This is a really good video, bravo! I wasn't confident enough to disassemble mine, so I put a tiny drop of sewing machine oil behind the ring to reconstitute the grease, it worked marvelously.
Thank you very, very much. I just got a Summitar with a very stiff aperture ring and had it fixed in five minutes after watching your video, it's now silky smooth.
Thank you for this. My new Leica IIIb + Summitar 5cm 1:2 lens arrived today, and the aperture ring was on upside down. A very easy fix after watching this video.
Hi :) Thank you so much for taking the time making tutorials and sharing the knowledge! I tried it on my Summitar copy, but it seems I have 1939 f12.5 version... not the same front assembly :/ Front optics are two seperate elements, I'm not able to remove the lower part and access aperture. So far I haven't found any info on that particular version's assembly. Would you happen to know how? Or to point me to the right tutorial ;) Many great Thanks :)
Hello! I am sadly not familiar with this version. I would suggest you to look up some Leica/vintage camera repair groups on Facebook or similar. Good luck! :)
@@Libsenth Thanks for the hint :) I'll look into it. Though it seems applying couple drops of 90% alcohol on the aperture setting ring did the trick for now. Most likely some old dirt there. But at one point complete cleaning and relub will sure do no harm ;) I also 3D printed an adapter and front cap and made some tests shots. Such A Lens!! Cheers :)
@@iomDaiom That's really cool! Alcohol can re-activate old grease, but it may also make it so thin it starts floating around. But I've had good success with this technique before. Good job!
This video should have a BIG warning on it. Once you are fiddling with the black part, 90% of the people doing this, will end up with aperture-blades all over the place. For anyone having this problem, take note of the shape of the visible part of the blades here, it is the quare (not the round) part that is suppose to show. Once you know that, it is about putting them back in, over the other, until you need to start lifting the first blades. Be very careful, use toothpicks (and drop something down on the glass, to prevent scratching. It is a bit tricky, but once you start laying the aperture-blades in the correct orientation, it is actually doable in 30 minutes.
maybe you can give me some advice: i have the problem, that the aperture ring does not fit the black dot mark for the aperture. instead of going from 2 to 16 its more like 1,8 to 11. everything works pretty fine, there is just this issue and i dont know how to solve it
@@willbert7715 That sounds extremely weird, like there are non-original blades, perhaps? I don't know (just opening and reassemble this one was quite a task that I was quick to move on from :D ). Is the aperture closing to minimum and opening to max? Then it might be a non-original aperture ring or some unoriginal parts that was replaced, causing a misalignment with the numbers. I would probably try to post something on photrino on this, with photos, because there are people there who intimately know these lenses much better than me.
Don't use oil, as it will be too runny. Especially sewing machine oil. You need some proper grease. I have no specific recommendation. Ones that they use for RC cars works well.
Very clear to see and well explained. I have the same older version, actually works very smooth, but has an small area at the side of the rear elements of haze, or dried condensation? Hope it’s not separation. How do I get to the back group elements? Thanks
I'm afraid I've never looked more into this lens than shown in the video. But there's lots of good resources online, try googling for it - I'm sure you'll find something!
I'm having trouble removing the aperture ring, after removing the two screws. I don't want to use any tools on it. Could I safely wipe a little naphtha or alcohol around the outside to try to loosen it?
My lens has dirt between the 1. and 2. element. I managed to open it up, but dissasembling the front element does not work. How am I supposed to open it? Just with friction or is there some hidden skrew? How does the front element look when dissasembled? Could you give me some advice how to tackle it?
Some Summitars has those elements wedged together by a metal flange you will need to open up to separate them - and then when you put them back together you will have to flange it back together sadly.
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial. Just received my lens I purchased for from eBay, and the lens aperture ring is very stiff, I followed your instructions but unfortunately the front lens part also is very stiff and couldn’t remove it, is there any tool that I can use to open it?
Hi! There's no reason the front lens group shouldn't come off. Try using a cloth or some rubber bands around to get a better grip and twist. Remember: righty tighty, lefty loosy.
@@GeorgiosKalaydjian There's no reason it shouldn't come of. I'd keep trying, and maybe get a water pump plier and caaarefully try to unscrew with the added torque. Add some cloth or something between the lens and the pliers though, to protect it.
@@LibsenthI used the rubber band, and successfully I opened it, after the cleaning I blow the air on the lens below the blades, and unfortunately the blades flew and till now I am not able to put them back 😢
Thanks for sharing! Any experience (or have you at least tried) to open up the front lens assembly? Being able to remove it in one piece is good to know, but I would need to clean the lenses inside of it (lots of dust inside that should not be there) …
Hi Christian! Sadly, the front two lens elements in the front group are attached by rolling the metal housing over the edges.You will have to bend the metal back to free the elements, and then bend it back over to clean it. I've read various ways to re-attach it on forums, but I personally have never dared to try.
@@Libsenth Hi Huxy! Thanks for this important information - good to know, I wouldn't dare to do it myself (and I know nobody who would). Good that I decided to not buy the lens. These old constructions have their downsides when it comes to servicing and cleaning.
@@c.augustin Absolutely. I do believe I read something about that they changed it on the late Summitars, but I can't remember if they changed it to the better or not.
Actually most of the dirt is because of the flacking black paint/glue. The front prism has 3 elements, first 2 are cimented. You can unscrue the first 2 elements and it can be cleaned inside. The first 2 may have little dust inside, as mine, but thats not a big deal. I did saw a 2 part video on you tube on another old leitz lens, when I searched summitar. Mine is 55#.### series. Great video by the way.
Another question, is there any chance that when re assembling that the aperture stop numbers could be out of sequence, even when the screws are slotted in, with the actual aperture settings. Or put it another way the lens aperture ring in set to say 5.6 but the actual aperture is something different?
Hi again, and sorry for the late reply. The only way it can be a different value than indicated is if the aperture indicating ring has been put on the wrong way.
i have a simular summitar, with the aperture f2 to f 16 lens, and it has a slight haze, what do you suggest to clean the lens? i wish i had seen this vid eariler, as i had the stuck aperture ring, and i paid to have it freed. i hope i can deal with the haze myself.
@@Kalides Hi! I'm quite unsure to be honest. The two front elements are attached together. On some lenses, this is done by prying metal over one and forcing them together - but I have sadly never looked into this. I know there's some resources online, try googling and good luck! :)
OK Huxy thanks for taking the time to respond, a very interesting upload as I have one with the same problem but the iris leaves are corroded! I have often wondered how they came apart.
You should fix the aperture blades! After you have taken out the inner barrel, you can easily lift out each blade (maybe with a pair of tweezers) and fix them up. There's nothing holding them in place. Getting them back together can be somewhat tricky, since they have to be put on top of each other and under the next one :)
This is a really good video, bravo! I wasn't confident enough to disassemble mine, so I put a tiny drop of sewing machine oil behind the ring to reconstitute the grease, it worked marvelously.
@@aidanhowgate5437 that’s awesome to hear! It’s always easiest when small, non-intrusive fixes work.
Thank you very, very much. I just got a Summitar with a very stiff aperture ring and had it fixed in five minutes after watching your video, it's now silky smooth.
Another one saved! Congratulations. Treat it well :)
I sure do miss your how to videos on building scale models. I learned some helpful techniques. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this. My new Leica IIIb + Summitar 5cm 1:2 lens arrived today, and the aperture ring was on upside down. A very easy fix after watching this video.
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad the video helps :)
Thank you! Thanks to your help my Leica IIIc is back on the job again!
This is the best kind of comment to read! I'm very happy to hear, enjoy using it!
Thats the round iris version, the domed iris is very different.
Hi :) Thank you so much for taking the time making tutorials and sharing the knowledge!
I tried it on my Summitar copy, but it seems I have 1939 f12.5 version... not the same front assembly :/
Front optics are two seperate elements, I'm not able to remove the lower part and access aperture.
So far I haven't found any info on that particular version's assembly.
Would you happen to know how? Or to point me to the right tutorial ;)
Many great Thanks :)
Hello! I am sadly not familiar with this version. I would suggest you to look up some Leica/vintage camera repair groups on Facebook or similar. Good luck! :)
@@Libsenth Thanks for the hint :) I'll look into it. Though it seems applying couple drops of 90% alcohol on the aperture setting ring did the trick for now. Most likely some old dirt there. But at one point complete cleaning and relub will sure do no harm ;) I also 3D printed an adapter and front cap and made some tests shots. Such A Lens!! Cheers :)
@@iomDaiom That's really cool! Alcohol can re-activate old grease, but it may also make it so thin it starts floating around. But I've had good success with this technique before. Good job!
Hey, Thank you for de Video. The Leica Summar from 1938 is the same construction (front Lens)
This video should have a BIG warning on it.
Once you are fiddling with the black part, 90% of the people doing this, will end up with aperture-blades all over the place.
For anyone having this problem, take note of the shape of the visible part of the blades here, it is the quare (not the round) part that is suppose to show.
Once you know that, it is about putting them back in, over the other, until you need to start lifting the first blades.
Be very careful, use toothpicks (and drop something down on the glass, to prevent scratching.
It is a bit tricky, but once you start laying the aperture-blades in the correct orientation, it is actually doable in 30 minutes.
maybe you can give me some advice: i have the problem, that the aperture ring does not fit the black dot mark for the aperture.
instead of going from 2 to 16 its more like 1,8 to 11. everything works pretty fine, there is just this issue and i dont know how to solve it
@@willbert7715 That sounds extremely weird, like there are non-original blades, perhaps? I don't know (just opening and reassemble this one was quite a task that I was quick to move on from :D ). Is the aperture closing to minimum and opening to max? Then it might be a non-original aperture ring or some unoriginal parts that was replaced, causing a misalignment with the numbers.
I would probably try to post something on photrino on this, with photos, because there are people there who intimately know these lenses much better than me.
Thank you! Just saved me a CLA>
Happy to hear!!
Very clear, plan to try it in near future! What grease do you recommend? Would sewing machine oil work?
Don't use oil, as it will be too runny. Especially sewing machine oil. You need some proper grease. I have no specific recommendation. Ones that they use for RC cars works well.
Very clear to see and well explained. I have the same older version, actually works very smooth, but has an small area at the side of the rear elements of haze, or dried condensation? Hope it’s not separation. How do I get to the back group elements? Thanks
I'm afraid I've never looked more into this lens than shown in the video. But there's lots of good resources online, try googling for it - I'm sure you'll find something!
I'm having trouble removing the aperture ring, after removing the two screws. I don't want to use any tools on it. Could I safely wipe a little naphtha or alcohol around the outside to try to loosen it?
My lens has dirt between the 1. and 2. element. I managed to open it up, but dissasembling the front element does not work. How am I supposed to open it? Just with friction or is there some hidden skrew? How does the front element look when dissasembled? Could you give me some advice how to tackle it?
Some Summitars has those elements wedged together by a metal flange you will need to open up to separate them - and then when you put them back together you will have to flange it back together sadly.
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial.
Just received my lens I purchased for from eBay, and the lens aperture ring is very stiff, I followed your instructions but unfortunately the front lens part also is very stiff and couldn’t remove it, is there any tool that I can use to open it?
Hi! There's no reason the front lens group shouldn't come off. Try using a cloth or some rubber bands around to get a better grip and twist. Remember: righty tighty, lefty loosy.
@@Libsenth I tried but still very stiff
@@GeorgiosKalaydjian There's no reason it shouldn't come of. I'd keep trying, and maybe get a water pump plier and caaarefully try to unscrew with the added torque. Add some cloth or something between the lens and the pliers though, to protect it.
@@Libsenth I really appreciate your response and kindness.
I will try this once I return home in a couple of hours, and will keep you posted.
@@LibsenthI used the rubber band, and successfully I opened it, after the cleaning I blow the air on the lens below the blades, and unfortunately the blades flew and till now I am not able to put them back 😢
Do you know of any videos that show a proper way of disassembling a sumicron 50?
No I don't I'm afraid. :(
Any advice / further reading on a wobbly summitar lens?
Thanks for sharing! Any experience (or have you at least tried) to open up the front lens assembly? Being able to remove it in one piece is good to know, but I would need to clean the lenses inside of it (lots of dust inside that should not be there) …
Hi Christian! Sadly, the front two lens elements in the front group are attached by rolling the metal housing over the edges.You will have to bend the metal back to free the elements, and then bend it back over to clean it. I've read various ways to re-attach it on forums, but I personally have never dared to try.
@@Libsenth Hi Huxy! Thanks for this important information - good to know, I wouldn't dare to do it myself (and I know nobody who would). Good that I decided to not buy the lens. These old constructions have their downsides when it comes to servicing and cleaning.
@@c.augustin Absolutely. I do believe I read something about that they changed it on the late Summitars, but I can't remember if they changed it to the better or not.
Actually most of the dirt is because of the flacking black paint/glue. The front prism has 3 elements, first 2 are cimented. You can unscrue the first 2 elements and it can be cleaned inside.
The first 2 may have little dust inside, as mine, but thats not a big deal.
I did saw a 2 part video on you tube on another old leitz lens, when I searched summitar.
Mine is 55#.### series.
Great video by the way.
Another question, is there any chance that when re assembling that the aperture stop numbers could be out of sequence, even when the screws are slotted in, with the actual aperture settings. Or put it another way the lens aperture ring in set to say 5.6 but the actual aperture is something different?
Hi again, and sorry for the late reply. The only way it can be a different value than indicated is if the aperture indicating ring has been put on the wrong way.
Just to be sure, you only grease the inside of the aperture ring correct?
i have a simular summitar, with the aperture f2 to f 16 lens, and it has a slight haze, what do you suggest to clean the lens? i wish i had seen this vid eariler, as i had the stuck aperture ring, and i paid to have it freed. i hope i can deal with the haze myself.
it is later than your lens ser 722755
@@Kalides Hi! I'm quite unsure to be honest. The two front elements are attached together. On some lenses, this is done by prying metal over one and forcing them together - but I have sadly never looked into this. I know there's some resources online, try googling and good luck! :)
where do I apply the grease?
It is to be applied on the threads that move the optics in and out for focusing, as per the video :)
а как разобрать его полностью?
What sort of grease are you using?
northstar1950 I used an old grease I've had for a long, long time. It's unnamed, sadly.
OK Huxy thanks for taking the time to respond, a very interesting upload as I have one with the same problem but the iris leaves are corroded! I have often wondered how they came apart.
You should fix the aperture blades! After you have taken out the inner barrel, you can easily lift out each blade (maybe with a pair of tweezers) and fix them up. There's nothing holding them in place. Getting them back together can be somewhat tricky, since they have to be put on top of each other and under the next one :)
Once again thanks for the advice.