11:00 a good trick is to put a bit of the coloured dyes you have into one part, mix it in, then you can tell when its fully mixed into the hardener. Even if youre going to paint them afterwards it wont matter.
This stuff looks great! Spue goo is definitely not good for casting, plus, it'll destroy your health. But I'll for sure be getting some of this Flexi mold to use with resin and milliput/green stuff.
With the resin and flexi-mold liquid, you can use a straight bit of sprue held against the lip as you pour for a guide to make it pour better. Any straight smooth thing will do, be it sprue, a spatula, a straw, whatever. Guides the pour so it's less messy and also helps reduce bubbles if those were giving you issues.
Interesting methods you're developing. I'm really enjoying your sprue series. And I did use a piece of sprue in a base I made a few days ago... you're catching.
Have you tried putting some acetone in the mold first before then putting your goo in? It might help to stop some of those bubbles. You'd probably need to overfill and then press with a heavy weight after a couple of minutes too.
Years ago I got one of the old Saurus Start Collecting and for the big dinosaur they give you an option to make two but only give you one body. There was an article way back when about using the box to make characters and the like and I used oymaru and milliput to make another body so I got two big dinosaurs from the one box. I'm definitely going to try this microwaveable mold stuff!
Very interesting. One drawback with casting resin is that it destroys the mold over time. With this, could it just be reheated and remade again and again? I wonder if the material degrades over a number of cycles. Anyway, thanks for doing these experiments.
Food for thought: if you want to avoid all those air holes in the sprue recasts, try "painting" the inside of each mold with a thin coating of resin or the like before pressing the sprue goo into it. Hopefully, the resin will take longer to set and thus be draw into the air holes as the acetone evaporates out of the sprue goo. Gotta get me some of that Flexi-mold, though. Been looking for a silicone replacement ever since the last stuff I used melted through its own bottle.
Have you tried leaving the goo out to dry for an hour or two before you put it into the mold? Maybe if you evaporate away some of the acetone before it goes into the mold you might get less bubbles.
or deep pitted rust. can see the streaks of rust in my mind, and they're beautiful 😂 Id say it may even look better than the original which looks way too pristine
Could you in theory fill in some of the wholes left in thr sprue-goo casts using a little more sprue goo? Like mark 2 to fill in holes you dont want after curing?
Can you use 3d supports as sprue goo? If so, you could make a video where you print and paint an item, then use the supports to make goo, which you pour into a mould you make in the shape of the sprue sticks you have been collecting and turning into your cool bots. This would help you create your own sprue sticks for more crafting.
i think the holes could also look cool as deep rust pitting in the metal. Would be interesting to see how it turns out with that "dirty down" rust effect, just dollop some in each hole and let it run down the model like real rust would do over time.
to avoid the pock marks could you try laying in the sprue goo mk2 first intop the drtails and then layering in the acetone goo acter to make up the bulk of the material?
well neat stuff got to do it over a gen had some going but the stuff just dried out but the mold stuff that cheff mike heats up did like the blue stuff just wel did look like had lot detal to it well nest vid
Cool video. I have been making casts for years (not for minis but for custom figure casts), but all these recent products are brilliant, especially for being reusable after you have made what you need. PS Why would anyone get upset that you used Lego for a mold surround? It's your Lego/other brand brick. And would difference does it make if you are using another brand if they don't want you using Lego?🤪😂
Looks like goo2.0 creates smoother surface. What if you make extra thin layer of goo2.0, let it cure some time and then fill the rest of the mold with regular sprue goo?
I'm curious to know if heating the sprue goo either before or during moulding would have any impact on how flat the surface is. Might allow the bubbles to escape through the molten goo before it starts hardening
Dear Mr always angry all the time I am going to do just that - but use an old sun bed - 3D printer resins get hot as they cure so its best to do it in the cold
11:00 a good trick is to put a bit of the coloured dyes you have into one part, mix it in, then you can tell when its fully mixed into the hardener. Even if youre going to paint them afterwards it wont matter.
This reusable mold material looks really cool. Makes it so you don't need to spend so much on silicone. Thanks for the advice!
You could try using a vibrating massager to get the bubbles out of the molds.
When you press the Goo into the mold , the mold flexes a lot, maybe you can stiffen it more by keeping it in Legoframe to get en even more crisp cast?
This stuff looks great! Spue goo is definitely not good for casting, plus, it'll destroy your health. But I'll for sure be getting some of this Flexi mold to use with resin and milliput/green stuff.
With the resin and flexi-mold liquid, you can use a straight bit of sprue held against the lip as you pour for a guide to make it pour better. Any straight smooth thing will do, be it sprue, a spatula, a straw, whatever. Guides the pour so it's less messy and also helps reduce bubbles if those were giving you issues.
This way when GW raids you, you can destroy the molds 😂
Interesting methods you're developing. I'm really enjoying your sprue series. And I did use a piece of sprue in a base I made a few days ago... you're catching.
You're making a chaos knight? Awesome! I'll look forward to that.
You've been inspiring me with your experiments just to get started again on whatever project I can.
Have you tried putting some acetone in the mold first before then putting your goo in? It might help to stop some of those bubbles. You'd probably need to overfill and then press with a heavy weight after a couple of minutes too.
Years ago I got one of the old Saurus Start Collecting and for the big dinosaur they give you an option to make two but only give you one body. There was an article way back when about using the box to make characters and the like and I used oymaru and milliput to make another body so I got two big dinosaurs from the one box. I'm definitely going to try this microwaveable mold stuff!
Spreeeww gooooo is a game changer
Those resin ones were really impressive.
I cant wait to see your home made sprou goo2.0
Damn these are great results! Have to try this! Mostly dabbled with spruegoo and oymaru/blue stuff
Always enjoy the sprue videos - dont stop!
Very interesting. One drawback with casting resin is that it destroys the mold over time. With this, could it just be reheated and remade again and again? I wonder if the material degrades over a number of cycles. Anyway, thanks for doing these experiments.
Super cool idea man I love your videos
Food for thought: if you want to avoid all those air holes in the sprue recasts, try "painting" the inside of each mold with a thin coating of resin or the like before pressing the sprue goo into it. Hopefully, the resin will take longer to set and thus be draw into the air holes as the acetone evaporates out of the sprue goo.
Gotta get me some of that Flexi-mold, though. Been looking for a silicone replacement ever since the last stuff I used melted through its own bottle.
Have you tried leaving the goo out to dry for an hour or two before you put it into the mold?
Maybe if you evaporate away some of the acetone before it goes into the mold you might get less bubbles.
Like you mention it yourself at 6:42, the small pox marks all over make it looks perfect for some nurgly piece of terrain or corroded metal scrap.
Oooo! Someones just been taken off the G.W Christmas card list. 😁👍👍
i wonder if a pressure pot would work to reduce bubbles like it does for people who cast resin stuff
The holes caused by the bubbles on the Ork scenery actually look great, they look like bullet holes... becauz' moar DAKKA!
or deep pitted rust. can see the streaks of rust in my mind, and they're beautiful 😂 Id say it may even look better than the original which looks way too pristine
Could you in theory fill in some of the wholes left in thr sprue-goo casts using a little more sprue goo? Like mark 2 to fill in holes you dont want after curing?
Good stuff.
Can you use 3d supports as sprue goo? If so, you could make a video where you print and paint an item, then use the supports to make goo, which you pour into a mould you make in the shape of the sprue sticks you have been collecting and turning into your cool bots. This would help you create your own sprue sticks for more crafting.
i think the holes could also look cool as deep rust pitting in the metal. Would be interesting to see how it turns out with that "dirty down" rust effect, just dollop some in each hole and let it run down the model like real rust would do over time.
to avoid the pock marks could you try laying in the sprue goo mk2 first intop the drtails and then layering in the acetone goo acter to make up the bulk of the material?
awesome, any chance you have any ideas on how to use sprue goo to make craters ?
100k hype. Good vid.
Hope all well brother 👍🔥🤘❤️
well neat stuff got to do it over a gen had some going but the stuff just dried out but the mold stuff that cheff mike heats up did like the blue stuff just wel did look like had lot detal to it well nest vid
for the molds, have you ever tried using a clear 3d resin and curing it in the mold?
Do you perhaps have information which plastic acetone melts in the same or similar way, since I don't have sprus?
Cool video. I have been making casts for years (not for minis but for custom figure casts), but all these recent products are brilliant, especially for being reusable after you have made what you need.
PS Why would anyone get upset that you used Lego for a mold surround? It's your Lego/other brand brick. And would difference does it make if you are using another brand if they don't want you using Lego?🤪😂
Looks like goo2.0 creates smoother surface. What if you make extra thin layer of goo2.0, let it cure some time and then fill the rest of the mold with regular sprue goo?
may the goo be with you!
awesome video.
You should consider buying some putty to fill holes from sprue glue.
new sprue video!!
I'm curious to know if heating the sprue goo either before or during moulding would have any impact on how flat the surface is. Might allow the bubbles to escape through the molten goo before it starts hardening
What could possibly go wrong with heating acetone anyway, it's not explosive in the slightest.
Awsome video again. Just out of couriosity: what whas that yellow putty you used as base of the mould? Looks like Playdoo(tm), lol
Plasticine
your flex mold seems like low temp glue sticks
...that's really nice...if you like all the air bubbles... -_-
You can make that flex mold with flavorless gelatin, glycerin and something else...there's videos on UA-cam you can make alot for like $10
I’m never going to by war hammer 40k kits no plays by me I don’t have the money nore really the time but if I did I would use your approach.
I wonder how 3D printer UV resins would work for this on a sunny day.
Dear Mr always angry all the time
I am going to do just that - but use an old sun bed - 3D printer resins get hot as they cure so its best to do it in the cold
13:02 Say what you want… that is a nasal prosthesis.
I love how you use fake LEGO for the molds. What sort of mad man would use the real deal...
Mate, game changing new kit, my SP is bricks & mortar like, but that epoxy resin with the new moulds 👌🫡 Oof ❤