I also went with Detroit TruTrac differentials front and rear in my '05 F-250 6.0. Really a great choice. With the 6spd manual I can just let her crawl out of almost any sand, snow or mud. The diffs always find traction. Nice videos with the details sir. Thanks.
Great video, I’m going to do my F250 after the new years. I’m thinking of doing 4.30’s since the truck lives with a landscaping trailer hooked to it and rarely runs around with nothing hooked. Do you guys have any experience with the 4.30’s and also have you done a video on the front axle? Thank you in advance and i appreciate all the videos!
Funny you ask about the front axle, we just finished video doing his front, I got rushed in the reassembly because I had to go rescue someone broke down, but I will edit it and get it posted soon. Thanks for watching.
Got a 05 f250 with the Truetrac rear end. Can you tell me why it’s locking in positive traction while towing my camper when I make a sharp turn at slow speeds? I get a violent popping while making the turn. Thanks for any info!
Try to remember good bearing handling practices. Leaving it on the ground and spinning it with your dirty hands is a great way to introduce contamination and ensure premature failure.
@@AutomedicGarage I've never done a rear before, but I do build multi million dollar jet engines for a living. Bearing handling is a huge thing. Bouts to do new gears and a trutrac in my f100. Besides the bearing handling, good video.
I do it because I feel like it’s the most accurate way to set everything up and checking backlash so that the inner pinion bearing has preload on it so that it has the small amount of resistance created from the crush sleeve. Not saying I’m right or wrong, just the way I’ve always done it and have yet to have a failure out of any I’ve built. Thanks for watching.
😩 damn I wish I live near you guys. I have a 2009 F150 and I just purchased some 38 inch tires and I want to put 488 gears I’m just hoping the 488 is the right decision with a true trac as well
So I went with 5.13 with the Truetrac waiting for everything to arrive. . And I’m just hoping everything works out with the Truetrac. Is there any noise turning corners or any noise at all?
@@johnnycortez46 if you don’t have 4.10s you got 3.73s. The 4.10 make the truck feel more peppy, and the truck will be happier when you do tow. To me 4.10s and 35s are a great combo. I can squeeze 21mpg out of my ole 7.3 if you drive it right on a road trip with the same combo.
Troy hasn’t gotten to use it off-road really since I still have to do the front diff in his truck to use 4wd but he has said in wet road conditions on laying it on hard on dry pavement the truck hooks good and leaves 2 solid marks on the road and doesn’t seem to be a harsh lock up but smooth. Hope that helps.
Nice vid .. love your 7.3 content . What size lift does troy have ?? What brand springs does he have in the front ?? Thanks .. keep the vids comin guys 🤙🏻
He has the rancho 3.5 leveling kit with 1” blocks and ad a leaf in the back that I put on when it was still my truck and running 35s. Thanks for watching pal
Pinion depth must be adjusted to achieve the proper gear mesh. High contact needs more pinion depth or low contact/root contact needs less and all that is determined when you check your gear pattern with the marking paint.
@@ruizg26 no I torque as if it’s the final install every time, I want to feel how the gears turn, measure the bearing preload which I go by feel and you don’t want any discrepancies with backlash or gear pattern from maybe a not fully seated bearing. I also make sure I have some oil on the bearing because it changes the feel and resistance vs a dry bearing.
I've seen some people use the old crush sleeve when checking the pinion depth. That method makes sense to me because the crush sleeve is only there to keep force against the nut so it doesn't back itself off over time. I like your suggestion of grinding the old pinion bearing race for clearance and using it as a setup bearing, however I would want to check how far the new bearing sits inside the new race and old race first to make sure it's exactly the same. Thanks for the video. I'm about to swap a Truetrac into my F250 to replace the Tracloc LSD that has been chattering and giving me problems because the carrier is grooved where the clutch ears contact it.
Yes, we just didn’t at the time because as mentioned at the end we were regearing for the trip to BTS so he could tune the trans with the 4.10 ration in mind.
@@AutomedicGarage what part number for the gears? I went to a shop here in Florida and they are trying to tell me I need to use Yukons 10.25” ring and pinion gear set along with the 10.25 master install kit. Only gear ratio I can find for 10.5” is 4.11. I really appreciate you guy’s channel and the quality of your videos
why are you putting shims under the pinion bearing race ? That's not where the shim goes. The pinion shim goes on the pinion gear under the pinion bearing.
From the factory 10.5s are set up with shins between the pinion head and the inner bearing, after market set ups such as nitro, Yukon etc sometimes come with both shins for between the pinion head and shins for the inner race or just shins for the inner race. I prefer the inner race shin set up, it’s easier for setup purposes than pressing the bearing back off the pinion for adjustment. They both have the same effect wether between the head and bearing or between the race and axle housing which is move the pinion closer to the ring gear. Look it up. Plus the shins that go between the head and bearing wouldn’t even fit right for going behind the race. The inner pinion bearing race is a different diameter than the carrier bearings or pinion shaft so this shows that that’s where these shims go. Thanks for watching.
@@kenthuntsingersr7501 yea I use the old race for setup purposes and grind down the outer seating surface some so you don’t have to beat it in and out until you have everything setup right, then once you know your shims are right install the new race. There’s usually no difference in your back lash or gear pattern or if there is it isn’t enough to matter. Makes things a lot easier I think. On a Dana 80 you can’t shim the pinion this way you have to press the inner bearing on and off and put the shims between it and the pinion and the Dana 80 or at least all that I have done don’t use a crush sleeve, you only use shims.
I also went with Detroit TruTrac differentials front and rear in my '05 F-250 6.0. Really a great choice. With the 6spd manual I can just let her crawl out of almost any sand, snow or mud. The diffs always find traction. Nice videos with the details sir. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I love what you fellas do thank you
Awesome video. I appreciate you showing the amount of time and effort it takes to get the preload, backlash, and pattern correct.
Takes patience and multiple attempts but I enjoy doing gears. Thanks for watching.
Gonna do that to my dodge with a Dana 80, it’s open now. Great job
It is a sexy rear end !!!
great video
Thanks bud
Lol. You always leave 2 loose bolts in the diff cover so it doesn’t get everywhere. Nicely done on tue gear swap
Yes sir, I don’t care for a gear oil bath. Thanks for watching.
Great video, I’m going to do my F250 after the new years. I’m thinking of doing 4.30’s since the truck lives with a landscaping trailer hooked to it and rarely runs around with nothing hooked. Do you guys have any experience with the 4.30’s and also have you done a video on the front axle? Thank you in advance and i appreciate all the videos!
Funny you ask about the front axle, we just finished video doing his front, I got rushed in the reassembly because I had to go rescue someone broke down, but I will edit it and get it posted soon. Thanks for watching.
Video of front end is up.
Got a 05 f250 with the Truetrac rear end. Can you tell me why it’s locking in positive traction while towing my camper when I make a sharp turn at slow speeds? I get a violent popping while making the turn. Thanks for any info!
What oil are you running
Try to remember good bearing handling practices. Leaving it on the ground and spinning it with your dirty hands is a great way to introduce contamination and ensure premature failure.
Ooook
@@AutomedicGarage
I've never done a rear before, but I do build multi million dollar jet engines for a living. Bearing handling is a huge thing. Bouts to do new gears and a trutrac in my f100. Besides the bearing handling, good video.
@@seethesvt I didn’t put anything dirty in that rear. It has 40k hard miles on it since then. No problems. Thanks
@@AutomedicGarage like I always say "shit happens when you fart naked."
Have you ever done a clutch pack replacement for a 1999 SD sterling 10 .50 LSD?
Yea, but it’s been a long time. Those clutches are pricey
Why use a new crush sleeve for setup? I thought you just used the old one or left it out and set preload by hand.
I do it because I feel like it’s the most accurate way to set everything up and checking backlash so that the inner pinion bearing has preload on it so that it has the small amount of resistance created from the crush sleeve. Not saying I’m right or wrong, just the way I’ve always done it and have yet to have a failure out of any I’ve built. Thanks for watching.
😩 damn I wish I live near you guys. I have a 2009 F150 and I just purchased some 38 inch tires and I want to put 488 gears I’m just hoping the 488 is the right decision with a true trac as well
4.88 should give you more than enough gear and you can’t go wrong with the truetrac. Thanks for watching
So I went with 5.13 with the Truetrac waiting for everything to arrive. . And I’m just hoping everything works out with the Truetrac. Is there any noise turning corners or any noise at all?
@@re9473 No feels not different than the factory LS other than it locks up better.
No noise at all from the Truetrac. It’s been working flawlessly.
What are the benefits from a stock rear end to 4:10 gears on a 2006 f250.?
I have a 4 inch lift with 35 tire. 20x12 wheel on my 2006.
@@johnnycortez46 if you don’t have 4.10s you got 3.73s. The 4.10 make the truck feel more peppy, and the truck will be happier when you do tow. To me 4.10s and 35s are a great combo. I can squeeze 21mpg out of my ole 7.3 if you drive it right on a road trip with the same combo.
@AutomedicGarage well that is some good information to know. Since yours is a 7.3 engine and mine is a 6.0 does that matter?
@@johnnycortez46 the 6.0 and the 5r110 combo are a little more forgiving for turning larger tires with no gear change.
@@AutomedicGarage Thank you for the input. Much appreciated
Can you provide more detail of how the truetrac performs? On road, off road and towing? Compared to the stick LSD? Would you recommend the truetrac?
Troy hasn’t gotten to use it off-road really since I still have to do the front diff in his truck to use 4wd but he has said in wet road conditions on laying it on hard on dry pavement the truck hooks good and leaves 2 solid marks on the road and doesn’t seem to be a harsh lock up but smooth. Hope that helps.
Truetrac’s only weakness is when a tire leaves the ground, and then all you have to do is drag the brakes and it’ll find traction.
Please help me out man I have a 250 ford just replace my diff to a dura grip and I put the tone ring on. But now I have no Speedo working
Did you completely seat the tone ring
Nice vid .. love your 7.3 content . What size lift does troy have ?? What brand springs does he have in the front ?? Thanks .. keep the vids comin guys 🤙🏻
He has the rancho 3.5 leveling kit with 1” blocks and ad a leaf in the back that I put on when it was still my truck and running 35s. Thanks for watching pal
Question. Why are you using multiple crush sleeves? Why not just set the pinion? And just remove the ring assembly?
Pinion depth must be adjusted to achieve the proper gear mesh. High contact needs more pinion depth or low contact/root contact needs less and all that is determined when you check your gear pattern with the marking paint.
@Automedic Garage ohhhhh so if that's the case you don't need to torque it down like other videos suggest???
@@ruizg26 no I torque as if it’s the final install every time, I want to feel how the gears turn, measure the bearing preload which I go by feel and you don’t want any discrepancies with backlash or gear pattern from maybe a not fully seated bearing. I also make sure I have some oil on the bearing because it changes the feel and resistance vs a dry bearing.
@@AutomedicGarage awesome info thank you for the feed back
I've seen some people use the old crush sleeve when checking the pinion depth. That method makes sense to me because the crush sleeve is only there to keep force against the nut so it doesn't back itself off over time. I like your suggestion of grinding the old pinion bearing race for clearance and using it as a setup bearing, however I would want to check how far the new bearing sits inside the new race and old race first to make sure it's exactly the same. Thanks for the video. I'm about to swap a Truetrac into my F250 to replace the Tracloc LSD that has been chattering and giving me problems because the carrier is grooved where the clutch ears contact it.
Great vid just subscribed. Could we get a update? Plus tell Troy to clean the inside of his truck😉
Update on the BTS trans getting installed or how the rear end is doing?
Don't have to change front gears to match ratio?
Yes, we just didn’t at the time because as mentioned at the end we were regearing for the trip to BTS so he could tune the trans with the 4.10 ration in mind.
How do you like the truetrac so far?
Troy loves it, was the first I’ve installed but I like it also.
@@AutomedicGarage I appreciate the video, looking into doing a truetrac for my 94 Cummins swapped ford
What size tires are you running for the 4.10’s?
35s. 4.10s and 35s are a perfect combo in my book for pulling and fuel mileage. I get 21 on the highway in my personal 7.3
@@AutomedicGarage what part number for the gears? I went to a shop here in Florida and they are trying to tell me I need to use Yukons 10.25” ring and pinion gear set along with the 10.25 master install kit. Only gear ratio I can find for 10.5” is 4.11.
I really appreciate you guy’s channel and the quality of your videos
@@johnthurmanmerman I’ll check with Troy on where he got them at. He bought it all from the same place.
@@johnthurmanmerman rvautoparts.com
why are you putting shims under the pinion bearing race ? That's not where the shim goes. The pinion shim goes on the pinion gear under the pinion bearing.
From the factory 10.5s are set up with shins between the pinion head and the inner bearing, after market set ups such as nitro, Yukon etc sometimes come with both shins for between the pinion head and shins for the inner race or just shins for the inner race. I prefer the inner race shin set up, it’s easier for setup purposes than pressing the bearing back off the pinion for adjustment. They both have the same effect wether between the head and bearing or between the race and axle housing which is move the pinion closer to the ring gear. Look it up. Plus the shins that go between the head and bearing wouldn’t even fit right for going behind the race. The inner pinion bearing race is a different diameter than the carrier bearings or pinion shaft so this shows that that’s where these shims go. Thanks for watching.
@@AutomedicGarage well then aftermarket is making it easier to set up then. Thanks.
@@kenthuntsingersr7501 wasn’t trying to sound like a jerk it does make it a lot easier.
@@AutomedicGarage Been a few years since I set up a Sterling rear. Guess this is something new for easier set up.
@@kenthuntsingersr7501 yea I use the old race for setup purposes and grind down the outer seating surface some so you don’t have to beat it in and out until you have everything setup right, then once you know your shims are right install the new race. There’s usually no difference in your back lash or gear pattern or if there is it isn’t enough to matter. Makes things a lot easier I think. On a Dana 80 you can’t shim the pinion this way you have to press the inner bearing on and off and put the shims between it and the pinion and the Dana 80 or at least all that I have done don’t use a crush sleeve, you only use shims.
First
Are you in jail again?
In jail again?