This was a very informative interview. Modern velomobiles look so very well made! I think that every velomobile brand should consider offering the same kind of sunroof that Intercitybike makes for DF. It is very airy and practical in summer, but still more aero dynamic than being just bare headed. No fogging problems either
@@seppoinnanen5577 I really only see a noticeable difference at higher speeds. From what I have heard, the DF sunroof actually doesn’t provide much of any aerodynamic improvement.
Great review. Just for an idea, I integrated the extra side indicators into the mirrors and used schrinktube to hide the cables going down the stem into the interior. As an extra perk you have a visual indicator in your field of vision so the need for an audio blinker on signal is eradicated. (SHIN YO LED blinker module 1)
@@mnveloguy that is not even necessary, have you got an email address? Via the ambassador page? I’ll send you a picture how it is at mine and you can decide if it’s worth the work.
I would love to have one. I turned 70 and I wished that I would of had an interest earlier in life but being said that it is never to late. Doing some research and I was interested in the Velotek VT1. Price was good for me. Thank you for sharing. Live on Long Island NY. Hope to go to Canada and test drive this VT1 velomobile one day. Hope to hear from you. I need some feedback. Thanks again.
The VT1 is more of a light electric vehicle than a true velomobile. The VT1 is intended as a commuting vehicle and really needs e-assist to be Driveable Due to its weight. It also lacks a fully enclosed drivetrain so the chain and other parts will get dirty faster and wear out. I know the price is appealing to people, but I’m not a fan of the VT1. I prefer models that can be easily ridden without assist like the Bülk. The designer of the Bülk has been thinking about designing a budget model. If you are looking for something in a lower price range, I would wait for that model or look at the used market. I have a freiend right now that has an older WAW available for a much lower price than the VT1 and a client with a DF in exceptional condition for $5750. Both would be better options than the VT1 and both are made by companies that have been around for a very long time and will continue to be around for years to come meaning you will always be able to get replacement parts.
@@mnveloguy okay and thanks. I like new so I will take your advice and see about the Bülk. I like them but they are above what I want to spend. The import is easy to get delivered? Thank you for your feedback.
@@thomasrigattieri5969 air freight to east coast usually runs $1200-1500 and can be picked up from someplace like JFK airport. Import fees are typically $500-600 when handled by a import broker (I have an excellent one I work with.) Usually a dealer such as myself sets up the shipping and helps arrange the import and you need only to make the payment. The purchase process through a dealer is very easy and seamless. Perhaps a use velomobile would be the best solution for you though? I often have clients selling their velomobile. I usually know which ones are good about taking care of their bikes. Right now I have clients selling everything from a Quatrevelo to a WAW, DF, Mango, and an older Quest. I also just helped a client sell a Milan GT MK7. Lots of used options. If the budget version of the Bülk that I mentioned happens, that might be a great option for you too. I’m not sure of the status of that idea, but it sounds like you are thinking more towards the future right now.
You mention mid cleat position and tip of shoe touching the inside of the fairing. Is there a positive side to using midcleat compared to normal cleat position. What size crank arms do you have as Ive always understood more torque with longer cranks. Very informative and I thank you very much
I have my cleats as far back as they go on the stock position of the shoe. Technically that's not really mid-cleat position. It can help reduce pressure on your foot that can lead to hot foot. I have 155 cranks in my Buelk. Shorter cranks help with riding at higher cadence which can be more efficient, especially when accelerating. Recumbent position is also quite different from the position of an upright bicycle. For recumbents shorter cranks can lead to better ergonomics and less strain on the knees and hips from what I've been told. I know I feel much more comfortable riding a recumbent with 155 cranks. I have also ridden with 140 cranks and did not have any loss in power output.
To me it is a hill. The hills here are quite short. Maybe .5 km. If it was long like some of the 1.5 km or more hills I rode on my tour in Bavaria, then I might call them mountains 🙂
I'm only joking, but where I live there are a lot of 16-25% gradients. They tend not be very long, but they slow me down to walking speed (or less) and have a big impact on my average speed.
A small rear camera might be nice. Reuben had one for his 24 h record. A english documentory on Eggert Bülk might also be interesting for the non german audience.
I have since switched to a motorcycle camera system. I’m not entirely happy with the resolution though and I don’t use it as a review camera system. I’m happy with my mirrors for that. Documentary idea is an interesting one.
Thanks Ben, what's the seat angle at and is it adjustable? My mirrors are further back towards my face and I think I have the same ones and haven't had any problems with rearward visibility.
I'm sitting quite upright and far forward. My field of vision is limited to some extent by the race hood A pillars. I can see behind, but because the mirrors are further forward than they were in the Quest, the view is a bit smaller.
@@mnveloguy Yup! An early one, >6000 km on the clock already :) I have a lot of torque, had some issues with the rear suspension. On acceleration, the tire would touch the wheel well, and that was a 28mm. ICB reinforced it and made some other small mods, now the 32mm works well.
@@mnveloguy Could very well be. I also have a DF XL, so I simply chose to be a "guinea pig" and help to debug the new beauty :) Got #14, it replaces a Milan. Must say that apart from some minor discomfort I didn't have any real reliability issues, so they did deliver a good product. The chain does want to fly off every now and then, that's the only issue left. But even with the reinforcement, 32mm is tight; if I give it full beans from a full stop it still rubs the tire. So unless they made a change to the shape of the wheel well I think 40mm will be difficult (but please try so we all know!)
@mydaddycat you can now order direct from Velomobile World. After issues with the previous ordering system that I believe you have some personal experience with, they instituted a direct to customer ordering system. Intercity Bike and Velomobiel.NL have down the same. You can now either work through one of the velomobile ambassadors such as myself at www.velomobileworld.com/ambassadors/ or email velomobile world directly through their website.
Feel free to contact me for more comprehensive info about the order process and experience. A lot of positive changes have been made from the abysmal former system. Under the prior setup I would never have ordered a new velomobile. This process worked very smoothly and the customer service has been outstanding. There is also the possibility to order through one of the European dealers like Sven at Velomobil Nord if you prefer to have an intermediary.
These vehicles, while interesting, are just too expensive. For $10,000 there 10,000 better alternatives. Get them to about $3,000 and I’ll consider one.
These vehicles are hand built. The materials alone are over $3000. It takes several weeks for the factory to assemble one. I tried to build one to save money. It cost me more than $3000 and took me 6 months. These vehicles can easily replace a car. Consider the savings each year in gasoline and insurance. I put gas in my car maybe a couple times a year because I use my velomobile instead. Over time that alone pays for the velomobile. It is possible to find used Velomobiles for $4-5000. That is the most cost-effective way to enter the world of Velomobiles.
@@mnveloguy For $3999 U.S. you can buy a new 300cc motorcycle (honda). The parts in a fully-assembled motorcycle cost about the same as parts for a velomobile (?). If the velomobile is to become a game changer for transportation, the price must come down about 80%. Perhaps convince the Honda corporation to build one?
@@AddyAdderson A carbon road racing bicycle will run you $6,000, for only $4,000 more you get a full enclosure, for only $10,000 you get a heck of lot of vehicle. If you want something cheaper and more practical just buy a used car, but if you want velomobile $10,000 is a very good price.
@@bonerici Good price? No, it's a hobby for which you need a commercial UA-cam channel to pay for. I realize you guys are doing R&D essentially, and that all the cost is at the front end of development, but for an actual consumer, $10k can't be characterized as a "good price."
@@AddyAdderson you dont have any expensive hobbies? craft beer? golf? sky diving? Motor boats? helicopter skiing? Are all your hobbies cheap like fishing and I guess riding the skateboard? I like how like cheap fishing and the skateboard are but I'll never talk shit about someone for an expensvie hobby.
This was a very informative interview. Modern velomobiles look so very well made!
I think that every velomobile brand should consider offering the same kind of sunroof that Intercitybike makes for DF. It is very airy and practical in summer, but still more aero dynamic than being just bare headed. No fogging problems either
Interesting idea with the sunroof. I don’t find much speed difference between riding with and without my racehood
@@mnveloguy Ok, that was surprising news to me 👍
@@seppoinnanen5577 I really only see a noticeable difference at higher speeds. From what I have heard, the DF sunroof actually doesn’t provide much of any aerodynamic improvement.
Ben thanks for this great video. There is alot of good information here.
Great review. Just for an idea, I integrated the extra side indicators into the mirrors and used schrinktube to hide the cables going down the stem into the interior. As an extra perk you have a visual indicator in your field of vision so the need for an audio blinker on signal is eradicated. (SHIN YO LED blinker module 1)
That is an idea. I’m not sure I want to mess with removing the mirror cones.
@@mnveloguy that is not even necessary, have you got an email address? Via the ambassador page? I’ll send you a picture how it is at mine and you can decide if it’s worth the work.
@@caspervanosch8654 this is my ambassador page www.velomobileworld.com/ambassadors/ben-parke/
I would love to have one. I turned 70 and I wished that I would of had an interest earlier in life but being said that it is never to late. Doing some research and I was interested in the Velotek VT1. Price was good for me. Thank you for sharing. Live on Long Island NY. Hope to go to Canada and test drive this VT1 velomobile one day. Hope to hear from you. I need some feedback. Thanks again.
The VT1 is more of a light electric vehicle than a true velomobile. The VT1 is intended as a commuting vehicle and really needs e-assist to be Driveable Due to its weight. It also lacks a fully enclosed drivetrain so the chain and other parts will get dirty faster and wear out. I know the price is appealing to people, but I’m not a fan of the VT1. I prefer models that can be easily ridden without assist like the Bülk. The designer of the Bülk has been thinking about designing a budget model. If you are looking for something in a lower price range, I would wait for that model or look at the used market. I have a freiend right now that has an older WAW available for a much lower price than the VT1 and a client with a DF in exceptional condition for $5750. Both would be better options than the VT1 and both are made by companies that have been around for a very long time and will continue to be around for years to come meaning you will always be able to get replacement parts.
@@mnveloguy okay and thanks. I like new so I will take your advice and see about the Bülk. I like them but they are above what I want to spend. The import is easy to get delivered? Thank you for your feedback.
@@thomasrigattieri5969 air freight to east coast usually runs $1200-1500 and can be picked up from someplace like JFK airport. Import fees are typically $500-600 when handled by a import broker (I have an excellent one I work with.) Usually a dealer such as myself sets up the shipping and helps arrange the import and you need only to make the payment. The purchase process through a dealer is very easy and seamless.
Perhaps a use velomobile would be the best solution for you though? I often have clients selling their velomobile. I usually know which ones are good about taking care of their bikes. Right now I have clients selling everything from a Quatrevelo to a WAW, DF, Mango, and an older Quest. I also just helped a client sell a Milan GT MK7. Lots of used options. If the budget version of the Bülk that I mentioned happens, that might be a great option for you too. I’m not sure of the status of that idea, but it sounds like you are thinking more towards the future right now.
You mention mid cleat position and tip of shoe touching the inside of the fairing.
Is there a positive side to using midcleat compared to normal cleat position.
What size crank arms do you have as Ive always understood more torque with longer cranks.
Very informative and I thank you very much
I have my cleats as far back as they go on the stock position of the shoe. Technically that's not really mid-cleat position. It can help reduce pressure on your foot that can lead to hot foot. I have 155 cranks in my Buelk. Shorter cranks help with riding at higher cadence which can be more efficient, especially when accelerating. Recumbent position is also quite different from the position of an upright bicycle. For recumbents shorter cranks can lead to better ergonomics and less strain on the knees and hips from what I've been told. I know I feel much more comfortable riding a recumbent with 155 cranks. I have also ridden with 140 cranks and did not have any loss in power output.
You call 8% a hill? Nice and very detailed review. Thanks.
To me it is a hill. The hills here are quite short. Maybe .5 km. If it was long like some of the 1.5 km or more hills I rode on my tour in Bavaria, then I might call them mountains 🙂
I'm only joking, but where I live there are a lot of 16-25% gradients. They tend not be very long, but they slow me down to walking speed (or less) and have a big impact on my average speed.
@@kitwolf2857 yes. Hills kill average speed. My Bavarian velomobile tour speeds were terrible because of the many hills.
A small rear camera might be nice. Reuben had one for his 24 h record. A english documentory on Eggert Bülk might also be interesting for the non german audience.
I have since switched to a motorcycle camera system. I’m not entirely happy with the resolution though and I don’t use it as a review camera system. I’m happy with my mirrors for that.
Documentary idea is an interesting one.
Thanks Ben, what's the seat angle at and is it adjustable? My mirrors are further back towards my face and I think I have the same ones and haven't had any problems with rearward visibility.
I'm sitting quite upright and far forward. My field of vision is limited to some extent by the race hood A pillars. I can see behind, but because the mirrors are further forward than they were in the Quest, the view is a bit smaller.
Does a wide rear tire fit on yours? I ride a GP5000 32-622 (700C), but that's really the limit. Fronts, 32-406 is tight but rides well.
I’m told 40 is the limit front and rear. I have a 28 rear and 32 front right now. I have a 32 contact urban for the rear but have not mounted it yet.
Did you also get a Bülk?
@@mnveloguy Yup! An early one, >6000 km on the clock already :) I have a lot of torque, had some issues with the rear suspension. On acceleration, the tire would touch the wheel well, and that was a 28mm. ICB reinforced it and made some other small mods, now the 32mm works well.
@@4nz-nl I did hear that the early ones ended up needing more reinforcement at the rear. I believe that is now fixed. Which build number is yours?
@@mnveloguy Could very well be. I also have a DF XL, so I simply chose to be a "guinea pig" and help to debug the new beauty :) Got #14, it replaces a Milan. Must say that apart from some minor discomfort I didn't have any real reliability issues, so they did deliver a good product. The chain does want to fly off every now and then, that's the only issue left.
But even with the reinforcement, 32mm is tight; if I give it full beans from a full stop it still rubs the tire. So unless they made a change to the shape of the wheel well I think 40mm will be difficult (but please try so we all know!)
How did you buy this? Who do you talk to to?
@mydaddycat you can now order direct from Velomobile World. After issues with the previous ordering system that I believe you have some personal experience with, they instituted a direct to customer ordering system. Intercity Bike and Velomobiel.NL have down the same. You can now either work through one of the velomobile ambassadors such as myself at www.velomobileworld.com/ambassadors/ or email velomobile world directly through their website.
Feel free to contact me for more comprehensive info about the order process and experience. A lot of positive changes have been made from the abysmal former system. Under the prior setup I would never have ordered a new velomobile. This process worked very smoothly and the customer service has been outstanding. There is also the possibility to order through one of the European dealers like Sven at Velomobil Nord if you prefer to have an intermediary.
🔥👍🔥👍🔥👍🔥👍🔥🇷🇺🇷🇺🇺🇸🇺🇸
These vehicles, while interesting, are just too expensive. For $10,000 there 10,000 better alternatives. Get them to about $3,000 and I’ll consider one.
These vehicles are hand built. The materials alone are over $3000. It takes several weeks for the factory to assemble one. I tried to build one to save money. It cost me more than $3000 and took me 6 months. These vehicles can easily replace a car. Consider the savings each year in gasoline and insurance. I put gas in my car maybe a couple times a year because I use my velomobile instead. Over time that alone pays for the velomobile. It is possible to find used Velomobiles for $4-5000. That is the most cost-effective way to enter the world of Velomobiles.
@@mnveloguy For $3999 U.S. you can buy a new 300cc motorcycle (honda). The parts in a fully-assembled motorcycle cost about the same as parts for a velomobile (?). If the velomobile is to become a game changer for transportation, the price must come down about 80%. Perhaps convince the Honda corporation to build one?
@@AddyAdderson A carbon road racing bicycle will run you $6,000, for only $4,000 more you get a full enclosure, for only $10,000 you get a heck of lot of vehicle. If you want something cheaper and more practical just buy a used car, but if you want velomobile $10,000 is a very good price.
@@bonerici Good price? No, it's a hobby for which you need a commercial UA-cam channel to pay for. I realize you guys are doing R&D essentially, and that all the cost is at the front end of development, but for an actual consumer, $10k can't be characterized as a "good price."
@@AddyAdderson you dont have any expensive hobbies? craft beer? golf? sky diving? Motor boats? helicopter skiing? Are all your hobbies cheap like fishing and I guess riding the skateboard? I like how like cheap fishing and the skateboard are but I'll never talk shit about someone for an expensvie hobby.