had a question maybe you could help with. I have a GE Electric range and the front right dual burner will not turn on at all . . .and also the warning hot surface light stays on all the time as well even when surface is cold. . . .with the range plugged in and the knob turned on i take a multimeter and go between the leads on the element and I DO NOT HAVE 240V at the element where as when the other 3 burners are on i have 240v between the terminals on the element. DO you think the element is bad or the limiter switch is bad.
I was trying to replace a burner regulator on my Samsung (model NE59M4320SS) and gave up as I was unable to pull out one of the Molex connectors from the old regulator (the white connector with the double red wire). It just wouldn't come out no matter how hard I pulled, so eventually I just stopped as I was afraid to damage the connector. All the other wires came out pretty easily. Just for comparison, I also tried to pull out that same connector from the other fast boil burner regulator and it would not come out either. I am thinking it must be designed this way and there is probably some kind of an inside lock or something, but I just cannot figure it out. Any advice?
Had the issue of the front-right double burner going on full high with both burners. Bought this switch from repair clinic and just put it in. WORKS! YEAH. Full burner control of both inside and outside at any temperature setting. Thought you might like to know that as I read unanswered questions on this same problem.
@@angiepl1 It is called "Repair Clinic" . Double check this link and part as I just looked into the history of what I shopped for on this computer and this came up. There are two models of the switch. One is for the rear single burner and the one I got for the double front burner. Think this is right but check.
Yes, this fix worked for me. My burner would always be on max heat, no matter what setting I turned it on. After replacing the switch, it works on heat levels low - high.
Hey, thanks for the video! I’m trying to install the left large burner. Trouble is, on the left burner, the blue original part has 8 terminals. The new genuine Samsung part has 7. It has a yellow wire going into a second terminal in # 4, but nowhere to put it on the new parts. I have read that Samsung had an “engineering change” but I can’t get an answer on how to rewire it. Any advice would be great!
@@nasimarahman2405 I bought a another clip for the terminal, one big enough to handle twisting the yellow into it also. Working so far. My aux outlet on the top has stopped working but I think I must have bumped that loose. Haven’t checked that out yet
I have a question. I was wondering if you could help me out. I have a Samsung range and the front left dual element burner is messed up. When I only try to turn on the inside element the outside element will come on as well and both elements will not go off and on and off and on etc like they are supposed to. It gets too hot to cook with. It burns the food. Does it sound like it might be the infinite switch or something else?
Yep for sure that’s the switch. It’s a common problem. I’ve replaced one already. The trouble I’m having now is the switches now only come with 7 terminals. Trying to find out how to wire the 8th wire into it. You could try to find an older blue one with 8 terminals
@@andrewpurvis5154 actually it was for a different models from yours I think. It was a Samsung NE59M6850SS. And I think there were 7 terminals on it, but that's how many my original switch had. I did get the idea on how to fix it from your video though. Thanks again. It was a super easy fix and I think I only ended up paying about $34 for it.
I don't see where you plug the missing connection on the new switch,
can you show me
Were the Wires on the right side of the switch replaced on the wrong terminals on purpose? Or do we replace according to the we're going to replace?
had a question maybe you could help with. I have a GE Electric range and the front right dual burner will not turn on at all . . .and also the warning hot surface light stays on all the time as well even when surface is cold. . . .with the range plugged in and the knob turned on i take a multimeter and go between the leads on the element and I DO NOT HAVE 240V at the element where as when the other 3 burners are on i have 240v between the terminals on the element. DO you think the element is bad or the limiter switch is bad.
can you please tel me wish is samsung model is ? thanks
I was trying to replace a burner regulator on my Samsung (model NE59M4320SS) and gave up as I was unable to pull out one of the Molex connectors from the old regulator (the white connector with the double red wire). It just wouldn't come out no matter how hard I pulled, so eventually I just stopped as I was afraid to damage the connector. All the other wires came out pretty easily. Just for comparison, I also tried to pull out that same connector from the other fast boil burner regulator and it would not come out either. I am thinking it must be designed this way and there is probably some kind of an inside lock or something, but I just cannot figure it out. Any advice?
Had the issue of the front-right double burner going on full high with both burners. Bought this switch from repair clinic and just put it in.
WORKS! YEAH. Full burner control of both inside and outside at any temperature setting. Thought you might like to know that as I read unanswered questions on this same problem.
what is the part number ? I'm having the same issue with the same burner on my samsung ne59m6850ss.
@@angiepl1
It is called "Repair Clinic" . Double check this link and part as I just looked into the history of what I shopped for on this computer and this came up. There are two models of the switch. One is for the rear single burner and the one I got for the double front burner. Think this is right but check.
I have this same issue with both front burners. Where did you get the switch?
Dis not reconnect the left wires at the same place why ?
Is that the only thing that would cause the burner to only operate on high?
I would like to know this also
Yes, this fix worked for me. My burner would always be on max heat, no matter what setting I turned it on. After replacing the switch, it works on heat levels low - high.
@@homer8121 thanks - worked for me too
Worked for me
What is the name of the connector that slips onto the terminal switch?
Been looking all night for that. I think it is called "90 degree quick disconnect terminal". I am now trying to determine what gauge to buy.
Hey, thanks for the video! I’m trying to install the left large burner. Trouble is, on the left burner, the blue original part has 8 terminals. The new genuine Samsung part has 7. It has a yellow wire going into a second terminal in # 4, but nowhere to put it on the new parts. I have read that Samsung had an “engineering change” but I can’t get an answer on how to rewire it. Any advice would be great!
I am having the same issue. Please let me know what to do the yellow wire. It will be a great help.
@@nasimarahman2405 I bought a another clip for the terminal, one big enough to handle twisting the yellow into it also. Working so far. My aux outlet on the top has stopped working but I think I must have bumped that loose. Haven’t checked that out yet
I have a question. I was wondering if you could help me out. I have a Samsung range and the front left dual element burner is messed up. When I only try to turn on the inside element the outside element will come on as well and both elements will not go off and on and off and on etc like they are supposed to. It gets too hot to cook with. It burns the food. Does it sound like it might be the infinite switch or something else?
Yep for sure that’s the switch. It’s a common problem. I’ve replaced one already. The trouble I’m having now is the switches now only come with 7 terminals. Trying to find out how to wire the 8th wire into it. You could try to find an older blue one with 8 terminals
@@andrewpurvis5154 I bought mine used on eBay used for a pretty low price and it still works great
@@djrutherford3926 cool, was it blue? With 8 terminals I’m assuming?
I’m in Canada and also have a new one in hand so hoping someone can solve it for me
@@andrewpurvis5154 actually it was for a different models from yours I think. It was a Samsung NE59M6850SS. And I think there were 7 terminals on it, but that's how many my original switch had. I did get the idea on how to fix it from your video though. Thanks again. It was a super easy fix and I think I only ended up paying about $34 for it.
one of the wires is burnt. how do i fix that?
Thank you!
The worst oven in the world (Samsung )
Thanks
Thanks!