Today i diasembled my extruder because the extruder motor couldn`t push the filament it anymore so I thought the theeth which grab the filament, were gone bad. But today i wanted to install the new parts, i saw that my hotend was blocked up because my PTEF tube were melted. And there was a gap between the nossle and and zhe hose where the PTEF tube sits. You helped me alot with your vid. Kow i have to order a capricorn tube.
you are welcome , a trick : ask in the local facebook groups, people tend to keep old pieces of PTFE tube, when it gets too short when performing service on bowden type 3D printers, you know people cut the bed end off, and installing it again, after 2-3 times, it is too short, and they need a new one.
didn't end up using your tutorial but it was helpful to see it taken apart and the heat gun idea helped. I'm only using PLA so a hair dryer was enough. Thanks man 👌
Tak Thomas. Lige hvad jeg havde brug for. Har netop modtager to sidewinders, den ene print pænt, den anden har helt sikkert problemet at med tube ikke slutter tæt til nozzle. Takker 👍
I have an SWX1, purchased in 2019. It printed great right out of the box. Any jam that occurred when I first got it was fixed in less than a day or so. Recently I had an extruder error which was caused by the heater cartridge. I replaced that along with two cables and two boards that became questionable after inspection. From that I started experiencing the same type of jam you show in this video. I have tried, with limited success, to fix this jam. I get to work for awhile and the it comes back. What is strange is that I am getting a near perfect 1st layer, but when the part fan kicks on the 2nd layer does not go down properly. The extruder will partially extrude and then at some point stop all together. At the end of the throat, just before entering the nozzle the PTFE swells up and I get a 3 to 4mm section that is larger than the rest of the PFTE. I have only seen the spinning top section once when tearing the hotend down to unjam it. This has been going on for about two months now. I have gotten the printer to print almost a whole roll of filament once, and right at the end of the roll it started up again. I am still idle at this time, trying to figure out what else to do that I have not done to correct this issue. I just ordered a couple of parts for the extruder, the front plate and the slide in throat. I am not sure if this will help to cure this problem, but at least it is something I can try. I have even taken a relooked at my slicer (S3D) and a couple of other ones. The same results regardless of the slicer I am using. I will go back and reassess my problem using your suggestions on my X1.
I got it to work for a while. At this time I have changed out to a new reel of filament and the temperature has been changed for it. I am working on getting it dialed back in. Life is happening and its taking me some time to work it out. In most cases it will be the feedrate and hotend temp that is going to cause, in my opinion, the biggest issues. Fix those items and you should be okay.
see this video, the first 2 sek, show the two holes into the set screws, loosen them, and it can go out, if stuck you should heat up, stuck can mean plastic in parts where it should not be.
My heart and keeps wiggling it doesn't stay in there good I've changed my thermostat twice and it still says that it is a 150 c but I can raise it up and it goes all the way up to 270 but it doesn't go lower than 240 250
I am having a similar problem, i have tried cutting a new PTFE a few times. The last time i took it apart the clog was under a half milimeter. But i am thinking this is down to me not being able to cut the PTFE straight enough. A sidenote: How hot is the heatsink with the fan suppossed to get? Mine seems to be about handwarm, at most?
@@TeardownOZ2CPU I just had a conversation with the shop i buy filament from (3deksperten.dk), and he advised me to use the heatbreak as a template. Just take the heatbreak of, slide the PTFE through and cut along the top of the heatbreak. Also the PTFE i used was some cheap generic stuff from amazon. I just ordered som capricorn to see if that will make a difference
How did you get the assembly out of the Sidewinder? I have a V4 which has gotten a loading problem, where it will pull filament in, but then stop loading unless I manage to push it through, I’ve checked the drive gear and arm, they seem fine, so my next thing to check is the PtFE tube, but I cannot get it out to the way you had it at the start of the video.
pull the whole extruder assembly apart, and you get the soft plastic part out the extruder, that hold the ptfe, if you got stock filament in there, with a bend milled down top, you can not pull out the ptfe.
Thomas Scherrer I guess I’m missing something here. How do you get that assembly out of its mount on the plate inside the Sidewinder? That’s the part I can’t get. It won’t pull out at all.
I'm sure you know this by now but there are two tiny screws that tighten the heatbreak cylinder inside the back plate. You just need to loosen them up with the smallest allen key in the kit that comes with the printer. It's easy to miss, I know I did.
Latest update : I have done this a few times, and came up with 47.5mm total ptfe length needed.
I used the 47.5 but it was still too long, I had to cut it shorter. But the video is very helpful, thank you!
@@legomandalore1770 i forgot to measure lol, i just cut it same length as old one
Today i diasembled my extruder because the extruder motor couldn`t push the filament it anymore so I thought the theeth which grab the filament, were gone bad. But today i wanted to install the new parts, i saw that my hotend was blocked up because my PTEF tube were melted. And there was a gap between the nossle and and zhe hose where the PTEF tube sits. You helped me alot with your vid. Kow i have to order a capricorn tube.
you are welcome , a trick : ask in the local facebook groups, people tend to keep old pieces of PTFE tube, when it gets too short when performing service on bowden type 3D printers, you know people cut the bed end off, and installing it again, after 2-3 times, it is too short, and they need a new one.
didn't end up using your tutorial but it was helpful to see it taken apart and the heat gun idea helped. I'm only using PLA so a hair dryer was enough. Thanks man 👌
Tak Thomas. Lige hvad jeg havde brug for.
Har netop modtager to sidewinders, den ene print pænt, den anden har helt sikkert problemet at med tube ikke slutter tæt til nozzle. Takker 👍
I have the same clogging issue. Now I know how to fix it, thank you.
I have an SWX1, purchased in 2019. It printed great right out of the box. Any jam that occurred when I first got it was fixed in less than a day or so. Recently I had an extruder error which was caused by the heater cartridge. I replaced that along with two cables and two boards that became questionable after inspection. From that I started experiencing the same type of jam you show in this video. I have tried, with limited success, to fix this jam. I get to work for awhile and the it comes back. What is strange is that I am getting a near perfect 1st layer, but when the part fan kicks on the 2nd layer does not go down properly. The extruder will partially extrude and then at some point stop all together. At the end of the throat, just before entering the nozzle the PTFE swells up and I get a 3 to 4mm section that is larger than the rest of the PFTE. I have only seen the spinning top section once when tearing the hotend down to unjam it. This has been going on for about two months now. I have gotten the printer to print almost a whole roll of filament once, and right at the end of the roll it started up again. I am still idle at this time, trying to figure out what else to do that I have not done to correct this issue. I just ordered a couple of parts for the extruder, the front plate and the slide in throat. I am not sure if this will help to cure this problem, but at least it is something I can try. I have even taken a relooked at my slicer (S3D) and a couple of other ones. The same results regardless of the slicer I am using. I will go back and reassess my problem using your suggestions on my X1.
Did you ever get this fixed? I am having the same problem. I can go through about half a roll, but then it starts under extruding
I got it to work for a while. At this time I have changed out to a new reel of filament and the temperature has been changed for it. I am working on getting it dialed back in. Life is happening and its taking me some time to work it out. In most cases it will be the feedrate and hotend temp that is going to cause, in my opinion, the biggest issues. Fix those items and you should be okay.
Hi, can I ask you how you removed that piece of iron on which the hotend screws? My belief is stuck, should it be removed while hot? Thank you.
see this video, the first 2 sek, show the two holes into the set screws, loosen them, and it can go out, if stuck you should heat up, stuck can mean plastic in parts where it should not be.
@@TeardownOZ2CPU thank you very much, really
My 2020 V4 SWX1 came with an extra tube...it measured 45.8mm and fit perfectly. Just replaced it.
Hi, i´ve found one the metal wires from the block cut, how can I replace it or install it again ? i see i can´t be soldered. Thanks!
My 3d printer artillery sidewinder x1 . 3d printer running time filament blacked nozzle. But printer conditions running. How to issue clear..pls help
Thank you for the great video, explained the process nice and slow, is there a good method for cutting the tube square with the knife.
Thank you for that good video. I hope that will solve my stringing issues. 🙋🏼♂️
Thank you. Very well explain!
good we can see all the assembly step by step and not magically ready and fit mounted
I'm struggling to remove the PTFE tube. Is Bowden tube the same material?
yes
not for beginners, im confused how to put the parts together and back to the sidewinder :-(
Does any kind of PTFE tube work? I have some of the white looking one
i suggest to use the highest possible temperature capeabilities, this way it last longest possible
isn't that heat break attached to a heatsink somewhere?
the video starts where the heatsink and fan is removed, no need to show that, since it is very clear to people who own this type of printer
@@TeardownOZ2CPU I've got the x2, I'm here on this video to get clarity!
Well in my case i have leaking issues. I haven't followed the video yet. Ill try this tutorial also.
if you are having leaking issues, it is not assembled correctly, brass part must be visible distance from alu block, and must be tight, while very hot
Where do I get the same plastic piece with the same diameter?
My heart and keeps wiggling it doesn't stay in there good I've changed my thermostat twice and it still says that it is a 150 c but I can raise it up and it goes all the way up to 270 but it doesn't go lower than 240 250
for artillery printer support, join the facebook groups they have made for this, this is the fastest way to help
Thanks for video, mines an X1 but its the same configuration as the genius
I am having a similar problem, i have tried cutting a new PTFE a few times. The last time i took it apart the clog was under a half milimeter. But i am thinking this is down to me not being able to cut the PTFE straight enough.
A sidenote: How hot is the heatsink with the fan suppossed to get? Mine seems to be about handwarm, at most?
you can find cutting tools at thingiverse, it is VERY important to cut it straight, the idea is not to leak material,
@@TeardownOZ2CPU I just had a conversation with the shop i buy filament from (3deksperten.dk), and he advised me to use the heatbreak as a template. Just take the heatbreak of, slide the PTFE through and cut along the top of the heatbreak. Also the PTFE i used was some cheap generic stuff from amazon. I just ordered som capricorn to see if that will make a difference
How did you get the assembly out of the Sidewinder? I have a V4 which has gotten a loading problem, where it will pull filament in, but then stop loading unless I manage to push it through, I’ve checked the drive gear and arm, they seem fine, so my next thing to check is the PtFE tube, but I cannot get it out to the way you had it at the start of the video.
pull the whole extruder assembly apart, and you get the soft plastic part out the extruder, that hold the ptfe, if you got stock filament in there, with a bend milled down top, you can not pull out the ptfe.
Thomas Scherrer I guess I’m missing something here. How do you get that assembly out of its mount on the plate inside the Sidewinder? That’s the part I can’t get. It won’t pull out at all.
@@jendantes the secret is behind the heatsink, remove that and the screw heads you need are revealed
@@jendantes im sure u solved this by now but x1 sidewinder v4s heatsink doesnt come off the tiny screws are there tho xD
Præcis det jeg ledte efter vil gå i gang med det samme..
How did you remove the slotted heatbreak?
I'm sure you know this by now but there are two tiny screws that tighten the heatbreak cylinder inside the back plate. You just need to loosen them up with the smallest allen key in the kit that comes with the printer. It's easy to miss, I know I did.
How did you remove the ptfe tube from 1:45 to 1:50?
heat it up a bit, use a lighter carefully on the metal part, just to about 200C, then it can be pulled out easy,
Thank you !
thank you ..
I like your video but you edited too much the video and we can't not see the step by step the whole thing. 👎👎👎👀👀😱😱😔