Hoping you can give me some advice here. Have the same exact tool. Have my air at 120 lbs. so when I start as you did by submerging tube on coolant with valve open it fills the tube with coolant. Shut the valve off and coolant just simply drains back down the tube. I don’t get it. And I cannot create even the slightest bit of vacuum.
You know anything about the usage of Subaru Coolant Conditioner in 08 and up Wrx 's ? I hear it's just a stop leak product used for the older engines. However, I still see it listed in the service manuals (2013 and 2019 wrx) as strongly recommended with coolant changes. I talked with local Subaru parts department. As far as they know, the conditioner is for Subaru's that use the older green coolant and the Super Coolant already has the conditioner mixed in. I'm confused...
Ideally heater should be "on" or "open" when vacuuming. Not sure about the thermostat, but with 90% of vehicles I have not had issues. BUT some vehicles I have confirmed this does not work on are: Some midships including AW11 and SW20 MR2 and Honda S2000
@@CMAutohaus again great info. I have seen a few videos lately and I think you are the only one to fill the clear tube with coolant first to prevent the added air. Thank you
@@CMAutohaus when it purges the air from the system, any idea if it pulls it from the heater core as well? Meaning its filling the engine block and the other misc components right? I just dont see how it gets past the thermostat or pump.
quick question.. the shop air is pushing air through and out the other side creating a vacuum inside the system while pushing air through it? Venturi effect? I'm confused here lol
i failed miserably using this method.... what kind of air compressor do you need for this? i was using 1 gallon and 6 gallon air compressor with +175 psi and both did not have enough create enough pressure for a vaccumm. i resulted doing the old school burping system with the system on....
You need a bigger compressor. The shop compressor is the 30gal Harbor Freight one. Its air volume, not pressure you need. IIRC my regular is always set at approx 100psi
Although some cars MAY* present an issue. I had no problems on a 3rd gen MR2, but it did not work for me on a 1st gen MR2. Possible user error on my end?
@@CMAutohaus So I'm trying to do this with a Mack dump truck diesel engine cooling system.. I've seen people use this on their trucks.. you think that's enough pressure?
Thanks for that video. I bought that exact tool after watching and man do I wish I had that for years, best money spent in a long time
Great video. Nice explanation and tips like priming the inlet feed etc. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Whenever I use that tool I keep the bucket above the radiator cap so that when it loses vacuum it continues to fill the radiator via gravity.
Very good tip! I will start doing the same!
Hoping you can give me some advice here. Have the same exact tool. Have my air at 120 lbs. so when I start as you did by submerging tube on coolant with valve open it fills the tube with coolant. Shut the valve off and coolant just simply drains back down the tube. I don’t get it. And I cannot create even the slightest bit of vacuum.
Sound like you have a defective tool.
You know anything about the usage of Subaru Coolant Conditioner in 08 and up Wrx 's ? I hear it's just a stop leak product used for the older engines. However, I still see it listed in the service manuals (2013 and 2019 wrx) as strongly recommended with coolant changes. I talked with local Subaru parts department. As far as they know, the conditioner is for Subaru's that use the older green coolant and the Super Coolant already has the conditioner mixed in. I'm confused...
Conditioner is for the older green coolant only. I remember the TSBs on this
Good video, I assume the pressure will open up the thermostat just slightly to allow it to flow… what about the heater core? Thx
Ideally heater should be "on" or "open" when vacuuming. Not sure about the thermostat, but with 90% of vehicles I have not had issues.
BUT some vehicles I have confirmed this does not work on are:
Some midships including AW11 and SW20 MR2 and Honda S2000
@@CMAutohaus thank you. Would be great if you could also vacuum out old coolant this way no residual is left in heater core or block.
@@FD-dh2fu Exactly my thoughts!
@@CMAutohaus again great info. I have seen a few videos lately and I think you are the only one to fill the clear tube with coolant first to prevent the added air. Thank you
@@CMAutohaus when it purges the air from the system, any idea if it pulls it from the heater core as well? Meaning its filling the engine block and the other misc components right? I just dont see how it gets past the thermostat or pump.
quick question.. the shop air is pushing air through and out the other side creating a vacuum inside the system while pushing air through it? Venturi effect? I'm confused here lol
Contact air lift for a good response. I just know the tool works great for me.
Yes - it's venturi effect. Clever man
Can you drain old coolant from the system too with this tool?
No. Tool is only for refilling.
Nice animu stickers, dawg.
Much appreciated! I have trouble with women IRL, so anime girls have been my fall back.
@@CMAutohaus dude ur the man lol
@@KingdomCre8tive Thanks for the support LOL!
Hmmm either this model or the 550000
i failed miserably using this method.... what kind of air compressor do you need for this? i was using 1 gallon and 6 gallon air compressor with +175 psi and both did not have enough create enough pressure for a vaccumm. i resulted doing the old school burping system with the system on....
You need a bigger compressor. The shop compressor is the 30gal Harbor Freight one. Its air volume, not pressure you need. IIRC my regular is always set at approx 100psi
Although some cars MAY* present an issue. I had no problems on a 3rd gen MR2, but it did not work for me on a 1st gen MR2. Possible user error on my end?
@@CMAutohaus So I'm trying to do this with a Mack dump truck diesel engine cooling system.. I've seen people use this on their trucks.. you think that's enough pressure?
@@michaelsotomayor5001 I dont see why not, bigger cooling system just means it will take longer to build vacuum