I do love that mold, & will probably eventually buy one or more, but just to be clear -- the panels coming out of your sturdy plastic molds can't be stacked as seen early in this video, can they? My brother, an engineer, was speculating about this with me.
1°) You solved my problem. 2°) Your video is clear, well structured. Animated 3D make things even clearer and pleasant to watch. The way you provide alternatives and options for tools and processes is really useful. 3°) The video is not only efficient and clear. It's friendly. It put a smile on my face. No bragging. And a nice house cat. Do you realize how many people you're going to help with this ? Thank you so much ... from France. Have a nice day !
These are great , I've been wanting raised garden beds and this popped up . I'll add one thing , if you want maximum strength , keep the concrete modules submerged in water for 2 weeks after they come out of the molds . I used to test concrete cylinders to destruction in a laboratory many years ago , 2 weeks underwater gives max. strength .
@@Narel666 The idea is to stop the concrete from drying quickly , when concrete is cast or poured it has an extremely high moisture content , once it has set , keeping it wet allows it to cure fully and develop maximum compression strength . When I poured my workshop slab and after it could be walked on , I covered it with builders plastic and wet it under the plastic 3 times a day for 10 days or so before building on it , 18 years later there are no cracks , no powdering , it's still perfect . Basically if concrete dries too quickly it is detrimental to the curing process.
Any thoughts on the diy aircrete applications? The properties are remarkable imo especially the Rfactor and wall casting options (thinking tiny cabin). I’m wondering if these molds would work well with aircrete? Lastly air Crete is very buoyant, I’m curious if density would still benefit from water set up?
If you leave the rebar longer, you can do hoops for a plastic cover. Or just build a frame, and BAM, an instant cold frame, or hot house, or whatever. I can also see this being a compost bin...easy to disassemble when you want to "harvest" the black gold...
Compost bins would work better with small gaps between layers for air to get in. I suppose you could easily make some corner pieces to separate the layers.
I was thinking you could put a bend at the end of the rebar to act as a handle to remove the rebar pins. Just a thought since I don't have a welder to add the washers he suggested.
Despite my first time working with concrete, despite my terrible carpentry skills, and despite this is my first time trying a plan I purchased via UA-cam, my first panels came out GREAT!!!! Excellent plans that even a moron like me can follow! Can't wait to install!! Thanks!
I am fortunate to have a table saw and miter saw, but I think it is really nice of you to discuss other ways to make the cuts for folks who don’t have those tools. After watching the entire video, I want to add that your presentation and discussion of the steps and why you are taking them is superb.
I love these. Replacing rotted timber boxes around the house. Made mine 16 inches tall with plywood because that is the hieght of the existing timbers. Just upsized everything. Kind of gives a mid century modern sort of look. Thanks for the great idea!
I’m a mold builder. We use Plastilina Modeling Clay rather than caulking for the corners. You don’t have to wait for it to dry and you can build your chamfered edge as big as you want. We use Vaseline to smooth it out. If you use fiber reinforced cement you can do away with the steel reinforcement.
Extrapolate these garden box forms into an interior bed room wall, an exterior living room wall...a courtyard wall...these concrete box forms supply an endless source of building ideas...very cool stuff.
As built and designed making something out of these that is that tall could be dangerous. Why not simply use the same design idea but make the panels taller. For commercial buildings this is exactly how they do it. The commercial design is called tilt-up construction. Once all these panels are tilted up and fastened together it is a safe and strong design.
Watched Part 1 and thought this was great. Now seeing the use of the dimensionaly lumber, even better. Great design and great video. Thanks for sharing.
This series of videos are done very well! Thanks for doing them! They are informative and clear. I also appreciate the plans being made available. You put a lot of effort into this and it shows. I also appreciate the positive/constructive comments from the viewers. It's a joy not having to sift through negative and sometimes ugly comments. Thank you!
This is a wonderful system that any DIYr should be able to handle. For a little more money MDO plywood makes excellent forms. These are something that can be shared with friends and family and would be super gifts.
Thank you SO MUCH. This is perfect for what I'm planning on building (25' x 3' bed, stacked 3' high) I'll be making them taller to the 1' hight instead of 8". I was at first a little daunted about the construction of the plans when I bought the old plans, but I was willing to tackle it. These plans are way easier! I'm more than happy to support the page and buy both sets even though I don't believe I'll be going the plywood route. Again, I cannot thank you enough for making this public information, and the videos are wonderful.
Your first video about these forms for raised beds motivated me so much, I built a 24x24 workshop so I'd have a place to build and store the forms. Thanks for the motivation. I've been sitting around twiddling my thumbs for far too long. :)
Very good idea, and very informative video(s). I have never made anything like this, but as a mason with more than 30 years experience, who has built and or repaired many brick and block planters, I have a few suggestions that might make these planters winter better. The expansion of wet soil sooner or later, breaks all planters, at least in cold environments. I would consider making your rebar stakes with a "T" handle on top, so you could just pull them out for the winter. You are right thinking of bigger holes, or smaller bar for some expansion room, however, if it's enough room the first winter, you will not have that room the second. When the ground freezes the first, and pushes everything out, instead of contracting the second, when it thaws, soil will settle, filling all that expansion room that you had to begin with. The best way to think of it is soil doesn't contract (although technically it may some), is instead of expanding in and out, it goes out then down, out then down, but never in. Another idea that is used on masonry planters is to line the inside of them with foam board. The board can be just a little lower than the soil surface for appearance. But just like above, it will eventually get so compressed, you lose your expansion room. Also with masonry planters, often the bottom is filled with gravel and weep holes are left at the bottom so that excessive moisture can drain. This idea usually fails for a few reasons. Even with a fabric of some sort above the gravel, and especially without, eventually, soil will find it's way to the spaces between the gravel, causing it to lose it's drainability, and to expand when frozen too. Also the soil above doesn't need excessive moisture to expand, damp is enough. On top of all of that. If you live someplace like I do, where the ground freezes for months but there are days warm enough to thaw snow on the surface without thawing the ground, water and ice will accumulate near the surface, above that gravel. It won't drain at the bottom, because all that moisture doesn't get to the bottom. The best advice I can give people for masonry planter is to try all those things above, in combination they'll prolong the planter's lifespan, but the best solution is to just count on expansion. And to figure out how to just let it go. If your planter system can just let the expansion happen while not breaking, you don't need any of the methods above. Instead of solid boxes, you can make walls without solid corners, etc. You could do this by pulling out the rebar. If it won't go back in in the spring, at least something didn't break. You could just remove some soil from the edges, so it would fit together, then refill it. That freezing water is strong stuff, it'll break an engine block. I've found it easier to work with it, than to try to stop it.
You found out the hard way how a perched water table works. It is NOT the soil that fills the spaces in the gravel it is literally the size of the spaces of the gravel right below the tiny pores of the soil. Water will not drain UNTIL the soil above is saturated. Putting gravel, drain rock, packing peanuts, logs (hugelkulture) beneath the soil ruins the drainage!
@@MANaboutTOOLS would you consider pinning this to the top of your thread? This comment and the one by Gordon L would be beneficial if pinned. The latter comment is presently the second comment (due to the likes) but I suspect people do not read every comment as I tend to do. I like how positive, helpful and respectful are virtually all of the comments on each of your videos. It's lovely to see.
Really nice plans, purchased both sets. Built 6 x 4ft forms using the framing lumber plans (shown in this video). Made a couple of minor changes: shortened the "long" side boards by 1.5 inches, this then allowed for making all of the end pieces 4 inches long. I also did not use the wooden dowel pieces to hold the plastic pipe in place, I drilled a 5/8 hole all the way though the long side board, and then a corresponding 5/8 "pocket" (partially drilled though hole). After "oiling the form", I insert a 7 inch long 5/8 inch bolt through the hole in the long side board, through the wire wrapped plastic pipe into the corresponding pocket hole on the other side of the form. Removing the panel, I just pull out the bolt, I did not have to take the form a part. I would very much echo the comments made in the video that finding straight, knot-free framing lumber is hard. Filling in all of the imperfections in the framing effort takes time. I might consider going the original plywood route next time. The tip on using a reciprocating saw (without the blade on) to vibrate the form is genius. Again, thanks for this wonderful idea for raised garden bed forms. Only 5 more sets to cast (easy part)
@@h82fail For the most part yes. I have now used the forms to create 4 sets of bed walls (6 forms) so I have "unformed" 24 of them - I have had to take the form apart to unmold only a couple of them. I also use a razor knife and a putty knife between the edge of the form and the concrete. That said, the more I have used the forms, they have developed some "twists" making each set a little harder to unmold. While I really like the completed garden beds and think this is an excellent approach, next time I am going to go with the plywood (plan set 1) approach. Framing lumber is not stable. Other things have delayed me, but I intend to do 2 more sets of bedwalls to get up to 6 x 4'x8' beds. Using the bolt approach does add to the initial cost. Good luck. These made my wife very happy.
@@lancecluster Methinks using ready rod or even a wooden dowel of sufficient length would work just as well as high priced bolts. Haven't actually tried it but seems to me it should work just fine.
You are very talented and super thorough. Great designs and craftsmanship. I also noticed that you took people's complaints as "constructive criticism" and instead of getting mad you went to work to improve your craft! Good job!
Thank you for publishing this. Great detail, alternative construction methods & materials! Your design really solves several problems with other materials. Terrific job! I'll integrate this into my garden
Going to give it a shot. modifying plans a bit to make them all multiples of 24" so I can make it like any Tetris piece shaped garden I need. Thanks for the video!
I loved this video! Amazing design and very thorough demonstration. Also a very pleasant and well spoken voice. Dare i say it, BEST how to video EVER!!!
You, my friend, are golden! Thank you so much for the thoroughly guided beautiful animation 🅰️➕️ You are like a beloved instructor or a museum narrator. Very calming to meditate to. ☯️
Great job on trouble shooting for everyone. I was going to make my garden beds out of timbers this year but I think I just found out what im going to do with all my bags of concrete I have in my garage. This is a awesome idea. Thank you for simplifying it.
I made a set of forms from your first video. It was a long and slow process but I made 2-48" 2-36" 2-16" and 1-24" with two extra blocks to fill in the corners if I choose to make a fenced area instead of a box. I also added small insets to the ends for looks. Now my wife and I are gonna try em out! I will post pics when done. I also should add that I used 5x5 3/4" cabinet grade maple plywood and so I had to modify the cuts. It was a better value than 5x8 and I did not want orphan pieces left over. Thank you for your videos and the affordable plans download!!!
Great idea and video. Very professionally done. I have made about 35 of the 4' panels so far. Going to replace all my and mother in law's raised beds for tomatoes, okra, squash, etc. They look very nice in place and don't have to be replaced every 2-4 years, hopefully.
Great video. Just a couple of things you might consider. Instead of the 2"x 10" you could have used two 2"x 6" and put them together with an off set to eliminate the corner cuts and all your lumber can be 2"x 6" material. Also instead gluing the short pieces dowels you could send a dowel all the way through to hold the pipe in place. Then pull the dowel out when it's set up. you might be able to eliminate the pipe altogether by using a coated piece of smooth steel rod (stainless?) so it didn't stick to the concrete. As to your concerns of using dimensional lumber you might consider pressure treated lumber. But your right that plywood would be preferred. Just the cost would be significantly higher. Lastly to the point of keeping the concrete wet for two weeks I'm considering placing them in a kiddie pool. I have one that is 5'x 9'. Great Idea and thank you for sharing.
Now I know what to do this summer - I will prepare for the next agricultural season! Specifically prepare! Thank you so much for the idea! Теперь я знаю чем мне заняться этим летом - буду готовиться к следующему агросезону! Конкретно готовиться! Спасибо огромное за идею!
Thanks Kent! Appreciate this, and now you have sold me on the new plans as well. I was just at the local Home Center today to price out materials and then low and behold an email from you about this new video and plans. Thank you for this addition.
Thanks for this video and the plans. I modified the length to 54" overall instead of 48" to make the inside dimensions closer to 48" for square foot gardening. And I used materials I had on hand - PVC coated 2"x2" rabbit/deer fencing for the reinforcement. Given the most recent video with the tensile testing I think these modifications, while weakening the strength, still will result in a perfectly workable panel for what it is. (It isn't holding up my house or anything.) And is infinitely more durable than wood (creep, rot, weed-wacker marring).
If your worried about moisture with the concrete, you can always paint them or use water seal for the concrete. The powder dyes are an option as well. The possibilities are up to your imagination or budget. I'll need some more tools before I try. Thanks for your post!
Great design and great effort. The second form set is by far the smartest way, also im sure you have heard from other mud men out here but #2 fuel oil or diesel will give you a longer lasting coat for the dimensional lumber. Also they wont warp or twist like you may experience with a top coat like you have been using. After a few diesel baths, they will be coated permanently and you wont need to coat every time. other than that minor detail, again, great how to for a DIY'er
I like the idea of using the 2x stock for the forms. I would just waterproof them well. Rustoleum makes a product called Neverwet that is a super hydrophobic spray coating that repels water. It is blowaway fabulous. Would absolutely keep moisture from warping forms. One would not have to use a release agent on the wood before the concrete pour. You could also shoot some texture product like truck undercoating on your forms to give the panels more of a split-face cinder block appearance. This was a great vid. Opens up a world of ideas. Well done!
this was a great idea. i watched your old video and made some forms myself. being a model maker i added designs on the side and even made corners with radius and different locking design with lego style features so rebar is not needed. mine i can added notches so one can add hoop style greenhouse/cover also. so many things can be done with concrete, jut depends how elaborate you want the molds.
Hi Kent. I like your design and think I saw version 1 a while ago. I was thinking you could remove the decorative inlay and then add mounts for pvc like you did for the corners for the rebar. With a pvc pipe maybe every foot, you could use the hole for framing for a greenhouse hoop and extend the growing season. I think I may try this with your first version as you said it may be more durable. Do you think this design will be structurally sound?
I was thinking the same idea as you. The decorative inlay sounds pointless, but I didn't think how it would affect the pvc for your idea. Did you ever try it? I am looking to buy a cement mixer and getting started.
I would suggest you NOT introduce a point of weakness (ie holes that could fill with water & freeze, decreasing both the longevity of the casted concrete and risking aesthetic (if not structural) damage. One can add hoops by simply placing the ends into the soil inside the raised bed, against the outer walls. One can also use cattle wire or the ladder style metal used to reinforce concrete block walls....although I can not locate the latter in Canada. Just a suggestion. No disrespect intended.
Here's a simpler way to make the forms to cast these concrete garden box panels. See the written instructions here: manabouttools.com/make-concrete-garden-boxes-part-2/ To support this channel and future content, please click here: www.patreon.com/manabouttools Here is the weight of 3 panels that are cured: . 48" - 69lbs, 36" - 50lbs, 24" - 33lbs.
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing this heavy duty technique. So far your garden space has been flat and fairly level. Do you have any ideas about forms for building on slopes? Sure would love to see your creativity on slope beds.
We made several of these garden boxes and they turned out amazing!! From one of the original plywood forms, we’ve already made half a dozen boxes and they’re holding up fantastically!
Great job! I'm tempted to try a rammed earth version using a top-loading version of those new, sturdier forms. Sand, clay, with a little Portland cement added to stabilize the mixture and make it water resistant. SUBSCRIBED!
@@tswrench I remember reading, long ago, about some early construction in South Carolina that involved building walls with rammed earth. The walls outlasted most of the rest of the building by something like over a hundred years. Pretty amazing!
@@CoolBreeze640 -- Absolutely. There are rammed earth structures all over this planet that are centuries old, and that's with no concrete stabilizers in the mix.
We built your forms based on the original version and had zero problems. Haven't stained them yet so will switch to the mineral oil. THANKS for sharing everything!
I will deffinately be making these in my near future, they are so versatile and one can change the layout and place of the boxes any time you change the garden as I often do when in the backyard, thank you for the ideas, very simple work and explanations!!!!!!
got my plans two months ago ,I have made 12 sides my 5/8 rod was to tight on the first one so I will put that side to the ground.looking forward to make the new forms .thanks!
You should make a deal with Home Depot and sell these finished pieces or the frames so people can easily create long lasting garden beds at home. I’d buy them!!
This is a nice follow up video. I look forward to the lightweight concrete experiments. Have you considered adding tint to the mix for colored concrete?
I am loving this! I have some questions. How many casts do you get from each mold? Do the screws that you hold the mold together with eventually get weak since you;re taking the molds apart all the time? Thanks!
Great video. I was thinking about making a concrete garden box but had no idea how I should start. Your video is extremely helpful to me on how to make a concrete boxes. Thank you sir very much. Liked and subed.
So I’ve cast quite a few of these with a modified version, I use 1/2” copper pipe like your super simple garden box version instead of the dowel pins, about 14” long copper with a tee on the end. When it’s time to pop them, I use a tire iron thru the tee and tap the pin out. I’ve also made a larger version using 2x4’ 3/4 plywood, 2x6 sides (trimmed to 5 1/4”) and 2x4 braces under the plywood to attach the sides. They’re heavy but there’s less casting, slightly thicker, and taller for less back breaking bending during weeding. I sent the pics and PDF to your Facebook account.
These are great and modular! Your panels can be moved anywhere but require making forms. My flip-side version uses free blocks, but they can't be moved. I'll find my video.
Hey I really loved your video! I saw the first one and second and I really enjoyed your methodology. It is obviously well thought out and took a lot of patience! Thanks.
Why not build a house, man? Seriously. Practical, simple, easy to design with and calculate materials, low maintenance exterior, and any handy and reasonably intelligent person could assemble. I hope you get a patent on this, brother. This is a mass production concept. Thanks.
If you like learning about new construction, I recommend you guys check out Insulated Concrete Form construction. It's been around for a bit and similar in practicality to Man About Wood's forms, but more suitable for living spaces. If I ever get around to building my own home, I plan on looking into ICF. I may also end up making some of these for my back yard!
Alison Addicks thanks, man. Gonna check out Edison’s version. Usually when I think I’ve just invented the coolest thing ever, I find out it’s already been done.
@@grannypantsification not gonna lie....completely forgot about this comment. Thank you for reminding me ad I am building raised beds this season....lol.
I now have molds ready-to-go here: manabouttools.com/store-plastic-concrete-molds/
I do love that mold, & will probably eventually buy one or more, but just to be clear -- the panels coming out of your sturdy plastic molds can't be stacked as seen early in this video, can they? My brother, an engineer, was speculating about this with me.
1°) You solved my problem.
2°) Your video is clear, well structured. Animated 3D make things even clearer and pleasant to watch. The way you provide alternatives and options for tools and processes is really useful.
3°) The video is not only efficient and clear. It's friendly. It put a smile on my face. No bragging. And a nice house cat.
Do you realize how many people you're going to help with this ?
Thank you so much ... from France.
Have a nice day !
These are great , I've been wanting raised garden beds and this popped up . I'll add one thing , if you want maximum strength , keep the concrete modules submerged in water for 2 weeks after they come out of the molds . I used to test concrete cylinders to destruction in a laboratory many years ago , 2 weeks underwater gives max. strength .
Thanks for the Tip Gordon!
Not doubting you at all.....just curious as to how that would work? I would think submerging before fully cured would make them weaker?
@@Narel666 The idea is to stop the concrete from drying quickly , when concrete is cast or poured it has an extremely high moisture content , once it has set , keeping it wet allows it to cure fully and develop maximum compression strength .
When I poured my workshop slab and after it could be walked on , I covered it with builders plastic and wet it under the plastic 3 times a day for 10 days or so before building on it , 18 years later there are no cracks , no powdering , it's still perfect .
Basically if concrete dries too quickly it is detrimental to the curing process.
@@Gordon_L And properly initial curing helps concrete to get harder with age. But you already know that.
Any thoughts on the diy aircrete applications? The properties are remarkable imo especially the Rfactor and wall casting options (thinking tiny cabin). I’m wondering if these molds would work well with aircrete? Lastly air Crete is very buoyant, I’m curious if density would still benefit from water set up?
If you leave the rebar longer, you can do hoops for a plastic cover. Or just build a frame, and BAM, an instant cold frame, or hot house, or whatever. I can also see this being a compost bin...easy to disassemble when you want to "harvest" the black gold...
good point
Compost bins would work better with small gaps between layers for air to get in. I suppose you could easily make some corner pieces to separate the layers.
I was thinking you could put a bend at the end of the rebar to act as a handle to remove the rebar pins. Just a thought since I don't have a welder to add the washers he suggested.
Despite my first time working with concrete, despite my terrible carpentry skills, and despite this is my first time trying a plan I purchased via UA-cam, my first panels came out GREAT!!!! Excellent plans that even a moron like me can follow! Can't wait to install!! Thanks!
I am fortunate to have a table saw and miter saw, but I think it is really nice of you to discuss other ways to make the cuts for folks who don’t have those tools. After watching the entire video, I want to add that your presentation and discussion of the steps and why you are taking them is superb.
Thank you very much!
TOP quality how to video. I will be makeing a bunch of these to replace my rotting wood raised beds. Thank you for the precise details.
just use big concrete rings and safe all that work!
He don't speed it up much if at all either, you have watch it in real time.
@@TheEscape2012
Would those weigh a lot? I'm imagining those large concrete water pipes used for storm drainage.
Excellent improvements. By far the best raised bed idea I have found.
I love these. Replacing rotted timber boxes around the house. Made mine 16 inches tall with plywood because that is the hieght of the existing timbers. Just upsized everything. Kind of gives a mid century modern sort of look. Thanks for the great idea!
Thanks Patrick!
I’m a mold builder.
We use Plastilina Modeling Clay rather than caulking for the corners.
You don’t have to wait for it to dry and you can build your chamfered edge as big as you want.
We use Vaseline to smooth it out.
If you use fiber reinforced cement you can do away with the steel reinforcement.
web link please on Plastilina Modeling Clay, THX
@@AndreyTikhiy www.sculpturehouse.com/s-99-plastilina.aspx
Extrapolate these garden box forms into an interior bed room wall, an exterior living room wall...a courtyard wall...these concrete box forms supply an endless source of building ideas...very cool stuff.
As built and designed making something out of these that is that tall could be dangerous. Why not simply use the same design idea but make the panels taller. For commercial buildings this is exactly how they do it. The commercial design is called tilt-up construction. Once all these panels are tilted up and fastened together it is a safe and strong design.
Watched Part 1 and thought this was great. Now seeing the use of the dimensionaly lumber, even better. Great design and great video. Thanks for sharing.
I liked the fretless bass!
This series of videos are done very well! Thanks for doing them! They are informative and clear. I also appreciate the plans being made available. You put a lot of effort into this and it shows. I also appreciate the positive/constructive comments from the viewers. It's a joy not having to sift through negative and sometimes ugly comments. Thank you!
Thank you very much for your support and kind words! I really appreciate that. Cheers, Kent
This is a wonderful system that any DIYr should be able to handle. For a little more money MDO plywood makes excellent forms. These are something that can be shared with friends and family and would be super gifts.
You're the man Kent. Thanks for giving this next generation a leg up!
I used your 'Method' to make 2 meter Grape Vine Posts with plastic piping incast holes for my Grape Vines >>> Excellent Success !!!!! >>> Thank you !
Thank you SO MUCH. This is perfect for what I'm planning on building (25' x 3' bed, stacked 3' high) I'll be making them taller to the 1' hight instead of 8". I was at first a little daunted about the construction of the plans when I bought the old plans, but I was willing to tackle it. These plans are way easier! I'm more than happy to support the page and buy both sets even though I don't believe I'll be going the plywood route.
Again, I cannot thank you enough for making this public information, and the videos are wonderful.
How nice to see you sharing your idea's for satisfaction rather than gain. Must give you great pleasure. Thanks and well done.
Thanks!!
Your first video about these forms for raised beds motivated me so much, I built a 24x24 workshop so I'd have a place to build and store the forms. Thanks for the motivation. I've been sitting around twiddling my thumbs for far too long. :)
WOW! That is awesome! Enjoy...
...Thumbs need exercise, too! There may be a connection between thumb twiddling and creative thinking...just my theory.
Now start production and make and sell these panels. $25.00 per panel, and yes, people will pay it, maybe even more.
Very good idea, and very informative video(s). I have never made anything like this, but as a mason with more than 30 years experience, who has built and or repaired many brick and block planters, I have a few suggestions that might make these planters winter better. The expansion of wet soil sooner or later, breaks all planters, at least in cold environments. I would consider making your rebar stakes with a "T" handle on top, so you could just pull them out for the winter. You are right thinking of bigger holes, or smaller bar for some expansion room, however, if it's enough room the first winter, you will not have that room the second. When the ground freezes the first, and pushes everything out, instead of contracting the second, when it thaws, soil will settle, filling all that expansion room that you had to begin with. The best way to think of it is soil doesn't contract (although technically it may some), is instead of expanding in and out, it goes out then down, out then down, but never in.
Another idea that is used on masonry planters is to line the inside of them with foam board. The board can be just a little lower than the soil surface for appearance. But just like above, it will eventually get so compressed, you lose your expansion room.
Also with masonry planters, often the bottom is filled with gravel and weep holes are left at the bottom so that excessive moisture can drain. This idea usually fails for a few reasons. Even with a fabric of some sort above the gravel, and especially without, eventually, soil will find it's way to the spaces between the gravel, causing it to lose it's drainability, and to expand when frozen too. Also the soil above doesn't need excessive moisture to expand, damp is enough. On top of all of that. If you live someplace like I do, where the ground freezes for months but there are days warm enough to thaw snow on the surface without thawing the ground, water and ice will accumulate near the surface, above that gravel. It won't drain at the bottom, because all that moisture doesn't get to the bottom.
The best advice I can give people for masonry planter is to try all those things above, in combination they'll prolong the planter's lifespan, but the best solution is to just count on expansion. And to figure out how to just let it go. If your planter system can just let the expansion happen while not breaking, you don't need any of the methods above. Instead of solid boxes, you can make walls without solid corners, etc. You could do this by pulling out the rebar. If it won't go back in in the spring, at least something didn't break. You could just remove some soil from the edges, so it would fit together, then refill it. That freezing water is strong stuff, it'll break an engine block. I've found it easier to work with it, than to try to stop it.
Brad, thanks so much for all your ideas and suggestions here. It's very much appreciated!
You found out the hard way how a perched water table works. It is NOT the soil that fills the spaces in the gravel it is literally the size of the spaces of the gravel right below the tiny pores of the soil. Water will not drain UNTIL the soil above is saturated. Putting gravel, drain rock, packing peanuts, logs (hugelkulture) beneath the soil ruins the drainage!
Instead of rebar rods how about casting eye bolts in and then holding it all together with those bare rubber bungie cords, under the dirt?
@@MANaboutTOOLS would you consider pinning this to the top of your thread? This comment and the one by Gordon L would be beneficial if pinned.
The latter comment is presently the second comment (due to the likes) but I suspect people do not read every comment as I tend to do.
I like how positive, helpful and respectful are virtually all of the comments on each of your videos.
It's lovely to see.
Really nice plans, purchased both sets. Built 6 x 4ft forms using the framing lumber plans (shown in this video). Made a couple of minor changes: shortened the "long" side boards by 1.5 inches, this then allowed for making all of the end pieces 4 inches long. I also did not use the wooden dowel pieces to hold the plastic pipe in place, I drilled a 5/8 hole all the way though the long side board, and then a corresponding 5/8 "pocket" (partially drilled though hole). After "oiling the form", I insert a 7 inch long 5/8 inch bolt through the hole in the long side board, through the wire wrapped plastic pipe into the corresponding pocket hole on the other side of the form. Removing the panel, I just pull out the bolt, I did not have to take the form a part. I would very much echo the comments made in the video that finding straight, knot-free framing lumber is hard. Filling in all of the imperfections in the framing effort takes time. I might consider going the original plywood route next time. The tip on using a reciprocating saw (without the blade on) to vibrate the form is genius. Again, thanks for this wonderful idea for raised garden bed forms. Only 5 more sets to cast (easy part)
Your able to remove it from the form without taking it apart? Do you just turn it over and knock on the form with a hammer?
@@h82fail For the most part yes. I have now used the forms to create 4 sets of bed walls (6 forms) so I have "unformed" 24 of them - I have had to take the form apart to unmold only a couple of them. I also use a razor knife and a putty knife between the edge of the form and the concrete. That said, the more I have used the forms, they have developed some "twists" making each set a little harder to unmold. While I really like the completed garden beds and think this is an excellent approach, next time I am going to go with the plywood (plan set 1) approach. Framing lumber is not stable. Other things have delayed me, but I intend to do 2 more sets of bedwalls to get up to 6 x 4'x8' beds. Using the bolt approach does add to the initial cost. Good luck. These made my wife very happy.
@@lancecluster Methinks using ready rod or even a wooden dowel of sufficient length would work just as well as high priced bolts. Haven't actually tried it but seems to me it should work just fine.
You are very talented and super thorough. Great designs and craftsmanship. I also noticed that you took people's complaints as "constructive criticism" and instead of getting mad you went to work to improve your craft! Good job!
True, straight, quality lumber... amen on that.
So rare.
Thank you for publishing this. Great detail, alternative construction methods & materials! Your design really solves several problems with other materials. Terrific job! I'll integrate this into my garden
Thank you!!
This is one of the best videos I have seen!!! You are an excellent instructor. Thank you for sharing this wonderful design.
Why thank you very much! I really appreciate your kind words and support! Cheers, Kent
I saw your last video and started to think about a simplified design but gave up. I'm so glad tha you did this design! It's great!
Going to give it a shot. modifying plans a bit to make them all multiples of 24" so I can make it like any Tetris piece shaped garden I need. Thanks for the video!
Man after my own heart, lol. :)
Excellent SIMPLIFYING. Clever and well done Sir.
Thank you kindly!
I loved this video! Amazing design and very thorough demonstration. Also a very pleasant and well spoken voice. Dare i say it, BEST how to video EVER!!!
WOW! Thank you very much! I so appreciate your kind words!
Super duper. Thanks a lot for the revision of initial design. It is so much manageable now. Thanks again.
You, my friend, are golden! Thank you so much for the thoroughly guided beautiful animation 🅰️➕️
You are like a beloved instructor or a museum narrator. Very calming to meditate to. ☯️
Great job on trouble shooting for everyone. I was going to make my garden beds out of timbers this year but I think I just found out what im going to do with all my bags of concrete I have in my garage. This is a awesome idea. Thank you for simplifying it.
Wow! This is an awesome idea, and great execution.
This was so cool! A DIY Greenhouse video would be amazing as well since you are talented enough to make pavillions and gazebos.
I made a set of forms from your first video. It was a long and slow process but I made 2-48" 2-36" 2-16" and 1-24" with two extra blocks to fill in the corners if I choose to make a fenced area instead of a box. I also added small insets to the ends for looks. Now my wife and I are gonna try em out! I will post pics when done. I also should add that I used 5x5 3/4" cabinet grade maple plywood and so I had to modify the cuts. It was a better value than 5x8 and I did not want orphan pieces left over. Thank you for your videos and the affordable plans download!!!
You're very welcome! I'm delighted to hear that it's going well! Cheers, Kent
Great idea and video. Very professionally done. I have made about 35 of the 4' panels so far. Going to replace all my and mother in law's raised beds for tomatoes, okra, squash, etc. They look very nice in place and don't have to be replaced every 2-4 years, hopefully.
What a wonderful son-in-law! How kind of you to replace not only your own beds but those of your wifu's mother as well.
Absolute genius! I cant wait to get started.
These boxes are genius.
Great video. Just a couple of things you might consider. Instead of the 2"x 10" you could have used two 2"x 6" and put them together with an off set to eliminate the corner cuts and all your lumber can be 2"x 6" material. Also instead gluing the short pieces dowels you could send a dowel all the way through to hold the pipe in place. Then pull the dowel out when it's set up. you might be able to eliminate the pipe altogether by using a coated piece of smooth steel rod (stainless?) so it didn't stick to the concrete. As to your concerns of using dimensional lumber you might consider pressure treated lumber. But your right that plywood would be preferred. Just the cost would be significantly higher. Lastly to the point of keeping the concrete wet for two weeks I'm considering placing them in a kiddie pool. I have one that is 5'x 9'. Great Idea and thank you for sharing.
Excellent job, throughly enjoyed it.
Thanks 👏
Thanks!!
Thank you ...thank you ...thank you...your idea is amazing...very intelligent design sir
Now I know what to do this summer - I will prepare for the next agricultural season! Specifically prepare!
Thank you so much for the idea!
Теперь я знаю чем мне заняться этим летом - буду готовиться к следующему агросезону! Конкретно готовиться! Спасибо огромное за идею!
Good job explaining the how to! I also enjoyed how you interlaced the sketchup model with video!
I also liked the caption for the house cat. :)
You can build much more with these blocks, like fence, retaining wall, even a small room with concreted roof. Thumbs up 👍👍👌
This is a brilliant design! You're a great designer and technician!! Everything you do with artistic flair and perfect craftsmanship!
just use big concrete rings and safe all that work!
Absolutely brilliant! Love this 1000%! Thank you friend!
Thank you too!
Thanks Kent! Appreciate this, and now you have sold me on the new plans as well. I was just at the local Home Center today to price out materials and then low and behold an email from you about this new video and plans. Thank you for this addition.
Thanks for this video and the plans.
I modified the length to 54" overall instead of 48" to make the inside dimensions closer to 48" for square foot gardening. And I used materials I had on hand - PVC coated 2"x2" rabbit/deer fencing for the reinforcement. Given the most recent video with the tensile testing I think these modifications, while weakening the strength, still will result in a perfectly workable panel for what it is. (It isn't holding up my house or anything.) And is infinitely more durable than wood (creep, rot, weed-wacker marring).
If your worried about moisture with the concrete, you can always paint them or use water seal for the concrete. The powder dyes are an option as well. The possibilities are up to your imagination or budget. I'll need some more tools before I try. Thanks for your post!
Love the ideas! Great video comes across very clear and concise! You are very informative and knowledgeable. Thank you for the great content!!
Great design and great effort. The second form set is by far the smartest way, also im sure you have heard from other mud men out here but #2 fuel oil or diesel will give you a longer lasting coat for the dimensional lumber. Also they wont warp or twist like you may experience with a top coat like you have been using. After a few diesel baths, they will be coated permanently and you wont need to coat every time. other than that minor detail, again, great how to for a DIY'er
So you literally paint the molds with diesel?
awesome idea, professional representation and great attitude. subscribed.
I like the idea of using the 2x stock for the forms. I would just waterproof them well. Rustoleum makes a product called Neverwet that is a super hydrophobic spray coating that repels water. It is blowaway fabulous. Would absolutely keep moisture from warping forms. One would not have to use a release agent on the wood before the concrete pour. You could also shoot some texture product like truck undercoating on your forms to give the panels more of a split-face cinder block appearance. This was a great vid. Opens up a world of ideas. Well done!
this was a great idea. i watched your old video and made some forms myself. being a model maker i added designs on the side and even made corners with radius and different locking design with lego style features so rebar is not needed. mine i can added notches so one can add hoop style greenhouse/cover also. so many things can be done with concrete, jut depends how elaborate you want the molds.
Don't ever apologize for a good bass line. Good bass players are a dying breed. ;)
Chris Squire, RIP...
Nice way to build a durable and affordable box will be doing these when my cedar needs replaced
Hi Kent. I like your design and think I saw version 1 a while ago. I was thinking you could remove the decorative inlay and then add mounts for pvc like you did for the corners for the rebar. With a pvc pipe maybe every foot, you could use the hole for framing for a greenhouse hoop and extend the growing season. I think I may try this with your first version as you said it may be more durable. Do you think this design will be structurally sound?
I was thinking the same idea as you. The decorative inlay sounds pointless, but I didn't think how it would affect the pvc for your idea. Did you ever try it? I am looking to buy a cement mixer and getting started.
I would suggest you NOT introduce a point of weakness (ie holes that could fill with water & freeze, decreasing both the longevity of the casted concrete and risking aesthetic (if not structural) damage.
One can add hoops by simply placing the ends into the soil inside the raised bed, against the outer walls. One can also use cattle wire or the ladder style metal used to reinforce concrete block walls....although I can not locate the latter in Canada.
Just a suggestion. No disrespect intended.
Here's a simpler way to make the forms to cast these concrete garden box panels. See the written instructions here: manabouttools.com/make-concrete-garden-boxes-part-2/
To support this channel and future content, please click here: www.patreon.com/manabouttools
Here is the weight of 3 panels that are cured: . 48" - 69lbs, 36" - 50lbs, 24" - 33lbs.
That was an awesome idea! Thank you for sharing it.
TY for your time and effort- and the follow up is great. You are a great man.
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing this heavy duty technique. So far your garden space has been flat and fairly level. Do you have any ideas about forms for building on slopes? Sure would love to see your creativity on slope beds.
Thanks for your job.
Congratulations from Brazil
Thank you very much!
Great work Kent! Killer project and awesome video as always!
Thanks Jim! This one seemed to take forever to get finished.
MAN about TOOLS worth the wait!
We made several of these garden boxes and they turned out amazing!! From one of the original plywood forms, we’ve already made half a dozen boxes and they’re holding up fantastically!
Try using papercrete or aircrete with fiber reinforced cement!
Great job! I'm tempted to try a rammed earth version using a top-loading version of those new, sturdier forms. Sand, clay, with a little Portland cement added to stabilize the mixture and make it water resistant. SUBSCRIBED!
Did you try the rammed earth method? If so, how did it turn out?
@@CoolBreeze640 -- Unfortunately, no. However, I still have a high degree of confidence that it would work.
@@tswrench
I remember reading, long ago, about some early construction in South Carolina that involved building walls with rammed earth. The walls outlasted most of the rest of the building by something like over a hundred years. Pretty amazing!
@@CoolBreeze640 -- Absolutely. There are rammed earth structures all over this planet that are centuries old, and that's with no concrete stabilizers in the mix.
We built your forms based on the original version and had zero problems. Haven't stained them yet so will switch to the mineral oil. THANKS for sharing everything!
pharmacies also sell food grade mineral oil for very low cost as well.
I will deffinately be making these in my near future, they are so versatile and one can change the layout and place of the boxes any time you change the garden as I often do when in the backyard, thank you for the ideas, very simple work and explanations!!!!!!
got my plans two months ago ,I have made 12 sides my 5/8 rod was to tight on the first one so I will put that side to the ground.looking forward to make the new forms .thanks!
I appreciate how the parts made in alternative timelines have a slightly de-saturated color.
Thanks!!
That was an absolutely nice video, thanks for sharing and looking forward to your other projects too.
Awesome project !
Great video !
Thank you for sharing
👏😀❤️
Thank you! Cheers!
You should make a deal with Home Depot and sell these finished pieces or the frames so people can easily create long lasting garden beds at home. I’d buy them!!
Me too!!
@@JC-mx1mk ME TOO!!!!
I would definitely buy them.
Wonderful how adjustable these can be!
This is a nice follow up video. I look forward to the lightweight concrete experiments.
Have you considered adding tint to the mix for colored concrete?
Thanks Martin! I'm yet to experiment with tints. Want to have a look at the tint ingredients as well.
Tinting is something I have planned to experiment with, using milk paint powder.
I like that amazing work, it"s easy and simple to do. Thank you for the idea.
Thank you! Cheers!
You could also use some concrete stains in the mix
Great project and video. I would figure out the right size so that one bag of concrete fills one form. Thanks and commenting for the algo and stuff.
I am loving this! I have some questions. How many casts do you get from each mold? Do the screws that you hold the mold together with eventually get weak since you;re taking the molds apart all the time? Thanks!
Really clever designs that are very cost effective, especially with the cost of materials these days.
Nice job. I'll try it. Thank you very much.
you updated your beds
nice design
I don't recognize the words "too much" when talking about bass. ;) Love this idea now I just have to convince my husband!
Yeah... That's just NOT a thing, right? I think Geddy Lee would agree!
Definitely!! Best music’s channel of DIY 😍
Great video. I was thinking about making a concrete garden box but had no idea how I should start. Your video is extremely helpful to me on how to make a concrete boxes. Thank you sir very much. Liked and subed.
Thank you very much!
I love these panels. I wish I could buy them at Home Depot.
Too bad they would charge $40 each segment lol
@@unsilentzone3357 I understand the inflated sarcasm for effect, but I think they could sell those for about $10-15 for 3-foot segments.
@Max Roberts Then you can certainly pay someone to custom-make them for you. You don't need Home Depot.
Great tutorial video. Worth to watch - from Sarawak, Malaysia
Here’s some positive reactions: 🙌😊👍!
So I’ve cast quite a few of these with a modified version, I use 1/2” copper pipe like your super simple garden box version instead of the dowel pins, about 14” long copper with a tee on the end. When it’s time to pop them, I use a tire iron thru the tee and tap the pin out. I’ve also made a larger version using 2x4’ 3/4 plywood, 2x6 sides (trimmed to 5 1/4”) and 2x4 braces under the plywood to attach the sides. They’re heavy but there’s less casting, slightly thicker, and taller for less back breaking bending during weeding. I sent the pics and PDF to your Facebook account.
lightweight... Perlite with increased fiberglass (more than a pinch) ?
don't know why this was in my sidebar suggested videos but this and part 1 are really well done! Learned a lot and want to go make some now myself
How many bags does it take to make just one of the 48" panels? I'm trying to figure out the cost locally.
It takes about 60 lbs of dry mix.
I like your new design. By making different size bases, I can use the same sides & end caps.
Thank you so much for sharing this simplified form design. It is truly excellent. Have you thought about mixing some color into the concrete?
I'd asked the same of another maker who explained that color additives can compromise the strength of the piece.
Glen Faught Jr Nah, not true. Strength will not be compromised.
a good masonry paint is an alternative to colour pigments
Color? How about glitter!
These are great and modular! Your panels can be moved anywhere but require making forms. My flip-side version uses free blocks, but they can't be moved. I'll find my video.
Hey I really loved your video!
I saw the first one and second and I really enjoyed your methodology. It is obviously well thought out and took a lot of patience!
Thanks.
Why not build a house, man? Seriously. Practical, simple, easy to design with and calculate materials, low maintenance exterior, and any handy and reasonably intelligent person could assemble. I hope you get a patent on this, brother. This is a mass production concept. Thanks.
If you like learning about new construction, I recommend you guys check out Insulated Concrete Form construction. It's been around for a bit and similar in practicality to Man About Wood's forms, but more suitable for living spaces. If I ever get around to building my own home, I plan on looking into ICF. I may also end up making some of these for my back yard!
Thomas Edison already did.
Alison Addicks thanks, man. Gonna check out Edison’s version. Usually when I think I’ve just invented the coolest thing ever, I find out it’s already been done.
jcgmaudlin thanks, man. Gonna revisit that system. But your right, it’s not really home if it’s not insulated.
This is amazing!!!! Nicely done!
Glad you like it!
seu trabalho é fantástico, grato pelo vídeo VLW
You could have made a fortune off of this man. But I am proud you just wanted to share and have people use your idea. Fantastic.
He still could. Most people don’t have the tools or skills to make the forms. He could sell them in flat packs.
@@grannypantsification not gonna lie....completely forgot about this comment. Thank you for reminding me ad I am building raised beds this season....lol.
You should sell this as a kit you assemble at home.