Dead point is something else at least from what I know. Deadpointing is the technique where you move in a more dynamic motion towards the next hold and right at the apex where you are about to fall down again you grab onto the next hold. Therefore you using the whole momentum to get somewhere while being efficient. I commonly use this technique on a slab for example where I need to step up onto a foothold and right where I am about to lose balance or moving away from the wall I am trying to grab the next hold, per say right at the dead point of the move Hope it helps :)
I always thought Dry Firing was from archery, where you draw and fire a bow without an arrow knocked. It’s known to be bad for the bow, as it is pretty bad for your tendons when it happens. It makes sense as usually the motion of dry firing off a crimp is very similar to pulling a string of a bow without an arrow.
Being from Texas, I've always heard it in terms of guns, but the same idea: Firing the weapon without ammunition. I always wondered why it was used as it is in climbing. The archery aspect makes it make much more sense.
I’d also add that a pretty bad “dry fire” can also feel like a fire on the part of the skin that violently slipped. I never made the connection with archery and guns before, I always assumed that it was related to the skin sensation.
Dry firing is just the act of firing something (gun, bow, etc) without actually firing the projectile. So in climbing, you're essentially loading yourself up to make a move and the force of your grip snaps off the hold and you go norwhere and fall backwards. I'm assuming it could reference the sound of your fingers snapping together, sort of like the snapping of a bow string or a gun hammer hitting the firing pin.
Thanks for this Hannah!! I'm an experienced yogi but recently took up bouldering - the jargon has been really annoying me as nobody breaks it down so well! Thank you. Love your channel!❤
I’ve only started bouldering since the end of March of this year…. I’m still a noob & I’ve definitely heard a lot of these terms & I’m just like “O_O lol what?” Hahaha so thanks for making this video
Would you really say dabs are more common in outdoor climbing? I feel like they're much more common in indoor climbing. In outdoor climbing there's only so much you can dab and it's usually pretty out of the way. In indoor navigating around different colored holds or accidentally setting your foot on the wrong foothold seems much much much more common to me.
I guess I had thought about dabs on pads and spotters rather than wrong coloured holds or parts of the wall that weren’t part of the route! Absolutely right that dabbing on the wrong hold isn’t really an issue in outdoor bouldering!
Yes, some routes are set so close together, or if a foot hold it set under a sloper it can be easy to miss the hold you should use. I only started back in July so I'm still bumping along the bottom on levels 1 & 2. The fear factor is still strong.
Thanks for the video. The explanation for beta was very interesting, and I learned a good few terms I hadn't heard or didn't understand. Your videos are very helpful to me as a newbie (started climbing in July this year and am well and truly bitten by the bug).
@@hannahmorrisbouldering spent my teen years doing martial arts. Lots of movements that build the same muscles as what you use for a toe hook. Plus I got long femurs so my heel hook muscles have to exert more force to move my leg that way.
It always bothers me when I know how a term is used but not where it actually comes from. Had that for the longest time with the term "morpho" - until I recently realized it's because those moves are dependent on the morphology of the climber. Just thought I'd add that in case I'm not the only one who wondered ☺
We have some chickenheads in our gym, I believe. Weird to grip indeed those things 😂 And the explanation for beta was so cool, now the term makes so much more sense! Thanks for that!
Way to make mountains out of mole hills! Not sure if you found everything but that new intro is slick and the production quality is up. Looks/sounds phenomenal!
“Dry fire” comes from a shooting term where the gun isn’t loaded when you think it is and when you pull the trigger, nothing happens. Dry fire. Translated to climbing: getting ready to send the boulder and coming clean off the holds before you really get started. Dry fire 😊
Yo my gym is literally littered with thumbercling topouts right now and it took this video for me to realize it. And to realize how it is a move I really only do indoors. I think it just feels little fancy and unique, fools you into thinking that maybe you have like technique or smth because you are doing this weird thumb pressing upwards thing aye :D
Thats been very interesting. I have heard many of these but never realised what they were. I'll have to try the 'elimate' on some climbs, thats a good idea for training. One i've never worked out is when someone refers to a 'tufer'?? I've certainly heard the likes of Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi say it in their youtube videos.
I was confused about Tufa's for the longest time! Still kind of am, but as far as I know, a tufa is a kind of rock formation that juts out in a vertical long pinch. Usually like a wide pinchy rib of rock. Really hard to find the words haha!
You still get flappers? I never had them after filing down my callouses (with the electronic device, maybe once every three days?). Do you still get them after you do?
I’m so bad with skincare and maintenance it’s embarrassing! I never file down my callouses despite saying to myself every session I really should file that down! 😅
An onsight is when you have no prior knowledge of the route/boulder. A flash is when you do. (You've seen video, others climb, people are spraying beta at you, etc.) This is generally why you only "flash" boulders, because they are so arbitrary someone often has to tell you where they start and end, sometimes which holds are on/off. (E.g. a boulder problem might not allow use of an arete.)
Been watching your videos for a while and as a headphone user I would say the quality of your videos would greatly increase if you remove some of the white noise with a low-pass filter. A little audio engineering would go a long way. Cheers!
@@mochipoyo Deadpointing is an advanced technique used for controlled dynamic movements where you're generating momentum towards your target and then waiting until that brief moment before gravity takes you to grab your hold. Like when throwing a ball up in the air it comes to a stop at its apex (deadpoint) and then begins to fall back down. Grabbing the hold at that instant gives you the best chance of sticking it, and is most efficient as you are not wasting energy controlling excess momentum. It comes in handy in a variety of scenarios- such as sticking big moves to the edge of your reach (where Hannah had heard it), making dynamic moves to extremely small holds, or saving yourself in dire scenarios by sucking your hips in to the wall and bumping your hand to that next bomber hold in the brief window of "weightlessness".
I've been climbing for 4 years and still am learning so much watching this. I swear it never ends hahahahaha. That's a really cool fact about "beta"
Dead point is something else at least from what I know.
Deadpointing is the technique where you move in a more dynamic motion towards the next hold and right at the apex where you are about to fall down again you grab onto the next hold. Therefore you using the whole momentum to get somewhere while being efficient.
I commonly use this technique on a slab for example where I need to step up onto a foothold and right where I am about to lose balance or moving away from the wall I am trying to grab the next hold, per say right at the dead point of the move
Hope it helps :)
Loved this one. Thanks so much Hannah for providing the best climbing content on YT.
Thank you Jacob! Means a lot to me
I always thought Dry Firing was from archery, where you draw and fire a bow without an arrow knocked. It’s known to be bad for the bow, as it is pretty bad for your tendons when it happens.
It makes sense as usually the motion of dry firing off a crimp is very similar to pulling a string of a bow without an arrow.
That makes sense! Definitely feels pretty terrible for your tendons and joints when you fire off a hold! 😫
Being from Texas, I've always heard it in terms of guns, but the same idea: Firing the weapon without ammunition. I always wondered why it was used as it is in climbing. The archery aspect makes it make much more sense.
This
I’d also add that a pretty bad “dry fire” can also feel like a fire on the part of the skin that violently slipped. I never made the connection with archery and guns before, I always assumed that it was related to the skin sensation.
Dry firing is just the act of firing something (gun, bow, etc) without actually firing the projectile. So in climbing, you're essentially loading yourself up to make a move and the force of your grip snaps off the hold and you go norwhere and fall backwards. I'm assuming it could reference the sound of your fingers snapping together, sort of like the snapping of a bow string or a gun hammer hitting the firing pin.
Thanks for this Hannah!! I'm an experienced yogi but recently took up bouldering - the jargon has been really annoying me as nobody breaks it down so well! Thank you. Love your channel!❤
Glad you enjoy the channel 🤗
I’ve only started bouldering since the end of March of this year…. I’m still a noob & I’ve definitely heard a lot of these terms & I’m just like “O_O lol what?” Hahaha so thanks for making this video
I still don’t understand half of the terms climbers use hehe! 🥳
Great video! I've always known deadpoint to mean something else though
Glad you liked it! Yep, that's my bad, turns out I've been using deadpoint incorrectly for my whole climbing life haha.
@@hannahmorrisbouldering happens to the best of us :)
That's a really excellent poster image, it captures the feeling of climbing slab very well
Confusion and fear 🤓
Would you really say dabs are more common in outdoor climbing? I feel like they're much more common in indoor climbing. In outdoor climbing there's only so much you can dab and it's usually pretty out of the way. In indoor navigating around different colored holds or accidentally setting your foot on the wrong foothold seems much much much more common to me.
I guess I had thought about dabs on pads and spotters rather than wrong coloured holds or parts of the wall that weren’t part of the route! Absolutely right that dabbing on the wrong hold isn’t really an issue in outdoor bouldering!
Yes, some routes are set so close together, or if a foot hold it set under a sloper it can be easy to miss the hold you should use.
I only started back in July so I'm still bumping along the bottom on levels 1 & 2. The fear factor is still strong.
Thanks for the video. The explanation for beta was very interesting, and I learned a good few terms I hadn't heard or didn't understand. Your videos are very helpful to me as a newbie (started climbing in July this year and am well and truly bitten by the bug).
Nice. Quite a few I had not heard before.
I find toe hooks easier than heel hooks. I use them much more frequently.
Interesting! I always find heel hooks easier - I need to practice my toe hooks more!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering spent my teen years doing martial arts. Lots of movements that build the same muscles as what you use for a toe hook. Plus I got long femurs so my heel hook muscles have to exert more force to move my leg that way.
You, good sir, are an extremely rare breed!
"Would whip... except never because I'm scared of everything" 🤣
It always bothers me when I know how a term is used but not where it actually comes from. Had that for the longest time with the term "morpho" - until I recently realized it's because those moves are dependent on the morphology of the climber. Just thought I'd add that in case I'm not the only one who wondered ☺
Super interesting! Hadn't know that so it is really interesting, and makes sense once you think about it! :)
We have some chickenheads in our gym, I believe. Weird to grip indeed those things 😂 And the explanation for beta was so cool, now the term makes so much more sense! Thanks for that!
It was just a cool little bit of information - hadn’t really ever considered why it was called ‘Beta’ before!
Way to make mountains out of mole hills! Not sure if you found everything but that new intro is slick and the production quality is up. Looks/sounds phenomenal!
The video i needed thank you
“Dry fire” comes from a shooting term where the gun isn’t loaded when you think it is and when you pull the trigger, nothing happens. Dry fire. Translated to climbing: getting ready to send the boulder and coming clean off the holds before you really get started. Dry fire 😊
Yo my gym is literally littered with thumbercling topouts right now and it took this video for me to realize it. And to realize how it is a move I really only do indoors. I think it just feels little fancy and unique, fools you into thinking that maybe you have like technique or smth because you are doing this weird thumb pressing upwards thing aye :D
They feel pretty insecure, but super cool! Always love a good move that gives the illusion of technique hehe
Thats been very interesting. I have heard many of these but never realised what they were. I'll have to try the 'elimate' on some climbs, thats a good idea for training. One i've never worked out is when someone refers to a 'tufer'?? I've certainly heard the likes of Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi say it in their youtube videos.
I was confused about Tufa's for the longest time! Still kind of am, but as far as I know, a tufa is a kind of rock formation that juts out in a vertical long pinch. Usually like a wide pinchy rib of rock. Really hard to find the words haha!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I think i know what you mean. Really awkward to hold on to! You've done a good job explaining 😁
You still get flappers? I never had them after filing down my callouses (with the electronic device, maybe once every three days?). Do you still get them after you do?
I’m so bad with skincare and maintenance it’s embarrassing! I never file down my callouses despite saying to myself every session I really should file that down! 😅
Interesting video, I learned a few new words. And I love the fun fact about “beta”.
Cool huh! I’d never really considered the origins. 😎
What's the difference between a onsight and flash.
An onsight is when you have no prior knowledge of the route/boulder. A flash is when you do. (You've seen video, others climb, people are spraying beta at you, etc.) This is generally why you only "flash" boulders, because they are so arbitrary someone often has to tell you where they start and end, sometimes which holds are on/off. (E.g. a boulder problem might not allow use of an arete.)
Good content as always now l will know what you and Nathan are talking about when your here
Time stamps! Also dry-firing is a reference to testing firearms without them being loaded.
What about onsight?
Learning learning learning :D
Now 'Teenage Dirtbag' is climbing playlist worthy.
I've been lucky enough to not experience a flapper yet. I suspect keeping my calluses thin and flexible has helped.
That is lucky! Wish I could join you on that one. 😎
Been watching your videos for a while and as a headphone user I would say the quality of your videos would greatly increase if you remove some of the white noise with a low-pass filter. A little audio engineering would go a long way. Cheers!
Noted! This video was posted a couple of years ago so hopefully things have improved since then ☺️
Should have kept Beta until last. 👍
I always thought it was Beta as it came after Alpha (figuring the route out)
Ahhhh that would make sense too!
That's why it should be called Baytah instead of Beetah because it came from Betamax. /s
Well technically it comes from the Greek letter so it should be pronounced "veeta" lol.
it IS baytah!
Bee tah. Haha. Accents are funny. Bay tah is the “right” way. Gawwwwd
And probably feel free to creat your owns 😂
This video is bomber...
Im pretty sure you got the “deadpoint” wrong… 39/40 right is still impressive haha
You’re right! Add that to the list of climbing terms I have been using incorrectly for years 🤣🤣
What is it?
@@mochipoyo Deadpointing is an advanced technique used for controlled dynamic movements where you're generating momentum towards your target and then waiting until that brief moment before gravity takes you to grab your hold. Like when throwing a ball up in the air it comes to a stop at its apex (deadpoint) and then begins to fall back down. Grabbing the hold at that instant gives you the best chance of sticking it, and is most efficient as you are not wasting energy controlling excess momentum. It comes in handy in a variety of scenarios- such as sticking big moves to the edge of your reach (where Hannah had heard it), making dynamic moves to extremely small holds, or saving yourself in dire scenarios by sucking your hips in to the wall and bumping your hand to that next bomber hold in the brief window of "weightlessness".
Gonna tell my parents that when i grow up, i want to be a dirtbag ._.
Haha yeeeeea! 😅
Her English is not easy to understand because of the background noise.
Que?
Trying our best to find a filming space that gives us more control over the ambient sound, but it’s quite tough!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Lavalier mic instead of your mic that’s grabbing the fan sound. Or grab in Audacity and delete that specific sound
I don't think there was a single word I couldn't make out, seems fine to me
@@b0604 You are a native speaker. I am not. But I have no problems to understand English audio books, radio, news...