Thank you so much for explaining this. I removed the sensor magnet, sprayed Berryman-12 carb cleaner thru both the holes untill the magnet rattled in the housing freely and put it back in. Now it runs like a sewing machine. So glad for a success story!!!
Holy cow so glad you made this video 3 years ago and its still up. My 15 Jetta TSI went into limp mode a couple weeks back. Was getting the camshaft position sensor codes, bank over advanced codes, misfire codes. Didn't know what was going on, replaced the sensor cause i'm pretty noobish when it comes to cars thinking that it was the cause. Didnt fix it, had it towed to a shop in town and they were trying to tell me my engine was shot(They like a family local shop and probably hardly ever see european cars) I didn't take their word and had it towed back home. Luckily during search's I found a reddit post that linked to this video. Went in and did oil and filter change and pulled the solenoid off. Didn't have tool for the valve so I left it in for now, But the pin on the solenoid was stuck, After some pressure got it free and cleaned it myself, Hooked everything back up and cleared codes, My jetta is back up and running with no issues!
Wow! I wish I had found this video a month ago when I started having issues with my 2016 Jetta. The engine light went on, and I thought it was due to spark plugs and coil packs. I replaced those, cleared the codes, but the light came back on about a week later. I then replaced the camshaft position sensor after looking at the new codes. That didn't fix the issue either. The light stayed on, and the misfire that I was experiencing while idling was starting to get really bad. I saw the P0011 fault code, but for whatever reason, UA-cam didn't show me this video. I wish it would have because this explains everything so well. My warranties wound up covering me with this issue, and the dealer did the job in the video with no charge to me. But it was exactly this issue. Camshaft adjuster magnet.
UA-cam has changed the way they rank videos, and it is unfortunate. However, liking the video and subscribing helps me show up to more people that need to see it. Thanks for watching, and I’m glad you got your car fixed!
Extremely helpful and professional video. Sadly, Amazon shows the tool as unavailable...but I was able to find the removal tool and will give this a go when the set arrives.
Wow thank you for this video. Got this code and realized there was a lot of carbon build up, got that cleaned and replaced the spark plugs. Dealership quoted me $3k+ to fix this issue on my 2015 Passat, almost a 3rd of what I paid for it!!! Going to check this out first and hope that this is the issue.
This saved me today. I tried the rear caliper tool trick. Sadly someone lost the one that fits. I was able with a quick squirt through both holes on the screen side get the center moving nice. Squirted in the magnetic side and chucks came out. Got that moving free. Oil change sticker was 2k until due from valvoline. Engine was 2 quarts low. Super dirty. I went to do an oil change after cleaning. Previous guy rounded out the drain plug. Told customer to ask whoever did the oil change to explain
So I read this reply but I’m confused as to what he meant or used when he said “ quick squirt through both holes on the screen side” Are you using brake cleaner on the sensor side or the cam side ?
Hi Can Someone explain . While loosening this solenoid should the ⚙️ that the solenoid is in Move while loosening the solenoid. Bcuz I noticed that while loosening the SOLENOID MY GEAR MOVED . Now I’m worried that means my chains skipped a tooth making the timing Screwed
First of all, thank you for the great video. So I have the same car. Been dealing with the same issue a while. So I was getting the same code, and a rough idle. Rough idle only when the motor was cold or the first few miles in stop and go traffic. After diagnosing the cam magnet, I took the magnet and valve thing out and cleaned both. It seemed like the oil (fresh) was keeping the pin in the magnet from moving freely. So I cleaned both with brake cleaner. And car ran perfect for a couple weeks. So cleaned it again and again and again. Each time getting less time with it working properly. My question is, if I clean it and works great for almost a week or after the car is warm it runs perfect the rest of the day even if it’s clogged with oil then how is broke. I change my oil way more often than suggested. Use proper spec oil. How could cleaning it fix it but it “breaks” when it gets clogged with clean oil???
Have you tried replacing the magnet? It might be worn. That would be my next step. I would probably replace the valve insert as well. What weight oil are you using?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I actually replaced the magnet today. And thank god it fixed it. I have been throwing different sensors and parts at it for the past year. Thank you for your video.
I have the P0011 on my 2008 GTI - FSI Engine. Just went ahead ordered a replacement solenoid. Im hoping this will clear the code, before having to mess with the cam timing
Car Smarts with Mr. B ended up not getting rid of the code. Going to try and change the oil and see if that is the issue (could use new oil anyways). I dont think the cam timing is off. I had the FSI engine that had the cam follower issues, and replaced the entire intake camshaft and timing cam chain. I used the tool to make sure the cams were aligned, so I dont believe the actual cams to off timing. Anything else you’d recommend checking?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB only the P0011. I did a complete oil change so I dont think its the low pressure. It could be chain timing. I made sure to make check the timing marks on the camshaft chain and camshaft itself lined up, but after speaking to someone who has worked on FSI engines, sometimes the chain can just a link if not tensioned properly.
what is that part name? The one you cleaned and / the part that requires a special tool. I cannot find that part on ECS. I found the first one just not the other
Passat 2010 1.4tsi check engine #P0016 Got about 3 times clicking sound and engine jerking only while idle at cold start then working normally? Any similar fix here could make my life easier❤?
@@sebastianparedes755 1000% positive i'm an Audi tech and have do it many times it does move the chain with the cams a little but its already moving with it timed.
Thanks for this great turtorial. I have a question about the VVT valve body at 4:45 where you illustrate how the center of the body can be pushed in. We just did a timing chain service and after, the car runs well but we have a P0011 code. The cams were properly locked, I'm fairly confident the chain gears are properly timed. The magnetic actuator also appears to move freely although I have not electronically tested it. When we pulled the magnetic actuator for the timing service, it was particularly difficult to remove, even once the gasket was free'd up, and made a significant popping noise when it finally let loose. Now, its back together and when I tried to remove the VVT valvebody, I couldn't get it to break free (turning CW, reverse thread) without having a wrench on the cam to counter. So, I tried to move the center of the VVT vavlebody (as you show at 4:45) and while installed I could not get it to budge. I am curious if you know if this is a function of it being installed, or a function of the VVT valve not working correctly. Thanks!
Did you manage to resolve the issue? I too have P0011 code on my 1.8TSI. It seems that the spring of the actuator is stuck down too. I'm unable to remove it and check as the uploader claims I do not need to hold the crank down. Perhaps I will try to hold the crank and loosen it. Worried that my engine could be experiencing a stretched timing chain.
@@plzdonhack yes. Replacing the valve resolved our issue. Ours was also very difficult to remove, I suspect it was over torqued which may have been part of the issue as the center actuated normally once the part was removed but was bound when it was installed (and over tightened).
Hi,I got Audi a3 8v 1.8tfsi 2014 I've replaced that solenoid on the exhaust and the sound goes off, so now that sound came back, what could be the problem?
Hello thank you for your video, i got an 1.4 tsi caxa, on cold start its perfect sounding but when it reaches operating temp. And i shut the car off and go somewhere for 30 minutes and when i come back and start it i hear a loud clicking noise only when the engine is just before operating temp, could it be that ? Car drives perfectly fine normal usage, power the same
I was driving my 2010 tiguan and then my serpentine belt ripped in shreds and some of it got stuck in my alternator pulley. I tried to get enough of it out so it could spin when I put the serpentine belt on. I thought it fixed my problem but my engine kept stalling and wouldn't start after turning the key. I started getting the p0011 and p0341 code dealing with the camshaft. I think the belt hit the wire of solenoid and whatever is around it after it snapped. I'm gonna try to fix this before taking it to a mechanic shop.
My 1.8T is throwing this code. Replaced the whole tensioner unit twice, new chain, checked static timing on chain and belt. All line up to their marks. Replaced the hall sensor and fuel pump relay which ross-tech suggests. Still have this code. Driving me insane. Only thoughts left are a bad wiring harness or the driver in the ECU is shot.
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! Quick question, iS there any kid of gasket or something between the magnet and the chain cover? Can i just go ahead and take it out ?
Hi ya doing Mr. B? I have a 09 VW EOS with the 2.0t tsi engine. I rebuilt the engine and the p0011 code keeps popping up. Everything has been replaced, oilpump, rod and main bearings, piston rings, head gasket, head completely rebuilt at Ewing machine shop, all timing chains, guides and tensioners, intake camshaft and phaser/timing gear, camshaft adjuster magnet, camshaft solenoid, camshaft bridge bracket, it has the castrol edge 5w-30 full synthetic oil, new Bocsh oil filter, bought the timing tool set to time the crank and cams. Runs and drives perfect I just get the p0011 when I accelerate not at idle. Thanks for the video.
@@clab3171 It was the new aftermarket camshaft phaser causing the problem. I just put the old oem phaser back on it and didn't have anymore problems. Don't know if it came back because I sold it a long time ago.
Hi! Thanks a lot for the video!!! I have a 2019 Kodiaq 1.5 TSI DADA engine. I am getting P0011 code only on cold engine (oil temp lower than 60 degrees). Car used to drive on 5w40 and 5w30 oil, recently changed to 0w20. Problem popped up only 2 months ago, and is still there after oil change. Cleaning the solenoid magnet and oil control valve did not help. Would you advise replacing either of the two (if so - which one would you replace first)? There is another control valve inside the intake camshaft (on which the magnet solenoid is pressing) but it is very difficult to get to. On live data I notice an additional strange thing. When driving on cold engine, after engine Start/Stop shutdown, the specified value for intake camshaft gets "stuck" at 8.7 degrees, while actual value cycles between 8.7 and 12.0 degrees. Pressing the accelerator does not alter the specified value sent by ECU. After a few seconds, it gets "unstuck" and specified starts reacting to changes in driving behavior and actual value follows specified more closely. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I can share graphs if needed. Thanks a ton for your help!
Very informative video and thanks. I am about to replace both parts myself....VVT magnet/solenoid and oil control valve. Question: Were you able to take the oil control valve out and back in without having to put any reverse tension on the cam so nothing rotates....or does that not matter since everything is all sync'ed up? I just want to make sure before I get in there. Thanks!
Nice I know this video is old but I just started working on VW and the car is throwing this could along with a cam position sensor code. The car does a weird idle like its trying to find itself in time. I got the parts already just waiting for them to come in. Ill do exactly what tou showed thanks boss 👍👍👍.
@@theking965x So I replaced that sensor and the magnetic part that was covers it. After I replaced it witch is a pretty pain in the butt I started the car and it wasnt having the weird idle anymore. The code never came back. At first I was thinking the whole timing system was going to go off but no. That sensor for the Cam shaft went bad and made it seem like the whole timing was off. I was this close to replacing the whole timing system but till this day the car has been running fine no weird idle or like if the car wanted to die.
@@theking965x no problem. I also worked on a GTI but a 2008. For that case tho it was the timing chain but the problem with that car was it didnt start and the coustomer kept trying to start it and since the chain broke it bent the valves so yeah that job was a really big pain but hopefully that wouldnt be your case. Good luck. 👍
Morning. I just replaced a timing chain on a 10 cc 2.0t and starts at first try but I got a rattle noise not to laud and p0011 p0016 .took the cover out chek the timing and it's on their marks. What did you think
Thank you very much for the video. I have the same engine and it makes a noise that comes from the same region as the magnet. A diesel noise that comes and goes after heating the car only and I have a choke at low revs. When I take out the magnetic sensor, the noise stops. Do I have the same problem? I don't have light on. Thanks.
@@chestercheetoss Tudo bem, Thiago e você?Cara, estou meio perdido ainda. Desconfio dessa peça do video, o sensor magnetico mas ainda não troquei. Você está com o mesmo problema? Assim podemos tentar nos ajudar né?Abraço
@@Levantoucortou Barulho na Polia do Variador, com o carro quente. Quando desliga o magneto o barulho para. Não tenho nenhuma luz acesa, nenhuma falha, e o desempenho do carro está ótimo.
Hi Mr. B. This is a great video!! Could this be causing my problem as well?? I have a 2013 Beetle Turbo 2.0t TSI. The car runs great except I am getting a slight knocking noise but ONLY when the car is BOTH warm and at idle. Cold start, there is no noise at all until normal operating temp is reached and the car idles down. Also, once it's warm, I only get the noise when stopped and at idle. Accelerating through the gears there is absolutely no noise whatsoever and the car runs great. Once the car is warm and I am getting the noise at idle, if I disconnect the wire from the VVT magnet, the noise goes away completely. I am going to try cleaning these parts as you showed in this video, to see if it helps. BTW, I did notice that there was oil on the end of the wire when I unplugged it, which Im sure is not supposed to happen. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB UGH! I just replaced the magnet and now the sound is not as bad as before but it is still present. Im going to try pulling the actual plunger out of the cam and clean it like you showed in the video. The plunger is definitely not bad as I can easily move it with my finger and it does not protrude from the back side. Im hoping maybe its just dirty like the one you showed in the video.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB No change after cleaning the solenoid. Just went and had the oil changed also, no change in the sound. Any advice? There is absolutely no effect on the performance of the car at all. Runs like a champ as your accelerating through the gears.
Buen día Sr.una pregunta,cuando usted afloja la vvt.la palanca de velocidades esta en parking o la pone en neutral,o que hace para que no pierda la sincronizacion del árbol Con el cigueñal,🙂
Hello Sir, I really like your vedios, its very helpfull, but i have a qustion. I have an Audi A6 2014 2.0 torbu and Ihave a problem that my car has a delay with first gear & retern (automatice gear) with cold start & blowing smoke from the exust when I start moving slowly the car jumping needs to turns off I went the service center they talled me I have a code P0011 so I have to change the intake camshaft and I know that they have no experiance to repair Audi cars So please can you helpe me with that ? what i have to do?
I have a 2014 Audi A6 2.0T with 150K miles. I'm suffering of noticeable engine vibration from engine at Idle and when you shift it in reverse. I had a P0301 and P0300 code and it would go in to EPC mode. I replaced 4 Plugs, 4 Coils then removed Intake to clean Carbon Build Up with Walnuts, Replaced 4 Injectors and PCV Valve. I threw everything but the kitchen sink at it. Any suggestions?
Have you done a cylinder leak down test or compression testing? Seems like you have fixed almost everything except compression. Any oil burning or consumption? What did the plug look like for cylinder 1?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Plug looked BLack, loosing about 1/2qt every 6-7k Miles. Car doesn’t seem to lack any power. I did notice a bunch of crank case vacuum when I lift the oil cap and the RPM changes. So after I replaced the pcv valve I didn’t observe any change. I will inspect the motor mounts, maybe do a compression test.
Hi I'm working on getting mine cleaned in my 1.8t 04 jetta. I have it exposed and can rotate it (barely) about a 16th of an inch. Im scared muscling it out will cause damage. Is it normal to have to man handle a bit?
Make sure you are turning it to the right to loosen. It has reverse threads. It should have some tension, but once it moves, it should screw right out. Should have around the same feel as removing a spark plug.
@@suprakid182 I’m sorry I didn’t see this sooner, the 2004 model you have does not have this system on it. You most likely have an issue with the chain tensioner under the valve cover. These systems weren’t used until later on you car.
Hi , suddenly i had issues with same engine EA888 2.0 from S3 2015. It had idle misfires and i swaped magnets from a different vehicle and things got almost perfect , but still a little hiccups , maybe i will clean the valves also after installing the new magnest on both cams ? Or should i change something else (car has 38 000kms on clock so i guess injectors is impossible) New OEM plugs and coils.
I would pull the intake and inspect the valves for carbon build up. That’s a common problem for these as well. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Hopefully, you can see this. I just replaced the sensor, magnet and filter. The codes clear but I’m still having a weird idle. It’s not as violent or causing the car to stall like it previously was but it’s still a weird idle every 10 seconds or so. Any ideas?
@@AutoScholarwithMrBhey thanks for the reply! So I got two things. One I now have a P2188 code (Running to rich at idle) and also the magnetic seems to be louder? I’m not sure if that’s because I’m focused on it or I did something wrong in installation. It almost sounds like that little pin in the magnet is hitting straight metal
I would not use that, and it may make things worse due to loosening more debris that can get caught higher in the system. Routine oil changes with quality oil can help the most.
GREAT video on this. I have a rattle going on from the magnet and/or spool/oil control valve on my '15 Passat 1.8T that goes away when I unplug magnet. Question, can you run this engine without the oil control/spool valve installed? I was thinking of doing an engine flush and wouldn't want the new one in there when I run flush through the system. Also, do you recall the torque on the new oil control/spool valve? I subbed and liked btw!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I literally just changed my timing chain 2 weeks ago. I replaced the tensioner, guides and all so I just need to replace the magnet and the control valve, also thank you for the quick response
Could this cause a misfire in only one cylinder? I've done absolutely everything to this car spent probably 7k this year on diagnosing and repairs that won't get rid of a cylinder one misfire it only does it at idle
What if i have p0011 and misfire codes to go with it? Does that mean its most likely a timing chain issue? Car was running perfect and then started chugging when i started it up this morning
Hey Mr. B I got codes P000A/P000AP and P0011/P0011P. I went ahead and replaced the N205 valve solenoid but the CEL came back on. Car drives fine with no issues. What do you suggest for my next step? I didn't check the magnet piece so I'll do that next. What other steps do you suggest if that doesn't work?
Car Smarts with Mr. B I just changed the oil with the same oil I’ve changed my car as well as my wife’s Tiguan so I don’t think it’s the oil. How do I check the oil pressure? Do you happen to have a video that shows how to do that? Thanks!
In my golf mk7 GTI , when I start it in the cold and the cold start sequence ends, I drive off and the car shakes for a little bit in first and second gear. Then , after 1 or 2 minutes it doesn’t do it anymore. I have a manual gearbox. I Could those parts cause this ? I don’t get any codes
@@BARBAGT500 hi. i still haven't solved the issue. I'm going to do the ignition coils next. with the cold weather the coils could be acting funny i don't know. the car trows a code of cylinder deactivation ..
@@JoaoFerreira-qy2ki I solved this problem. Mechanic replaced this complete valve which is shown on the video and now everything is.bavk to normal. Try like this first
Hi Mr B. I'm owner of 2014 Mk6 Jetta and after the oil change (Castrol Edge 5w40), my car started to fail when the engine temperature isn't at 90 degrees. But when I wait to the temperature are 90 deegrees, the car works fine. The fail appears when I use the car with the temperature under 90 deegrees. In this case, after travel 1km, the engine sounds like if running at 3 cilynder, and after a few seconds, the car stops. After this secuence, the car turn on Ok. I alredy changed the chain, the chain tensor, CMP sensor, Ignition Coils and I cleaned the Throttle body. But the problem pesists. My question is, this cleaning or replacement, could fix my problem? I appreciate much if you could help me.
I’ve been having this issue for months… I changed my oil to mobil1 0w40 and ever since switching grades for winter I haven’t had the issue. I’ve been running Castrol edge 5w40 or pennzoil euro 5w40…. Any idea what happened?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB THank you for your fast repply. P000A could also fixed with your repair? I had my chain changed 8000km ago, because of the well-known tensioner problems of those models (1.4 tsi 2007).
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you for your guidance. Terrible experience so far with this engine! I also have a short, my fuse F21 blows with sparks when I introduce the fuse. Also having error code P2262 /turbocharger) & P10AD. Not sure yet if it's because of the short or the short is due to a problem with the electromagnetic clutch of the water pump. Great channel, already subscribed to learn more!
i have same code (p0011)on my passat cc 2012 1.8 tsi.engine shaking in idle. i changed a cam adjuster magnet but problem still. shud i change a solenoid? please help..
i have the same problem as you dlko. 2014 vw passat, shakes during idle, p0011 code. i have been told that it could be the camshaft sensor, which is towards the front of the engine. i think i might try this first, and if it doesn't work then get a new sensor. let me know if you come up with anything
@@gabecampos7852scan ur car.if code was p0011 dont change cam shaft in front engine.iam changed it but problem still.iam changed magnet too.still problem!i think my problem is in solenoid
This is a Snap On Zeus in the video, but lower priced scan tools are fine for this as well. I just use this one because it has a large screen and is easy to video and teach with. I also have a Verus Pro, solus edge, and Autel Maxysis.
Could not find the spec, I would just snug it up. Due to the rotation of the engine and that they are reverse thread, they won’t come loose. Thanks for watching!
I got this code and a parts store told me it was the vvt solenoid but there were 2. One by the oil pan and one somewhere else. Is this the non oil pan one? I can't find any info anywhere
@@AutoScholarwithMrB just wanted to say thank you, this was my issue. Ordered new parts and replaced them my self. Parts and tools were $100 total. Engine light went away almost instantly, passed smog. You're a money saver!
Hello, I have a 2014 Jetta SE 1.8 tsi turbo. Cold start idle roughs, threw check engine light. Went and took it to be repaired. I was told it was the oil solenoid valve. They ordered the inner part and they went to put in and after 3 different parts that superceded the original won't fit. Supposedly the new part is smaller than the original so threads will seat into shaft. They removed the original valve cleaned and put back in. Drove it and is doing the same thing as original problem. Do you know if you have to replace camshaft to use the new parts or if there is a way to get the original part? Or should I just replace the magnetic part and see if it fixes the problem. Before taking it in originally I did remove the magnetic part and when I did the magnetic tip was hung up,sprayed cleaner in it and freed it up and replaced but problem still occurred. Could the magnetic part just be hanging from time to time. Kinda at a loss any help would be appreciated. Also I removed pwr to electromagnetic part and it seems to get better at idle. Thanks in advance.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB , not 100% sure I know one was retarded camshaft. P0011 Also throw a misfire code, and not sure but sometimes not able to use cruise control after throwing the check engine,so thinking also transmission code. After they cleaned the inner oil valve, check engine light on but I am currently able to use cruise control.
@@robertemmons1811 those can have chain and tensioner issues as well as the adjuster issues. It is really hard to say without the car in front of me. Due to the temperature changing things, it may be an oil pressure issue. Make sure the oil is the correct weight and the pressures are within specification.
Wait so I don’t need to replace my timing chain??? That’s what autozone said it was for lol I look it up and it’s actually the variable valve timing. All I have to do is replace it?? I found a new one at pick a part for the 2008 vw Jetta
The bolts holding the magnet are 4nm and 45 degrees. They are supposed to be one time use, but I had had no issue reusing. The piece further in? I cannot find any spec on it. I just cinch it up about the same tightness as an oil drain plug and have never had an issue out of one. Remember, the second piece is reverse thread!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks for these I just ordered the vag tool today so I'm doing this asap. Do they make a rattle at medium idle say 1500rpm when this gets stuck. I've heard of this being the issue. And lethargic to drive compared to normal?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB lts a little hunty on idle at times but not all the time. Will do buddy probably next week. I bit the bullet and got a new valve also. Over here around 54gbp so not too expensive neither. 😊
Hello i have a 2014 jetta with the 1.8t motor. Car runs good when not warmed up but after like 20 or 30 min it will have a hesitation around 1500rpm or when going uphills. changed plugs, coils, and fuel injector cleaning. Could this be my issue?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Just bought the car june 1st. 70k miles did not notice when i bought it. But now seems to be more noticeable. i took it on vacation and in the hills it has become very noticable.
Hey Mr. B, 2016 JETTA GLI here with 56k miles. P0011 code, car idles like crap and toys to stall at stops, then some times it runs perfect. If it was the timing chain wouldn't it run like crap all the time? I've replaced the camshaft position sensor. It took a week of running like that to finally throw a code. After I do your trick today if it still runs the same, what should I try next. OBDELEVEN is in the mail.
I would think if it was anything mechanical it would happen all the time. The car in this video actually ran fine, but still presented this code. I would try what I have done above and then see what happens. Have you done any recent mods or other things to the car?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB bought the car stock, 3 days after I had a stage 1+ flash tune by unitronics done, took a few days before I noticed a slight idle stumble after cold start settled down but would clear up with a rev. Few days later the issue slowly got worse. Now it will run fine one drive, and the next stumble and even die at complete stops. Everyone knows of the timing chain issues with this engine, just trying to avoid $1600 timing replacement. Im hearing the wrong oil could be a problem, the dealership was a used car lot, they said they replaced with what VW called for, not sure though.
Im currently having the same code P0011, i noticed the streams of the intake cam oil control valve are a bit damaged, can they be the ones causing the intake cam timing to over advance?
Dude! This just saved me thousands, instead of taking it to the dealership I replaced these parts and my check engine light went off! Thank you!
Thank you so much for explaining this. I removed the sensor magnet, sprayed Berryman-12 carb cleaner thru both the holes untill the magnet rattled in the housing freely and put it back in. Now it runs like a sewing machine. So glad for a success story!!!
Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing your success and thanks for watching.
Question about this
Update,,,,, ended up replacing the magnet cam position unit. Car runs flawlessly now. They are very fussy on oil quality.
@@jerrywilliams3812 you were saying before that you took the solenoid out and cleaned it and replaced it back in?
Was it making a noise before you cleaned it? I’m tracking down a knocking noise
Holy cow so glad you made this video 3 years ago and its still up. My 15 Jetta TSI went into limp mode a couple weeks back. Was getting the camshaft position sensor codes, bank over advanced codes, misfire codes. Didn't know what was going on, replaced the sensor cause i'm pretty noobish when it comes to cars thinking that it was the cause. Didnt fix it, had it towed to a shop in town and they were trying to tell me my engine was shot(They like a family local shop and probably hardly ever see european cars) I didn't take their word and had it towed back home. Luckily during search's I found a reddit post that linked to this video. Went in and did oil and filter change and pulled the solenoid off. Didn't have tool for the valve so I left it in for now, But the pin on the solenoid was stuck, After some pressure got it free and cleaned it myself, Hooked everything back up and cleared codes, My jetta is back up and running with no issues!
Glad you got it fixed!
did u have a leak oil before? and after fix it's gone?*
@@bm_wuratli6883 No oil leak on my side that I was aware of. My main symptoms were the misfires and rough idle.
Wow! I wish I had found this video a month ago when I started having issues with my 2016 Jetta. The engine light went on, and I thought it was due to spark plugs and coil packs. I replaced those, cleared the codes, but the light came back on about a week later. I then replaced the camshaft position sensor after looking at the new codes. That didn't fix the issue either. The light stayed on, and the misfire that I was experiencing while idling was starting to get really bad.
I saw the P0011 fault code, but for whatever reason, UA-cam didn't show me this video. I wish it would have because this explains everything so well. My warranties wound up covering me with this issue, and the dealer did the job in the video with no charge to me. But it was exactly this issue. Camshaft adjuster magnet.
UA-cam has changed the way they rank videos, and it is unfortunate. However, liking the video and subscribing helps me show up to more people that need to see it. Thanks for watching, and I’m glad you got your car fixed!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Liked and subbed!
how much torque should i put on those t30s?
This worked for my 2014 passat tsi !! Running like a champ
Extremely helpful and professional video. Sadly, Amazon shows the tool as unavailable...but I was able to find the removal tool and will give this a go when the set arrives.
Thanks for watching Timothy!
Wow thank you for this video. Got this code and realized there was a lot of carbon build up, got that cleaned and replaced the spark plugs. Dealership quoted me $3k+ to fix this issue on my 2015 Passat, almost a 3rd of what I paid for it!!! Going to check this out first and hope that this is the issue.
Good luck with your repair!
how much torque should i put on those t30s?
This saved me today. I tried the rear caliper tool trick. Sadly someone lost the one that fits. I was able with a quick squirt through both holes on the screen side get the center moving nice. Squirted in the magnetic side and chucks came out. Got that moving free.
Oil change sticker was 2k until due from valvoline. Engine was 2 quarts low. Super dirty.
I went to do an oil change after cleaning. Previous guy rounded out the drain plug. Told customer to ask whoever did the oil change to explain
Glad this worked for your customer!
So I read this reply but I’m confused as to what he meant or used when he said “ quick squirt through both holes on the screen side”
Are you using brake cleaner on the sensor side or the cam side ?
@@v.alexander300same question here
Hi Can Someone explain . While loosening this solenoid should the ⚙️ that the solenoid is in Move while loosening the solenoid. Bcuz I noticed that while loosening the SOLENOID MY GEAR MOVED . Now I’m worried that means my chains skipped a tooth making the timing Screwed
Very informative my 2015 was doing what was explained in video cleaned everything and seems to be working good so far
Thanks for watching! Glad it worked for you.
First of all, thank you for the great video. So I have the same car. Been dealing with the same issue a while. So I was getting the same code, and a rough idle. Rough idle only when the motor was cold or the first few miles in stop and go traffic. After diagnosing the cam magnet, I took the magnet and valve thing out and cleaned both. It seemed like the oil (fresh) was keeping the pin in the magnet from moving freely. So I cleaned both with brake cleaner. And car ran perfect for a couple weeks. So cleaned it again and again and again. Each time getting less time with it working properly. My question is, if I clean it and works great for almost a week or after the car is warm it runs perfect the rest of the day even if it’s clogged with oil then how is broke. I change my oil way more often than suggested. Use proper spec oil. How could cleaning it fix it but it “breaks” when it gets clogged with clean oil???
Have you tried replacing the magnet? It might be worn. That would be my next step. I would probably replace the valve insert as well. What weight oil are you using?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I actually replaced the magnet today. And thank god it fixed it. I have been throwing different sensors and parts at it for the past year. Thank you for your video.
@@robertwinnall8120 do you have a part number for the magnet or what’s that magnet called? I can’t seem to find it maybe I’m not looking right
@@luiscalderon652 I did a little research and 06H109259A is the magnet my 2014 jetta 1.8 tsi calls for
Awesome video! Thank you so much. One question though; what’s the valve insert called? Part number?
Can you remove that part with the holes without that special tool?
I have the P0011 on my 2008 GTI - FSI Engine. Just went ahead ordered a replacement solenoid. Im hoping this will clear the code, before having to mess with the cam timing
I have my fingers crossed for you. Thanks so much for watching!
Car Smarts with Mr. B ended up not getting rid of the code. Going to try and change the oil and see if that is the issue (could use new oil anyways). I dont think the cam timing is off. I had the FSI engine that had the cam follower issues, and replaced the entire intake camshaft and timing cam chain. I used the tool to make sure the cams were aligned, so I dont believe the actual cams to off timing. Anything else you’d recommend checking?
Cristian G it might be timing chain stretch as well. May also be low oil pressure at times. What codes are you getting?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB only the P0011. I did a complete oil change so I dont think its the low pressure. It could be chain timing. I made sure to make check the timing marks on the camshaft chain and camshaft itself lined up, but after speaking to someone who has worked on FSI engines, sometimes the chain can just a link if not tensioned properly.
what is that part name? The one you cleaned and / the part that requires a special tool. I cannot find that part on ECS. I found the first one just not the other
Passat 2010 1.4tsi check engine #P0016
Got about 3 times clicking sound and engine jerking only while idle at cold start then working normally? Any similar fix here could make my life easier❤?
Is the rough idle cyclical or all over the place?
Do you need to lock the camshaft to remove the solenoid? Is there a risk of putting the timing out while loosening it?
No need to hold the cams. The cams will rotate already timed. So when you put it back on nothing looses timing. Done 100 of these this way.
Are you sure it wont move the timming
@@sebastianparedes755 1000% positive i'm an Audi tech and have do it many times it does move the chain with the cams a little but its already moving with it timed.
is the vvt valve usually hard to open with the special tool? I turning right loosy but Im hittin alot of resistance, maybe I need a bigger wrench?
Any issues with reinstalling the oil control valve? If it gets put back in wrong can timing be off?
Thank you for your time …the car I’m working on is making a loud rattle when I crank it cold and has same codes hope this is my problem…??
It’s worth a shot for sure, good luck with your problem!
Man this is exactly what's happening with my VW Passat. I'm going to see if can get it fixed. Thanks for the video?
I hope this is your fix, Alec. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this great turtorial. I have a question about the VVT valve body at 4:45 where you illustrate how the center of the body can be pushed in. We just did a timing chain service and after, the car runs well but we have a P0011 code. The cams were properly locked, I'm fairly confident the chain gears are properly timed. The magnetic actuator also appears to move freely although I have not electronically tested it. When we pulled the magnetic actuator for the timing service, it was particularly difficult to remove, even once the gasket was free'd up, and made a significant popping noise when it finally let loose. Now, its back together and when I tried to remove the VVT valvebody, I couldn't get it to break free (turning CW, reverse thread) without having a wrench on the cam to counter. So, I tried to move the center of the VVT vavlebody (as you show at 4:45) and while installed I could not get it to budge. I am curious if you know if this is a function of it being installed, or a function of the VVT valve not working correctly. Thanks!
Did you manage to resolve the issue? I too have P0011 code on my 1.8TSI. It seems that the spring of the actuator is stuck down too. I'm unable to remove it and check as the uploader claims I do not need to hold the crank down. Perhaps I will try to hold the crank and loosen it. Worried that my engine could be experiencing a stretched timing chain.
@@plzdonhack yes. Replacing the valve resolved our issue. Ours was also very difficult to remove, I suspect it was over torqued which may have been part of the issue as the center actuated normally once the part was removed but was bound when it was installed (and over tightened).
Hi,I got Audi a3 8v 1.8tfsi 2014 I've replaced that solenoid on the exhaust and the sound goes off, so now that sound came back, what could be the problem?
Hello thank you for your video, i got an 1.4 tsi caxa, on cold start its perfect sounding but when it reaches operating temp. And i shut the car off and go somewhere for 30 minutes and when i come back and start it i hear a loud clicking noise only when the engine is just before operating temp, could it be that ? Car drives perfectly fine normal usage, power the same
I was driving my 2010 tiguan and then my serpentine belt ripped in shreds and some of it got stuck in my alternator pulley. I tried to get enough of it out so it could spin when I put the serpentine belt on. I thought it fixed my problem but my engine kept stalling and wouldn't start after turning the key. I started getting the p0011 and p0341 code dealing with the camshaft. I think the belt hit the wire of solenoid and whatever is around it after it snapped. I'm gonna try to fix this before taking it to a mechanic shop.
hi it's clearly leaking oil right there 2:31 that because of the magnet? or valve inside?*
My 1.8T is throwing this code. Replaced the whole tensioner unit twice, new chain, checked static timing on chain and belt. All line up to their marks. Replaced the hall sensor and fuel pump relay which ross-tech suggests. Still have this code. Driving me insane. Only thoughts left are a bad wiring harness or the driver in the ECU is shot.
Did you watch the video?
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! Quick question, iS there any kid of gasket or something between the magnet and the chain cover? Can i just go ahead and take it out ?
The oil screen on my camshaft solenoid (5:00) has been chewed up by my motor, Im gonna replace the solenoid and flush the motor, will I be okay?
I would replace the valve with the broken screen for sure
Hi ya doing Mr. B? I have a 09 VW EOS with the 2.0t tsi engine. I rebuilt the engine and the p0011 code keeps popping up. Everything has been replaced, oilpump, rod and main bearings, piston rings, head gasket, head completely rebuilt at Ewing machine shop, all timing chains, guides and tensioners, intake camshaft and phaser/timing gear, camshaft adjuster magnet, camshaft solenoid, camshaft bridge bracket, it has the castrol edge 5w-30 full synthetic oil, new Bocsh oil filter, bought the timing tool set to time the crank and cams. Runs and drives perfect I just get the p0011 when I accelerate not at idle. Thanks for the video.
Did you ever solve the issue @amaolud78
@@clab3171 It was the new aftermarket camshaft phaser causing the problem. I just put the old oem phaser back on it and didn't have anymore problems. Don't know if it came back because I sold it a long time ago.
Hi! Thanks a lot for the video!!! I have a 2019 Kodiaq 1.5 TSI DADA engine. I am getting P0011 code only on cold engine (oil temp lower than 60 degrees). Car used to drive on 5w40 and 5w30 oil, recently changed to 0w20. Problem popped up only 2 months ago, and is still there after oil change. Cleaning the solenoid magnet and oil control valve did not help. Would you advise replacing either of the two (if so - which one would you replace first)? There is another control valve inside the intake camshaft (on which the magnet solenoid is pressing) but it is very difficult to get to. On live data I notice an additional strange thing. When driving on cold engine, after engine Start/Stop shutdown, the specified value for intake camshaft gets "stuck" at 8.7 degrees, while actual value cycles between 8.7 and 12.0 degrees. Pressing the accelerator does not alter the specified value sent by ECU. After a few seconds, it gets "unstuck" and specified starts reacting to changes in driving behavior and actual value follows specified more closely. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I can share graphs if needed. Thanks a ton for your help!
Why the heck would you ever go to 0w-20. Luck you do something serious to your engine
I have 2007 audi q7 with the same issue, do you think something like that will work omy audi obviously is different sistem
Very good video. Good description of problem and fix.
Thanks for watching!
Very informative video and thanks. I am about to replace both parts myself....VVT magnet/solenoid and oil control valve. Question: Were you able to take the oil control valve out and back in without having to put any reverse tension on the cam so nothing rotates....or does that not matter since everything is all sync'ed up? I just want to make sure before I get in there. Thanks!
You should not have to use too much strength to get it off, so it shouldn’t rotate. Thanks for watching and good luck!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB, thank you very much! :-)
Did it work?
@@AutoScholarwithMrBHi there, I was not able to remove the valve no matter how I try. May I know whats the best course of action from here on?
@@plzdonhack are you turning it the correct direction? Should turn clockwise to loosen.
One of the bolts snapped when I went to take out the magnetic adjuster. Any suggestions?
Great work man. Thanks a lot for this video.
Nice I know this video is old but I just started working on VW and the car is throwing this could along with a cam position sensor code. The car does a weird idle like its trying to find itself in time. I got the parts already just waiting for them to come in. Ill do exactly what tou showed thanks boss 👍👍👍.
Just outta curiosity what happened after and what parts did you get?
@@theking965x So I replaced that sensor and the magnetic part that was covers it. After I replaced it witch is a pretty pain in the butt I started the car and it wasnt having the weird idle anymore. The code never came back. At first I was thinking the whole timing system was going to go off but no. That sensor for the Cam shaft went bad and made it seem like the whole timing was off. I was this close to replacing the whole timing system but till this day the car has been running fine no weird idle or like if the car wanted to die.
@@theking965x sorry forgot to say what parts I got. So I got the VVT solinoid the Cam shaft adjuster magnet and also the cam shaft position sensor.
@@AlexRH1991 thank you very much I have a ‘15 gti and this came up and there’s other things happening too so I’m trying to piece everything together
@@theking965x no problem. I also worked on a GTI but a 2008. For that case tho it was the timing chain but the problem with that car was it didnt start and the coustomer kept trying to start it and since the chain broke it bent the valves so yeah that job was a really big pain but hopefully that wouldnt be your case. Good luck. 👍
Code 0027 and 0029 are also related to this solenoid or it's different valve? Thanks!
Good solid info, not clown town verbal vomite like 90% out there. Thanks.
Thanks for watching Mikel!
You answered my main concern about the idling. Going take care of it. Thank you.
That’s for watching Luis!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I tried ordering both parts. $222 each. Trying to find a cheaper place. That was the dealership.
@@luisortizvazquez You should be able to get the magnet for 30-50 bucks. I hope you didn't pay that much!
Morning. I just replaced a timing chain on a 10 cc 2.0t and starts at first try but I got a rattle noise not to laud and p0011 p0016 .took the cover out chek the timing and it's on their marks. What did you think
Have you replaced or cleaned the two pieces talked about in the video?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB not yet but I'm going to tomorrow morning. Thanks for the good info. Also I just subscribe
Thanks so much for watching! I hope you get your issue fixed.
so what happens if you get the wrong size would you still be able to drive it ?
Thank you very much for the video. I have the same engine and it makes a noise that comes from the same region as the magnet. A diesel noise that comes and goes after heating the car only and I have a choke at low revs. When I take out the magnetic sensor, the noise stops. Do I have the same problem? I don't have light on. Thanks.
Fala Marcelo! Tudo certo? Conseguiu resolver o seu problema? Abs!
@@chestercheetoss Tudo bem, Thiago e você?Cara, estou meio perdido ainda. Desconfio dessa peça do video, o sensor magnetico mas ainda não troquei. Você está com o mesmo problema? Assim podemos tentar nos ajudar né?Abraço
@@Levantoucortou Não consigo te enviar o meu contato.
@@chestercheetoss Qual que é o problema que o seu carro está tendo?
@@Levantoucortou Barulho na Polia do Variador, com o carro quente. Quando desliga o magneto o barulho para. Não tenho nenhuma luz acesa, nenhuma falha, e o desempenho do carro está ótimo.
Best video i’ve seen on the matter.
Thanks for watching Kaden!
Do you have to drain the oil first ? Do you have to disconnect the battery ?
Doing my 2010 Audi A4 quattro next week
Thanks
I did not drain the oil or disconnect the battery, but disconnecting the battery is actually a good idea.
Hi Mr. B. This is a great video!! Could this be causing my problem as well?? I have a 2013 Beetle Turbo 2.0t TSI. The car runs great except I am getting a slight knocking noise but ONLY when the car is BOTH warm and at idle. Cold start, there is no noise at all until normal operating temp is reached and the car idles down. Also, once it's warm, I only get the noise when stopped and at idle. Accelerating through the gears there is absolutely no noise whatsoever and the car runs great. Once the car is warm and I am getting the noise at idle, if I disconnect the wire from the VVT magnet, the noise goes away completely. I am going to try cleaning these parts as you showed in this video, to see if it helps. BTW, I did notice that there was oil on the end of the wire when I unplugged it, which Im sure is not supposed to happen. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Yes I would replace the magnet for sure on that
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you! I actually just got the part in the mail and am going to replace it today.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB UGH! I just replaced the magnet and now the sound is not as bad as before but it is still present. Im going to try pulling the actual plunger out of the cam and clean it like you showed in the video. The plunger is definitely not bad as I can easily move it with my finger and it does not protrude from the back side. Im hoping maybe its just dirty like the one you showed in the video.
@@The_Gary_Douglas well it looks like you are on to something if the noise changed.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB No change after cleaning the solenoid. Just went and had the oil changed also, no change in the sound. Any advice? There is absolutely no effect on the performance of the car at all. Runs like a champ as your accelerating through the gears.
Buen día Sr.una pregunta,cuando usted afloja la vvt.la palanca de velocidades esta en parking o la pone en neutral,o que hace para que no pierda la sincronizacion del árbol
Con el cigueñal,🙂
Thank you Mr B for posting this very useful video with great details! It saved me a ton of time and money.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Very well put together video, this solved the problem on a 2014 VW Passat. Thank you very much for your time in putting this together.
Awesome! Glad to be of help.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB did the car make idle sounds similar to a diesel.
@@NerdGenius this one just had a little bit of a rough idle, no odd noises
@@NerdGenius thats exactly what mines doing did u figure out what it was? Is it this ?^^
@@mahkirislebodnick9636 it’s the spool valve he is talking about.
I try to remove the valve but it's very hard, where do I make it loose? Or does it have a lock?
Doesn't have a lock. It's on tight but you can get it out with some screwdriver prying and wiggling persuasion.
Hello Sir,
I really like your vedios, its very helpfull, but i have a qustion. I have an Audi A6 2014 2.0 torbu and Ihave a problem that my car has a delay with first gear & retern (automatice gear) with cold start & blowing smoke from the exust
when I start moving slowly the car jumping needs to turns off
I went the service center they talled me I have a code P0011 so I have to change the intake camshaft and I know that they have no experiance to repair Audi cars
So please can you helpe me with that ? what i have to do?
I have a 2014 Audi A6 2.0T with 150K miles. I'm suffering of noticeable engine vibration from engine at Idle and when you shift it in reverse. I had a P0301 and P0300 code and it would go in to EPC mode. I replaced 4 Plugs, 4 Coils then removed Intake to clean Carbon Build Up with Walnuts, Replaced 4 Injectors and PCV Valve. I threw everything but the kitchen sink at it. Any suggestions?
Have you done a cylinder leak down test or compression testing? Seems like you have fixed almost everything except compression. Any oil burning or consumption? What did the plug look like for cylinder 1?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Plug looked BLack, loosing about 1/2qt every 6-7k Miles. Car doesn’t seem to lack any power. I did notice a bunch of crank case vacuum when I lift the oil cap and the RPM changes. So after I replaced the pcv valve I didn’t observe any change. I will inspect the motor mounts, maybe do a compression test.
@@ze_german2921 thanks so much for watching! Let us know how it goes for you.
If this problem. Spent a lot of money, couldn’t figure it out and sold the car off. I loved that car (2014 Accord).
Hi I'm working on getting mine cleaned in my 1.8t 04 jetta. I have it exposed and can rotate it (barely) about a 16th of an inch. Im scared muscling it out will cause damage. Is it normal to have to man handle a bit?
Make sure you are turning it to the right to loosen. It has reverse threads. It should have some tension, but once it moves, it should screw right out. Should have around the same feel as removing a spark plug.
I think I'm looking in the wrong place then.. I have a 1.8t vw
And I was looking under the camshaft position sensor and evidently its not there
@@suprakid182 I’m sorry I didn’t see this sooner, the 2004 model you have does not have this system on it. You most likely have an issue with the chain tensioner under the valve cover. These systems weren’t used until later on you car.
What is the tightening torque for the n205 valve and magnets?
Do you have to clean the valve before I put it in?
Hi , suddenly i had issues with same engine EA888 2.0 from S3 2015. It had idle misfires and i swaped magnets from a different vehicle and things got almost perfect , but still a little hiccups , maybe i will clean the valves also after installing the new magnest on both cams ? Or should i change something else (car has 38 000kms on clock so i guess injectors is impossible) New OEM plugs and coils.
I would pull the intake and inspect the valves for carbon build up. That’s a common problem for these as well. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB i also thought about the intake clog but car has only 38 000kms... so i think it should be ok there
i’m having the same issue, im gonna try this out but i have one question, do you have to drain the oil before removing the solenoid?
No oil drain necessary.
Hopefully, you can see this. I just replaced the sensor, magnet and filter. The codes clear but I’m still having a weird idle. It’s not as violent or causing the car to stall like it previously was but it’s still a weird idle every 10 seconds or so. Any ideas?
Is your throttle body cleaned? Also check for vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks before the front O2 sensor.
@@AutoScholarwithMrBhey thanks for the reply! So I got two things. One I now have a P2188 code (Running to rich at idle) and also the magnetic seems to be louder? I’m not sure if that’s because I’m focused on it or I did something wrong in installation. It almost sounds like that little pin in the magnet is hitting straight metal
Excelente explication!! Ça m'a beaucoup aidé. J'ai reparé mon vehicule a moindre frais. Merci
The French man
great video boss! thank you for your service
Also, would sea foam help loosen some of the potential debris? Btw I have a 2015 1.8 Jetta having the same issue
I would not use that, and it may make things worse due to loosening more debris that can get caught higher in the system. Routine oil changes with quality oil can help the most.
GREAT video on this. I have a rattle going on from the magnet and/or spool/oil control valve on my '15 Passat 1.8T that goes away when I unplug magnet. Question, can you run this engine without the oil control/spool valve installed? I was thinking of doing an engine flush and wouldn't want the new one in there when I run flush through the system. Also, do you recall the torque on the new oil control/spool valve? I subbed and liked btw!
I would not run the engine without the valve.
To remove the oil control valve do you have to remove the cover or can you just go right at it after removing the cam adjuster magnet
You can get it off without removing the cover, but I like to inspect the chain while I am in there.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I literally just changed my timing chain 2 weeks ago. I replaced the tensioner, guides and all so I just need to replace the magnet and the control valve, also thank you for the quick response
Thanks for watching, Albert!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB no problem I also gave that subscribe button a little tap too. Great video bud
@@alberth237 thanks and good luck with your repair.
I have a 2016 vw jetta 1.4 with a weird intermittent missfire and im wondering if this is my problem. No other codes just the misfire
I would check this and maybe see if your intake valves are dirty. That is also a common problem. Of course check plugs and coils too. Hope this helps!
This video just saved me a ton of money! Thank you!!!!
That’s what I like to hear Alex! Thanks for watching.
Could this cause a misfire in only one cylinder? I've done absolutely everything to this car spent probably 7k this year on diagnosing and repairs that won't get rid of a cylinder one misfire it only does it at idle
Doubtful it would cause one cylinder only.
can i just take that out with the tool? ( no need to take chain cover off ?)
No the cover does not have to come off for this
Thank you, thank you, thank you! And at the risk of repeating myself, thank you!!
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching.
What if i have p0011 and misfire codes to go with it? Does that mean its most likely a timing chain issue? Car was running perfect and then started chugging when i started it up this morning
Might be but I would try this first, hope it works for you
Hey Mr. B I got codes P000A/P000AP and P0011/P0011P. I went ahead and replaced the N205 valve solenoid but the CEL came back on. Car drives fine with no issues. What do you suggest for my next step? I didn't check the magnet piece so I'll do that next. What other steps do you suggest if that doesn't work?
carini20 make sure you are running a high quality oil and your oil pressure is correct.
Car Smarts with Mr. B I just changed the oil with the same oil I’ve changed my car as well as my wife’s Tiguan so I don’t think it’s the oil. How do I check the oil pressure? Do you happen to have a video that shows how to do that? Thanks!
carini20 I do not have a video on that, I will try to make one soon
What are the partnumbers for a vw golf 6 1.4 from 2011
This was quite informative. Thank you.
In my golf mk7 GTI , when I start it in the cold and the cold start sequence ends, I drive off and the car shakes for a little bit in first and second gear. Then , after 1 or 2 minutes it doesn’t do it anymore.
I have a manual gearbox. I
Could those parts cause this ? I don’t get any codes
That is hard to diagnose with no codes. Normally any issue with these parts will cause a code. Could it be a clutch issue?
Hi João did you maybe solve this problem? I have same situation on my Mk7.5 GTI 2017.
@@BARBAGT500 hi. i still haven't solved the issue. I'm going to do the ignition coils next. with the cold weather the coils could be acting funny i don't know. the car trows a code of cylinder deactivation ..
@@JoaoFerreira-qy2ki
I solved this problem. Mechanic replaced this complete valve which is shown on the video and now everything is.bavk to normal.
Try like this first
I didn't have any codes also but they pull it out VCDS scan
Hi Mr B.
I'm owner of 2014 Mk6 Jetta and after the oil change (Castrol Edge 5w40), my car started to fail when the engine temperature isn't at 90 degrees. But when I wait to the temperature are 90 deegrees, the car works fine.
The fail appears when I use the car with the temperature under 90 deegrees. In this case, after travel 1km, the engine sounds like if running at 3 cilynder, and after a few seconds, the car stops. After this secuence, the car turn on Ok.
I alredy changed the chain, the chain tensor, CMP sensor, Ignition Coils and I cleaned the Throttle body. But the problem pesists.
My question is, this cleaning or replacement, could fix my problem?
I appreciate much if you could help me.
I would definitely try this, let us know if it works.
I know this is 2+ years after the fact, but what was this jetta doing? What is running weird like a slow gallop or?
Just reduced power
I’ve been having this issue for months… I changed my oil to mobil1 0w40 and ever since switching grades for winter I haven’t had the issue. I’ve been running Castrol edge 5w40 or pennzoil euro 5w40…. Any idea what happened?
oil is too thick for the passages in the oil control valve possibly so it doesn't flow fast enough
I have a volkswagen beetle recently had an oil change like 5 days ago and yesterday P0011 code
If the oil weight and type are correct, I would try this.
Thanks for puttings this video together!
I'm getting the code P000A, shall I replace directly tensioner or this might also be causig the problem?
It could be, they had tensioner problems for sure, especially on the older ones. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB THank you for your fast repply. P000A could also fixed with your repair?
I had my chain changed 8000km ago, because of the well-known tensioner problems of those models (1.4 tsi 2007).
@@albertoc5427 it would be worth a shot
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you for your guidance.
Terrible experience so far with this engine!
I also have a short, my fuse F21 blows with sparks when I introduce the fuse. Also having error code P2262 /turbocharger) & P10AD. Not sure yet if it's because of the short or the short is due to a problem with the electromagnetic clutch of the water pump.
Great channel, already subscribed to learn more!
i have same code (p0011)on my passat cc 2012 1.8 tsi.engine shaking in idle.
i changed a cam adjuster magnet but problem still.
shud i change a solenoid?
please help..
Are there any other codes outside of the p0011?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB no. the only code is p0011
Dlko Dlshad make sure that piece beyond the magnet is clean, or you may even want to replace it. It normally isn’t that expensive.
i have the same problem as you dlko. 2014 vw passat, shakes during idle, p0011 code. i have been told that it could be the camshaft sensor, which is towards the front of the engine. i think i might try this first, and if it doesn't work then get a new sensor. let me know if you come up with anything
@@gabecampos7852scan ur car.if code was p0011 dont change cam shaft in front engine.iam changed it but problem still.iam changed magnet too.still problem!i think my problem is in solenoid
I have 2014 jetta se 1.8t. two code first one is p0341. And other p0016
What scan tool did you use? Thanks for the video
This is a Snap On Zeus in the video, but lower priced scan tools are fine for this as well. I just use this one because it has a large screen and is easy to video and teach with. I also have a Verus Pro, solus edge, and Autel Maxysis.
Are there torque specs for when screwing the valve back in?
Could not find the spec, I would just snug it up. Due to the rotation of the engine and that they are reverse thread, they won’t come loose. Thanks for watching!
25 ft lb
Is the issue normally the Spool Valve or the Magnetic Adjuster?
I’ve seen both, but normally the magnetic adjuster fails or get dirty more often.
I got this code and a parts store told me it was the vvt solenoid but there were 2. One by the oil pan and one somewhere else. Is this the non oil pan one? I can't find any info anywhere
The solenoid in this video is the only one I know.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you I will try this tomorrow.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB just wanted to say thank you, this was my issue. Ordered new parts and replaced them my self. Parts and tools were $100 total. Engine light went away almost instantly, passed smog. You're a money saver!
@@TheIdiotChallenege fantastic! Hearing things like this make it all worthwhile. Thanks for your support.
Could this relate to P0341 And Oil pressure light ?
Low oil pressure can cause this code for sure because the cam timing is run off of oil pressure.
Hello, I have a 2014 Jetta SE 1.8 tsi turbo. Cold start idle roughs, threw check engine light. Went and took it to be repaired. I was told it was the oil solenoid valve. They ordered the inner part and they went to put in and after 3 different parts that superceded the original won't fit. Supposedly the new part is smaller than the original so threads will seat into shaft. They removed the original valve cleaned and put back in. Drove it and is doing the same thing as original problem. Do you know if you have to replace camshaft to use the new parts or if there is a way to get the original part? Or should I just replace the magnetic part and see if it fixes the problem. Before taking it in originally I did remove the magnetic part and when I did the magnetic tip was hung up,sprayed cleaner in it and freed it up and replaced but problem still occurred. Could the magnetic part just be hanging from time to time. Kinda at a loss any help would be appreciated. Also I removed pwr to electromagnetic part and it seems to get better at idle. Thanks in advance.
What codes are you getting?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB , not 100% sure I know one was retarded camshaft. P0011 Also throw a misfire code, and not sure but sometimes not able to use cruise control after throwing the check engine,so thinking also transmission code. After they cleaned the inner oil valve, check engine light on but I am currently able to use cruise control.
@@robertemmons1811 those can have chain and tensioner issues as well as the adjuster issues. It is really hard to say without the car in front of me. Due to the temperature changing things, it may be an oil pressure issue. Make sure the oil is the correct weight and the pressures are within specification.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Have you ever heard of superceded parts not fitting to where the camshaft had to be replaced in order to use the new parts?
@@robertemmons1811 that’s a new one on me. I will try to contact a friend of mine tomorrow and ask.
Wait so I don’t need to replace my timing chain??? That’s what autozone said it was for lol
I look it up and it’s actually the variable valve timing. All I have to do is replace it?? I found a new one at pick a part for the 2008 vw Jetta
Well it is dependent on your situation. If you do this and it doesn’t work, the timing chain may need to be replaced. Thanks for watching!
Liked and subscribed I'm a mechanic but I'm 2010 and older lol I can do alot on 2010 and newer but not everything lol
Thanks for watching man! Yeah this new stuff is something else.
I want to replace the internal solonoid that you removed on my 2015 1.8T Jetta
Anybody know the part number?
Hi good video bud. Can I ask what torque spec these are to do back up?
The bolts holding the magnet are 4nm and 45 degrees. They are supposed to be one time use, but I had had no issue reusing. The piece further in? I cannot find any spec on it. I just cinch it up about the same tightness as an oil drain plug and have never had an issue out of one. Remember, the second piece is reverse thread!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks for these I just ordered the vag tool today so I'm doing this asap. Do they make a rattle at medium idle say 1500rpm when this gets stuck. I've heard of this being the issue. And lethargic to drive compared to normal?
@@davidkane9876 it depends how they hang up. Some will not give much issue and others will lope a little at idle. Let us know how the repair goes!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB lts a little hunty on idle at times but not all the time.
Will do buddy probably next week.
I bit the bullet and got a new valve also. Over here around 54gbp so not too expensive neither.
😊
I gatta try this , thank you !
Thanks for watching!
Great video, it helped me fix my issue,thank you so much.
Glad this helped you, and thanks so much for watching!
Hello i have a 2014 jetta with the 1.8t motor. Car runs good when not warmed up but after like 20 or 30 min it will have a hesitation around 1500rpm or when going uphills. changed plugs, coils, and fuel injector cleaning. Could this be my issue?
Normally if you have this issue you will have a code for it. Do you have any codes?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you for the reply no no codes driving me nuts
@Auto Scholar with Mr B Any idea of what i might look at next? Cam sensor?
@@james6386123 I would think anything like that would cause a code. How long has this been happening?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Just bought the car june 1st. 70k miles did not notice when i bought it. But now seems to be more noticeable. i took it on vacation and in the hills it has become very noticable.
Hey Mr. B, 2016 JETTA GLI here with 56k miles. P0011 code, car idles like crap and toys to stall at stops, then some times it runs perfect. If it was the timing chain wouldn't it run like crap all the time? I've replaced the camshaft position sensor. It took a week of running like that to finally throw a code. After I do your trick today if it still runs the same, what should I try next. OBDELEVEN is in the mail.
I would think if it was anything mechanical it would happen all the time. The car in this video actually ran fine, but still presented this code. I would try what I have done above and then see what happens. Have you done any recent mods or other things to the car?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB bought the car stock, 3 days after I had a stage 1+ flash tune by unitronics done, took a few days before I noticed a slight idle stumble after cold start settled down but would clear up with a rev. Few days later the issue slowly got worse. Now it will run fine one drive, and the next stumble and even die at complete stops. Everyone knows of the timing chain issues with this engine, just trying to avoid $1600 timing replacement. Im hearing the wrong oil could be a problem, the dealership was a used car lot, they said they replaced with what VW called for, not sure though.
@@illsmokq first order is an oil change. I have a video on this as well under the mk6 playlist that includes the oil I recommend.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB i really appreciate the quick replies! Thanks!
@@illsmokq no worries! I hope you get your issue resolved. Have a good new year.
Im currently having the same code P0011, i noticed the streams of the intake cam oil control valve are a bit damaged, can they be the ones causing the intake cam timing to over advance?
Yes, if it looks damaged, I would replace the whole valve.
Changed it no luck...now am getting P0341 for cam position sensor. Can you please tell me how to check if the cam gears (vanos) are damaged or worn
@@louwscustomsza what was the problem ?
@@Paty45er P0011 & P0341
I have the same codes
Did you find the reason?
Did u have a hard start?
This one did not, but I can see this problem causing a hard start
Do you have another link for the “special tool”? it says currently unavailable
Try this one Engine Timing Tool Kit ，Engine Camshaft Locking Alignment Timing Tool Kit for Audi VW Skoda VAG 1.8 2.0 TSI/TFSI EA888 T10352 T40196 T40271 T10368 T10354 with T10355 www.amazon.com/dp/B087CWJZYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M639ZRCYSSP18751CQT8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is there supposed to be oil behind the magnet?
Yes, it is a lubricated area.
Cheers
same for bts engine?
Same thing for a 06 Passat 2.0t ?
Is there a torque spec for reinstalling the valve/screen?
I could not find one, unfortunately.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thanks for the quick reply!
@@ninfelise no problem!
35Nm