I just purchased the same radio set up for my EF Extra. I'm brand new to FRsky, the initial set up was pretty easy but struggling to learn the intricate bits of programming. Nice to see you using the TDR 18 and TDMX, I was considering a power box but decided the 18 was robust enough. I love the quality of the radio, coming from JR.
Thank you Juan, i have two stumbling blocks, i am amazed at how easy the initial setup was using a new operating system, but there are some things That i find a little difficult, first the use of port one for the tdmx messes with the channel assignments, so when I changed channel one aileron to channel nine, but doesn't talk to the transmitter, laying in bed last night I think I figured out why, the channel assignments are hard wired, but I think you can switch this off in the system set up, haven't tried it, maybe you could say how yo did it with the tdmx, secondly struggling with an ignition cut switch. Most of the tutorials are by guys who don't understand gas planes, and are not clear to my pea brain. I'm trying to use a free mix and a two position switch with curves, maybe it's too much to ask here. Just a couple hints would be great, i don't expect a full tutorial 😊 thanks.
I'm not home right now, but will take a look at the TDMX setup and get back to you. It might be worth doing a video about this setup too, as I think it's going to be a pretty typical setup for 100cc type planes. For the ignition cut switch, what are you specifically trying to do? Are you talking about a low/high idle? or an actual ignition switch in its own channel? For the ignition switch, I just have a channel with a basic free mix, controlled by a 2 position switch and assigned to a channel that I connect the ignition switch to. The default +/100% values on each end work well. I assume you're trying to accomplish something different than this?
@@skyboundrc yes I agree the TDR18 plus the TDMX seems a good set up, a lot of guys are using it in lieu of power boxes, a video would be good for everyone. I solved my problem this morning, i unlocked the hard wired channel assignments and moved to channel 10 for the first aileron servo, for some reason that works. Re: ignition kill, not throttle cut or idle down, I want to do the same as you what was preventing me was the same issue as above, once I unlocked the channel assignments the ignition light ( tech aero) went on. Now I'll go back and fiddle around with the free mix again, should work hopefully. Love to see your tdmx solution too . Thanks for all your help to the hobby. Love your interviews. Especially liked to see Gernot B., i net him when he was a small boy in 1998, with his father, I used to import his big sailplanes 20 plus years ago. Have a happy new year!
I will try! In the meantime, I highly suggest this video. It explains everything I do pretty well ua-cam.com/video/zv6068T_80E/v-deo.htmlsi=f0f8bfBQpoqrfHHb
Thanks for the info. One other question when putting in the aileron control horns it looks like the inboard and out board are the same length, I know a some other manufacturers have different lengths for each since the thickness of the wing changes. Did you have any issues with setting them up with the same length control horns?
Thank you for taking the time to do this, I've enjoyed all 3 videos! Are you happy with your PVC build stands? Are they 1-1/2" PVC? (I tried to zoom in on them to see) Also, can I ask what size dowel you're using for the spar tube on the stand? I have the same Laser coming next week and none of my equipment will support an airframe this large.
Hi! I’m actually about to do a video about the stand. In the meantime, yeah, 1.5” PVC. The dowel is 1.25” diameter (slightly smaller than the actual wing tube)
I haven't used loctite in the stab screws. I use some rubber washers (I forget if they came with the plane kit or I added them on my own) that keep the whole thing tight. Every time I disassemble, the bolts are as tight as I left them, so no concerns there. If you want, you could always add the tiniest amount of blue loctite for extra peace of mind.
Nice video, do you balance the two elevator servos with endpoints and curves in the FrSky ? I don't think I've ever seen an Frsky video on that with the new Ethos system.
hi! I try to get the geometry as close as possible on both servos as close as possible first. After that, I tweak endpoints in the Outputs menu. That usually is all I need (that's what I did with this plane). If the geometry is really off for some reason, and elevators don't match in between endpoints or the two aileron servos are fighting, then I would use a curve in the outputs menu for one of those servos, add a few intermediate points until things match well.
Juan first of all congrats on you for this brilliant vlogs and thanx for them ! my first question on it witch kill switch model do you take and do you use a ignition battery or you take the power out of you're two receiver batts?
Hi! Thanks for the nice words :-) I've been using the Tec Aero IBEC: techaero.net/product/ultra-ibec/ I know there have been supply issues lately though. I think that other IBECs like the Booma RC (www.boomarc.com/en/ibec-ignition-kill-switch) or the AJ Aircraft one (www.aj-aircraft.com/Ignition-Kill-Switch-IBEC_c_136.html) do the same thing. I'd just buy whichever one you can find in stock. With the IBEC, you get the ability of using it as a kill switch (turn ignition on and off) and is powered from the receiver batteries, so there's no need for an additional ignition battery.
second question is as I would you I use frsky like you and I am super happy with them! for my servo setup I normally use hitec servos - no I will try the frsky xact line wat do you think about them typ I am looking for is BLS 5403 H at 7V - 43 kg - 0,09 s
hi! The BLS5403H would work well. My personal recommendation would be: - Ailerons: BLS5403H - Elevators and Rudder: BLS5404H. This is because the ailerons have 2 servos per surface and the speed is usually a bit more critical there (for example, in snap rolls).
ok thanx that's a pretty good idea do you think that's a super good choice ? or should I spend my money to another brand I have no idea how that servos work ! next question is gp. 123 oder / da 120 and with reso ( we have noice limits in my club and in Europe)
Hi, thanks for your cool videos and short but full of tip build videos, I've learned a lot from them, But I have another question, Is there any way to contact you, like instagram or telegram? Thanks.
I just purchased the same radio set up for my EF Extra. I'm brand new to FRsky, the initial set up was pretty easy but struggling to learn the intricate bits of programming. Nice to see you using the TDR 18 and TDMX, I was considering a power box but decided the 18 was robust enough. I love the quality of the radio, coming from JR.
Let me know if you have any specific questions around the programming :-)
Thank you Juan, i have two stumbling blocks, i am amazed at how easy the initial setup was using a new operating system, but there are some things That i find a little difficult, first the use of port one for the tdmx messes with the channel assignments, so when I changed channel one aileron to channel nine, but doesn't talk to the transmitter, laying in bed last night I think I figured out why, the channel assignments are hard wired, but I think you can switch this off in the system set up, haven't tried it, maybe you could say how yo did it with the tdmx,
secondly struggling with an ignition cut switch. Most of the tutorials are by guys who don't understand gas planes, and are not clear to my pea brain. I'm trying to use a free mix and a two position switch with curves, maybe it's too much to ask here. Just a couple hints would be great, i don't expect a full tutorial 😊 thanks.
I'm not home right now, but will take a look at the TDMX setup and get back to you. It might be worth doing a video about this setup too, as I think it's going to be a pretty typical setup for 100cc type planes.
For the ignition cut switch, what are you specifically trying to do? Are you talking about a low/high idle? or an actual ignition switch in its own channel? For the ignition switch, I just have a channel with a basic free mix, controlled by a 2 position switch and assigned to a channel that I connect the ignition switch to. The default +/100% values on each end work well. I assume you're trying to accomplish something different than this?
@@skyboundrc yes I agree the TDR18 plus the TDMX seems a good set up, a lot of guys are using it in lieu of power boxes, a video would be good for everyone. I solved my problem this morning, i unlocked the hard wired channel assignments and moved to channel 10 for the first aileron servo, for some reason that works.
Re: ignition kill, not throttle cut or idle down, I want to do the same as you what was preventing me was the same issue as above, once I unlocked the channel assignments the ignition light ( tech aero) went on. Now I'll go back and fiddle around with the free mix again, should work hopefully. Love to see your tdmx solution too . Thanks for all your help to the hobby. Love your interviews. Especially liked to see Gernot B., i net him when he was a small boy in 1998, with his father, I used to import his big sailplanes 20 plus years ago. Have a happy new year!
yeah, that's what I do. I reassign the ch1 to a different pin. I'm glad you got it working. Happy new year!
Nice plane.👍🏻
Thanks! 👍 It is awesome :-)
Thank's!
👍👍👍
Great video! I was wondering if you could do a video on how to setup the throttle servo to give a third throttle at 50% stick? Cheers!
I will try! In the meantime, I highly suggest this video. It explains everything I do pretty well ua-cam.com/video/zv6068T_80E/v-deo.htmlsi=f0f8bfBQpoqrfHHb
Thanks for the info.
One other question when putting in the aileron control horns it looks like the inboard and out board are the same length, I know a some other manufacturers have different lengths for each since the thickness of the wing changes. Did you have any issues with setting them up with the same length control horns?
Great video !
Is there a possibility to share the 3D Modell (.stl file) of the Cooling-Lip on the underside ?
thanks! I actually don't have the file. I just ordered it printed from here: morganscustom3dprinting.com/product/low-pressure-lip/
Thank you for taking the time to do this, I've enjoyed all 3 videos! Are you happy with your PVC build stands? Are they 1-1/2" PVC? (I tried to zoom in on them to see) Also, can I ask what size dowel you're using for the spar tube on the stand? I have the same Laser coming next week and none of my equipment will support an airframe this large.
Hi! I’m actually about to do a video about the stand. In the meantime, yeah, 1.5” PVC. The dowel is 1.25” diameter (slightly smaller than the actual wing tube)
And yeah, it is awesome!
@@skyboundrc Lol. Well hurry up my plane is here Monday! 🤣
@@skyboundrc Thanks Juan! (for others interested) ua-cam.com/video/m43U0V2LHXk/v-deo.html
Hi, Did you put any Loctite on the stab screws if not any issues with them coming lose. I don't take my stabs off should I use Loctite?
I haven't used loctite in the stab screws. I use some rubber washers (I forget if they came with the plane kit or I added them on my own) that keep the whole thing tight. Every time I disassemble, the bolts are as tight as I left them, so no concerns there.
If you want, you could always add the tiniest amount of blue loctite for extra peace of mind.
Nice video, do you balance the two elevator servos with endpoints and curves in the FrSky ? I don't think I've ever seen an Frsky video on that with the new Ethos system.
hi! I try to get the geometry as close as possible on both servos as close as possible first. After that, I tweak endpoints in the Outputs menu. That usually is all I need (that's what I did with this plane). If the geometry is really off for some reason, and elevators don't match in between endpoints or the two aileron servos are fighting, then I would use a curve in the outputs menu for one of those servos, add a few intermediate points until things match well.
Excellent thank you@@skyboundrc
Juan first of all congrats on you for this brilliant vlogs and thanx for them !
my first question on it witch kill switch model do you take and do you use a ignition battery or you take the power out of you're two receiver batts?
Hi! Thanks for the nice words :-)
I've been using the Tec Aero IBEC: techaero.net/product/ultra-ibec/ I know there have been supply issues lately though. I think that other IBECs like the Booma RC (www.boomarc.com/en/ibec-ignition-kill-switch) or the AJ Aircraft one (www.aj-aircraft.com/Ignition-Kill-Switch-IBEC_c_136.html) do the same thing. I'd just buy whichever one you can find in stock.
With the IBEC, you get the ability of using it as a kill switch (turn ignition on and off) and is powered from the receiver batteries, so there's no need for an additional ignition battery.
@@skyboundrc on my shop I can find som AJ IBEC thanx supergood :-)
Who makes those muffler exhaust plugs?
Ordered here: morganscustom3dprinting.com/product/muffler-caps-with-flag/
Hi Juan, let me ask you a question, is the TD R10 enough for a plane like this? Thks
I would not recommend a TDR10 for this type of plane without using some kind of power distribution board.
Can this be bought in the USA? I can’t find it
Definitely! tailslideaviation.com/pilot-rc-laser-103-v3.html
second question is as I would you I use frsky like you and I am super happy with them! for my servo setup I normally use hitec servos - no I will try the frsky xact line wat do you think about them typ I am looking for is BLS 5403 H at 7V - 43 kg - 0,09 s
hi! The BLS5403H would work well. My personal recommendation would be:
- Ailerons: BLS5403H
- Elevators and Rudder: BLS5404H.
This is because the ailerons have 2 servos per surface and the speed is usually a bit more critical there (for example, in snap rolls).
ok thanx that's a pretty good idea do you think that's a super good choice ? or should I spend my money to another brand I have no idea how that servos work !
next question is gp. 123 oder / da 120 and with reso ( we have noice limits in my club and in Europe)
Not afraid by not putting bolts on screws to hold motor ?
Just thread in wood ????
Not safe !!!!
I use lock nuts (and washer) behind the wood. The threading on the wood is just a “nice to have” so that everything is tight
Shame you left EF
He never left extreme flight since he was never on it… he just started flying for pilot…
Hi, thanks for your cool videos and short but full of tip build videos, I've learned a lot from them, But I have another question, Is there any way to contact you, like instagram or telegram?
Thanks.
Hi, you can find me in Facebook facebook.com/juan.s.garcia.908?mibextid=LQQJ4d or email juansg.eng@gmail.com
@@skyboundrc Thanks🙏