You have a great channel with the variety of subjects, including these classic sailing ship kits. I just got the Revell HMS Bounty as a result of your fantastic coverage. Lastly, your tutorials are well executed, you have a great rapport with your audience.
Your detailing and scratch build is awesome. Waiting for your next video on the painting the wood. Have a few models on hold till I can decide on a method. Great video.
Harry - That is a wonderful build and your painting is excellent! I built a wooden kit of a topsail schooner of that period back in the 70s. The structure was quite similar. Darn, but model ships are huge projects! At around 9:00 your point about the bow planks not matching left and right is understood. I have an interest in old naval architecture and have studied the hull construction of a few complete ships, as well as some wrecks and hulks of wooden vessels dating back to the 18th century and a few even before that. It might surprise some modelers, but the hull planks of wooden ships didn't always line up and fall into a totally symmetrical configuration. I don't have a good reason for things being built like that, but apparently having planks perfectly aligned was not always a goal of the builder. I suppose they were simply using up the materials they had on hand. It really is not unusual to have the hull planks mismatched in width. I've seen that done on larger wooden ships and things as small fishing boats, like dories. Clinker built hulls like those on Viking long boats might be different. Now, if you were building a 1/32 Mosquito kit I'd be more concerned. I wouldn't worry about your hull planks not lining up. They often didn't on the real originals.
I'm just surprised at how small a ship it must have been in real life. Anyway, well done! For me these days, half the fun of building is scratchbuilding my own corrections and extra detail.
It was a small merchant vessel before being moved to the Royal Navy, hence the HMAV, Her Majesties Armed Vessel... not considered a ship. I am getting more and more confident to scratch a better part with a build. In fact in Part 2 you’ll see a lot of bits I completely remade.
The real disadvantage of diving in to making wooden models compared to plastic apart from price (Dusek's La Real is £730) is lack of broad variety. As the wooden ship companies go bust, more and more it's down to the enthusiast to make their favourite ship from scratch. Then it becomes a second job. Cheers, Harry. Good job.
Thanks... surprisingly I found more subjects catered for in wood kits than plastic models. Most of the plastic moulds are old, with very few new sailing ship moulds these days. Yet I have been swamped with offers of wood kits to build.
Hey Harry, great to see you back you old Aussie Waffler!! You need to get yourself a new Razor saw bud.. like the JLC or the RB productions type. That saw you have there is for cutting battens in roofs!!
Well I was cutting wood ship posts, almost battens. LOL I will look into the ones you suggest... mine was a PE fret of blades I put on an old Exacto knife holder.
Hello Harry, I was told about your channel by Jim and come over to see the build on the Bounty. I have subscribed to your channel and will be catching up on your vids! Great video, I have this kit and when I get to building it I hope you don't mind me using some of your ideas, thanks for sharing!....Bill
Hi Harry, love your channel and your banter. Been getting back into modelling now that I've reached the age when I have more spare time on my hands. Currently building the Tamiya Panzer 38t but I have a variety of subjects in my little stash. Been looking to get into 'oldy worldy' ships and this looks like a good one to start with. The Airfix kit seems a bit hard to get. A local shop appears to have the Revell kit in stock for 10 of Queen Elizabeth's pounds. Gonna snaffle one up and follow your build. Happy modelling and best wishes from pommy land.
Thanks David… I did a full series on the Revell Bounty and my completed model turned out much better than had I expected from such a basic kit. But then all the scratch additions and detail work I put into it were really worth the effort. It’s a build I am very proud of and sits on display front and centre in my cabinet.
Beautiful work, thank you so much for doing this. Quick question: I'd really like to try and copy your paint scheme, but I don't have the ventilated space (or money) for an airbrush. Is that stynylrez yellow just a normal acrylic that can be applied with a brush? Or is there something close in a spray can you would recommend? Awesome channel!
Stynylrez is a polyurethane so can be hairy brushed on with a wet paint brush. It goes on quite well and will self level but of course you will never get the finish of an airbrushed surface. Before I had my airbrush I would put the base coat on with Tamiya Rattle cans. They are a lacquer, so best sprayed outside, but dry fast, self level and work fine as a base for most acrylic paints.
I do go through all my paints and colours in the rest of the videos. Mostly I used Lifecolor and Stynylrez, mixing my own custom hues to suit the model. The wood effects were done using the Lifecolor Acrylics LC-LP04 Liquid Pigment Hulls & Wooden Decks paint set.
Superb series of build videos for this ship. About to have a go myself. I understand she was copper bottomed and the metal would show little green oxidation below the waterline. What is the source for the white finish used here?
The HMAV Bounty was a merchant ship fitted out quickly by the Royal Navy to get breadfruit from the Pacific then deliver to their British colony in Jamacia as a cheap source of food for the slaves. It is doubtful the Royal Navy would have spent the huge amount of money and waited the extra time to have her copper plated. The white lead paint on her lower hull was anti fouling protection enough for a simple, or so they thought, mission like this. Although the Royal Navy started copper plating the hulls of their wooden warships from 1779 there is no direct evidence for the HMAV Bounty ever being plated. Even by the turn of the 19th century less than a third of English Merchant ships were copper plated.
What a great job you've done with this ship Harry! So far I can hardly tell it's made of plastic. The only thing I spotted was the trunnions need to be strapped down to the carriages, but hey who the hell am I anyway. Just another insufferable Yank. Cheers!!!
Thanks and yes the canons still need to be strapped in place, just dry fitted for now, but won’t do that until I’ve competed the hull detail painting then will set, rope and tie all deck items.
After further research I found you are absolutely correct. Either way they were incorrectly placed on the kit, as per the scale plans I am using as reference. Modern ships have the signal flags off the bridge which is these days forward. In the days of sail of course the ship was steered and captained from the aft and the signal flags were run up from that stern bridge position.
Lots of detail there. Looking good and looking forward to seeing your rigging. How do you spell your name? I heard you say it, but my hearing isn’t that good anymore. Happy days and model on! 😎
HI HARRY IM ENJOYING THE BUILD GOING TO LOOK GREAT WHEN FINISHED. ONE QUEARY THO HARRY ONLINE PLANKING ABOVE WATERLINE IS SHOWN TO BE BLUE OR SORT OF A BLUEY COLOUR. EVEN REPLICA SHOWS IT.
You must be referring to the 1st replica built for Hollywood in 1962 which was much larger than the real Bounty, to help shooting deck scenes, and wildly inaccurate. The second replica build in New Zealand in 1979 was used in Australia’s bicentennial celebrations and was as close to the real Bounty as possible. It had the varnished wood sides with blue top trim as was the fashion of the day. The ships were repainted constantly so even the real Bounty changed it’s livery over it’s lifetime. By the way ALL CAPS IS SHOUTING and considered fairly rude when texting.
hi Harry many thanks for reply. I honestly didnt know all caps was shouting as i dont know what that means. I use all caps because my eye site is shit. Im sorry if i offended you and others ive text in caps to.
You are talking about the 1962 Hollywood ship which was much bigger than the real Bounty, so they could shoot the deck scenes more easily, but was wildly inaccurate. I’m doing my Bounty like the 1979 New Zealand built replica, used in our Australian bicentennial celebrations, which was the correct size and as close as possible to the original HMAV Bounty
Hi Richard. I simply scraped and filled those marks, then rescribed the planks. Once you get the deck furniture onto the ship, and a wood effect wash, then you can’t even tell I did it.
I sold about 6 kits to clean out the stash and anyway this was bought with left over money from my UA-cam revenue. So both of those conditions gave me loopholes for replacing kits taken from stash or using money surplus to my budget. Just ask my accountant Bask the Cat.
Hi Harry, I'm your new follower, I'm building the same model at this time. I working in some upgrades that I would like to share with you. 1st: A natural wooden deck laser cutted for better result. I can share with you the cad files and some images of how to do them because the result its really good. 2. A new system for the deadeyes, the plastic ones that came with the model are really poor. 3. A more complex and acurate rigging, instead of the basic proposed for the kit. 4. Some details added with copper wire to add more details. I will follow your updates, It is hard to find someone with your skills building these kind of models, ship model makers use to work on wood kits, and plastic model makers with good skils in photoetch, painting and modeling in plastic use to work on 1/350 battleships or 1/48 tanks and jets. Let me know, Regards, Jorge.
Although I do use wood veneer decks in my 1:350 ships, for this simple build I wanted to do the wood effects at the much larger scale by hand painting. I also have comprehensive rigging diagrams as well. Built many wood and plastic sailing ships when I was younger. Enjoying building them again now.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Your skills are really good at modeling and painting, so your model will look awesome. I'm looking forward to your updates. Regards
Thanks.. hopefully you have followed the next 3 updates with more scratch improvements. I’ve also ditched the plastic pulleys and will replace with wood ones from a model boat store. I did manage to find a comprehensive rigging guide for square rigged sailing ships. Happy to share it with you if you contact me privately here or on Facebook.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Hi Harry! Thank you for your answer. I use to work with the rigging plans of hismodel. I will put the link in a new coment because maybe could be a problem with youtube's spam policy. If you have any additional information I would grate you to share it with me, but in any case, your videos are really instructfull and informative, ande are helping me a lot with my job. And I will placefully follow all your updates. Thank you very much
You can buy it. www.amazon.com/Armed-Transport-Bounty-Anatomy-Ship/dp/087021280X/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=the+armed+transport+bounty&qid=1596050257&sr=8-1
Your "waffle" for those who are concentrated carries a lot of information and i learn a lot with it. Looking forward part II
Waffle is my superpower! Thanks
I hadn't realised how small it was until I saw your hand next to it. All the more impressive now, Harry! :)
...that's what she said!
@@HarryHoudiniModels :D
This and the St. Louis are two of my favorite builds. Thank you for posting.
Glad you liked it Richard
You have a great channel with the variety of subjects, including these classic sailing ship kits. I just got the Revell HMS Bounty as a result of your fantastic coverage. Lastly, your tutorials are well executed, you have a great rapport with your audience.
Thanks very much for your kind words… it encourages me to keep going with the channel.
Hello from Colombia!!! My 6 years old son is fascinated with your video. You did a great job!!! The ship is amazing!!!
Awesome! Thank you!
Your detailing and scratch build is awesome. Waiting for your next video on the painting the wood. Have a few models on hold till I can decide
on a method. Great video.
Thanks matey.. video out later this week
Bloody fantastic Harry. Great to see you at the bench again
Thanks Les... good to be back
I’ve been following your build on Facebook and have enjoyed your updates! Looking forward to your next video!
Thanks John.. it will be out in a few days
Incredibly interesting videos and great work....thank you! I had The Bounty Airfix kit as a kid.
Thanks.. The Airfix kit already has most of the scratch additions I chose to make for the Revell one. But enjoyed the challenge of improving it.
Harry - That is a wonderful build and your painting is excellent! I built a wooden kit of a topsail schooner of that period back in the 70s. The structure was quite similar. Darn, but model ships are huge projects!
At around 9:00 your point about the bow planks not matching left and right is understood. I have an interest in old naval architecture and have studied the hull construction of a few complete ships, as well as some wrecks and hulks of wooden vessels dating back to the 18th century and a few even before that.
It might surprise some modelers, but the hull planks of wooden ships didn't always line up and fall into a totally symmetrical configuration. I don't have a good reason for things being built like that, but apparently having planks perfectly aligned was not always a goal of the builder. I suppose they were simply using up the materials they had on hand. It really is not unusual to have the hull planks mismatched in width. I've seen that done on larger wooden ships and things as small fishing boats, like dories. Clinker built hulls like those on Viking long boats might be different.
Now, if you were building a 1/32 Mosquito kit I'd be more concerned. I wouldn't worry about your hull planks not lining up. They often didn't on the real originals.
Yes they are a lot more work, but I like that.
Great Paint Job....Love it !
Thank you! Cheers!
looking forward to the next video.superp job well done
Thanks Thomas
Cool Looking build! The bounty is looking amazing 😉
Thanks matey... more to come.
Harry Houdini Models Looking forward to it 😊
I am gonna copy your build.. its just wonderful!
Thanks matey... go for it.
Awesome work mate looks good as always till next time mate
Thanks Rat!
Great video Harry, thank you matey
Thanks Andy
Stunning work arry !!!!!!
Thanks Motty
Nice video Harry. Looking forward to the next one.
Need to find the Mel Gibson film and give it a watch!! Great work so far. As usual.
It’s called “The Bounty” and here in Oz is streamed on Stan
I'm just surprised at how small a ship it must have been in real life.
Anyway, well done! For me these days, half the fun of building is scratchbuilding my own corrections and extra detail.
It was a small merchant vessel before being moved to the Royal Navy, hence the HMAV, Her Majesties Armed Vessel... not considered a ship. I am getting more and more confident to scratch a better part with a build. In fact in Part 2 you’ll see a lot of bits I completely remade.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Thanks. Entertaining AND educational!
You obviously haven’t seen my videos with banjo playing LOL
@@HarryHoudiniModels Only by reputation. :)
Nice work
Mercy mon sewer canard
The real disadvantage of diving in to making wooden models compared to plastic apart from price (Dusek's La Real is £730) is lack of broad variety. As the wooden ship companies go bust, more and more it's down to the enthusiast to make their favourite ship from scratch. Then it becomes a second job. Cheers, Harry. Good job.
Thanks... surprisingly I found more subjects catered for in wood kits than plastic models. Most of the plastic moulds are old, with very few new sailing ship moulds these days. Yet I have been swamped with offers of wood kits to build.
Hey Harry, great to see you back you old Aussie Waffler!! You need to get yourself a new Razor saw bud.. like the JLC or the RB productions type. That saw you have there is for cutting battens in roofs!!
Well I was cutting wood ship posts, almost battens. LOL I will look into the ones you suggest... mine was a PE fret of blades I put on an old Exacto knife holder.
Hello Harry, I was told about your channel by Jim and come over to see the build on the Bounty. I have subscribed to your channel and will be catching up on your vids! Great video, I have this kit and when I get to building it I hope you don't mind me using some of your ideas, thanks for sharing!....Bill
Steal away... my videos are for just that... to give you ideas of your own
Hi Harry, love your channel and your banter. Been getting back into modelling now that I've reached the age when I have more spare time on my hands. Currently building the Tamiya Panzer 38t but I have a variety of subjects in my little stash. Been looking to get into 'oldy worldy' ships and this looks like a good one to start with. The Airfix kit seems a bit hard to get. A local shop appears to have the Revell kit in stock for 10 of Queen Elizabeth's pounds. Gonna snaffle one up and follow your build. Happy modelling and best wishes from pommy land.
Thanks David… I did a full series on the Revell Bounty and my completed model turned out much better than had I expected from such a basic kit. But then all the scratch additions and detail work I put into it were really worth the effort. It’s a build I am very proud of and sits on display front and centre in my cabinet.
very nice
Thanks
Harry!!!! How the hell are you my friend? Really great looking ship. Cant wait for the next vid.
I’m good thanks Ron. Finally settling in here in Brisbane. Next video out this week.
Beautiful work, thank you so much for doing this. Quick question: I'd really like to try and copy your paint scheme, but I don't have the ventilated space (or money) for an airbrush. Is that stynylrez yellow just a normal acrylic that can be applied with a brush? Or is there something close in a spray can you would recommend? Awesome channel!
Stynylrez is a polyurethane so can be hairy brushed on with a wet paint brush. It goes on quite well and will self level but of course you will never get the finish of an airbrushed surface. Before I had my airbrush I would put the base coat on with Tamiya Rattle cans. They are a lacquer, so best sprayed outside, but dry fast, self level and work fine as a base for most acrylic paints.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Thanks for the help. It looks like Tamiya has a nice dark yellow that is close to the color you used. Cheers!
Can i ask what paint colors you used? It looks very authentic wood style and would like to copy the paint scheme you have done if possible.
I do go through all my paints and colours in the rest of the videos. Mostly I used Lifecolor and Stynylrez, mixing my own custom hues to suit the model. The wood effects were done using the Lifecolor Acrylics LC-LP04 Liquid Pigment Hulls & Wooden Decks paint set.
Superb series of build videos for this ship. About to have a go myself. I understand she was copper bottomed and the metal would show little green oxidation below the waterline. What is the source for the white finish used here?
The HMAV Bounty was a merchant ship fitted out quickly by the Royal Navy to get breadfruit from the Pacific then deliver to their British colony in Jamacia as a cheap source of food for the slaves. It is doubtful the Royal Navy would have spent the huge amount of money and waited the extra time to have her copper plated. The white lead paint on her lower hull was anti fouling protection enough for a simple, or so they thought, mission like this. Although the Royal Navy started copper plating the hulls of their wooden warships from 1779 there is no direct evidence for the HMAV Bounty ever being plated. Even by the turn of the 19th century less than a third of English Merchant ships were copper plated.
What a great job you've done with this ship Harry! So far I can hardly tell it's made of plastic. The only thing I spotted was the trunnions need to be strapped down to the carriages, but hey who the hell am I anyway. Just another insufferable Yank. Cheers!!!
Thanks and yes the canons still need to be strapped in place, just dry fitted for now, but won’t do that until I’ve competed the hull detail painting then will set, rope and tie all deck items.
Harry aren’t those pieces you were referring to about the rat lines etc belaying pin locations for tying off the running rigging of the ship?
At the 9 minute mark I mean.
After further research I found you are absolutely correct. Either way they were incorrectly placed on the kit, as per the scale plans I am using as reference. Modern ships have the signal flags off the bridge which is these days forward. In the days of sail of course the ship was steered and captained from the aft and the signal flags were run up from that stern bridge position.
hi harry!! quick question, did you hand paint the blue
Yes. My own mix of Lifecolor. I think I discuss that in Part 2.
Lots of detail there. Looking good and looking forward to seeing your rigging. How do you spell your name? I heard you say it, but my hearing isn’t that good anymore. Happy days and model on! 😎
It’s the name of the channel: Harry Houdini
@@HarryHoudiniModels cool Harry! Just sounded like something else, my hearing and sight are getting worse. Happy days and model on! 😎
Not much waffeling this new video either... :( Lol Great build!
I will try to do better....
Very nice, how did you paint the ship sides to look like real wood?
I show the wood effects in the next video Part 2
HI HARRY IM ENJOYING THE BUILD GOING TO LOOK GREAT WHEN FINISHED. ONE QUEARY THO HARRY ONLINE PLANKING ABOVE WATERLINE IS SHOWN TO BE BLUE OR SORT OF A BLUEY COLOUR. EVEN REPLICA SHOWS IT.
You must be referring to the 1st replica built for Hollywood in 1962 which was much larger than the real Bounty, to help shooting deck scenes, and wildly inaccurate. The second replica build in New Zealand in 1979 was used in Australia’s bicentennial celebrations and was as close to the real Bounty as possible. It had the varnished wood sides with blue top trim as was the fashion of the day. The ships were repainted constantly so even the real Bounty changed it’s livery over it’s lifetime. By the way ALL CAPS IS SHOUTING and considered fairly rude when texting.
hi Harry many thanks for reply. I honestly didnt know all caps was shouting as i dont know what that means. I use all caps because my eye site is shit. Im sorry if i offended you and others ive text in caps to.
Sorry to hear about your eyes... not offended... just like to let people know what ALL CAPS usually means in text chat.
Since 2012 the replica sunk off the coast of North Carolina during hurricane Sandy
You are talking about the 1962 Hollywood ship which was much bigger than the real Bounty, so they could shoot the deck scenes more easily, but was wildly inaccurate. I’m doing my Bounty like the 1979 New Zealand built replica, used in our Australian bicentennial celebrations, which was the correct size and as close as possible to the original HMAV Bounty
But nice build
Thanks
Your welcome
is it wood or plastic?
It’s the Revell 1:110 Plastic kit. I did the wood effects with Lifecolor paints.
@@HarryHoudiniModels yay^^
How did you eliminate the pin marks and the Copy Right that are located on the deck?
Hi Richard. I simply scraped and filled those marks, then rescribed the planks. Once you get the deck furniture onto the ship, and a wood effect wash, then you can’t even tell I did it.
👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻😍😎
:)
Harry what happened to no more new kits?
I sold about 6 kits to clean out the stash and anyway this was bought with left over money from my UA-cam revenue. So both of those conditions gave me loopholes for replacing kits taken from stash or using money surplus to my budget. Just ask my accountant Bask the Cat.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Bask the cat should be a lawyer finding all these loopholes.
She is an amazing cat!
Hi Harry, I'm your new follower, I'm building the same model at this time. I working in some upgrades that I would like to share with you.
1st: A natural wooden deck laser cutted for better result. I can share with you the cad files and some images of how to do them because the result its really good.
2. A new system for the deadeyes, the plastic ones that came with the model are really poor.
3. A more complex and acurate rigging, instead of the basic proposed for the kit.
4. Some details added with copper wire to add more details.
I will follow your updates, It is hard to find someone with your skills building these kind of models, ship model makers use to work on wood kits, and plastic model makers with good skils in photoetch, painting and modeling in plastic use to work on 1/350 battleships or 1/48 tanks and jets.
Let me know, Regards, Jorge.
Although I do use wood veneer decks in my 1:350 ships, for this simple build I wanted to do the wood effects at the much larger scale by hand painting. I also have comprehensive rigging diagrams as well. Built many wood and plastic sailing ships when I was younger. Enjoying building them again now.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Your skills are really good at modeling and painting, so your model will look awesome. I'm looking forward to your updates. Regards
Thanks.. hopefully you have followed the next 3 updates with more scratch improvements. I’ve also ditched the plastic pulleys and will replace with wood ones from a model boat store. I did manage to find a comprehensive rigging guide for square rigged sailing ships. Happy to share it with you if you contact me privately here or on Facebook.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Hi Harry! Thank you for your answer. I use to work with the rigging plans of hismodel. I will put the link in a new coment because maybe could be a problem with youtube's spam policy. If you have any additional information I would grate you to share it with me, but in any case, your videos are really instructfull and informative, ande are helping me a lot with my job. And I will placefully follow all your updates. Thank you very much
www.hismodel.com/bounty-19
Vous pouvez m'envoyer ces plans
You can buy it. www.amazon.com/Armed-Transport-Bounty-Anatomy-Ship/dp/087021280X/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=the+armed+transport+bounty&qid=1596050257&sr=8-1
First!
LOL nope you got pipped by an Aussie.... now you will have to write something else with a bit more panache!
Beat by an Aussie! Kind of like when my fellow Canuck got tripped up by the Korean speedskater and the Aussie hopped over them to win the gold!
That's Australian ingenuity for you... never let an opportunity pass you by... or as we would say "suffer in ya jocks mate"
Click go the shears!