This was really good and I needed to know everything you suggested as mostly watching would be amateurs. Thank you, by the way I love your response to the negative post😊
Thank you for the video! We have solid wood doors that were a very dark stain. I painted them white, but did not prime first. What a huge mistake! So now I have to do it over. So I'm assuming I sand a bit, prime and paint again correct? I've heard to do a light sand in between coats to get a really smooth finish Is that necessary? Thank you!
If you continue to get bleed through on your doors then you’re probably going to need to prime with something like BIN shellac. That’s what we use when we convert stained trim and doors to painted. You can sand between coats if the finish feels rough. Just don’t sand after the last coat (obviously). Here’s a video on BIN in case you end up heading in that direction: ua-cam.com/video/MXzq60W6Gts/v-deo.htmlsi=4s0NqobeA5FXtgNA
This is exactly how it should be done. Anyone saying you should take off the door clearly doesn't get that as a professional painter, you pretty much won't get paint on the hardware. Plus its a lot easier and faster to paint while the doors hung, you get to do the whole thing without having any drips or finger marks afterwards.
The finger marks afterwards is a big consideration that most folks don’t think about. Also, if there’s a lot of doors, you often don’t have the space to stack them against the walls. Leave them hung and remove the door knobs if you feel like it. This is the way 🫡
@@almccallie4314yes it does. Better to roll on and brush out. Even better to take off, lay flat, that way the paint will float out nicely, but it does mean a bit of extra time handling each door. Not always practical.
Staining is quite a different process than painting. I just filmed a video this week where I show how to stain a wood door. That will be out soon. Here’s a video on staining stairs. That’s way closer to the process you’re talking about. Stain Stairs like a Pro ua-cam.com/video/wro_ABm9blg/v-deo.html
Please help! I have a cheap no panel hollow door that was originally painted with latex. Problem is my dog scratched the paint off in a 6"x 6" area at the bottom of the door showing the bare wood underneath. How do I prep the door to get rid of the edges where the paint flaked off? Will primer and two coats fix it?
I’d prime it with fresh start primer from Benjamin Moore. Then use wood filler or spackle to level out that area. Sand the repair, prime it again then go over it with you finish paint.
Great video! Ugh. Trying to fix to slight marks on beautiful door similar to this one. Guy at Sherwin-Williams told me to use a foam roller and it turned out like crap. I’m moving and it’s my friends door so I’m going to sand down the one panel, maybe the whole thing and do your process. I’ve painted a ton but not these really smooth doors. Should I just use 150 grit or something else then 150?
Use 150 grit and I wouldn’t use a foam roller. Try a 1/4 inch white nap roller cover and I’d got with emerald urethane, regular emerald semi-gloss or duration semi-gloss. Good luck!
I painted my door with a microfiber roller. The finish came out perfectly apart from the little fibers that stuck to the door. How do I prevent this when painting subsequent doors please? I used acrylic enamel paint,
You can use a piece of painters tape and use it to go over the surface area of a new roller cover. That will remove the majority of the loose fibers that usually get stuck in the paint.
I have this exact door, but the previous owner had stickers on the door and when the stickers were removed so was the paint. What would you do to fix that before repainting the door?
You should be good with 2 depending on the color and paint you’re using. If it looks good to you after 2 coats then you’re good. If they don’t look great do a 3rd.
Will the brush show the brush streaks ? I want to paint back (interior side) of my front door and think removing to spray is too much work but worried about brush streaks
If you use a brush to apply the product then you will have a hand brushed finish. The quality of that hand brushed finish will be determined by your skill level, the product you choose to use, and the brush you use to apply it. Emerald Urethane or Advance applied with a corona cortez or corona Vegas are great combos.
The top trim paints at SW are self leveling. Also, I use flotrol additive from home depot and it makes your paint smooth when using a brush. It doesn’t change the color of your paint either. I would never paint trim without it.
I messed up and painted the door with interior flat paint and then realized it looked like coated with chalk and I can see the streaks . The door was semi gloss initially. Can I paint a coat of semi gloss over it … and there are so many shades of white colors … is there a specific shade for doors
Appreciate the video. Came trying to see if we could paint doors while hung. We painted one side of each door twice (after having someone hang them), and didn’t want to pull them again to do the other side. 1: plenty for a newbie 2: never thought the door behind was messed up 3: why paint the top? Seems like a waste of time (suggested by someone else). Hoping our SW emerald comes out as good. Appreciate you. Oh and F the douches that just have to complain about something.
I’m doing all the doors and a fistful of drywall patches. 👊 Doors are cheaper than psychologists! 🤛 I got a Corona Cortez, Floetrol, and a big bag of hot mud! Thx for all you help, Sir. 😺
Hahaha, excellent!! Good luck with your project! If you get jammed up or need additional support you may want to check out our online community. You get direct access to having any questions answered by me and also our interior painting fundamentals course. No worries either way! www.skool.com/paint-your-home-now-7523/about
I live in a tiny condo and bought a new sliding door for my kitchen. It will save a lot of space taken up by the current door's swing. This is a one-time job for me so I'm hoping to hand sand and just use a paintbrush. It seems a waste to buy rollers I'll never use again.
That’s a good call. I brush a lot of doors and it works well. You may find this video useful: The Easy Paint Pattern to make Your Doors Look Amazing ua-cam.com/video/GAElZ7zTOpA/v-deo.html
I messed up and painted the door with Ultra Hide **interior flat paint and then realized it looked like coated with chalk and I can see the streaks . The door was semi gloss initially. Can I paint a coat of semi gloss over it … Do I need to sand the flat paint and there are so many shades of white colors … is there a specific shade for doors
You can give it a light scuff sand with 150 to knock down any texture issues. Then just go over it with a decent semi-gloss trim paint. Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel is my favorite, but you can use whatever you prefer. I’d recommend doing 2 coats. That’ll get you a good uniform finish
I'm assuming that the door has been previously painted. It would be similar process but he pattern of the door may be a bit different. Use a brush to get the areas that you can't roll and then use a roller for the rest. Most steel doors I've seen have a rolled finish.
@@SuperVassarBrothers It’s an older front door of my condo. It needs painting, I don’t really want to replace it nor remove it from its hinges for painting.
Hi, I just moved the door knob on a bifold closet door from the side to the center. I Patch the hole and now I need to paint that area on the door. Any tips?
If you have the same paint that was used before then you may be able to paint the strip of the door that the patch is on. If you’re using a new paint then I’d recommend painting the whole door (at least the side that faces out from the closet)
Depends on the door. The house we were in for the filming of this was exceptionally clean. You can sand if the door has an aggressive shine to it or if it has a rough finish that needs to be smoothed. The paints we use have excellent adhesion, so we don’t generally run into issues with it bonding to a surface that’s been previously painted with latex.
Another excellent video. I am going to be painting that exact door style except it's new pre-primed molded panel solid core. I am using BM Advance and plan to use your technique shown in this video but I noticed when I painted pre-primed mdf baseboards that the first coat of advance really soaks in fast and it gets tacky very quickly causing deep brush marks no matter how fast I try to get it on and leave a wet edge. Overlap areas are nearly impossible to avoid. The smooth finish is more important to me on the door than the baseboards so I was wondering if it would be better to re-prime the pre-primed door before painting with advance. Paint color is Simply White in Pearl finish if that make a difference. Thanks in advance for your advice.
I don't think priming the doors will make that much of a difference. I'd recommend doing 2 coats. You can sand between coats to keep things smooth, but the second coat will be the most important. You'll have to figure out a method that'll work for your application process and your speed. The paint will definitely flow more smoothly on coat #2.
You don’t need to prime if the door has previously been painted with a latex based paint. If the door was previously painted with an oil based product then you may need to prime with a bonding / adhesion primer.
You shouldn't need to prime unless the previous trim paint was oil and you're going over it with a latex. It's not a bad idea to sand it a bit so that the new paint sticks a bit easier, but if you're going over latex you should be good to go. You can check out this video I did on priming different surfaces: ua-cam.com/video/mEUZaXQpx2g/v-deo.html
Appreciate the video. Came trying to see if we could paint doors while hung. We painted one side of each door twice (after having someone hang them), and didn’t want to pull them again to do the other side. 1: plenty for a newbie 2: never thought the door behind was messed up 3: why paint the top? Seems like a waste of time (suggested by someone else). Hoping our SW emerald comes out as good. Appreciate you.
I’m glad it was helpful! Painting the top can be a good idea for an exterior door. It just helps the door stay sealed if it wasn’t done from the factory. I don’t know many folks that paint the top for interior doors.
For sure it would. I’ve got a series of videos coming out about how to brush doors. I brush doors that have a grain to them and we usually roll the doors that don’t.
@@SuperVassarBrothers have tought yo have done it. It would be maybe good next time to show in time laps for 5-10 seconds "the other side goes the same". Great video, it will help me in my next peoject😉
The texture we're going for on this door is a rolled finish. That is a common and preferred way to finish a flat panel door that doesn't have any grain to it. I've got a bunch of other videos where I demonstrate how to brush a door that has a grain pattern.
@ No problem, if that’s what you’re going for. Personally I prefer the brush out look on these panel doors with or without door imprint texture. I’m a bit old school and traditionally doors were brushed so the brush out look to me appears more “traditional”.
please u teach me how to say in english for buy the white liquid to paint the door? i am renting condo apt here door is too old want to paint make it look new. please help me out. thanks. just open and pain or have to mix with things else before can go paint on the door ? please help me.
I'd recommend going to a paint store and explaining what you're trying to paint. They should be able to assist you with finding a product that would work and will mix it for you. Good luck with your project!
I believe we were using Emerald Urethane Trim enamel which is a hybrid trim paint. It’s technically waterborne but has oil resins pumped into it to give it some of the desirable characteristics of an oil based paint.
Do you ever spray? Seems it's a big selling point for the speed, but the cleaning and the masking time. I can see it for industrial jobs or exterior fences or garage doors, but interior doesn't make much sense to me.
We are primarily a brush and roller crew. We use to do more spraying, but we got away from that type of work cause I don't like doing it 😬. We mostly paint in fully furnished homes, so spraying isn't practical on most of our jobs. There are a lot of crews that spray almost everything and they get super fast at prepping everything and spraying, but that's just not our jam.
I practiced rolling on one of my doors and it came out super textured. I didnt like it, so i sand it down completely flat with 180 grit and finished with 220. Re tried again and rolled it... once it again supet textured. I cant figure out how to get it smooth when rolling. 😢
You may be having an issue with the type of roller you’re using. I prefer 1/4 inch nap woven rollers for rolling doors. That’ll give you as smooth a finish as you can get from a roller and that’s what I was using in this video.
Tip it out after rolling is the only way to completely get rid of texture. However, you can minimize it with a microfiber nap. The texture will be less noticeable.
Part of it is experience / skill. That being said, you just want to pay attention as you’re laying down the product that you’re not leaving lap marks / streaks. Smooth them out as you see them with the roller.
Even easier is getting a tampon roller and rolling the whole door minus the edges and back brush. You can push it in them corners better than with a 4 in roller
You might find some things useful if you punch around a bit more in our content. A lot of folks have found our series on painting a bedroom helpful. Gotta start somewhere
I only use a microfiber mini roller and 2"" brush (soft bristle Wooster or purdy). We always tip out the texture since most builders and customers don't like them. Advance paint then cross hatch it. You won't see any brush marks. Remember advance is self leveling. If done right the brush mark will settle out.
That's a solid method. I like Advance. We use it for certain applications. Our typical go-to trim paint is Emerald Urethane which also levels out quite nicely. This is an older video. Recently I've been using different types of mini rollers and the microfiber is a great option.
Friendly tip! WOW! All this to paint a door? Why not work out of the paint tray? Correct, start with the heel. I would suggest you put more paint on your brush. All you need to paint a door is TSP, sanding sponge, a 6'' fabric whizz roller and a 2'' quality paint brush. That door would normally take 2 min to paint. The gooseneck guy! Cheers!
Rolling flat panel doors? That’s how most folks, including professionals, paint these types of doors. Some people prefer various different types of roller setups, but it’s pretty standard.
So that was a new door that still has the plastic film on it. You can get paint on the plastic film then just cut it out with a blade after you’re done.
I've inquired about this as well and was told some owners don't want doors removed. Weird ,I know as I would definitely request doors removed and especially all the hardware. There is nothing worse than overspray or painted over hardware! It just screams shoddy work in my opinion.
Hi Joe. Taking the door off and removing the hardware is a good option. For most our jobs it's more efficient to paint while the door is up. Also we are precise and don't get paint on the hardware. On the rare occasion we do, we would scrape it off.
Hi Robert. Sometimes we do remove the latch. In most cases we don't because but its easy to paint around and when we instal the door handle its always in the exact location it was before. We've had some bad latches break, or not go back in the same spot and we spent half an hour trying to get the door handle to work because the latch was crappy. More of a risk reward situation for us since time is money. Thanks for your feedback.
Those were new doors with plastic on the glass. You cut the plastic off after you paint them. That’s how you do it. But I appreciate the ignorant and insulting comment. 💩
Spraying is vastly superior if you know what you are doing. BTW only amateurs use tape rather than removing all of the hardware, which is faster, easier, and better AKA the Trifecta of the right way. Don't bother responding....
Thanks for your gracious observations. A lot of our audience are DIYers, so it’s unlikely they’ll be using an airless sprayer. A lot of the ways I demonstrate things on the channel are geared in that direction (like taping hinges). To your other points, even as professionals, there are many instances where removing all the hardware and spraying would be impractical (like if you were painting one door). And I’ll respond if I want to good sir. Enjoy your evening 😘
Your comment is arrogant and senseless. My proof is you feeling good about saying, "Don't respond". 🤡.. The replies to your comment have more appreciation (likes) than yours. Smh
Nope. We were painting over builder’s grade latex so there’s no need to prime. Scuff sand and you’re ready to rip. (I’m not sure if we showed the scuff sand in the video. This was from a while ago)
I could be wrong, but on job sites I've always heard of these non-grained patterned doors as flat panel doors. I suppose you could call them paneled doors, it's just how I've heard the term used in common usage.
I work in door and window sales. Flat, or more accurately, smooth panel is correct, as this is a paneled door without a fake woodgrain texture. A door without panels is also called a flat slab door and can be either smooth or textured. A bit confusing, but builders, carpenters and painters are familiar with interchanging terms. Hope this helps. Great painting tips, by the way.
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This was really good and I needed to know everything you suggested as mostly watching would be amateurs. Thank you, by the way I love your response to the negative post😊
I’m glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and for commenting! I wish you well in your door painting endeavors 🫡
THANK YOU! This video was helpful and inspired me to DIY my doors.
Good luck!
Very educational. Im going to be painting 90 doors tomorrow
Good luck. 90 seems like a lot 😬
@@SuperVassarBrothers lol I'm scared
Thank you for the video! We have solid wood doors that were a very dark stain. I painted them white, but did not prime first. What a huge mistake! So now I have to do it over. So I'm assuming I sand a bit, prime and paint again correct? I've heard to do a light sand in between coats to get a really smooth finish Is that necessary? Thank you!
If you continue to get bleed through on your doors then you’re probably going to need to prime with something like BIN shellac. That’s what we use when we convert stained trim and doors to painted.
You can sand between coats if the finish feels rough. Just don’t sand after the last coat (obviously). Here’s a video on BIN in case you end up heading in that direction: ua-cam.com/video/MXzq60W6Gts/v-deo.htmlsi=4s0NqobeA5FXtgNA
I love your back door I think it's awesome
Ha
This is exactly how it should be done. Anyone saying you should take off the door clearly doesn't get that as a professional painter, you pretty much won't get paint on the hardware. Plus its a lot easier and faster to paint while the doors hung, you get to do the whole thing without having any drips or finger marks afterwards.
The finger marks afterwards is a big consideration that most folks don’t think about. Also, if there’s a lot of doors, you often don’t have the space to stack them against the walls. Leave them hung and remove the door knobs if you feel like it. This is the way 🫡
Doesn’t the rolled surface leave a slight orange peel texture?
@@almccallie4314yes it does. Better to roll on and brush out. Even better to take off, lay flat, that way the paint will float out nicely, but it does mean a bit of extra time handling each door. Not always practical.
Perfect. Ty
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! Very informative. Can I use the same process to restain a door instead of painting it?
Staining is quite a different process than painting. I just filmed a video this week where I show how to stain a wood door. That will be out soon. Here’s a video on staining stairs. That’s way closer to the process you’re talking about. Stain Stairs like a Pro
ua-cam.com/video/wro_ABm9blg/v-deo.html
Please help! I have a cheap no panel hollow door that was originally painted with latex. Problem is my dog scratched the paint off in a 6"x 6" area at the bottom of the door showing the bare wood underneath. How do I prep the door to get rid of the edges where the paint flaked off? Will primer and two coats fix it?
I’d prime it with fresh start primer from Benjamin Moore. Then use wood filler or spackle to level out that area. Sand the repair, prime it again then go over it with you finish paint.
Many thanks! BTW Love your channel
Great video! Ugh. Trying to fix to slight marks on beautiful door similar to this one. Guy at Sherwin-Williams told me to use a foam roller and it turned out like crap. I’m moving and it’s my friends door so I’m going to sand down the one panel, maybe the whole thing and do your process. I’ve painted a ton but not these really smooth doors. Should I just use 150 grit or something else then 150?
Use 150 grit and I wouldn’t use a foam roller. Try a 1/4 inch white nap roller cover and I’d got with emerald urethane, regular emerald semi-gloss or duration semi-gloss. Good luck!
How about a velour roller…minimizes orange peel or fisheyes….plus spray a fine mist of water(if using Latex) and that helps keep the finish smooth
Excellent video, very helpful thank-you for sharing .
You are most welcome 🫡
I painted my door with a microfiber roller. The finish came out perfectly apart from the little fibers that stuck to the door. How do I prevent this when painting subsequent doors please? I used acrylic enamel paint,
You can use a piece of painters tape and use it to go over the surface area of a new roller cover. That will remove the majority of the loose fibers that usually get stuck in the paint.
I have this exact door, but the previous owner had stickers on the door and when the stickers were removed so was the paint. What would you do to fix that before repainting the door?
We use orange wood putty to fill in where the paint was ripped off. Then we sand it, and go over it with our trim paint.
Mine are just primed, how many coats should I put on?
You should be good with 2 depending on the color and paint you’re using. If it looks good to you after 2 coats then you’re good. If they don’t look great do a 3rd.
Will the brush show the brush streaks ? I want to paint back (interior side) of my front door and think removing to spray is too much work but worried about brush streaks
If you use a brush to apply the product then you will have a hand brushed finish. The quality of that hand brushed finish will be determined by your skill level, the product you choose to use, and the brush you use to apply it. Emerald Urethane or Advance applied with a corona cortez or corona Vegas are great combos.
The top trim paints at SW are self leveling. Also, I use flotrol additive from home depot and it makes your paint smooth when using a brush. It doesn’t change the color of your paint either. I would never paint trim without it.
I messed up and painted the door with interior flat paint and then realized it looked like coated with chalk and I can see the streaks . The door was semi gloss initially. Can I paint a coat of semi gloss over it … and there are so many shades of white colors … is there a specific shade for doors
Appreciate the video. Came trying to see if we could paint doors while hung. We painted one side of each door twice (after having someone hang them), and didn’t want to pull them again to do the other side.
1: plenty for a newbie
2: never thought the door behind was messed up
3: why paint the top? Seems like a waste of time (suggested by someone else).
Hoping our SW emerald comes out as good.
Appreciate you.
Oh and F the douches that just have to complain about something.
Haha, folks always something to complain about. Just part of the deal of posting videos.
I’m doing all the doors and a fistful of drywall patches. 👊 Doors are cheaper than psychologists! 🤛 I got a Corona Cortez, Floetrol, and a big bag of hot mud! Thx for all you help, Sir. 😺
Hahaha, excellent!! Good luck with your project! If you get jammed up or need additional support you may want to check out our online community. You get direct access to having any questions answered by me and also our interior painting fundamentals course. No worries either way! www.skool.com/paint-your-home-now-7523/about
I live in a tiny condo and bought a new sliding door for my kitchen. It will save a lot of space taken up by the current door's swing. This is a one-time job for me so I'm hoping to hand sand and just use a paintbrush. It seems a waste to buy rollers I'll never use again.
That’s a good call. I brush a lot of doors and it works well. You may find this video useful: The Easy Paint Pattern to make Your Doors Look Amazing
ua-cam.com/video/GAElZ7zTOpA/v-deo.html
Don't forget to dust the top of the door and around the door knob, the roller will grab loose particles and deposit them in your paint job.
Spot on Mr. Hackett
You should paint the top of the door.
I messed up and painted the door with Ultra Hide **interior flat paint and then realized it looked like coated with chalk and I can see the streaks . The door was semi gloss initially. Can I paint a coat of semi gloss over it … Do I need to sand the flat paint and there are so many shades of white colors … is there a specific shade for doors
You can give it a light scuff sand with 150 to knock down any texture issues. Then just go over it with a decent semi-gloss trim paint. Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel is my favorite, but you can use whatever you prefer. I’d recommend doing 2 coats. That’ll get you a good uniform finish
Thank you for the quick response . Loved your video and I wish I had seen this before starting my project
How do I paint a Stanley steel door? Would it be the same way? Thanks
I'm assuming that the door has been previously painted. It would be similar process but he pattern of the door may be a bit different. Use a brush to get the areas that you can't roll and then use a roller for the rest. Most steel doors I've seen have a rolled finish.
@@SuperVassarBrothers It’s an older front door of my condo. It needs painting, I don’t really want to replace it nor remove it from its hinges for painting.
Hi, I just moved the door knob on a bifold closet door from the side to the center. I Patch the hole and now I need to paint that area on the door. Any tips?
If you have the same paint that was used before then you may be able to paint the strip of the door that the patch is on. If you’re using a new paint then I’d recommend painting the whole door (at least the side that faces out from the closet)
@@SuperVassarBrothers it's factory white so I have no clue what " color" to use
Wouldn't you advise cleaning the door first? and does not the whole thing need to be sanded a little to take off the shine? Thanks!
Depends on the door. The house we were in for the filming of this was exceptionally clean. You can sand if the door has an aggressive shine to it or if it has a rough finish that needs to be smoothed. The paints we use have excellent adhesion, so we don’t generally run into issues with it bonding to a surface that’s been previously painted with latex.
Awesome thanks bro. You mostly using Duration nowadays? @@SuperVassarBrothers
Another excellent video. I am going to be painting that exact door style except it's new pre-primed molded panel solid core. I am using BM Advance and plan to use your technique shown in this video but I noticed when I painted pre-primed mdf baseboards that the first coat of advance really soaks in fast and it gets tacky very quickly causing deep brush marks no matter how fast I try to get it on and leave a wet edge. Overlap areas are nearly impossible to avoid. The smooth finish is more important to me on the door than the baseboards so I was wondering if it would be better to re-prime the pre-primed door before painting with advance. Paint color is Simply White in Pearl finish if that make a difference. Thanks in advance for your advice.
I don't think priming the doors will make that much of a difference. I'd recommend doing 2 coats. You can sand between coats to keep things smooth, but the second coat will be the most important. You'll have to figure out a method that'll work for your application process and your speed. The paint will definitely flow more smoothly on coat #2.
I have the same color for the doors. Do you know which Sherwin color it matches to?
We used Sherwin Williams Extra White 7006
Hi, Did you think the paint at all or just straight out of the can?, same approach for trim as well?
I don’t think we strained it. It was a new can and wasn’t chunky. Trim is a little different cause we don’t typically use a roller for any trim work
did you apply primer to the door before painting? thanks.
Nope. These doors were previously painted with a latex based paint so there’s no need to prime.
Do i need to apply any undercoating product before paint?
You don’t need to prime if the door has previously been painted with a latex based paint. If the door was previously painted with an oil based product then you may need to prime with a bonding / adhesion primer.
Is a new build house ..was 3 years ago😅..but no idea what sort of paint they used
If the door, trim and cabinets were previously painted with semi-gloss would it need to be sanded and primed before the new color goes on? Thank you.
You shouldn't need to prime unless the previous trim paint was oil and you're going over it with a latex. It's not a bad idea to sand it a bit so that the new paint sticks a bit easier, but if you're going over latex you should be good to go. You can check out this video I did on priming different surfaces:
ua-cam.com/video/mEUZaXQpx2g/v-deo.html
Appreciate the video. Came trying to see if we could paint doors while hung. We painted one side of each door twice (after having someone hang them), and didn’t want to pull them again to do the other side.
1: plenty for a newbie
2: never thought the door behind was messed up
3: why paint the top? Seems like a waste of time (suggested by someone else).
Hoping our SW emerald comes out as good.
Appreciate you.
I’m glad it was helpful!
Painting the top can be a good idea for an exterior door. It just helps the door stay sealed if it wasn’t done from the factory. I don’t know many folks that paint the top for interior doors.
Just make sure to do a light brushing across the top with an unloaded brush to avoid any ridges that affect closure.
what roller are you using can you post a link to the product or a description Thanks
We use 1/4 or 3/8 inch pro-doo-z ftps from Wooster. The white doves from purdy would also work in the same nap length.
If you painted the whole door with just a brush (no rollers) would it leave brush marks?
For sure it would. I’ve got a series of videos coming out about how to brush doors. I brush doors that have a grain to them and we usually roll the doors that don’t.
Curious. Why not just use the 4 inch roller on the toe and heal? Good video 👍
You can if you've removed the hardware. I find it easier to use a brush to get around the hinges and so forth.
When do you make the other side?
Hi Iv. We painted it soon after we painted the first side. Its the same process and thought it would be repetitive if we showed it again.
@@SuperVassarBrothers have tought yo have done it. It would be maybe good next time to show in time laps for 5-10 seconds "the other side goes the same".
Great video, it will help me in my next peoject😉
Why not roll on and brush out to get rid of roller texture.
The texture we're going for on this door is a rolled finish. That is a common and preferred way to finish a flat panel door that doesn't have any grain to it. I've got a bunch of other videos where I demonstrate how to brush a door that has a grain pattern.
@ No problem, if that’s what you’re going for. Personally I prefer the brush out look on these panel doors with or without door imprint texture. I’m a bit old school and traditionally doors were brushed so the brush out look to me appears more “traditional”.
I used roller with semigloss paint and it left roller marks. Semigloss drove me crazy!
It can be a bit tricky avoiding lap marks but you can get better at it the more you do it.
Is trim paint same color as the door sir
Most of the time it is. Sometimes people paint the doors an accent color like black and the rest of the trim is white.
What grit sandpaper?
150 or 220
please u teach me how to say in english for buy the white liquid to paint the door? i am renting condo apt here door is too old want to paint make it look new. please help me out. thanks. just open and pain or have to mix with things else before can go paint on the door ? please help me.
I'd recommend going to a paint store and explaining what you're trying to paint. They should be able to assist you with finding a product that would work and will mix it for you. Good luck with your project!
Did you use water based paint.?
I believe we were using Emerald Urethane Trim enamel which is a hybrid trim paint. It’s technically waterborne but has oil resins pumped into it to give it some of the desirable characteristics of an oil based paint.
@@SuperVassarBrothers reason I asked is that it looked like it went very easily, unlike oil based... Thank you..
No sanding of the whole door to ensure a good key for the new paint? 🤔
Pretty sure we scuff sanded the door prior to painting. We’ll sand in between coats if needed. Sometimes we don’t show everything in the videos
Do you ever spray? Seems it's a big selling point for the speed, but the cleaning and the masking time. I can see it for industrial jobs or exterior fences or garage doors, but interior doesn't make much sense to me.
We are primarily a brush and roller crew. We use to do more spraying, but we got away from that type of work cause I don't like doing it 😬. We mostly paint in fully furnished homes, so spraying isn't practical on most of our jobs. There are a lot of crews that spray almost everything and they get super fast at prepping everything and spraying, but that's just not our jam.
Door looks beautiful what paint is this? Do you recommend Emerald urethane for doors? ProClassic?
Thanks Pearl. Its Duration semi gloss from Sherwin Williams. We like Emerald urethane as well. ProClassic not so much. :)
Pro classic, hybrid is great paint. Duration sucks on trim
I practiced rolling on one of my doors and it came out super textured. I didnt like it, so i sand it down completely flat with 180 grit and finished with 220.
Re tried again and rolled it... once it again supet textured. I cant figure out how to get it smooth when rolling. 😢
You may be having an issue with the type of roller you’re using. I prefer 1/4 inch nap woven rollers for rolling doors. That’ll give you as smooth a finish as you can get from a roller and that’s what I was using in this video.
@@SuperVassarBrothers I have the texture problem as well. Also, I used 1/4 inch nap woven roller. So its got to be something else like paint quality.
Tip it out after rolling is the only way to completely get rid of texture. However, you can minimize it with a microfiber nap. The texture will be less noticeable.
how do you avoid streaks?
Part of it is experience / skill. That being said, you just want to pay attention as you’re laying down the product that you’re not leaving lap marks / streaks. Smooth them out as you see them with the roller.
Make video how you wash your paint brush after using semi gloss paint
How To Properly Clean a Paint Brush
ua-cam.com/video/h2TisFHFe-4/v-deo.html
No primer necessary??
The door was previously painted so there’s no need to prime it 👍
No primer is needed?
Nope. The door was previously painted with a latex based paint so we can go straight over it.
im. not taking door knobs off
Not a problem at all. You can cut around them. You can also tape them if you need to.
Naps what material?
Pretty sure those Sherwin Williams rollers are 1/4 inch woven nylon
Even easier is getting a tampon roller and rolling the whole door minus the edges and back brush. You can push it in them corners better than with a 4 in roller
We’ve been using those a lot recently too. I am a fan, and you’re right, you can get them in the corners better than the 4 inch variety 🫡
Great channel for professionals. Nothing here for a beginner. Moving on ....
You might find some things useful if you punch around a bit more in our content. A lot of folks have found our series on painting a bedroom helpful. Gotta start somewhere
I only use a microfiber mini roller and 2"" brush (soft bristle Wooster or purdy). We always tip out the texture since most builders and customers don't like them. Advance paint then cross hatch it. You won't see any brush marks. Remember advance is self leveling. If done right the brush mark will settle out.
That's a solid method. I like Advance. We use it for certain applications. Our typical go-to trim paint is Emerald Urethane which also levels out quite nicely. This is an older video. Recently I've been using different types of mini rollers and the microfiber is a great option.
Would you recommend priming first if the door was shoddily painted a green color by an instagram wanna be previous owner? 🙃
Yes, priming would be great especially if they were an instagram wanna be. :)
😂😂😂
🙏 ❤❤❤
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Is this water base or oil base ?
We were using a latex (water) base paint in this video. There are very few oil trim paints still in use
Friendly tip! WOW! All this to paint a door? Why not work out of the paint tray? Correct, start with the heel. I would suggest you put more paint on your brush. All you need to paint a door is TSP, sanding sponge, a 6'' fabric whizz roller and a 2'' quality paint brush. That door would normally take 2 min to paint. The gooseneck guy! Cheers!
Sounds like you got it nailed.
take a look at the glass door in the background . lol😁
Those glass doors are new and have plastic covering the glass. After you finish painting them you cut the plastic out with a razor blade. lol 😉
@@SuperVassarBrothers I feel reassured and can now take you serious.
lol
This is the landlord special
Rolling flat panel doors? That’s how most folks, including professionals, paint these types of doors. Some people prefer various different types of roller setups, but it’s pretty standard.
👍👌
Thanks for watching!
LEFTIES UNITE👊
I’ll pass this along to my brother 😄
Wasted a lot of time by not removing the latch or taping over all the hinges. It only takes seconds to tape a hinge
Sweet deal. We do both depending on the job
Dude, who painted that glass window door? Maybe that person needs to watch this video and learn how to paint professionally.
So that was a new door that still has the plastic film on it. You can get paint on the plastic film then just cut it out with a blade after you’re done.
i usually just buy another house.
That’s a solid strategy
Take the door off and remove all hardware.
I've done the paint it hung and cover the hinges before but totally confused why the latch wasn't removed as it's two screws.
Joe Nobody Does that bro it's too much
I've inquired about this as well and was told some owners don't want doors removed. Weird ,I know as I would definitely request doors removed and especially all the hardware. There is nothing worse than overspray or painted over hardware! It just screams shoddy work in my opinion.
Hi Joe. Taking the door off and removing the hardware is a good option. For most our jobs it's more efficient to paint while the door is up. Also we are precise and don't get paint on the hardware. On the rare occasion we do, we would scrape it off.
Hi Robert. Sometimes we do remove the latch. In most cases we don't because but its easy to paint around and when we instal the door handle its always in the exact location it was before. We've had some bad latches break, or not go back in the same spot and we spent half an hour trying to get the door handle to work because the latch was crappy. More of a risk reward situation for us since time is money. Thanks for your feedback.
Amateur brushing the brush down over edges will sure create a lip of paint. You should brush up over the upper edges and down over the lower edges 🙈🙈
Mmmkay, but I rolled into the wet cuts which created a uniform finish. There were no lips of paint on this door when it was finished
Love the shit paint job on the glass behind him, paint everywhere 😂😂😂😂😂
Those were new doors with plastic on the glass. You cut the plastic off after you paint them. That’s how you do it. But I appreciate the ignorant and insulting comment. 💩
@@SuperVassarBrothers 😂😂😂😂😂 triggered dude 👍👍
@@stevecam724 You are an absolute dik, Steve. Namaste 🙏
@@stevecam724 Stop being a child and pay attention, maybe you will learn something...
Spraying is vastly superior if you know what you are doing. BTW only amateurs use tape rather than removing all of the hardware, which is faster, easier, and better AKA the Trifecta of the right way. Don't bother responding....
Thanks for your gracious observations. A lot of our audience are DIYers, so it’s unlikely they’ll be using an airless sprayer. A lot of the ways I demonstrate things on the channel are geared in that direction (like taping hinges). To your other points, even as professionals, there are many instances where removing all the hardware and spraying would be impractical (like if you were painting one door). And I’ll respond if I want to good sir. Enjoy your evening 😘
Lp
L
Your comment is arrogant and senseless. My proof is you feeling good about saying, "Don't respond". 🤡.. The replies to your comment have more appreciation (likes) than yours. Smh
This is easier if you just have a few doors to do rather than breaking out the sprayer
No prime?
Nope. We were painting over builder’s grade latex so there’s no need to prime. Scuff sand and you’re ready to rip. (I’m not sure if we showed the scuff sand in the video. This was from a while ago)
How is the door a flat panel ? It has a recessed design.
I could be wrong, but on job sites I've always heard of these non-grained patterned doors as flat panel doors. I suppose you could call them paneled doors, it's just how I've heard the term used in common usage.
I work in door and window sales. Flat, or more accurately, smooth panel is correct, as this is a paneled door without a fake woodgrain texture. A door without panels is also called a flat slab door and can be either smooth or textured. A bit confusing, but builders, carpenters and painters are familiar with interchanging terms. Hope this helps. Great painting tips, by the way.