I'm so glad that I came across your video as you easily saved me around $1500! I had called and made an appointment to take my 2002 F150 in for an estimate on replacing my passenger-side manifold. I try to do all my own work on the truck because it isn't worth much (except to me!) so hate to spend more on repairs than what its worth. But this repair seemed too much for me as I thought the only option I had was to completely replace the manifold. So I watched and was amazed what these low-cost materials could do. So I ordered the furnace cement and wrap and then did the work, following your steps all the way. And now, it's just like new again! It just purrs like a kitten! I can't thank you enough for your help and really appreciate that you took the time to publish this video.
Thank You!!! I got a quote to replace the exhaust manifold on my 2000 Ford F150...... $1,590.00!!! I ordered the products you recommended (about $19.00, I got a larger amount of header wrap) and followed your instructions. My exhaust manifold had a hole in it the size of a quarter, I put two separate layers of cement and wrap on it. It is quite as a church mouse! You ARE the man!!!!
Im glad i could help man! Kep a few of those bucks in your pocket and pass it along to the next guy who needs a helpinig hand in exchange! makes the world a better place!
Hillbilly University the wrap you use is it the fiberglass one or a different kind I’m trying to get it from ebay but there’s a few I’m confused as to which one I should get
Thank you Johnny Vannz !!!!! God Bless you man and let all sorts of blessings come to you. The mechanic told us it would cost $900 bucks Canadian to fix the F150 I use in my new business. Told the wife we would have to take it off the road and shell out more cash for something new instead of sinking all that cash into an old 03. We sat down and pray to God to help us with this problem. Immediately after we did one search on Google for "Cheap exhaust manifold fix Ford f159" and up came your UA-cam Video. I immediately went to town on it and used woodstove caulking of the same brand and instead of tape I used the white rope gasket material used for woodstove doors. Let it dry overnight and then picked up the tape and the cement and applied that as well. Let it idle for 2 hours. It's now the quietest I've ever had it man. Thanks again Johnny for sharing your genius. God Bless you and your family.
(Hi stove cement has saved me several times in Canada. I used some header thermal wrap , I let it sit over a weekend and ran it only a few min to heat shut off for 2 hours ran it half hour shut off let it cool painted the entire section with hi heat black couple coats . Passed emissions inspection $$$$ . 2 years no leaks saved time and money
Dude! I do not know if you will see this comment, but you rock! I was fishing around for other info regarding removal of broken header bolts before I started on my car, (it is a 76 Vette, original engine, original cast iron manifold) I was expecting to snap a few, so I was preparing myself for the worst. Then I ran across your video, and holy sh*t did you save me a ton of swearing, busted knuckles, and the worry about screwing up the head with broken bolts stuck into it. I just finished this weekend, installed the factory heat shield, and you cannot even tell I did this fix. (The hole was a chunk that actually fell out and was behind the heat shield) I have been working on cars, motorcycles, houses, watches, computers, etc, and I would never have thought of this one. Thank you very much for sharing this procedure!
Appreciate ya kinfolk! This shit just saved me hundreds, ol boy at the exhaust place wanted 600-800 bones to fix my old F150! MFer wants more to fix my leaks than I paid for the whole truck! Thanks again bro!
I just used your remedy on my 93 Chevy 1500. I actually ordered me a new exhaust manifold. But came across your video and I wish I could send that manifold back! I had cracks in my manifold and Y-Pipe. I still wrapped it up like high school prom date! And like you said... Quiet as a kitten! Thanks man, that was priceless!!
Thanks Johnny, I'm gonna have to give this a try. I have a 2001 F150 5.4L that has a passenger side exhaust manifold gasket leak at the front of the manifold. Manifold is rusty like they all get on the Ford engines like this, but no holes yet. It's an older truck but has only 110K miles and like you I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on it, and I've been searching for something like this that could work. I thought of something like JB weld but knew it would blow right out, but the furnace cement and exhaust wrap with wire combo looks like the cheap fix I've been looking for.
My 1997 Ford Expedition has 350,078 miles on it. Good engines, not even a tap. $400.00 for a new manifold here in Jersey 2 years ago. Wish I’d seen this brother. Good advice.🍺😃
Thanks. Works great. I tried the stuff you buy at the auto parts store that is advertised for cracked headers and that failed instantly. The reviews on that stuff was 50/50. This furnace cement applies better, fills in the crack better, and holds better overall.
Follow the direction and damp the area before applying. I let the first coat fully dry, heat cure, then lightly scrub with a metal brush, compressor blew the area, damp the area, and then applied a 2nd coat. Repeat the process for any additional coats. I used a heat gun the help cure the initial air dry time before starting the car and letting the engine idle for the heat cure process. The initial dry time is so that all the water can evaporate before the heat cure. The heat cure will get the center parts of the furnace cement that couldn't air dry. It will bubble when heat curing, I just pushed the bubbles down with a tool. Try not to just poke the bubbles, but rather push them flat. It's okay that the bubbles pop or crack when pushing them down. They will flatten down and reseal. Apply another coat of furnace cement if you want to help seal the popped bubbles. I only had cracked cast iron headers, so I didn't use any patching material.
Using "just" the furnace cement, it holds better than the thermosteel/quicksteel but its still cracking off after a couple of days. The heat and vibrations wont let these pastes hold directly to the manifold. Im gonna try some metal mesh screen or header wrap fiber next like he did in this video. Tie that down with criss cross fence wire as well. The mesh should act like fibers in the same way fiberglass works. Tieing it down with the fence wire will hold everything in place and create more surface area for the furnance cement to hold on to. Ill report back after some time.
Man your one awesome dude thank you so much for taking the time to make this video iv tryed so many other products and things nothing worked for the past 2 weeks now. I did what you said and so far its holding up and working can't thank you enough I shopped around on how much to get it fixed was close to a thousand bucks to fix. Love the music
I bought a beater F150 for a $100. It cost me $400 into it to get it up and running but it's VERY loud when I step on the gas. My buddies suggested it was probably the exhaust manifold because it's such a common issue. I found this video and I'm super happy because I really don't want to put anymore money into it. This is fantastic! Thank you! Your Wagon Wheel cover is awesome too btw.
huge difference....I think you did the right thing in this case. I've seen these type of repairs last the 100,000 mile mark. Best of luck with yours...
Johnny thanks for the video it gave me good info and directions on how I fixed my exhaust as described below: I fixed my 1997 Mercury Mountaineer passenger side exhaust manifold and I hope that this info might help someone else. I found exactly where the leak was by using a shop vacuum and blowing air into the exhaust pipe. I could easily hear air rushing from the exhaust manifold under the “heat shield”. After looking at the manifold, it seemed difficult to impossible to get the manifold off the car with the A/C clearance. There were long studs sticking out the exhaust manifold and I didn’t want to try taking the studs/bolts out, because with my luck they would break. Even if I got the manifold unbolted, it seems that quite a bit of the front of the motor would need to come off to get the manifold off car. Because of the cost, effort, and trouble to replace the manifold I decided to jerry-rig this project. LOL (Nothing against Jerry) I would have preferred to have replaced the manifold if seemed feasible and cost effective. The heat shield was then cut off using a die grinder with cut-off wheel to cut the stainless ties. The pipe was completely broken in half at a weld, so I filled the gap with furnace cement. Once the cement was setup using a hair dryer and later I blew air into the exhaust pipe and there was no air rushing out the manifold, so I knew that the gap in the pipe was filled and was ready for the next step. Next after cement in gap was setup I tightly wrapped the gap filled area in “stucco lath screen” that was flattened a little in the middle and completely flattened on the ends. The screen was about 1/2" wide and held it in place with a single plastic wire tie in the middle. I applied furnace cement to both ends covering the screen, but not the wire tie and moved the wire tie a few times to make sure cement wasn't stuck to it. After the cement on the ends were setup I took off wire tie and applied cement in the middle covering the screen and smoothed it to the ends. I used a small piece of a “Bondo Spreader” to apply the furnace cement. By having the screen overlapping the gap in the broken pipe, this should help prevent cracking in the future. The next day (2nd day) I lightly sanded the cemented area flat/round to get ready for next layer. I completely flattened about a 1 ½” piece of stucco lath screen and wrapped it around pipe and held it with two wire ties. The screen went as far left as possible (past the first layer of screen) since the cracked pipe was next to a raised area where the pipe had been originally welded to an adjacent cylinder manifold pipe. I was trying build up the area to the right of the raised area so that the repaired area would all be at the same level for later hose clamps. The screen in both cases wraps around pipe 1x, don’t wrap screen over itself. I also rotated joints so they are not in same place. Next I applied cement as described above and later took off the two wire ties and filled over entire screen going past ends and previous application of cement. I used a hair dryer to speed up the drying process in between cement applications. Once dry (3rd day) the cemented area high spots were lightly sanded to smooth out repaired area. I wrapped the exhaust manifold pipes in “Header Wrap”, starting to the left of the repair and going to the right (towards front of car). Stainless ties were used hold the ends of header wrap and I placed three stainless hose clamps over the repaired area and the header wrap. I placed the hose clamps as close together as possible directly over repaired area to hold the repair/cement/screen in place. There are videos on UA-cam to show you how to wrap header wrap. I couldn’t put the original heat shield back on over the repair, so the wrap helps hold everything together and keeps the heat down, especially since it is by the A/C. I didn’t think that the exhaust repair would look that good the repair actually looks pretty professional and for about $34.00. The average person wouldn’t even know that it was repaired. It has been about a month and no exhaust leaks! This repair was done on a round steel pipe, not sure if exact same technique could be used on a cast iron exhaust manifold?
DAMM IT!!!!!! I wish I would of seen this 2 months ago. I had hole in same spot the size of a golf ball. I tried everything the auto part store had and nothing lasted so I spent 6 hours putting in one from the junkyard. Cutting out the ol one, welding nuts to the broken studs and even drill and tap one. Great Video!!
THAT'S great information I have a 97 f150 that I am going to do. I bought the truck in 97 for 34000 dollars. Still have it. This has been a problem for many years. THANKS
wish saw this vid, several month's ago, , finally did My 2003 F150, 4.6 last week, , took two day's, lot's more cussing than u did, n a couple of cut's on my head !! but your solution, woulda saved me a lot of peace ,, it was pissing me off, louder n louder, the good aluminum thick gasket on Amazon was $18.00 and passenger Manifold $41.00 , local all wanted $71.00 and a crappy gasket.
Thanks Johnny! Doing a 2007 Ford F150 next weekend. JB Weld Bond and Thermosteel were both candidates for the job however reviews showed poor performance. You're stove cement paired with the wrap is a fantastic repair. Thanks man. I owe ya.
Hope it went well and I hope you've subscribed and hit the bell for notifications! We have a cool web series coming up soon and some awesome giveaways!
Who would of thought, I have a 95 f-150 5.0 and it has an exhaust leak and tell you the truth I was dreading fixing it but you have inspired me to see what I can do Thanks
Was gonna get some cheap eBay headers for my 98 navigator...cancel that order, I'll try this first. Passenger side manifolds for the 2v SUCK. Your are thee MAN for posting this video. Thanks!
Good vid, someone saw this vid and tried this to the truck i purchased...lol Sooooo at this point im just going to by an exaust because mine is literally ready to fall off it has a crack in it thats pretty bad...HOLD UP! heck no, im Not giving up that easy, im buying the wrap and the furnance cement and im givin it another go!....lol its my turn to try this out! Thx for sharing guy you won me over!
They may have tried the JB Weld version, which doesn't work for shit! I appreciate you watching and suggest you give it a try if you need to. I fixed one where the manifold was completely broken all the way around. The key to that fix was really taking my time and remembering that the cement heals best at 1/8 of an inch so I soaked the hell out of the wrap and started with that and then did a thin layer of cement, let that cure, then another thin layer, let that cure, etc... and still had stuff left over. Another good option to try is before using the wrap (I have done this with great success) is to lightly coat the area around your manifold cracks, then make a patch from COPPER FLASHING (roofing section of hardware store) and then cover that patch a couple times with the cement, allowing it to cure in between each layer. You can also then use the wrap method over top of that. Be sure to make the copper patch as large as you can and use the cement as the adhesive to attach it. Coppoer melts at about 1950 degrees F... and exhaust manifolds reach about 1200F max... That's why you see a lot of copper manifold gaskets. works great!
@@SouthernPinesNetwork materials are on the way, i hopefully will receive them by this Friday. I think they just did a half fast job, the motorcycle wrap is still visible. In either case im following ur instructions/example. This is my beeter/work truck i need it to produce $$$ without me investing a ton into it. Dud im so appreciate for vids like urs!
Tried this on a 2011 Equinox and so far has worked. The cheap metal used to make the exhaust manifold is notorious for cracking. I sanded and cleaned the area around the crack. I put on a thin layer of cement on the manifold and cut a 2" wide piece of fiber glass and coated both sides of it with cement. I thin wrapped the fiber glass around the crack while smoothing it out and working in the cement with a putty knife. I let it sit for about three hours and did a slow warm up for about 5min and shut off the engine. Two hours later I ran the engine for 30min shutting down and cool overnight. Took it for a test drive the next morning and no leak. No we will see how long it will last.
Thanks mate. Great instructions that I can easily follow. Got them in one too, coz you talk reeaal slow, I didn't have to pause the video or replay it half a dozen times. Consider me subscribed :)
Great video and great advice. I had the same issue with my 2002 F150. I finally got around to trying this yesterday. Worked like a charm. Engine sounds great now. Thank you!
Glad to help out my friend! If you end up with fords a lot, you might want to watch this video and pass it around... it'll show you how to bypass shift solenoid issues until you can fix them... when you thing your transmission is slipping but you can trick your computer into working for ya! ua-cam.com/video/NuB4Nl4BKkg/v-deo.html
excellent video! thanks. but I'm wondering about that furnace cement... does it cure rigid or is it flexible..for the constant vibration ? if not, is there some other hi-temp product that is? either way, thanks for the idea..i'm gonna get under the car now
Johnny, thank you so much for this video. My buddy changed my plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor button, on my 93 Ranger and of course, it now runs worse. He thinks it's a manifold leak. All the plugs were gaped correctly and wires properly set on every point; both on the engine and on the distributor. Personally, I do not understand a vehicle running WORSE after the plugs, wires, and other things were changed.
Yeah, a manifold leak just doesn't pop up after a tune up. I would recheck everything. making sure the cap is seated properly, the wires arent crossed, etc. Also remember that new parts can be faulty. If it's running worse directly after a tune up, human error is to blame; no doubt in my mind! Can't believe Im giving mechanic advice to "salt testes" - what has come of my life!? LMAO
Thank YOU! You'd be one of a select few that'd wanna listen to me run my trap all day! LMAO... some do listen to me sing though. Maybe try on an acoustic rock version of Rihanna's stay I did? Thanks ;-) ua-cam.com/video/w-il91JmgN0/v-deo.html
Ayyyy man...thanks for the vid brother. You’ve given me confidence to get this shit done tomorrow. Imma hit my exhaust coupler with flex tape after I fill it with high temp RTV gasket maker. Might use a c-clamp to hold this jawn in place as it cures. Doin it hillbilly up here in Maine too Bruvnah!!!!!
Great video. Your solution is genius. I'm about to do this on my daughter's Camry (college A to B vehicle). I only paid $350 for it and it's a good runner. However, it sounds like a short track/derby car.
I have a honda civic 2004 that i just got. I took it for safety to be done and I was told my exhaust manifold is cracked and needs to be replaced for about 1200 dollars. With this video I am happy I could find someone else have a quick fix done.
Damn dude, I was at wits end thinking about having to replace that rusty POS in my 2000 F-150. I have a couple of decent sized holes and it's loud as hell now. I'm gonna try this out today! This truck is long paid off & I sure as hell don't want to spend a grand or more for this job! Thanks!
Hey Brother, just off the video you have a subscriber my 04 crown vic making noise I have to seal it. Really appreciate you JV, New Jersey rocking with you 💯💯👊👊
You da man bro. Question...will that cause white smoke from the tailpipe? I'm having that issue now. I have the same issue in the same location as you did. I'm wondering if I did what you did, will it stop the smoking from the tailpipe 🤔 Either way...good shit bro.
Interesting video, never seen furnace cement used. My 4.6 sounds like valve tapping under load, and turns out it must be an exhaust leak. idles quiet so its not the valves tapping,just gotta fix the hole sometime once i find it, going to use the smoke test
VOOODOOO i have the same exact sound with my 3.0 ranger no sound at idle, dad thought it was valves under load, but i seafoamed it once and saw smoke coming from the manifold so i know its a leak
Thanks for the knowledge Johnny! I attempted this fix this past weekend on my 2000 expedition. It worked great. I've noticed after several days the sound has returned and I can see small cracks in the cement above the wrap. I'm thinking I might not have added enough coats. Any suggestions? Thanks again brother!
It happens to the best of us... I'll assume you did it as I did?? soaked the wrap, the gooped the cement on it and all or??? even if so, I have had it happen when I do it and i've done it lots of times... Sometimes it happens if I put it on too thick, sometimes maybe not enough or sometimes i did nt let it get hot long enough when I cured it (a guess) ... its one of those things I have always been okay with just adding a bit more cause I always have a lot left over... i'd take and wet what you have on there now... and then add another good layer, the direction I think say to keep it under 1/8th inch thick... I have found recently the longer I idle it after doing it, the better it holds... but I have had one that held for 6 months and then heavy constant throttle through the mountains of tennessee pulling a trailer blew some apart...lol... again, I just add some more and im good again. Hope that helps!
And that cover though! That is the realest reason I finished watching the whole video and then proceded to read the entire comments section... It just hypnotized and shit. lol. Can I download that on iTunes yet or something?
I will check that out. Thanks a lot! We need people like you to keep us safe from this mainstream/commercial music that just hurts our ears and pollutes the world with a bunch of repeating and non-sense gibberish....
I have a 1977 Cadillac the exuast manifold took a beating and now there are two 1" long 1/4" wide holes hoping I can get this idea to work on my manifold!
Felicia Phillips who says you can't weld on cast iron? Use a cast iron welding rod. From my experience when welding cast iron is the cast iron will generally break again, near the weld later in life. The trick i've learnt is to take a torch and heat the cast iron up over a larger area than where you will be welding. I have also had just as much luck welding cast with stainless mig wire.
you rock! for real. we tried fixing with blue steel. were riding down the road got yanked cuz it was so loud and the shit eaters took our little car. I'm in need if another "mechanics special". I'm sure I'll be in touch with ya for your awesome intelligent mixture info. I could set in stone. thx.
As always, cheap repairs are just that and will usually prove to be temporary, but in a pinch and without being rich, they're worthwhile and satisfying. I've repaired a rusted-out hole in a resonator center seam with exhaust cement from the auto parts store (it's furnace cement but sold in smaller quantity and thus cheaper) and scrap steel window screen. The repair was a success and hugely satisfying, but the repair lasted about 10-11 months before the resonator rusted out to the point of needing replacement. But I believe that such a repair would last much longer if it's in a location that allows the entire part to be wrapped. I've heard of using "Miracle Paint" with fiberglass cloth, but that paint is terribly expensive (about $35 a PINT) and the paint has properties about it that make it hard to work with e.g. it's very thick and sets quickly due to its solvents which makes it difficult to hold a "wet edge", and it's hateful to get on you skin and you DEFINITELY need to use rubber gloves. It also bonds and cures so hard that the rim of the paint can and lid need to be perfectly clean before sealing, otherwise the the lid will never be able to be removed again and the remaining product will be wasted. Miracle Paint supposedly seals rust so well that it repairs rust permanently, but it also has a caveat in that the paint has NO UV resistance and needs to be topcoated to protect it from direct sunlight. But I believe that Miracle Paint and fiberglass would definitely work better for an exhaust repair involving the body of a muffler or catalytic converter. Thank you.
I'm so glad that I came across your video as you easily saved me around $1500! I had called and made an appointment to take my 2002 F150 in for an estimate on replacing my passenger-side manifold. I try to do all my own work on the truck because it isn't worth much (except to me!) so hate to spend more on repairs than what its worth. But this repair seemed too much for me as I thought the only option I had was to completely replace the manifold. So I watched and was amazed what these low-cost materials could do. So I ordered the furnace cement and wrap and then did the work, following your steps all the way. And now, it's just like new again! It just purrs like a kitten! I can't thank you enough for your help and really appreciate that you took the time to publish this video.
Thank You!!! I got a quote to replace the exhaust manifold on my 2000 Ford F150...... $1,590.00!!! I ordered the products you recommended (about $19.00, I got a larger amount of header wrap) and followed your instructions. My exhaust manifold had a hole in it the size of a quarter, I put two separate layers of cement and wrap on it. It is quite as a church mouse! You ARE the man!!!!
Im glad i could help man! Kep a few of those bucks in your pocket and pass it along to the next guy who needs a helpinig hand in exchange! makes the world a better place!
Gary how is it holding up I have a penny size nick... but I’m worried it might catch fire...
Gary the wrap you got and the one in this video is it fiberglass or which one should I get I’m confused about that
Hillbilly University the wrap you use is it the fiberglass one or a different kind I’m trying to get it from ebay but there’s a few I’m confused as to which one I should get
Damn 2000 F150s....I have the same vehicle, same issue. Lol. Just got the stuff to fix it and found this video. I'll let yall know how it works out
Thank you Johnny Vannz !!!!! God Bless you man and let all sorts of blessings come to you. The mechanic told us it would cost $900 bucks Canadian to fix the F150 I use in my new business. Told the wife we would have to take it off the road and shell out more cash for something new instead of sinking all that cash into an old 03. We sat down and pray to God to help us with this problem. Immediately after we did one search on Google for "Cheap exhaust manifold fix Ford f159" and up came your UA-cam Video. I immediately went to town on it and used woodstove caulking of the same brand and instead of tape I used the white rope gasket material used for woodstove doors. Let it dry overnight and then picked up the tape and the cement and applied that as well. Let it idle for 2 hours. It's now the quietest I've ever had it man. Thanks again Johnny for sharing your genius. God Bless you and your family.
Thank you so much for the blessings and sharing! Knowing I helped someone is all that matters my friend!
(Hi stove cement has saved me several times in Canada. I used some header thermal wrap , I let it sit over a weekend and ran it only a few min to heat shut off for 2 hours ran it half hour shut off let it cool painted the entire section with hi heat black couple coats . Passed emissions inspection $$$$ . 2 years no leaks saved time and money
Past Ont safety? As I know they tend to get picky and say can't take a chance of exhaust leaking in the cabin.
Love this guy. Just did this to my manifold on my expedition on the exact same spot and I'm waiting for it to dry. Thank you so much
Riced out Whip how long did it last?
How long it worked
riced out did it work and did it last ?
You just saved me $1200+ on repairing the exhaust on my V10 Excursion, and for that I thank you!
How long did it last
I CAN’T WAIT to do this with our 07 Expedition. God bless you brother. You just saved this dude nearly a grand. You’re my favorite white guy!
Dude! I do not know if you will see this comment, but you rock! I was fishing around for other info regarding removal of broken header bolts before I started on my car, (it is a 76 Vette, original engine, original cast iron manifold) I was expecting to snap a few, so I was preparing myself for the worst. Then I ran across your video, and holy sh*t did you save me a ton of swearing, busted knuckles, and the worry about screwing up the head with broken bolts stuck into it. I just finished this weekend, installed the factory heat shield, and you cannot even tell I did this fix. (The hole was a chunk that actually fell out and was behind the heat shield) I have been working on cars, motorcycles, houses, watches, computers, etc, and I would never have thought of this one. Thank you very much for sharing this procedure!
I am really glad I could help man! So glad! thats what it is all about!
Appreciate ya kinfolk! This shit just saved me hundreds, ol boy at the exhaust place wanted 600-800 bones to fix my old F150! MFer wants more to fix my leaks than I paid for the whole truck! Thanks again bro!
keep that money in your pocket ! Glad I could help!
Fixed a huge Ford truck!! Saved over $3,000!!! Thanks dude!!!!! ;)
I just used your remedy on my 93 Chevy 1500. I actually ordered me a new exhaust manifold. But came across your video and I wish I could send that manifold back! I had cracks in my manifold and Y-Pipe. I still wrapped it up like high school prom date! And like you said... Quiet as a kitten! Thanks man, that was priceless!!
Glad I could help!
This video just saved me $900. I appreciate it brother!
If a guy doesn't talk like you I don't want their advice about cars. LOL
...with c-ment!
Lol
@davidhiggins:EGGGGGzactly!
Get so tired of stupid videos where no one says shit just plays the longest version of Mario fantasy land music loud as fuck too
Exactly!
Love the use of a blade of grass as a pointer - that's hillbilly and its perfect! Thanks for the video!
Thanks Johnny, I'm gonna have to give this a try. I have a 2001 F150 5.4L that has a passenger side exhaust manifold gasket leak at the front of the manifold. Manifold is rusty like they all get on the Ford engines like this, but no holes yet. It's an older truck but has only 110K miles and like you I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on it, and I've been searching for something like this that could work. I thought of something like JB weld but knew it would blow right out, but the furnace cement and exhaust wrap with wire combo looks like the cheap fix I've been looking for.
Johnny v just saved me 700 bucks on my 98 expy! This works. Thanks. Great vid!!!
I fixed me 1999 Ford Expedition's exhaust manifold like this and it worked using Furnace Cement + heat wrap! AMAZING!
Hector Robles how long did it last? ThNks
Works great Johnny!!! ..... just did my 97 F150 and saved big bucks!!! ... thanks to guys like you for posting these videos!!!!!
Thanks Bro!! Was going to buy an exhaust man, for my 83Ford F150, but youŕe video saved my low income butt! Will do like you showed~ Thanks!!!
Glad I could help! Be sure to subscribe if you would... It would mean a lot to me
My 1997 Ford Expedition has 350,078 miles on it. Good engines, not even a tap. $400.00 for a new manifold here in Jersey 2 years ago. Wish I’d seen this brother. Good advice.🍺😃
Do you think this would work if the leak is at the gasket where the manifold is butted up against the head?
Just used this on my 95 f150, and it worked like a charm. I owe it to you
Chicken wire, jb weld, and a pair of rubber gloves, hell yeah brother!
Thanks. Works great. I tried the stuff you buy at the auto parts store that is advertised for cracked headers and that failed instantly. The reviews on that stuff was 50/50. This furnace cement applies better, fills in the crack better, and holds better overall.
Follow the direction and damp the area before applying. I let the first coat fully dry, heat cure, then lightly scrub with a metal brush, compressor blew the area, damp the area, and then applied a 2nd coat. Repeat the process for any additional coats. I used a heat gun the help cure the initial air dry time before starting the car and letting the engine idle for the heat cure process. The initial dry time is so that all the water can evaporate before the heat cure. The heat cure will get the center parts of the furnace cement that couldn't air dry. It will bubble when heat curing, I just pushed the bubbles down with a tool. Try not to just poke the bubbles, but rather push them flat. It's okay that the bubbles pop or crack when pushing them down. They will flatten down and reseal. Apply another coat of furnace cement if you want to help seal the popped bubbles. I only had cracked cast iron headers, so I didn't use any patching material.
Using "just" the furnace cement, it holds better than the thermosteel/quicksteel but its still cracking off after a couple of days. The heat and vibrations wont let these pastes hold directly to the manifold. Im gonna try some metal mesh screen or header wrap fiber next like he did in this video. Tie that down with criss cross fence wire as well. The mesh should act like fibers in the same way fiberglass works. Tieing it down with the fence wire will hold everything in place and create more surface area for the furnance cement to hold on to. Ill report back after some time.
P Yang hows it working? thanks!
P Yang i would guess too much rattling around it wont work. if the parts are fastened well it sounds like a good deal. longevity?
It totally worked awesome!! My truck is definitely not worth the amount to “fix” this. This is the ticket! Thanks so much!!
Shit, man! You fixed it so well you can now hear the lifters! 14$ well spent.
Haha right!
Lol
To funny , I needed a chuckle today
Man your one awesome dude thank you so much for taking the time to make this video iv tryed so many other products and things nothing worked for the past 2 weeks now. I did what you said and so far its holding up and working can't thank you enough I shopped around on how much to get it fixed was close to a thousand bucks to fix. Love the music
Very cool video man! I have used the exhaust wrap before but never thought of adding the furnace cement. You are onto something here!
I bought a beater F150 for a $100. It cost me $400 into it to get it up and running but it's VERY loud when I step on the gas. My buddies suggested it was probably the exhaust manifold because it's such a common issue. I found this video and I'm super happy because I really don't want to put anymore money into it. This is fantastic! Thank you! Your Wagon Wheel cover is awesome too btw.
huge difference....I think you did the right thing in this case. I've seen these type of repairs last the 100,000 mile mark. Best of luck with yours...
Johnny thanks for the video it gave me good info and directions on how I fixed my exhaust as described below:
I fixed my 1997 Mercury Mountaineer passenger side exhaust manifold and I hope that this info might help someone else.
I found exactly where the leak was by using a shop vacuum and blowing air into the exhaust pipe. I could easily hear air rushing from the exhaust manifold under the “heat shield”. After looking at the manifold, it seemed difficult to impossible to get the
manifold off the car with the A/C clearance. There were long studs sticking out the exhaust manifold and I didn’t want to try taking the studs/bolts out, because with my luck they would break. Even if I got the manifold unbolted, it seems that quite a bit of the front of the motor would need to come off to get the manifold off car. Because of the cost, effort, and trouble to replace the manifold I decided to jerry-rig this project. LOL (Nothing against Jerry) I would have preferred to have replaced the manifold if seemed feasible and cost effective.
The heat shield was then cut off using a die grinder with cut-off wheel to cut the stainless ties. The pipe was completely broken in half at a weld, so I filled the gap with furnace cement. Once the cement was setup using a hair dryer and later I blew air into the exhaust pipe and there was no air rushing out the manifold, so I knew that the gap in the pipe was filled and was ready for the next step.
Next after cement in gap was setup I tightly wrapped the gap filled area in “stucco lath screen” that was flattened a little in the middle and completely flattened on the ends. The screen was about 1/2" wide and held it in place with a single plastic wire tie in the middle. I applied furnace cement to both ends covering the screen, but not the wire tie and moved the wire tie a few times to make sure cement wasn't stuck to it. After the cement on the ends were setup I took off wire tie and applied cement in the middle covering the screen and smoothed it to the ends. I used a small piece of a “Bondo Spreader” to apply the furnace cement. By having the screen overlapping the gap in the broken pipe, this should help prevent cracking in the future.
The next day (2nd day) I lightly sanded the cemented area flat/round to get ready for next layer. I completely flattened about a 1 ½” piece of stucco lath screen and wrapped it around pipe and held it with two wire ties. The screen went as far left as possible (past the first layer of screen) since the cracked pipe was next to a raised area where the pipe had been originally welded to an adjacent cylinder manifold pipe. I was trying build up the area to the right of the raised area so that the repaired area would all be at the same level for later hose clamps. The screen in both cases wraps around pipe 1x, don’t wrap screen over itself. I also rotated joints so they are not in same place. Next I applied cement as described above and later took off the two wire ties and filled over entire screen going past ends and previous application of cement. I used a hair dryer to speed up the drying process in between cement applications.
Once dry (3rd day) the cemented area high spots were lightly sanded to smooth out repaired area. I wrapped the exhaust manifold pipes in “Header Wrap”, starting to the left of the repair and going to the right (towards front of car). Stainless ties were used hold the ends of header wrap and I placed three stainless hose clamps over the repaired area and the header wrap. I placed the hose clamps as close together as possible directly over repaired area to hold the repair/cement/screen in place. There are videos on UA-cam to show you how to wrap header wrap. I couldn’t put the original heat shield back on over the
repair, so the wrap helps hold everything together and keeps the heat down, especially since it is by the A/C.
I didn’t think that the exhaust repair would look that good the repair actually looks pretty professional and for about $34.00. The average person wouldn’t even know that it was repaired. It has been about a month and no exhaust leaks!
This repair was done on a round steel pipe, not sure if exact same technique could be used on a cast iron exhaust manifold?
Finally a common sense ,intelegent, informative video
So glad you liked it my friend! I hope you've subscribed! We have a lot of cool content coming up!
DAMM IT!!!!!! I wish I would of seen this 2 months ago. I had hole in same spot the size of a golf ball. I tried everything the auto part store had and nothing lasted so I spent 6 hours putting in one from the junkyard. Cutting out the ol one, welding nuts to the broken studs and even drill and tap one. Great Video!!
thank you johnny I'm doing it tomorrow on my '97 f-150. you have that jesse james attitude.
you just got a new subscriber.
Fantastic! I'm going to try this on my '97 Dodge Dakota.
How'd it turn out?
how did it turn out?
Diggin the music man! Also going to be doin this on my 02 expedition, good shit
THAT'S great information I have a 97 f150 that I am going to do. I bought the truck in 97 for 34000 dollars. Still have it. This has been a problem for many years. THANKS
Awesome man.. that'll get r done. Those 5.4's and 4.6's are famous for it
Great video! Found myself reading the captions in my head with your accent. "Let'er Marrrnate". Love it. Cheers from Canada, eh?
Love my Canadian peeps! Thanks for commenting!
The World needs more people like you
or just less of those "other" guys! LMAO! thanks for hanging out!
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wish saw this vid, several month's ago, , finally did My 2003 F150, 4.6 last week, , took two day's, lot's more cussing than u did, n a couple of cut's on my head !! but your solution, woulda saved me a lot of peace ,, it was pissing me off, louder n louder, the good aluminum thick gasket on Amazon was $18.00 and passenger Manifold $41.00 , local all wanted $71.00 and a crappy gasket.
TheYohan831 ...congrats on making a permanent repair
Thanks Johnny! Doing a 2007 Ford F150 next weekend. JB Weld Bond and Thermosteel were both candidates for the job however reviews showed poor performance. You're stove cement paired with the wrap is a fantastic repair. Thanks man. I owe ya.
Hope it went well and I hope you've subscribed and hit the bell for notifications! We have a cool web series coming up soon and some awesome giveaways!
Who would of thought, I have a 95 f-150 5.0 and it has an exhaust leak and tell you the truth I was dreading fixing it but you have inspired me to see what I can do Thanks
Worked on my exhaust manifold.. 1999 ford
Was gonna get some cheap eBay headers for my 98 navigator...cancel that order, I'll try this first. Passenger side manifolds for the 2v SUCK. Your are thee MAN for posting this video. Thanks!
YES they do suck... this is the cheap way out man... Glad you found me. I appreciate the comment and compliments. Thanks!
make sure you watch the new one, in case you run into shift solenoid issues! ua-cam.com/video/NuB4Nl4BKkg/v-deo.html
Good vid, someone saw this vid and tried this to the truck i purchased...lol Sooooo at this point im just going to by an exaust because mine is literally ready to fall off it has a crack in it thats pretty bad...HOLD UP! heck no, im
Not giving up that easy, im buying the wrap and the furnance cement and im givin it another go!....lol its my turn to try this out! Thx for sharing guy you won me over!
They may have tried the JB Weld version, which doesn't work for shit! I appreciate you watching and suggest you give it a try if you need to. I fixed one where the manifold was completely broken all the way around. The key to that fix was really taking my time and remembering that the cement heals best at 1/8 of an inch so I soaked the hell out of the wrap and started with that and then did a thin layer of cement, let that cure, then another thin layer, let that cure, etc... and still had stuff left over. Another good option to try is before using the wrap (I have done this with great success) is to lightly coat the area around your manifold cracks, then make a patch from COPPER FLASHING (roofing section of hardware store) and then cover that patch a couple times with the cement, allowing it to cure in between each layer. You can also then use the wrap method over top of that. Be sure to make the copper patch as large as you can and use the cement as the adhesive to attach it. Coppoer melts at about 1950 degrees F... and exhaust manifolds reach about 1200F max... That's why you see a lot of copper manifold gaskets. works great!
@@SouthernPinesNetwork materials are on the way, i hopefully will receive them by this Friday. I think they just did a half fast job, the motorcycle wrap is still visible. In either case im following ur instructions/example. This is my beeter/work truck i need it to produce $$$ without me investing a ton into it. Dud im so appreciate for vids like urs!
Glad I could help. I completely understand my friend!
Tried this on a 2011 Equinox and so far has worked. The cheap metal used to make the exhaust manifold is notorious for cracking. I sanded and cleaned the area around the crack. I put on a thin layer of cement on the manifold and cut a 2" wide piece of fiber glass and coated both sides of it with cement. I thin wrapped the fiber glass around the crack while smoothing it out and working in the cement with a putty knife. I let it sit for about three hours and did a slow warm up for about 5min and shut off the engine. Two hours later I ran the engine for 30min shutting down and cool overnight. Took it for a test drive the next morning and no leak. No we will see how long it will last.
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Thanks mate. Great instructions that I can easily follow. Got them in one too, coz you talk reeaal slow, I didn't have to pause the video or replay it half a dozen times. Consider me subscribed :)
Great video and great advice. I had the same issue with my 2002 F150. I finally got around to trying this yesterday. Worked like a charm. Engine sounds great now. Thank you!
Glad to help out my friend! If you end up with fords a lot, you might want to watch this video and pass it around... it'll show you how to bypass shift solenoid issues until you can fix them... when you thing your transmission is slipping but you can trick your computer into working for ya! ua-cam.com/video/NuB4Nl4BKkg/v-deo.html
Johnny Vannz how long did it last for you? Thansk
Billy Reiter-Marolf did it last?
Damit Man U did that 👍👍👍👍👍 thank you so much now I know what is wrong and how to fix my 2005 Kia Sorento
excellent video! thanks. but I'm wondering about that furnace cement... does it cure rigid or is it flexible..for the constant vibration ? if not, is there some other hi-temp product that is? either way, thanks for the idea..i'm gonna get under the car now
You ever try it?
Johnny, thank you so much for this video. My buddy changed my plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor button, on my 93 Ranger and of course, it now runs worse. He thinks it's a manifold leak. All the plugs were gaped correctly and wires properly set on every point; both on the engine and on the distributor. Personally, I do not understand a vehicle running WORSE after the plugs, wires, and other things were changed.
Yeah, a manifold leak just doesn't pop up after a tune up. I would recheck everything. making sure the cap is seated properly, the wires arent crossed, etc. Also remember that new parts can be faulty. If it's running worse directly after a tune up, human error is to blame; no doubt in my mind!
Can't believe Im giving mechanic advice to "salt testes" - what has come of my life!? LMAO
Awesome accent. I could listen to dude talk ALL DAY!
Thank YOU! You'd be one of a select few that'd wanna listen to me run my trap all day! LMAO... some do listen to me sing though. Maybe try on an acoustic rock version of Rihanna's stay I did? Thanks ;-) ua-cam.com/video/w-il91JmgN0/v-deo.html
that was awesome, mine wasn't that loud but I'm going to do that since I'm broke all the time
Fixed my 98 same problem area. You saved me $600 bucks!!!! THANK YOU SO FCKN MUCH!!!!
Hey Man thanks for the advice!!! Just did it on my Nissan Titan and it worked great!!! keep the videos coming!
that fireplace ce-ment is amazing!
B W you spelled cement wrong, son. To be fair, at least you didn't spell it sea-ment. So good job, little buddy, you can almost spell in English.
Ayyyy man...thanks for the vid brother. You’ve given me confidence to get this shit done tomorrow. Imma hit my exhaust coupler with flex tape after I fill it with high temp RTV gasket maker. Might use a c-clamp to hold this jawn in place as it cures. Doin it hillbilly up here in Maine too Bruvnah!!!!!
Great video. Your solution is genius. I'm about to do this on my daughter's Camry (college A to B vehicle). I only paid $350 for it and it's a good runner. However, it sounds like a short track/derby car.
great! glad I could help!
MUCH RESPECT FOR THIS VIDEO, just SAVED ME a ton of headache. Thanks bro, keep the personality & always be true to you REAL RECOGNIZE REAL, MUCH LOVE.
dude! thank you so much. [thinking you're my hubbies lost cousin, innovative, creative, and money miser!!]
And with that, you have a subscription!
Glad to have you around!
This is the only video I've ever watched as yours but it made me subscribe and like it keep it going
you the man! Just did this on my 99 durango and it worked awesome!
great man! Glad I could help
I have a honda civic 2004 that i just got. I took it for safety to be done and I was told my exhaust manifold is cracked and needs to be replaced for about 1200 dollars. With this video I am happy I could find someone else have a quick fix done.
Brilliant dude! I'm going to give this a whirl next weekend probably
Damn dude, I was at wits end thinking about having to replace that rusty POS in my 2000 F-150. I have a couple of decent sized holes and it's loud as hell now. I'm gonna try this out today! This truck is long paid off & I sure as hell don't want to spend a grand or more for this job! Thanks!
Dude come back and tell us if furnace cement worked for you!
Doing my 2000 f150 in about 10 minutes how did it work for you?
Great job. The simplest fix are the best.
Thank you very much for the video save myself a couple of hundreds by doing this method . RB
Yeah man that shit actually worked I could not believe it my truck is now quiet as hell. Brother you just saved me a $1000. That was awesome 👍👏
Glad I could help!
"Fourteen bucks, I'll fix that motherfucker". Instant thumbs up.
Thanks man! I hope you've subscribed and hit the bell for notifications! We have a cool web series coming up soon and some awesome giveaways!
Hey Brother, just off the video you have a subscriber my 04 crown vic making noise I have to seal it. Really appreciate you JV, New Jersey rocking with you 💯💯👊👊
GREAT VIDEO! I tried JB WELD 3 times! Lasted a WEEK each time! Gonna try this... Looks like a winner! PEACE!
Picked up a 09 f150 67000 miles. Same problem. Its bullshit really but thanks for the tip. I'm gonna try this. I'll keep all you posted. Thanks man
Old school trick Love it man.
You da man bro. Question...will that cause white smoke from the tailpipe? I'm having that issue now. I have the same issue in the same location as you did. I'm wondering if I did what you did, will it stop the smoking from the tailpipe 🤔
Either way...good shit bro.
Thanks man, going to try this, will it work where the manifold connects to the pipe?
Another subscriber for you Sir. Absolutely simple genius ! !
Interesting video, never seen furnace cement used. My 4.6 sounds like valve tapping under load, and turns out it must be an exhaust leak. idles quiet so its not the valves tapping,just gotta fix the hole sometime once i find it, going to use the smoke test
VOOODOOO i have the same exact sound with my 3.0 ranger no sound at idle, dad thought it was valves under load, but i seafoamed it once and saw smoke coming from the manifold so i know its a leak
Great video. Just one question. After fixing the sound was your car able to accelerate faster?
ROFLMAO! Love it. I'm too weird to do that to my trucks but It is a very good tool to get by if you need too.
Awesome video! Laughed for the first time in days
About time someone with great info. Thx bro
Thank you for this great fix.
Worked like a charm! Thanks for the video Johnny!
Thanks for the knowledge Johnny! I attempted this fix this past weekend on my 2000 expedition. It worked great. I've noticed after several days the sound has returned and I can see small cracks in the cement above the wrap. I'm thinking I might not have added enough coats. Any suggestions? Thanks again brother!
It happens to the best of us... I'll assume you did it as I did?? soaked the wrap, the gooped the cement on it and all or??? even if so, I have had it happen when I do it and i've done it lots of times... Sometimes it happens if I put it on too thick, sometimes maybe not enough or sometimes i did nt let it get hot long enough when I cured it (a guess) ... its one of those things I have always been okay with just adding a bit more cause I always have a lot left over... i'd take and wet what you have on there now... and then add another good layer, the direction I think say to keep it under 1/8th inch thick... I have found recently the longer I idle it after doing it, the better it holds... but I have had one that held for 6 months and then heavy constant throttle through the mountains of tennessee pulling a trailer blew some apart...lol... again, I just add some more and im good again. Hope that helps!
And that cover though! That is the realest reason I finished watching the whole video and then proceded to read the entire comments section... It just hypnotized and shit. lol. Can I download that on iTunes yet or something?
I will check that out. Thanks a lot! We need people like you to keep us safe from this mainstream/commercial music that just hurts our ears and pollutes the world with a bunch of repeating and non-sense gibberish....
Thanks. I'm definitely trying this on my old tractor
Worked like a charm, thanks brother. Be well.
Great video! Very helpful seeing how I have the same issue with my truck.
Johnny Vannz, great video man, effective and cheap. You have a great personality, why aren't you on TV?
Thanks! The reason Im not on TV is I don't play well with others! lol
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Hey bud quick question since your fix how has it held up any cracking?
Mad respect your video just saved another one rn thank you man
Thanks!
I have a 1977 Cadillac the exuast manifold took a beating and now there are two 1" long 1/4" wide holes hoping I can get this idea to work on my manifold!
it'll do the trick man... just take your time and follow the steps
thank u bro I just fix my f250 this help alot THANK U 👊👊
Johnny Vannz Is that a cast iron exhaust manifold I need a easy repair they say you can't weld cast iron.
Hey Johnny Vannz how's it holding up? I'm thinking about doing that now that my manifold is leaking pretty badly
Johnny Vannz awesome thanks! glad to hear it's holding up and the wagon wheel cover was good!
Felicia Phillips who says you can't weld on cast iron? Use a cast iron welding rod. From my experience when welding cast iron is the cast iron will generally break again, near the weld later in life. The trick i've learnt is to take a torch and heat the cast iron up over a larger area than where you will be welding. I have also had just as much luck welding cast with stainless mig wire.
JackOfAllTrades what part of Pennsylvania you in? I'm in DC, but willing to come to you if you are willing to repair mines like this...
you rock! for real. we tried fixing with blue steel. were riding down the road got yanked cuz it was so loud and the shit eaters took our little car. I'm in need if another "mechanics special". I'm sure I'll be in touch with ya for your awesome intelligent mixture info. I could set in stone. thx.
I like your style sir! Im going to do this to my expy.. but while im that deep in it, im going to gut the cats.
As always, cheap repairs are just that and will usually prove to be temporary, but in a pinch and without being rich, they're worthwhile and satisfying. I've repaired a rusted-out hole in a resonator center seam with exhaust cement from the auto parts store (it's furnace cement but sold in smaller quantity and thus cheaper) and scrap steel window screen. The repair was a success and hugely satisfying, but the repair lasted about 10-11 months before the resonator rusted out to the point of needing replacement. But I believe that such a repair would last much longer if it's in a location that allows the entire part to be wrapped. I've heard of using "Miracle Paint" with fiberglass cloth, but that paint is terribly expensive (about $35 a PINT) and the paint has properties about it that make it hard to work with e.g. it's very thick and sets quickly due to its solvents which makes it difficult to hold a "wet edge", and it's hateful to get on you skin and you DEFINITELY need to use rubber gloves. It also bonds and cures so hard that the rim of the paint can and lid need to be perfectly clean before sealing, otherwise the the lid will never be able to be removed again and the remaining product will be wasted. Miracle Paint supposedly seals rust so well that it repairs rust permanently, but it also has a caveat in that the paint has NO UV resistance and needs to be topcoated to protect it from direct sunlight. But I believe that Miracle Paint and fiberglass would definitely work better for an exhaust repair involving the body of a muffler or catalytic converter. Thank you.
Nice!! Very creative and innovative! Thanks for posting it!
Very very smart. I love this idea!