charger would be fine even for hours. Ista, bimmerlink and bimmercode are examples you can use with a battery charger for hours. Check out my video on that ua-cam.com/video/NCPMINNX4rg/v-deo.html
However, programming is different such as replacing ecu, virginising modules or i-level software update. You can only carry out these functions with E-sys or ista. During these sessions you have to have a continuous psu even if your session lasts for a few minutes.
@@bmwsolutions7880 I mean like using MPPS v16 to read my ecu so I can get it remapped, then writing it back to the car?
Yeh, ecu tuning is like programming and can draw high amperage. Also can take longer than coding, so I'd suggest a psu not a battery charger.
Hello sir! Let's say you do programming on ecu and you have the psu connected all the time you do the programming and at some point the " procedure " is asking to start the engine to continue the programming at this time you leave the psu power on as it is or you must turn it off before you start the engine?Best regards!
Hi, I haven't seen any software asking to turn the engine on while psu is connected. It is highly dangerous. Programming ECUs are always performed while engine is off.
@@bmwsolutions7880 some gearbox when you doing programming or calibration at finaly stage of basic setting ask you to start the engine thats why I ask you. so if anytime we must start the engine always turn it off the psu right?
Yes, you must take off any psu or battery charger before run the engine.
So how its holds? Can it handle like 40qmps over longer period of time without overheating? Like 2-3 hours?
All good so far👍 as I said in the video, psu can heat up a lot but it's the nature of it. So, I wouldn't call it an overheating. I saw temperatures up to 85C degree working on a programming session for about 90 minutes without any problem.
Nevermind the "floating ground" question...I realize now...youre PSU are in parallel, not in series.
Can you help me power up the delta a236?
why does amperage reading go down from 30A for a single power unit to 20A for a parallel unit? isnt amperage determined purely by the consumer? I would expect the amp reading to be the same no matter what the power supply is? Please explain. Thank you!
is it because the amp meter is measuring the output of each individual psu?
Load sharing reduces the amperage reading on these display meters as there's a single meter connected to two psu.
Sir i have to of that psu in parallel use to may car amp if i use that mode it can be parallel again? Many thanks
Hi, I'm having difficulties to understand what you're trying to say. I suggest you use google translation for better explanation 👍
Have you done this to PL42, or know where to add the other two resistors? I got it to power on but the other two resistors is different.
Unfortunately no.
men can you help me please with this model HP DPS-700GB how to increase OVP and output to 14.5v i have two piece
I'd like to help you but only psu that worked for me is the one in the video. I couldn't mod any other model.
how many watts are those resistors?
Yes, please answer
Sorry, sometimes I miss the comments. All the resistors I used were standard small ones. They're not wattage specific 👍
Hi, can this power supply be used like a battery maintainer, like when you need to find a parasitic draw and don' want to discharge the battery and need to work maybe hours without starting the car?...thanks
Hi, unfortunately not. Since the amperage is too high and can't be adjustable, we cannot use it to charge or maintain car batteries. Also it's recommended that you fully charge your car battery before using any power supply for programming.
@@bmwsolutions7880 hi and thanks.... what can I use when I need to diagnose parasitic draws, to maintain battery voltage?.... charger, maintainer, power supply?
Hi, parasitic draw occurs when there's a short circuit or a constant voltage usage such as usb power in the car, music play, lights etc.
The purpose of this video and power supply is to maintain a minimum 13v on a high amp which delivers the promise.
Do you have a PDF schematic on how to build this device would appreciate it
Everything you need is in the video and comments
Question: why is the battery switch on the negative wire?
It's a technical approach in connecting any power source to your car to prevent short circuit as there's a possibility. Always connect positive terminal first then negative. When disconnecting, negative comes off first then positive. Same when you use an ordinary car battery charger or when replacing your car battery.
Aaron, you mentioned you have background in electronics. Would you be able to help with a different PSU modification? DPS-2980AB A. It has an adjustable SMD pot on a controller board but the voltage output on 12 rail is too low for coding, doesn't go above 13V and I was wondering if replacing the pot with a higher resistance one would do the trick to raising the voltage above 13V or do I need to figure out (hopefully with your help!) any other modes, like a voltage protection chip hack?. I have good photos of the control board and pulled data sheets of the chips but I have no electronics expertise ...
Hi Peter, I have tried a few different models without success and decided to use this particular model. In my experience, adjusting the voltage wasn't a problem but I couldn't figure out OVP protection bypass. These power supplies are extremely complicated and manufacturers don't release circuit board schematics for public. So, that's why I gave up on trying and made this psu in the video.
@@bmwsolutions7880 this one looks really complicated tbh. A pity as it is a power house, 3kW of power on 12v with 244A max output. I will solder in a resistor to the left leg of the v-regulator pot and ground and I will see where it takes me. I will be happy with 13v. With this much power the voltage shouldn't drop even if I connect 3 cars to it at the same time lol. I came across this one on bitcoin farm forums as thy use it to power their graphics cards. £38 delivered. If I am not successful I will buy one of the ones which are know to be easily moddable and use this one as general 12v power supply/LED high power light rig driver.
Well good luck with your project, keep us updated on how it goes. 👍
@@bmwsolutions7880 All mostly done. Found a great youtube vid explaining the "electronics" behind what needed to be done to increase the voltage. I have a rather good grasp of physics but I have zero electronics background - I know how things should work in theory but no clue how to translate this into practice. To increase the voltage above for what the existing trimmer pot was designed for I needed to increase its resistance. This is normally done by adding a resistor in series. Not practical on a PCB using SMD components, not for me at least. Go back to basics. What does an adjustable resistor do? It drops the voltage - resistors are voltage dividers. If I cannot add a resistor what is the other way of lowering the voltage across that component? Bleed to negative in controlled manner! So by adding an adjustable pot to the left bottom leg of the SMD pot (fine tip soldering under magnifying glass) and negative point on the board I managed to do just that. So set the adjustable resistor just soldered in to max and turn the knob slowly to lower the resistance (increase the voltage "bleed"/drop) while observing the output 12v voltage on your multimeter. When it starts going up you this is when you stop. Also, set the PCB pot to min voltage first to give yourself room to crank it up. Disconnect the adjustable pot, measure the resistance it was set to and pick a solid resistor of a value close to it to solder in place - I had 1kOhm adjustable pot and soldered in 1,5kOhm in. Hey presto, it goes to 13.25V and then it trips. I have no way to remove the over voltage protection unfortunately. So I set it to 13.15V to stay on the safe side- set the max voltage with no load or you will not be able to turn it on without it. Then I made a load bank from lots of old car headlight bulbs (1kW load combined or 70Amps) to test the voltage drop. It went down to 12.95 on one bank only (PSU has two independent banks of 12v outputs with two sets of HV circuitry serving it) so it will be even less when I combine two banks together. Next step is to hook it up to the car and switch every single consumer unit possible in the accessory mode to confirm the voltage drop. I am waiting for some 100Amp cable to finish the job and will report back. Fingers crossed :)
Sounds you've been busy with lots of work mate🤠 but remember that programming doesn't work below 13volt. And the voltage fluctuates during programming sessions. That's why I set mine to 14.2volt which drops down to 13.5 during full load. Let me know the end result when you're done with testing it. Good luck again
what are you programming?
will the PD19 work also?
Hi Aaron, there are many other server PSUs available. For example some Dell ones at 1400W or a potential 100Amps +. What's the biggest hurdle in modding any of these to output 14.5v? Is it overcoming the overvolt protection circuits?
I totally understand your agony on modifying different brands and models of PSUs but I had to go with this particular model as I couldn't find enough solid information on anything else to modify. Nevertheless, this mod worked just fine for me and created a reference point for those who want to save time and hassle to get going without any headache.
here is a list, if anyone else needs it in the future, scroll down a little bit to PSU PINOUT
translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fforum.bits.media%2Findex.php%3F%252Ftopic%252F10447-%25D1%2580%25D0%25B0%25D1%2581%25D0%25BF%25D0%25B8%25D0%25BD%25D0%25BE%25D0%25B2%25D0%25BA%25D0%25B0-%25D0%25B8-%25D0%25BF%25D1%2580%25D0%25BE%25D1%2587%25D0%25B8%25D0%25B5-%25D1%2582%25D0%25BE%25D0%25BD%25D0%25BA%25D0%25BE%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D0%25B8-%25D0%25BD%25D0%25B0%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D1%2580%25D0%25BE%25D0%25B9%25D0%25BA%25D0%25B8-%25D1%2581%25D0%25B5%25D1%2580%25D0%25B2%25D0%25B5%25D1%2580%25D0%25BD%25D1%258B%25D1%2585-%25D0%25B1%25D0%25BF%252Fhttp%3A%2F%2F
Thanks for sharing👍 it is a complicated and long process to gather information on a PSU project, so hope it helps people.
What is the resistor values for 75k and 15k in terms of 1/2watt or 1/4watt? +/- 1%??? For each? I can't read the resistor values on the screen. Any help would be greatly appreciated sir.
They're all 1/4 Watt
@@bmwsolutions7880 what would happen if it was 1/2 watt instead of 1/4 watt?
@@steveallam won't have any effect
Hi. What is the pin34 bridge?
Awesome video and informations , great work ! Are you able to make one and resale ? DM please for details
Thanks 👍 unfortunately it was just a diy project for myself.
@@bmwsolutions7880 Thankyou , understood .
I just ordered two HP 1200w 498152-001 model number:HTNS-PL11 I was wondering if anyone knows how to raise the voltage to 14.4 on this model. I'm looking to run these in parallel. 🙂
That's the reason I went for PD11 model, Information is very limited on modifications but you can try USA based rc forums.
@@bmwsolutions7880 I saw one video that shows the resistors and how to place them. Except it's very difficult to see on my phone I may need to break out the laptop to see. 😊
Good luck mate, hope you get it done soon. Keep us updated on your work 👌
@@bmwsolutions7880 Some people are still working on mods for this model so will have to see. 🙂
@@paulzedx636ninja7 have you mooded your power supply for that voltage mine is the same pl11 and still seeking help how to do it propely
🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷👏🏻👏🏻, Awesome vídeo !
Many thanks 👋
Hi there will a PD19 model also work?
Hi, I haven't tried any other model.
Can i use 2 resistors in series to achieve 15 and 75k ? like 10k + 5k and 68k and 7k ?
Technically it should be fine
Yep, totally worked, thanks for the vid mate
Do you have maybe a picture how exactly to wire up the shunt? Because i can t figure out😥🙈
I screwed one side of the shunt to negative terminal and other side is connected to cut off switch. Unfortunately you can't really see it in the video because it's all wrapped up with electrical tape. It looks like a sausage just between the power supply and cut off switch if you look carefully.
@@bmwsolutions7880 thank you very much helpful video🙏👌 one more think about the resistor ..they are 75kohm at 0.6watts?
@@bmwsolutions7880 any ideea if hstns pl11 could be modded the same way ....beacuse my supplier sent me pl11 not pd11 and i can t send it back
hello.. could you make a power supply for me? how can I contact you?
Hi 👋 I'm sorry but I don't make these to sell. However, I have seen people selling online or ebay. Have a look please.
All the best ✌
@@bmwsolutions7880 couldn't find anything.. maybe I didn't search correctly.. thank you for such a fast reply
Unfortunately these PD11 PSU’s seem to be in short supply and high price now. Not sure whether to blame you or the damned crypto miners. Anyway, do you have any suggestions for alternative power supplies that aren’t currently in short supply? Thanks
Sorry to hear that really, it must be frustrating😬 it is a popular psu among many including RC communities and all other for being open to modifications. I tried a few other HP psu mods without success, so looks like this is still the best option as of now.
Hey Aaron where is pin 34 located for the bridge to be made in between the two power units? Thank you for getting g back to me about the resistors your a true champ! Never mind i found heres the link is anyone wants to know... www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36523697&postcount=3709
Hi, I think it is clearly shown on the second PPt with blue arrow lines. Also it can be seen between pin 33 and 36
@@bmwsolutions7880 I was watching on my phone it's so small and the dark blue just looked like it was connecting the power supplies but I wasn't sure of the location. I thought it was some where internally connected. My mistake. Thank you Aaron.
Has anyone cooked their car using one of these? 14.2v seems a lot?
What is your prediction based on? Any references or guidance that make you say that?
@@bmwsolutions7880 hey mate, just looking for some confirmation, naturally I'm worried about connecting something to my car which isn't BMW endorsed, it wouldn't be good if I fried the computers in the car that would cost some $$$$ to fix. That being said it seems to work well for you. I assume that it's still working well? I have access to 6-8 of these PSUs so I'm considering following you guide.
I think the conformation you're looking for is in the video with all details. I wouldn't recommend such a complicated and possibly dangerous work to fry up people's ecus 👍 I have also tried both single and double psus on different cars and they've been just fine. Nevertheless, I'd still recommend you to carry out a detailed research online to have a better understanding of this work. All the best 👍
Oke, great video..i have 1200SB power supply..hope this work for me too..any way, thank you fir sharing\♧
Woodpecker! Why did you get into programming with this piece of crap!?
Then you will run around crap and shout “save, help - half the blocks on board the BMW have burned out”...
Hello i have the same specific unit I did everything according to this guide. I have set it to 14.2V when I connect power supply to car the green led shuts off and psu is giving zero amps what can be wrong?? When i connect it to old car battery it gives 3.0Amps. Thanks