Q&A SERIES / How to prevent cracking and dry wooden bowls
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- Опубліковано 28 кві 2023
- This will be short Q&A about how I go about preventing cracks and drying process 🤗
Enjoy
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Great video.I wouldn't have thought to turn them if they start cracking. I found out the reason I lost so many out of the oak was I was sloppy and didn't turn them to an even thickness. The bottoms split where they were thicker than the sides. I'll be taking more care in the future.
That could be reason as well.... I ussually turn them thinner to the bottom and still only plum is throuble👍only 50% of bowls plum survived.... But next time I'll probably turn them all thin and let them do its thing 🤗 thank you very much for watching
Thanks for the video Tomislav.
No problem, thank you for watching 🤗
I feel a lot better now that I see you are also having problems with Plum! 😎
There is still some of it left and the trick seems to be to leave it in a bag for well over a year.
Never got the time or space for that ,so now I just watch them more closely and finish turn them thinner and let it warp.... Looks even better in my opinion...so win win ☺️
great video
Thank you Mark very much 🤗
Heliotropism is perhaps the key to understanding better how the slipts happen.
👍
Great advice - thank you!
Glad to help out 🤗 thank you for watching
I just turned some plum blank, but one part of the log was too rotten to make a blank out of it (the rot went much deeper than I expected). So I turned that one into a really thin bowl instead, and immediately finished it with oil. Some of my blanks started cracking already, but the thin turned one didn't, it just warped a bit. It's too thin to fix the warping, but the bit of warping is more than compensated for by the beautiful texture of the wood. It is very spalted (that is very normal when it's so close to actually rotten wood), so it almost looks like a piece of red rock with veins. Yes, it wobbles a little, but it ended up more as a piece of art than a bowl to put stuff in, so I think I got lucky. I don't think it finished warping yet, but because it is so thin, that should be within a month now.
So, that may be something to experiment with: if you know a wood cracks easy, and you have a big log, try to also make one or two really thin bowls out of it, and see how the wood works. I'm sure it's different for every species, so success will vary, but it will give some experience for that type of wood at least. Especially if you find a piece as rotten as the one I had (gladly, it was only the bottom 50 centimeters of the log that was rotten so bad), it's the only thing that could be done with it. Generally, the further away you stay from the pith, the less it will warp, but it will always warp. Maybe next time I find a big log of plum, I'll saw it into quarters instead of halves, and make some much smaller bowls or cups or something like that, just to see how that works out.
My habit is always to turn few thin bowls from new log, that way I can predict how the bowls will act.... You'll see more on new 4 ways🤗
I made a lot of thin bowls, and never had one split.... Thin one dry out fast and its flexible enough to not stress the grain and split....
All the good advices from you and better explained then my rudimental English 😅
In beginners series I'll go more in depth on drying as we will rough turn bowl as well.....
Thank you very much for watching and comment 😀
Thank you for watching
3:20 How many percent is the ideal humidity of the room for drying the wood slowly enough?
3:40 What paint do you use? Is it food safe?
I don't know about ideal humidity and temp but when the wood is wet then you want the room to have more humidity like 60 or more persent, and relative low temp.
As wood dries then idealy you would lower humidity and raise temp to bring wood moisture around 10%
I once turn all of my bowls. Much less cracking that way. Turn them down to about 1/4 inch thick. MY favorite is Pacific Madrone. It cuts like green pear or dogwood, so very smooth and even grain. Due to high water content, it warps more than anything I have ever seen. I could boil it, but that is too much work, and I don't like what it does to the colors in the wood. I did find that I got less cracking if I got a tree with the spring sap running. More cracking if I got a mid or late summer piece. I still can't tell what it will do as it dries. I can take a cored set and they all warp some what differently. Plum, well, it does like to crack.
Thank you sir for your input😉 I ussually twice turned bowls as I have quite good persantage bowls without cracks, around 97-98% but woods like plum I'll keep my eye on (sometimes I forgot) if they start to do something funny,then I'll turn them thin and ussually get rid of all cracks.... But this more common woods I don't have to turn them thin to avoid splits....
Thank you very much for comment,it will help someone to deal with cracks prone woods☺️
Fino ti polica izgleda.
Hvala🤗
When you seal your bowls do you do the whole thing or just the end grain
If I seal then I seal everything, had a good luck like that
Great video 👍😊
Thank you very much
🕶
😎
Really helpful video. When you want to re-turn the bowl do you start by putting the foot in the jaws or place the rim in the bowl to reshape the foot and then put the foot in the chuck and work from that?
I have several videos with how I do it ,feel free to watch but I ussually just put a tenon in chuck and put a little shoulder inside a bowl where I can expand the jawa into and then have all the outside exposed to do what ever I like😀
Доброго вечера, Томислав. Если можно - маленький совет. Что бы меньше трескалось я вешаю шторку из плёнки. Сохнет медленнее и трещин меньше. А сливу сушить только в пеньках. Пробовал по всякому - трескается. В пеньках трещины появляются только в 10%. Спасибо за видео.
Plum in logs dry very bad,like cherry...that is atleast plum that I have.... So I process them as soon as I can.... I'm not too worried about that as the rest of bowls are drying really nice.... 🤗 But certain someone will benefith from your advice so thank you very much for comment 😀
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning Да, конечно. У каждого свои технологии, свои привычки. И все мы берём друг от друга лучшее и приемлемое для себя
@@user-bv1sl3bp5rnice said🤗
Pozdrav, odličan video i vrlo edukativan.... Ja koristim parnu rernu, staju oko 4 do 5 činija, odmah nakon prve obrade... Kasnije uvijen u strec foliju i pustim mesec dana bez otvaranja... Merim vlagu cesto, pri dnu i po obodu... Uspeva za mene al ne uvek... Kad hoce da pukne, ona pukne... Ili je vec imala nevidljivu pukotinu... Pozdrav i svako dobro, samo napred.
Hvala puno... Svako se prilagodi i nade neku svoju metodu, 100 nacina za jednu stvar sto je super 🤗 hvala puno na gledanju😀
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning hvala vama na vremenu za odgovor, inace radim tek godinu dana, al mi entuzijazam ne opada... Bio sam masinac, sad se bavim drvetom, tako da sam sebi pravim masine. Veoma lep zanat, ili umetnost... Nikad mi nije dosta... Pozdrav
Cracked bowls can still be used…don’t burn them. You can make a bird feeder (which sells) big bowl on top connected to small bowl with branch/turned. I usually turn a water drip slot on top bowl rim and round off the foot on both bowls.
Good idea👍
Yes fill the cracks with epoxy maybe?
@@trentgay3437 I really don't like epoxy😅
@tomislavtomasicwoodturning in that case, there's a stabilizing treatment called pentacryl. for treating wet wood to prevent cracking/warping as it drys. It's not cheap, though.
@@trentgay3437 thanks for suggestion but considering the time behind that and its just a bowl, it is pretty pattern but for me atleast not much of payout ....