Generator Engine Backfiring and Running Poorly - White Smoke - Running Rich
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- Опубліковано 29 кві 2020
- Picked up a generator with an engine problem. In this video I fix that issue and well as a few others to get it in good running condition again.
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As usual a very interesting video. You are making it easy to understand the workings of Gensets. As a long term mechanic, Generators have always eluded me, but watching how you tackle each job is helping me wanting to try this out and have a go. Thanks. I'm not understanding how people unlike any of your videos...
I have the same EXACT model, love it.
When you adjust the valves you have to go PAST top dead center (piston about 1/4 of the way down the cylinder) and THEN adjust the intake valve. If you adjust the intake valve at TDC the compression release will be holding the intake valve open and it will be adjusted wrong: it’ll be too loose and the engine will be hard to pull (compression relief won’t crack open the intake valve during startup). You have to go just past TDC when adjusting so the compression release nub on the cam gear slips past the intake lifter and lets go of the intake valve.
Not a 1\4 of way past top dead center on compression stroke, 1/4 of an inch. I see online people confuse this often.
@Edward Carnajz if you’re watching the exhaust valve stem as you slowly rotate the engine through the compression stroke you will see the exhaust rocker make a very slight bump as it pushes the exhaust valve open slightly. Continue slowly rotating the engine and you’ll see it suddenly close up again, that’s the point when you can adjust the valve clearance. A better way to do it IMO is to adjust the exhaust valve when the intake valve is wide open and adjust the intake valve when the exhaust valve is wide open, then there is no chance of the cam being in the wrong position.
Dang thats what my mercedes s500 does, i need to change my EGR valve.. finally someone thats post an engine backfiring. They usually only post misfires
Hi Sir. I want to thank you for the blessing that this particular video is. I’ve searched and searched! This video is the exact one I needed. I need to adjust my governor and possibly check valves so that engine will run a bit faster under load. My idle speed is good but the governor speed dropped a hair too low. I have a 2006 Generac (by Briggs & Stratton) and it’s basically the same genny with no AVR, same engine & powerhead specs. Got it for $75 and restored it.
Nice job. I really like these Storm Responders. Good quality and there’s a lot of them out there. You are correct, they have a decompression lobe, making them one of the easiest to pull. I’m picking one up tomorrow for $50!
Be careful using portable generators ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html just hoping everyone stays safe
Very nice and tidy. Thank-you!
another awesome video, james learning a lot from you and i do want to thank you ..
We had another hurricane here in Texas last week and no power for few days, the older couple next door have no power so the old man knocked on my door and asking if i can help them, they have an old generator sitting on their garage for 6 years and was not running I followed ur step by step diagnostic and clean the carb and clean the tank and change the filter and it did RUN. For 3 days without power the generator saved the food from the freezer and run small window unit AC and provide them light ( Both of them are on their 80’s ). Thank you very much for all of your videos ..You are an amazing man. BTW I did everything for FREE running it and putting fuel
That was really nice of you to help out. Glad you were able to get it going for them.
@@jcondon1 hmm.... That muffler is too little for that generator, I've seen generators producing only 82 decibels and these Chinese generators were fitted with a much bigger muffler
Thank you very helpful. I work on all sorts of equipment and I am always getting into unknown areas where I have to search for information. It's hard to find information on alot of the older machines and service centers don't like to give it up. They want you to leave it to them to fix. I understand they just want to make a living.
Be careful using portable generators especially keep children safe ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html just hoping everyone does well using generators
The spark plug is the canary in the coal mine. Reading a plug helps determine which direction for repairs and health of engine. Only saw substantial water in gas on '93 Craftsman riding mower from customers this year. Love your videos. Picked up a 3.5 KW Champion generator from customer for cheap and got it running good. It's mine in case I ever need it.
I wish there was someone local in my area to be picking up used generators that I would have confidence in their reliability like I would from your equipment!
Great analysis. The first thing that came to me when it back fired was the valve adjustment. Sure enough that helped ya. Good luck and nice job.
Thanks
I'm watching your vids now and I'm learning a lot considering I'm 62 and I fixed my first mower at 5 yrs old.but generators are a different dog,but I'm learning there's good money on generators
I am approaching 50 and did not start doing anything engine related until a couple years ago. Never too late to learn.
What did you do puke see baby food on it
Nice work. BOTH of you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
As always thank you I have a predator generator I just replaced the brushes on but sat for a year that backfires through the carb had not a lot of gas barley any but I'll be draining the fuel bowl and tank add some fuel additive and go from there
Great video.
Great job
Great work man
Awesome job 🙌😊👍🍀👌
Thanks for that. .
Good catch on the valve being too tight. I probably wouldn't have caught that. Cheers!
Thanks 👍
When the muffler backfired, the FIRST thing I suspected, was tight valve clearances. They will tend to tighten up during the break-in period of a new engine. Once they've been adjusted a time or two, they will run a long time, with no further adjustment. I've always had the exhaust valve be the one that needs the most attention, once the engine has broken in.(still, not very often) Water in the gas tank can occur due to condensation. Gasoline has a lower evaporation temperature than water, therefore, it's possible for the gas to be below dew point, allowing it to condense water, even if the gas cap never gets wet! That's something to be aware of, for any small engine that's been stored outside.
This would be the case for a small amount of water. Like 1/4 cup or less. This amount of water was rain ingress. This will not only ruin the function of the engine running but with alcohol in the gas, (which is just a farmer subsidy not a help to our country in any way since more fuel is used to make this fuel than is produced from ethanol in the gas), will ruin the carburetor also.
@@PaulHigginbothamSr If you have to run ethanol fuel, the trick is to never shut it off by the ignition switch. Always shut it down, by turning off the fuel valve, and let the carburetor float bowl drain out.(generator unloaded, of course) After the engine stalls, put on the choke, and pull the cord again. It will try to start. That will help clear that watered down gas from the idle circuit as well as the main jet. I never leave fuel in the carburetor, especially a generator, where I don't know how long it will be before I need it again.
Everyone should be aware with generator safety ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html just hoping everyone stays safe
Hey Vincent! I have a same Briggs and Stratton engine on my snowblower. When i try to start it with the electric starter, it won't start but it does a sparkfire every 5 sec. Do you how can i fix it or what i need to check to fix it?
That's an external combustion engine 😀👐
Like I have said many times before, it's mainly a carb. issue, when engine runs poorly. Can't be timing as it's factory set, and can't be changed. 90% of all small engine issues are carburetor fuel/air issues, more so than electrical. Check for bad fuel, or for water content, and clean the whole carb out, and reset, any, and all fuel mixture screws. That will fix the issue, and have it running properly again. I might add, I use an old (taped down), tin can, large enough to cover over the fuel cap. Keeps the squirrels away from chewing the fuel caps to ribbons, and rain from getting into tank, when left outdoors
Thanks, my generator.
That was the best backfire I've ever seen 😂
Fantastic videos👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
hi james nice simple little jobs , makes a good gene for someone, watch you a lot mate ,willing to bet , briggs are your favourites they always turn out well
They are simple and well designed. Just have to check the oil once in a while.
We need to get you a lift table to get you up off the ground and you will be more comfortable !!!
It’s going to hurt from bending over and it’s painful at 72
The repair manual for this unit calls for no load: 127.5-136.5 volts and 62-62.5HZ. I Dont see any spec for loaded but can do as you did and set for 60hz while loaded. Great video though! Manual shows adjusting speed by loosening the gov rod and moving it position wise. I’d much rather tweak the speed via the spring as you shown!
Am surprised the manual would say that about adjusting the speed. The tab is much safer. The only downside is, you bend it too much and it might break. Has not happen yet. Half load around 60 hertz is a check really of the engine health and governor function. Sometime at half load you may be at 61 hertz, in which case you can slow down the unloaded speed some. Generally do not like to exceed 62 hertz.
Some AVRs are behind the control panel. Or a type of capacitor that controls voltage too.
Now that I've switched to natural gas and propane I haven't used any gasoline,
Natural gas is on tap and propane can be stored for years without going bad.
Gasoline is great for every day use, it is the worst choice for long term sitting of any machine.
That much water in the gas was likely causing the backfiring. I've had that happen to me on an '86 Ranger with a leaky gas tank. I blew 3 mufflers off it before I figured out the problem. The tight valves didn't help either.
I leave my generator outside but i always keep it covered with a tarp or waterproof riding mower cover with a ratchet strap to keep it from blowing off
TDC on the compression stroke. Go just past on the combustion down stroke, just a tiny bit. Otherwise the relief feature when pull starting is negated and it gets too hard to pull which can hurt your hands etc and put extra stress on the pull system. Ive had my knuckles cracked couple times by a rope stopping mid pull and the handle swinging around not to mention my pull fingers being stretched. Lol..not fun
Great vid. Actually found myself looking at garage sales tomorrow for a possible generator purchase if I can find one that needs work...
I live in Arizona ! Nothing rusts here. sun is hard on plastics though !
Generator safety ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html be aware with the hazards
Same in West Texas
Check original carb for stuking float. If not turn in jet if adjustable.
I have installed many, many clone carbs, never had even 1 problem. Just got a clone in today for a Honda GX 160 Compressor engine. Cost me 9 dollars, and free shipping. I have no clue how they can produce for so cheap. A Honda replacement was almost 90 bucks, plus shipping. I can get a brand new Honda GX 160 for 329.00. Ive got them on weed eaters, z turn motors, compressors. Wish I would of found your channel earlier, about a year ago I could not get any output out of a generator a neighbor gave me. Now I know a little more about them, and learning something in ever video. If you wonder if anyone is learning from your time making these videos, they are. Remember alot of the things you do automatically, alot of us are just now learning. Oh that generator went into the dumpster, but I do use the metal frame as a nice little roll around tool tray. Bet i could if fixed it, oh well. Someday I wish you could use a white board and explain how power is generated, in a easy to understand way, as you usually do.
Thanks. I had a lot of luck with clone carbs and they are very little money to try. But have had several instances where I put a clone on and still not running right so I wasted countless hours chasing other things just to find out the clone was not performing.
Which one of you snagged one on Craigslist southwest of Boston last week!! 😅I missed it by 10 min. Whoever got it I’m sure it was a steal.
Generator safety is very important ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html
It’s got to the point I just check valve lash on anything that comes in, saves time in the long run plus a few more Pennie’s in labor
If you don't have one get a Spray Paint Can Handle Tool for Cans. They are less than $10.00 makes a big difference on how your paint jobs come out.
I have one somewhere.
Got one with metal fuel tank looks like that one just put a new carburetor on it and spark plug in it when running it starts to make popping sounds start’s on first pull
Get some eagle never dull wading at the parts store for cleaning,it cleans rust,grime etc
Luck you ad that carb, Nikis are EXPENSIVE.
I really enjoy your videos, see you used that hertz alot , where can I get one? Can do you have a video on how to use it properly.
How long can a generator like this typically run before it needs valve adjustment or other repair? Are the OHV Briggs engines like this any less reliable than the older flathead engines? I know the OHV ones are definitely easier to pull thanks to the compression release, but it also seems like more stuff that can break.
I would say they are less reliable only because the older Briggs engines has ball bearing and some had oil sensors. On the new ones like this, they cut corners. That said, if you keep the oil topped off then they will run very well for a long time.
Please remember, with a non voltage regulated generator, you want to check voltage and frequency at at least half load.
I set mine with at least half load also. He could of adjusted it a bit higher, he was at 119. something and 59.5 hertz. I would adjust hertz to 60. and as long as i don't exceed 124 on the volts, that's just fine.
The frequency is not as important as you might think. The utilities hold the frequency pretty tight. But it is really not necessary. Most household appliances convert the ac power to a dc power so frequency is not important. In a grid down application, 59 Hz is just fine. Your stove or clothes dryer doesn’t care!
I agree. Most things in the house can handle 50-60 hertz, 113 to 240 volts without issue.
0:39 is the fireball you are looking for.
Those clone carbs are about 50/50, but I haven't had any better luck with Nikki. I can get them to run sometimes, but they are super expensive when I can't. If I get something with a Nikki, I will just stick a clone in it or find a compatible alternative and call it a day unless I have a fully rebuilt Nikki on hand. The only way I can get them to run is to completely rebuild them. I have never been able to just clean one and get it to work properly. Most of the stuff I get hasn't run in years and is usually sitting out in the weather, so that could have something to do with it. I get lucky sometimes though. I got a compressor running that had been sitting for 22 years this weekend, and everything actually worked once I got it started and got the water out of the tank. I just did a little cleaning and lubing, and it fired right up and didn't even leak. They don't make them like they used to, and like you like to say, the price was right, lol.
Great video!!! My question is if the engine keep misfiring and you already check the valve clearance , clean carb and adjust governor? what can be?
Weak spark? I would replace the coil next or disconnect the low oil module if it has one.
Closed up filter?
0:39 jumpback
I wish my go kart did that
James, how interchangeable are the Briggs & Stratton oil sensors? I have an older Troy-Bilt 3550-watt (model 01924 rev1) and I'm pretty sure the oil sensor is bad. It'll runs for a 10 minutes then dies out. (I've since let it dangle and runs beautifully.) It looks like the (faded) part number on it is 698451 with, what I"m assuming, is a 1203 date code, but I can't find any replacement reference anywhere online for it. Any recommendations on an oil sensor for a B&S sensor on genny that old?
And thank you for the great content. My brain is being filled with small engine goodness.
I can’t find any information so I installed a Honda low pressure switch from EBay
It is working ok
Can you give me some guidance/advice? My generator doesn't run right but it does sound louder than usual. Like a higher pitch than normal. Any idea what it could be?
Did you see the orb at 706 near the red filter
Any tank that has either a fuel level gauge in the cap or separate one on the tank is trouble. Not if... but when. They are the first to deteriorate and become funnels for water. If I could post a pic of my dad's steel tank and carb. It's the first carb I could not resurrect. Ethanol fuel, and leaving it outside under the sprinkler for years until the water stopped it from running, then sitting in the same spot collecting even more water.
I agree. Tanks with a gauge and a rollover valve (tank vent to the airbox) are much more trouble when they get wet. Also the tend to leak gas when running and are dangerous if gone unmonitored.
Hey James, interesting video! I am relatively new to this stuff. I Remember you mentioned in one of your previous videos, 'permanent magnets'. What does this mean? Do all generators have this? Is a superior quality generator one with these magnets? Thanks so much.
Luke Harrison most generators that have an AVR have small magnets on the rotor which which get the system to power up. I have a video that covers that and other stuff in more detail. It is not published yet, but will share the link. Most made in the last 15 years have them. The only ones that I have seen that do not are the Briggs and Stratton ones that do not use an AVR.
See this video. At 10:53 I show two rotors, one with and one without magnets. The whole video covers a lot of concepts ua-cam.com/video/NFl8nWs3ib4/v-deo.html
Typically, PMA (Permanent Magnet Alternators) are used in "inverter" generators. Permanent magnet alternators are NOT regulated. The 3 phase output occurs at a high frequency, and is rectified into direct current by a 6 diode bridge rectifier, much like a car's alternator. The high voltage DC goes through an inverter output stage, where it's turned into a pure sine wave. The advantage is, that the output voltage and frequency stays constant, regardless of actual crankshaft speed. While it's possible for a conventional generator to have permanent magnets in the rotor, it has to have a field coil to compensate for changes in load. The engine MUST run at 3,000 RPM for 50 Hz, or, 3,600 RPM for 60 Hz.(2-pole) Any change in engine speed changes the frequency.(Cut those RPM in half, for 4-Pole) Permanent magnet alternators are very often 4 or 6 pole, and, at 3,600 RPM, would put out 120 or 180 Hz. Not useable directly.
Alright pal what is the volts/Ohms meter you have pal ?
Thanks
Ps thanks for all your video work really good shots and easy to see what your doing on all engines take care.
Thanks 🙏
It's called a kill a watt. Available on Amazon or at Harbor Freight.
Great video. Why did you use the choke to kill the engine instead of using the on/off switch?
Most likely I shut the fuel valve off and was running the carburetor dry. No bowl drain.
Thank you for the infmational video. I have the same generator and the last oil change, I smelled gas in the oil. That was the first time I smelled gas in the oil since the last 8 years I've had this generator. Original owner. I've cleaned the carb, but have not replaced anything on the carb. Any hint will help. Thanks in advance.
That can happen if the needle is not seating properly. Some gas can flood the engine when off and get past the rings into the oil. If you turn the fuel off when not using, that problem can be minimized. Otherwise you could replace the needle and clean the seat using a q-tip in a drill with a little carb spray on the q-tip
@@jcondon1 Got it. I've just ordered a new rubber seals and new needle for the carb. Unfortunately, my gas shutoff does not seem to work. The generator runs rough when the gas shutoff is fully OFF or fully ON. It only seems to run smooth when the gas shutoff is somewhere in between off and on. Did that out of the box, but I never really thought much about it. I usually run dry for storage, so it shouldn't matter much. Thanks again for the info.
0:39 there we have it.
Anyone know what the part # is for the clone version of the carb?
After you found the water I am assuming you could have put the same carb on with little problem. Also on that paint faded filter cover if you would have rubbed it with Armorall I have a feeling you could use both covers in time and looked good. I mean it is how it looks is how your product sells. I assume you use Craig's List or some other media. If you, (after the unit is sold put a nice tag on telling buyers what the problem was and how to prevent it). But that would be for me maybe not most people.
Water will usually keep it from running at all. In this case it was running, just rich. Not sure it would have run right after.
Got these engines in UK apart from carb wear thay last better than Honda do not burn oil
Be aware with the hazards on using generators ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html just hoping everyone stays safe especially children.
Where do you get your filters I have a Coleman 1850 Watt and a 5000 watt and don't know where to buy filters air filters
I get my Briggs filters from amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B074GVYS7W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Out of all your experience, what do you think is the best built generator?
Honda is the best. After that they all start looking similar. I like the Briggs storm responders (Branded also as craftsman, troybilt, etc), but they tend to run out of oil (no oil sensor on most). Otherwise would stick to a name brand engine like Honda, Subaru, Briggs and Stratton. The Chinese engines work pretty well, but parts availability can be an issue. Ryobi and Generac use Chinese engines on 8000 watt and below. The difference is that they will supply engine parts. With that said, all engines usually last is maintained. Just need to keep the fuel fresh, oil clean and drain the carb. The more common failure point is the generator head. Not sure if that is due to manufacturing or people overloading them. Either way many generator heads look like they come from the same factory in China. The Briggs Storm responder (without the AVR) stands out as different. And of coarse Honda's have very few power problems.
Hi James, What should a new Champion generator have for Voltage, and Hertz? What would be too low and too high ? Thank you for your time
Assuming that it is not an inverter generator, voltage should be between 113 and 127 volts. Generally you want around 120 to 125 volts. If you have an AVR the voltage should stay constant even at load. No AVR, voltage will drop as the load increases and voltage might be as high as 132 volts under no load. Hertz under no electrical load should be between 61-62 hertz. At half the rated load the hertz ideally should stay above 59 (58 worst case).
@@jcondon1 Thank you for replying. It is not an inverter type
@@jcondon1 Where did you find these numbers for Hertz and volts, please? Thanks!
I have watched probably 50 of your videos and commend you on your knowledge. I do cringe when watching you tighten carb parts, seems like you always give it an extra oomf when its tight.
On one video you stated you didn’t want to bring out all of the heaters to retest the output. I know your busy but you should build a small cart with the heaters (maybe even have them wired thru switches so you could turn them on individually with each switch) , your fuel tank on an IV pole and maybe even a battery with leads or jumpers. That would be very convenient and time saving in the long run.
Also I am a big supporter of MT-10 (actually all Muscle Products) for preventing wear in engines and transmissions and such. I. Know of someone that treated their lower unit on a boat, hit a rock and cracked a hole in the case (and didn’t know it) and ran it around the lake with no oil or internal damage afterward. Good stuff. I put that s@#& in everything.
James, where is your 'go-to' place for quality carbs? I'm finding the Amazon sourced carbs are mostly Chinese garbage that is underjetted and when load is applied to the gen, it slows the engine.
really should be test loading on the higher side , in this case near 5kw not half is load
Wish I could let you work on mine I have an old one was starting but doesn’t want to start now I changed the spark plug out but that didn’t do anything I didn’t know about the gas I had let it sit in there over months mines is a 5250 watts 6500 surge watts generator
The problem is it’s a Briggs & Stratton. The only generator I’d own is a Honda.....
When Tecumseh was still around, people said: "The problem is it´s a Tecumseh. The only generator I´d own is a Briggs & Stratton..."
@NoNoNoNii Nothing, just saying...
I have one all it does is backfire I put a new crub do you have any suggestions?
Fuel stabilizer doesn't work at all, it it does any very little affect, just keep them out of rain and use non ethanol fuel. Drain gas when put into storage
Hey James, interesting video. Have you ever tried one of those fuel saver generators?
I have not
@@jcondon1 ok. I guess that their sort of like the eco mode on some vehicles. the basis of the idea is that the generator will sit at a low rpm idle state, and then, it'll rev up in accordance to demand, and then, when the demand isn't there anymore, it'll rev back down to it's idle speed until the demand is there again. I know because my grandfather's friend on my dad's side needed to have a generator for his (the friend's) refrigerator to keep things cold while his power was out, unfortunately, some things spoiled or went bad. It's basically like a car engine, car engine revs up when you step on the fuel pedal, or accelerator, and will go back to a predetermined idle speed when you take your foot off the pedal, similar idea, different perspective.
it looks like someone did the lash, then tightened up the adjuster locking nut...........thereby eliminating the lash without double checking the final 'tightened' lash.
I have the big wheel version of this. I was thinking that there is a reason that the engine cooling fan blows the warm air into the bottom of the air cleaner. Is that to heat the carburetor or to just blow air in?
Good question, not sure. Tecumseh, puts the fuel line running right next to the cylinder to heat it. In cold weather the carburetor could ice up. Would make sense to run a little heat in that area. Of course if you live in Arizona, might cause other issue.
@@jcondon1 I have a very similar model of this generator. The manual says you can remove that plastic box below the carb in very hot weather. It's a heater duct for cold weather.
Where can I find the torque values? I took the carb off my Briggs Vanguard 16hp (V twin) to have the carb cleaned. I ended up taking off the intake manifold. But now I can't find the torque values. Suggestions please. Thank you!
Usually 60-70 in/lbs will do
Hey James, new subscriber here. I have the same generator. What socket are you using to remove the carburetor studs? Thank you.
It is a torx socket. I believe it is an E5 or E6. Here is the set I use www.amazon.com/dp/B000I45Y8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apip_8EBqtxq2NK6HK
Vise grips...
It is either ignition timing/Sparkplug, carpureator mixture... or a wrong thumbnail....
You never say but I assume you sell them after your repairs. Cheers
I do. Been looking for one more powerful to keep. I use a Honda EU5500 for backup, but need a little more power. Have not found one yet worthy.
Good morning James i hope you can help me with this project, I can't remember you posting video of this condition that I have right now, My generator is a 5500 watts champion and doesn't start and what it does is when you pull the cord it backfires through the carb, a little flames shuts out. What do you think it is?
Most likely the intake valve is not sealing properly. Might have to be lapped. Otherwise you could have a timing issue, but that is rare on the generator.
Good morning James Thank you very much for your recommendation I will check the valves and timing, thanks again
That generator has a built-in after burner.
I got the same exact one but it doesn’t say storm responder lol
Generator safety ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html be careful please. Just hoping everyone stays safe. Especially keep children safe
… typical Briggs engine, but luckily I know the fix, about 3 gallons of paraffin and a match 😂
sir James Condon i've been new to infos regarding Generators but i've learn a lot so far watching your videos! Keep safe sir hope to add you on facebook if you have because i'd like to ask questions regarding my Generator.. More power to your channel & God Bless you & your family...
Ck. The carb. Running rich.the float needed adj.
Pete Martus true, but they are plastic floats and not adjustable. The needle and float could be replaced, but have done that before without success. I am working on another one today with a plastic float that is running lean. I am tempted to take a heat gun to it to bend the tab, but not sure if that will work.
@@jcondon1 it will probably snap or melt before you can bend it :(
I have a predator 8750 it starts and runs like it has a load pulling. I changed carberator and Ave still same problem. Where do I go from here ?
Be careful using portable generators especially keep children safe most of the time ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html here’s a video about keeping family safe while using generators. It’s very important. Thank you stay safe
@Bill Wilkins If your generator is lugging down with a load at start up it could possible be grounding out or shorting out somewhere. Wires touching/grounding or maybe a diode shorted.
Fresh gas and new spark plug Is what i would do before i go any farther.
hey bud i have a ea190v subaru electric start model and ive cleaned the carb many times but it runs rough and shuts off if i switch it to run or warm. Also itll turn off when i depress the hand wand. ive cleaned the unloader valve looks like new. It also backfires now i can see fire come out of exhaust! itll backfire then die no instantly what do u think?
Would start with the ignition system by replacing the spark plug and checking the plug gap. The engine sparks twice. Once on the compression stroke and once on the exhaust stroke. If not sparking under compression then you can get a backfire from the exhaust (and the intake). Unfortunately that issue can be caused by a bunch of problems. 1) weak spark 2) running lean 3) valve clearance being tight or valves not seating well 4) timing and more.
@@jcondon1 ok will try that thanks!
@@jcondon1 well i tested the spark plug with a meter its good and gap is good. I got it to run on choke if i switch to warm itll die instantly.Also seems like its building up to much pressure. Hard to press the trigger and i get a strong kick
What is that meter you used in this video?
Kill A Watt meter
The fuel filter is backwards
Did not realize the screen ones were directional. Thanks.
Red ones the bigger side towards the tank
Good sir. I ask for your intelligence once again. What would be the part numbers for these pushrods? I can't seem to find an engine serial number for my Storm Responder 5500/6250
I can give you number that are most likely correct but to be sure you should look on the left side of the valve cover. Etched on the cover should be the model info. Try part number 592673
@@jcondon1 alright. I took measurements of the pushrods I just pulled out and they seemed to match up to the order. 7 inches long and around 0.21 diameter so hopefully they'll be correct
i have one just like that working on for a customer and it pops a lot put in two different carbs 3 different plugs adjusted valves still does it baffling me anything else no backfiring just pops from cold to hot the hotter the more it does it any ideas?
Where they OEM carbs? Would test the ignition coil with a spark tester and see if the spark can jump a 6mm gap. Otherwise would check the flywheel key and the spark arrestor.
Both aftermarket carbs one Nikki one walbro checked spark with tester and was strong light
running rich and valve is sticking get some seafoam to clean upper end and like to aee why iys not fitting right
Hi there, nice video. I have the same generator that my brother just gave me because it went BANG during our storm power outage here in Ct. I pull the cord and nothing turns. My guess is the rod broke. Low Oil I figure. No holes in the engine. It had very low hours. In your opinion , would it be worth repairing ? Thanks.
Funny you should ask that. I just picked one up in CT a could days ago with the same issue. I just repowered it with an engine I had. The blown engine did not have a hole in the case so I took it apart last night to inspect everything. The Piston and rod are trash, cylinder and crank were salvageable but need work. So I ordered the parts to rebuild. $150 for a new piston, rings, connecting rod and gasket. It should come back. It is worth it? If you can do it yourself then yes, otherwise you can get a used one for $300-$400 that still works. Where in CT are you located? Would be interested in your generator for parts or potentially I could put this engine in it once I have it rebuilt.
@@jcondon1 Thanks for the reply. 150 does not sound all that bad for parts. I live in Northeast corner of the state on RI line. I really need a backup generator now seeing I gave mine to my brother. Would you please provide me with the supply company info you purchase your parts from. I will also need to purchase a repair manual/spec to do the repairs. I do tinker some but these B&S have always given me a hard time. Regards. 67 and retired.
sdwputnam I am near the south western corner of CT. You need to find your engine number, it is etched on the side of the valve cover. From their I went to ereplacementparts.com and found the engine diagrams and part numbers. I ended out sourcing the parts from eBay. And $150 was the bare minimum. To do it right I probably should of ordered new oil seals and a new head gasket. Definitely pull your engine apart first and make sure it is viable. You will also probably need to hone the cylinder, sand the crank journals and might need a few extra tools. I used muratic acid to clean the aluminum off first. I do not have and service manual source for this engine but there are specs for thing like the head torque, valve clearance etc. will send you a link to that. I am also editing the video together of the engine swap and also the engine rebuild. Only have the tear down at this point until I get the new parts. Will send you a link to them once I have the draft videos compiled.
@@jcondon1 Thank you James. Looking forward to your tear down and rebuild. Regards.
Surprised there is no spark arrestor on the muffler.
There is under the chrome shield.
Carb had no issues, was the water in the fuel
I think your right. I saved the carb. Was amazed it was running at all.