How To Test Your Radiant Surface Element & Wire Limiter
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- This video shows how to test range cooktop radiant surface elements and element limiters, the differences between newer and old style limiters and how to wire the limiter, and what the function of the element limiter is and how it works.
If the radiant surface element stops working, it can stop heating all together or cause just one of the heating coils to stop heating. Following the instructions in this video you can properly test the element to confirm if it has failed.
A common question we come across is how to install a new element when the limiter is different. Or some people try to wire it incorrectly and the new element won't heat and the hot surface indicator light turns on but the new burner doesn't heat up. The information in the video should clear up the answers to these questions.
If you find that you have a radiant surface element you can shop for a new one on our online store by searching with your range or cooktops model number, or entering the part number off of the radiant surface element here: partsdr.com/app... We sell new OEM appliance parts for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Estate, Roper, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Tappan, Westinghouse, Kitchen Aid, Jenn Air, Bosch, LG, Samsung, and more.
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If you found this video helpful please click the thumbs up button and leave us a comment below. - Навчання та стиль
Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you. I followed another guy's video guide for the installation and when I plugged the oven back in the wall my hot surface indicator light was on. I search a bit on the subject. As suggested I tested my new switch for continuity thinking that this new element that I just bought my be faulty. Everything was ok. Unplugged everything, replugged. Same thing. I search again and found your video that specified that I should connect the wire to the same label terminal, not the physical location! Magical! Everything is working as it should now. Thank you again!
You are 100% correct! The key thing that people overlook is connecting the wires to the same labeled terminals regardless of the physical location. Nice job on getting it fixed!
Thank you solved my week long problem
I just replaced my large burner that wasn't working with a new burner that isn't working.
I connected the wires exactly to the same terminals as the old one.
I am pretty sure this video will fix the problem for me.
I've worked all day and I am tired, so I'll try this tomorrow and hopefully I'll have a working burner again.
which bit of the video is that could you write down the minutes to be specific please
@@sinanayenigul8731 The part the saved me was the wiring diagram located at 2:57 but honestly the whole video is good to watch for our problem.
My stove/burner is 23 years old and they are making/wiring the replacement burners differently now.
Even though the male prongs are in the same place on the replacement burners, you can not reconnect the wires from the old burner to the new burner wire for wire. It simply will *NOT* work even though from the outside they look the same. The manufacturer has changed something on the inside that we can't see.
Along with watching this video, I studied the wiring diagram in this video and was finally able to wire it up correctly and the burner works fine now.
I am not an electrician so it took me a while to make sense out of what I was looking at, and then something finally clicked in my head and then it all made sense to me. I rewired it and it all works as it should now.
Good luck.
How to distinguish terminals with tricks, how to connect the wires. AND also, wiring diagram + disassembly photos to explain how it works.
Well done Pro!!!!
Appreciate from an electrical engineer👍👍👍
Glad we could help!
Well done and very helpful. Crazy that we have this knowledge at our fingertips now. Back in the day a trip to the library and a ton of frustration might have resulted in nothing but wasted time. Here it is, model specific, at home and instant satisfaction. Thanks
We agree with you! It is amazing the amount of knowledge available at our fingertips!
The new element I bought didn't have small wire terminals(all 3 terminals were large), so I had to bend/expand the clip to make it fit the large wire terminals. After plugging everything back in and turning on, only the hot surface indicator light would turn on, and the element wasn't heating up. So I thought maybe I broke the wire clips. I didn't know what to do, and thought maybe I have to purchase new wires. Then I found this video!!! It was a miracle!!! It turns out that the layout was different and all I had to do was to rearrange the wires!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!! The information in this video was spot on. I didn't even know I didn't know until I watched your video. It was exactly what I missed!! THANK YOU!!
Great! Glad you found this video and got it figured out!
P
Finally a video about testing the limiter. Thank you.
We're glad you found it helpful!
I liked how you showed and explained what was on the multimeter. It makes it easier to understand what the results should be. Thank you.
That is great to hear! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. In this video you helped clear up some unclear instructions from Whirlpool that came with the replacement element. Successful installation.
Great! We are glad that we could help!
Great instructional video. Simple language, easy to follow. I missed a trick in noticing the terminal names and tried to match the old and new wiring based on the positioning which made me think that the product was faulty. This video popped up out of nowhere the day before I was about to return the item. Saved me almost $130 and may be some embarrassment when i take it back to the shop. Thanks a lot
We are glad you found the video helpful! We commonly see people overlook matching up the 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B from the old to new element. We hope this video helps people get the element installed and working properly.
Excellent information. Finally someone took time to explain these. Thank you very much.
Great! Glad we could help!
Thank you. The section at 3:07 was very helpful. My new burner had the terminals in a different orientation as you described.
I did not know that the terminals would be different on my replacement burner, thank you so much. I almost thought I threw $300 down the drain.
Happy to hear that you found answer here. The different wiring between the new and old burners throws off a lot of people.
@@PartsDr this is probably my problem. I’ve replaced the burners twice and a switch, and it still doesn’t work. I need to go back and check the wiring for the burner on my mom’s stove.
I had it wired incorrectly! This fixed it, thanks!!
I have been searching for information on the electrical terminals on the new GE WB30T10132 which is the only element available for my older GE profile radiant cooktop. Unfortunately, the new element has two more terminals than the old one, I was not sure what the significant of the two new terminals of the new element. As it turns out, I was able to match up the right terminals for the heating elements but I was curious what the other two are for. This video laid it out clearly at 2:58, the other two are really just for the heating indicator light, which I don't need because my cooktop has a separate circuit for that light. It is also important that he showed how to test the terminals to make sure they are working properly. Good job!
Great to hear! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for completing the puzzle! Once I found 1b, 2a etc I connected the correct wires and presto! Another appliance saved from the Eco center!
Great to hear this helped you out! The 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b thing can really throw you off if you don't connect the wires to the correct terminals.
@@PartsDr ya gotta have good eyes to see those tiny engraved letters 😆
Great video and labeling. It is the best I found, but not helpful for my unique situation. My heating element will heat, then die 10 seconds in. I bought replacement, but same issue.
If you turn the element on high with no pan on the glass top to heat up, the element will turn off pretty quickly because the limiter on the burner will turn off the burner to protect it from getting too hot.
Great video with clear concise instruction . Thank you
You're welcome!
Very helpful. You indicated the 1a , 1b etc labels which came useful since the GE replacement element I got was a newer updated type with the small and large terminals in different locations from the original.
Excellent! We are glad you got it wired correctly!
Thanks, buddy. I didn't want to disassemble the burner just to test continuity and didn't know what that third prong/limiter was.
Great! Glad you found it helpful!
What a wonderful tutorial. Thank you so much!
We are glad you found it helpful!
Thank you SO much. This was exactly what I needed.
Great!!!
Very important tips about radiant cook top . Thanks
Thank u Мужик потратил два дня , пока непосмотрел твое видио . Помог понять почему новый элемент неработает.
Наконец то польза от Ютуба.
Glad it helped you out!
My dual element similar to those in this video has another sensor probe from opposite side which went bad. No continuity on the probe. Prevented the element from working. Had to replace entire element.
Great vid. Need to do this today
Very useful information
Thank you
You're welcome!
Great info. Thank you!
We're glad you found it helpful!
I have a Kenmore electric touch pad stove the larger element stays on high doesn't go lower or turns off, one of the clip that goes into the element looks burn..i think its the heating terminal one. i did the continuity test you show and one terminal made the beeping noise, but the other did not. but shows a higher number but not over 100 or lower than 30.like 47
Excellent. At last a clear explanation. 1500w element not working. A belling touch . I don't hear the switch clicking on when I want to use element. Initially element worked intermittent, but no longer, going by your video I think it's not the element?
Think I need a new limiter
It doesn't sound like a bad element from your description of the problem. If the burner uses an infinite switch it may be a bad infinite switch or some newer ranges/cooktops use a control board in place of an infinite switch that can also go bad.
I have a whirlpool dual infinite switch ,as soon as I turn it on it blew the breaker .what could be shorted ? Is it the limiter ,coil in the burner or the switch ? Thanks ☺️
So helpful. Thank you!
Can the limiter switch alone be replaced or does the whole element have to go?
The limiter is not sold separately, it is only sold as part of the heating element assembly.
I have a bad limiter ( 1b & 2b are closed). Will this keep my element from turning on? If so, can I replace just the limiter?
If 1b & 2b are closed all of the time, the hot surface indicator light would be light constantly. That usually will not stop the element from turning on.
Would there be any other switch or safety breaker that could be my problem. I have a good double element but only one element works.
Yes, sometimes the surface burner switch (also called an infinite switch) can go bad and cause only part of the element to turn on.
Hi, it is possible to remove and replace limiter only ? Th top of the road is burned, and the element does'n work.
No, the limiter is only sold with the heating element burner assembly.
The lead bar (terminal), which bridges from the thermocouple / thermometer / limiter assembly to the power terminal (the "spaghetti" heating wires), is spot welded. The spot weld would have to be undone (difficult, but not impossible) in order to replace the units separately. Why was it spot welded? Ask GE.
@@artsnow8872 None of the manufacturers offer the limiter separately from what we have seen.
I have a vintage Tappan oven/cooktop model PV-4428G. The burners have 4 wires. They are not manufactured now. Is it possible to re-wire the connector to adapt to a two wire burner element or are you aware of where I can obtain a 6" 4 wire burner? Thanks
My old element, only has 3 connections (ground, 2 resistors) the new one has 5. On the first one, 1a and 1b are on one connection, while 2's the same. The new element has these separate, do I need to connect the 1's and 2's one the new element?
The new element should have the same number of spade terminals as the original. I don't think we can answer this question without seeing the differences of the new and old parts.
Would this element replacement fix an intermittent issue with a burner that stays in the on cycle too long? It's strange, as it doesn't happen all the time. But you have to stand and watch because it will burn your food if you're not paying attention.
That type of problem is usually caused by a bad surface burner switch (infinite switch).
Thanks you Sr
You're welcome!
Why does the limiter show no continuity from 2a to 2b at room temperature? It should show continuity. When the heat is turned on, the metal expands and the switch inside the limiter gets broken which is different from room temperature.
2a and 2b should never have continuity. Reference the chart at 3:04
Can I directly connect to elements
Do you actually need to remove the burner element to do the continuity checks, or can you just unplug the stove, and perform the continuity checks with the burner element still attached to the electrical connections?
To get accurate readings, you should disconnect the electrical connections while testing the element.
@@PartsDr Thanks
Mine is the outer coil work but the inside coil didn't work. I purchased a whole new element that look exactly the old one. The only thing differrent is the connector has a little change but I was able to correct it. After I installed it won't turn on.
Make sure to connect the wires to the labeled locations on the terminal block regardless of the physical location (1a to 1a, 2a to 2a, etc).
Great video. I love the detail. I haven't looked through all the comments, but for the ones I did read through I have not found one that describes my problem. I followed your instructions in the video, and I don't believe my dual-element burner is at fault because it does work intermittently. Sometimes initially it will come on when the control on the touch panel is set to 9 (or lower) and with either the single-element or the dual-element option selected. After 1 to many cycles (no set pattern) while I’m hearing what appears to be a relay clicking as it goes through its on/off cycles, it may or may not heat up and glow. Other times it does not come on at all. I believe I am looking at a problem with the control board, but can you help me narrow it down to which one, or if I’m on the right path? My electric range is an LG Model LRE3083ST. Thank You.
It sounds like you are on the right track. Most of the time the surface burner elements are either good or bad. It is very rare for one to act up intermittently. On your model LG it is usually the Relay Control Board that sends power to the surface element and that is most likely the problem. Let us know what you find. This is the board for your model here: partsdr.com/part/ebr74164805-control-board-assembly?model=LRE3083ST
the burner im having a problem with heats
up on high but when I try to maintain a medium
or medium high level of heat the burner
sometimes goes off And gose on Back again itself but it doesn't stay on when i want. And there is no video on youtube about that .. please help me about this .. thanks
Those types of symptoms are usually caused by a bad infinite burner switch.
Should the ohm reading be roughly the same between the two elements? I'm getting 57 on one element and 26 on the other for the large 12" burner. When the burner is turned on, you can feel heat for a few seconds then nothing at all. Does this sound like a bad element?
The ohm readings are usually different because they have different wattage ratings.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video but it doesn’t look like it is solving my problem. I have a whirlpool WFE505W0HS0 and my hot surface light stays on all the time. I don’t even have wires going to 1b and 2b so I feel as though my hot surface light isn’t set up the same. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Did this happen after installing a new surface element?
@@PartsDr no, the light just started to come on. It seemed it would stay on longer than normal and I should correct myself, the stove states “cooktop on” and “cooktop hot” but the stove is not on. All the heating elements work as they should. The lights just stay on.
@@jacobstrand9385 What is the model number of the range/cooktop?
@@PartsDr WFE505W0HS0 is the model number.
@@jacobstrand9385 The most common thing to fail and cause these types of symptoms is a bad burner switch.
Nice as far as it went, but one scenario it didn't address. It is what I call "short cycling" cutoff, and have yet to find a video that addresses the issue. Example, go to boil water, about to boil, nope...cut the heat and better luck next cycle, where will boil on other burners much quicker. Most videos show continuity test to determine if burner or switch is problem for not turning on. How do you rule out burner/limiter vs switch when it does turn on - thus shows continuity on both - but short cycles. Don't really want to buy both units - and potentially return one that wasn't the problem.
Hi Larry, that is a great question. That type of problem is very difficult to troubleshoot. Most technicians in the field would probably replace both parts. The only easy way we can think of to narrow down the problem is if you have two of the same burner or two of the same burner switch on your range, you could swap those parts around to figure out which one is the culprit. In general, with your symptoms, we see it more often caused by a failed burner switch. Let us know what you find.
Thanks for the info I almost sent it back, thanks to you I burnt my house down 😛 just kidin the range works great,keep up the wonderful video’s
Nice job!
very informative, thank you. So will there always be 1 N.O and 1 N.C set of contacts in the limiters?
All of the ones we have come across so far have been this way.
Parts Dr the burner turns on but runs full heat regardless of position then the burner turns off after a couple seconds. Have you seen a limiter behave like that?
These symptoms you are describing are usually caused by a bad infinite switch or if the stove doesn't use an infinite switch there is usually a control board that outputs the power to the burner that can go bad.
great video. i had a question. when using the cooktop, do the numbers next to the knobs correspond to specific temperatures? if not, i know the manual has information for the watts per surface element. is there a way to calculate the temperature of the surface element using this wattage information. thanks in advance.
No, it doesn't really work that way with surface elements.
@@PartsDr thank you for the reply. so i guess, other than using a thermometer, there is no way to calculate / predict the surface temperature of the cooktop ?
saludos amigo esos burner los puedo conectar directamente a los 220 voltios
Thanks again for the video it helped me fix my Samsung NE59J7651 however after I got the light fixed I put it on a self cleaning overnight and came back to a C-31 error on the screen and won't let me do anything with the screen. Heating surface still work but the oven won't. I checked the manual and it say over heated PCB, any advice?
Have you let the range cool down to see if the error goes away?
@@PartsDr I have tried that and even unplug the stove over night hoping it'd clear. But it did not
@@odomv1 that's not good! Off hand we don't have any experience with that error code. If you find the solution to the problem please let us know.
Ashroyer86 has accurately described the issues I have on my Kenmore radiant top stove. I am unable to locate a model number on the stove body anywhere. Is the limiter a universal part for this type of stove. Mine is approximately 7-8 years old. Thank you
The limiter is specific to each burner and they are only sold as part of the burner assembly. Here are the common locations to find the model number on your stove: partsdr.com/model-number-locator/range-stove-oven
My Daughter has the solid electric stove top burners. Not the coil type and not the glass top type either...The two left hand side of the stove top both burners work...however the two right hand side burners don't work..any idea's why ...
It sounds like they might be "euro style" burners. You should be able to test them with a multimeter to see if they are good or bad similar to the instructions shown in this video.
@@PartsDr Many Thanks...
Nice sir
Nice one sir
Do you sell only the elements or do you also sell the glass top cooker
We also sell the glass top if it is available from the manufacture.
@@PartsDr
You mean you sell the Hot Plate stove cooker
@@ifeanyimba9426 No we do not
@@PartsDr
am from Nigeria
What country are you from
Can you refer me to any good dealer like seller that you know.
@@ifeanyimba9426 We don't know of any dealers outside of the USA.
The front left burner on my LG LDE4415 turns on but gets super hot and stays there even when set on a low setting. The front right works correctly most of the time but occasionally gets super hot. Do you think this is a bad limiter in both elements or can it be a different issue?
Hi Fred, that doesn't sound like a bad element/limiter to us. That sounds like the control board that sends power to the elements may be bad. It may be part number PD00058534 based on the partial model number you provided. You will need to do some more troubleshooting to see if this is the cause of your problem.
Parts Dr Hello. I did not troubleshoot because I didn’t know how to do it. I opted to replace it. After I replaced the part that you recommended, the range worked for a couple of days. The problem just started again. The front left burner keeps heating whenever we use it. What do you think?
@@FredReaHomes P
ne59m4320sb samsung hot surface light on...what ya think?
Most commonly a bad infinite switch but it could also be a bad burner. If you test the burner per the instructions in the video and it tests good then replace the infinite switch.
E22. What mean ..haw fix it
B noche lo pueden poner en español